CHAPTER VI.
PROGRESS AND COMPLETION OF THE WORKS IN THE YEAR 1810.
[Sidenote: 1810, January.]
The shipping establishment connected with the Bell Rock service during the winter of 1809 and 1810, consisted only of the Pharos Floating-light and Sir Joseph Banks Tender; the other vessels being laid up in ordinary. The latter vessel was appointed to carry artificers to the Rock at spring-tides, for the inspection of the works, and to repair any small damage that might occur at the Beacon-house and Railways. She also supplied the Floating-light with provisions and necessaries, and changed the crew in their respective turns of leave on shore. The landing-master, Captain Wilson, was the appointed commander of this vessel; but as he and part of his crew were occupied constantly at the Rock during the building-season, they were occasionally relieved from the unpleasant duty of the Pharos, by such of the officers and seamen belonging to the other ships in the Light-house service, as were kept in pay during the winter months.
[Sidenote: Friday 5th.]
[Sidenote: The Tender visits the Floating-light and Bell Rock.]
Five artificers from the work-yard at Arbroath were allotted for visiting the Bell Rock, with Mr Francis Watt, the foreman mill-wright. They accordingly sailed on one of their trips on the 5th of January at 12 noon; but the Tender did not reach the Floating-light till next morning at 1 o’clock. The weather being moderate, a supply of fuel, water, and provisions, was immediately sent on board, when Captain Taylor, with Mr William Reid his mate, and four seamen, shifted to the Tender, and Captain Calder of the Light-house Yacht, with John Blackwood his mate, and four seamen, took their station in the Floating-light. The Tender then stood towards the Rock, when the artificers landed with the boats at 9, and remained till 12 noon, and in the afternoon, the vessel returned and got into the harbour of Arbroath; Mr Watt reporting that every thing was in good order.
[Sidenote: Saturday 20th.]
In the same manner, and with similar success, the Floating-light and Bell Rock were visited on the 20th of this month.
[Sidenote: February.]
[Sidenote: Sunday, 11th.]
[Sidenote: Artificers cannot land on the Rock.]
The Tender was in a state of readiness for the spring-tides, on the 5th of February, but the winds, though westerly, were so stormy, that she could not go to sea. The weather having moderated on the 11th, though then the period of neap-tides, she went off to change the crew of the Floating-light, and supply that ship with necessaries; and afterwards stood towards the Rock; but as it did not appear above water, a landing could not be effected, though, from the general aspect of things, the Beacon and Building were concluded to be in good order, and the vessel returned to Arbroath on the afternoon of Monday the 12th.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 21st.]
[Sidenote: Still prevented from landing.]
The Tender sailed this morning at 5 o’clock, with a fine breeze at west, having on board the usual complement of artificers, a change of crew, and a supply of provisions for the Floating-light. At 9 she got off to the Rock, but the wind, by this time, blew so fresh, that it was found impracticable to land; every thing, however, about the Building and Beacon appeared to be in good order. At 11, the Tender stood towards the Floating-light, and, after considerable difficulty, the provisions were got on board, and a transfer made of the crews; when the Tender sailed for Arbroath, and got into the harbour at 4 P. M., having been only about eleven hours in making this trip.
[Sidenote: 1810, March.]
[Sidenote: Sunday, 11th.]
[Sidenote: A landing is effected. Large stones drifted upon the Rock.]
At 4 o’clock this morning, the Tender sailed for the Rock with the wind at N. by E., when the artificers made a landing at half-past 10, and remained till 1 A. M., having found every thing in good order, excepting some parts of the Railways, which had received damage from the movement of a large drift-stone or traveller, estimated to contain upwards of one ton of rock, which was broken and removed, to prevent its doing more damage. The building, as high as the daily rise of the tide, was now covered with a strong growth of sea-weed. On the course, however, immediately above the Rock, the fuci had been prevented from taking root from the chips of stone which continually washed about the building. Some holes in the Rock, near the Beacon, which, in the year 1807, had been filled with ruble-building, a species of work rather unexpectedly found to withstand the force of the sea, had in the late gales been shaken loose, and laid open.--In the course of the gales of the 25th, 26th, and 27th of March, as is supposed, two large drift-stones or travellers had done considerable injury to the Railways. It also appeared, from certain marks upon the beams of the Beacon, at the height of about five feet above the Rock, that these stones, containing from seven to ten cubic feet each, or upwards of half a ton, had actually been lifted by the sea and driven with force against the Beacon. In the course of these gales, also, the large cask-buoy, used as the moorings of the Tender, had broken adrift. During these gales, the Floating-light rolled very heavily, and had shipped several great seas, but nothing of any consequence happened in the way of damage to the vessel or her appurtenances.
[Sidenote: Beacon now rendered very secure.]
As the finishing of the Light-house, in the course of next season, depended wholly upon the stability of the Beacon, every possible attention was paid to its safety; and it was most satisfactory to learn, by Mr Watt’s report, that every thing about it continued in good order. On almost every visit during the two former winters, some of the bracing-chains were found in a broken state; but since the months of September and October last, when they were removed, and replaced with thirty-six great bars of iron bolted to the principal beams, as shown in Plate VIII., every thing had remained in a state of connected firmness.
[Sidenote: Progress of the works at Arbroath.]
The hewing or cutting of the several courses, forming the void of the Light-house, was also in great forwardness in the work-yard at Arbroath; and by the latter end of the month of April, the Forty-fourth course, forming part of the store-room, shewn in the section of Plate XVI., was laid on the platform, and ready for shipping to the Rock. The burning and pounding of the Aberthaw lime, and the preparation of other materials, were also going on.
[Sidenote: 1810, April.]
[Sidenote: Landing on the Rock precarious in Winter.]
The season, though now advanced to the month of April, was still boisterous. The day, however, was getting long, and the influence of the sun began to be felt in checking the frosts, which often stopped both the quarrying operations and the stone-cutters. The lengthening of the day, as well as moderate weather, was a great regulating circumstance in the Bell Rock works; for, during the winter months, only one low-water tide occurred with day-light; and, indeed, in the depth of winter, there may be said to be no very favourable opportunity of landing on the Rock, as low-water at new and full moon happens here about 8 o’clock, which renders the chance of landing extremely uncertain and precarious.
[Sidenote: Retrospective view of the works. Mylnefield Quarry.]
Previously to entering upon the operations of the season 1810, it may be proper, in this place, to take a retrospective view of the various departments of the work. The granite courses of the Bell Rock Light-house having been completed, for a considerable time, it was only the sandstone quarries that were to be attended to. As formerly noticed, the stone of Mylnefield, like that of most quarries which lie in strata or alternate beds, is liable to split and become useless, from the effects of frost, owing to the natural sap or moisture which they contain. Water, being unlike other bodies which follow the general law of contracting in volume with a reduction of temperature, is found, on the contrary, to encrease in bulk at the moment of congelation, producing the most surprising effects in rending rocks, even with an explosive force. In sandstone quarries, therefore, the work is usually suspended during the months of December, January, February and March, when the frost happens to be intense, as was the case in the winter of 1809-1810, when the thermometer occasionally fell so low as the 17th degree of Fahrenheit. Notwithstanding every precaution in the work-yard at Arbroath, by covering the quarried materials with straw and brushwood, many excellent and valuable stones were lost by the intenseness of the frost. Such, however, was the desire of getting early forward with the work, in order to insure the completion of the building operations in the favourable part of the season, that the writer took the earliest measures for getting an additional supply of stones from Mylnefield; and, by the beginning of the month of April, the Smeaton and Patriot, together with the hired sloop Alexander, were loaded and sent to Arbroath.
[Sidenote: Craigleith Quarry.]
From this description of the nature of the stone of Mylnefield, it became necessary, for the furtherance of the upper parts of the Light-house during the winter months, that they should be prepared of stone which would admit of being worked without much risk of injury during frosty weather. For the cornice of the building, and the parapet of the light-room, the writer, therefore, made choice of the Liver-rock of the Craigleith Quarry, well known for its durability and beauty, and for its property of not being liable to be affected by frost. By this means also, the iron-work or frame of the Light-room might be fitted to the masonry on the spot where it was to be prepared, which would thereby lessen the actual work upon the Rock. Another advantage attending this arrangement, was the opportunity it afforded of making practical trial of the Balance-crane, with which the masonry of the ensuing season was to be built, as it had been found necessary to make several alterations on its construction.
[Sidenote: State of the Works at Edinburgh.]
The use of a piece of vacant ground was accordingly got at Greenside, contiguous to the author’s house, in Edinburgh, where a number of masons were employed, at the sight of Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder. A very considerable difficulty was, however, experienced in procuring so many principal stones of the liver-rock, of the description and dimensions necessary for the cornice and balcony; the stones of which also formed the Light-room floor in one length, as will be understood by examining Plates XIII. and XVI. But, as these works commenced at Edinburgh in the latter end of October 1809, they were completed early in the month of March 1810, and the whole of this critical and difficult part of the building was then ready for shipping to the Bell Rock. The several compartments of the Light-room were now also in progress. The sheets of silver-plated copper for the reflectors having been ordered from Messrs Boulton and Watt,--the glass from the British Plate-Glass Company,--the cast-iron sash-frames from Mr John Patterson of the Edinburgh Foundery,--while the construction of the reflectors and reflecting-apparatus, together with the framing of the whole Light-room and its appurtenances, were executed under the immediate directions of Mr Thomas Smith, the writer’s predecessor, who had now retired from the more active duties of engineer to the Light-house Board.
[Sidenote: Practical conclusions about the period of completing the Works, and mode of distinguishing the Light.]
Having, in the course of the two last seasons, landed and built upwards of 1400 tons of stone upon the Bell Rock, while the work was low in the water, and before the Beacon was habitable, and finding that it did not now require more than about 700 tons to complete the masonry, the writer concluded, that, barring accidents of a very untoward nature, there was every prospect of the Light-house being finished in the course of the ensuing season. A question, of much importance, however, still remained in some measure undetermined, regarding the characteristic description of the light most suitable for the Bell Rock, so as to render it easily distinguishable from all others upon the coast. There being Stationary-lights already in the Firth of Forth; this mode could not be adopted for the Bell Rock. Revolving-lights had also lately been erected upon the Fearn Islands, the most contiguous Light-house-station to the southward, as will be seen from the General Chart of the coast in Plate III. Considering, therefore, the liability of the mariner to mistake the appearance of lights in stormy weather, or from an error in his course in returning from a distant voyage, it was of the last importance that the Bell Rock Light-house should be easily distinguishable. The most suitable means for accomplishing this seemed to be by the exhibition of _different colours_ from the same Light-room. The only colour which had yet been found to answer, was produced by interposing shades of red glass before the reflectors. But this was the colour used for distinguishing the Light of Flamborough-head, on the Yorkshire coast, and, though about 169 miles to the southward, it would still have been desirable to have avoided the same colour. A train of experiments was therefore made from Inchkeith Light-house, with plates of glass, coloured red, green, orange, yellow, blue, and purple, procured from Birmingham and London. These were fitted to the reflectors at Inchkeith, within view of the writer’s windows in Edinburgh. The Tender was likewise appointed to cruise, that more distant observations might be made, for ascertaining the effect of these coloured shades. But after the most full and satisfactory trials, the red colour was found to be the only one applicable to this purpose. In tolerably clear weather, the light of one reflector tinged red, alternating with a light of the natural appearance, with intervals of darkness, was easily distinguishable at the distance of eight or nine miles; while the other colours rendered the light opaque, being hardly distinguishable to the naked eye at more than two or three miles. After various trials and observations made in this manner, both on land and at sea, the writer at length resolved on recommending the use of red, as the only colour suitable for this purpose; and, in order to vary the light as much as possible from that of Flamborough-head, a square Reflector-frame was adopted at the Bell Rock, with two of its faces or sides having red coloured shades, and the other two exhibiting lights of the natural appearance. At Flamborough-head, the Reflector-frame is triangular, and on one side it is furnished with red coloured shades, while the other two sides exhibit lights of the natural appearance. The design at the Bell Rock, on the contrary, was to exhibit a light tinged red, alternating with one of the natural appearance; and, upon this principle, the apparatus was put in a state of preparation.
[Sidenote: 1810, March.]
[Sidenote: State of the Works at Arbroath.]
In the work-yard at Arbroath things were going forward very prosperously, at the sight of Mr David Logan, clerk of works. The hewing or preparation of the stones for the Light-house was now advanced to within about eight courses of the cornice, which, with the parapet, as already observed, was all set up at Edinburgh, and ready for being shipped when wanted at the Rock. A kiln of the Aberthaw limestone having already been calcined, was partly reduced to the state of powder, and put up into casks, as formerly. The operation of pounding the lime was very tedious and unpleasant, being performed by labourers upon a stone-bench in the lime-house, where it was reduced chiefly by means of friction, between the bench and stones, managed by hand. Due proportions of pozzolano-earth and clean sharp sand were made up in casks, and the oaken trenails and wedges in bundles; but the supply wanted of these materials was, in future, to be comparatively trifling. The building being now considerably above the rise of the tide, the use of mortar was less, while the system of trenailing and wedging was to be discontinued, after the building had reached the top of the stone staircase, or to the height of 13 feet above the solid. The several implements connected with the building operations being also laid to hand, nothing was now required but good weather and favourable tides, to proceed with the works at the Rock.
[Sidenote: Gangway or Bridge for the Rock.]
[Sidenote: 1810, April.]
Among the preparations at Arbroath for the furtherance of the work at the Bell Rock, was the construction of a gangway or bridge of timber between the Beacon and the Building, instead of the Rope-ladder employed with so much effect last season, as will be understood by examining the second and third years’ work, represented in Plate IX. This more stable and commodious way of communicating with the works, was also to be useful as a stage for raising the building materials, instead of the lower crane, the stool or prop of which had become too low, and, as before noticed, had been washed away by the sea in the course of last month. This bridge consisted of two principal beams of Memel timber, measuring 44 feet in length, 6 inches in thickness, and 13 inches in depth. At one end these beams were to abut against the principal beams of the Beacon, and to be strongly bolted to them; at the opposite end, one was to be rested on the sole or instep of the door, while the other was to be let 6 inches into a hole cut into the upper granite course of the Light-house. They were placed 7 feet apart, and formed a roadway of 6 feet in breadth between the rails, which was strongly bound in a lateral direction with cross framing mortised into the principal beams, and otherwise fixed with screw-bolts. The bridge was further to be supported by four diagonal spur-beams, which met in pairs on each side, at the middle of the roadway, and there formed king-posts, to steady and support it. A crab or winch-machine was to be placed upon it, for raising the stones at once from the rock to the level of the top of the solid part of the building.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 18th.]
[Sidenote: Operations commence for the season. Wooden Bridge is erected.]
After making the experiments relative to the distinguishing of the light, the Tender sailed from Leith Roads on the morning of Tuesday, the 3d of April, and got into Arbroath on the 6th, where she lay. Being fitted out for the Rock, with a sufficient stock of water and provisions, and having also on board the beams and apparatus for the wooden bridge, she sailed at 1 o’clock this morning, with eleven masons, three joiners, and two blacksmiths, together with Mr Francis Watt, foreman, in all seventeen artificers, who were to be employed during the ensuing spring-tides, in erecting the bridge between the Beacon and Building. At 3 P. M. she was made fast to the new moorings, which had been laid down for her in lieu of those which had drifted on the 26th of March; but the weather was then so boisterous, that no landing could be made on the Rock till the following morning, at 6 o’clock, when they commenced the operations of the season by laying the deals of the mortar-gallery, or lowest floor of the Beacon. Although the weather continued to be extremely boisterous till the 23d, the Tender’s marine barometer oscillating between 29.05 and 29.60, yet the wind being westerly, the artificers were enabled to pursue their operations by landing daily; for, upon this occasion, the Beacon was not taken possession of, and they returned at night to the Tender. On the 24th the weather became very fine; the barometer remaining for several days at about 30.10. The work now proceeded with so much alacrity and dispatch, that by the 28th the fixing of the bridge was completed, and the Tender returned with all hands to Arbroath.
[Sidenote: Monday, 23d.]
[Sidenote: Charles Gray gets one of his fingers severely bruised.]
While the Tender waited the operations of the artificers at the Rock, the Smeaton made two trips to it, and laid down six sets of moorings with their floating-buoys, so that every thing was now in a state of readiness for the commencement of the works. When unloading these moorings, Charles Gray, a seaman, unfortunately got one of his fingers so bruised between the hatchway of the ship and a mushroom-anchor, that it was found necessary to amputate part of it.
[Sidenote: 1810, May.]
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 1st.]
[Sidenote: The Writer proceeds for the Rock, to begin building for the season.]
The Smeaton having come to Leith for the Balance-crane, the writer sailed this afternoon with her for the Bell Rock, to commence the building operations for the season. The weather, for the last eight days, had been extremely stormy, and, though still unfavourable, yet, being moderate, hopes were entertained that she would soon make her way down the Firth of Forth. After beating to windward for a day and a night, however, she was obliged to bear away for Burntisland Roads, where he left the vessel, to pursue his journey by land to Arbroath, accompanied by Mr James Dove, foreman-smith, to whom particularly the change in the mode of travelling was a great relief, as, notwithstanding his having had considerable practice at sea, he was still a great martyr to sickness, and even felt a dislike for every thing connected with a ship, which was strongly marked by the following trifling occurrence. On leaving the Smeaton, Captain Pool, presenting the bread-basket to Mr Dove, observed, that, although he could not eat on board, he might perhaps be thankful of a biscuit when he got on shore; on which Mr Dove gravely replied, that “it would be long to the day before he would be thankful for a _sea-biscuit_.” The object of his journey at this time was to fit up the Balance-crane on the top of the building, and to superintend its operation for a time on the Rock. This useful implement had been constructed in the course of last season, but was not then found to be in a sufficiently serviceable state. It was accordingly new-modelled, and, though an opportunity had been afforded of making trial of it at Edinburgh, in raising the weighty stones of the cornice and balcony of the Light-house, yet the writer wished Mr Dove also to fit it at the Bell Rock. They reached Arbroath on the evening of the 3d.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 5th.]
[Sidenote: The Tender is ready for sea.]
The Smeaton arrived at Arbroath to-day with the Balance-crane, which was immediately put on board of the Tender, now ready to proceed for the Rock with the first good weather. The Smeaton then took on board the stone ballast, and platform, laid in her hold for the greater conveniency of stowing and discharging the prepared stones of the building. The wind had now changed to the S.W., and hopes were entertained of a return of good weather. But this being the period of neap-tides, and considering that it might be three or four months before some of the artificers again returned to the shore, as the Beacon was now habitable, it was intimated to them on Saturday, that the Tender would not sail till Monday. They accordingly attended church to-day, with their wonted decency of deportment.
[Sidenote: Monday, 7th.]
