CHAPTER XXXI.

JAFFA.

JAFFA, January 26, 1890.

Having spent two days in Jerusalem industriously sight-seeing, one noon-day I took a seat in the fine carriage provided, my only companion being a dragoman, and we were soon bowling along over the fine road to Jaffa.

The engineers are surveying for a railroad from Jaffa to Jerusalem and the people expect that it will be completed in a year. The journey may then be made in an hour. The moon came up at 6 P.M., and as we passed along the road through the mountains I saw sights and scenery not to be soon forgotten. I felt safe, for every few miles there was a stone watch-tower, occupied by guards, and often we met them on the road, mounted and armed with guns. It was a ride of thrilling interest, for over this route have passed many times the heroes of old, and on yonder field of Sharon, now smiling with flowers, was once fought a great battle. The carriage rushed on, and half-way we changed horses. Being very cold, I walked ahead for a couple of miles, meeting caravans and single camels, and numerous donkeys laden with wood, and men coming from the fields with their oxen and their ploughs. The black-eyed natives eyed me curiously, but said nothing, and soon the carriage overtook me, and I was so well warmed up by my walk that I felt comfortable for the remainder of the trip.

We were detained for two days at Jaffa on account of the rough sea, which prevented steamers from landing, but being in a comfortable hotel, I was content and spent the time looking about the ancient city.

A young Arab offered to sell me a tame hyena for twenty francs. It was nine months old, and as playful as a young dog. At last the sea became smooth, and I entered one of the heavy boats, and the three strong Turkish boatmen put me over the rough waters in good style on board the Russian steamer _Poccir_ from Alexandria bound for Odessa.