Part 1

PRICE 15 Cts.

ARCHERY RULES

C. F. A. HINRICHS, _No. 29 to 33 Park Place_, NEW YORK.

Archery.

It is scarcely needful to say anything in praise of Archery. It holds its place as the first of English sports, and is rapidly becoming popular in America. It trains the eye, imparts a good and graceful carriage, expands the chest, and gives plenty of walking exercise without fatigue; moreover, it is equally adapted for both sexes.

THE EQUIPMENT OF THE ARCHER.

The first thing we have to consider is what constitutes the necessary outfit for an archer--how it should be chosen, and how taken care of. Before choosing his outfit, the archer should find a good maker, and obtain from him a list of prices; having done so, he will be able to determine what expense he is willing to go to, and then to apply the following hints in choosing his apparatus. Let us, however, entreat him not to sacrifice all his hopes of future success to a desire to get cheap things; let him rely upon it that things obtained at a fair cost from a good maker are twice as cheap as those whose only recommendation is their low price.

The following list will show _about_ what is a fair price, and may be a guide to our readers in future selections.

EQUIPMENTS FOR LADIES.

Fine Backed Bows, 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 ft., $4.50 to 6.00 each.

Lemon Wood Bows, 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 ft., $4.00 to $5.00 each.

Lance Wood Bows, 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 ft. (to weight), $2.75 to $4.00 each.

Lance Wood Bows 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 ft. (ordinary), 75c. to $2.25 each.

Practising Arrows, 25 inch, $1.50 to $3.50 per doz.

Finest French Arrows, 25 inch, (we can highly recommend this kind), $3.50 to $5.00 per doz.

Old Deal Arrows, 25 inch, $5.50 to $7.00 per doz.

Best Footed Arrows, 25 inch, $8.50 to $11.00 per doz.

Best Flemish Bow-Strings, 25c. to 50c. each.

Quivers, $1.50 to $2.75 each.

Arm Guards, $1.25 to $2.00 each.

Shooting Glove, 63c. to $1.50 each.

Tips for Bows, 50c. per pair.

Tassel 50c. to 75c. each.

Targets, $1.00 to $7.00 each.

Target Stands, $2.50 to $5.00 each.

Bow Covers (green baize), 75c. each.

Scoring Cards and Tablets, Ivory and Ebony Prickers, &c., 25c. to $2.00 each.

EQUIPMENTS FOR GENTLEMEN.

Fine Backed Bows, 6 ft., $9.00 to 12.00 each.

Lemon Wood Bows, 6 ft., $5.00 to $6.00 each.

Lance Wood Bows, 6 ft. (to weight), $4.00 to $5.00 each.

Lance Wood Bows, 6 ft. (ordinary), $1.50 to $2.50 each.

Practising Arrows, 28 inch, $2.00 to $4.00 per doz.

Finest French Arrows, 28 inch, (we can highly recommend this kind), $5.00 to $6.00 per doz.

Old Deal Arrows, 28 inch, $6.00 to $7.50 per doz.

Best Footed Arrows, 28 inch, $9.00 to $12.00 per doz.

Best Flemish Bow-Strings, 25c. to 50c. each.

Quivers, $2.50 to $3.50 each.

Arm Guards, $1.00 to $2.00 each.

Shooting Glove, 75c. to $2.00 each.

Tips for Bows, 75c. per pair.

Tassel, 50c. to 75c. each.

Targets, $1.00 to $7.00 each.

Target Stands, $2.50 to $5.00 each.

Bow Covers (green baize), 75c. each.

Scoring Cards and Tablets, Ivory and Ebony Prickers, &c., from 25c. to $2.00 each.

NOTE.--Backed Bows are far superior to the Self ones as regards elasticity and durability.

THE BOW.

Bows are of two kinds. The _self_ bow consists either of one piece of wood or of two dovetailed together at the handle, in which latter case it is called a _grafted_ bow; by far the best material for a self bow is yew, although a variety of other woods, such as lemonwood, lancewood, &c., are used. As it is but very rarely that we are able to obtain a piece of yew long enough for a bow of equal quality throughout, the grafted bow was invented, in order that the two limbs, being formed by splitting one piece of wood into two strips, may be of exactly the same nature.

The _backed_ bow consists of two or more strips of wood glued together longitudinally and compressed so as to ensure perfect union. The strips may be of the same or of different woods--for instance, of yew backed with yew, yew with hickory, lancewood, &c.; but of all backed bows snakewood backed with hickory is far the best. It has been a great subject of controversy whether the self or the backed bow be the best for shooting purposes; we most unhesitatingly decide in favor of the backed.