[Sidenote: Writer sails with the Artificers for the Rock.]
The artificers having been warned to take their quarters on board of the Tender last night, the writer sailed this morning from Arbroath at half-past 2, accompanied by Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, Mr Francis Watt, foreman mill-wright, and Mr James Dove, foreman smith, together with sixteen artificers, and the regular crew of the vessel, in all counting thirty-two persons; but the Tender having the Hedderwick praam-boat in tow, went slowly off. At 12 noon the Floating-light was hailed, when Captain Wilson, the landing-master, came on board, to take his station for the season, and at 1 P. M. the Tender was made fast to her moorings at the Bell Rock. The praam-boat was immediately hauled alongside, and the apparatus of the Balance-crane laid upon her deck, when she was towed to her moorings, there being too much sea at this time, for attempting to land upon the Rock. As the barometer stood at 30.04, hopes were entertained that the weather would soon improve.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 8th.]
[Sidenote: Landing impracticable.]
The wind was at east to-day, and the sea still broke so heavily upon the Rock, that no landing could be made. At high-water, the spray was observed to fly considerably above the building, perhaps not less than 20 feet, in all about 50 feet above the Rock, while the seas were raging and breaking among the beams of the Beacon with much violence.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 9th.]
[Sidenote: The Praam-boats ride easily.]
The same boisterous state of the weather still continued, and the sea-swell was nothing abated to-day, so that no landing could yet be made upon the Rock. The landing-master, however, went in a boat, and examined the Praam-boat at her moorings, where every thing was found in good order. It is here worthy of remark, that while the Tender and Floating-light rolled much, and occasionally shipped pretty heavy seas, the praam, with a cargo of about three tons on board, was perfectly dry upon deck, and to use the seamen’s expression, “rode as easily as an old shoe.”
[Sidenote: Thursday, 10th.]
[Sidenote: State of the Building.]
The wind had shifted to-day to W.NW., when the writer, with considerable difficulty, was enabled to land upon the Rock, for the first time this season, at 10 A. M. Upon examining the state of the Building, and Apparatus in general, he had the satisfaction to find every thing in good order. The mortar in all the joints was perfectly entire. The building, now 30 feet in height, was thickly coated with _fuci_ to the height of about 15 feet, calculating from the Rock: on the eastern side, indeed, the growth of sea-weed was observable to the full height of 30 feet, and even on the top or upper bed of the last laid course, especially towards the eastern side, it had germinated, so as to render walking upon it somewhat difficult. The smith’s forge, which had been removed from the mortar-gallery to the top of the Building, in the month of September last, to give more accommodation to the works of the joiners, was left there for the season,--the bellows excepted, which were kept under cover in the Beacon throughout the winter; and, it is not a little remarkable, that, although the sea had risen to a considerable height, and fallen in great quantities upon the top of the building; yet such was the centrical position of the forge, that it remained quite entire: even the spar of timber, and the small cords which had been stretched for steadying it, and forming an awning of about 8 feet in diameter, for sheltering the smith, were also still in their places. This was a proof that no very heavy seas had broken so high as the top of the solid, otherwise the forge and the apparatus for supporting the awning, must have long since been swept away by the breach of the sea.
[Sidenote: State of the Beacon.]
The Beacon-house was in a perfectly sound state, and apparently just as it had been left in the month of November. But the tides being neap, the lower parts, particularly where the beams rested on the Rock, could not now be seen. The great iron-bars, however, which measure 3 inches square, and from 7 to 9 feet in length, stretching between the principal beams, in place of the bracing chains, which were found constantly liable to break and unscrew, were in view, and in good order. The whole frame of this fabric was now in a firm and secure state. The floor of the mortar-gallery having been already laid down by Mr Watt and his men on a former visit, was merely soaked with the sprays; but the joisting-beams which supported it had, in the course of the winter, been covered with a fine downy conferva, produced by the range of the sea. They were also a good deal whitened with the mute of the cormorant and other sea-fowls, which had roosted upon the Beacon in winter. Upon ascending to the apartments, it was found that the motion of the sea had thrown open the door of the cook-house: this was only shut with a simple latch, that, in case of shipwreck at the Bell Rock, the mariner might find ready access to the shelter of this forlorn habitation, where a supply of provisions was kept; and being within two miles and a half of the Floating-light, a signal could readily be observed, when a boat might be sent to his relief as soon as the weather permitted. An arrangement for this purpose formed one of the Instructions on board of the Floating-light, but happily no instance occurred for putting it in practice. The hearth or fire-place of the cook-house was built of brick, in as secure a manner as possible, to prevent accident from fire; but some of the plaster work had shaken loose, from its damp state, and the tremulous motion of the Beacon in stormy weather. The writer next ascended to the floor which was occupied by the cabins of himself, and his assistants, which were in tolerably good order, having only a damp and musty smell. The barrack for the artificers over all, was next visited: it had now a very dreary and deserted appearance, when its former thronged state was recollected. In some parts, the water had come through the boarding, and had discoloured the lining of green cloth, but it was, nevertheless, in a good habitable condition. While the seamen were employed in landing a stock of provisions, a few of the artificers set to work, with great eagerness, to sweep and clean the several apartments. The exterior of the Beacon was, in the mean time, examined, and found in perfect order. The painting, though it had a somewhat blanched appearance, adhered firmly both on the sides and roof, and only two or three panes of glass were broken in the cupola, which had either been blown out by the force of the wind, or perhaps broken by sea-fowl.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 10th.]
[Sidenote: State of the Timber Bridge.]
Having, on this occasion, continued upon the building and beacon a considerable time, after the tide had begun to flow, the artificers were occupied in removing the forge from the top of the building, to which the gangway or wooden bridge gave great facility; and, although it stretched or had a span of 42 feet, its construction was extremely simple, while the roadway was perfectly firm and steady. In returning from this visit to the Rock, every one was pretty well soused in spray, before reaching the Tender at 2 o’clock P. M., where things awaited the landing party in as comfortable a way as such a situation would admit.
[Sidenote: Friday, 11th.]
[Sidenote: Balance-crane landed. Position of the Entrance-door.]
The wind was still easterly, accompanied with rather a heavy swell of sea, for the operations in hand. A landing was, however, made this morning, when the artificers were immediately employed in scraping the sea-weed off the upper course of the building, in order to apply the moulds of the first course of the staircase, that the joggle-holes might be marked off in the upper course of the solid, which, as formerly, had not been done to the finishing course of the season. This was also necessary previously to the writer’s fixing the position of the entrance-door, which was regulated chiefly by the appearance of the growth of the sea-weed on the building, indicating the direction of the heaviest seas, on the opposite side of which the door was placed. The landing-master’s crew succeeded in towing into the creek on the western side of the Rock, the praam-boat, with the balance-crane, which had now been on board of the praam for five days. The several pieces of this machine having been conveyed along the Railways upon the waggons, to a position immediately under the bridge, were elevated to its level, or thirty feet above the Rock, in the following manner. A chain-tackle was suspended over a pulley from the cross-beam, connecting the tops of the king-posts of the bridge, which was worked by a winch-machine, with wheel, pinion and barrel, round which last the chain was wound. This apparatus was placed on the Beacon-side of the bridge, at the distance of about twelve feet from the cross beam and pulley in the middle of the bridge. Immediately under the cross-beam a hatch was formed in the roadway of the bridge, measuring 7 feet in length and 5 feet in breadth, made to shut with folding boards like a double-door, through which stones and other articles were raised; the folding-doors were then let down, and the stone or load was gently lowered upon a waggon which was wheeled on railway tracks towards the Light-house. In this manner, the several castings of the balance-crane were got up to the top of the solid of the building.
[Sidenote: Artificers take possession of the Beacon.]
The several apartments of the Beacon-house having been cleaned out and supplied with bedding, a sufficient stock of provisions was put into the store, when Peter Fortune, formerly noticed, lighted his fire in the Beacon, for the first time this season. Sixteen artificers, at the same time, mounted to their barrack-room, and the foremen of the works also took possession of their cabin, all heartily rejoiced at getting rid of the trouble of boating, and the sickly motion of the Tender. The boats had landed on the Rock this morning at 9, and the writer left it again with the landing-master and his crew at 3 P. M., and went on board of the Tender for the night, after having seen some progress made in setting up the balance-crane.
[Sidenote: Smeaton arrives with the first cargo.]
The Smeaton having been loaded at Arbroath with the first cargo of stones, consisting of thirty-eight blocks of the Twenty-seventh course, got to her moorings at the Bell Rock this morning, and was made fast, though not without considerable difficulty. But, nothing could be done towards delivering her until the balance-crane was got into a working state.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 12th.]
[Sidenote: No communication with the Rock.]
The wind was at E.NE., blowing so fresh, and accompanied with so much sea, that no stones could be landed to-day. The people on the Rock, however, were busily employed in screwing together the balance-crane, cutting out the joggle-holes in the upper course, and preparing all things for commencing the building operations.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 13th.]
[Sidenote: Balance-crane ready for use.]
The weather still continues boisterous, although the barometer has all the while stood at about 30 inches. Towards evening, the wind blew so fresh at E. by S., that the boats both of the Smeaton and Tender were obliged to be hoisted in, and it was feared that the Smeaton would have to slip her moorings. The people on the Rock were seen busily employed, and had the balance-crane apparently ready for use, but no communication could be had with them to-day.
[Sidenote: Theory of the land and sea breeze exemplified.]
The wind had now prevailed long from the eastward, and it was remarked on board of the Tender, that, in moderate weather, it generally inclined from the northward in the mornings, and from the eastward and southward, as the sun advanced to the meridian; in this respect, resembling the land and sea breezes, familiar to those acquainted with tropical climates. This phenomenon is accounted for, by considering the state of the inland country, where the Grampian-hills lie about 20 miles northward from the coast, thickly covered with snow. The winds, therefore, in the early part of the day, generally came from these colder regions, towards the milder and somewhat more rare atmosphere of the sea. But in the after part of the day, the heat of the sun, acting more powerfully upon the arable lands and objects in the fore-ground of this mountainous range, rarified the air more highly upon the shores than on the sea, which produced a tendency in the winds to blow towards the land. Extending this view of the subject to the great tracts of snow-covered mountains, in the north-eastern districts of Europe, it is natural to suppose that the current of the winds will be from these colder regions towards the expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. Hence the prevailing winds in the spring of the year are from the eastward, in their passage across Great Britain to the Atlantic.
[Sidenote: Monday, 14th.]
[Sidenote: Smeaton slips her moorings.]
The wind continued to blow so fresh, and the Smeaton rode so heavily with her cargo, that at noon a signal was made for her getting under way, when she stood towards Arbroath; and, on board of the Tender, we are still without any communication with the people on the Rock; where the sea was seen breaking over the top of the building in great sprays, and ranging with much agitation among the beams of the Beacon.
[Sidenote: Tuesday 15th.]
[Sidenote: Returns to the Rock.]
The Smeaton did not go into Arbroath last night, as the appearance of a northerly or land breeze induced the active spirit of Captain Pool to stand off again for the Bell Rock; but he had no sooner reached his moorings at 5 o’clock this morning, than the wind again shifted to the S.E., and he could not get hold of the ring of the Floating-buoy of his moorings, and was, therefore, obliged to return again towards Arbroath. There was still no communication between the Tender and the Rock, as the sea continued to run very heavily upon it.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.]
[Sidenote: Is driven to Leith Roads.]
The wind had shifted to the N.E. this morning, and hopes were entertained that it might take a more northerly direction, but it continued without change, and for two or three days past the Barometer had been falling, and was now at 29.50. It was, therefore, still impossible to land upon the Rock. The appearance of the weather brought the Smeaton out of the harbour, Captain Pool having become very impatient to get his first cargo landed; but, on his arrival, instead of being able to make fast to his moorings, the writer found it necessary to direct him to proceed for Leith Roads, as the proper place for the vessel in the present state of the weather.
[Sidenote: Thursday 17th.]
[Sidenote: Patriot sent to the quarry for the last cargo of stones.]
[Sidenote: People at the Rock experience boisterous weather.]
The Smeaton had no sooner reached the Firth last night, and anchored in Leith Roads, than the wind came round to the north, and Pool, without delay, once more weighed anchor and sailed for the Bell Rock, which he reached this morning. The Patriot, at the same time, came off from Arbroath with water, fuel, and provisions for the supply of the Floating-light, the Tender, and Beacon-house, and after discharging these, she proceeded for Mylnefield Quarry, for the last cargo of stones wanted for the Bell Rock Light-house. On this trip the writer had great pleasure in dispatching her, as this state of things greatly narrowed the operations. The wind, in the course of the day, had shifted from north to west; the sea being also considerably less, a boat landed on the Rock at 6 P. M., for the first time since the 11th, with the provisions and water brought off by the Patriot. The inhabitants of the Beacon were all well, but tired above measure for want of employment, as the balance-crane and apparatus was all in readiness. Under these circumstances, they felt no less desirous of the return of good weather than those afloat, who were continually tossed with the agitation of the sea. The writer, in particular, felt himself almost as much fatigued and worn out as he had been at any period since the commencement of the work. The very backward state of the weather at so advanced a period of the season, unavoidably created some alarm, lest he should be overtaken with bad weather, at a late period of the season, with the building operations in an unfinished state. These apprehensions were, no doubt, rather increased by the inconveniences of his situation afloat, as the Tender rolled and pitched excessively at times. This being also his first off-set for the season, every bone of his body felt sore, with preserving a sitting posture, while he endeavoured to pass away the time in reading; as for writing it was wholly impracticable. He had several times entertained thoughts of leaving the station for a few days, and going into Arbroath with the Tender till the weather should improve; but, as the artificers had been landed on the Rock, he was averse to this at the commencement of the season, knowing also that he would be equally uneasy in every situation, till the first cargo was landed; and he, therefore, resolved to continue at his post until this should be effected.
[Sidenote: State of lower parts of the Beacon. Effects of marine vermes.]
At low-water to-day, an opportunity was afforded of examining the lower parts of the Beacon-house. The kneed Bats, or great iron stanchions, employed for fixing the principal beams to the Rock, which will be seen by examining Plate VIII., were found in good order, without the least appearance of movement or decay. The same observation is also applicable to the exterior of the principal beams of the Beacon, wherever the charring of the timber and successive coats of boiling pitch had been applied; but at the foot or sole of the respective beams, where they rested upon a site cut for them upon the rock, where the pitch could not be applied, the _òniscus_ or _vermis_ so destructive to timber exposed to the wash of the sea, had made a considerable impression, and the beams were found to be hollowed out. In several instances, they even stood clear of the Rock, depending only upon the stanchions and bolts for their support. The circumstance of these vermes attacking the sole of the beams, had not been anticipated, otherwise preventive means might have been adopted, by sheathing them with copper, especially where they rested on the Rock.
[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.]
[Sidenote: 23 blocks of stone landed and raised with the new tackle.]
The company of artificers, lodged on the Beacon, having been increased from sixteen to twenty-two, their time hang very heavily on their hands, till the stones were landed on the Rock. The wind being now N.W., the sea was considerably run down, and this morning at 5 o’clock, the landing-master’s crew, thirteen in number, left the Tender; and having now no detention with the landing of artificers, they proceeded to unmoor the Hedderwick Praam-boat, and towed her alongside of the Smeaton; and in the course of the day, twenty-three blocks of stone, three casks of pozzolano, three of sand, three of lime, and one of Roman cement, together with three bundles of trenails, and three of wedges, were all landed on the Rock and raised to the top of the building, by means of the tackle suspended from the cross-beam on the middle of the bridge. The stones were then moved along the bridge on the waggon to the building, within reach of the balance-crane, with which they were laid in their respective places on the building. The masons immediately thereafter proceeded to bore the trenail holes into the course below, and otherwise to complete the one in hand. When the first stone was to be suspended by the balance-crane, the bell on the Beacon was rung, and all the artificers and seamen were collected on the building. Three hearty cheers were given while it was lowered into its place, and the steward served round a glass of rum, when success was drank to the further progress of the building.
[Sidenote: One of the stones in danger from the breaking of a bolt.]
Having thus had the satisfaction of finding that the bridge and its apparatus answered every purpose for raising the materials; that the balance-crane was no less suitable for building the stones, which, from their dove-tailed form, as before noticed, required that they should be slipped or laid perpendicularly into their sites; and the artificers being now comfortably lodged in the Beacon-house, there hardly remained a doubt that the Bell Rock Light-house would be completed in the course of the current year. It often happens, however, that accidents occur on the first trial of machinery; and, accordingly, in shifting the wheel and pinion work of the winch-machine upon the bridge, from the single to the double-purchase, in order to raise a pretty heavy stone, the bolt of the bush gave way, just as the stone had attained its full height, and was about to be lowered on the bridge-waggon, to be moved within the sphere of the balance-crane. The fall of the stone, though only from a height of 8 or 9 inches, communicated a sudden shock throughout the Beacon-house, and produced an alarm among the workmen for the moment. Had this accident occurred before the waggon was wheeled under the stone, in all probability it would have killed some of those who were at work below upon the Rock; besides breaking the stone and the railway, which must have stopped the work for a considerable time, until another stone could have been prepared and sent from the work-yard at Arbroath.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.]
[Sidenote: 15 stones landed.]
The Smeaton having been completely discharged last night, sailed at 10 P. M. for Arbroath, to load a second cargo for the Bell Rock. The Patriot had towed off the Dickie Praam-boat to-day, being of a somewhat smaller size, and more handy than the Fernie, which now lay in ordinary, at Arbroath, in case of accident to the Hedderwick or Dickie. The wind, however, being rather unsteady, it was feared that no materials would have been landed; but Captain Wilson, with his usual dexterity and skill, succeeded in transporting fifteen stones, which were raised to the top of the building, by means of the tackle on the bridge, and built by the balance-crane with wonderful facility.
[Sidenote: Smeaton makes rapid trips.]
This morning at 1 o’clock, the Smeaton got into Arbroath, when Mr Kennedy, engineer’s clerk, had the artificers immediately called, who loaded her with the Twenty-eighth course of the building, consisting of thirty-three pieces of stone, besides six casks of pozzolano, six casks of lime, six casks of sand, four bundles of trenails, four bundles of wedges, and eight stone joggles, together with four logs of timber, one Railway-waggon, and a supply of water, beer, fuel and provisions for the Beacon-house. At 2 P. M. she sailed again for the Bell Rock, and reached it at 5, to the surprise of every one, Captain Pool being no less active in his trips than Mr Kennedy was zealous in the dispatch given at the work-yard.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 20th.]
[Sidenote: Prayers first read on the Light-house.]
