CHAPTER XXXV

THE FUTURE—ABOVE ALL, A LASTING PEACE

WILL the future bring us peace; above all, a lasting peace? Though nothing less is worth having, _we cannot have war_.

I saw M. Franklin-Bouillon in Paris and, though not perhaps in agreement with all he did in Syria, I maintain that his work in Moudania deserved thanks rather than criticism. He knows the Turks well, and affirms that he would have made peace at Lausanne. He possibly might have done so, but would it have been _lasting_ peace?

* * * * *

On my way back to London we cross the channel in a Handley-Page Aeroplane. There is just time to prepare a conclusive answer to all questions about the harem; for no matter how eager we are to proceed, after six months’ study of the Angora movement, to more important impressions, every newspaper correspondent asks about the harem.

Just as for those who, in the States; held me personally responsible for our policy in Ireland, I stole from _Life_ a witty answer, compressed into this dramatic “tabloid,” that “turned away American wrath”:

“_Pat_: Wouldn’t it be awful if England now gave us all we wanted?”

“_Mike_: Sure, and ’twould be like her to play us the dirty trick.”

In like manner, I prepared two shots to kill “harem” inquiries:—

_One_: “Why has the Turk only one wife, to-day?

“When four wives meant four tillers of the ground, there was ‘sense’ in polygamy. It is ‘folly’ now they buy their dresses in Paris.”

_Two_: “Why are you always so early at the Mosque?” a pious man was asked.

“As I have two wives, I leave home as soon as possible.”

The result was as I expected.

* * * * *

But what about the peace for which we all wait so anxiously?

What has the future in store for us? We must turn over a new page, and find our way with great care, both sides first uttering their _mea culpas_, with honest courage to learn the lesson of their mistakes.

Above all, may Lausanne learn the lesson of Versailles.

Which of the Big Four dared face _the real problems_ of Versailles? They decided nothing, but, leading us into the pestilent zone of neutrality, imposed a “Government by Committees” upon the world, which could not work. Nature abhors neutrality, as she abhors a vacuum. And so it is in politics.

On the other hand, however, we ask ourselves what nation was as badly beaten as Turkey? Yet which of our late enemies has dared such open defiance to the Allies? Not, however, in consequence of their victory over the Greeks; but because she knows that, however much we may pretend, none wants to fight; and no one can win the prize of “Constantinople” save by conquest.

We had foolish visions of a new Byzantium, and thought that Greece would reward our support by a “place on the Bosphorus.” But had the Powers accepted this monstrous idea of a Greek Bosphorus, we should have found it necessary to punish the arrogance of our _soi-disant_ fellow-burglars. The _timeo Danaos_, etc., of ancient Greece has still its place in modern politics.

The Allies, however, knew they could not create a “neutral” Constantinople, and had intended, before the Bolshevik regime, to present the prize to Russia. A “committee” government of France, Italy and England would mean English rule; and our blundering had been too patent.

There remained no choice. Constantinople had to be given back to Turkey. Though she was beaten in the Great War, which she has now forgotten, we could not conquer her (single-handed, as we should find ourselves to-day); and, therefore, “she has to have her own way.” The endeavour to curb New Turkey by “neutral zones” would prove as useless as an attempt to check the tides. It is only by an honest peace, carefully thought out in every detail and planned for permanent security, that we can regain our prestige in the Near East.

Perhaps, however, the greatest lesson we have still to learn from Turkey’s victory was spoken in Gœthe’s lines:—

“He who would be just must have consideration for _all_ men.”

Or again, as it is written in the Turkish lines quoted by Professor Browne:—

Kam máta gawm un wa ma mátat makárimee pum Wa asha gawm un was hum fi ’n—nase amwátu!

Many a people’s virtues survive when themselves are sped, And many a people linger, who are counted by man as dead!

Turkey is not dead, but born again out of the ruins of a Great Civilisation. May there be peace again between East and West, that shall bring peace to a world so greatly needing what it so little deserves!

My final words are of sincere congratulations to New Turkey, of warmest thanks to all the friends who gave unending interest to my visit, of pious hopes for peace.

At Lausanne, Ismet Pasha always gave the toast of “The British Empire and King George,” and I responded with “Turkey and Mustapha Kemal Pasha”; then we touched glasses, coupling the names. May “coming events cast their shadows before.” _Inch Allah!_ and again, _Inch Allah!_

THE END

INDEX

Abdul Halik Bey, the Vali of Smyrna, 44 _et seq_.

Abdul Hamid, an exception, who reversed Turkish ideals, 91 his terrible régime, 160, 191 the ruthless, 210 clever at “losing” Turks and forgetting them, 227 vain hopes for his “Parliament,” 229 his excellent cigarettes, 236 his Turks used to be ordered about, 304 reference to, 22-24, 54, 90, 118, 125, 156, 181, 182, 200, 207, 208, 249

Abdul Medjid, 153

Abiloff, M., Azerbaijan, Ambassador for Caucasians, 202

Ablutions, a religious rite, described, 83

Acropolis, at Athens, difficulties of its ascent, 40, 41

Adabazar, a Circassian tribe, 153

Adalia, school closed, 194

Adam, Mr. Adam, of British delegates, 307

Adana, 125, 198

Abdul Hak, Hamid, Turkish writer, for the people, 220 acknowledged leader of the “New” literature, reconstructs learning and creates the soul of Turkey, 221

Adnan Bey, Dr., Vice-President of the Assembly, 153, 186 Angora High Commissioner in Constantinople, husband of Halidé Hanoum, 206

Adrianople, the Siege of, 288

Æschylus, 41

Afghanistan, Ambassador, 202, 203

Afioum-Karahissar, where they finally leave train, 88, 102, 110

Aga Aglou Ahmed Bey, Director of Angora Press, repeats that “whatever we do is wrong,” 226, admits the value of propaganda, 227, 228 views on the Press, 231

_Agamemnon_, on board the, 195

Ahmet Emine, brilliant journalist, 142

Aidin Railway, antiques found in laying the route, 62, 63

Alascheir, once prosperous, 76, 77

Albania, 294

Albanians, wiped out, 23 scheme to exclude, 169

Albert Hall, 38

Alcohol, its use and abuse, taught in schools, 216

Alewites, 153

Alfred and the cakes, 249

Algeciras, and its assembly of fallen angels, 178

Ali Fouad Pasha, general, President of “Rights of Roumelia and Anatolia,” largely the inspiration of the Assembly, 199 commanding in the North, 224

America and her churches as advertisers, 78 anecdotes of her journalistic enterprise, 97, 98 her two generations of Jews, 118 approved as a “democracy,” 148 should spread gospel of Rockefeller Institute against vermin and microbes, 264

American, author will _not_ pretend to be, ix “nerves” in the war, 26 author supposed to be American, but objects, 75, 76 _et passim_ sings “Swannee River,” 53 the first at Smyrna, his advice, 67 the second at Smyrna, his advice, 67, 68 scheme to rebuild Turkey _à la_ “States,” 85 unwise propaganda for Christians 175 Nonconformity and the Holy War, 239, 240 idle talk of a new “home” for Armenians, 247 their mischievous propaganda, 247 characteristic, of arrogant obstinacy, 262, 263 diplomacy not wanted in English Embassies, 291 Near East relief workers in Anatolia, 203 who are, unfortunately, too pro-Armenian, 203

American Relief Worker to the rescue, 256 _et seq._ his marvellous efficiency as a traveller, 256-258, 259 _et seq._ joins author on journey to Constantinople, 259 views on Greek barbarity, 259, 260 recognises “personal” element in all relations with Turks, 260 eager to know author’s view of American work in Turkey, 263-265 his idea of service in “understanding,” 264 linguist and jack-of-all-trades, 267, 268 rudeness, a tactful cure for women’s nerves, 268 back-stair influence on the League, 315

Americans, do not know how to drink, 113 delightful, _in spite_ of their Government, 114 done fine work in education, 203, 204 in Turkey, with the best intentions, interfere too much, 263-265 may have “concessions,” if they keep their hands off architecture, 269

Anafarta, 182

Anatolia, Greek atrocities in, 63 sense of isolation, 72 great hospitality, 72 _et seq._ general condition of country, 74 _et seq._ nowhere to house the poor people, 75 children and soldiers of, 75 people comforted by being _seen_, 77 wonderful recovery of trade, 101 a typical _han_ (inn), 110 similarity of devastated towns, 125, 126 bazaars and curio-merchants reviving their trade, 126 the carriages and drivers of the country, 135 people seem to have “walked out of the Bible,” 135 excellent newspapers, 142, 144, 208 primitive machinery, 144 must be in at 5 o’clock sunset, 146 accepted heavy taxation, 152 song of her love for Roumelia, 153 carpets and rugs from, 167 the native music, 170 refugees of, 186 unfortunate influence of American relief workers against Turkey on behalf of Armenians, 203, 204 but they have done fine work in education, 203, 204 advantages of Anglo-French capital, 204 retains old customs largely abandoned in Constantinople, 205 true hospitality in a two-roomed cabin, 232, 233 character of the people, 234 everywhere maps of Asia Minor, 234 their folk-songs, 238, 258 cared for by Pope, 239 must not grumble in Anatolia, 256 need lessons in hygiene, 256-258 peasants declare they do _not_ lack anything, 258 a “casual” driver, 259 _et seq._ strange method of caravan-driving, where one donkey leads a troop of camels, 260, 261 colour of soil suggests rich veins of iron, 271, 272 peasants accept low prices when told that times are bad, 275 her folk-songs heard in Lausanne, 299, 300 when it first became Moslem, 308 being manœuvred into power of Helenes, 308 purchased by blood of peasants, 312 reference to, 46, 64, 112, 115, 125, 138, 166, 175, 180, 182, 199, 206, 212, 245, 284, 288, 311 _See_ “Angora”

