Part 20

The extreme richness of the habits of those days were accompanied by equal extravagance in the furniture of Beds, advertised as stolen 1715, and thus described: "Four Curtains of damask, a blue ground and changeable flowers; the curtains lined with white satin, having a mixed fringe. A white satin Quilt to the said bed embroidered. Four flowered velvet Curtains of a yellowish ash-colour, in a border of the same kind of flowered velvet of a musk-colour; the border trimmed with green lace with a stripe of red, lined with a striped India muslin." Those were the property of a lady resident in Bedford-row, whose name is not mentioned.

The Weekly Journal of January 1717 mentions the death of the celebrated mantua-maker Mrs. Selby, whose inventive talents supplied the ladies with that absurd and troublesome obstruction, that enemy to elegance and symmetry, the Hooped Petticoat. The same paper of a subsequent date contains an humourous essay on the advantages and disadvantages of the Hooped Petticoat. As I presume the reader with me inclines to the disadvantages, he will be pleased with a short extract: "I believe it would puzzle the quickest invention to find out one tolerable conveniency in these machines. I appeal to the sincerity of the ladies, whether they are not a great incumbrance upon all occasions (vanity apart) both at home and abroad. What skill and management is required to reduce one of these circles within the limits of a chair, or to find space for two in a chariot; and what precautions must a modest female take even to enter at the doors of a private family without obstruction! Then a vivacious damsel cannot turn herself round in a room a little inconsiderately without oversetting every thing like a whirlwind; stands and tea-tables, flower-pots, China-jars and basins innumerable, perish daily by this spreading mischief, which, like a Comet, spares nothing that comes within its sweep. Neither is this fashion more ornamental than convenient. Nothing can be imagined more unnatural, and consequently less agreeable. When a slender Virgin stands upon a basis so exorbitantly wide, she resembles a funnel, a figure of no great elegancy; and I have seen many fine ladies of a low stature, who, when they sail in their hoops about an apartment, look like children in Go-carts."

Black and white beaver Hats for ladies were advertised in 1719, faced with coloured silks, and trimmed with gold or silver lace.

Wigs maintained their ground in 1720; and white hair for the manufacture of them bore a monstrous price, if we may credit that that of a woman aged 170, of a very considerable length, produced 50_l._ after her death from a Perriwig-maker. _Original Weekly Journal._

The man of fashion in 1720 wore the full-curled flowing Wig, which fell in ringlets half way down his arms and back; a Neckcloth tied tight round his neck; a Coat reaching to his ancles, laced, strait, formal, with buttons to the very bottom, and several on the pockets and sleeves; his Shoes were square at the toes, had diminutive buckles, a monstrous flap on the instep, and high heels; a belt secured the coat, and supported the Sword.

A man advertised a wonderful Wig to be seen in Sidney-alley, Leicester-fields, at one shilling each person in February 1721. He said it was made without weaving or sewing; in short, as Sterne says, it might be immersed in the Ocean without derangement.

The ladies wore Hooped Petticoats, scarlet Cloaks, and Masks, when walking. The Hoops were fair game for the wits, and they spared them not.

"An elderly lady whose bulky squat figure By hoop and white damask was rendered much bigger, Without hood and bare-neck'd to the Park did repair, To shew her new clothes, and to take the fresh air; Her shape, her attire, rais'd a shout and loud laughter; Away waddles Madam; the mob hurries after. Quoth a wag, then observing the noisy crowd follow, As she came with a _hoop_, she is gone with a hollow."

If the Flying Post of June 14, 1722, may be credited, the Bishop of Durham[323:A] appeared on horseback at a review in the King's train "in a lay habit of purple with Jack boots, and his hat cocked, and a black wig tied behind him, like a militant officer."

George II. reviewed the Guards in 1727, habited in gray cloth faced with purple, with a purple feather in his hat; and the three eldest Princesses "went to Richmond in riding-habits with hats and feathers and _periwigs_." _Whitehall Evening Post, August 17._

If the reader will have the goodness to forgive the introduction of very vile doggrel lines, I will in turn present him with a Beau of 1727:

"Take one of the brights from St. James's or White's; 'Twill best be if nigh six feet he prove high. Then take of fine linen enough to wrap him in; Right Mechlin must twist round his bosom and wrist, Red heels to his shoes, gold clocks to his hose, With calves _quantum suff_--for a muff; In black velvet breeches let him put all his riches; Then cover his waist with a suit that's well lac'd. 'Tis best if he wears not more than ten hairs, To keep his brains cool on each side his scull. Let a queue be prepar'd, twice as long as a yard, Short measure I mean; there is great odds between. This done, your Beau place before a large glass; The recipe to fulfil mix with powder pulvil; And then let it moulder away on his shoulder. Let a sword then be tied up to his left side, And under his arm place his hat for a charm. Then let him learn dancing, and to ride horses prancing, Italian and French, to drink and to wench: O! then with what wonder will he fill the _beau monde_ here!"