The wind was southerly to-day, but there was much less sea than yesterday, and the landing-master’s crew were enabled to discharge and land twenty-three pieces of stone, and other articles for the work. The artificers had completed the laying of the Twenty-seventh or First course of the staircase this morning, and in the evening, they finished the boring, trenailing, wedging, and grouting with it mortar. At 12 o’clock noon, the Beacon-house bell was rung, and all hands were collected on the top of the building, where prayers were read, for the first time, on the Light-house, which forcibly struck every one, and had, upon the whole, a very impressive effect. The artificers then went to their barrack to dinner, and the landing-master’s crew went off to the Tender. In the afternoon, the remainder of the Smeaton’s cargo was discharged, and she sailed for Arbroath at 11 P. M.
[Sidenote: Monday, 21st.]
[Sidenote: Active exertions of the landing-master’s crew.]
The Patriot had arrived at Arbroath with the last cargo of stones from Mylnefield Quarry for the Light-house, on the 19th, and was fully discharged to-day, and was now fitting with her ballast and platform for carrying off the worked materials to the Rock. The wind being at south, caused a considerable swell on the Rock, and it was with great difficulty that the landing-master got the remaining ten stones of the Smeaton’s last cargo landed from the Hedderwick. His crew were not only completely drenched, but were much exhausted with the fatigue of pulling the loaded praam-boat against the swell of the sea; and on reaching the Rock, it required their utmost exertions to prevent her from driving to leeward upon the rugged ledges which encumbered the eastern creek.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 22d.]
[Sidenote: Thirty-first course completed.]
The dispatch made by the Smeaton in performing her trips between Arbroath and the Bell Rock, was quite surprising, being seldom more than one day absent. On the last trip, for example, she had only left the Rock on Sunday night at 11, and this morning at 8 o’clock, she returned to her moorings with thirty-five pieces of stone. Of these, seventeen were landed to-day, with which the Thirty-first course of the building was completed, and the remainder of the day was occupied in boring the trenail holes in the lower course, fixing the trenails and wedges, and grouting the whole carefully with mortar.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 23d.]
The Patriot arrived at the Rock this morning, with her first cargo of building materials for the season, consisting of 42 stones, together with a supply of pozzolano, lime, sand, wedges, trenails, and 8 stone joggles. The Smeaton was completely discharged of her cargo, and sailed again at 2 P. M., when the writer took his passage with her to Arbroath.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.]
[Sidenote: Arrangements for conduct of the work, and safety of the Beacon.]
The weather continued moderate at the Rock, with the wind at west, and 18 stones of the Patriot’s cargo were landed and built to-day. The Accounts connected with the Light-house service were collected at this period, being paid at the terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas. The writer at the same time arranged some matters more fully in the work-yard, connected with the loading of the materials at Arbroath. In particular, Mr David Logan, clerk of works, was held responsible for providing every thing contained in the Requisition of the foreman-builder; while Mr Kennedy, engineer’s clerk, was answerable for the other parts of the respective Requisitions from the Tender and Beacon, and for the dispatch given in the loading and sailing of the vessels. The masters of the stone-vessels were accordingly directed, on their arrival by night or day, to deliver all letters at the office. In the same manner, before leaving the Rock, Regulations for the proper conduct of the works there, were also instituted; where his assistants were also held responsible for the duties of their several departments; Mr Peter Logan, for the execution of the masonry; Mr Francis Watt, for the good condition of the Beacon-house, Railways, and Machinery; Captain Wilson, for the state of the Praams and other boats employed in the landing of materials, and for the safety of the stones and building-materials in transporting them from the ship’s hold till they were placed upon the waggons on the Rock. The steward, Mr John Peters, was answerable for making the necessary Requisitions for a sufficient stock of provisions, water and fuel; while Captain Taylor, master of the Tender, was to see a proper stock of these articles landed and kept in store upon the Rock. From the hazardous situation of the Beacon-house with regard to fire, being composed wholly of timber, there was no small risk from accident; and on this account, one of the most steady of the artificers was appointed to see that the fire of the cooking-house, and the lights in general, were carefully extinguished at stated hours.
[Sidenote: Friday, 25th.]
The weather continued to be extremely fine, with the wind at west, and the barometer standing about 30 inches. The landing operations proceeded briskly, so that the building was to-day ready for the Door-lintel.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 26th.]
[Sidenote: Balance-crane shaft is broken.]
The door-lintel being of large dimensions, equal to about a ton and a half in weight, and considerably heavier than any of the other stones of this course, in raising it with the balance-crane, sufficient attention had not been paid to increase the balance-weight proportionally, and an unequal strain being then brought upon the opposite arms of the crane, the upright shaft yielded, and broke at one of the joints; fortunately no person was hurt, though a stop was put to the work for the present. This unlucky accident happened about 4 in the afternoon, when the Patriot, then at her moorings, discharging a cargo of stones, was immediately dispatched to Arbroath with the broken shaft, where she arrived about 2 o’clock on Sunday morning. The writer was at this early hour rather alarmed, by Captain Macdonald knocking at his bed-room door, and calling out in a hollow tone, “that the Balance-crane had given way.” An express was immediately sent for Mr James Dove, who, only two days prior to the accident, had left the Bell Rock, and was in the neighbourhood of Arbroath, and when the messenger reached him, he was preparing to go with his friends to the church of his native parish.
[Sidenote: The Writer is welcomed in at the door of the Light-house.]
The shaft of this crane consisted of four hollow pipes of cast iron, in lengths, the lower one of 8 feet, and the three upper ones of 6 feet, fitted to each other with a flush or square joint, so that the body of the crane might traverse upon them without interruption, as will be understood by examining Plate XVII. There was, unavoidably, a degree of weakness at these joints, which required considerable precaution in shifting or adjusting the balance-weight, according to the strain occasioned by a heavy stone. This accident, though speedily repaired, produced a delay of no less than three days to the building operations, which, together with the time occupied in making provision for a new method of inserting the door-hinges into the building, made this part of the masonry, upon the whole, appear extremely tedious. Having got the door-lintel laid, the writer was not a little gratified on being welcomed, with acclamation, in at the Door of the Bell Rock Light-house. Limited as the height of the building still was, the formation of the door stamped a new character upon it, and the lintel gave it an additional appearance of strength.
[Sidenote: Fixtures of the hinges of the door and window-shutters.]
The fixtures of the hinges of the door and shutters of the windows are of a peculiar construction, as will be seen in the different diagrams of Plate XIX. They consisted of boxes or cases made of brass, of a dovetailed form, measuring 16 inches in length, and 1 inch in depth in the void; one of these cases was inserted into a cavity cut in the upper bed of one of the rybat-stones on each side of the door or window, and run up with melted lead. Into this case the dovetail-end of the hinge was afterwards introduced, and fixed in its place by driving a middle-piece, after the manner of a Lewis-bat. The advantage of this method is, that, in the event of its being found necessary, at any future period, to renew or repair a hinge, all that becomes necessary is to draw the middle-piece and extract the Lewis from the box, without requiring to cut or mangle the building, as would be found necessary by the usual method of inserting hinges into walls. The hinges and cases were made of fine brass; those for the door weighing 50 lb., and those for the window-shutters being smaller, weighed about half as much.
[Sidenote: 1810, June.]
[Sidenote: Friday, 1st.]
The weather, during the last week of the month of May, was very favourable for the operations; and the barometer stood to-day at no less than 30 inches and 42 hundred parts. The wind was S.E., and the atmosphere somewhat foggy, but not such as to prevent the landing operations from going forward. The Patriot was now at her moorings discharging; and the landing-master’s crew transported one of the praam-boats to the Rock with 14 stones, which enabled the builders to complete the Thirty-third course, being the one immediately above the door-lintel, consisting of 32 stones.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 2d.]
[Sidenote: Shipping makes great dispatch.]
The weather still continuing to be extremely fine, the landing-master and his crew left the Tender at 4 A. M., and proceeded to deliver the remainder of the Patriot’s cargo, consisting of 14 stones, with a proportion of pozzolano, lime, sand, and Roman cement, together with six bundles of trenails and wedges. She then made sail for Arbroath, and the Smeaton at the same time arrived with the Thirty-fourth course, consisting also of 32 stones. She had previously put a new cable on board of the Floating-light, this being the period at which her winter-tackle was annually shifted. The Smeaton got to her moorings at 11 A. M., when Captain Wilson and his crew immediately proceeded to deliver her, and by 4 in the afternoon she was cleared, and had sailed again for Arbroath to load, having thus been discharged in five hours, being the shortest period in which any cargo had hitherto been delivered at the Bell Rock. This formed a striking contrast with the delivery of the first cargo of the season, which had been on board from the 18th till the 29th of May, or eleven days, in the course of which the Smeaton was put thrice into Arbroath, and once up to Leith Roads, shewing how very dependent these works are upon the state of the weather. To-day there were no fewer than 56 pieces of stones transported to the Rock, being the greatest number hitherto landed in one day.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 3d.]
[Sidenote: Patriot makes a trip in 33 hours.]
The dispatch given in the loading department at Arbroath was nothing short of that of the landing at the Rock. The Patriot only got to the Light-house loading-birth last night at 11 P. M., when Mr Kennedy commenced loading her at midnight, with 34 pieces of stone, 9 stone joggles, two casks of pozzolano, two casks of lime, two casks of sand, and three bundles of trenails and wedges: she sailed again at 4 A. M., and got fast to her moorings at 5 in the afternoon, having been absent from the Rock only 33 hours. The landing-master’s crew towed the Hedderwick praam-boat alongside, and loaded her with 18 pieces of stone, which were safely landed on the Rock. At 11 P. M. the boats returned to the Tender, having been at work since 4 o’clock this morning. The weather was so inviting at this time, that, contrary to usual practice, a quantity of the stones was laid upon the Rock round the western side of the building, which were afterwards raised by the purchase-tackle on the bridge: the building was thus continued for a longer period than the tide permitted the landing-master’s crew to proceed with their operations. Some risk, however, attended this arrangement, as part of the stones were necessarily left on the Rock, exposed to the wash of the sea, from one tide to another. But the workmen being now permanently on the Rock, this could scarcely happen to a great extent, as the sea generally takes a tide or two to get into so rough a state as to be dangerous in cases of this kind. The Thirty-fifth course was laid to-day, consisting of 32 pieces of stone; but it required the work to be continued from 5 in the morning till 8 in the evening, before the trenailing, wedging, and grouting with mortar, were completed; the artificers having of course pay for their extra hours.
[Sidenote: Monday, 4th.]
[Sidenote: Thirty-sixth course laid.]
To-day there was a strong breeze of wind from the east, with hazy weather, but, as the mercury still maintained the high state of 30.32, every confidence was felt in the landing operations. The Patriot was accordingly discharged of the remainder of her cargo, and 16 stones, with other building materials, were landed on the Rock, though not without considerable difficulty, from the heavy swell of sea which was running upon it. The artificers also succeeded in building all the stones which were on the Rock, and finished the Thirty-sixth course, consisting of 24 blocks.
[Sidenote: The King’s birth-day observed.]
This being the Birth-day of our much revered Sovereign King GEORGE III., now in the Fiftieth year of his reign, the shipping of the Light-house service were this morning decorated with colours according to the taste of their respective captains. Flags were also hoisted upon the Beacon-house and Balance-crane on the top of the Building. At 12 noon, a salute was fired from the Tender, when the King’s health was drunk, with all the honours, both on the Rock, and on board of the shipping.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 5th.]
[Sidenote: Stair-case completed.]
[Sidenote: Rate of Wages.]
The weather still continuing very favourable for the operations, the work proceeded with much regularity and dispatch. Twenty stones were landed to-day from the Smeaton, and the artificers completed the Thirty-eighth or finishing course of the staircase, which brought the building to the height of 45 feet. As the walls were here reduced from 5 feet 9 inches to 3 feet 2 inches in thickness, the scarsement at the level of this course formed a kind of floor or bench 2 feet 7 inches in breadth, at the top of the staircase, intended for keeping the water-cisterns, fuel, and provisions. The laying of this course being attended with a good deal of additional trouble, the artificers were occupied with it from 5 o’clock in the morning till 8 in the evening, when all hands being collected on the building, three hearty cheers were given, and a dram served out, at the completion of the first floor. During this season, nine hours were counted a day’s work at the Bell Rock, instead of three hours of tide-work, as in the early stages of the business. The artificers having, therefore, had six extra hours to-day, at the rate of 6d. per hour, each had 3s. per day to receive, in addition to his stated wages of 3s. 4d.; and, as the work was continued on Sundays, they were now making upwards of two guineas per week, free of incumbrance, while the foremen were in the receipt of about double that sum. The inhabitants of the Beacon were consequently in great spirits, both at the satisfactory progress of the work, and at the amount of their extra wages.
[Sidenote: Progress of the Works at Edinburgh.]
While the work thus proceeded at the Bell Rock, it was making also good progress at Arbroath, as the whole of the courses, excepting three, were now ready for shipping to the Rock. Advice was also received from Edinburgh, that the Light-room Reflecting-apparatus and Revolving-machinery were getting regularly forward, so that every prospect was afforded of the work being brought to a conclusion in the course of the season.
[Sidenote: Artificers liable to accident. Small Boat and Life-buoy provided.]
As the Light-house advanced in height, the cubical contents of the stones were less, but they had to be raised to a greater height; and the walls being thinner were less commodious for the necessary machinery, and the artificers employed, which considerably retarded the work. Inconvenience was also occasionally experienced from the men dropping their coats, hats, mallets, and other tools, at high-water, which were carried away by the tide; and the danger to the people themselves was now greatly increased. Had any of them fallen from the Beacon or Building at high-water, while the landing-master’s crew were generally engaged with the craft at a distance, it must have rendered the accident doubly painful to those on the Rock, who at this time had no boat, and consequently no means of rendering immediate and prompt assistance. In such cases, it would have been too late to have got a boat by signal from the Tender. A small boat, which could be lowered at pleasure, was therefore suspended by a pair of davits projected from the cook-house, the keel being about 30 feet from the Rock, as will be seen from Plate VIII. This boat, with its tackle, was put under the charge of James Glen, of whose exertions on the Beacon mention has already been made, and who having in early life been a seaman, was also very expert in the management of a boat. A life-buoy was likewise suspended from the bridge, to which a coil of line 200 fathoms in length was attached, which could be let out to a person falling into the water, or to the people in the boat, should they not be able to work her with the oars.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 6th.]
[Sidenote: Trenailing the Stones discontinued.]
The landing-master succeeded to-day in transporting 44 stones to the Rock, and the artificers laid the Thirty-eighth course, which consisted of 16 blocks. The trenailing and wedging of the stones being now discontinued, as the building was above the ordinary range of the sea, a great relief was instantly felt, as will be understood from examining the several courses in Plate XIII.; and as the work was thereby much simplified, it was now expected that two courses might be laid _per_ day.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 7th.]
[Sidenote: Number of people on the Beacon. Fitting of window-hinges troublesome.]
To-day 12 stones were landed on the Rock, being the remainder of the Patriot’s cargo; and the artificers built the Thirty-ninth course, consisting of 14 stones. The Bell Rock works had now a very busy appearance, as the Light-house was daily getting more into form. Besides the artificers and their cook, the writer and his servant were also lodged on the Beacon, counting in all twenty-nine; and at low-water the landing-master’s crew, consisting of from twelve to fifteen seamen, were employed in transporting the building materials, working the landing apparatus on the Rock, and dragging the stone-waggons along the railways, of which an idea will be formed by examining Plate XVIII. There were 27 stones discharged to-day from the Smeaton; and the artificers laid the Fortieth course of the building, in which the windows of the water, fuel, and provision store-room occur. The fitting of the hinge-boxes for the window storm-shutters, occupied a considerable portion of time, as has already been described in allusion to the entrance-door.
[Sidenote: Friday, 8th.]
[Sidenote: The comfort of good weather on the Rock.]
In the course of this day the weather varied much. In the morning it was calm; in the middle part of the day there were light airs of wind from the south, and in the evening fresh breezes from the east. The barometer in the writer’s cabin in the Beacon-house oscillated from 30 inches to 30.42, and the weather was extremely pleasant. This, in any situation, forms one of the chief comforts of life, but, as may easily be conceived, it was doubly so to people stuck as it were upon a pinnacle in the middle of the ocean.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 9th.]
[Sidenote: Balance-crane shifted to-day.]
The weather continued to be very agreeable, and ships every where seen upon the sea. At the Bell Rock we had only the Tender and the Floating-light, the Smeaton and Patriot being at Arbroath. The Dickie praam-boat was brought from her moorings this morning, when 9 stones were landed. The artificers were chiefly occupied to-day, in shifting the balance-crane from the top of the solid, to the top of the staircase, across which it was supported on strong beams, while struts were projected under the body of the crane, and butting against the interior of the walls of the building, as will be understood by examining the third year’s work of Plate IX. The balance-crane was, however, so constructed, that its foot might have been allowed to rest upon the solid of the building throughout the whole operation, and the shaft lengthened as the building rose, by adding additional pieces, till the whole of the masonry was completed, which would have formed a length of shaft extending to 50 feet. It was, however, found, upon the whole, to be more convenient and economical to lift the crane from floor to floor as the work advanced.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 10th.]
[Sidenote: Crane erected at western Wharf.]
Although stones had hitherto been occasionally landed on the western, as well as the eastern side of the Bell Rock, according to the state of the weather; yet, as the railways and apparatus of the eastern creek were much sooner in a working condition than those of the other, and being only 90 feet from the Light-house, while the western Railway extended to 290 feet in length, as will be seen from Plates VI. and XVIII., the eastern creek was generally used in all directions of the wind, when the weather was moderate. To-day, however, the wharf at the western creek had been completed to its full extent, and one of the moveable-beam cranes was erected at it, upon a piece of frame-work constructed of Norway logs, forming also a platform employed in landing the stones.
[Sidenote: Two stones upset by the Sea.]
In the course of last night, the wind had blown pretty strongly from the S.E., and towards morning it shifted to the S.W., which created a considerable swell of sea. Owing to the time unavoidably occupied in the shifting the balance-crane, and fitting the brass cases for the Lewis-bat hinges of the window-shutters of the provision-store, together with the eagerness, and even impatience of Captain Wilson, the landing-master, on all occasions, to get his part of the business accomplished by the speedy delivery of the stone-vessels, he had landed both the Thirty-first and Thirty-second courses, which were thus piled in rather too great a number at the western side of the building. During the night, though the range of the sea was considered trifling, yet it had upset two of the stones, which, when the tide left the Rock, were found lying at some distance with the Lewis-bats turned downwards. These two courses, being too much at the mercy of the waves, were raised to their places on the building, and, though not laid with mortar for the present, were, nevertheless, out of the reach of heavy seas, and more at the command of the artificers.
[Sidenote: A Praam boat is sent from the Rock with her cargo.]