Andromache, 41

Anglican scheme for union with Greek Church, 239, 240

Angora, “the little Republic of the Mountains,” ix discourtesy to ambassadors from, 27 no luxuries in, 32 unknown to British, 72 misunderstood in Angora, 125 at last near at hand, 127 first view of, 131 somehow disappointing, 132 atmosphere of brotherhood, 133, 134 the town described, 134–135 high rents, 139 everyone reads the papers, 157, 158 the real “New Turkey,” 139, 140 a primitive printing works, 144 the Hadji Baïram “quarter,” 144 not many “sights,” except hospitals, schools and gardens, 145, 146 serious housing problem, 146 how we exaggerate here, 147 all men proud of their country, 148 will Angora or Constantinople be capital of the new State, 149 Holy Angora, 168 Treaty signed here with France, 177 its foreign personalities, 202 _et seq._ Germans have no influence, 202 but are conciliating Turks in Germany, 202 surprising progress, especially in hospitals, 215, 216 former “Director of its Press,” 218 present “Director of its Press,” 226 its famous Mosque of Hadgi Baïram, 223 carries one back to centuries before Christ, 226 where do all the people live? 226 dangers of the bad roads, 232 a “difficult” house to find—“near the pump,” 236 the Christian Colony, 245-247 representative in Rome, 250 admirable organisation of Justice by Djelaleddine Arif Bey, 251, 252 no tips, no haggling over prices, 286 a _woman_ sent out to Angora by French Government, 291 has taken from Constantinople the heart and spirit of Turkey, 295, 296 naturally touching, 304 reference to, 30, 55, 58, 66-68, 88, 105, 108, 120, 121, 156, 160, 168, 178, 205-207, 228, 239, 242, 244, 273 _et passim_

Antigone, 41

Antoine, who staged some of Pierre Loti’s tales, anecdote of, 18

Arabia, words from the Turkish literature, 59, 219, 250

Arabs, scheme to exclude, 169, 222, 306 minority in Mosul, 311

Arden, Forest of, 124

Aristotle, 41

Armenian choir regret their old “good times” with Turks, 236-238 orphans and Father Babadjanian 246, 247 servants in harems, well treated and contented, 315

Armenians, “under Papal protection,” 52 attempt of girls to escape, 64, 65 in America, 78 hard to realise they are Christians, 134 in Cilicia, 153 shawls, 171 orphans, 211 turn to Russia, 221 feel “at home” in Turkey, 237 want to be left alone, 238 call Turkey their “home,” 247 have long filled their pockets out of the Turks, 275 at Lausanne, 299 reference to, 222, 238, 241

Armistice, 182

“Army of Occupation,” what it means, 30

Army of Nationalists, described, 224, 225 increased from 10,000 men to 400,000, with 250 big guns, etc., 224 detailed statistics and character of Staff, 225

Asia Minor, quite safe, 57 and Orthodox Church, 308 map to be seen everywhere in Anatolia, 234 reference to, 25, 139, 197, 204, 212, 244

Asiatics, not inferiors, 59

Asquith, Mr., and his son, 77

Astor, Lady, effect on other women, of her success in Parliament, 291

Athens, visited, 36 _et seq._ its churches, 39, 124, 221

_Athenæum_, on blonde Turks, 228

Augustus, his “comfortable” period, 226

Austerlitz, 166

Australian mothers, their gratitude for “the truth” about Turkey, 208, 280

Aviation ground, reorganised, 101 women aviators, 102

Azerbaijan, ambassador, 202

Babadjanian, in charge of Armenian orphans, 246, 247

Bagdad, and her woman Professor, 125, 190

Balfour, Lord, unfortunate scorn of Turkey, 314

Balkan War, 24, 193, 210

Barrère, M., 299

Beaconsfield, Lord, 141

Bedford College open to Turkish women medical students, 211

Békir Sami Bey, Ambassador from Angora and the Soviets, 27

Benedict XV., Pope, beautiful bust of, 242 killed by strain of war, 244

Benghazi, 182

Berlin, 25, 111

Beyrout, 182, 211

Bieberstein, Marshall von, German diplomat at Constantinople, and his “human” retriever, 24

Bilidjik, station for “the express,” 88, 255, 259

Bismarck, 305

Bitlis, 182

“Black” Sultan, the, 227

Boghetti, who brought fruit, 232

Bolshevism, compared with Moslem, 90 has “no” influence in Turkey, 150, 151 in spite of their magnificent Embassy, 151 and their genuine friendship, 151 at Lausanne, 299

Bosphorus, 251

Boston lady, her insulting lies about life in harem, 315

Briand, M., attack on Lloyd George, 50 his famous Note, 107 his pleasant compliment, 116

British Museum, 63 naval officer at Smyrna, 67 propaganda, 116

Broussa, ancient capital of Turkey, fine hospital at, 215, 216 headmistress at College of, misses the “Christian” pupils, 217 and the comfort of its Hotel Brotte, 272 unexpected visit to, 273 _et seq._ governor’s house burnt to cinders, 273 town had been saved by a brigand, 273 influx of Jews, 274 splendid bathing, 274 silk and tobacco factories, 274, 275 its bazaar, its Mosque, and the letter-writer, 276 true atmosphere of Islam, 276 _et seq._ a minaret and the famous Green Mosque, 277-279 school-house and hospital, 282, 283 reference to, 163, 258, 259, 316

Browne, Prof. E. G., hope that he will translate some of the Turkish books on Nationalism, 217, 218 his perfect knowledge of language, 218 his praise of the author, 218 quoted, 214, 320

Brutus, his wife, 124

Bryce, Lord, his opinion enough to crush all argument, a tale of Western arrogance, 262, 263

Bucharest, 62

Bulgarians, now friends again, 175 more respected than Turks, 129, 310

Burns, Mrs. John, anecdote of her dignity, 133

Byron, Lord, _his_ Greece and his _Maid of Athens_, 41

Byzantine Hippodrome in Constantinople, 27, 308

Cadem Haïr, a maid, whose mistress buys her trousseau, 189

Caliphat, the sacred office, 90

Calthorpe, Admiral, and the Armistice 193 hears tribute to English honour, 195, 227

Calthorpe, 227

Camerad Areloff, Soviet Ambassador in Angora, 152 no influence over Pasha, 169, 202

Canada, 280

Capitulations, unjudicial, incompatible with national sovereignty, would be also injurious to foreigners, 117, 311 naturally “desired” by foreigners, 275

Caracol, the (or lock-up), of Smyrna, 52

Caravan, in charge of a donkey, 260, 261

Carl Marx, 156, 162

Carlyle on Mahomet, 22

Carpet-factory visited, 100, 101

Catholic, what the word now means in Turkey, 52, 63 happy in Turkey, 241

Caucasian Confederation, 182, 202, 224

Cecil, Lord Robert; quaint thoughts of him in Anatolia, 105 impossible scheme to unite Anglicans and Greek Church, 106, 108 should see that “League” does not appear anti-Islam, 50, 313, 314.

Cemetery, like a field of poppies, 101

Ceretti, Monsignor, Paris Papal Nonce, memories of Pope as a young man, 242, 243

Chamber of Deputies, the French, 154

“Chapel of Bones” in Malta, 31

Cheik (once Professor of Arabic at Oxford) joins author in her journey, 69 _et seq._ a delightful travelling companion 71 _et seq._ his appearance described, 71 his generous kindness, 80 his philosophy, 81, 82 talks on politics, 90, 91 must educate his sons in Germany, not England, 93 reference to, 73, 75, 95, 103, 105, 112, 121, 133

Cheik, the; our “troubles” will make history, 80, 81, 102 talk on religion and the Koran, 106, 107 an excellent housewife, 110, 111 claims that Turks are “clean,” 269 reference to, 73, 75, 95, 103, 105, 112, 121, 133

Cheik-ul-Islam, called in to formally depose Khalif, 199, 200 compared to Abdul Hamid’s “Cheik,” 200

Chemsi Effendi, schoolmaster in Salonika, 180

Cheriat laws are not run on a “cash basis,” 251, 269, 270

Chester, Mr., of the U.S., and sky-scrapers, 117, 118

Child Observer, the, or Boy Scout, from America, 300 his “little kindness” to Ismet Pasha, 300

China, 58, 234

Chislehurst, where Kemal Pasha’s future wife was educated, 190

Chivalry, fine, but inconvenient sometimes, 56 _et seq._

Choate, Joseph, stern rebuke of Baron Marshall von Bieberstein, 301, 302

Christ in Koran, 22 venerated by Turks, 92

Christian minorities to be looked after by M. Kemal, 238 must be loyal, 247 only Turks can “protect,” 237, 238

Christian prayer for Turkey and the Pasha, 237

Christians claim exemption from military service, 160 why they have left Anatolia, 175, 176 happy at school with the Moslems, 211 to be exempt from military service, 213 have always lived in harmony with the Turks, 213

Churches, the; their proper function, 108, 109

Cilicia, 120, 153, 224

Circassian tribes, 153

Clapham, 30

Clemenceau, Mons., bigger man than Napoleon, 165, 166 did not know of oil in Mosul, 311

Committee of Union and Progress, 195, 222 its mistakes, 173

Compton, Mr., administers relief in Anatolia, 203

“Conceited ass” a leader of camels, 260, 261

Constant, Mons., French Ambassador at Constantinople, 24

Constantine, of Greece, afraid of air-raids, 94, 95 tale of an “interview” with, 97, 98, 107

