Chapter 17

Jalapa.--A Health Resort.--Birds, Flowers, and Fruits.--Cerro Gordo.--Cathedral.--Earthquakes.--Local Characteristics.-- Vanilla.--Ancient Ruins.--Tortillas.--Blondes in a City of Brunettes.--Curiosities of Mexican Courtship.--Caged Singing Birds.--Banditti Outwitted.--Socialistic Indians.--Traces of a Lost City.--Guadalajara.--On the Mexican Plateau.--A Progressive Capital.--Fine Modern Buildings.--The Cathedral. --Native Artists.--A Noble Institution.--Amusements.--San Pedro.--Evening in the Plaza.--A Ludicrous Carnival.--Judas Day 320