Although the praam-boats, from their built, and the construction of their moorings, rode easily with a cargo on deck, as formerly noticed, yet a certain risk also attended this state of things, and the writer rather wished the Smeaton and Patriot to remain at their station, with the stones on board, until an opportunity was afforded of landing and getting them at once laid in their places upon the building. One of the praam-boats had, however, been brought to the Rock with 11 stones, notwithstanding the perplexity which attended the getting of those formerly landed taken up to the building. Mr Peter Logan, the foreman builder, interposed, and prevented this cargo from being delivered, but the landing-master’s crew were exceedingly averse to this arrangement, from an idea that “ill luck” would in future attend the Praam, her cargo, and those who navigated her, from thus reversing her voyage. It may be noticed, that this was the first instance of a Praam-boat having been sent from the Bell Rock with any part of her cargo on board, and was considered so uncommon an occurrence, that it became a topic of conversation among the seamen and artificers.
At 1 P. M. the bell rung for prayers, which were read by the writer in the Beacon; after which the artificers went to dinner, and the work again commenced and was continued till 9.
[Sidenote: Monday, 11th.]
The first operation of the building-artificers this morning, was to lift the two courses laid on the top of the walls last night, and build them with mortar; some of the stones of the upper course, in the mean time, being stowed round the foot of the balance-crane. These two courses consisted each of 16 stones, besides the dove-tail joggles for connecting the perpendicular joints, as shewn in diagrams of Plate XIII. The landing-master’s crew proceeded this morning to discharge the Patriot, and having loaded the Hedderwick Praam-boat, she was towed to her moorings to remain until the stones could be received at the Rock. In the afternoon the Patriot sailed; and in the evening the Smeaton arrived from Arbroath with another cargo, bringing also letters, papers, provisions, water, and fuel for the Beacon.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 12th.]
[Sidenote: Stones sent from the Rock are safely landed.]
To-day the stones formerly sent from the Rock were safely landed, notwithstanding the augury of the seamen, in consequence of their being sent away two days before. These, together with 14 dove-tail joggles, were immediately taken up to the top of the building, and laid, for the present, without mortar, on the top of the Thirty-fourth course.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 13th.]
[Sidenote: Floor of the Light-room flat laid.]
The artificers were employed with the Forty-sixth course to-day, and in making preparations for laying the Forty-seventh, being the floor for the Light-room stores. In the afternoon and evening, the joiners were employed in fitting up a piece of frame-work, as a centre for supporting the interior ends of the stones composing the Floor course, which projected from the outward face of the building towards the centre of the apartment, as will be understood from Plates XIII. and XVI.
[Sidenote: Mr John Reid has got leave ashore, after being three months afloat.]
The Floating-light having got her winter cable on board, and being otherwise in good order, Mr John Reid, principal Light-keeper, and acting master, while Captain Wilson was employed at the Bell Rock, having been upwards of three months afloat, it was thought proper that he should now have liberty for a time on shore, that, in his turn, he might relieve Mr Wilson. Mr Taylor, commander of the Tender, accordingly went on board of the Floating-light, leaving the landing-master in charge of the Tender, along with his other duties at the Rock.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 14th.]
To-day 27 stones and 11 joggle-pieces were landed, part of which consisted of the Forty-seventh course, forming the store-room floor. The builders were at work this morning by 4 o’clock, in the hopes of being able to accomplish the laying of the 18 stones of this course. But at 8 o’clock in the evening they had still two to lay, and as the stones of this course were very unwieldy, being 6 feet in length, they required much precaution and care both in lifting and laying them. It was, however, only on the writer’s suggestion to Mr Logan, that the artificers were induced to leave off, as they had intended to complete this floor before going to bed. The two remaining stones were, however, laid in their places without mortar, when the bell on the Beacon was rung, and all hands being collected on the top of the building, three hearty cheers were given on covering the first apartment. The steward then served out a dram to each, when the whole retired to their barrack much fatigued, but with the anticipation of the most perfect repose even in the “hurricane-house,” amidst the dashing seas on the Bell Rock.
[Sidenote: First letter written from the Light-house.]
While the workmen were at breakfast and dinner, it was the writer’s usual practice to spend his time on the walls of the building, which, notwithstanding the narrowness of the track, nevertheless formed his principal walk, when the Rock was under water. But this afternoon he had his writing-desk set upon the store-room floor, when he wrote to Mrs Stevenson, certainly the first letter dated from the Bell Rock _Light-house_, giving a detail of the fortunate progress of the work, with an assurance that the Light-house would soon be completed at the rate at which it now proceeded; and the Patriot having sailed for Arbroath in the evening, he felt no small degree of pleasure in dispatching this communication to his family.
[Sidenote: Friday, 15th.]
[Sidenote: Floors of the Bell Rock and Edystone Light-houses.]
The floor-courses of the Bell Rock Light-house lay horizontally upon the walls, as will be seen from the sections in Plates VII. and XVI. They consisted in all of 18 blocks, but only 16 were laid in the first instance, as the centre-stone were necessarily left out, to allow the shaft of the balance-crane to pass through the several apartments of the building. In the same manner also, the stone which formed the interior side of the man-hole, was not laid till after the centre stone was in its place, and the masonry of the walls completed. The number of stones above alluded to are independently of the sixteen joggle pieces with which the principal blocks of the floors were connected, as shewn in the diagrams of Plates VII. and XIII. The floors of the Edystone Light-house, on the contrary, were constructed of an arch-form, and the haunches of the arches bound with chains, to prevent their pressing outward, to the injury of the walls. In this, Mr Smeaton followed the construction of the Dome of St Paul’s; and this mode might also be found necessary at the Edystone, from the want of stones in one length, to form the outward wall and floor, in the then state of the granite quarries of Cornwall. At Mylnefield Quarry, however, there was no difficulty in procuring stones of the requisite dimensions; and the writer foresaw many advantages that would arise, from having the stones of the floors to form part of the outward walls without introducing the system of arching: in particular, the pressure of the floors upon the walls would thus be perpendicular; for, as the stones were prepared in the sides, with _groove-and-feather_, after the manner of the common house-floor, they would, by this means, form so many girths, binding the exterior walls together, as will be understood by examining the diagrams and section of Plate VII., with its letter-press description; agreeably to which he had modelled the floors in his original designs for the Bell Rock, which were laid before the Light-house Board in the year 1800.
[Sidenote: 31 Persons lodged in the Beacon-house.]
[Sidenote: Pay and Premiums at the Rock.]
The weather still continuing favourable for the operations at the Rock, the work proceeded with much energy, through the exertions both of the seamen and artificers. For the more speedy and effectual working of the several tackles, in raising the materials as the building advanced in height, and there being a great extent of Railway to attend to, which, required constant repairs, two additional mill-wrights were added to the complement on the Rock, which, including the writer, now counted thirty-one in all. So crowded was the men’s barrack, that the beds were ranged five tier in height, allowing only about 1 foot 8 inches for each bed, while the greatest extent of floor-room measured only about 8 feet 6 inches across, between the beds on opposite sides, as will be seen in the sections and diagrams of Plate VIII. The artificers commenced this morning at 5 o’clock, and, in the course of the day, they laid the Forty-eighth and Forty-ninth courses, consisting each of 16 blocks. From the favourable state of the weather, and the regular manner in which the work now proceeded, the artificers had generally from four to seven extra hours’ work, which, including their stated wages of 3s. 4d., yielded them from 5s. 4d. to about 6s. 10d. per day, besides their board; even the postage of their letters was paid while they were at the Bell Rock. In these advantages, the foremen also shared, having about double the pay and amount of premiums of the artificers. The seamen being less out of their element in the Bell Rock operations than the landsmen, their premiums consisted in a slump sum, payable at the end of the season, which extended from three to ten guineas.
[Sidenote: Seamen find one of the lost sets of moorings.]
As the laying of the floors was somewhat tedious, the landing-master and his crew had got considerably beforehand with the building artificers in bringing materials faster to the Rock than they could be built. The seamen having, therefore, some spare time, were occasionally employed, during fine weather, in dredging or grappling for the several mushroom-anchors and mooring-chains, which had been lost in the vicinity of the Bell Rock, during the progress of the work, by the breaking loose and drifting of the floating-buoys. To encourage their exertions in this search, Five Guineas were offered as a premium for each set they should find; and after much patient application, they succeeded to-day in hooking one of these lost anchors with its chain.
[Sidenote: Experiment of collecting Gas from Fishes.]
It was a general remark at the Bell Rock, as before noticed, that fish were never plenty in its neighbourhood, excepting in good weather. Indeed, the seamen used to speculate about the state of the weather from their success in fishing. When the fish disappeared at the Rock, it was considered a sure indication that a gale was not far off, as the fish seemed to seek shelter in deeper water, from the roughness of the sea, during these changes of the weather. At this time, the Rock, at high-water, was completely covered with podlies, or the fry of the coalfish, about six or eight inches in length. The artificers sometimes occupied half an hour after breakfast and dinner in catching these little fishes, but were more frequently supplied from the boats of the Tender. This evening the landing-master’s crew brought to the Rock a quantity of newly caught codfish, measuring from 15 to 24 inches in length. The membrane called the _sound_, which is attached to the back-bone of fishes, being understood to contain, at different times, greater portions of azote and of oxygen than common air, the present favourable opportunity was embraced for collecting a quantity of this gas in a drinking-glass, inverted into a pail of salt-water. The fish being held under this glass as a receiver, their bladders were punctured, and a considerable quantity of gas was thus collected. A lighted match was afterwards carefully introduced into the glass, when the gas exhibited in a considerable degree the bright and luminous flame which an excess of oxygen is known to produce.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 16th.]
[Sidenote: Cause of ground swells.]
The weather was hazy, and the wind had shifted to-day from west to east, accompanied with a heavy ground-swell in the sea. At the Bell Rock, this was sometimes observed to be the precursor of a gale, while, on other occasions, the swell did not make its appearance till the force of the wind had ceased. Many speculations have been made by naturalists upon the probable cause of ground-swells, so often observed by seamen, and which sometimes appear even without the accompaniment of wind, either before or after. To account for this, it may be noticed, that the waters of the German Ocean or North Sea, from their connection with the Atlantic Ocean, are often affected by gales of westerly winds, which never reach our shores, though they have the effect of forcing an undue portion of the waters of the Atlantic into the British seas, which tend to overfill all the friths and bays, producing the phenomenon of a ground-swell;--a condition of things which may also be supposed to follow from the account given of the gale experienced by the writer off Flamborough-head, on the 19th September 1809, described at page 320.; which might as readily have been checked in its progress, by the contrary wind, before it reached the northern shores, as off the coast of England. This subject is further illustrated by the writer in a paper read before the Wernerian Society, on the bed of the German Ocean, and given in the Appendix, No. V.
[Sidenote: Landing-master’s dress, and activity of his crew.]
The landing-master having this day discharged the Smeaton, and loaded the Hedderwick and Dickie praam-boats with 19 stones, they were towed to their respective moorings; when Captain Wilson, in consequence of the heavy swell of sea, came in his boat to the Beacon-house, to consult with the writer as to the propriety of venturing the loaded praam-boats with their cargoes to the Rock, while so much sea was running. After some dubiety expressed on the subject, in which the ardent mind of the landing-master suggested many arguments in favour of his being able to convey the praams in perfect safety, it was acceded to. In bad weather, and especially on occasions of difficulty like the present, Mr Wilson, who was an extremely active seaman, measuring about 5 feet 3 inches in height, of a robust habit, generally dressed himself in what he called a _Monkey Jacket_, made of thick duffle-cloth, with a pair of Dutchman’s petticoat-trowsers, reaching only to his knees, where they were met with a pair of long water-tight boots; with this dress, his glazed hat, and his small brass speaking-trumpet in his hand, he bade defiance to the weather. When he made his appearance in this most suitable attire for the service, his crew seemed to possess additional life, never failing to use their utmost exertions when the captain put on his “_storm-rigging_.” They had this morning commenced loading the praam-boats at 4 o’clock, and proceeded to tow them into the eastern landing-place, which was accomplished with much dexterity, though not without the risk of being thrown, by the force of the sea, on certain projecting ledges of the rock. In such a case, the loss even of a single stone would have greatly retarded the work. For the greater safety in entering this creek, it was necessary to put out several warps and guy-ropes, to guide the boats into its narrow and intricate entrance; and it frequently happened that the sea made a clean breach over the praams, which not only washed their decks, but completely drenched the crew in water.
[Sidenote: Want of the western wharf.]
On this, as on many other occasions, the want of the western wharf was particularly felt; for, although it had long been used with great advantage in the ordinary traffic of the Rock, and was now carried to its full extent, it was still not fit for all the purposes of landing weighty materials, otherwise the landing operations would have been accomplished with much more ease and facility to-day. So much, however, had been to do in boring the rock, inserting iron-bats and other operations, accessible only at the lowest tides, that, although Mr Watt and his squad of artificers had embraced every opportunity, by day and night,--for this work to the last was carried on by torch light,--yet the wharf of the western railway was not entirely completed.
[Sidenote: Operation of shifting the Balance-crane. Its properties.]
The building-artificers were employed to-day in raising the Balance-crane to the light-room-store, where it was supported upon two beams of oaken timber, which were made to rest upon the outward extremity of the floor, or close to the wall of the house. The removal of the crane from one storey to another was attended with considerable trouble. The body of the crane, as will be understood by examining Plates IX. and XVII., was raised upon the shaft at every two or three courses which were added to the height of the building. This mode might have been continued throughout, without once raising the foot of the crane, by simply adding to the length of the shaft. But, all things taken into view, it was considered preferable to lift the whole machine from floor to floor. This was accomplished in the following manner: Two beams of fir-timber were laid across the walls of the house, on which the body of the crane was rested. This new position did not prevent the purchase-tackle of the crane from being worked, and it was therefore applied to lift the foot and the four lengths of the shaft, which were laid aside till successively wanted in the course of building. The foot, with two lengths of the shaft, being placed upon the oaken beams above alluded to; a cutter or spear-bolt was passed through one of the numerous holes in the shaft; when the beams on which the body of the crane rested on the walls being removed, the crane was again in a complete working condition. The Balance-crane had therefore the property of being applicable to raising itself, from stage to stage, as well as of laying the stones, and preserving its equilibrium when loaded. In case, through inattention or accident, an undue proportion of weight had been brought upon one end of the beam of the crane, as was the case when the door-lintel was laid, four spurs or diagonal supports of oak, were attached to the shaft, the lower ends of which rested upon the floor and butted against the wall, while the upper ends fitted into a collar or circular piece of cast-iron, which embraced the shaft immediately under the body of the crane. These preparatory operations occupied a great part of this day, after which there was no further delay occasioned by the Balance-crane, till it was again to be raised to the next floor, except the occasional lifting of the body, and applying additional lengths to the shaft, as the building rose, things which were accomplished without retarding the work.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 17th.]
[Sidenote: Western wharf finished to-day.]
It was fortunate, in the present state of the weather, that the Fiftieth course was in a sheltered spot, within the reach of the tackle of the winch-machine upon the bridge; a few stones were stowed upon the bridge itself, and the remainder upon the building, which kept the artificers at work. The stowing of the materials upon the Rock, was the department of Alexander Brebner, mason, who spared no pains in attending to the safety of the stones, and who, in the present state of the work, when the stones were landed faster than could be built, generally worked till the water rose to his middle. At 1 o’clock to-day the bell rung for prayers, and all hands were collected into the upper barrack-room of the Beacon-house, when the usual service was performed.
At low-water this afternoon all hands were employed in completing the western wharf,--a work which had now been in progress for a twelvemonth. One of the moveable-beam cranes was elevated on it, under a salute of three hearty cheers. This wharf was formed of timber, consisting of successive layers of Norway logs, like the Eastern Wharf, as represented in Plate XI., which were raised to the level of the Railways, or about 6 feet in height, and fixed down with bat-bars of iron, measuring 7 feet in length, having been sunk about 12 inches into the Rock.
[Sidenote: Remarkable state of the sea at the Bell Rock to-day.]
The wind blew very hard in the course of last night from N.E., and to-day the sea ran so high that no boat could approach the Rock. During the dinner-hour, when the writer was going to the top of the building as usual, but just as he had entered the door, and was about to ascend the ladder, a great noise was heard over-head, and in an instant he was soused in water, from a sea which had most unexpectedly come over the walls, though now about 58 feet in height. On making his retreat, he found himself completely whitened by the lime which had mixed with the water, while dashing down through the different floors; and, as nearly as he could guess, a quantity equal to about a hogshead had come over the walls, and now streamed out at the door. After having shifted himself, he again sat down in his cabin, the sea continuing to run so high that the builders did not resume their operations on the walls this afternoon. The incident just noticed, did not create more surprise in the mind of the writer, than the sublime appearance of the waves, as they rolled majestically over the Rock. This scene he greatly enjoyed while sitting at his cabin window: each wave approached the Beacon like a vast scroll unfolding; and, in passing, discharged a quantity of air, which he not only distinctly felt, but was even sufficient to lift the leaves of a book which lay before him. These waves might be 10 or 12 feet in height, and about 250 feet in length. Their smaller end being towards the north, where the water was deep, and they were opened or cut through by the interposition of the Building and Beacon. The gradual manner in which the sea, upon these occasions, is observed to become calm or to subside, is a very remarkable feature of this phenomenon. For example, when a gale is succeeded by a calm, every third or fourth wave forms one of these great seas, which occur in spaces, of from 3 to 5 minutes, as noted by the writer’s watch; but, in the course of the next tide, they become less frequent, and take off, so as to occur only in 10 or 15 minutes; and, singular enough, at the third tide after such gales, the writer has remarked, that only one or two of these great waves appear in the course of the whole tide.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 21st.]
[Sidenote: Landing-master’s crew have now more leisure.]
From Monday 18th till this date, the work went forward in the usual routine, and the building was now in readiness for the floor of the kitchen or third apartment. In the present state of things, the two stone-vessels Smeaton and Patriot, could not be fully employed, as, owing to the greater height of the building, every operation required much more time, in proportion to the tonnage which the vessels brought off to the Rock. Indeed, the original intention of providing two vessels for this department was chiefly to guard against accident, as, in this service, they were much exposed to danger, in the event of which, without a second vessel, the work must have been arrested in its progress. Having now also the full use of the western creek, the process of landing was seldom delayed, excepting from want of demand on the part of the builders; it was still, nevertheless, necessary to keep up the establishment of shipping, for the reason above stated.
[Sidenote: Disagreeable state of the weather.]