Constantinople, its avenue of Pierre Loti, 20 mass meeting in the Byzantine Hippodrome, 27 its “dangerous” distractions, 29 _et seq._ fear of its being handed to Russia, 90 will not tolerate a “Greek” Patriarch, 107, 108 the Hippodrome made in Germany, 118 some impressions of its bazaar, 126 will it be capital of new State? 149 Parliament seized by English, 155 present position and prospects, 176 reforms interrupted by the war, 187 the newspaper called _Illeri_, or _Forwards_, 229 representative in Rome, 250 ceremony of the Mouharrem, 250, 251 its relics of Byzantium, 274 eager for tips, sharp contrast to the Anatolians, 285, 286 fixed tariff required for tips and cabs, 286 compensations in luxury, 286 Armenian concert interrupted by dogs, 294, 295 street-feuds among dogs, who unite against “alien” Christians, 294, 295 still the sublime but no longer the Turkey of the Turks, which is Angora, 295, 296 the holy man of the Tekka, 296, 297 how correspondents “hash up” their news, 303 Ottoman rule in, 308 cannot be neutral, and so intended for Russia, 319 government by committee would mean English rule, 320 must be given back to Turkey, 320 reference to, 23, 26, 108, 125, 153, 163, 179, 180, 182, 193. 203, 206, 220, 224, 239, 244, 252, 259, 263, 273, 284, 288, 307, 309, 311

Conversation without words, 138

Cook, Messrs. Thomas, & Co., Egypt, Ltd., 19, 20

Crowday, Dame Rachel, at the League, 112

Cuba, 49

Curzon, Lord, knows the East, 143 firm, but not insulting, 178 views on the Assembly, 193 books on the East, 227 understands Ismet Pasha, 287 knows the subject, and his own mind; has full powers, 289 for him the right way is not the easy way, 290 compliments the author, 291 his duel with Ismet Pasha, 197, 299 preparing his “part,” 301 a pleasure to meet, 303 unfortunate severity and stiffness of manner in public, 303 really interested in Turks and understands them, 303, 304 might be more himself with Ismet Pasha, 303 cannot ignore “public opinion” in the West, still based on our conception of old Turkey, 304 said of Ismet Pasha, “I like the little man,” 305 naturally told nothing, but asked questions, 305 guesses at his policy, 306 hampered by association with the Coalition, 306 pity he cannot deal more directly with Turks, 306 his public speeches, 306 refuses to recognise religious tolerance of Turks, 309 try to force on Turkey what they would not offer to Greeks or Bulgars, 310 could deal with “public opinion” if he really wished to, 310 always seems to distrust Turks, 310 reference to, 27, 299, 317

Cyprus, 24

Czar Ferdinand, of Bulgaria, at Marienbad, 129

Damascus, 182

Dames de Nazareth, the, at Beyrout, converted to school, 211

Dane at Smyrna, his advice, 67

Dardanelles, the, 182, 224

Daudet, his hero and his goal, 157

Deacoville, 85, 88

de Brock, Admiral, stationed outside Smyrna, 63

de C——, Mrs., widow of Minister in Teheran, 62 _et seq._ her advice, 68 account of fire in Smyrna, 73, 74

Democracy may be “perfect” in the East, 162

Dervishes, the “contemplative” and the “dancing”: fascination of their rhythms, 281 their “progressive” representative, 156

Dersim, its aged Deputy, 155, 156

Diab, Deputy for Dersim, ninety years old, 155, 156

Diarbékir, 139, 234

Diogenes, 77

Diplomacy must be taken up when you are twenty-one, not later, 292

Disraeli, grateful protector of Turks, 241

Divans, early Turkish poems, 219

Djavid Bey, 138, 306

Djelaleddine Arif Bey, represents Angora in Rome, 44, 250 his escape to Angora, 251 strongly against Capitulations, and his admirable organisation of justice, 251, 252 on Palestine, 252

Djellal Noury Bey, editor of the _Illeri_, and the National Pact, 229-231 used to edit a French paper, 230

Djémal Pasha, former Minister of Marines, as interpreter, 98, 208, 249, 250 the late, 235

Dogs lack the dignity of the East, 98

Drake, 249

Drummond, Sir Eric, asks why Turks suspect the League, 314 wants Turkey to be on Council of League, 317

“Drunken Englishman, The,” a popular game in Naples, 113

Dublin, degree given to Turkish woman medical student, 211

Dumas, and his interview with Gregory XVI., 240

Durdje, a Circassian tribe, 153

Dutch parson at Smyrna, his advice, 67

Dutchman who ought to write a book, 53 trusts Turks, 68 tale of how Greeks respect Turkish army, 274

East, Sir Alfred, on painting an Eastern sunset, 297

École Normale Supérieure de Sèvres, school attended by author, 218

Edison, a tale of his youth, 181 on being deaf, 309

Edward VII. and Pierre Loti, 19 at Marienbad, 129, 130

Egypt, 59, 116, 148, 168

Eliot, George, her words are part of the treasure England has for mankind, 214

Ellison, Grace, her mission for peace, ix, x her friendship with Pierre Loti, 17 _et seq._ early admiration of Gladstone, 22 first personal impressions of the Revolution, 23 her “Turkish sister,” 23-25 at Stamboul, 24 her “An Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem,” 24 risks of friendship for Turkey, 25 invited to Angora, 28 some of her views on women, 29 _et seq._ her search for Union Jack, 34 _et seq._ her “defence” of England, 35, 39, 42 her impressions of Athens, 36 _et seq._ on the “modern” Greek financier, 36 _et seq._ and the Hellenes, 38 _et seq._ on imperialism for Greece, 40 on Smyrna, 43 _et seq._ her first impressions of devastations, 43 the first “spinster” to enter Turkey, 44 her battles with the flies, 47, 48 distrust of financiers who exploit Turkey, 50, 51 known as “niece” of Lloyd George, 50, 51 refuses “control” from English chivalry, 54 _et seq._ could meet bullying better than kindness, 55 always “trusts” Turks, 56 entirely unsupported by Government or the Press, 58 “childhood” beginnings of her keen interest in the East, 58, 59 nearly blown up among ruins of Smyrna, 61 actually ready to start for Angora, 66 farewell gifts and advice, 67-69 advice and gifts from men of all nations at Smyrna, 67-69 her “answer” to them all, 69 her delightful companion, the learned Cheik, 69 _et seq._ memories of England, 69, 70 her eventful journey to Angora, 71 _et seq._ first impressions of Anatolia, 72 _et seq._ once more called an “American,” but objects, 75, 76 experience of life in trains, 77 _et seq._ a night in the open, 80, 81 not a true Eastern, 82 a journey on foot, 85 _et seq._ addresses public meeting at Ouchak, 94 _et seq._ does not regret discomfort, 94 reasons for visit to Angora explained, 95 must not have war, 95 demands “friendship” between Turkey and Great Britain, 96 strange ways of her Turkish lady’s-maid, 98 the terror of travelling in a luggage train, 104 _et seq._ refuses to stay in train 109, 110 once more taken for American, 114 her aims and work, 119 making her toilette in the train 122, 123 her “Turkish Woman’s Impressions of Europe,” 124 disappointed at _first_ impressions of Angora, 132 visits newspaper office and printing works, 144 her “guide” in Angora, 144 _et seq._ what to sketch in Angora, 145 once more “why” an American, 148 sort of “father confessor” to beloved new nation, 148 impressions of Assembly, 148 _et seq._ talks with Mustapha Kemal, 159 _et seq._ at the Pasha’s own house, 163 _et seq._ curiously like M. Kemal, 170 her interview with M. Kemal, 174 _et seq._ what it cost her to reach Angora, 183 views and anecdotes of harem life, 184-191 views on “women,” 185 makes friends with Ministers of the Assembly, 192 _et seq._ hopes they will be ready to learn from Europe, 198 renews her friendship with Halidé Hanoum, 205 _et seq._ messages to John Masefield and from Australian mothers, 208 her own “best way” of helping national Turkey, 214 still “more to do” in Angora, 215 visits a Lycée for Girls, 215, 216 interesting Preface to her “Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem,” by Prof. Browne, 218 proud pupil of École Normale Supérieure de Sèvres, 218 organised meetings against help to Czarist Russia, 220, 221 faith the same for all men, 223 indiscreet questions about the army, 224, 225 final impressions of Angora, 226 _et seq._ her ideas of propaganda, 228 she is half-East, half-West, 228 prefers hard work to peroxide and henna, 228 approves the National Pact, 229-231 enjoys a picnic and a good dinner, 231, 232 a poor shot, 231 nearly suffocated by fumes from mangal, 232 visits a wayside cabin, 232, 233 studying the map, 234 talk at a “supper-party” given by an Anglophobian, 235-238 her Turkish sister again, 238 impressions of Rome and the Pope, 239 _et seq._ describes the Pasha to the Pope, 243, 244 visits Armenian orphans, 246, 247 on diplomats in Rome, 249 _et seq._ impressions of several Khalifs, 249, 250 tale of Alfred and the cakes, _and_ of the Suffragettes to Prince Youssouff Zeddine, 249, 250 sees a celebration of the Mouharrem, 250, 251 leaves Angora in the snow, 254 _et seq._ dangerous drives in a yaili, 254 _et seq._, 259 _et seq._ a night “in the open” saved by American efficiency, 256-258 tale of mutual ignorance between English and Americans, 260 “falls in love” with an ass! 260, 261 thinks, on the whole, Americans do more harm than good in Turkey, 263-265 judge a nation by its “gods” and learn “humanity” from Islam, 265 attack on Puritanism towards women, whom all Turks honour and respect, 265, 266 Turks too resigned while our dollar-race drenches the world in blood, 266 life in primitive times, 268 _et seq._ by all means let us play at schemes for rebuilding the world, but leave all the “old bits,” 269 Broussa, and the first chance of brushing one’s hair, 272 tale of letter-writing for a _Poilu_, 276 climbing a minaret, 277 visiting Loti’s Green Mosque, 278, 279 on board a cockle-shell of a boat, cheered by photograph of Gladys Cooper 283, 284 her “harmless” mission to make England a little better understood, 284 impressions of Constantinople, 285 _et seq._ too much heart to be English, 285 her Swan-Song of what she has proved women can do, 291-293 defence of her “Disadvantages of Being a Woman,” 292 only trusted at the Front, when men thought she was French, 292, 293 more at home in French Embassies than English, 293 four Christmas Days in Turkey, 293-295 danger of being too cosmopolitan, 294 holds on to Faith, because War has taken away everything else, 295 anger with jazz bands, 295 first woman admitted in Tekké at Constantinople, 296 at Lausanne, 298 _et seq._ strange feeling of being in a neutral country, 298 severe criticism of journalists at Lausanne, 301-303 helps to make Lord Curzon understand, 304 haunted at Lausanne by memories of Angora, 306 tries to divide time between Turks and British, 307 obtains full explanation of Turkish policy at Lausanne, 309-312 views on the League of Nations, 313 _et seq._ could never obtain statistics about Greek atrocities, 316 hopes for the future, 318 to the end over the Channel in an aeroplane, 318 held responsible in the States for Irish policy, 318 witty answers that turn away wrath, 318 congratulations and thanks to New Turkey, 320

