CHAPTER XX

A DIARY OF QUIET DAYS, AUTUMN OF 1916

_September 3_: Judge Elbert H. Gary has just been in Peking for ten days with Mrs. Gary and a small party. I took them to call on President Li who is now living in a private residence with extensive rockeries and gardens, in the East City. We threaded our way to a central pavilion where the President received us. He talked amiably about his desire to see the great resources of China developed with American coöperation. In the evening I gave a dinner to Judge Gary and the new Ministers of Finance and Communications. Charles A. Coolidge, the Boston architect, was also present. On the following day I arranged for the American guests to see the Winter Palace; Mr. Coolidge afterward said to me that the trip through the palace grounds had been the most interesting experience of his life from the point of view of architectural beauty. Someone with Judge Gary told me that every lunch, afternoon reception, and dinner engagement, for the entire stay in Japan, was already arranged for, together with many engagements for breakfast; adding: "The Japanese certainly know a great man when they see him, more than the Chinese." As a matter of fact, the Chinese are so unartificial that they do not think of organizing their hospitality to any distinguished guest. What they do is quite spontaneous; they are truly hospitable, but they do not understand the first elements of the art of advertising.

_September 9_: I took a trip to Dajessu with the Austrian minister. This temple lies about twelve miles beyond the summer palace. We walked part of the way; a Chinese fell in with us, and, as is customary, opened conversation. Without seeming unduly inquisitive he elicited information about the size of our families, our age, income, and the cost of our clothing, the material of which he greatly admired. When the Austrian minister told him that he had about four hundred men under him, our companion looked rather dubious, and finally asked: "Why, then, if you have so many attendants, are you walking?" The explanation that we preferred to walk did not seem to remove his doubts. He told us in turn all the details of his family and business affairs.

We spent the week-end at the beautiful temple, from which we took walks to the surrounding mountainside. A deserted temple on a high hill overlooking the valley is picturesque as any castle on the Rhine. We ascended to the summer residence of Mr. Hsu Un-yuen, a temple perched on a precipitous spur of the main mountain range. The temple had evidently been erected originally for a semi-residential purpose, though it was in a quite inaccessible place, where neither worshippers nor vacationists would ordinarily have sought it out. We found Mr. Hsu and his wife enjoying the magnificent view from a terrace opening out from the living apartments.

_September 13_: I gave a dinner to Mr. C.T. Wang, the vice-president of the senate, and a few representative members of parliament. We engaged in a general after-dinner discussion of politics. Most of the men present were Progressives. They argued volubly. The arguments and illustrations were such as one would hear in a Western country. I missed, as usual, a thorough discussion of underlying facts, traditions, and practices of Chinese life, out of which institutions should develop. I mentioned this; Mr. Wang said that they needed a guiding principle of organization, which they must get from the experience of constitutional countries. The question uppermost was the proposed election of provincial governors by the people of the respective provinces, instead of their appointment by the Central Government. Most of those present considered this change necessary, as through union and mutual support the appointive military governors could exercise great power and defeat the aims of Parliament.

_September 14_: Failing to get financial assistance from America, the Chinese have been considering Japanese offers of loans. Dr. Chen Chin-tao, forced by the situation and the importunities of the ministers, who need money, has signed a preliminary agreement for a loan of eighty million yen, on which an advance of five million yen is to be paid over immediately.

_September 18_: The House of Representatives to-day in secret session discussed the Japanese loan. I am informed that it was strongly attacked on the ground that certain mines in Hunan Province had been pledged to secure the advance. The Minister of Finance was not present, the vice-minister appearing to answer questions. The minister was violently condemned for signing the preliminary agreement without the consent of parliament. The argument was made that it related to an advance, but not to the main loan itself. That argument was not considered valid.

_September 19_: Negotiations were concluded with the Minister of Communications for a satisfactory adjustment of the American railway contract. Most of the proposals made were accepted, so that the American corporation ought certainly to be thoroughly well satisfied, considering all the changes and difficulties that have occurred since the original contract was made. That of the 17th May was allowed to stand, the changes being introduced by way of annexes. After the Chinese have thus gone to the limit of making the undertaking attractive to Americans, it is to be hoped that there will be no further delay; that, at least, some important constructive work will be done by Americans.