The 19th was a very unpleasant and disagreeable day, both for the seamen and artificers, as it rained throughout with little intermission from 4 A. M. till 11 P. M., accompanied with thunder and lightning, during which period the work nevertheless continued unremittingly; and the builders laid the Fifty-first and Fifty-second courses. This state of weather was no less severe upon the mortar-makers, who required to temper or prepare the mortar of a thicker or thinner consistency, in some measure, according to the state of the weather. From the elevated position of the building, the mortar-gallery on the Beacon was now much lower, and the lime buckets were made to traverse upon a rope distended between it and the building, as will be seen from Plate IX. On occasions like the present, however, there was often a difference of opinion between the builders and the mortar-makers. John Watt, who had the principal charge of the mortar, was a most active worker, but being somewhat of an irascible temper, the builders occasionally amused themselves at his expence. For, while he was eagerly at work with his large iron-shod pestle in the mortar-tub, they often sent down contradictory orders, some crying, “Make it a little stiffer, or thicker, John,” while others called out to make it “thinner;” to which he generally returned very speedy and sharp replies; so that these conversations at times were rather amusing. The brass cases of the upper-hinges of the window of this apartment, occurring in the Fifty-second course, occasioned a good deal of detention, on the 20th, in laying it, when the artificers were employed from 4 in the morning till 9 in the evening.
[Sidenote: Extra pay.]
[Sidenote: Responsible situation of the principal workmen.]
During wet weather, the situation of the artificers on the top of the building was extremely disagreeable; for, although their work did not require great exertion, yet, as each man had his particular part to perform, either in working the crane, or in laying the stones, it required the closest application and attention, not only on the part of Mr Peter Logan, the foreman, who was constantly on the walls, but also of the chief workmen. Robert Selkirk, the principal builder, for example, had every stone to lay in its place. David Cumming, a mason, had the charge of working the tackle of the balance-weight, and James Scott, also a mason, took charge of the purchase with which the stones were laid; while the pointing the joints of the walls with cement, was entrusted to William Reid and William Kennedy, who stood upon a scaffold suspended over the walls in rather a frightful manner. The least act of carelessness or inattention on the part of any of these men might have been fatal, not only to themselves, but also to the surrounding workmen, especially if any accident had happened to the crane itself, while the material damage or loss of a single stone would have put an entire stop to the operations, until another could have been brought from Arbroath. The artificers having wrought seven and a half hours of extra time to-day, had 3s. 9d. of extra pay, while the foremen had 7s. 6d. over and above their stated pay and board. Although, therefore, the work was both hazardous and fatiguing, yet the encouragement being considerable, they were alwise very cheerful, and perfectly reconciled to the confinement, and other disadvantages of the place.
[Sidenote: Carpenter of the Floating-light leaves the service.]
During fine weather, and while the nights were short, the duty on board of the Floating-light was literally nothing but a waiting on, and therefore one of her boats, with a crew of five men, daily attended the Rock, but always returned to the vessel at night. The carpenter, however, was one of those who was left on board of the ship, as he also acted in the capacity of assistant light-keeper; being, besides, a person who was apt to feel discontent, and to be averse to changing his quarters, especially to work with the mill-wrights and joiners at the Rock, who often, for hours together, wrought knee-deep, and not unfrequently up to the middle in water. Mr Watt having, about this time, made a requisition for another hand, the carpenter was ordered to attend the Rock in the Floating-light’s boat. This he did with great reluctance, and found so much fault, that he soon got into discredit with his messmates. On this occasion, he left the Light-house service, and went as a sailor in a vessel bound for America,--a step which, it is believed, he soon regretted, as, in the course of things, he would, in all probability, have accompanied Mr John Reid, the principal Light-keeper of the Floating-light, to the Bell Rock Light-house, as his principal Assistant. The writer had a wish to be of service to this man, as he was one of those who came off to the Floating-light in the month of September 1807, while she was riding at single anchor, after the severe gale of the 7th, at a time when it was hardly possible to make up this vessel’s crew; but the crossness of his manner prevented his reaping the benefit of such intentions.
[Sidenote: Patriot makes a trip to Arbroath and back to the Rock, in 24 hours.]
The trips of the stone-vessels became more and more remarkable for dispatch. The Patriot having only sailed for Arbroath yesterday morning at 8 o’clock, returned this evening at the same hour with a cargo; when the landing-master immediately got his praam-boats alongside, and came to the Rock with 16 stones, 8 joggles, 8 casks of pozzolano, and the same quantity of lime and sand, with seven logs of timber for the Railways, which were immediately taken up to the Beacon, till they were wanted on the Rock. Such, therefore, was the dispatch given to the loading of the materials at Arbroath, together with the persevering activity of Mr Spink,--who had succeeded Mr Macdonald in the command of the Patriot,--and his mate Mr Peter Soutar, that, although she did not reach Arbroath till the morning of the 21st, at 1 o’clock, yet being instantly loaded, she was made fast to her moorings again at the Rock, after an absence of only 24 hours.
[Sidenote: An attempt made to land stones at high-water, with the bridge-apparatus.]
The weather was extremely fine to-day, and the artificers laid the Fifty-sixth course, or kitchen-floor, forming, like the other floors of the building, a part also of the outward wall. For supporting the inward extremity of these long stones, until a sufficient weight was built upon the exterior wall, the joiners had erected a piece of frame-work on the floor below on which they rested. This morning at 4 o’clock, the landing-master’s crew had commenced their operations, and by 12 noon 34 stones were landed, together with the several articles mentioned above, which discharged the Patriot, and she again sailed for Arbroath. An attempt was made to-day to land materials at high-water with the bridge-apparatus; but, although the water was smooth, yet there was a certain _lift in the sea_, which occasionally brought a sudden strain on the frame of the bridge, and made the whole shake and jerk in such a manner as to communicate a considerable degree of tremor to the whole fabric of the Beacon-house, shewing that this mode of landing weighty stones could hardly be ventured upon, even in the very finest weather.
[Sidenote: Progress of landing the stones. The Seamen become discontented.]
The building operations had for some time proceeded more slowly, from the higher parts of the Light-house requiring much longer time than an equal tonnage of the lower courses. The duty of the landing-master’s crew had, upon the whole, been easy of late; for, though the work was occasionally irregular, yet the stones being lighter, they were more speedily lifted from the hold of the stone-vessel to the deck of the praam-boat, and again to the waggons on the railway, after which they came properly under the charge of the foreman-builder; the artificers working the several purchase-tackles in raising the stones through the successive stages, from the railways to the bridge, and from thence to the top of the building, as represented in Plates IX. and XVIII. It is, however, a strange, though not an uncommon feature in the human character, that when people have least to complain of, they are most apt to become dissatisfied, as was now the case with the seamen employed in the Bell Rock service, about their rations of beer. Indeed, ever since the carpenter of the Floating-light, formerly noticed, had been brought to the Rock, expressions of discontent had been manifested upon various occasions. This being represented to the writer, he sent for Captain Wilson, the landing-master, and Mr Taylor, commander of the Tender, with whom he talked over the subject. They stated, that they considered the daily allowance of the seamen in every respect ample, and that the work being now much lighter than formerly, they had no just ground for complaint; Mr Taylor adding, that if those who now complained “were even to be fed upon soft bread and turkeys, they would not think themselves right.” At 12 noon, as before noticed, the work of the landing-master’s crew was completed for the day. But at 4 o’clock, while the Rock was under water, those on the Beacon were surprised by the arrival of a boat from the Tender, without any signal having been made from the Beacon. It, however, brought the following note to the writer from the landing-master’s crew.
_Sir Joseph Banks, Tender._
“SIR,
“We are informed by our masters, that our allowance is to be as before, and it is not sufficient to serve us, for we have been at work since 4 o’clock this morning, and we have come on board to dinner, and there is no beer for us before to-morrow morning, to which a sufficient answer is required before we go from the Beacon; and we are, Sir, your most obedient servants.”
On reading this, the writer returned a verbal message, intimating, that an answer would be sent on board of the Tender, at the same time ordering the boat instantly to quit the Beacon. He then addressed the following note to the landing-master.
[Sidenote: Correspondence with the Landing-master.]
“_Beacon-house, 22d June 1810, 5 o’clock, P. M._
“SIR,
“I have just now received a letter purporting to be from the landing-master’s crew and seamen on board of the Sir Joseph Banks, though without either date or signature; in answer to which, I inclose a statement of the daily allowance of provisions for the seamen in this service, which you will post up in the ship’s-galley, and at 7 o’clock this evening I will come on board to enquire into this unexpected and most unnecessary demand for an additional allowance of beer. In the inclosed, you will not find any alteration from the original statement, fixed in the galley at the beginning of the season. I have, however, judged this mode of giving your people an answer, preferable to that of conversing with them on the Beacon. I am, Sir, your most obedient servant,
“_To Captain Wilson_.
ROBERT STEVENSON.”
“_Beacon-house, 22d June 1810._--SCHEDULE of the daily Allowance of Provisions to be served out on board of the Sir Joseph Banks Tender.”--“1½ lb. beef; 1 lb. bread; 8 oz. oatmeal; 2 oz. barley; 2 oz. butter; 3 quarts beer; vegetables and salt no stated allowance. When the seamen are employed in unloading the Smeaton and Patriot, a draught of beer is, as formerly, to be allowed from the stock of these vessels. Further, in wet and stormy weather, or when the work commences very early in the morning, or continues till a late hour at night, a glass of spirits will also be served out to the crew as heretofore, on the requisition of the Landing-master.”
“ROBERT STEVENSON.”
[Sidenote: Writer goes on board of the Tender.]
On writing this letter and schedule, a signal was made on the Beacon for the landing-master’s boat, which immediately came to the Rock, and the schedule was afterwards stuck up in the Tender’s galley. When sufficient time had been allowed to the crew to consider of their conduct, a second signal was made for a boat, and at 7 o’clock the writer left the Bell Rock, after a residence of four successive weeks in the Beacon-house. The first thing which occupied his attention on board of the Tender, was to look round upon the Light-house, which he saw with some degree of emotion and surprise, now vieing in height with the Beacon-house; for, although he had often viewed it from the extremity of the western Railway on the Rock, yet the scene, upon the whole, seemed far more interesting from the Tender’s moorings, at the distance of about half a mile.
[Sidenote: Two of the Seamen are dismissed the service.]
The Smeaton having just arrived at her moorings with a cargo, a signal was made for Captain Pool to come on board of the Tender, that he might be at hand to remove from the service any of those who might persist in their discontented conduct. One of the two principal leaders in this affair, being the master of one of the praam-boats, and who had also steered the boat which brought the letter to the Beacon, was first called upon deck, and asked if he had read the statement fixed up in the galley this afternoon, and whether he was satisfied with it. He replied that he had read the paper, but was not satisfied, as it held out no alteration on the allowance; on which he was immediately ordered into the Smeaton’s boat. The next man called had but lately entered the service, and being also interrogated as to his resolution, he declared himself to be of the same mind with the Praam-master, and was also forthwith ordered into the boat. The writer, without calling any more of the seamen, went forward to the gangway, where they were collected, and listening to what was passing upon deck: he addressed them at the hatchway, and stated that two of their companions had just been dismissed the service, and sent on board of the Smeaton, to be conveyed to Arbroath. He therefore wished each man to consider for himself, how far it would be proper, by any unreasonableness of conduct, to place themselves in a similar situation, especially as they were aware that it was optional in him either to dismiss them, or send them on board a Man-of-war. It might appear that much inconveniency would be felt at the Rock by a change of hands at this critical period, by checking for a time the progress of a building so intimately connected with the best interests of navigation; yet this would be but of a temporary nature, while the injury to themselves might be irreparable. It was now, therefore, required of any man who, in this disgraceful manner, chose to leave the service, that he should instantly make his appearance upon deck, while the Smeaton’s boat was alongside. But those below having expressed themselves satisfied with their situation, viz. William Brown, George Gibb, Alexander Scott, John Dick, Robert Couper, Alexander Shephard, James Grieve, David Carey, William Pearson, Stuart Eaton, Alexander Lawrence, and John Spink, were accordingly considered as having returned to their duty. This disposition to mutiny, which had so strongly manifested itself, being now happily suppressed, Captain Pool got orders to proceed for Arbroath Bay, and land the two men he had on board, and to deliver the following letter at the office of the work-yard.
“_On Board of the Tender off the Bell Rock, 22d June 1810. 8 o’clock P. M._
“DEAR SIR,
“A discontented and mutinous spirit having manifested itself of late, among the Landing-master’s crew, they struck work to-day, and demanded an additional allowance of beer, and I have found it necessary to dismiss D----d and M----e, who are now sent on shore with the Smeaton. You will, therefore, be so good as to pay them their wages, including this day only. Nothing can be more unreasonable than the conduct of the seamen on this occasion, as the landing-master’s crew not only had their own allowance on board of the Tender, but, in the course of this day, they had drawn no fewer than 24 quart pots of beer from the stock of the Patriot, while unloading her.
“I remain, yours truly, “ROBERT STEVENSON.”
“_To Mr Lachlan Kennedy, } Bell-Rock Office, Arbroath._” }
On dispatching this letter to Mr Kennedy, the writer returned to the Beacon about 9 o’clock, where this afternoon’s business had produced many conjectures, especially when the Smeaton got under way, instead of proceeding to land her cargo. The bell on the Beacon being rung, the artificers were assembled on the bridge, when the affair was explained to them. He, at the same time, congratulated them upon the first appearance of mutiny being happily set at rest by the dismissal of its two principal abettors.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 23d.]
[Sidenote: Progress of the Works at Arbroath.]
The Smeaton having landed the disaffected men and delivered the letter, returned to the Bell Rock last evening at 8 o’clock, when the landing-master and his crew immediately proceeded to discharge her, leaving the loaded praams at their moorings for the night. By letters from the work-yard from Mr David Logan, clerk of works, the writer learned, that, when the two courses which the stone-cutters had now in hand were completed, there would only be one more to prepare, and that already several of the masons were about to be paid off.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 24th.]
[Sidenote: The Works are visited by Mr Murdoch of Soho.]
At the Rock, the landing of the materials, and the building operations of the light-room-store, went on successfully, and in a way similar to those of the provision-store. To-day it blew fresh breezes; but the seamen nevertheless landed 28 stones, and the artificers built the Fifty-eighth and Fifty-ninth courses. The works were visited by Mr Murdoch junior, from Messrs Boulton and Watt’s works of Soho. He landed just as the bell rung for prayers; after which the writer enjoyed much pleasure from his very intelligent conversation: and having been almost the only stranger he had seen for some weeks, he parted with him, after a short interview, with much regret.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 27th.]
[Sidenote: Sixty-second course laid.]
There were 46 pieces of stone landed to-day, 16 of which were built, being the Sixty-second course, in which the upper brass cases for the hinges of the storm-shutters occurred, each of which weighed about 25 lb., or 100 lb. for the four cases with their hinges. The sole or foot of the balance-crane was also shifted, an operation which became necessary at the height of about every 16 feet of the Light-house; and it was now raised from the store-room to the kitchen-floor. The shaft of the crane consisted of one piece of 8 feet, and three of 6 feet, making its whole length 26 feet, of which, about 7 feet were occupied with the body and foot of the crane. The operations of laying the courses in which the hinge-cases of the storm-shutters of the different windows occurred, like those of the entrance-door, being very tedious, the Beacon-bell was rung this morning at the very early hour of 3 o’clock, and as the work continued till half-past 9 at night, the artificers had 8 hours and a half’s extra work, which yielded them 4s. 3d. of extra pay.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 28th.]
[Sidenote: Workmen wetted by the sea on the top of the walls.]
The Sixty-third and Sixty-fourth courses were laid to-day, consisting of 16 stones each. Last night the wind had shifted to north-east, and blowing fresh, was accompanied with a heavy surf upon the Rock. Towards high water it had a very grand and wonderful appearance. Waves of considerable magnitude rose as high as the solid or level of the entrance-door, which, being open to the south-west, was fortunately to the leeward; but on the windward side, the sprays flew like lightning up the sloping sides of the building; and although the walls were now elevated 64 feet above the Rock, and about 52 feet from high-water mark, yet the artificers were nevertheless wetted, and occasionally interrupted in their operations on the top of the walls. These appearances were in a great measure new at the Bell Rock, there having till of late been no building to conduct the seas, or object to compare them with. Although, from the description of the Edystone Light-house, the mind was prepared for such effects, yet they were not expected to the present extent, in the summer season; the sea being most awful to-day, whether observed from the Beacon or the Building. To windward, the sprays fell from the height above noticed, in the most wonderful cascades, and streamed down the walls of the building in froth as white as snow. To leeward of the Light-house, the collision or meeting of the waves produced a pure white kind of _drift_, which is attempted to be represented in the Frontispiece to this work: it rose about 30 feet in height, like a fine downy mist, which, in its fall, felt upon the face and hands more like a dry powder than a liquid substance. The effects of these seas, as they ranged among the beams, and dashed upon the higher parts of the Beacon, produced a temporary tremulous motion throughout the whole fabric, which to a stranger must have been frightful.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 30th.]
[Sidenote: Mr John Reid’s Report on the Floating-light.]
The artificers laid the Sixty-fifth course to-day, forming the fourth or bed-room floor. They had, however, no extra hours’ work, a circumstance which had not occurred for several weeks before. Although, from the rapid progress which was now making with the Building, there was every prospect that it would be finished in the course of this year; yet, as the Light-room and its apparatus were very critical parts of the operation, which would necessarily fall to be transported to the Rock at a late period of the season, and were, consequently, liable to many casualties, it was proper to make provision for continuing the Floating-light for another winter, in case the light should not be exhibited from the Light-house. This vessel had now been on her station for three years; and as she lay at anchor in 19 fathoms water, it had, consequently, been impossible thoroughly to examine her bottom. What rendered her state more uncertain, was the condition of the logs of timber employed for supporting the temporary Railways on the Rock for nearly a similar period. These logs were of the common Norway-fir, and when laid down measured about ten inches upon each side; but after lying about three years on the Rock, they were so much wasted by the small insect formerly mentioned, that they would not now square to more than 7 inches, without leaving traces of the ravages of this animal, having thereby lost at the rate of about one-half inch on each side of sound timber per annum. Directions had been given to Mr John Reid, who, during the summer months, had the command of the Floating-light, and who was also professionally a ship-carpenter, to take a convenient opportunity of trimming the vessel, in such a manner as to give her a _list_ first to one side and then to the other, so as to get her bottom as fully examined as possible. This having been done, Mr Reid intimated that he considered her in a sound state. The writer accordingly left the Beacon-house to-day, accompanied by the landing-master, to see some of the side-planks which had been _dubbed_ or dressed with a carpenter’s adze, and, on examination, he had the satisfaction to find that they appeared perfectly fresh. This was a matter of some consequence to the work, as it must have been attended with great inconvenience, to have removed such a vessel as the Floating-light, and put another in her place, even for a short period. After this inspection, the writer returned to the Rock, having previously requested of Mr Reid to make a report in writing, which he did in the following terms:
“_Pharos Floating-Light, off the Bell Rock, 30th June 1810._
“SIR,
“According to your orders, I have, on several occasions, during this month, _careened_ the Float, and inspected her bottom as much as possible while the vessel is at anchor; but I can see no appearance of the wood-worm in any part of it. There is indeed plenty of sea-weed, mussels, and red-worms (creatures with many feet), but it is not this kind of worm that perforates the planks of shipping; and as this destructive animal generally makes its appearance between wind and water, I am apt to believe that the Pharos’ bottom is perfectly sound and healthy. With regard to the beam and knee observed to be _working_ a little, I will send a note of the scantling of the timber that will be necessary for securing it, to Mr Dickie, the carpenter, at Arbroath. I, for one, have no objections to another winter on board, without further repairs; for though she rolls heavily in the trough of the sea, yet she has, upon the whole, been a very kindly ship to me.--I am, Sir, your most obedient servant,
“To Mr Stevenson.
