CHAPTER XXII.

Early rising and "Jamie Thomson"--Journey to English Harbour-- Windmills and Don Quixote--Groups of negroes and their equipages--All Saints' chapel of ease--The "Hamlet"--Village of Liberta--Grace Hill--Patterson's and Prince William--English Harbour market--Streets and dwellings--Commissariat's store and government tank--Dockyard--The superintendent--Stores and storehouses--Engineer's workshop--Blacksmith's shop and blowing machine--Limes and roses--Recollections of England--Lieutenant Peterson and Lord Camelford--His lordship's pranks--The ordnance--Clarence House and Dows Hill--The Ridge and "Shirley heights"--Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley--Bats Cave--The Savannah and its tombs--Indian Creek--Return to town.

The church clock proclaimed the hour of five, as a gentle rap came at my chamber door. Awakened from a pleasant dream, I started from my couch, and heard with something like vexation, that it was time to dress, in order to prosecute our intended journey to English Harbour.

Beautiful as is the breath of "early morn," still there is something very disagreeable in leaving your comfortable bed, and it may be, your gorgeous dreams, for the dull realities of life, and the necessary, but irksome duties of the toilet. I know I shall be cried down by all lovers of Nature for my unsentimental remarks. Thomson, enraptured with his subject "of early rising," exclaims with all a poet's fervour--

Falsely luxurious, will not man awake, And, springing from the bed of sloth, enjoy The cool, the fragrant, and the silent hour, To meditation due and sacred song? For is there aught in sleep can charm the wise? To lie in dead oblivion, losing half The fleeting moments of too short a life-- Total extinction of th' enlighten'd soul! Or else to feverish vanity alive, Wilder'd, and tossing through distemper'd dreams, Who would in such a gloomy state remain Longer than nature craves--when every muse And every blooming pleasure wait without, To bless the wildly devious morning walk."

Now, all this sounds very pretty--very romantic indeed; and we begin to fancy the poet amid some "bosky dell," or upland lawn, his shoes liberally bedewed with those glittering gems, which "hang in every cowslip's bell," and his unpowdered locks streaming behind him in the morning gale. But stay, gentle reader! hast thou not heard that Thomson was himself a very sluggard, and loved his warm bed far better than any sylvan scene he could so well describe? And in truth, many and many a poet, even to "Joanna Bailey," the morning rhymester, has been of the same mind. Then, why should I not tell the truth, and own my sloth--although at the same time, when once abroad, no one feels the nameless "melodies of morn" more than I do.

But to resume my subject: the incidents of a day's journey to English Harbour. After partaking of a light breakfast, and quaffing of that cup "which cheers, but not inebriates," we stepped into the phaeton, and drove through the town, leaving our friends in "Scotch-row" busily employed in arranging their incongruous goods to the best advantage.

The day was very favourable to our undertaking, for it was fine, but overcast. The sun was robbed of his extreme lustre by the intervention of various clouds, which passed along the sky in many beautiful forms. Some dark as ebon night; others of a silverish grey; the eastern ones tinged with gold and purple; while some again looked so white and fleecy, that you could fancy them so many snow-wreaths spread out upon an ocean of blue. The lights and shadows, too, of the far mountains, with all their blended tints, were beautiful objects in the landscape; and the occasional sight of a herd or two of cattle, standing in their usual dreamy posture, completed the picture. We passed several windmills (used in grinding the sugar-cane) with their sails unfurled, and going round merrily in the breeze; but unlike Don Quixote, I took them not for so many giants, nor wished myself a knight-errant, that I might rescue the "beautiful and high-born damsels" from their clutches.

The road to English Harbour is, however, for the most part dull and uninteresting; only here and there a pretty prospect attracts the eye. But on this day (Monday[84]) it was rendered more cheerful by the groups of negroes, who, of every age and sex, were coming into town to purchase their weekly stores. Baskets, trays, and boxes--all kinds of vessels, indeed--were placed in critical positions upon their heads; but this appeared to cause no impediment to their ambling gait, while the chatter and song among themselves, and the smile and courtesy as they passed us, with the accustomed "How d'ye, massa?" "How d'ye, missis?" shewed that they considered their errand as one of pleasure rather than of toil. Carts were also put into requisition by the more extensive purchasers; some drawn by a ragged Canadian pony, similar to the little Sheltie breed; others by a tall grim-looking American horse, with its bones sticking out as bare as "Rozinante's;" and others again dragged along by a slight-made Creole, its mane and tail the colour of flax. Cattle carts were also bringing in loads of sugar, drawn by six miserable-looking oxen two abreast, their poor necks weighed down by the heavy wooden yokes.