HOW TO CHOOSE IT.

In purchasing a bow, it is always better to go to a good maker; the inferior makers, although they may sell their goods a trifle cheaper, are still not to be depended upon, and as a good deal concerning a bow has to be taken upon trust--_e.g._, whether the wood is properly seasoned, horns firmly fastened, &c.--a maker who has a reputation to lose always proves the cheapest in the end. Having selected a maker and determined on the price you are willing to give, you will proceed to see that the bow tapers gradually from the handle to horns; that the wood is of straight, even grain, running longitudinally and free from knots and pins, or that, if there are any pins, they are rendered innocuous by having the wood left raised around them. The bow should be quite straight, or even follow the string (bend in the direction it will take when strung) a little. Beware of a bow which bends away from the string; it will jar your arms out of their sockets, and should the string break, there will be an end of it. See that both limbs are of equal strength, in which case they will describe equal curves. The handle should not be quite in the middle of the bow, but the upper edge of it should be about an inch above the centre. See that there are no sharp edges to the nocks on the horns of the bow, for if they are not properly rounded off they will be continually cutting your string. Lastly, make sure that your bow is not beyond your strength--in other words, that you are not overbowed. It is a very common thing for persons to choose very strong bows under the idea that it gives them the appearance of being perfect Samsons; but their ungainly struggles to bend their weapon, and the utterly futile results of their endeavors, are, we think, anything but dignified. The weight of the bow should be such that it can be bent without straining, and held steadily during the time of taking aim. The strength of bows is calculated by their _weight_, which is stamped in pounds upon them, and which denotes the power which it takes to bend the bow until the centre of the string is a certain distance (twenty-eight inches for a gentleman's, twenty-five inches for a lady's bow) from the handle. It is ascertained by suspending the bow by the handle from a steelyard whilst the string is drawn the required distance. Gentlemen's bows generally range from 48 lbs. to 56 lbs., and ladies' from 20 lbs. to 32 lbs.

HOW TO PRESERVE IT.

Many things will spoil a bow which a little care and attention would prevent. Amongst the most fatal enemies to the bow are chrysals (see Glossary), which, unless noticed in time, will surely end in a fracture. A chrysal should at once be tightly lapped with fine string saturated with glue; this, if neatly done and then varnished, will interfere but little with the appearance of the bow. Care should be taken not to scratch or bruise the bow. When shooting in damp weather, the bow, especially if a backed one, should be kept well wiped, and perfectly dried with a waxed cloth before putting away. A backed bow is always the better for a little lapping round each end just by the horn, which prevents the bow from breaking if by any chance the glue is softened by damp. A bow should always be kept as dry as possible; when going to shoot at a distance, a waterproof cover is advisable. Do not unstring the bow too often while shooting; once in every six double ends is quite enough, unless there are many shooters.

THE ARROW.

Arrows are distinguished by weight in the same manner as bows, only in the former it is calculated as weighed against silver money, and arrows are known as of so many shillings weight, &c. The lengths and weights recommended by the best authorities are as follows:

_Length._ _Weight._

For ladies. 25 in. 2s. 3d. 3s. 3d.

{ Bows of 50 lbs. } { and upwards, and } 28 in. 4 6 to 5 6 { 6 feet long. } For gentlemen.{ } { Bows under 50 lbs. } { and not exceeding } 28 in. 3 6 to 4 6 { 5 ft. 10 in. long. }

There are two kinds of arrows--_self_, made of one piece of wood, and _footed_, having a piece of hard wood at the pile end. The latter are the best for several reasons, one being that they are not so likely to break if they strike anything hard. The best material for arrows is red deal footed with lancewood.

HOW TO CHOOSE IT.

The first thing to ascertain is whether it is quite straight, which is done by bringing the tips of the thumb and two first fingers of the left hand together and laying the arrow thereon, while it is turned round by the right hand. If it goes smoothly, it is straight; but if it jerks at all it is crooked. Then make sure that it is stiff enough to stand the force of the bow without bending, as, if too weak, it will never fly straight. The pile or point should be what is called the square-shouldered pile; some prefer the sharp pile, but the other answers best for all purposes. The nock should be full and the notch pretty deep; a piece of horn should be let in at the notch to prevent the string splitting the arrow. The feathers should be full-sized, evenly and well cut, and inserted at equal distances from each other, as shown in the plate. It has been much disputed whether the Bobtailed, the Chested, the Barrelled, or the Straight arrow is the best to shoot with (see Glossary). Horace Ford, the champion shot, decides in favor of the straight arrow, and our readers cannot do better than take his advice. The arrow should be carefully wiped each time it is picked up, and this not only to preserve it, but also because the least particle of dirt clinging to the pile will effectually spoil the flight of the arrow. Every care should be taken to keep the feathers smooth and stiff; if attention be not paid to this point everything else will be in vain. Should they by chance become ruffled, a little warming in front of a fire (not too close) will generally restore them.