JOHN REID, _Carpenter_.”
[Sidenote: 1810, July.]
[Sidenote: Narrow escape of one of the Masons.]
While William Kennedy, one of the masons, was stepping off the bridge into the entrance-door of the Light-house, one of the cast-iron slips of the balance-weight of the crane, weighing about 70 lb., fell from the top of the building and grazed his left shoulder, but, fortunately, in so gentle a manner, that it hardly ruffled the skin; a few inches nearer, it would have carried away his arm or killed him on the spot.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 1st.]
[Sidenote: Writer describes his Cabin.]
The artificers laid 12 stones to-day, and the seamen landed no fewer than 34 blocks.--The writer had now been at the Bell Rock since the latter end of May, or about six weeks, during four of which he had been a constant inhabitant of the Beacon, without having been once off the Rock. After witnessing the laying of the Sixty-seventh or second Course of the bed-room apartment, he left the Rock with the Tender, and went ashore, as some arrangements were to make for the future conduct of the works at Arbroath, which were soon to be brought to a close; the landing-master’s crew having, in the mean time, shifted on board of the Patriot. In leaving the Rock, the writer kept his eyes fixed upon the Light-house, which had recently got into the form of a house, having several tiers or storeys of windows. Nor was he unmindful of his habitation in the Beacon, now far overtoped by the masonry; where he had spent several weeks in a kind of active retirement, making practical experiment of the fewness of the positive wants of man. His cabin measured not more than 4 feet 3 inches in breadth on the floor; and though, from the oblique direction of the beams of the Beacon, it widened towards the top, yet it did not admit of the full extension of his arms when he stood on the floor; while its length was little more than sufficient for suspending a cot-bed during the night, calculated for being triced up to the roof through the day, which left free room for the admission of occasional visitants. His folding-table was attached with hinges, immediately under the small window of the apartment, and his books, barometer, thermometer, portmanteau, and two or three camp-stools, formed the bulk of his moveables. His diet being plain, the paraphernalia of the table were proportionally simple; though every thing had the appearance of comfort, and even of neatness, the walls being covered with green cloth, formed into pannels with red tape, and his bed festooned with curtains of yellow cotton-stuff. If, in speculating upon the abstract wants of man in such a state of exclusion, one were reduced to a single book, the Sacred Volume, whether considered for the striking diversity of its story,--the morality of its doctrine,--or the important truths of its Gospel, would have proved by far the greatest treasure.
[Sidenote: Monday, 2d.]
[Sidenote: Case of George Dall, an impressed seaman.]
In walking over the work-yard at Arbroath this morning, the writer found that the stones of the course immediately under the cornice were all in hand, and that a week’s work would now finish the whole; while the intermediate courses lay ready numbered and marked for shipping to the Rock. Among other subjects which had occupied his attention to-day, was a visit from some of the relations of George Dall, a young man who had been impressed near Dundee in the month of February last: A dispute had arisen between the Magistrates of that borough and the Regulating Officer as to his right of impressing Dall, who was _bona fide_ one of the protected seamen in the Bell Rock service. In the mean time, the poor lad was detained, and ultimately committed to the prison of Dundee, to remain until the question should be tried before the Court of Session. His friends were naturally very desirous to have him relieved upon bail. But as this was only to be done by the judgment of the Court, all that could be said was, that his pay and allowances should be continued in the same manner as if he had been upon the sick-list. The circumstances of Dall’s case, were briefly these. He had gone to see some of his friends in the neighbourhood of Dundee, in winter, while the works were suspended, having got leave of absence from Mr Taylor, who commanded the Bell Rock Tender, and had in his possession one of the Protection Medals, represented in Plate XII., and alluded to at page 209. Unfortunately, however, for Dall, the Regulating-Officer thought proper to disregard these documents, as, according to the strict and literal interpretation of the Admiralty regulations, a seaman does not stand protected unless he is actually on board of his ship, or in a boat belonging to her, or has the Admiralty-protection in his possession. This order of the Board, however, cannot be rigidly followed in practice; and therefore, when the matter is satisfactorily stated to the Regulating-Officer, the impressed man is generally liberated. But in Dall’s case this was peremptorily refused, and he was retained at the instance of the Magistrates. The writer having brought the matter under the consideration of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, they authorised it to be tried on the part of the Light-house Board, as one of extreme hardship. The Court, upon the first hearing, ordered Dall to be liberated from prison; and the proceedings never went further.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 3rd.]
[Sidenote: Magistrates of Arbroath visit the Bell Rock.]
During the three years in which the operations of the Bell Rock Light-house had been in progress, the Magistrates of the Royal Burgh of Arbroath, where the work-yard was established, had shewn the utmost attention in forwarding the works, by every means in their power. In particular, a free or peculiar birth had been given to the vessels of the Light-house service, where a crane was permitted to be erected; and the building materials were allowed to be reshipped for the Light-house, without any additional charge for shore-dues. Indeed, the whole community of this town seemed to view the work, and those concerned with the operations, in a very favourable manner. The writer was therefore happy, at this time, in having an opportunity of giving effect to an arrangement long talked of, with the Magistrates and some of their friends, of taking a sail to the Bell Rock, to see the progress of the works. This having been accordingly intimated to Provost Airth, he gladly embarked in the Tender, along with two of the former Chief-Magistrates, Balfour and Milne, and Bailies Duncan, Fleming, Anson, Wightman, and Kid, together with Mr John Colville, Town-Clerk, Messrs Bruce, Bell, Balfour, Johnston, Christie and Lindsay, &c. in all sixteen. The vessel sailed from Arbroath at an early hour, but the weather became thick and foggy, with the wind at S.E., and it was 2 o’clock P. M., before she reached her moorings at the Rock, which being then covered with water, the party had to wait till about 6 before a landing could be made. During these four hours, the vessel had a very unpleasant rolling motion: the party cast many a weary look towards the Rock for its appearance; and, on landing, much satisfaction was expressed at getting a firm footing upon the railways. The party soon began to clamber up to the Beacon, and, after examining all its parts, crossed the bridge, but only a few ventured to the top of Light-house, from the narrowness of the passages, and difficult position of the ladders. After spending fully three hours upon the Rock, the water began to rise upon the Railways, when the gentlemen again embarked, and were greeted with cheers from the workmen. The wind being fair, and the weather pleasant, the Tender soon reached Arbroath, when the party landed, much delighted with their trip, while the writer was not a little pleased at having thus had an opportunity of gratifying so many of his friends.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 3d.]
[Sidenote: Number of Artificers on the Rock reduced to 22.]
The artificers had yesterday laid the Sixty-eighth course of the building, consisting of 16 stones, of which 10 had also been landed. The Tender having returned from Arbroath this afternoon, the landing-master’s crew left the Patriot, and took up their quarters again on board of the Tender. The artificers lodged in the Beacon had of late varied from twenty-six to thirty-one in number; but the Railways being finished, the work now admitted of their being reduced to twenty-two. During the time that the Rock was covered with water, and materials could not be landed, the masons were employed in dressing off and repolishing any inequalities which appeared on the interior walls of the different apartments. The raising of stones from the waggons on the Rock to the top of the building, now about 80 feet in height, had become rather a tedious operation. The lift with the balance-crane in particular being upwards of 45 feet, it required some precaution and trouble in coiling such a length of chain upon the barrel. It therefore became necessary to lessen this operation, by placing a winch-machine on the store-room floor, and projecting a beam from the western window, to form a stage in taking up the stones, as will be understood by examining the third year’s work of Plate IX., and the general view of the operations at the Rock represented in Plate XVIII.
[Sidenote: Narrow escape of the Smeaton at the Bell Rock. Advantage of Alarm-bells.]
Being now within twelve courses of being ready for building the cornice, measures were taken for getting the stones of it and the parapet-wall of the Light-room brought from Edinburgh, where, as before noticed, they had been prepared, and were in readiness for shipping. The honour of conveying the upper part of the Light-house, and of landing the last stone of the building on the Rock, was considered to belong to Captain Pool of the Smeaton, who had been longer in the service than the master of the Patriot. The Smeaton was therefore now partly loaded with old iron, consisting of broken railways and other lumber, which had been lying about the Rock. After landing these at Arbroath, she took on board James Craw, with his horse and cart, which could now be spared at the work-yard, to be employed in carting the stones from Edinburgh to Leith. Alexander Davidson and William Kennedy, two careful masons, were also sent to take charge of the loading of the stones at Greenside, and stowing them on board of the vessel at Leith. The writer also went on board, with a view to call at the Bell Rock, and to take his passage up the Firth of Forth. The wind, however, coming to blow very fresh from the eastward, with thick and foggy weather, it became necessary to reef the mainsail, and set the second-jib. When in the act of making a tack towards the Tender, the sailors who worked the head sheets were all of a sudden alarmed with the sound of the smith’s hammer and anvil on the Beacon, and had just time to put the ship about to save her from running ashore on the north western point of the Rock, marked “James Craw’s horse,” in Plate VI. On looking towards the direction from whence the sound came, the Building and Beacon-house were seen, with consternation, while the ship was hailed by those on the Rock, who were no less confounded at seeing the near approach of the Smeaton, and, just as the vessel cleared the danger, the smith and those in the mortar-galley made signs in token of their happiness at our fortunate escape. From this occurrence the writer had an experimental proof of the utility of the large Bells which were in preparation to be rung by the machinery of the Revolving-light; for, had it not been the sound of the smith’s anvil, the Smeaton, in all probability, would have been wrecked upon the Rock. In case the vessel had struck, those on board might have been safe, having now the Beacon-house as a place of refuge; but the vessel, which was going at a great velocity, must have suffered severely, and it was more than probable that the horse would have been drowned, there being no means of getting him out of the vessel. Of this valuable animal and his master, both delineated in Plate X., we shall take an opportunity of saying more in another part of the work.
[Sidenote: The Artificers on the Beacon greatly alarmed.]
The weather cleared up in the course of the night, but the wind shifted to the N.E., and blew very fresh: and it was with difficulty that a communication could be made with the Tender, after which the Smeaton bore away for Leith about 7 A. M. At 9 she was abreast of Fifeness, and at half-past 1 P. M. got safely into Leith harbour, after a passage of about six hours, which was fully the quickest which the writer had made from the Bell Rock to Leith, a distance of about 88 miles. From the force of the wind, being now the period of spring-tides, a very heavy swell was experienced at the Rock: at 2 o’clock on the following morning, the people on the Beacon were in a state of great alarm about their safety, as the sea had broke up part of the floor of the mortar-gallery, which was thus cleared of the lime-casks, and other buoyant articles; and the alarm-bell being rung, all hands were called to render what assistance was in their power for the safety of themselves and the materials. At this time, some would willingly have left the Beacon and gone into the Building: the sea, however, ran so high, that there was no passage along the bridge of communication; and when the interior of the Light-house came to be examined in the morning, it appeared that great quantities of water had come over the walls, now 80 feet in height, and had run down through the several apartments, and out at the entrance-door. From this state of things the work was stopped for two days, in the course of which the joiners got the mortar-gallery refitted, and the landing-master’s crew supplied it with a fresh stock of materials for making mortar. Notwithstanding this state of the sea upon the Rock, the Tender and Patriot still kept at their moorings. Such, indeed, was the practice of the seamen, in this kind of life, that, unless when the wind blew from N.W., or in such a direction as made the vessels ride with their sterns towards the Rock, they never thought of moving from their moorings, unless the vessels were deeply loaded.
[Sidenote: Progress of the Light-room works.]
On reaching Edinburgh, the writer found the Light-room and Reflecting-apparatus in considerable forwardness at the Greenside Company’s works. He had also received advice from Prescot, that the plate-glass for the windows would soon be in a state of readiness; and Messrs Meirs and Son of London intimated, that they would cast the Bells at any time, on receiving a week or ten days notice. The only article connected with the light-room, regarding which there was a doubt, was the coloured glass for distinguishing the light, which had long since been commissioned from Mr Okey of London, who, though a very ingenious artist, was rather an irregular correspondent.
[Sidenote: Works at Arbroath completed.]
The upper course of the Light-house at the work-yard of Arbroath, was completed on the 6th, and the whole of the stones were therefore now ready for being shipped to the Rock. The operations of the hewers or stone-cutters were thus brought very nearly to a close: only the 23 steps of the stone staircase of the Light-house remained to be dressed; and this piece of work was reserved for some of the principal masons, on their return from the Rock, as the steps could not be conveniently built until the balance-crane and other bulky apparatus were removed from the building. From the present state of the works, it was impossible that the two squads of artificers at Arbroath and the Bell Rock could meet together at this period; and as, in public works of this kind, which had continued for a series of years, it is not customary to allow the men to separate without what is termed a “Finishing-pint,” five guineas were for this purpose placed at the disposal of Mr David Logan, clerk of works. With this sum the stone-cutters at Arbroath had a merry-meeting in their barrack, collected their sweethearts and friends, and concluded their labours with a dance. It was remarked, however, that their happiness on this occasion was not without alloy. The consideration of parting, and leaving a steady and regular employment, to go in quest of work, and mix with other society, after having been harmoniously lodged for years together in one large “Guildhall or Barrack,” was rather painful. The completion of this part of the work at Arbroath was felt as an era in the Light-house affairs, by admitting of the discharge of so considerable a number of the artificers. Mr David Logan, by this means also, got off to the Bell Rock, having been hitherto chiefly confined to the operations ashore.
[Sidenote: Mr Smeaton’s daughter visits the Light-house works at Edinburgh.]
While the writer was at Edinburgh, he was fortunate enough to meet with Mrs Dickson, only daughter of the late celebrated Mr Smeaton, whose works at the Edystone Light-house had been of such essential consequence to the operations at the Bell Rock. Even her own elegant accomplishments are identified with her father’s work, she having herself made the drawing of the vignette on the title-page of the Narrative of the Edystone Light-house. Every admirer of the works of that singularly eminent man, must also feel an obligation to her for the very comprehensive and distinct account given of his life, which is attached to his Reports, published in three volumes quarto, by the Society of Civil Engineers. Mrs Dickson being, at this time, returning from a tour to the Hebrides and Western Highlands of Scotland, had heard of the Bell Rock works, and from their similarity to those of the Edystone, was strongly impressed with the desire of visiting the spot. But, on inquiring for the writer at Edinburgh, and finding from him that the upper part of the Light-house, consisting of nine courses, might be seen in the immediate vicinity, and also, that one of the vessels which, in compliment to her father’s memory, had been named “The Smeaton,” might also now be seen in Leith,--she considered herself extremely fortunate; and having first visited the works at Greenside, she afterwards went to Leith to see “The Smeaton,” then loading for the Bell Rock. On stepping on board, Mrs Dickson seemed to be quite overcome with so many concurrent circumstances, tending in a peculiar manner to revive and enliven the memory of her departed father; and, on leaving the vessel, she would not be restrained from presenting the crew with a piece of money. “The Smeaton” had been named spontaneously, from a sense of the obligation which a public work of the description of the Bell Rock owed to the labours and the abilities of Mr Smeaton. The writer certainly never could have anticipated the satisfaction which he this day felt, in witnessing the pleasure it afforded to the only representative of this great man’s family. Mrs Dickson’s stay in Edinburgh was short, as, in seeing so much of the Bell Rock works, she had accomplished the chief object which brought her to this side of the country. On her return to the neighbourhood of Kendal, the place of her residence, she had the kindness to send the writer a portrait of her father, together with the vignette of the Edystone Light-house.
[Sidenote: Mr David Logan joins the Works at the Rock.]
At the Bell Rock, Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, was reinforced by the able and active exertions of his son Mr David Logan, who was now relieved from attendance at the work-yard of Arbroath, where the stone-cutters had just completed their operations. In the mean time, the walls of the Light-house were progressively rising, and, on Friday the 6th, the artificers laid the Seventy-first course, consisting of 16 stones, and shifted the foot of the Balance-crane from the kitchen to the bed-room, about 42 feet above the bridge. A considerable time was, therefore, occupied in raising a stone from thence to the top of the building. To remedy this, as formerly alluded to, a beam was projected from the western window of the light-room store, where a winch-machine and apparatus were placed, with which the stones were raised from the bridge to the level of the window-sill. The chain of the balance-crane was then lowered, and hooked into the Lewis-bat of the stone, which was thus hoisted up, and laid in its place on the building, as will be fully understood by examining the progress of the work in Plate IX. This additional tackle from the store-room window gave a wonderful facility to the operation of raising the stones; for, though the time of working upon the walls of the building was now extended to the whole day, yet the period of landing the materials upon the Rock was still unavoidably confined to the few hours during which it was left by the tide at low-water.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 7th.]
[Sidenote: The Patriot is seven days in being cleared of a cargo.]
The landing-master’s crew commenced at 4 o’clock this morning, and transported 24 blocks of stone and 8 dove-tailed joggles to the Rock in the course of the day, which cleared the Patriot of her cargo, when she sailed for Arbroath, having now been no less than 7 days on the birth. This was, therefore, the most tedious trip since the first cargo of this season, which, as before noticed, had been on board of the Smeaton for 11 days. The stones landed to-day could not be raised to the top of the building, as the joiners had possession of the upper apartment, where they were fixing the framing used for supporting the floor-stones, while building. The stones were, in the mean time, left chiefly on the Rock, though a few were laid upon the bridge.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.]
[Sidenote: Progress of raising the Stones.]
To-day the Seventy-second course was laid. The mill-wrights, in the mean time, made preparations for fitting up another winch-apparatus on the bed-room floor, similar to that already described for the store-room, by projecting a beam from its western window, which was to form another stage for lifting the materials. When, therefore, a stone was landed on the Rock, and conveyed along the Railways, within reach of the winch-apparatus upon the bridge, and raised to its level, it was next hooked by the chain of the winch on the store-room floor: having attained that height, it was laid hold of by the chain of the machinery on the bed-room floor; and last of all, it was hooked to the chain of the balance-crane, by which it was raised to the top of the walls and laid in its place. The series of machinery now in motion on the Bell Rock, was very complete, and gave great facility to the landing of the materials. A set of tackle was at work at the landing-cranes on the eastern and western side of the Rock, for lifting the stones from on board of the Praam-boats, and laying them on the waggons: from thence they were wheeled along the Railways to the bridge; from which they were successively lifted, as has been described, by the machinery upon it; then by that in the store-room; next by that in the bed-room, and last of all by the balance-crane,--as will be more particularly seen in the third year’s work of Plate IX., and in the General View of the Works, Plate XVIII.