_Mist's Journal._

I have met with the following description of the dress of a Running Footman in 1730: "They wear fine Holland drawers and waistcoats, thread stockings, a blue silk sash fringed with silver, a velvet cap with a great tassel; and carry a Porter's staff with a large silver handle."

The Beaus of the day seemed emulous of the Running fraternity in the latter part of their _insignia_, according to the Universal Spectator, which says: "The wearing of Swords at the Court-end of the town is by many polite young gentlemen laid aside; and instead thereof they carry large Oak Sticks, _with great heads and ugly faces carved thereon_."

An advertisement in March 1731 mentions several articles of the dress of the time; amongst which were, "a black velvet Petticoat; a rose-coloured paduasoy Mantua, lined with a rich mantua silk of the same colour; a Suit of black paduasoy; a long velvet Scarf, lined with a shot silk of pink and blue; a long velvet Hood; a long silk Hood laced; two white short silk Aprons, one embroidered with silk at the edges; one green silk Apron embroidered with silk and silver; three new muslin India half Handkerchiefs, spotted with plated silver; two gauze half Handkerchiefs, one brown embroidered with gold, silver, and silk; a short crimson satin Cloak, lined with white silk; a gold and silver Girdle, with Buckles set with Bristol stones, &c."

The Weekly Register of July 10, 1731, contains a lively survey of female dress, which I have transcribed for the information and amusement of the reader.

"A GENERAL REVIEW OF FEMALE FASHIONS; ADDRESSED TO THE LADIES.

"The love of novelty is the parent of fashion, and, as the fancy sickens with one image, it longs for another. This is the cause of the continued revolutions of habit and behaviour, and why we are so industrious in pursuing the change: this makes fashion so universally followed, and is the true reason why the awkwardest people are as fond of this folly as the genteelest, who give a grace to every thing they wear. This affectation indeed is so notorious, that a certain lady of humour and quality, trusting to the inimitable beauties of her own person, very frequently invented some whimsical dress, which she herself was sure to become, that the rest of the ladies might copy her to their own confusion; but as soon as the stratagem had effectually taken place, she laughed at their folly, and left them to be ridiculous by themselves. Hence it is plain that every novelty is not beauty, and that it requires great elegance of taste, and truth of judgment, to determine the modes of dress, that every one should consult the particular turn of their own manner in their choice, and be well convinced of its propriety, before they ventured to set the world an example. But, as this is very seldom found, I shall content myself with recommending it only, and make the present entertainment a mere Register of the fashions that are by turns in vogue, with a hint or two at the characters of the inventors. I shall not busy myself with the ladies Shoes and Stockings at all; it may serve to recal some ideas to the young fellows of this age, which it does not become my character and office to encourage; but I cannot so easily pass over the Hoop when it is in my way, and therefore I must beg pardon of my fair readers, if I begin my attack where the above-mentioned pretty gentlemen end theirs. It is now some years since this remarkable fashion made a figure in the world, and, from its first beginning, divided the public opinion, as to its convenience and beauty. For my own part, I was always willing to indulge it, under some restrictions; that is to say, if it is not a rival to the dome of St. Paul's, to incumber the way, or a tub for the resistance of a new Diogenes; if it does not eclipse too much beauty above, or discover too much below.--In short, I am for living in peace; and I am afraid a fine lady, with too much liberty in this particular, would render my own imagination an enemy to my repose.

"The Farthingal, according to several paintings, and even history itself, is as old as Queen Elizabeth, of blessed memory, though it is possible it had its original in the same manner with the hoop, and was worn as universally: but the prudes of our days revived it in stark opposition to that fashion, and boasted that while they were in that circle, they were secure from temptation; nay, some of them have presumed to say it gave them all the chastity of that heroic Princess, who died, as she had lived, a virgin, after so many years of trial.--N. B. Her Maids of Honour wore Farthingals as well as her Majesty, and undoubtedly participated of the same virtue, though I submit that point to the examination of the learned.

"The Stay is a part of modern dress that I have an invincible aversion to, as giving a stiffness to the whole frame, which is void of all grace, and an enemy to beauty; but, as I would not offend the ladies by absolutely condemning what they are so fond of, I will recall my censure, and only observe that even this female armour is changing mode continually, and favours or distresses the enemy according to the humour of the wearer. Sometimes the Stomacher almost rises to the chin, and a Modesty-bit serves the purpose of a Ruff: at other times it is so complaisant as not to reach half way, and the Modesty is but a transparent shade to the beauties underneath. This is what one may call opening the windows of Heaven, and giving us a view of Paradise; the other shuts up every avenue, and makes Reserve a Dragon for its security: the first may give passion too great a licence, and the last may be an injury to nature: for which reason I recommend a medium; Coquets are the encouragers of one, and Prudes of the other.