England, memories of, 69, 70

English, the; once welcomed, now distrusted, ix idle policy in Turkey, 25 hated by Greeks, 39 will be soon welcomed again in Turkey, 49, 50 ignorance of Young Turkey, of Angora, and of the Nationalists, 72 humour unlike the French, 124 will now take bribes, 142 our policy will “come right,” 144 seized Turkish parliament in Constantinople, 155 will again be friends with Turks, 174, 178 generous welcome to Turks in England, 211 Taine’s judgment of them quoted, 214 the best real “education,” 218 stupid ignorance of the Khalif’s supreme duty towards Holy Relics, 219 shameful admiration for Russia of the Czars, 220, 221 close a “Nationalist” club, 222 whole “Press” is anti-Islam, 231 must lead attitude of the world towards Turkey, 239 why should we interfere? 263 _et seq._ much to learn from the East in pity and humanity, 265 cruel Puritanism followed by bloodshed in race for dollars, 265, 266 their injustice to Turks entirely due to their being misled by Greek and Armenian dragomen, 280 witty story to illustrate our national habit of not listening, 290 public opinion still based on conception of “old” Turkey, 304 our Empire founded on trust, 306 people in vain seek for confidence from the Government, 306 captured Mosul by violating Armistice, 311 need friendship of Turks, as Turks need English friendship, 312 should have been above pick-pocketing habit of confiscating enemy property, 314 can only regain prestige by honest peace, 320

“Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem, An,” by Grace Ellison, 24 appreciation by Prof. Browne, 218

Envichéir, and its primitive inn, 268

Enver Pasha, evil influence, 25, 92, 98

Erki-Chéir, where General Trécoupis was in captivity, 108 picturesque café, 117 flourishing town, 125 munition-making replaced art, 127 reference to, 123, 129, 254

Europe, will she ever realise? 147, 148

Faith, the same for all men, 223

Falkenhayn, General, whose methods disgusted M. Kemal, 182

Falstaff, 124

Fanar to be separated from Orthodox Church, 308

Fatma, 189

Ferid Bey, Mme.; _see_ “Mufidé Hanoum”

Feszi Bey, Minister of Public Works, 198 author’s host at Angora, 137 _et seq._ his unfailing courtesy, 138, 139, 141-143 appearance and business energy, 139 alarmed at idea of receiving an Englishwoman, 170 his private business, 199 delight in map, 234

Fethi Bey, Minister of the Interior and Ambassador from Angora; his praise of England, 27, 28 his “philosophy,” 32, 33 memories of London, 162 a Minister at thirty-two, 192 his life and character, well known in England, Minister of Interior, 195-197 claims Jerusalem for the Turks, who honour Christ, rather than for Jews, 252, 253 laughs at our English pride of family, 270 humiliated in London by hearing the harem life misrepresented, 315 reference to, 35, 125, 132, 137, 143, 154, 159, 166, 178, 285

Flies in Athens, 37 have real “freedom” in Turkey, 47 _et seq._ the end of, 79

France, why she gave up Cilicia, 120 the Treaty with, 177 value of her political support, 194 not the Power to which Turkey looks for help, 203 ready to give a criminal, _or_ a genius, his chance, 293 denies that she has taken a penny from Turks, 314 reference to, 74 _See also_ “French”

Frank Street in Smyrna, 62

Franklin-Bouillon, M., advises friendship with England, 121 says he could have made peace at Lausanne, 318

Freedom of the Straits must be _real_ freedom, 176-178

French influence in the Near East, 20 unsuspicious, 25, 26 their interests in Syria, 114, 115 Revolution studied by M. Kemal, 181 their influence has played “too large a part” in Turkey, 214 method of typhoid-inoculation, 215 losing the enthusiasm of the Turks, 228 violated Armistice in Cilicia, 311

Frenchman at Smyrna, his advice, 68

Friendship between Turkey and Great Britain essential to both, 96

Fouzouli, earliest writer of love-poetry in Turkish, 219

Front, at the, 96

Gabriel Effendi Nouradunghian, an Armenian, chosen by Turks as Minister of Foreign Affairs, 221

Ghazal, that is, a love song, 219

Gallipoli, 182

Gasparri Cardinal; his views on Turkey, 148 his character, 252

Geneva and the League, 112, 317 cathedral locked, 279

Genoa, 300

George V., the “Moslem” King, 86

Georgian Circassian slaves, 190

Georgians at Lausanne, 299

Gerbervilliers, 95

Gentleman: Turkish ambition to be one, ix, x

Germans have no influence, 202 but are conciliating Turks in Germany, 24, 202 education vitiated by punishments, 218 a trench, 95 Soviets, 306

Germany began to tamper with Nationalist independence and was thrown off, 25, 195, 271

Gladstone, reaction against influence of, 22, 78, 95, 141 Lady, and the Lyceum Club League Circle, 313

Gladys Cooper, her photograph in a ship’s cabin, Queen of Beauty among the ladies of the Levant, 284

Goethe quoted, 143, 320

Gordon, General, author’s father’s praise of, 22, 207, 249

Goschen, Sir Edward, and Edward VII., 129, 130

Grand National Assembly, the parliament of Nationalist Turkey, 135 description of building and position, 148 the band in gardens of, 152 form of proceedings, 153-155 evidence of democracy, 154 different personalities, 155 _et seq._ predominance of military uniforms, 156 rather “difficult” variety of culture among Deputies, 156, 157 false reports at Lausanne of its corruption, 157 is _really_ national, 157 inspires confidence, 158 one chamber the ideal form of government, 162 opposition at present has little weight, 169, 170 its attitude explained by M. Kemal, 174 a Cabinet of young men, 192 its three great men, 192 _et seq._ Cabinet and Prime Minister independent, 192 Ministers are Heads of Departments, 192 real authority rests with the whole Assembly, 192 Lord Curzon does not think system would work for a stable State, 193 difference in knowledge and culture between Deputies, 198 Cabinet and less-known Ministers, 198 _et seq._ difficulties in the future foreseen, 200 has achieved permanent success, 228, 229 the restaurant provided by a professor, 235 a Western atmosphere, 238 deserves congratulations from the Mother of Parliaments, 305 reference to, 146, 247

Grand Tchelebi, progressive representative of Dancing Dervishes, 156

Great Britain breaks her faith with Turkey, 90, 91 bitterness against, 95

Greater Greece, greater than Greeks can sustain, 21

Greek Patriarch supported by Sultans, 308

Greek Pope, the, 39

Greek, moneylenders, 36 _et seq._ the business men of Turkey, 49 atrocities in Smyrna, 26, 60 to enslave Turks, 27 hate Lloyd George, 39 barbarism in Anatolia, 63 ungrateful conduct of refugees, 63 anecdote of cruelty, 73, 74 other examples, 74 Greeks in America, 78 devastations worse than the “German,” 79 burning of trains, 94 their dream of Empire, 107, 221 largely victims of Big Powers, 161 we cannot forget their atrocities, 208 report of them by Halidé Hanoum, 212, 213 Church, 245 further evidence of devastations on return journey, danger of American relief worker, 260 Ottoman Greeks weep when their compatriots burn Broussa, 273 run away from a field of poppies, which they mistake for Turkish soldiers, 274 have long filled their pockets out of the Turks, 275 have always misled the English about the Nationalists, 280 their “victims” in hospital, 282, 283 more respected by the Powers than the Turks, 310 servants in Turkish harems, well treated and contented, 315 statements about, by an Italian lady at Broussa, 316 foolish vision of a place on the Bosphorus, 319 reference to, 52, 222, 241, 244

Green Mosque at Broussa made famous by Pierre Loti, 20, 278, 279

Gregory XVI. interviewed by Dumas, 240

Guests, how they should “direct” their hosts in Anatolia, 138

Gunhani, where railway line is cut, 79, 85 wonderful railway bridge, 88

Hadji Baïram, a “quarter” of Angora, 144 its mosque, 223

Hague, Second Conference, a dramatic moment, 301, 302

HAÏDAR Bey from Vannes, the “old brigand” who buys rugs and carpets for Colonel Mougin, 235-238 sworn never to speak to Englishman, but arranges supper-party for author, 236-238 reference to, 88, 121

Hakki Pasha, Grand Vizier, quoted, 25

Halidé Edib Hanoum, one of the finest women in Turkey, 92 the Jeanne d’Arc of Turkey, 102 never unveils her hair, 138 wanted in “Assembly,” 157 quoted, 184 character, life, and opinions, 205 _et seq._ respected everywhere, wanted in the Assembly, 205, 210 now an enemy to England but ready to love us again, 205 manner and appearance, 206, 207 translates from the American, 207 her work and views on freedom for women, 209 _et seq._ Chief Inspector of Schools, an organiser of education programme, 209 retains the “veil” for its “Nationalist” significance, 210 has prepared report of Greek devastations, 212, 213 pessimistic about Conference, 213 peace but _not_ dishonour, 213 Jeanne d’Arc of Turkey, 214 the greatest woman of the “New” literature, 222 her remarkable “Nouveau Touran,” 222 member of the “Turc Odjagui,” 222 should have been invited to report on harems, 314, 315 reference to, 153, 184, 186, 204, 227, 232, 233