In one part of the road we passed All Saints' chapel of ease, belonging to the parish of St. John's. It is a very plain building, surmounted by a gothic pinnacle, answering the purpose of a steeple, with an aperture in the middle, intended, I suppose, for the admission of a bell.

After passing a ruined estate, where the long grass grew upon the walls of a roofless building, once used as a boiling house, and accomplishing a steep descent, and one or two abrupt turnings in the road, we came to a cluster of houses, known by the title of "the hamlet." Many of these rural dwellings are very neatly built of native stone; and their little gardens appear to be well stocked with the country produce, such as potatoes, peas, eddoes, arrowroot, &c. A short distance from the hamlet is another similar collection of dwellings, bearing the name of "the village of Liberta," (as a painted board informed us,) and equally abundant in its bright green patches of edibles. The emancipation of the negroes, and their desire to possess a portion of the soil in perpetuity, gave rise to these villages, of which there are many in different parts of the island. Here they erect small houses, and plant ground provisions. Some of these little dwellings are very neatly constructed, being raised a little distance from the ground, and the front door graced with a flight of steps and a small portico, while the open windows are furnished with white curtains.

Adjoining the "village of Liberta," lies the Moravian settlement of Grace Hill, snugly ensconced in its leafy fence, and, like other settlements of the kind in this island, breathing an air of happy tranquillity.

Leaving Grace Hill, and travelling on some distance, we arrived at an estate called Patterson's, belonging to the Hon. John Athill, and celebrated in Antiguan history, as being the spot where the murder of the governor's child was perpetrated, (already narrated in the legend of Ding a Ding Nook,) on the occasion of the abduction of his lady in 1640. The "great house" upon this estate was honoured by a visit from our late lamented monarch, William IV., who in 1798 passed a night there.

We here once again came within sight of the sea, which greatly added to the attractions of the scene, while on our left hand rose Monk's Hill, surmounted by its fortifications, and strewed in some parts with ruined Carib's houses. Passing through the town of Falmouth, we gained a kind of marsh, dotted over with clumps of aquatic shrubs, and here and there opening to the sea, and in a few moments entered the village of "English Harbour." The market is just at its entrance, and consisted, upon the day we visited it, of about ten or twelve persons, squatting on the ground, and having before them shallow wooden trays, containing a few country vegetables, a miserable-looking chicken or two, a few strings of strong-scented fish, a store of sun-burnt bread, and other similar luxuries!

The houses are in general of very mean construction, and destitute of paint. There are, however, some very pleasant residences belonging to the crown, from which beautiful sea-views may be obtained; for the village is built along the margin of the sea, and in some parts the waves come rippling up to the very street, and wet the feet of the passengers. Dogs and ducks were enjoying themselves in the water,--the former dashing in and out, and rolling in the sand, while the latter, with their eyes almost closed, were resting upon their glassy couch, in all the luxury of idleness.

Before entering the dockyard, we passed the commissariat stores; and on the opposite side of the road, a large tank, capable of containing 240 tons of water, built by the legislature for the use of the shipping, but from which the inhabitants of the village are allowed to draw water, the dockyard being so well supplied with those necessary reservoirs. This tank bears many a sculptured name; among the rest, that of "Nelson," that laurel-crowned hero, who visited Antigua in 1784.[85]

A pair of strong, well-secured gates guard the entrance to the dockyard; which being thrown open, we drove in, and alighted at the office of the superintendant of the establishment, preparatory to inspecting the accommodations of the place.

The dockyard consists of two separate departments. The first, since entitled St. Helena, was commenced in 1726, during the administration of John Hart, Esq., and at the suggestion of Capt. Francis Cooper, commander of H. M. S. "Lynn," and Capt. Arthur Del Garno, commander of H. M. S. "South Sea Castle." These experienced and clever naval officers saw the advantage of having proper wharfs, &c. for careening ships in Antigua, instead of being obliged to despatch the vessels appointed to this station, to the northern colonies, when any repairs were necessary, as they had before been in the practice of doing. The land chosen, as being most applicable to the purpose, consisted of two portions, of ten acres each, which in 1718 had been granted to Joseph Green, and William Greatrix, privates in H.M. troops, disbanded in consequence of the cessation of war. These lands were, however, forfeited to the crown by the non-settlement of them, by the grantees; and they were consequently appropriated to the purpose of establishing a dockyard, which is now not to be equalled in this part of the globe.