"I have no objection to make to the Tippet. It may be made an elegant and beautiful ornament; in Winter the sable is wonderfully graceful, and a fine help to the complexion: in Summer the colours and the composition are to be adapted with judgment, neither dull without fancy, nor gaudy without beauty. I have seen too many of the last; but, as I believe them to be the first trial of a child's genius in such performances, I only give this hint for their amendment.

"As the Breast-knot allows a good deal of ingenuity in the delicate choice of colours, and disposition of figure, I think it may be indulged; but very sparingly, and rather with a negligence, than the least affectation.--It seems there is a fashion even in the colours of ribands, and I have observed a beautiful purple to be lately the general mode; but it is not the beauty of the colour that recommends it so much, as the symbol it is said to bear: a set of fashionable people have thought fit to entitle themselves the Gallant Schemers, and this is the ensign of the order; this is hung out to distinguish the society, who publicly declare that gallantry is their business, and pleasure their only idol.--I thought myself obliged to make this known, that nobody, through ignorance, might be led astray.--She that invented it, is above regarding the discovery; such a liberty is but spirit and genius in quality, and only meets with censure from the vulgar.

"I come now to the Head-dress, the very highest point of female elegance; and here I find such a variety of modes, such a medley of decoration, that it is hard to know where to fix: lace and cambrick, gauze and fringe, feathers and ribands, create such a confusion, occasion such frequent changes, that it defies art, judgment, or taste, to reconcile them to any standard, or reduce them to any order.--That ornament of the hair which is styled the Horns, and has been in vogue so long, was certainly first calculated by some good-natured lady to keep her spouse in countenance; and, by sympathy, the fashion has prevailed ever since.--The _Tête de Mouton_ has made no farther progress, than those who first imported it from Paris. They inform you the wearer has seen the world, and has acquired sense enough to contemn the fashions of her own country, and courage enough to defy them.--To this may be added, the _Robe de Chambre_; and then the dull untravelled English may begin their ridicule as soon as they please; there is more pleasure in being stared at for the novelty, than there is pain in knowing they condemn it.--But, though the _Tête de Mouton_ has had no more success, we have imitations that will do as well; both sides of a fashionable head are now curled out to the best advantage, and I do not know but, by little and little, we shall be able to conquer our difficulties, and appear with a full fleece, till another foreign belle arrives to furnish us with a new extravagance.

"The High-crowned Hat, after having been confined to cots and villages for so long a time, is become the favourite mode of quality, and is the politest distinction of a fashionable undress. I quarrel with it only because it seems to be a kind of masquerade; it would insinuate an idea of innocence and rusticity, though the Park is not the likeliest place to be the scene of either: in short, if a woman is dressed like a Wood Nymph, I expect the simplicity of manners, and full force of rural nature, which is of a piece with the character; but I am generally most egregiously disappointed. Some lady who was intimate with the intrigue of romances was certainly the reviver of this custom; she had read of lucky adventures in that disguise, and fancied an amour was its inseparable companion. On which account I give public notice, that a High-crowned Hat shall be esteemed as an emblem of an amorous heart, and a signal for the first assignation that falls in the way.

"The Hat and Peruke, which has been some time made part of a lady's riding equipage, is such an odd kind of affectation, that I hardly know under what species to range it; it is such an enemy to female beauty, it is so foreign to every amiable grace, it adds such a masculine fierceness to the figure, and such a shameless boldness to every feature, that neither decency nor elegance can justify it.--None but Amazons ought to wear it; and, if any of the sex are now courageous enough to bid defiance to mankind, I must insist on their wearing the Breeches too, to make their disguise complete. But I am apt to believe it is made use of on quite different motives; it must certainly take place out of a more than ordinary regard to us, and must be meant as the highest compliment. Besides, it may serve to tickle the mind with pretty imaginations; sometimes supply the absence of a beau, and sometimes please with the resemblance. I never see one of these Heroines without ascribing some such cause for her gallantry; and always surmise with what readiness she would part with the appearance in exchange for the reality.

"The Riding Habit simply, with the black velvet cap and white feather, is, in my opinion, the most elegant dress that belongs to the ladies' wardrobe; there is a grace and gentility in it that all other dresses want; it displays the shape and turn of the body to great advantage, and betrays a negligence that is perfectly agreeable. This fashion was certainly first invented by a woman of taste; and I am pleased to see the ladies in general so well reconciled to it. It argues something like good sense in their choice still remaining; and she who makes her whole actions most conformable to that standard, will always be most secure of conquests and reputation."