_September 21_: We welcomed a little son to-day in the family. I do not know that any children were born to any American minister in Peking before our little daughter Pauline came, in February, 1915. The two little ones were born into a strange world in which parents may well fear for the health of their children, because of frequent epidemics. Still, aside from such visitations, the Peking climate seems to be most favourable to children; they thrive and grow apace. Claire, the eldest daughter, aside from a terrible attack of appendicitis in which Dr. M.A. Stewart, of the Navy, saved her life, has been the very spirit of health. The faithful Chinese servants surround the children with every care.

_October 3_: I gave a men's dinner, attended by the ministers of Portugal, Russia, and Japan, and by Mr. Obata, the Japanese counsellor; Count Martel, the French first secretary; Mr. Aglen, Inspector-General of Customs; Mr. Alston, the British counsellor; Mr. Herrera de Huerta, formerly Mexican Chargé; Mr. Mitrophanow, of the Russian Legation; Doctor Willoughby, Doctor McElroy of Princeton, and other guests. It was really a dinner of welcome to the new Japanese minister, Baron Hayashi, who has recently arrived to take the place of Mr. Hioki. It was probably thought better to displace the minister upon whom had fallen the disagreeable duty of forcing through the Twenty-one Demands of 1915. Baron Hayashi, who had been ambassador in Italy, brings a long diplomatic experience and very careful methods. He is very silent, speaks little except when few or only one other person are present. In a larger company or at a meeting, he gives the impression of detachment and deep reflection. In social intercourse he is more retiring than his predecessor. He impresses me as a thoughtful, fair-minded man.

_October 4_: I am told that a guest at last night's dinner, a visitor from a distant country, complained because he had not been ranked with the ministers. As I had no information, nor have it now, that he was entitled to such ranking, I shall not worry. This is the first instance of any dissatisfaction with the seating. My predecessor related to me that a secretary of the British Legation once took his sudden departure before dinner for this reason. I have not always closely adhered to rank in seating, particularly at dinners where there are Chinese, in order to avoid a grouping which should make conversation impossible; but in such cases, of course, I always speak to whichever guest is slightly prejudiced by the arrangement and explain the reason to him. I have never noticed the least sign of displeasure. At a very formal dinner, it is of course always safer to follow rank and let the conversation take care of itself. Any enjoyment people get out of such a dinner they set down as pure profit, anyhow.

_October 7_: Ambassador and Mrs. Guthrie arrived to-day. They will be our guests for several weeks. Mr. Guthrie has not been very well, so has come for a rest. We spent the day together, talking over Chinese and Japanese affairs and relations. We agree on most points.

In the evening we dined at the officers' mess, after which there was dancing. Mrs. Ollie James and Mrs. Hall of Washington came with the Guthries. They were at the dinner, at which great cheer prevailed. Colonel Neville, the new commandant of the marines, radiates good fellowship. He is sociable, efficient, and ready to coöperate in all good causes. His officers and men seem to revere him, and a very fine spirit reigns in the marine compound.

_October 11_: I presented Ambassador Guthrie to the President, who had invited us for luncheon. We were only six at the table. Mr. Quo Tai-chi, the youthful English-speaking secretary of the President, interpreted. The President had many questions to ask about Japan. Then, he spoke quite hopefully about the outlook in China. Financial difficulties will be overcome through coöperation of parliament and the cabinet, so that the Government may count on popular consent to an increase in taxes.

President Li now occupies the palace where Yuan Shih-kai had lived. We met in a small apartment in the building constructed for the Empress Dowager, which was tastefully furnished in the best Chinese style.

_October 13_: The dinner season has fully set in. There are dinners every night, and will be, throughout the winter. This evening we entertained for the Guthries, having Prince Koudacheff, Baron Hayashi, and the wives of the Russian and Danish ministers, who are themselves absent.