Hamdoullah Soubhi Bey, eloquent speaker for women, 185 character and opinions, 233, 234 eloquent against harem, 233, 234 not lenient to Greeks, 234 can trace Turkish civilisation over the world, 234 simple tastes, and not superstitious, 235 founder of the “Turc Odjagui,” _q.v._, 222, 223

Hamid Bey, 306

_Hamidieh_, the, in the Balkan War, 193

Hamilton, Lady, _did_ influence politics, 290

Harem, misunderstood, 26 provides “real” safety, 30 discussed with M. Kemal, 184-186 descriptions and anecdotes, his own choice, 187-191 not invented by Prophet, introduced in conquest of Byzantium, 190 investigated by the League, 314 formerly described by nursery governesses, 315 Christian servants well treated and contented, 315 a tabloid reply to criticism, 318, 319

Harrington, General; his views on Turkey and Lausanne, 286, 287 his fine work at Moudania, 287 praise of Refet Pasha, 287, 288 and other Turks, 281, 282 reference to, 25, 120

Hassan Fehmi Bey, Minister of Finance, 198

Hedjaz, sacred city, 250

Helen of Troy, 38

Henderson, Arthur, 156

Henderson, Neville, British Chargé d’Affaires at Constantinople, popular in Turkey, though not pro-Turk, 293

Herbert, Colonel Aubrey, authority on Near East, 128

Hikmet Bey, Captain, aide-de-camp to the French colonel, 134, 305

Hindenberg, 182

Hodja, living in oak tree, 77

Hodjas, their reactionary influence, 156 their powers limited, 161 responsible for Turkey’s long sleep, 271 misinterpret Koran, 230

Homer, 41

Horses, agreeable neighbours, 110

Hospitals, greatly advanced in recent years, 215, 216

House, Colonel; why he chose Geneva for seat of the League 317

Hussein Djahid, brilliant journalist, 142, 143 edits _Tanine_, 208, 209 dances to warm his feet, 35, 300

Hussein Raghib Bey, Prof., Chargé d’Affaires in Paris; his account of Nationalist literary revival, 218-223 his “Story of Nationalism,” directed against any “party” policy, 222 a true internationalist, 223 not happy in Europe, away from Angora, 219, 264

Hygiene needed in Anatolia 256, 257

“Hymn of Independence,” sung by all Moslems, 238

Idol that was a fountain, 18

_Illeri_ (or Forwards), a newspaper in Constantinople, 229

Imbrie, American commercial attaché, to protect “concessions” and organise relief, 203 lives in railway salon, 203

Imperial Ottoman Bank now the Bank of Turkey, 204 a bureau of general information, 204 the Governor-General of, 238 Italian director, 237 reference to, 137, 231, 295

Incivility, does not “pay” in diplomacy, 27

India, 25, 58, 59 90, 116, 263

In-Enus, some impressions of the battle, 183, 197, 307

International Red Cross, 299

_Iron Duke_, H.M.S., outside Smyrna, 63

Islam, word means obedience, the reverse of Bolshevism, 90

Ispahan, roses of, 20

Israel has its place in Islam, 92

Ismet Pasha; his duel with Lord Curzon, 197, 299 understands Lord Curzon, 287 public taught to laugh at his pleasantries, 301 “official” treatment from Lord Curzon, 303 depressed by fears he has not done enough for Turkey, 305 dread of war, 305 a soldier, sent to fight a Bismarck, 305 does he, or his Turkish confrères, really trust Lord Curzon, 306, 307 left Constantinople with nothing, returned the head of the Army, 307 no chance of a fair fight with mature British diplomats, 307, 308 makes dangerous concession about Greek Patriarch, 309 works into night, 309 explains his point of view, 309-312 advantages of being deaf for diplomacy, 309 doing his best for peace, but cannot give up the Pact, 309, 310 all agreements with us are held up as “great concessions,” 310 we are offered “one room in our own house,” 310 always met with distrust, 310 chief obstacles to peace: Mosul, finance, judicial capitulations, reparations, 310 we cannot betray Anatolia, 312 toast of the British Empire and King George, 320 reference to, 137, 183, 194, 199, 298-300, 306

Italy, a bad example, 314

Italian, a wise proverb, 29 guide to Miss Ellison in Athens 36 _et seq._ his inborn courtesy, 37 like a Greek Patrician, 40 sings “La Tosca,” 53 the first at Smyrna; his advice, 67 the second at Smyrna; his advice, 67 the third at Smyrna; his advice, 68 reference to, 61

Izzet Pasha; his Cabinet, 193, 195

Jaffa, 182

“Jane Clegg,” acted by Sybil Thorndike, 28

Japan, 58

Jeanne d’Arc, story from her life, 180 _et seq._

Jerusalem held sacred by Turks, 250

Jews eager to replace Greeks, 161, 274, 275 beginning to “make their profit” out of simple Turks, 275

Johnson, Robert Underwood, formerly American Ambassador at Rome, 300

Judea, 250

Julius Cæsar, search for humour in, 124 compared to M. Kemal, 161

Kada-Keuey, 254

_Kadinlar Dunyassi_, a paper for women, 209

Kaiser, the, 118

Kara-Kuey, 88

Kara Kheuz, _i.e._, Punch-and-Judy show, at a wedding, 189

Karahissar, centre of opium trade, 112

Kassaba, terrible condition of, 75, 77, 102

Kemallidine Pasha, General, 279 learns the difference between an English lady and an English “temporary gentleman,” 280, 281

Kemal Pasha, Mustapha; the victory of his “rebels,” 27 when he “lifts his little finger,” 29 not a “rebel,” 91 seeks to free Islam from Byzantine heresies, 91 great importance of his choosing the right type of wife, 92 takes over house from Constantine, 94, 95 an American interviewer says he smokes “Players,” 98 women must take their place in life, 102 wisdom to prohibit alcohol, 113 inspired people with almost superstitious confidence, 128 and “the miracle happened,” 129 his “dancing” car, 137 on French Revolution, 153, 181 great civil organiser, 158 requires no “guard,” 159 his true greatness discussed, 159 _et seq._ inspired by his mother’s suffering, 160 difficulties with the Churches, 160 lenient towards Greeks, 161 hard-working and simple home-life, 161 _et seq._ compared to Julius Cæsar, 161 handsome and eloquent, 162, 163 his home, his mother, his opinions, and his life, 163 _et seq._ would be at home in any drawing-room, 164 views on Napoleon, 165, 166 secure in his people’s admiration, 167 disapproves of word “Kemalist” for a “national” movement, 167 not influenced by Bolshevists, 169 more balanced than some of the Deputies, 169 personality can dominate Assembly, 170 might be author’s brother 170 visit to peasants, 171, 172 not easy to understand, 172 an interview with, 174 _et seq._ the “Assembly” is not one man, 174 ultimate confidence in England, 174, 178 hopes that the Conference will bring peace, 175 sympathy with all Christians, 175, 176 views of Constantinople and on freedom of the Straits, 176 must have “national” frontiers, 176 attitude towards minorities, 176, 177 must refuse “privileged” on capitulations, 177 not only soldier, but statesman, 178 some account of his mother, 179 facts of his life, 180 _et seq._ disgusted by brutal methods of General Falkenhayn, 182 appointed Inspector of the East or High Functionary of the Eastern Villayets, 182 opinions and desire for reform of the harem, 185, 186 his own choice of a wife, 189-191 advocate of “sensible” dress for men and women, 185, 186 wedding-presents to his bride, 189, 190 educated in Rochester, 190 will sweep away harem and other Byzantine heresies, 190, 191 great faith in youth, 192 his task will get harder as country settles to reconstruction, 200 two hundred years ahead of some of his own Ministers, 200 a “tribute” applied from an ancient inscription, 210 supports the “Turc Odjagui,” 222, 223 visits the “Mosque,” with other Deputies, 223 against Byzantian heresies, 238 concerned for Christian minorities, 238 correspondence with the Pope, 243, 244 regrets division between Christian Churches, 244, 245 maintains that Turks have _always_ practised religious tolerance, 245 a real democrat in practice, a reformer loyal to Islam; faith in full liberty and in his people, 270, 271 driven to arms by Greek’s entry of Smyrna, 314 reference to, 30, 45, 46, 66, 74, 93, 100, 108, 115, 117, 119, 120, 125, 130, 134, 135, 149, 157, 195, 205, 207, 227, 232, 239, 308

Kerr, Philip, private secretary to Lloyd George, 128

Khadidja, poetess and public singer 190

Khalif, the present, 182 must guard the relics, 219 hereditary; the Pope, elected, 249 impressions of several Khalifs, 249, 250

Khandeke, a Circassian tribe, 153

Kiamil Pasha, Grand Vizier to Abdul Hamid, 23 and his daughter, 23-25, 238 his daughter spoken of as my Turkish sister, 120 visits bazaar, 126 her sister-in-law at Pera, 294, 295 teased for growing more advanced but preferring the old ways, 297

Kiazim Pasha, Minister of National Defence; his character, 199

Kipling, Rudyard, his cat, 18

Konia, chief city of Dancing Dervishes, 281

Koran, “an accursed book?” 22, its precepts, 91 written in Persian, 219 misinterpreted by Hodjas, 230

