CHAPTER XXV.

ON BOARD "THE KHEDIVE."

STEAMER "KHEDIVE," RED SEA, NEAR SUEZ, February 10, 1890.

The morning of the 31st of January was very hot at Bombay, as usual, and I only went out to make a few calls, and some purchases, and at 3 P.M. we went on a tender to this steamer, passing two large English troop ships just arrived, and several ironclad men-of-war, and looked at the great forts on the land where we had before seen two 120-ton Armstrong guns with piles of conical balls, each ball weighing half a ton.

The harbor is large and fine, and there were at anchor many large steamers and sailing craft, but I did not see anywhere the flag of our country.

On Sunday there was the usual parade of officers, sailors, and servants, 149 in all, most of the sailors being Lascars, dressed in white gowns, red turbans, and sashes, presenting a clean and picturesque appearance.

The vessel is a fine one, wonderfully clean, and with all modern improvements, including electric lights.

The doctor is a young and handsome man, and spends most of his time with the young lady passengers, who seem to require much medical advice. I notice that on most of the ships where I have been the doctors are very attentive to the ladies.

One night I slept very soundly in the upper berth, but in the morning found my room flooded from the open port-holes, sofa, floor, and baggage wet, but no great harm done, my clothing being hung up. In the morning I knew the sailors were washing the deck, for the water leaked through and struck my face, but one learns not to mind such little matters when travelling, and I turned over for another sleep.

It is rather hot on the steamer, thermometer eighty degrees, but the punkas are going in the cabin, and we are all quite comfortable.

We came from Bombay on the steamer _Assam_, arrived at Aden on the 6th, and were transferred to this ship, and unfortunately there was not time for us to go ashore, but I think we lost nothing, as it was a poor-looking place, nothing but rocks and fortifications.

We now see for the first time the coast of Arabia, big hills evidently of volcanic formation, and long reaches of white sand. The native boats crowded around the ship, offering ostrich feathers and various things for sale; boys were diving for silver pieces thrown into the water, and generally succeeded in getting them.

The run of four days up the historic Red Sea has been full of interest. One day the air was full of locusts flying over from Arabia to Africa, many of them falling on the deck. They looked like small birds when flying, but were not larger than katydids, and brown in color.

On Sunday the service was read by a clergyman who preached an excellent sermon. He read from the Bible the account of the passage of the Red Sea at a place not far from where we were, and the sermon was about it and Egypt.

The seats at the long tables in the dining-room were filled, nearly all the passengers being in attendance. The weather continues perfect, the water smooth and looking very blue. Captain Loggin, of this ship, says that on his last trip he had a lady passenger who was ninety-one years of age, and on a former trip another who was ninety-two, both of them very jolly and comfortable, and going from England to visit their relatives in India.

The captain said that on another of his trips, two ladies, strangers to each other, were put in one state-room in which were two wash-basins. One basin being a little larger than the other, each lady wanted the larger one, and appealed to him. He gave the matter due consideration, and finally informed them that the elder should have it. As we approach the upper end of the sea it narrows to about three miles, and we have good views of both the Arabian and the African coasts, long stretches of sand on both shores, and then mountains of volcanic origin, but not a sign of a town or of any inhabitants. Early one morning the captain gave notice that we were nearing the Sinai range of mountains, and he showed on his chart all the points of interest, and directly pointed out the historic mountain itself, situated beyond a range which was near the sea, and looming up so that we could see it with the naked eye, and very clearly with the glass. The mountain appeared to be about forty miles off.