_October 23_: The Political Science Association met at my house. The Minister for Foreign Affairs presided. Doctor W.W. Willoughby and Senator Yen Fu, the noted scholar, read papers. Over a hundred men were in attendance--the cream of the Western-educated officials, as well as European and American members.

_October 29_: The Guthries left yesterday. To-day arrived General and Mrs. Liggett, who will be our guests for a few days. General Liggett is tall and impressive-looking. We had a long initial conversation about the effects of the war in the Far East. The Philippines are beginning to be prosperous on account of the war demand for their products.

_October 31_: I presented General Liggett to President Li. In a long conversation the President was frank in his statement concerning the international difficulties of China. He expressed himself in strong terms as desirous of close coöperation with America. I gathered that he feared that certain foreign influences might stir up trouble between the parliament and the Government, and otherwise seek to cause embarrassment.

_November 3_: I went with a small party to the mountain temple Djetaissu. Mrs. Chadbourne, the sister of my friend Mr. Charles R. Crane; Miss Ellen Lamotte the writer; Mr. and Mrs. Burns of Shanghai; and Mr. Charles Stevenson Smith, of the Associated Press, took this excursion riding on donkeys, with many spills as the animals slipped on the rocky road. The temple is near the top, commanding a magnificent view of the plains and of the higher mountains farther inland. It rises tier above tier, its platforms shaded by huge trees, with enchanting vistas of architecture and a broad sweep of view in all directions.

_November 9_: The Continental Commercial Bank Loan is announced. I am happy that this result has been achieved. An advance of only $5,000,000 will be made, but even that small sum will be an important aid to the Chinese Government. The fact that a big Western financial institution has taken up relations with China is promising. What foreign banking there is in New York is tangled up with European interests, follows the lead of London, and has not manifested much readiness to exert itself for the development of American interests abroad.

_November 10_: I attended the balloting for the election of the Vice-President of the Republic, at a joint session of the two houses of parliament. While no speeches were made, with the exception of brief discussion on points of order, yet it was of interest to see the general aspect of parliament. The procedure, certainly, was business-like. Balloting was by written and signed vote; after each ballot, the individual votes are read off from the tribune. I had the impression that a true election was going on. General Feng Kuo-chang, the Military Governor of Kiangsu, had the lead from the start, which was gradually increased by the balloting until finally he got the necessary majority. I could not stay until the result was announced, when there was a demonstration to honour the nominee. But I saw before me a body which had evidently mastered the procedure of parliamentary action, so that things were done with a smoothness and ease which implied long experience. Many people witnessed the election, among them several of my colleagues. I had a brief conversation with Mr. C.T. Wang, who was hopeful that, now the Vice-Presidential succession was settled legally and peacefully, the future of the Republic was assured.

General Feng has occupied a pivotal position at his post at Nanking. He is shrewd and clever. Like a boy standing over the centre of a seesaw, he used his weight to balance either side according as the pendulum movement required. He was at first believed to have given Yuan Shih-kai encouragement to be emperor, but when asked to express himself, had allowed the report that he was neutral to gain currency; then, as the opposition gained strength, he added his weight with gradually increasing force to its side, although never at any stage coming out with positive statements. His selection was an attempt to form a compromise between the militarist and the progressive parties.

_November 10_: I took a long excursion with Prince Koudacheff. We rode to the foothills by automobile, then climbed to the top of a lofty range back of his temple, where one can promenade for six or eight miles along the crest of the ridge with glorious views of mountain country on either side.

_November 15_: I had a long conversation with Baron Hayashi to-day.

_November 20_: Admiral and Mrs. Winterhalter arrived for a few days' visit. The Admiral is tall, gray-haired, strong-featured, of energetic movements. He has always manifested a deep interest in what is going on in China; we sat down for a long talk immediately after his arrival.

_November 22_: I presented the Admiral to President Li and we had a pleasant conversation, although the President was not quite so expansive and confidential as during my last call. As we made the rounds of calls on the cabinet ministers, I took the conversation beyond the ordinary civilities, so as to give the visitor an opportunity of getting more insight into the affairs now engaging our attention; also, to use this valuable time for an exchange of ideas with the Chinese leaders.