Krassine M., told of Turkish views on Soviet Government, 27

Kutahia, a dinner-service from, 167

Kurd, population of Mosul, 311

Kurdistan, 234

Lady of Paradise, Mahomet’s daughter, 190

Lamartine, 220

Lasz, the, the President’s guard, 163

Latifée Hanoum, the Pasha’s future wife, 186 educated at Chislehurst, 190

Lausanne, authorities there know nothing of life in Angora, 125 still talk of Turkey that is dead, 140, 160 what can Nationalists do there, 147 told the Assembly was corrupt, 157 ignorance, 168 views of the Delegates, 176 results of Conference, 177, 178 scorn for patriotism of the Turks, 184 duel between Lord Curzon and Ismet Pasha, 197 Halidé Hanoum elected Delegate, but too ill to go, 205 receives Halidé Hanoum’s report of Greek atrocities, 212 English Delegates’ foolish scorn of the Kurd, 234 Conference must produce peace, 287 both sides adopt the method of not listening, 290 will they ever listen to a woman? 290 under the flags of France, Turkey, and Japan, 298 a gay and busy scene, 298 hotel a babel from folk-songs of Anatolia to fox-trots and cocktails, 299 a host of “new” nationalities, all sighing for the (political) moon, 299 French Delegate bullied to bed, 299 first word of a “new” and independent Turkey, 299 can they ever understand? 299, 300 always called Turkey to order, 300 politics all day, 300 luxury for the Press, 300 weakness of journalists, 301-303 more work done than at Genoa, 300 fight out details and ignore important questions, and the Turkish point of view, 302 wasteful methods of official diplomacy, 304 the real problem of Lausanne, 305 too many Commissions, 306 haunted by memories of Angora, 306 all watch Venizelos, the bird of ill-omen, 307 the first woman diplomatist, 307 British are not so pro-Russian as they have to appear, 308 talks about the Greek Patriarch, 308, 309 Conference will not see what National Pact means to Turkey, 309, 310 everyone meets Turks with distrust, 310 chief obstacles to peace: Mosul, finance, judicial capitulations, reparations, 310 England and Turkey need each other, 312 Lausanne has _not_ failed, 312 may she learn from mistakes of Versailles, 319 reference to, 159, 174, 186, 208, 223, 228, 272, 313, 317, 318, 320

Law, Mr. Bonar, 141

League of Nations must be impartial and international, 313 _et seq._ unfortunately appears to be anti-Islam, 313 by allowing Greeks to enter Smyrna it drove M. Kemal to arms, 314 should consider the feelings of all nations, 314 report on harems entrusted to Roumanian poetess, not to Halidé Hanoum, 314, 315 listened to back-stair propaganda of American relief workers, 315 its own Press department distrusts Greek and Armenian propaganda, but sympathises with the Turk, 315 can only help Christians by putting a stop to pro-Christian propaganda, 316 what a really international League could do for Turkey, 316, 317 the only way is to put Turkey on Council of League, 317 reference to, 105, 112, 299

Lebouvier, M., Dutch _pasteur_, reports Greek atrocities, 26

Lenin, theories opposed to the Turkish, 150, 159

Life, a story from, 318

_Literary Digest_ quoted, 76

Lloyd George against Turks, 25 his “indiscretions” towards Ambassadors for Angora, 27 what Turkey owes to him, 32 and “our dear Christian brethren,” 38 hated by Greeks, 39 confused with King George, 86 is he not a democrat? 91 his puzzling inconsistency, 92 his policy not the policy of English people, 95 and _Les Misérables_, 127 why does this “democrat” hate Turks, 77, 128 the fallen angel, or modern Nero, 141, 142 says you must speak to Turks “with guns,” 169 “that” Lloyd George, 237 super-bogeyman of the Near East, 257, 258 badly advised, 287 his insults to Turkey not taken seriously, 314 reference to, 78, 101, 108

Loti, Pierre, his dream and interpretation of Turkey, 17 _et seq._ his stories, 18 his Melek and Zeyneb, 19 his “Désenchantés,” 19 steamer so-called, 17 _et seq._ sympathy of her captain, 17 _et seq._ and the Bazaar at Smyrna, 62 his Green Mosque, 278, 279

Lowther, Sir G., Ambassador at Constantinople, 24

Ludendorff, 182

Luggage-train, a painful journey, 89, 90

Lycée for Girls described, 217

MacClure, Mr., tells journalists what to say, 301-303

Mahmoud Bey, smiling aide-de-camp of M. Kemal, 163

Mahmoud Chefket Pasha, 182

Mahmoud Essad Bey, Minister of Economics, studied in Switzerland, 199

Mahmoud II., 289

Mahomet, Prophet of Islam, 22 and his daughter the “Lady of Paradise,” 190 a story with a meaning, 230 _See_ “Prophet of Islam”

Mohammed V., anecdote of, 23

Mallet, Sir Louis, Ambassador at Stamboul, 24

Malta, the home of exiles from Turkey, 29 _et seq._ as a prison, 31 Nationalism for (?), 31 Turks arrested and sent to, 31, 32 anecdotes of its shopkeepers, 34 _et seq._ means patriot, 44 reference to, 36, 132, 144, 148, 155, 157, 193-195, 227, 273

_Manchester Guardian_, unsound on Turkey, 231

Mangal, or charcoal, stove; its dangers and discomforts, 257

Manissa, first halt in Anatolia, 74, 77

Marie, author’s “Catholic” maid in Angora; her ideas about hot bottles, 134, 135

Marienbad, tales of Royalty at, 129, 130

Marriage and brides in Turkey, 187-191

Mary, Princess, 249

Masefield, John, memories of, at the Front, 208

Mecca, visited by “Black” Sultan, 227 _not_ honoured by Christians, 250, 253

Mehmet Emin Bey, of Adalia, leading poet of the Nationalists, 222

Melek, heroine of Pierre Loti, 19, 22 _et seq._

Melle Stanciof, first woman diplomatist, very able, 307

Mentone, 52

Merry de Val, Cardinal, 252

Mesopotamia, 116, 311

Metaxatis, Monseigneur, a Cretan, once Metropolitan of Constantinople, as Metelios IV., 108

Metelios IV., _see_ “Metaxatis”

Midhat, whose son was the pioneer parliament-maker, 229

Michelet, his “little Assembly,” 153

Milne, 227

Minaret, ascent of and impressions produced, 277

Minorities can only secure protection by loyalty, 316

Minorities Committee; their Norwegian head says Asiatics will never become Europeans, 316

Missionaries and treacherous propaganda, 240

Mihrinour and her husband in Rome, 251

Moudania, the most depressing town in Anatolia, 283 the historic house in which Peace was signed, 283 reference to, 259, 273, 318

Monsignor X. conducts author to Vatican, 242

Mont Pegasus, ascent of, 62

Morgenthau, Mr., an American who wants to make an ideal republic _á la_ Tammany on the Bosphorus, 76 says States are not disposed to lend, 178

_Morning Post_ quoted on interview with M. Kemal, 177

Moscow plans against India, 178

Mosul, its future, 177 never captured by British, but handed to them by the French, 310, 311 population, Kurd and Turkish, 311 admitted by Sykes-Picot agreement, was not part of Mesopotamia, 311 reference to, 224, 306, 317

“Mother in the Home, The,” an American tale translated by Halidé Hanoum, 207

Mouche, 182

Moudania Conference, 186, 197

Mouedine Pasha, General, who “taught” M. Kemal and Fethi Bey, 125, 130 his charming sons, 257, 258 start dangerous race between two yailis, 266, 267

Mougin, Colonel, earlier called the “French colonel”; his gallantry (?), 112 friendship with, 114 _et seq._ gives an excellent dinner on the train, 116, 117 his role in Angora, 119 his car very welcome, 127 his hospitality in Angora, 132 his Embassy, once the Station Hotel, 134 persists in doubt, 147 praise of Kemal’s army, 183, 225 represents French interests with skill and tact, 203 his awkward questions at dinner, 232 always “informs” his Government, 232 fears of responsibility for author’s life, 232 says only Turks can really protect Christian minorities, 237, 238 high praise of Refet Pasha, 288 reference to, 121, 123, 126, 131, 133, 234, 246, 247

Mouharrem, Persian ceremonial in memory of the martyr, Hussein, 250, 251

Mudros, the Armistice, 31 treachery of, 182, 193, 194

Mufidé Hanoum (Mme. Ferid Bey) second great woman-writer of “New” literature, 222

Mussolini, M., visits Lausanne, 308

Naim Bey, courteous hotel-keeper in Smyrna, 46 his pity for “poor Americans,” 47, 53 defies “law” for his guests, 48 guests from all countries, 49, 52, 53

Namik Kemal Bey, Turkish writer for the people, 220 died in exile for his ideals, 220, 221

Napoleon and M. Kemal, 165

Nasreddin Hodja, Turkish wit, his stories from, 33, 34, 267

National Pact discussed, 219-231 of capitulations, 230 a religion, copies in every home, 230, 231

Nationalist appeal for the first time adopted by Moslems, 93

Nationalist Literary Revival, brief history of, 218-223

Nationalist Turkey, ix., 19 result of Lloyd George’s policy, 32 misunderstood by British official, 54 a Nationalist meeting at Ouchak, 95 _et seq._ the Pact contains nothing unreasonable, 97 Nationalism, a religion, 125 fight for freedom single-handed, 154 what Nationalism means, 161 compared to Christianity, 168 National Pact, a new “decalogue,” 167 natural enthusiasm for new Turkey facing reconstruction, 172, 173 not the cat’s-paw of Bolshevism, 178 will not allow herself to be used against British influence in India, 178 the “Constitution” proclaimed, 182 founders need no advice from us, 201 does not look to France for help, 203 the pioneer worker, Halidé Hanoum, 207 much literature has been already written about, 217, 218 brief history of Nationalist Literary Revival, 218-223 “Story of Nationalism,” by Hussein Raghib, how it grew out of the _Turc Odjagui_, a club founded to protest against “Union and Progress,” 222 what was a “party” movement made National, 222 the army described, 224, 225 grows from 10,000 men to 400,000 men with 450 big guns, etc., 224 actual statistics and character of staff, 225 unwisely too proud to use propaganda, 226-228 discussion of the National Pact, 229-231

Nationalism, a religion, 230, 231 the “Hymn of Independence,” 238 will protect “loyal” minorities, 247 wants peace, not surrender, 247 her Constitution will _not_ “imitate” from England, 251 Turks beginning to be _themselves_, 263 still approached as we used to approach Abdul Hamid’s Turks, 304 no offence to British prestige in the National Pact, 305 their policy at Lausanne, 309-312 cannot be curbed by neutral zones, 320 must have honest peace, 320 not dead, but born again, 320 _See also_ “Turks”, “Turkey,” “Young Turks”,”