This establishment having proved of such advantage to Antigua, and the rest of the Leeward Islands, his majesty, George II., ordered that another wharf, with magazines, stores, and other appendages, should be constructed. Accordingly, in 1743, a tract of land was purchased from Thomas Bodkin; five acres of which was to be appropriated for the site of the new naval buildings; and the remainder to be allotted to poor white settlers, at the discretion of the commander-in-chief, the council, and assembly of Antigua. Such was the origin of the village of English Harbour, which, on account of being principally crown property, is disfranchised.

The dockyard presents a fine and noble appearance; and under the able superintendence of Joseph Hart, Esq., everything seems to be conducted in the best possible manner; while the yard itself is kept so beautifully clean, that a walk through it affords real pleasure. The exertions of Mr. Hart may perhaps be better appreciated when it is considered that only six labourers are allowed him to perform all necessary duties; and that these men are also liable to be called upon by the pilot, at a moment's notice, whenever that officer is employed in piloting vessels of war in or out of the harbour.

The storehouses upon St. Helena are principally used for storing coals, and in consequence, her majesty's steam-vessels frequent more that side of the dock. The largest ships of war (that visit these seas) can go alongside this wharf when necessary.

On the south of St. Helena lies "Freeman's Bay," where such of H. M. vessels as are intended to remain but a short time generally anchor; the offing being more readily gained from thence than when further in.

The last-erected part of this naval establishment, or "the dockyard," as it is more generally called, is separated from St. Helena by the blue waters of the dock, and contains various buildings, of which I shall first mention the commissioner's room, and pay offices, (under one roof,) as that was the first place I visited. The commissioner's room is a very pleasant apartment, with windows to the east and west, and folding-doors to the south opening upon a small stone terrace, with a flight of steps leading to the wharf beneath. From this terrace a delightful view may be obtained. St. Helena lies exactly opposite, its warehouses reflected in the clear, blue sea, which flows at your feet; on your left, Clarence House, and the adjacent country; while, on your right, the mouth of the harbour, guarded with its forts, and the blue ocean, with its snowy crested waves, blends with the sky in the distance. In the apartment itself are considerable quantities of Psalters and New Testaments, designed, I suppose, for the use of the naval seamen; but those annoying pests, the cock-roaches, have made sad work with the bindings. Leaving this room, we walked into the pay offices, divided by blue railings, into the commissioner's office, master shipwright's office, master attendant's office, and storekeeper's office; as the several white-lettered inscriptions informed me. These paying offices are all contained in one apartment, measuring about 8 feet by 4 feet. They must not be corpulent persons who occupy them, or they will be less at their ease than poor "Hudibras" was in the "Wooden Bastile."

Descending another flight of stone steps, we crossed part of the yard, and arrived at the naval officers' quarters, a very pleasant and handsome building, along which runs a pretty verandah, commanding a similar view to that obtained from the terrace of the commissioner's room. Underneath these quarters, is the principal tank, divided into twelve compartments, and capable of containing 1000 tuns of water. From this tank pipes pass under-ground, to the edge of the wharf, (a distance of a hundred feet,) which being furnished with a cock, the water can be turned into the casks at pleasure; or, when in great haste, another pipe is fixed from thence into the hold of the ship, which in this manner receives its proper allowance of water, at a distance of 100 feet from shore.

A few paces from the officers' quarters, stands a large building, 100 feet by 90 feet, used as a copper, steamer's, and lumber store; attached to which are four semi-circular tanks, capable of holding ten tuns of water each. Passing from this, we came to the cordage, sail, canvass, and clothing store, of a similar size; and opposite to which, at the distance of about ten feet, is the working mast-house, (100 feet square,) and joiners' loft above. In this building a party of men were busily employed in making a new mast for H. M. schooner, "Fair Rosamond," which, having met with an accident, a few days before, had put into Antigua to repair. Parallel with this building is another working mast-house, and joiners' loft above, of similar dimensions to the former, used also for the accommodation of the yard engines.