[Sidenote: Monday, 9th.]
[Sidenote: Last cargo of stone shipped at Arbroath.]
At Arbroath, the Patriot had now loaded the last cargo of building materials from that port, consisting of 65 pieces of stone, 4 dove-tailed joggles, 18 casks of pozzolano, lime, sand, and cement, with three cart-loads of timber, and the necessary supplies of provisions for the Tender and Beacon-house. From the interest which the inhabitants of Arbroath took in all that concerned the Bell Rock Light-house, it soon became generally known that the last cargo from the work-yard was loading. Upon this occasion, the ships in the harbour hoisted their colours, in compliment to the approaching termination of the works; and, at 7 P. M., a great concourse of people collected on the quays, who united in giving three hearty cheers, as the Patriot sailed from the harbour. At the Bell Rock, the building-artificers were at a stand to-day for want of materials, and were employed in dressing off and polishing the interior of the building, while the landing-master’s crew were removing lumber from the Rock, which, for the present, was put on board of the Tender. The joiners and mill-wrights were occupied in framing a centre for building the dome-roof of the library.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 10th.]
The Patriot reached her moorings this morning, but it was then blowing a fresh gale from W.S.W., and the Tender’s boat had much difficulty in getting her hawser _reeved_ through the eye-bolt of the floating-buoy. No materials could be landed on the Rock to-day.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 11th.]
The weather being moderate, with the wind at S.E., the landing-master’s crew proceeded this morning to discharge the Patriot at the early hour of 3 o’clock; and in the course of the day, 30 blocks and 2 dove-tailed joggles of stone, and 7 casks of pozzolano, lime, and sand, were landed, besides some timber, which occupied them till 8 o’clock P. M., with little intermission. During this time also, the artificers laid the Seventy-third course, consisting of 16 stones.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 12th.]
[Sidenote: Library Floor laid.]
The building-artificers laid the Seventy-fourth course to-day, being the floor of the library or strangers’ room, which, like the others, consisted altogether of 18 stones; but of the floor courses, as before noticed, only sixteen stones were laid in the first instance, the centre and the stone connected with the man-hole being left for the conveniency of moving the machinery as the building advanced in height. The seamen landed 25 blocks of stone, and the remaining 2 dove-tailed joggles which discharged the Patriot; and at 2 P. M. she sailed for Leith, to load a cargo of the upper courses of the Light-house, which had been worked at Edinburgh. The artificers on the Rock were now reduced to 22, there having been 6 of their number sent ashore at this time. The Smeaton having loaded 48 stones at Leith, with sundry other materials, arrived to-day at the Bell Rock; but the praams were still at their moorings, loaded with part of the former cargo, which the builders could not yet receive.
[Sidenote: Friday, 13th.]
To-day the building-artificers laid the Seventy-fifth and Seventy-sixth courses, consisting each of 12 stones, and the seamen landed 11 stones, being the remainder of the Patriot’s cargo.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 14th.]
The Seventy-seventh and Seventy-eighth courses were laid to-day: the landing-master’s crew discharged 26 blocks of stone, and 20 dove-tailed joggles from the Smeaton, and landed them on the Rock. As it blew very fresh from the S.W., it was a hard day’s work for the seamen, who commenced this morning as early as 2 o’clock to load the praam-boats, and it was between 7 and 8 in the evening before the boats returned on board of the Tender for the night.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 15th.]
The artificers laid the Seventy-ninth and Eightieth courses to-day, consisting of 12 stones each, and had no less than seven and a half hours of extra time, having been at work from 4 o’clock this morning till 9 in the evening, owing to some difficulty which occurred in laying the course, in which the upper storm-hinge cases occurred.
[Sidenote: Monday, 16th.]
[Sidenote: Ring-bar course laid.]
[Sidenote: Floors described.]
The artificers laid the Eighty-first course, consisting of 12 stones from Craigleith Quarry, being one of these worked at Edinburgh, in which a groove, for an iron-ring, was cut, as an additional security for the superincumbent weight of the cornice. In the First course of the Dome of St Paul’s of London, a continuous chain had been sunk into a groove, in order to bind the haunches of the arch more firmly together. Mr Smeaton, alluding to this in his Narrative, also inserted a chain into each of his floor-courses at the Edystone Light-house. Being of an arched form, these chains inserted into grooves, cut in the haunch-courses of arches, have a tendency to counteract their pressure outwards. At the Bell Rock, the writer, however, designed the floors in such a manner that each projected from the outward wall of the building towards the centre, and the whole being grooved in a lateral direction, in the joints, like the deals of a common floor, became as one stone, having a perpendicular pressure upon the walls. Even in the dome-roof of the library, though it has a spherical appearance within, yet the stones are all laid upon horizontal beds, the dome being formed by hollowing the under beds, and making them overlap or project inward beyond each other, the pressure being still perpendicular upon the walls, instead of thrusting outwards, as in the case of an arch.
[Sidenote: Description of the Ring-bar.]
Instead of a continuous chain, as at the Edystone arches, the writer here introduced a flat-bar of the best Swedish iron into the Eighty-first course, having been previously connected in three pieces with _scarf-joints_ and screwed bolts, with nuts. This bar was set on edge in the building: it measured 3 inches in depth, 1 inch in thickness, and was in weight about 400 lb. avoirdupois. This bar was fitted into a groove 3 inches in width, and 4 inches in depth, cut in the upper bed of the course. The bar having been heated as nearly as might be to the temperature of about 150 or 160 degrees of Fahrenheit, it was floated or run up flush with lead, in a very careful and complete manner by Mr John Gibson, plumber of Leith, who entered so much into the spirit of this work, that he attended the operation himself: no pains was, therefore, spared in having this body of melted lead properly connected with the circular bar of iron. By this means the iron was preserved from the accession of moisture, and, being much stronger than copper, it was preferred to that more ductile metal. The stones of this course were soon laid, but the artificers were occupied so long with the application of the ring-bar, that they had been at work from 4 in the morning till 8 in the evening. The Smeaton being discharged, sailed again for Leith, to take on board the last cargo of stones for the Light-house. The artificers could only receive 7 blocks of stone and 7 joggles to-day: the Hedderwick Praam-boat was accordingly left at her moorings with the remainder of the Smeaton’s cargo still on board.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 17th.]
[Sidenote: The Dome course occupies much time in laying.]
The seamen landed 2 casks of pozzolano and lime, 4 joggles and 6 blocks of stone, which discharged the praam-boats. The artificers laid 8 stones of the Eighty-second course, forming part of the dome-roof of the library. This course consisted of 16 stones, which were attended with much more difficulty than those of the ordinary courses: from their projecting into the apartment, and being also more easily injured, they required more precaution in laying and in the fitting of the joggles. The artificers were therefore at work to-day from 4 in the morning till half-past 8 in the evening, in laying one-half of this course. From the prevalence of S. W. winds, the Patriot only reached Leith at one P. M. yesterday, and commenced loading this morning, when she took on board 32 pieces of stone. The Smeaton having also arrived at Leith this afternoon, both vessels were now off the station, and it was found necessary to dispatch one of the Floating-light’s boats to Arbroath, for a supply of pozzolano, lime, and sand, and also for provisions for the people at the Rock.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 18th.]
[Sidenote: Landing-master’s crew reduced in number.]
The building-artificers laid the remaining 8 stones of the Eighty-second course to-day, and had three and a half hours of extra time. The landing-master’s crew having no materials to land upon the Rock, were employed to-day in collecting a variety of articles, and clearing the Building and Beacon of implements not now wanted, which were carried on board of the Tender. The Floating-light’s boat returned this afternoon from Arbroath, and immediately landed her cargo. The landing-master’s crew had for some time past been reduced to nine men, being little more than was necessary for working the Tender when she got under way; but at the Rock they had the daily assistance of a boat and five men from the Floating-light.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 19th.]
[Sidenote: Patriot driven from the Rock.]
The Patriot arrived at the Bell Rock this evening at 9 o’clock, with a cargo of the cornice-stones; but, as it blew a fresh gale from the N.E., the Tender’s boat could not make fast her hawser to the moorings, and she was obliged to stand in for the Bay of Arbroath. There being, of course, no building materials on the Rock, the artificers were employed in dressing off and polishing some of the joints in the interior of the Light-house. At high-water to-day, it being now the time of spring-tides, there was a great deal of sea upon the Rock: considerable sprays rushed up to the smith’s gallery on the Beacon, and the water occasionally rose in jets to the height of 40 feet upon the building.
[Sidenote: Friday, 20th.]
[Sidenote: Ceremony observed at loading the last stone at Leith.]
The gale from the N.E. still continued so strong, accompanied with a heavy sea, that the Patriot could not approach her moorings; and, although the Tender still kept her station, no landing was made to-day at the Rock. At high-water, it was remarked, that the spray rose to the height of about 60 feet upon the building. The Smeaton now lay in Leith loaded; but the wind and weather being so unfavourable for her getting down the Firth , she did not sail till this afternoon. It may here be proper to notice, that the loading of the centre of the Light-room floor, or last principal stone of the building, did not fail, when put on board, to excite an interest among those connected with the work. When the stone was laid upon the cart, to be conveyed to Leith, the seamen fixed an ensign-staff and flag into the circular hole in the centre of the stone, and decorated their own hats, and that of James Craw’s, the Bell Rock carter, with ribbons; even his faithful and trusty horse Bassey, was ornamented with beaus and streamers of various colours. The masons also provided themselves with new aprons; and, in this manner the cart was attended in its progress to the ship. When the cart came opposite the Trinity-House of Leith, the officer of that Corporation made his appearance, dressed in his uniforms, with his staff of office; and when it reached the harbour, the shipping in the different tiers where the Smeaton lay, hoisted their colours, manifesting, by these trifling ceremonies, the interest with which the progress of this work was regarded by the public, as ultimately tending to afford safety and protection to the mariner. The wind had fortunately shifted to the S.W.; and about 5 o’clock this afternoon the Smeaton reached the Bell Rock. The writer had also the satisfaction soon afterwards to see the Patriot made fast to her moorings; but there was still too much sea to admit of landing upon the Rock.
[Sidenote: Monday, 23d.]
[Sidenote: Many Strangers visit the present interesting state of the Works.]
The present interesting state of the Light-house, which had now attained the height of 90 feet, induced a great many strangers to visit the Bell Rock, while the machinery was in operation, and the Light-house and Beacon were connected with the wooden-bridge; and beams were projected from the windows of the store-room and bed-room, for the suspension of the tackle with which the stones were raised. The Stone-lighters and Tender also lay in the offing at this time, while the Praam-boats were occasionally at the landing creeks on the eastern and western sides of the Rock, delivering the stones, which were afterwards wheeled along the railways. The whole, as shewn in Plate XVIII., afforded great pleasure, and excited the surprise of many visitants, who often endured much hardship in open boats, on a passage of from 12 to 20 miles, from the shore. Two parties, under these circumstances, landed to-day, among whom were Messrs Gellatly and Macpherson, accountants, from the Greenside works at Edinburgh. This being the fifth day of the gale, much relief was felt at the Rock on the arrival of the boats.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 24th.]
[Sidenote: Difficulty of landing and raising the stones of the Cornice.]
At 6 o’clock this morning, Captain Wilson and his people left the Tender to load the praam-boats with stones from the Patriot, so as to be ready at tide time for landing them on the Rock. In the course of this day, the whole of the Eighty-third, and 2 stones of the Eighty-fourth courses were landed in safety, which greatly relieved the writer’s mind as to the practicability of landing the stones of the Eighty-fifth course, forming the balcony-walk and light-room floor, as shewn in Plates XIII. and XVI. The stones of this course measured 7½ feet in length, and weighed upwards of one ton each. For the safety of these unwieldy and more delicately formed stones, Captain Wilson had made some very judicious arrangements. In particular, he had procured pieces of matting, and the seamen of the Tender and Floating-light had been at work for some time, preparing additional defenders, made of old ropes. By a proper application of these, the stones went safely through the progressive stages of being taken from the hold of the Smeaton, and laid on the decks of the praam-boats, after which they were delivered by the landing-apparatus on the Bell Rock, laid on the stone-waggons, conveyed along the railway to a centrical position under the bridge, and raised by four different sets of tackles to the top of the building, as will be understood by examining Plates IX. and XVIII. These several movements were fortunately accomplished with all the stones, without even a trifling injury being done to any of them. The writer, in the course of this day’s work, remarked, that, from the time that one of these large blocks was laid upon the waggon at the landing-apparatus, till it reached the top of the building, then about 95 feet in height, it required, on an average of eight observations, at the rate of 14 minutes for each. Though the number of stones landed to-day was only 18, yet there being still some remains of sea from the former gale, much care and attention became necessary in the management of these unhandy materials. The landing-master’s crew, who were frequently working up to the middle in water, were occupied till 10 o’clock at night before they returned to the Tender. The building-artificers were no less constantly employed, though they only laid 8 stones of the Eighty-fourth course to-day, after continuing their operations till 9 o’clock P. M.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 25th.]
[Sidenote: Eighty-fourth course completed.]
The landing-master’s crew commenced their operations again this morning at 6, and, in the course of the day, they landed 10 stones of the Eighty-fifth, being the course immediately under that of the balcony; together with 14 dove-tailed joggles for the joints, as will be understood by examining the diagrams of Plate XIII. The building-artificers laid the remaining 8 stones of the Eighty-fourth course. The Patriot having been cleared this evening of her cargo, sailed to Arbroath for a supply of water and provisions for the people on the Rock, as the stock at this time was getting low, from the vessels having of late been much off the station, while employed in bringing the stones from the work-yard at Edinburgh.
[Sidenote: Eight stones of the Balcony course laid.]
The building-artificers having now 8 blocks of the Eighty-fifth or Balcony course at hand, which, in one length, formed the balcony-path and Light-room-floor, excepting the centre-stone, as will be seen from the diagrams in Plate XIII., above alluded to, they commenced work at 4 o’clock this morning; but such was the difficulty attending the laying and fitting the joggled joints of these long stones, that it was 10 P. M. before they were laid: they had, therefore, no fewer than eight extra hours to-day, which yielded the high rate of 7s. 6d. to the workmen, and 15s. to the foremen, besides their stated wages and provisions. The landing-master’s crew transported the remaining 8 blocks of the balcony to the Rock; and, when the last stone was raised in safety through its various stages to the top of the building, three cheers were given by all hands.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 26th.]
[Sidenote: Balcony course completed.]
The winds were still moderate, but it rained very heavily at times, and the artificers were very uncomfortably situate on the top of the walls. They, however, persevered in completing the laying of the balcony-course under every disadvantage. The Patriot returned to the Rock this afternoon, with a supply of provisions and necessaries; when she was dispatched to Mylnefield Quarry, for the first cargo of stones for the establishment of houses at Arbroath, about to be erected for the use of the families of the Bell Rock Light-keepers, it being only intended to lodge the keepers themselves at the Rock.
[Sidenote: Friday, 27th.]
[Sidenote: Eighty-sixth course built.]
The artificers had finished the laying of the Balcony-course, excepting the centre stone of the light-room floor, which, like the centres of the other floors, could not be laid in its place till after the removal of the foot and shaft of the balance-crane. This stone was accordingly left on board of the Smeaton, to be landed with the last cargo. The Eighty-sixth course, consisting of 8 stones, being the first of the Parapet-wall of the light-room, was landed and built. During the dinner hour, when the men were off work, the writer generally took some exercise by walking round the walls, when the Rock was under water. But to-day his boundary was greatly enlarged, for, instead of the narrow wall as a path, he felt no small degree of pleasure in walking round the balcony, and passing out and in at the space allotted for the light-room door. In the labours of this day, both the artificers and seamen felt their work to be extremely easy, compared with what it had been for some days past.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 29th.]
The building-artificers laid the Eighty-seventh and Eighty-eighth courses, consisting each of 8 stones; and having made another long day’s work, they had eight extra hours pay. The landing-master’s crew transported 2 casks of pozzolano, 2 of lime, and 2 of sand, with 23 blocks of stone, to the Rock, which completed the landing of the masonry of the exterior walls of the Light-house. Immediately before dinner the bell was rung, and all hands being assembled, prayers were read as usual in the artificers’ barrack-room.
[Sidenote: Ceremony observed at landing the last stone.]
Captain Wilson and his crew had made preparations for landing the last stone, and, as may well be supposed, this was a day of great interest at the Bell Rock. “That it might lose none of its honours,” as he expressed himself, the Hedderwick praam-boat, with which the first stone of the building had been landed, was appointed also to carry the last. At 7 o’clock this evening, the seamen hoisted three flags upon the Hedderwick, when the colours of the Dickie Praam-boat, Tender, Smeaton, Floating-light, Beacon-house, and Light-house, were also displayed, and the weather being remarkably fine, the whole presented a very gay appearance, and, in connection with the associations excited, the effect was very pleasing. The praam which carried the stone was towed by the seamen in gallant style to the Rock, and, on its arrival, cheers were given as a finale to the landing department.
[Sidenote: Monday, 30th.]
[Sidenote: Ceremony at laying the last stone of the walls.]
The Ninetieth or last course of the building having been laid to-day, which brought the masonry to the height of 102 feet 6 inches, the Lintel of the light-room door, being the finishing-stone of the exterior walls, was laid with due formality by the writer, who, at the same time, pronounced the following benediction: “May the Great Architect of the Universe, under whose blessing this perilous work has prospered, preserve it as a guide to the Mariner.”
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 31st.]
[Sidenote: Machinery partly dismantled.]
The artificers were employed to-day in taking down the tackle and machinery from the store-room and kitchen-floors, which were put on board one of the praam-boats, and conveyed to the Tender. The joiners were assisted at low-water by some of the seamen, in preparing the lower parts of the beams of the Beacon-house, for receiving a coat of hot pitch and tar, as usual, before winter, to defend them against the ravages of the insect which, as before noticed, had made a considerable impression on the soles of the beams, where they rested upon the Rock. The Patriot had sailed for Mylnefield Quarry; and the Smeaton, being now discharged, left the Rock for Lord Elgin’s works at Charlestown, to load limestone for the light-keepers’ houses, to be built at Arbroath. The Tender continued at her moorings, and took on board from time to time such implements and apparatus as were no longer wanted at the Rock. The Floating-light, from the uncertainty attending the period of finishing the light-room and its apparatus, and consequent exhibition of the light from the building, had, perhaps, a long time yet to remain at her station; but one of her boats was to be regularly sent with five seamen, to assist at the operations on the Rock as formerly.