Nansen, Dr., always talking of “Greek” suffering, 212, 213

Naval man of the best type, but starched, 64 his refusal to give up the flag, 65, 66 off guard, 66

Nazoum, Dr., head of Army Medical Service; his hospitals, 216, 279, 281

Nelson, call to “Duty,” 64

Neutrality, cannot satisfy a country’s pride, 298 though in Switzerland it has “made history,” 299

New York, 18, 49 near hell, 19 and sky-scrapers, 228

Nicholson, Mr. Harold, British Delegate, 307, 309

Nightingale, Florence, part of the treasures England has for mankind, 118, 214

Nihat Réchad, Dr., talk with his sister, 279

Nonconformity, foe of the Turks, 78

Noury, Mme., who cooks the dinner, 232

Nourredine Pasha, 279 his father-in-law, the Dervish, 281 does _not_ hate England, 282

“Nouveau Touron,” by Halidé Hanoum, 222

Oeillet supplies cigarettes, 232

Officer; the Turkish officer detailed to conduct author to Angora, 71 _et seq._ his helpfulness, 80, 88 reference to, 105, 109, 119, 121

Official dignity, its dangers in dealing with Young Turkey, 64, 65

Official ignorance of Nationalist Turks, 54 care for English women, 54 _et seq._

Old maids, none in Turkey, 189

Oriental landscapes, glorious colours, 145, 223 music, its peculiar charm, 44, 45, 216, 217 by a Christian choir, 236-238

Orientals, broad-minded, 19 the most criminal respect their mothers, 180 our brothers, 59

Osman, 140, 156 his tomb, 278

Osman Noury Bey, of the “Ottoman Bank,” 137, 138

Osman Nyzami Pasha represents Constantinople in Rome, 250 horror expressed at the Persian Mouharrem, 250, 251 claim for Turkey to be judged by the gods she has created; finer than the Olympians or the Puritan Deity, 265

Osmanli, 308

Ottoman “Christian” property freed from sequestration, 313

Ottoman Commission, 25

Ottoman Empire, large slices relinquished, 176

Ottoman Government, the old corrupt, 148

Ottoman Greeks, Greece has no room for, 36

Ottoman Society, 24

Ouchak, hospitality of the governor, 93 a public meeting at, 94 _et seq._ reference to, 88, 102

Oxford, on Greece 41 forgets the immorality of Olympus, 265 reference to, 71, 77

Palestine, 116, 224

Pan-Islam rising to be feared, 93

Papas Eftim Effendi; his proposal about the Orthodox Church, 308

Paris, 18, 157

Parliaments before the Assembly, 229

Parthenon, 63

Patriarch, the Greek; his disloyalty, 108, 160, 161, 213 discussed at Lausanne, 308, 309

Pellé, General and Madame, invited author to Christmas lunch, 293

Pera always disliked by author; always feels someone is going to stab her in the back, 294, 295 reference to, 23

Pericles, boast for his own epitaph, 39-41

Peroxide and henna, less effective than a little hard work, 228

Persia, 25, 59, 116

Persian Ambassador, now left, 203

Persian literature, its influence on the Turkish, 219

Persians, 222

_Pierre Loti_, the steamer, 34, 60

Pirus, 36-38

Pius X., portrait of, 242 killed by strain of war, 244

Pius XI., Pope, audience with, 239 _et seq._ friendship for Anatolia, 239 a father’s heart on Peter’s throne, 240 debt to Turkey for tolerance and responsibility towards Christian peoples, 241 interested in personality of the Pasha, 241, 243, 244 speaks many languages, 242 his robes and appearance, 243 his deep yearning for peace, 244, 247 messages to Christians, and Turks in Anatolia, 247

Plato’s Republic and Bolshevism, 41, 52

Poincaré, M., visits Lausanne, 308

Pompeii, and how its houses were warmed, 226

Pope, elected; the Khalif, hereditary, 249

Power of the Press, a farce, 301

Price, Ward, will not ask for interview, 301

Prince Said Halim, late Grand Vizier, 35

Prophet of Islam, the; his wedding-presents to his bride, 189

Prussianism in England, 284

Rauf Bey, Prime Minister without portfolio, 192 his life, character, and opinions, 193-195 admired by England, 194, 195 reforms in education, 194, 195 says Turkey wants to please Christians, 245 reference to, 29, 35, 132, 133, 197

Réchad, Dr., on evening-dress, 33

Red Cross should work with Red Crescent, 264

“Red” Sultan, the, 227

Refet Pasha, well-deserved praise from General Harrington, 286-288 also from Colonel Mougin, 288 speaks warmly of Colonel and Mrs. Samson, 288 did much pioneer work, 288 praise of English, 289 soldiers do _not_ love war, 289 praise of the Khalif, 289 commanding in the south, 224

Regent’s Park, animals in, are fed like journalists, 301

Religion, a living force in the East, 106

Reparations, only asking four milliard gold francs, 310

Revolution, the, 23

Rhadyah, woman traveller and lecturer, 190

Rhodes, 100

Rhondda Valley compared with Angora, 132

Riza Nour, not really insolent, 302 no wonder he is impatient with wasteful methods of official diplomacy, 304 reference to, 299, 305

Rochefort and Pierre Loti, 18

Rochester, where author went to school, 190

Roget, his “Thesaurus” and a harem, 26

“Rose in the Bud,” tune to which a Turkish poem “goes perfectly,” 208, 209

Rosebery, Lord, 165

Roufy Bey, Mme., at the hospital in Broussa, 282

Roumanian poetess sent to report on harems, 314

Roumelia, 153, 164, 199

Ruchène Echref, Mme., and her husband, neighbours of M. Kemal, tell of his future wife, 186

Russia must not be sacrificed? 24 the destitute aristocracy, 30 reference to, 67, 90, 152, 162, 169, 203, 306

Russian Christians, 245

Sakharia, extreme point reached by Greeks, 130 and Austerlitz, 166 fifteen days’ Battle of, 183, 199

Salihli, town of four houses, 77

Salonika is _not_ the gate of Christendom, 93, 195

Samsoun, 183

San Remo, 52

Sarojini Naidu, a poem by, quoted in full, 208, 209

Savoy, the, 32

Schinassi Effendi studies culture in France, 220 re-models Turkish language, 220, 221

Scotch calmness hides feeling, 54

Sea of Marmora, 176

Sefa Bey, Minister of Education, 198

Seldjoucide, 140, 308

Selim, first keeper of the Holy Relics, 219

_Senegal_, H.M.S., blown to pieces by mine, 65

Senegali, 114

Sèvres, Treaty of, and why Turkey signed, 26 French repentance, 204 reference to, 128

Seyed Hussein of the Khaliphat Delegation insolently snubbed by quotation from Lord Bryce, 262, 263

Shakespeare, his humour, 124 quoted, 301

Silver threads for good luck, 188

Sloane Square Station, a meeting outside, 220

Smyrna, crime of sending Greeks to, x occupied, 26, 31 impressions of, 43 _et seq._ its hotels, 46 _et seq._ no longer the alien’s paradise, 51 the quay, 54, 63 among the ruins of, 60 _et seq._ remains of Frank Street, 62 details of fire, 62 _et seq._ anecdote of the Custom House, 64, 65 last words from, 67-70 certainly _not_ burnt by Turks, 212 has charm of Sodom and Gomorrah, 226 reference to, 86, 88, 102, 115, 121, 123, 132, 139, 153, 194, 224, 274, 313

Socrates, 41

Sœur Julie, 95

Sofia, 181, 182, 195

Sophocles, 41

Sons of Palestine at Lausanne, 299

South American, the, one of guests at hotel in Smyrna, 48, 52, final advice and effort, 68, 69

Soviet helpful to Turkey, 90 Embassy and Camerad Areloff, 202

Spaniard at Smyrna; his advice, 67

Spartelli Library in Smyrna, 53

St. Sophia, Church of, cannot be restored to any _one_ sect of Christians, 244, 245

Stamboul, 24, 206

Stan-Harding, Mrs., on the “best people” in Russia, 35

Stars and Stripes, not the Union Jack, 34

Steeg, M. Louis, says the author “will never die,” 232 Governor-General of Ottoman Bank, 238

“Story of Nationalism,” by Hussein Raghib, 222

Suffragettes chained to grille at Westminster, 249, 250

Suliman, the Magnificent, 219

Sultan Ahmed Khan, Ambassador from Afghanistan, difficult relations, 202, 203

Sultan Mahmoud, 219

Sunset reveals God’s world in contrast to man’s, 62

Syrenaique, 182

Syria, 114, 115, 182, 211, 294, 318

Syrians at Lausanne, 299

Sykes-Picot agreement on Mesopotamia, 311

Tagore, a delight to talk with, 59

Taine, M. Henri, on the English quoted, 214

Talaat Pasha, 208, 209

_Tanine_, newspaper of Angora, 142, 208

Tchan-Kaya, home of M. Kemal, a few miles out of Angora, 163, 186, 197

Tcharhaff, Turkish head-dress, 31

Teheran, 62, 125, 130

Tewfik Rushi Bey says “easy divorce” makes happy marriages, 187 his copy of the Pact, 230, 231, 305

“Thesaurus,” by Roget, and a harem, 26

Thorndike, Sybil, in “Jane Clegg,” 28

Thrace, her boundaries, 177 tackled by Rafet Pasha, 288, 309

Timbuctoo, 18

_Times_, the, suppresses reports of Greek atrocities, 26

Timourlin, his mountain-tomb, 140

Timur, his ideas of pleasure, 33

Tokatlian’s Hotel in Constantinople, 285

Tokatlian’s Restaurant, 267

Town-planning unknown in Turkey, 62

Townshend, General, and the Armistice, 193

Tunnel, a journey through, 86

_Turc Odjagui_, a club founded to protest against “Union and Progress,” from which sprang Nationalism, 222

