Category: Travel Writing

Armenia: A year at Erzeroom, and on the frontiers of Russia, Turkey, and Persia

The "Bad Black Sea."--Coal-field near the Bosporus.--Trebizond from the Sea.--Fish and Turkeys.--The Bazaars.--Coronas.--Ancient Tombs.--Church of St. Sofia.--Preservation of old Manners and Ceremonies.--Toilet of a Person of Distinction.--Russian Loss in 1828-9.--Ancient Pray...

Chapters

22. CHAPTER IV.

Narrow Escape from Suffocation.--Death of Noori Effendi.--A good Shot.--History of Mirza Tekee.--Persian Ideas of the Principles of Government.--The "Blood-drinker."--Massacre a...

23. CHAPTER V.

One of the most important of the affairs which were to be settled at Erzeroom was the geographical position of the boundaries between the two empires, for along the whole line t...

19. CHAPTER I.

The "Bad Black Sea."--Coal-field near the Bosporus.--Trebizond from the Sea.--Fish and Turkeys.--The Bazaars.--Coronas.--Ancient Tombs.--Church of St. Sofia.--Preservation of ol...

32. CHAPTER XIV.

Impassable Character of the Country.--Dependence of Persia on the Czar.--Russian Aggrandizement.--Delays of the Western Powers.--Russian Acquisitions from Turkey and Persia.--Op...

21. CHAPTER III.

We were hospitably entertained at the British Consulate till the Pasha could get a house prepared for us to occupy during our stay; but, as Mr. Pepys says, "Lord, to see!" what...

33. CHAPTER XV.

Ecclesiastical History.--Supposed Letter of Abgarus, King of Edessa, to our Savior, and the Answer.--Promulgation and Establishment of Christianity.--Labors of Mesrob Maschdots....

26. CHAPTER VIII.

The Prophet of Khoi.--Climate.--Effects of great Elevation above the Sea.--The Genus Homo.--African Gold-diggings.--Sale of a Family.--Site of Paradise.--Tradition of Khosref Pu...

31. CHAPTER XIII.

Former History of Trebizond.--Ravages of the Goths.--Their Siege and Capture of the City.--Dynasties of Courtenai and the Comneni.--The "Emperor" David.--Conquest of Trebizond b...

30. CHAPTER XII.

On the 27th of December, all preparations being completed, I started on my journey over the mountains to Trebizond. Kiamili Pasha had prepared an order to all and sundry, great...

20. CHAPTER II.

Departure from Trebizond.--A rough Road.--Turkish Pack-horses.--Value of Tea.--The Pipe in the East.--Mountain Riding.--Instinct of the Horse.--A Caravan overwhelmed by an Avala...

36. CHAPTER XVIII.

General History of Armenia.--Former Sovereigns.--Tiridates I. receives his Crown from Nero.--Conquest of the Country by the Persians and by the Arabs.--List of modern Kings.--Mi...

28. CHAPTER X.

Birds.--Great Variety and vast Numbers of Birds.--Flocks of Geese.--Employment for the Sportsman.--The Captive Crane.--Wild and tame Geese.--The pious and profane Ancestors.--Li...

29. CHAPTER XI.

Excursion to the Lake of Tortoom.--Romantic Bridge.--Gloomy Effect of the Lake.--Singular Boat.--"Evaporation" of a Pistol.--Kiamili Pasha.--Extraordinary Marksman.--Alarming Il...

27. CHAPTER IX.

Of four-footed beasts, the most illustrious is the bear, of which there are a good many in the wooded sides of the mountains in the neighborhood of Kars. Near the strange, unear...

24. CHAPTER VI.

In the citadel--a place which might, with great ease, be rendered very strong, but which now is deserted and disused, having, I believe, been knocked to pieces in the Russian wa...

25. CHAPTER VII.

When the snows of winter have melted, and the air becomes more temperate, the population of Erzeroom begin to revive. The women and children, who, like the bears, lemmings, and...

35. CHAPTER XVII.

Armenian manuscripts are of extreme rarity, not only in Europe, but in Armenia itself, at Constantinople, or any other place. The unsettled state in which that distracted provin...

34. CHAPTER XVI.

The country which was called Armenia in ancient times is now divided into two portions; the smaller of the two belongs to Persia, but the larger part is contained in the Turkish...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

General History of Armenia.--Former Sovereigns.--Tiridates I. receives his Crown from Nero.--Conquest of the Country by the Persians and by the Arabs.--List of modern Kings.--Mi...

15. CHAPTER XV.

Ecclesiastical History.--Supposed Letter of Abgarus, King of Edessa, to our Savior, and the Answer.--Promulgation and Establishment of Christianity.--Labors of Mesrob Maschdots....

1. CHAPTER I.

The "Bad Black Sea."--Coal-field near the Bosporus.--Trebizond from the Sea.--Fish and Turkeys.--The Bazaars.--Coronas.--Ancient Tombs.--Church of St. Sofia.--Preservation of ol...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

The Prophet of Khoi.--Climate.--Effects of great Elevation above the Sea.--The Genus Homo.--African Gold-diggings.--Sale of a Family.--Site of Paradise.--Tradition of Khosref Pu...

4. CHAPTER IV.

Narrow Escape from Suffocation.--Death of Noori Effendi.--A good Shot.--History of Mirza Tekee.--Persian Ideas of the Principles of Government.--The "Blood-drinker."--Massacre a...

14. CHAPTER XIV.

Impassable Character of the Country.--Dependence of Persia on the Czar.--Russian Aggrandizement.--Delays of the Western Powers.--Russian Acquisitions from Turkey and Persia.--Op...

2. CHAPTER II.

Departure from Trebizond.--A rough Road.--Turkish Pack-horses.--Value of Tea.--The Pipe in the East.--Mountain Riding.--Instinct of the Horse.--A Caravan overwhelmed by an Avala...

11. CHAPTER XI.

Excursion to the Lake of Tortoom.--Romantic Bridge.--Gloomy Effect of the Lake.--Singular Boat.--"Evaporation" of a Pistol.--Kiamili Pasha.--Extraordinary Marksman.--Alarming Il...

10. CHAPTER X.

Birds.--Great Variety and vast Numbers of Birds.--Flocks of Geese.--Employment for the Sportsman.--The Captive Crane.--Wild and tame Geese.--The pious and profane Ancestors.--Li...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

Former History of Trebizond.--Ravages of the Goths.--Their Siege and Capture of the City.--Dynasties of Courtenai and the Comneni.--The "Emperor" David.--Conquest of Trebizond b...

5. CHAPTER V.

The Boundary Question.--Koordish Chiefs.--Torture of Artin, an American Christian.--Improved State of Society in Turkey.--Execution of a Koord.--Power of Fatalism.--Gratitude of...

3. CHAPTER III.

9. CHAPTER IX.

6. CHAPTER VI.

12. CHAPTER XII.

17. CHAPTER XVII.

7. CHAPTER VII.

16. CHAPTER XVI.