Peeping into a snug little box, called the porter's lodge, and passing the guard house, store for condemned articles, and paint store, we entered the boat-house. By this time the sun had gained its meridian height, and poured a blaze of light over the whole yard, which, reflected from the white, sandy ground, dazzled my eyes with its powerful radiance, and oppressed me with its excessive heat. As I entered then this building, how delightful did its cooling air strike upon me!--how sweet was the breeze which passed over my brow, and allayed its throbbing! while the gentle plash of the water sounded most musically to the ear. One part of the boat-house is floored; the other has a channel cut in it to the depth of 18 feet, for the admission of the water. The roof is supported by 16 round stone pillars, of 12 feet in circumference; and above is a loft, where ships'-sails are kept. Leaving the boat-house, we entered the tar and block stores, where we found a part of the crew of the "Fair Rosamond" employed in making _spun-yarn_, used for the purpose of lashing, &c.

About 20 feet distant, is a building containing painter's cabin for grinding paint, and the engineer's office, beneath is a lead cellar. We next visited the engineer's workshop, where we were agreeably entertained with seeing the cutting and punching machine put into motion. I am not engineer enough to describe this machine in a technical manner, and must therefore only remark that, by means of an oblong wheel, if I may be allowed the expression, worked by two men, it is capable of cutting through the thickest piece of cold iron, with the same ease and quickness a person would cut a scrap of paper, and at the same time, punching holes of about the diameter of a shilling through another piece of the same metal. We also saw a turning-lathe capable of turning any description of iron from three inches to 28 in diameter. There were also innumerable machines, of other forms, and for various purposes, which were put into motion for our amusement; and a piece of the iron, which had been cut and punched in divers figures, was tendered to me--a memento of an engineer's workshop in a West Indian dockyard.

The next place we entered was one more suited to a hyperborean climate than an Antiguan noonday--a blacksmith's shop. Here, six forges can be worked; and several Cyclops ply their skill amid their dingy implements. To these forges, immense bellows "turned their iron mouths," and, impelled by swarthy hands, sent forth a shower of glittering sparks. We also saw, two patent blowing machines, manufactured by "Thomas, late Halley and Co.," which, by a peculiar arrangement, propels the blast upwards and downwards at the same time. The master blacksmith worked them for a few moments, but informed us they had not so much power as the first pair of bellows we observed upon our entrance, which, from its magnitude, ought to be called the "King of the Bellows." He bid us place ourselves before the mouth of this last-mentioned pair, and we should be convinced of the truth of his assertions; but as I felt no wish to be blown away in a gale of ashes, I declined the invitation, humbly subscribing to his superior knowledge in such matters. I could not help thinking, that had Eolus known the use of these "blowing-machines," what a far more powerful wind he might have raised, than (as it is pictured he did) by employing the sons of Astræus to blow so painfully with their distended cheeks amid his mighty caverns.

Leaving the blacksmith's shop, we passed the sawpit shed and smaller tank, and the shipwright's house, and then turning an acute angle, came to a very pleasant residence, occupied by the superintendent of the yard, Mr. Hart. Here I met with some of my favourite lime-trees, their pearly flowers redolent with perfume. Mr. Hart kindly plucked for us some of the golden fruit; and afterwards presented, what was dearer to me, from the recollections they call up, three beautiful roses.[86] I may be laughed at for being so fanciful, but I never see a rose, I never inhale its rich fragrance, without wandering in imagination through the flowery gardens of my own land. "Oh! England, my own dear country! never did one of thy children love thee better than I do! In the midst of sickness, in the midst of suffering--when the fervour of a tropical sun burns through my very frame, and the climate throws its languor around me--my mind still reverts to thy verdant fields, I see again thy hawthorn-hedges with all their snowy blossoms, thy carpeting of lovely lowly flowers,--I breathe thy countless odours,--I hear thy sweet-toned birds, or the soft chime of thy village bells, and feel upon 'my very cheek thy bland and healthy breeze.'"

But to return to Mr. Hart and his roses. I kept them through the hot day, bore them in safety to my home, and they now stand before me. But, alas! their beauty is all gone,--their discoloured leaves seem to mourn their own dishonour; and only that "the scent of the roses hangs round it still," I should scarcely know what the vase contains.

After resting in a cool apartment for some time, and taking a glass of lemonade which Pomona herself would not have refused, the carriage was ordered to the door, and we were in the act of stepping in, when it occurred to us that this was a good opportunity to visit the spot where Lieut. Peterson received his death wound.