THE BOW-STRING.

The best bow-strings are of foreign manufacture, and are generally sold complete; but in case any of our readers wish to fit their own, we will say a few words about them. The string should be not too thin, or it will not last long; in the selection of it, it is best to be guided by the size of the notch of your arrows. At one end of it a strong loop should be worked to go over the upper horn, the other end should be left free in order to be fixed on to the lower horn. When the lower end is fastened, the distance between it and the loop at the other end should be such, that when the loop is in its place (_i.e._, the bow strung) the string is, in a gentleman's bow, six inches, in a lady's, five inches, from the centre of the bow. Never trust a worn string; take it off and put on a new one--should it break, it will most probably snap your bow.

THE BELT AND POUCH.

This is used for carrying the supply of arrows required in a match (three for use and one spare one), as also for hanging the tassel, &c., to. We would, however, recommend our gentlemen friends to do without it--it is always in the way, and the arrow can be carried far better in a pocket made diagonally in the right rear of the coat, so as to come conveniently to the hand, and yet be far enough back to escape the risk of the feathers being spoilt by the elbow rubbing against them. In our cut we have depicted a lady's belt.

GREASE-BOX.

This is a little box, generally made of ivory, of such a shape as to hang from the belt. It is used for the purpose of holding the grease, which some archers use to anoint the string and their shooting-glove with, so as to get a better loose. The advantage of it is a matter of opinion, and so it may remain; if used too freely, however, it causes the bow-string to unravel.

TASSEL.

This is merely a large tassel of green worsted, and is used for wiping the arrows when they have stuck in the ground. If a belt is not used, it should be hung from a button-hole of the coat; it is an absolutely necessary part of the archer's outfit,

ARM GUARD.

This is a guard for the left arm, to prevent its being abraded by the string when loosed; it also has another object, viz., to confine the sleeve and keep it out of the way. It consists of an oblong piece of smooth leather, and is fastened to the arm by straps. In fitting it on, care should be taken that the ends of the straps are not left loose, and that the buckles come well round to the back of the arm, so as not to be in the way of the string; for if there be the least projection on which it can catch, your best aim will be of no effect.

THE SHOOTING-GLOVE.

Is used to protect the fingers of the right hand from abrasion by the string when loosing, and consists of three finger-guards, attached by strips of leather, passing down the back of the hand to a strap fastening round the wrist. This form of glove has, however, rather gone out of use of late years, most archers preferring independent guards, called tips, for each finger, generally fastening by means of an India-rubber ring round the finger, about the best of this kind being those invented by Mr. Buchanan, of Piccadilly. In the matter of the shooting-glove, however, it is best to leave the archer to choose for himself, merely cautioning him to make sure that, whether gloves or tips, they fit him well, or he will never be able to make a good loose. The cut represents a glove.

SCORING-CARDS.

These are made of various shapes and sizes, to accommodate a single archer or to serve for a match. About the best for private use consists of a circular piece of cardboard colored like a target, divided into three segments for three distances, and having the other side printed to receive the score when reckoned. These are carried in little ivory frames for the purpose, the whole being about the size of a watch. A small ivory pricker for marking is carried with it. Perhaps, however, for ordinary practice, nothing is better than a common metallic memorandum-book, ruled for the day of the month, and vertically for the rings.

THE QUIVER.

The quiver is a tin case somewhat in the shape of the quiver usually represented as forming part of the equipment of Robin Hood and his band; it is not now, however, used as part of the personal equipment of the archer, but is employed simply for the purpose of protecting the spare arrows. It is made of all sizes, to hold from six to three dozen arrows, and is provided with a cover and lock to make all secure. The best receptacle for arrows, however, is the box which is now almost universally used; in it each arrow has a place to itself, and by this means overcrowding is prevented and the feathers preserved unrumpled.

TARGETS.