_November 25_: The French are protesting against the Continental Commercial Bank Loan, in so far as the security is concerned. The security of the tobacco and wine tax had been assigned to some previous French loans. I saw Doctor Chen, and Count Martel called on me. I take the position that as the French loan--which is small in amount and will require only a very minor portion of the proceeds of the tax--remains entitled to be the first lien, the French interests are in no way prejudiced. I imagine what they really object to is the eventual appointment of an American auditor or co-inspector for this revenue. As this, however, would still strengthen the security for their loan, I do not see that they have any reason for complaint. The representative of the French bank which is interested, saw me and made a tentative suggestion that if advisorships were established, the French might take the wine tax, and the Americans the tobacco tax. I feel, however, that the hands of the Chinese were perfectly free when the loan was made; there can be no objection, except on the supposition that whenever the Chinese do business, no matter how small, with respect to any subject matter, they impliedly give a lien on all future dealings.

_December 4_: I called on Doctor Morrison to take a look at his library. This unusual collection contains about twenty thousand books in European languages, dealing with China. The rare editions of early works are almost completely represented. Doctor Morrison, who lives in a Chinese-style house, has built a fireproof building for his books. He has devoted the last fifteen years to getting them together, and I believe has spent the larger part of his income on them. Recently he married a lady who had been for a while his secretary. They now have a little boy. I am told that his marriage and fatherhood have greatly augmented Doctor Morrison's standing and influence among the Chinese. A bachelor does not fit into their scheme of life. We repaired to his study, and for a long time were discussing affairs. We spoke particularly about the railway situation and the fact that construction on all the lines contracted for has practically been stopped. This is an enormous disadvantage to the Chinese. They have to pay heavy interest charges on the initial loans, for which there is as yet no income-paying property to show, but only surveys and partial construction. We agreed that the Four-Power bankers, for instance, have a very weak case if China should decide to cancel their contract for non-performance, as money to continue the building is not forthcoming. On the British concession of the Pukow-Singyang Railway, on which virtually no work has yet been done, the Government nevertheless has to pay interest on a million dollars of capital that has been advanced.

_December 7_: I visited Prince Koudacheff, the Russian minister. I jokingly asked him whether he found that the Chinese thought of the Russians as half-Asiatic, therefore as brothers. "No," he replied; "they count us with you and with the other Europeans, as a scourge and pestilence." In this conversation the Prince uttered a prophecy. "As a result of this war," he said, "the empire will be abolished in Germany."

(Neither of us at this time dreamed of the enormous subversions and convulsions which were soon to take place in Russia.)

_December 8_: I called on President Li in order to present a personal letter from President Wilson, in which the latter sends his good wishes. We discussed the American loan policy. The President, like other Chinese, finds it difficult to understand why America, with her great capital strength and industrial development, is so slow in taking advantage of opportunities for investment and development in China. The President said: "Americans love pioneering. In China there is pioneering to do, with the added advantage of having a ready labour supply and local capital, which may be enlisted. Why are they so slow to come in?" I agree with him that it is difficult to understand.

_December 16_: Mr. Victor Murdock is in Peking, bringing a breeze of American good-fellowship, and a vision unobstructed by theories. He finds China interesting, but, I fear, he will suffer the usual disability of the passing visitor, that is, he will see the unfavourable aspects of Chinese life and will not stay long enough to appreciate the deeper virtues.

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This diary account of some of the happenings during the fall of 1916 contains nothing of the daily work of conferences, discussions, interviews, dictations dealing with the innumerable problems that come up from the consulates, or that arise in the capital directly, or referring to general policies which are hammered out and formed for action.

A great part of the work of a legation is concerned with foreseeing trouble and trying to avoid it. Such work usually does not appear at all in the record. In a country where conditions are complicated as they are in China, where there is such a crisscrossing of influences, it is easy to make a mistake if constant care be not exercised to keep informed of every detail and to head off trouble.