I have already mentioned, in the historical part of this work, this unfortunate incident, but, with the permission of my readers, I must again allude to it. At the time of the occurrence, Lord Camelford commanded the "Favourite," sloop of war, and Commodore Fahie the ship "Perdrix," Mr. Peterson holding the rank of first lieutenant on board the last-named vessel. Commodore Fahie had left Antigua a short time before, to take temporary command of the fleet, then anchored before St. Kitts,[87] and during his absence, Lieutenant Peterson was, of course, left in command of the "Perdrix."

It was the custom, in those troubled days of warfare, for boats to row backwards and forwards across the harbour during the hours of night, the sailors of the different ships in the dock, headed by one of their officers, taking it by turns to keep this watch; and the sleeper might often be roused from his dreams as the deep-toned _all's well_ resounded through the still night air.

Lord Camelford and Lieutenant Peterson were unhappily at variance; and, perhaps to mortify his rival, Lord Camelford ordered Mr. Peterson to take the watch upon the very evening that a gay ball was to be given at Blacks Point to the naval officers. Unfortunately Lieutenant Peterson entertained the idea that as he was in command of the _ship_ "Perdrix," in the absence of Commodore Fahie, he was superior officer to Lord Camelford, who only commanded a sloop; and, in consequence of this false impression, he positively refused to obey his lordship's orders.

The disastrous evening approached, and the lieutenant retired to his quarters above the capstan-house, in order to dress for the festive party. Arming himself with a pair of loaded pistols, and telling his boat's crew to attend him, Lord Camelford quitted his retirement, and stationed himself directly between the capstan house and the guard house, (now called the commissioner's house,) and there waited the approach of Mr. Peterson, whom he had already summoned to attend him.

Upon the unfortunate young officer making his appearance, accompanied by some of his friends, his lordship again commanded him to take charge of the watch for the evening--the command was again refused--when, taking one of the pistols from his bosom, Lord Camelford immediately fired, and the ball passing through the breast of the brave, but inconsiderate lieutenant, he fell a corpse upon the ground, the deadly stream welling from the wound, and staining, as it flowed, the gay ball-dress which he wore.

No sooner did the well-aimed weapon do its work, than, drawing the other from its resting-place, his lordship turned to the second lieutenant of the "Perdrix," and pointing it at him, asked if he would obey his orders, or meet the same punishment as Mr. Peterson? Life is sweet! The second in command saw his friend stretched at his feet with the red blood gurgling around him, and fearing the same fate, he obeyed Lord Camelford, and took the watch.

Oh, duty! what a stern goddess thou art! or else how much art thou belied, for the deed was laid to thy charge. He disobeyed his superior officer, and in the midst of health, of buoyant feelings, and without, perhaps, time to think of a _hereafter_, he was to _die_. I can never more pass those sunken anchors which mark the tragic spot, without thinking of the mournful fate of this self-deceived mutineer, poor Lieutenant Peterson, or fancying I can see him in his death throes, stretched upon that sandy ground by the hand of him who had been once his friend.

This circumstance was not the only one that caused Lord Camelford's name to be well known in Antigua. Upon another occasion he went to Mr. Kitto, then superintendent of the naval-yard, and informed him he wanted certain alterations made on board the vessel of war he commanded. Mr. Kitto, in the mildest terms, acquainted his lordship that he could not oblige him, as it would be going beyond his warrant. To this refusal the angry officer made no reply, but immediately going on board his ship, he summoned his boatswain to his presence, and ordered him to provide himself with a cat-of-nine-tails, and hold himself in readiness to accompany him ashore.

In the course of a short time, Lord Camelford, the boatswain, and his mate, and a few of the crew of the "Favourite," proceeded to the dockyard, and a message was despatched to Mr. Kitto, desiring his attendance.

Upon the arrival of the superintendent, Lord Camelford again demanded to know if he would accede to his wishes, at the same time giving a pretty broad hint that, in case of refusal, his back should be visited by the "Cat." Mr. Kitto once more observed, "It would be going beyond my warrant," when, as he uttered these words, at a signal from his lordship, the unfortunate superintendent was seized, and twelve dozen lashes inflicted with no unsparing hand by the boatswain of the "Favourite."

This illegal and brutal conduct was not, however, passed over; a complaint was laid against Lord Camelford, and the case was investigated at the court house. Upon the day of trial, as may be supposed, the court was thronged with spectators; the assault was proved, and bail was about to be demanded, when his lordship begged permission to retire for a short time. His request was complied with; but no sooner had he gained the outer gate of the court house, than, seizing a horse which some gentleman visitant had fastened to the iron palisading, he mounted, and rode away in direction of English Harbour as fast as the animal could be urged.