Perukes were an highly important article in 1734. Those of _right gray human hair_ were four guineas each; light grizzle Ties three guineas; and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five shillings. Right gray human hair Cue Perukes from two guineas to fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark cues: and right gray Bob Perukes two guineas and an half to fifteen shillings, the price of dark bobs. Those mixed with horse-hair were much lower. It will be observed from the gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in fashion, and dark of no estimation.

The following extracts will describe the dresses of 1735: "On his Majesty's birth-day, the Queen was in a beautiful suit, made of silk of the produce of Georgia; and the same was universally acknowleged to excel that of any other country. The Noblemen and Gentlemen wore chiefly at Court brown flowered velvets, or dark cloth Coats, laced with gold or silver, or plain velvets of various colours, and Breeches of the same; their Waistcoats were either gold stuffs, or rich flowered silks of a large pattern, with a white ground: the make much the same as has been worn some time, only many had open Sleeves to their Coats: their Tie Wigs were with large curls, setting forward and rising from the forehead, though not very high: the Ties were thick and longer than of late, and both behind; some few had Bag Wigs.

"The Ladies wore flowered silks of various sorts, of a large pattern, but mostly with a white ground with wide short Sleeves, and short Petticoats: their Gowns were pinned up variously behind, though mostly narrow. Some few had gold or silver nets on their Petticoats, and to their Facings and Robings; and some had gold and silver nets on their Gown-sleeves, like flounces: they wore chiefly fine escaloped laced Heads, and dressed mostly English. Some few had their hair curled down on the sides; but most of them had it pinned up quite strait, and almost all of them with powder, both _before and behind_. Some few had their heads made up Dutch, some with cockades of ribands on the side, and others with artificial flowers; they wore treble escaloped laced Ruffles, one fall tacked up before, and two down, but all three down behind; though some few had two falls tacked up, and one down before. Laced Tippets were much worn; some had diamond Solitaires to hook them together; others had their jewels made up bows and ends. Those without Tippets had mostly very broad-laced Tuckers, with diamond Necklaces and Ear-rings. Diamond Buckles were much worn in the shoes both of the gentlemen and ladies. Lord Castlemain made a very splendid appearance among the young noblemen in a rich gold stuff Coat; as Lady Harcourt did among the ladies, in a white ground rich silk embossed with gold and silver, and fine coloured flowers of a large pattern."

The Editor of the London Evening Post has whimsically described the dresses then prevailing, under the character of Miss Townley, in one of his papers for December 1738, who observes: "I am a young woman of fashion, who love plays, and should be glad to frequent them, as an agreeable and instructive entertainment, but am debarred that diversion by my relations, upon account of a sort of people who now fill, or rather infest the Boxes. I went the other night to the play with an aunt of mine, a well-bred woman of the last age, though a little formal. When we sat down in the front boxes, we found ourselves surrounded by a parcel of the strangest fellows that ever I saw in my life; some of them had those loose kind of great Coats on, which I have heard called _Wrap rascals_, with gold-laced Hats slouched, in humble imitation of _Stage-coachmen_: others aspired at being _Grooms_, and had dirty Boots and Spurs, with black Caps on, and long Whips in their hands: a third sort wore scanty Frocks, little shabby Hats put on one side, and Clubs in their hands. My aunt whispered me, she never saw such a set of slovenly unmannerly Footmen sent to keep places in her life; when, to her greater surprize, she saw those fellows _at the end of the act pay the box-keeper for their places_."

Claret-coloured cloths were considered as handsome suits; and light-blue, with silver button-holes, and silver garters to the knees, was very fashionable between 1740 and 1751. In the latter year a trunk containing these articles was advertised, which will be found to differ but little from some already described. "A scarlet tabby Negligée trimmed with gold; a green tabby Petticoat trimmed also with gold; a white damask Negligée, trimmed with a blue snail blond lace, with a Petticoat of the same; a silver brocade silk Negligée trimmed with pink-coloured silk; a white fustian Riding-habit turned up with blue, and laced with silver, a Petticoat of the same, and a Waistcoat trimmed also with silver."

When our present Queen landed in England 1761, she was habited in a gold Brocade with a white ground; had a Stomacher ornamented with diamonds; and wore a Fly-cap with richly laced Lappets. Such was the then female British dress, which her Majesty adopted in compliment to her Royal consort's subjects.

General Napier lost by robbery in the same year "a painted silk Negligée and Petticoat, the ground white, a running pattern of flowers and leaves, the edges of the leaves painted in silver, and the veins gold, with some birds and butterflies painted thereon."