A target is made of straw, bound with string into an even rope, which is twisted upon itself until it forms a flat disc, and then covered on one side with canvas painted in five concentric rings, viz. gold or centre red, blue or inner white, black, and white. These rings should be all of exactly the same width, the target itself being one to four feet in diameter. In scoring, the following value is given to the rings;

Gold 9 Red 7 Blue 5 Black 3 White 1

When an arrow strikes on the edge of two rings, the higher is counted, unless it is otherwise agreed upon. It is necessary to have two targets, one at each extremity of the distance fixed upon--as it is not usual to shoot more than _three_ arrows at each "end," as it is called--walking over between each three to reclaim your arrows, and then shooting them at the back target you have just left. By this means a different set of muscles are called into play, those used in shooting are relaxed, and, in addition, a great deal is added to the exercise which renders archery so healthy a pastime; for example, in shooting the national round, the archer walks 3,920 yards, or nearly two miles and a quarter, between the ends. The stands for the targets are usually made of iron and wood, and somewhat resemble in shape an artist's easel. The legs should be padded or wrapped round with straw, otherwise arrows striking them will be apt to break. There has been, however, invented an iron stand for targets, so constructed that the legs present a very thin edge to the shooter, thus reducing the chance of their being struck by an arrow to the minimum. In some places butts are erected, instead of stands, for the targets: they are built of sods piled together, the Target being hung to a peg in the front of them. The target used differs from the ordinary one, and consists of a circular piece of white pasteboard, the size differing according to the length of range: _e.g._, at thirty yards it is four inches: sixty yards, eight inches; ninety yards, twelve inches in diameter, and so on, according to distance. Butts certainly abolish the trouble of stooping, as they catch all the arrows (except the very wide or high ones) which miss the target. The chief disadvantage of them is that after shooting at a butt it takes some time to get used to the target on a stand, so that it spoils an archer for matches, etc. Another advantage of butts is this, that as the targets are merely made of cardboard, they can be easily manufactured at home. In all cases, whether butts or stands are employed, the centre of the gold should be four feet from the ground.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE FIELD.

Having procured his outfit, the archer will doubtless be anxious to make a trial of it in the field, and we will now endeavor to give him the clearest instructions for the management of his weapon, by attention to which, and constant practice, we hope he will succeed to his utmost satisfaction. It will be useless for him to overburden himself with accessories more than are absolutely necessary--they will only be in the way; an archer who wishes to shoot well will find that the less he has about him the better. Besides his bow, he will take four arrows (three for use and one spare one in case of accident), which he will put into his pouch or pocket, arm-guard, glove or tips, tassel, and scoring-card. A spare string also it will be prudent to have in the pocket. Anything more than these is unnecessary in the field.

STRINGING THE BOW.--In stringing the bow it is held by the handle in the right hand (flat part towards the body) with the lower horn resting on the ground against the hollow of the right foot. The left hand is then placed upon the upper part of the bow in such a manner that the base of the thumb rests upon the flat side of it, the thumb pointing upwards. The bow is then bent by the combined action of the two hands, the right pulling, the left pressing it; at the same time the loop of the string is slipped into its place by the left thumb and forefinger. However, actual experiment under the guidance of a proficient will teach them sooner and better than we can possibly hope to do by mere precept. When the bow is braced, the string should be exactly six inches from the centre of the bow in a gentleman's, and five inches and a half in a lady's bow. Care must be taken that the string lies evenly along the exact centre of the bow, that it is not turned on one side at either horn. If this be the case, it will, by pulling the bow unevenly, in all probability break it.

POSITION.--It is difficult to determine exactly what is the _best_ position for the archer. Every one naturally subsides into that which is most easy to him; still there are certain fundamental rules, which are given in almost every book on archery, by attention to which in the first place the shooter ultimately falls into the best position for himself. The left foot should point rather to the right of the mark, the right foot being nearly at right angles to it, the heels six or eight inches apart, in a straight line from target to target, both feet flat on the ground, knees straight, body erect but not too stiff, face turned towards the mark. The body must be carried as easily as possible on the hips, not too stiffly upright nor yet bending forward. Nothing looks worse than a stiff, constrained attitude, except a loose, slouching one. Our cut on back of last cover represents an archer taking aim.

NOCKING.--Having mastered the position, the next thing to be looked to is the _nocking_. "The bow being held by the handle in the left hand, let the arrow be placed with the right (_over_ the string, not _under_) on that part of the bow upon which it is to lie; the thumb of the left hand being then gently placed over it, will serve to hold it perfectly under command, and the forefinger and thumb of the right hand can then take hold of the nock end of the arrow and manipulate it with the most perfect ease in any manner that may be required." When the arrow is nocked it should be at right angles with the string. Some archers are accustomed to try to alter the range of the arrow by heightening or lowering the nocking point, but this is a great mistake.