In a moment all was confusion. "The prisoner's escaped!" was the universal cry; and as the truth became known within the court house, various were the individuals who hurried forth, mounted their horses, and joined in the pursuit. The Honourable Edward Byam was then president of the island, and with the same high spirit of equity which has ever marked that family, and unbiassed by the rank of the offender, he immediately threw up one of the windows of the court-house, and shouted--"A hundred pounds for his recapture--a hundred pounds for his head!"

On kept Lord Camelford, (almost overtaken by one of the constables, a very athletic man, of the name of White,) until at length the horse he was riding fell down from exhaustion, and obliged his lordship to take refuge in an adjoining cane-field. Upon the party who were in pursuit gaining the place of his retreat, a sudden stand was made. The rabble who had joined the party, and some of the horsemen, were stationed around the cane-field; while the constables, with a few attendants, and several dogs, entered the precincts of the field, and literally hunted the offending lord through its tangled mazes, until, overcome with fatigue, and unarmed, he was taken by his pursuers.

In the escape, Lord Camelford's hat had fallen off, and he was therefore placed upon a horse bareheaded; and in this manner, surrounded by the officials, and followed by all the riff-raff of "St. John's and its environs," he was brought back, and once more placed before the court. Lord Camelford was ordered to find bail for his appearance at the sessions. The amount of his recognisances was 5000l.; Walter Colquhoun and Walter Riddle, Esqs., standing sureties for his forthcoming. Upon his lordship's return to English Harbour, he drew bills for the amount, (for which his sureties would have been liable by his departure, had he not taken this precaution,) and then proceeded on board his ship "Favourite," made sail, and quitted the shores of Antigua, with no very enviable feelings, it is to be supposed.

The forfeited money was devoted to the purpose of sinking wells, (or springs, as they are termed in the West Indian idiom,) for the accommodation of the inhabitants of St. John's; and accordingly, a party of negroes were employed to prosecute the work.

They commenced their labours at the head of the town, opposite to where the Scotch kirk is now building; but after digging to a great depth, and still finding no appearance of water, they became seriously alarmed, and unanimously refused to proceed, giving as their excuse, "that dey heard all de cocks crowing in de oder world!"

To return to the incidents of our day's journey to English Harbour. After leaving the scene of Lieutenant Peterson's death, we once more walked round by the superintendant's residence, admiring as we went the neat manner in which the ponderous anchors and various-sized buoys were arranged; and then bidding the dockyard farewell, proceeded on our way to the Ridge, which, as its name implies, is the upper ground of a gentle ascent, appropriated to the erection of barracks, and other military establishments, for the accommodation of her majesty's troops. Before I proceed to describe the rest of the Antigua "_lions_," I must be allowed to remark, that, although in my life I have visited many public buildings in England, as well as in other parts of the globe, I never met with more politeness, from the lowest to the highest of the officials, than I experienced at this English Harbour naval establishment.

A few paces from the dockyard, on the road to the Ridge, we passed the ordnance, consisting of two separate departments, divided from each other by an arm of the sea--one used as a store-place for guns and balls, the other for the reception of powder. These deadly weapons were so neatly arranged, the different sizes forming different tiers, and the balls were so prettily packed in the form of pyramids--the day was so fine, the sea so blue, and the buildings themselves so spruce, in their uniform of light yellow picked out with black, that I was quite enraptured with the picture--forgot the _use_ they were intended for, nor thought how many heart-broken wives and desolate orphans had wept, with tears like blood, the carnage such instruments had effected.

The road wound up the ascent, which is continued until the Ridge is gained. On one side stands a very pretty residence, known as "Clarence House," belonging to the queen, and one of the dwellings the superintendent of the naval yard has under his control; and on the other side of the road rises "Dow's Hill," surmounted by the country-seat of the governor. In this part of the road, a stone, marked with an anchor, points out the boundary of the naval ground; and on the other side of the stone, the land appropriated to the military commences.

