CHAPTER XXII

Statistical and Political 446

LIST OF PLATES

Ararat from Aralykh Frontispiece Trebizond from above the Head of the Western Ravine To face page 12 Trebizond: Hagia Sophia 24 Trebizond: Façade of Hagia Sophia on the South 25 Plain of the Rion from the Southern Slopes of Caucasus: Kutais in the Foreground 46 View North from the Zikar Pass Back to page 52 View South from the Zikar Pass 53 Safar: St. Saba from the West 62 Safar: Porch of St. Saba 63 Akhaltsykh from the Road to Akhalkalaki To face page 65 Castle of Khertvis 76 Vardzia, the Troglodyte City 80 Mount Abul from Akhalkalaki 92 Summer Pavilion at Gorelovka 109 Alagöz from the Plain of Alexandropol 122 Alexandropol from the Armenian Cemetery 125 Ararat from near Aramzalu 153 Great Ararat from above Sardar Bulakh 165 Our Kurd Porters on Ararat 167 Akhury: The Great Chasm from Aralykh 179 Akhury: Inside the Great Chasm 194 Erivan and Ararat from the North 208 Erivan: Interior of the Kiosque of the Sirdars 216 Edgmiatsin: The Great Court and the Cathedral 243 Edgmiatsin: Ceremony of the Consecration of the Katholikos--Anointing with Oil from the Beak of a Golden Dove 254 Edgmiatsin: Interior of the Cathedral 267 Edgmiatsin: Exterior of St. Ripsime 269 Edgmiatsin: Exterior of St. Gaiane 270 Edgmiatsin: Exterior of Shoghakath 271 Talin: Mouldings on South Side of Ruinous Church 322 Walls and Gateway of the City of Ani from Outside, looking East 369 Ani: The Cathedral from South-East 370 Ani: Niche in Eastern Wall of Cathedral 371 Ani: Apse of the Cathedral 372 Ani: Church of St. Gregory from the West 373 Ani: North Wall of the Church of St. Gregory 374 Ani: Detail of the Porch of St. Gregory 375 Ani: Mosque and Minaret 376 Ani: Detail of Doorway of Chapel near Citadel 379 Ani: Chapel of St. Gregory, East Side 380 Ani: Chapel of St. Gregory, Entrance 381 Ani: Interior of the Chapel of St. Gregory 382 Ani: Chapel of the Redeemer 383 Ani: Doorway of the Castle 384 Ani: Portal of the Church of the Apostles from the West 385 Ani: East Front of the Church of the Apostles 386 Khosha Vank: Pronaos 387 Khosha Vank: Exterior of Pronaos and Church from South-West 388 Khosha Vank: Hall of the Synod 389 Looking down the Valley of Kagyzman 417 A Rib or Buttress of Aghri Dagh 419 Pass over Aghri Dagh 420

ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT

Entrance to the Black Sea from the Bosphorus 3 Interior of Hagia Sophia 27 Banks of the Rion above Kutais 46 Road in the Forest 50 Georgians 51 Portrait of Ivan 59 Group of Villagers at Khertvis 77 Archimandrite and Deacon at Vardzia 82 Head Waters of the Arpa Chai 121 Byzantine Picture in Greek Church 128 Wedding Party at Alexandropol 130 Church of Marmashen from S.W. 131 Alagöz from the Head Waters of the Abaran 136 Ararat: Aralykh in the foreground 155 Our Cavalcade on Ararat 159 Our Encampment at Sardar Bulakh 163 Little Ararat from near Sardar Bulakh 164 Summit of Ararat from the South-East, taken at a height of about 13,000 feet 180 Boulders near Akhury 191 Ararat from a house-top in Erivan 207 Alagöz from a house-top in Erivan 208 Entrance to Gök Jami, Erivan 213 Court with basin of Gök Jami, Erivan 214 The Temple, Gök Jami 215 Pilgrims' Court, Edgmiatsin 230 The Katholikos Mekertich Khrimean 237 The Lake at Edgmiatsin 246 Ararat from the Lake at Edgmiatsin 247 Armenian Nun 252 Interior of the Portal of the Cathedral 266 Episcopal Staves 268 Sculptured Stone 271 Village of Talin, with Mount Bugutu 322 Mouldings on North Side of Ruinous Church at Talin 323 Tartar Khan at Talin } 324 Pristav of Talin } Priest of Talin 325 Tartar of Akhja Kala 326 Alagöz from the Plains on the West 327 Greek Girl of Subotan 331 Ani: Bas-relief on the Inner Wall of the Gateway 369 Ani: Sculptured Stone Moulding 373 Ani: Walled Enclosure and Chapel 376 Ani: Building on the Citadel 378 Ani: Pilaster in the Building on the Citadel 379 Ani: Landscape from the southern extremities of the site 380 Ani: The Castle 383 The Monastery of Khosha Vank: east side 386 Khosha Vank: Chapels in the Ravine of the Arpa Chai 387 The Citadel of Kars 406 Molokan Elder at Vladikars 411 House at Novo-Michaelovka 412 Aghri Dagh from the Araxes Cañon 414 Cliffs composing Northern Wall of Araxes Cañon 415 The Araxes near Kagyzman 416 Kara Vank on Aghri Dagh 419 Map of the Armenian Plateau 452

LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS

Plan of the Ancient Fortifications of Trebizond To face page 13 Trebizond and Surroundings 30 Plan of the Monastery and Churches of Edgmiatsin Between pages 244 and 245 Plan of the Deserted City of Ani To face page 390 Kars and Surroundings 395 The Structural Features of Asia Between pages 422 and 423 Map of Armenia and Adjacent Countries Cover