Turkey, meaning of word to different peoples, 20 devotion to England, 23, 24 the “philosophy” of her people, 33, 34 few Turks now speak English, 43 the “dead” Turkey still talked of in Lausanne, 140 here beginneth the New Turkey democrat of democracies, 140 English trade unionism not wanted, 157 birth of New Turkey, 160 _et seq._ risks of friendship with, 25 crushed and humiliated at Sèvres, 26 her real crime is to have kept Constantinople, 31 gives fair exchange, 36 no idea of town-planning, 62 an “enemy” country of dear friends, 70 strike her and all Islam will rise, 93 social antipodes of England, 100 desire to join Opium Convention, 112 must have national frontiers, 176 must have her place in future of civilisation, 177 harem life and tales of weddings, 184-191 the absentee bridegroom, 188 no “old maids,” 189 the famous women of, 190 use and abuse of foreign schools, 195 great change in conditions of life, 199, 200 Europe cannot grasp meaning of Turkish civilisation, 206 notes on early literature, 219, 220 abstract character of Turkish love-poetry, 219 true head of Islam, 239 can we trust the West? 240 insulted by Christendom, 240 her many services to the Vatican, 241 learnt French culture from Jesuit fathers, 241 Allah compared with Jehovah, 265 justice does _not_ depend on cash, 269, 270 the “Commandments” have no mystery, 270 real democracy, because Head of State is elected by, and responsible to, the people, 270 non-progressive centuries due to influence of Hodjas, 271 the Islamic atmosphere of Broussa, 276 _et seq._ Mosques always open for prayer, in contrast to cathedral at Geneva, 278, 279 her heart and spirit is now in Angora, 295, 296 her first appearance in “big” diplomacy, 299 charged with arrogance at Lausanne, 300 complains that her point of view is ignored, 302 still treated at Lausanne like old Turkey, 304 tolerance may be weakness, 308, 309 has given three years proof of power to organise, 310 and the League of Nations, 313 _et seq._ never interfered with British property during the war, but we have confiscated her property, 313 hope for the future, 318-320 badly beaten but secured victory over Greeks, 319

Turkish courtesy has its inconvenience, 88 religion contrary to Bolshevism, 90 food simple, but too fattening, 95, 113 Anglo-Turkish alliance means peace for the world, 312 sister, _see_ “Kiamil Pasha”

“Turkish Woman’s Impressions in Europe,” 124

Turks can only be dealt with by complete trust, 56, 66, 69, 72 always respect women, 57 anecdote of their tenderness to all animals, 60, 61 anecdote of rather inconvenient faith in Allah, 61 anecdote of their proverbial carelessness about official details, 65 moderation in revenge, 74, 75 daily prayer, 83 kindness to enemy people, 84 their soldiers, 84 will not take money, 84 need very little food, 86 their high code of honour, 86 further example of their philosophy, 86 fearless riders, 88 every man equal before the law, 91 tolerance of all religions, 92, 175, 176 danger of our calling them “niggers” or “natives” in Egypt, 92, 93 no longer trust the West, 92 tale of a woman patriot, 99 bought arms from England and other countries, 102 their almost embarrassing courtesy, 138, 142, 143 want an Asiatic capital, 149 their democracy not Socialism, 149, 150 all desire peace, but cannot accept humiliation, 175 if they appear arrogant _are_ moderate, 184 illustrations of democracy at weddings, 188, 189 important to teach Nationalism to children, 194, 195 an extreme example of fine hospitality, 103 fit because they don’t drink, 113 beginning to lose faith in British honour, 116 their new sense of confidence as citizens of a Free State, 118, 119 dislike Germans, 125 their almost embarrassing courtesy, 138, 139 always merciful to their beasts, 139, 171 a brilliant woman medical student, 211 friendly rivalry with Christians in schools, 217 system of education too exact a copy of the French, 218 let us blazon their hospitality, 228 their energy produces more blonde women, 228 the only race who can really protect Christian minorities, 237, 238 always tolerant alike to Catholics and Jews, 241, 245 honour the Christian prophets and hold Jerusalem a sacred city, 250 claim that they would guard Jerusalem and the Holy Tomb more reverently than the Jews, 252, 253 their friendship depends on the personal element, 260 not stubborn or unreasonable, 262 anecdote of offensive arrogance from a judge towards a Turk, 262, 263 spoilt by flattery in Europe and a taste of Western luxury, 264 should keep their religion and their civilisation, 264, 265 deep respect for maternity, 266 resignation tends to stagnate, 266 clean bodies, if dirty clothes and houses, 269 the Koran will not permit us to drown kittens, 269 Asia will not deny justice to Turks, 294, 295 asked to exempt Christians from military service, 310 offered back “one room in their own house” as a great “concession,” 310 a proud race who cannot forget even what they forgive, 314 sympathy from Press Department of the League, 315 foolishly too proud to use propaganda or answer their detractors, 316 refuse to support their claims by statistics, 316 will never become European, 316 hope they will trust the imperfect League, 317 must have Constantinople, 320 _See_ “Young Turks”

Turner and Pierre Loti, 20 could not paint Eastern sunset, 297

Trécroupis, General; his captivity at Eski-Chéir, 108 surrendered to Turkish lieutenant, 129 his revolver as a wedding-present, 180

Tripolitain War, 182

Trotsky, theories and ideas opposed to the Turkish, 150

Tyrell, Sir Wm., “Chief of the Underlings,” Irish Head of British Foreign Office, 307

Union Jack sought in vain, 34 _et seq._, 39, 65, 66 last sight of, 69

Vakit, newspaper of Angora, 142

Valetta, in Malta, 31

“Vanity Fair,” 30

Vatican ceremonials and library, 240-242

Vely Nedjdat Bey, author’s guide in Angora, 35, 215

Venizelos, his magic name, 27 his responsibility, 77 his character, 107, 108 bird of ill-omen, 307 reference to, 39, 40, 42, 95

Versailles, a lesson for Lausanne, 319 which of the Big Four faced _real_ problems, 319 their pestilent neutrality and government by committees, 319

Von Bieberstein, Baron Marshall, rebuked by Joseph Choate, 301, 302

War means—“and he never returned,” 20 has not yet come, 55

Waterloo, 30

Wells, H. G., on our love for those we have wronged, 35

Westminster, 21

Whahid Eddin, called the Khalif, 219

Wilson, General, a fine officer, 286

Wilson, President; his ideals derided, 91, 162, 262

Wintringham, Mrs.; effect on other women of her presence in Parliament, 291

Women may be protected away from their duty, 29 _et seq._ and cows, 29 a great nuisance when they are brave, 54 _et seq._ at a grave disadvantage as journalists, 58 their seclusion comes from Byzantium, not from the Koran, 92 they “count” in the East; their progress compared with the same in England, 92, 205 leave much housework to men, 100 work in the war, 102 must remain anonymous, 111 Turkish women on English ballrooms, 111 never recognised by Government or by the Press, 115, 116 not now confined to harem by advanced Turks, 138 their freedom imperfect in England, 147 their real freedom desired by the enlightened, 157 the author and M. Kemal discuss the harem, 184-186 lectures and friendships and weddings, 187-191 women’s progress in Turkey started on right lines, 185 should not compete, but co-operate, with men, 185 their ways in Turkey, 189 harem in a Byzantine heresy, 190 famous Turkish women who spoke or sang in public, 190 gained much from American colleges, 204 their freedom a burning question in Turkey, 209 their legal status, 209, 210 excellent women’s papers, 209 carried forward one hundred years by work for the Red Crescent in the Balkan Wars, 210 may probably retain the veil for its Nationalist significance, 210 brilliant students, 211 only a few feminine “stars” at present, 211 visit to a Lycée for Girls, 216, 217 their schools and the University in Constantinople, 217 Soubhi, an eloquent opponent of the harem, 233, 234 manifold injustice at the hands of the Puritans, who dare to scorn the unmarried mother, 265, 266 all Turks respect maternity, 266 their “unskilled” labour expensive, 275 never listened to by statesmen, 290 no place in Embassies, 291 more respected by French statesmen than English, 291 their unpaid and unrecognised service is gratefully received, 292 men more “natural” with Frenchwomen than English, 292, 293

Yahia Kemal, a poet who might do even finer work, 222

Yaili, or native carriage, dangerous driving, 254 _et seq._

Yemen, exiles to, 23

_Yeni Gun_, newspaper in Angora 143

Younous Nadi Bey, who “ought to be shot,” editor of _Yeni Gun_, 143 a visit to his office and printing works, 144 his varying news of Lausanne, 147

Young Turks not to blame for joining Germany, 25 do not understand official diplomacy, 64, 65 tremendous energy of the young nation-makers, 147 universal admiration for Halidé Hanoum, 208 hard work in “deposing” Sultans, 227

Youssouf Kemal Bey, Ambassador from Angora, 27

Youssouff Zeddine, Prince, listens to stories of England, 249, 250 his courage and his suicide, 250

Zakaroff, his gold, 42

Zeyneb, (i), beautiful lady-professor at Bagdad, 190

Zeyneb (ii), heroine of Pierre Loti, 19, 22 _et seq._

Zeyneb (iii), says no fear of theft at weddings in Turkey, 188 views on England and Russia, 220, 221 modest about using her own language, 233 on Moslem Commandments, 270

Zia Bey, chief of Police in Smyrna, 46 his novels and his business methods, 46, 47

Zia Guenk Alp, Professor of Sociology, immense influence on “New” literature, 221, 222

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● Transcriber’s Notes: ○ In the List of Illustrations, the illustration “Burnt Quarter in the…” shows it facing page 48. It actually is page 240. Clicking on the link will take you to the correct place. ○ The illustration that is shown as facing page 64 (“Turkey for the Turks, indeed!” was not included in this edition of the book. ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected. ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected. ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book. ○ Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_).