Still following the ascent, in process of time we gained the engineers' quarters, the first building which marks the Ridge; and opposite to it is the victualling office. Passing by the officers' quarters, the barracks for the privates, the several storehouses, and the iron hospital, for the reception of invalid soldiers, we stood upon the utmost verge of the place bearing the title of _Shirley_ Heights, so named after one of the former governors, Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart. A very beautiful view may be obtained from this spot, well worthy of a painter's study. Hills and dales clothed in tropical luxuriance; rocky precipices and lonely glens, where nature sits enthroned; steep mountains and ample solitudes, that look as if the foot of man never disturbed their primeval silence; and gentle slopes, dotted here and there with neat-looking dwellings. Below, on your right, lies the dockyard, with its uniform buildings, and the lovely harbour, forming a complete basin, encircled with its white sands; while beyond, the ocean presents one level sheet of burnished gold, over which the fishing-boats were gaily bounding, and throwing the shadow of their simple sails and slender masts far before them. The mouth of English Harbour, which is 113 fathoms across, was formerly defended in times of warfare by an immense iron chain. That, however, is now no more; but the staples by which it was secured still remain in the massive rocks, to prove the truth of this assertion. It is now protected by two forts placed on each side of the opening: Fort Charlotte, mounted with four guns, 18 and 24 pounders; Fort Berkley, mounting twenty-four guns. At the latter fort is a magazine.

After leaving the Ridge, we turned down a slight declivity, by the victualling offices, on our way to Bat's Cave, and the Savannah. Our road lay through groves of loblolly, manchineel, and acacia, which, twining their long arms together, formed various natural colonnades; while the ground was strewed with their matted leaves, in all stages of decay. Having alighted, we walked through the interwoven path, carefully avoiding as we went the different varieties of cactus, which spring up on all sides, and guarding our faces from the long sharp thorns of the acacia, and the boughs of the poisonous manchineel. The ground, rugged and broken, was plentifully sprinkled with disrupted portions of spar, which glittered in the sunbeams like so many gems, and put me in mind of Sinbad's walk in the "Valley of Diamonds." Immense ground-lizards were trailing their long bodies about, in search of their daily food, so amply provided for them by the great Benefactor of all; while others were basking upon these dazzling fossils, to imbibe the heat of the meridian sun.

After taking many devious routes among the impending bushes, in order to discover the wished-for cavern, I was well pleased to hear the cheerful voice of our pioneer shouting forth "Come this way; I've found the right path." Scrambling, as best we could, over a huge bed of prickly pear, (one of the cactus family,) we gained an opening in the copse, and stood before the mouth of the cave. Two large trees, which grew on each side, extended their gnarled roots (from which the earth had been washed) across the opening, forming natural steps, by which we descended, and stood within the cave.

Huge masses of the rock which forms the cavern have fallen in, and in great measure blocked it up, so that it now only presents an arena of about 50 feet in circumference, although in time past it was of considerable extent. From the main cavern, two passages branch off in opposite directions. They are perfectly dark, the only means of exploring them being by the use of flambeaux; but to what length they extend has never been discovered. Mr. McLane, a late resident of English Harbour, (now of Canada,) has made several attempts to that purpose, all of which proved fruitless; the greatest distance he ever proceeded was to the extent of two sea-lines, about 120 yards. The only known occupants are bats, which breed there in immense numbers, and often attain the size of a common pigeon. A dank unhealthy vapour is emitted from these openings, proceeding, no doubt, from the carbonic acid gas they contain. This vapour soon extinguishes the light of a torch, which is one reason this cavern has never been further explored.[88] A streak of dark green runs down one side of the cave, which was pointed out to me as indicating the existence of copper; but upon examining a portion of the rock I brought away with me, I found that the colour was occasioned only by a vegetable substance adhering to the stones.

In former times, Bat's Cave was a great place of concealment for the tribes of erratic Caribs, when visiting Antigua on their predatory excursions; and tradition still points it out as the scene of a barbarous carousal among that wild and savage race, in one of their attacks upon this island. As, however, I am now giving the narration of a day's journey, I will proceed to mention the other spots we visited, and leave the Legend, which is rather lengthy, for the next chapter.

Emerging from "Bat's Cave," and wending our way amid the same rugged impediments, in process of time we reached our vehicle, and stepping into it, proceeded to visit the ruins of the old government house in the Savannah, the scene of the attack narrated in the "Legend of Ding a Ding Nook," and of a similar attempt in 1654. After driving for a short distance over pasture land, exhibiting a dreary view of brown and withered herbage, the effects of the late dry weather, (rendered more striking by the contrast of the deep green of the different trees,) which crackled under the horses' feet, we arrived at another tangled maze of shrub and brushwood, where it was again necessary to proceed on foot, in order to prosecute our intended search. Forcing our way through this almost impenetrable thicket, rendered in some places more impervious by the twinings and intertwinings of the withe, (a native parasite,) stooping to avoid some straggling branch, or springing over a thorny bank, we gained an open glade; and walking up the gentle acclivity, stood by the side of the ruins.

