Category: Travel Writing

Arab and Druze at home

A landscape of lava--Deserted cities--Caverns--Cultivation--A land of ruins--The guide’s terror--_Damet el-ʿAliâ_--The sheikh’s welcome--A state of siege--An ugly incident--Druze hospitality-- Arab and Druze in _el-Lejâʾ_--St. Paul in Arabia--The well of the priest--Story of t...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

2. CHAPTER II

3. CHAPTER III

A landscape of lava--Deserted cities--Caverns--Cultivation--A land of ruins--The guide’s terror--_Damet el-ʿAliâ_--The sheikh’s welcome--A state of siege--An ugly incident--Druz...

4. CHAPTER IV

5. CHAPTER V

6. CHAPTER VI

7. CHAPTER VII

8. CHAPTER VIII

9. CHAPTER IX

Travellers’ troubles--A corner of the desert--The mirage-- Dangerous _wadies_--Lunch in the desert--A “blind” guide--The clerk to the _sheyûkh_--A milestone--_Kalʿat Esdein_--Th...

10. CHAPTER X

Morning on the mountains--Arab time--Tents and encampments--The women and their work--Arab wealth--Scenes at the wells--Dogs-- Arabian hospitality--Desert pests--Strange code of...

11. CHAPTER XI

12. CHAPTER XII

“Time is money”--_Rumamain_--Priestly hospitality--Fair mountain groves--Es-Salt--The springs--Relation to Arabs--Raisins-- Descent to the Jordan--Distant view of Jerusalem--Vie...

13. CHAPTER XIII

The banks and thickets of the Jordan--Bathing-place--The Greek convent--A night of adventures in the plains of Jericho--The modern village--Ancient fertility--Possible restorati...

14. CHAPTER I

THERE is a pleasant excitement in the prospect of a journey through long-forgotten lands, where hoary age is written on dark ruin and carved stone, which lends its influence to...

15. CHAPTER II

ONE trait in Arab character must appear to strangers peculiar--the general unwillingness to say anything to a man’s face which may be unpleasant. Truth may be stretched far beyo...

16. CHAPTER III

A landscape of lava--Deserted cities--Caverns--Cultivation--A land of ruins--The guide’s terror--_Damet el-ʿAliâ_--The sheikh’s welcome--A state of siege--An ugly incident--Druz...

17. CHAPTER IV

THE lust for treasure, which almost proved fatal to the priest, is common among all these semi-barbarous people. They are firmly persuaded that among the black ruins everywhere...

18. CHAPTER V

WE left the city by the southern, the only double gate the city boasted, as it is still the best preserved. Here also the city wall is seen in something like its original propor...

19. CHAPTER VI

HERE, as at every point touched in our journey, we had ample evidence of the prevalence of sickness and suffering, and of the crying necessity for competent medical aid. The wea...

20. CHAPTER VII

THE Druzes are generally known by a name which is not of their own choosing, nor, indeed, is it at all to their liking. “Druze” seems to connect them with Durazy, any close rela...

21. CHAPTER VIII

A DRUZE peasant who accompanied us part of the way from _ʿIry_ to _Bozrah_ professed to know the country well throughout a wide area, and declared that he could conduct us to a...

22. CHAPTER IX

LONG before dawn on Monday morning all was bustle and stir in the camp. We hoped to reach _Jerash_ that evening, but the most conflicting accounts were given of the distance, va...

23. CHAPTER X

Morning on the mountains--Arab time--Tents and encampments--The Women and their work--Arab wealth--Scenes at the wells--Dogs--Arabian hospitality--Desert pests--Strange code of...

24. CHAPTER XI

OUR _Bozrah_ guide was first in the saddle, and, starting out along the valley, he led the way towards _Jerash_; from this point, however, his office was a sinecure, the road be...

25. CHAPTER XII

“Time is money”--_Rumamain_--Priestly hospitality--Fair mountain groves--Es-Salt--The springs--Relation to Arabs--Raisins--Descent to the Jordan--Distant view of Jerusalem--View...

26. CHAPTER XIII

THE Jordan, in the lower reaches, is shaded by overhanging willows, and the path along the bank is lined with tall oleanders. In the brushwood, which grows thickly over the litt...