They consist of what appears to have been a cistern, probably the first built in the island, and a low wall of stone, marking the foundation of the government house. Within this last-mentioned ruin stand two tombs, the inscriptions upon which are as follows:--

Antigua. Here lieth the body of Mrs. Elizabeth Warner, Late wife of Edward Warner, Of this island, Esq. She was a woman of exemplary piety; She was the best of wives, The tenderest of mothers, The faithfulest of friends, And of a most charitable, compassionate disposition, Whose death was generally and deservedly lamented By the good people that knew her. She departed this life the thirteenth of August, 1723, In the 37th year of her age.

Here lies the body of Mr. Henry Warner, Who died on the 17th day of Sept, 1731, In the 39th year of his age, Much beloved and lamented By all that knew him. In memory of whom, his Affectionate brothers, Edward and Ashton Warner, Erected this Monument.

About these tombs grew many a sweet and fragile flower, and many a gaily painted butterfly hovered around, and sported in the blaze of the "great luminary;" while the "Turk's caps" (another species of cactus) shewed their crimson crests in all directions. A broken bottle, the relic of some former maroon (_fête champetre_) lay upon one of the tombs--not more fragile or fickle in its nature than the mouldering dust which slept beneath, or those who in the heyday of life stood looking on.

Leaving the tombs and ruins to their usual solitude, we retraced our steps; but in doing so, I could not help thinking that the name "_Savannah_" was misapplied, or Dr. Johnson was wrong in his etymology, for I am sure there is wood in abundance of one kind or the other. A great number of wild cattle inhabit this part of the country, deriving, it is said, a plentiful supply of nutriment from the herbage found there.

On our return to English Harbour, along the same road, we had a glimpse of "Indian Creek," so famous in "story," which meanders through verdantly-decked shores in a picturesque manner. It derives its name from an engagement which took place upon its banks, between a party of Caribs, (or Indians,) narrated in the following "Legend."

Once more entering the village of English Harbour, we proceeded to the house of W. C. Brooks, Esq., where we rested for some time, experiencing those nameless acts of hospitality for which the Antiguans are noted; and where I willingly laved my burning temples with the fragrant "Eau de Cologne." Really, this marching and counter-marching, beneath a tropical sun, is no slight matter, let my readers think as they may. "Sol" visits the face with many a fiery mark, and if he _kisses_, he leaves his _sting_ behind. I felt glad when we once more took our way to town; and although no lovely moon was abroad,

"----the floor of Heaven Was thick inlaid with patines of bright gold,"

which sufficed to light us gloriously on our way, and bring us in safety to Spring Gardens.

------

[84] It may be necessary to remark, for the benefit of my English readers, that although Saturday is the principal _market-day_, Monday is more generally used by the labouring class for coming into the capital to provide their weekly supplies. So much is this the case, that where you may see fifty labourers employed upon a plantation upon the other days of the week, on Monday you will scarcely find twenty.

[85] As it may amuse the reader, we here transcribe an original letter, written by our great naval hero at this period, which is carefully preserved by its proprietor as an invaluable relic:--

"English Harbour, Aug. 3rd, 1784.

"As the captains of the navy at this port mean to establish a mess for the hurricane months, by their desire I write to beg that you will send us round, by the first opportunity, the undermentioned articles--viz., one hogshead of port, one of the best white wine that you have, twelve dozen of porter in bottles, fifty pounds loaf sugar, one firkin of good butter, two baskets of salt, two pounds black pepper.

"I have the honour to be, your humble servant,

"Horatio Nelson.

"P.S. As we only wait for these things to begin our mess, the sooner they arrive the better. Mr. Druce, the agent victualler is a going to send provisions round for the Fury which will be a good opportunity.

"Addressed to ------ Kerr, Esq."

[86] It may be necessary to remark, that roses are very choice flowers in Antigua, the climate not appearing to agree with them. This is strange, as in the East Indies, where the heat is even greater, whole fields are planted with this beautiful shrub, in order to get their leaves to distil the far-fame "Attar."

[87] Of which island he was a native.

[88] It is supposed that these passages extend to the sea-shore, a distance of about a quarter of a mile.