[Sidenote: 1810, August.]
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 1st.]
[Sidenote: Foot and shaft of Balance-crane taken down.]
The artificers and seamen were employed to-day, as yesterday, in clearing the building of lumber, and in coating the beams of the Beacon with a mixture of tar and pitch. The _body_ of the Balance-crane was also supported with beams on the walls of the light-room, in such a manner that its machinery could be applied to lowering its foot and shaft down through the apertures left for this purpose in the floors of the several apartments. The machinery of this useful implement thus supported, was yet to be used in laying centre-stones in the floors of the store-room, kitchen, bed-room, library and light-room; and also in taking up the cast-iron sash-frames and other weighty apparatus of the light-room.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 2d.]
The several apartments of the building being now entirely cleared of the tackle and apparatus connected with raising the materials, the artificers were in readiness for laying the centre-stones of the several floors.
[Sidenote: Friday, 3d.]
[Sidenote: Lord Kellie with a party visits the Bell Rock.]
This morning, between 7 and 8 o’clock, the works of the Bell Rock were visited by the Earl of Kellie, the Honourable Mr Methven Erskine, Mr David Monypenny, Sheriff of Fifeshire and one of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses (now Lord Pitmilly), and his Lordship’s brother, Mr Alexander Monypenny. The party had left Cambo-house, upon the coast of Fife, at an early hour; but the wind being from the south-west, and blowing fresh, had rendered their passage very uncomfortable. When the boat reached the Tender, the party came on board, as it was too early in the tide for landing on the Rock, which was still under water; but when the railways made their appearance, the party proceeded to the western-wharf, and Lord Pitmilly having been the first of the Light-house Commissioners who had landed here, it was named _Pitmilly Wharf_. After viewing the Rock, which was now partially dry, they ascended to the Beacon-house, and passed along the bridge, with all its difficult steps, to the Light-house, where the servants had contrived to cover a table, made up with detached planks, on which the first breakfast was laid out in the Bell Rock Light-house. After having gone over the whole of the works, they left the Rock about mid-day.
[Sidenote: Centre-stone of the Light-room floor laid by the writer.]
At 3 P. M., the necessary preparations having been made, the artificers commenced the completing of the floors of the several apartments, and at 7 o’clock the centre-stone of the light-room floor was laid, which may be held as finishing the masonry of this important National Edifice. After going through the usual ceremonies observed by the Brotherhood on occasions of this kind, the writer, addressing himself to the artificers and seamen who were present, briefly alluded to the utility of the undertaking, as a monument of the wealth of British Commerce, erected through the spirited measures of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, by means of the able assistance of those who now surrounded him. He then took an opportunity of stating, that toward those connected with this arduous work, he would ever retain the most heartfelt regard in all their interests.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 4th.]
[Sidenote: Artificers leave the Rock.]
When the bell was rung, as usual, on the Beacon this morning, every one seemed as if he were at a loss what to make of himself. There was, however, upon the whole, still much to do to the Light-house, which is only yet to be considered in the state of a house with its outward wall built; but, before being useful or habitable, it must be roofed over, internally finished, and provided with the necessary furniture and utensils. At this period, the artificers at the Rock consisted of 18 masons, 2 joiners, 1 mill-wright, 1 smith, and 1 mortar-maker, besides Messrs Peter Logan and Francis Watt, foremen, counting in all 25; and matters were arranged for proceeding to Arbroath this afternoon with all hands, as it now became necessary to new-model the works there. The Sir Joseph Banks Tender had by this time been afloat, with little intermission, for six months, during the greater part of which the artificers had been almost constantly off at the Rock, and were now much in want of necessaries of almost every description. Not a few had lost different articles of their clothing, which had dropped into the sea from the Beacon and Building; some wanted jackets, others, from want of hats, wore night-caps; each was, in fact, more or less curtailed in his wardrobe, and, it must be confessed, that at best, the party were but in a very tattered condition. This morning was occupied in removing the artificers and their bedding on board of the Tender; and although their personal luggage was easily shifted, the boats had, nevertheless, many articles to remove from the Beacon-house, and were consequently employed in this service till 11 A. M. All hands being collected and just ready to embark, as the water had nearly overflowed the Rock, the writer, in taking leave, after alluding to the harmony which had ever marked the conduct of those employed on the Bell Rock, took occasion to compliment the great zeal, attention and abilities of Mr Peter Logan and Mr Francis Watt, foremen, Captain James Wilson, landing-master, and Captain David Taylor, commander of the Tender, who, in their several departments, had so faithfully discharged the duties assigned to them, often under circumstances the most difficult and trying. The health of these gentlemen was drunk with much warmth of feeling by the artificers and seamen, who severally expressed the satisfaction they had experienced in acting under them; after which, the whole party left the Rock.
[Sidenote: The writer meets with his assistants ashore.]
In sailing past the Floating-light, mutual compliments were made by a display of flags between that vessel and the Tender; and at 5 P. M. the latter vessel entered the harbour of Arbroath, where the party were heartily welcomed by a numerous company of spectators, who had collected to see the artificers arrive, after so long an absence from the port. In the evening, the writer invited the foremen and captains of the service, together with Mr David Logan, clerk of works at Arbroath, and Mr Lachlan Kennedy, engineer’s clerk and book-keeper, and some of their friends, to the principal Inn, where the evening was spent very happily; and after “His Majesty’s health,” and “The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses,” had been given, “Stability to the Bell Rock Light-house” was hailed as a standing toast in the Light-house service.
[Sidenote: Sunday, 5th.]
The author has formerly noticed the uniformly decent and orderly deportment of the artificers who were employed at the Bell Rock Light-house, and to-day, it is believed, they very generally attended church, no doubt, with grateful hearts for the many narrow escapes from personal danger which all of them had more or less experienced during their residence at the Rock.
[Sidenote: Monday, 6th.]
[Sidenote: Plans arranged for building Light-keepers’ houses at Arbroath.]
Hitherto the account of these works has been given in the form of a Diary; but now that the chief difficulties of the undertaking are over, it is proposed to quote only particular dates in reference to their progress. At the meeting of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, held at Edinburgh in the month of July 1810, it had been resolved to purchase a piece of ground contiguous to the harbour of Arbroath, which presented an unobstructed view of the Bell Rock Light-house, on which a suite of buildings was to be erected, for the accommodation of the families of the light-keepers and seamen of the Tender, and also for the necessary store-houses. Mr Charles Cunningham, Secretary to the Light-house Board, accordingly corresponded with Mr John Nicol, writer in Arbroath, who purchased the ground for the site of these buildings, together with a small court-yard and bleaching-green, as arranged and laid out in Plate XII. In constructing these buildings, and enclosing an extensive piece of garden-ground for the use of this establishment, the artificers, who had just returned from the Rock, were now to be employed.
[Sidenote: Duty on stone charged for these buildings.]
The Patriot had returned from Mylnefield Quarry to Arbroath with the first cargo of stones, for the use of these operations, which were about to be landed duty-free, when the Custom-house officers interposed, demanding the duty of 33 per cent. on stone carried coast-ways, as the buildings at Arbroath were not considered as coming within the exemption granted for the Bell Rock Light-house. After representing the circumstances of the case to the Board of Customs at Edinburgh, it was found that another petition would have been required to the Lords of the Treasury, before the present exemption could be granted; but the extent of the duty in question being trifling, the Light-house Board declined making any further application, and the duty was therefore regularly paid for the stones of this compartment of the work.
[Sidenote: Three years of the lease of the Work-yard given up.]
The writer finding that the Bell Rock work-yard at Arbroath, which had been taken upon a lease of seven years, could be dispensed with after the term of Martinmas, thereby leaving three unexpired years of the tack still to run, the lease was cancelled by the landlord, on his being paid one year’s rent in name of damages. This afforded a satisfactory proof of the termination of the works, at least three years sooner than the period calculated upon at its commencement. The great circular platform in the work-yard, shown in Plate XII., which measured 42 feet in diameter, and was sunk 2 feet 6 inches under the level of the surrounding ground, used for laying and marking the courses of the Light-house, before they were shipped for the Rock, contained a great quantity of stones suitable for the interior walls of the light-keepers’ houses. The first operation of the builders, therefore, was to remove the stones of this platform to the site of the new buildings.
[Sidenote: Friday, 9th.]
[Sidenote: Base-line measured on the Sands of Barry.]
The writer, with a view to making a survey of the coast contiguous to the Bell Rock, or from Fifeness to the Redhead, embraced the present as a convenient time for measuring a base-line. For this purpose, the Sands of Barry, about 9 miles westward from Arbroath, were selected; and he provided himself with the following apparatus: a strong iron-chain of the length of 100 feet, carefully graduated; 5 wooden coffers, each 20 feet in length, 5 inches in width, and 3 inches in depth, on which the chain was to be stretched; 10 oaken stakes, 4 feet in length, and 4 inches square at the top, for marking off distances of 1000 feet; 10 picket-rods of fir timber, measuring 8 feet in length, with cross boards at the top; 2 spars of 20 feet in length, with small red flags for marking the termination at each end of the Line; and one of Messrs Miller and Adie’s best Theodolites. With these, he left the harbour of Arbroath at 5 on the morning of the 9th of August, in one of the Bell Rock boats, manned with six seamen, and accompanied by one of his assistants. At 8 o’clock they reached the small village called the Feus; and after walking about two miles and a half along the Sands of Barry, flag-staffs were erected at the extremities of the line intended to be measured, which, in relation to each other, were situate by compass S.W. ½ S., and N.E. ½ N. The next operation was to mark off the first 1000 feet of the line in a general way, with the picket-rods, into spaces of 100 feet. The wooden coffers, or troughs, for levelling and directing the chain, were then laid on the sands, which being naturally very flat, required only that certain places of the track should be partially cleared with the spade. The chain was then stretched by two of the seamen, to a degree of tension which they were directed to give it, by as regular and uniform a strain as possible; and the links being all previously examined, the distances were carefully marked with an iron pricker. In this manner, the whole length of a line, extending to 10,866 feet and 9½ inches was measured. This was altogether a most laborious operation, occupying 14 hours, including the short time the party were at their meals, which were taken on the field. The line having been thus gone over from North-east to South-west, the operation was reversed as a check, from South-west to North-east; the result of which was not a little satisfactory, as the second measurement only varied one inch from the first, though the line extended upwards of two miles. The weather was very favourable; the wind being westerly, and blowing gentle breezes, while the barometer remained steadily at about 29.78.; the temperature was marked three times a day, and averaged 54°. The angles and bearings of the Bell Rock and other objects having been taken from this base-line, were ultimately referred to in constructing the map of the coast delineated on Plate IV.
[Sidenote: Trigonometrical Survey of Great Britain.]
For a more complete and perfect mode of making such measurements, the reader may consult Colonel Mudge’s Account of the Trigonometrical Survey of England and Wales, in two volumes quarto; a work which shows the astonishing accuracy with which that great National Survey is conducted; and also, the correctness to which mathematical instruments have been brought; and strongly illustrates the difficulties which assail man, when he aims at absolute precision, even in the most simple of the arts.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 14th.]
[Sidenote: Artificers return to the Bell Rock.]
The Smeaton having, in the course of the last ten days, lifted such of the moorings as could now be dispensed with, took the Dickie praam-boat in tow, and sailed for Leith, to load the cast-iron sash-frames of the Light-room. On her return to Arbroath, she took on board the stone-steps for the Light-house, 23 in number, to be erected between the passage of the entrance-door and the provision store, as will be seen from the section of Plate XVI. With these she sailed to-day at 1 P. M., having on board 16 artificers, with Mr Peter Logan, together with a supply of provisions and necessaries; who left the harbour, pleased and happy to find themselves once more afloat in the Bell Rock service. At 7 o’clock, the Tender was made fast to her moorings, when the artificers landed on the Rock, and took possession of their old quarters in the Beacon-house, with feelings very different from those of 1807, when the works commenced.
[Sidenote: The Smeaton is in danger, and obliged to leave her Station.]
The barometer, for some days past, had been falling from 29.90, and to-day it was 29.50, with the wind at N.E., which, in the course of this day, encreased to a strong gale, accompanied with a sea which broke with great violence upon the Rock. At 12 noon, the Tender rode very heavily at her moorings, when her chain broke at about 10 fathoms from the ship’s bows. The kedge-anchor was immediately let go, to hold her till the floating-buoy and broken chain should be got on board; but while this was in operation, the hawser of the kedge was chaffed through on the rocky bottom, and parted, when the vessel was again adrift. Most fortunately, however, she cast off with her head from the Rock, and narrowly cleared it; when she sailed up the Firth of Forth, to wait the return of better weather. The artificers were thus left upon the Rock with so heavy a sea running, that it was ascertained to have risen to the height of 80 feet on the building. Under such perilous circumstances, it would be difficult to describe the feelings of those who, at this time, were cooped up in the Beacon, in so forlorn a situation, with the sea not only raging under them, but occasionally falling from a great height upon the roof of their temporary lodging, without even the attending vessel in view, to afford the least gleam of hope in the event of any accident. It is true that they had now the masonry of the Light-house to resort to, which, no doubt, lessened the actual danger of their situation. But the building was still without a roof, and the dead-lights, or storm shutters, not being yet fitted, the windows of the lower storey were stove in and broken, and, at high-water, the sea ran in considerable quantities out at the entrance-door. In the course of this afternoon, the spring-tides being now at the highest, the bridge or gangway was also for a time rendered completely impassable, from the quantity of sea that constantly washed over it. The smith’s gallery, at the same time, was also partially broken up, and several bags of coal, a barrel of small beer, and a few casks, containing pozzolano, lime and sand, were all swept off the Beacon. When the sea left the Rock, it was likewise found that two of the cast-iron legs of the sheer-crane were broken, and that some pieces of the Railways had been torn up.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 16th.]
[Sidenote: Mortar-gallery completely broken up.]
The gale continues with unabated violence to-day, and the sprays rise to a still greater height, having been carried over the masonry of the building, or about 90 feet above the level of the sea. At 4 o’clock this morning, it was breaking into the cook’s birth, when he rung the alarm-bell, and all hands turned out to attend to their personal safety. The floor of the smith’s or mortar-gallery was now completely burst up by the force of the sea, when the whole of the deals and the remaining articles upon the floor were swept away, such as the cast-iron mortar-tubs, the iron hearth of the forge, the smith’s bellows, and even his anvil, were thrown down upon the Rock. The boarding of the cook-house, or storey above the smith’s gallery, was also partly carried away, and the brick and plaster-work of the fire-place shaken and loosened. At low-water, it was found that the chain of the moveable beam-crane, at the western wharf, had been broken, which set the beam at liberty, and greatly endangered the guy-ropes by its motion. It was observed, during this gale, that the Beacon-house had a good deal of tremor; but none of that “twisting motion” occasionally felt and complained of before the additional wooden struts were set up for the security of the principal beams; but this effect had more especially disappeared ever since the attachment of the great horizontal iron-bars in connection with these supports, instead of the chain-braces, shewn in Plate VIII. Before the tide rose to its full height to-day, some of the artificers passed along the bridge into the Light-house, to observe the effects of the sea upon it, and they reported that they had felt a slight tremulous motion in the building, when great seas struck it in a certain direction, about high-water mark. On this occasion, the sprays were again observed to wet the balcony, and even to come over the parapet-wall into the interior of the light-room. In this state of the weather, Captain Wilson and the crew of the Floating-light were much alarmed for the safety of the artificers upon the Rock, especially when they observed, with a telescope, that the floor of the smith’s gallery had been carried away, and that the triangular cast-iron sheer-crane was broken down. It was quite impossible, however, to do any thing for their relief, until the gale should take off.
[Sidenote: Friday, 17th.]
[Sidenote: Tender returns to the Rock.]
The weather moderated in the course of the last night, and the wind shifted to S.W., when the Tender, which had been for the last two days in the Firth of Forth, stood towards the Rock, and reached it at 7 P. M., but could not come within speech of the inhabitants of the Beacon, though, from signals mutually exchanged, it appeared that all was pretty well. Captain Taylor next spoke the Floating-light, and found no complaint on board. They had, indeed, shipped several heavy seas, yet no damage had been sustained; and during the gale they rode with 60 fathoms of cable veered out. After making these enquiries, he stood towards Arbroath to get the Tender’s rigging refitted, and her moorings repaired, which had suffered in the gale. Knowing also that a new floor, and other articles, were wanting at the Beacon, he meant also to supply some of these; but on approaching Arbroath, there was still too much sea upon the bar of the harbour, and he was obliged to stand off again to sea.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 18th.]
[Sidenote: Smith’s Anvil, Bellows, &c. washed off the Beacon.]
The wind shifted to the westward to-day, and the Tender got into Arbroath. In the mean time, Captain Wilson visited the Bell Rock with a well manned boat from the Floating-light, when he had the happiness to find Mr Peter Logan and his people in perfect health, though, in the course of the gale, they had at times been considerably alarmed, while the sea was making inroads upon their habitation. In searching about the Rock in quest of some of the articles which had been washed from the smith’s gallery, it is not a little remarkable, that so ponderous an article as the anvil, weighing 170 lb., should have been found in a hole at the distance of 60 feet from the Beacon, and that the iron pan or hearth of the forge, weighing about 100 lb., was found at the distance of 200 feet from it. Near to this lay one of the cast-iron mortar-tubs; but the smith’s bellows, and many other articles amissing, were never found. Captain Wilson foreseeing that there might be a want of fuel on the Rock from the late disaster, had very properly carried two bags of coal from the Floating-light; and, after landing these, he returned to his ship at 2 P. M.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 23d.]
[Sidenote: Light-room sashes landed. Captain Wilson is hurt by one of them.]
Both the Tender and the Smeaton having been forced into Arbroath, were detained there with strong gales of westerly wind, till Monday the 20th, when they sailed for the Rock; the Smeaton, with the sash-frames of the Light-room on board, and the Tender, with a supply of provisions and necessaries for the Floating-light and Beacon-house. The wind being at W.S.W. and the weather more moderate, both vessels got to their moorings on the 23d, when all hands were employed in transporting the sash-frames from on board of the Smeaton to the Rock. In the act of setting up one of these frames upon the bridge, it was unguardedly suffered to lose its balance, and, in saving it from damage, Captain Wilson met with a severe bruise in the groin, on the seat of a gunshot wound received in the early part of his life. This accident laid him aside for several days.
[Sidenote: Friday, 24th.]
The Smeaton being now discharged, sailed again for other articles still wanted from Edinburgh, belonging to the Light-room frame. The masons at the Rock were busily employed in setting up the stair, and in dressing off and polishing the joints of the interior walls of the Light-house: For, although the stones had all been polished to a smooth surface in the work-yard, in order to give the apartments a cleanly and comfortable appearance, as plastering would have been quite unsuitable for such a situation, yet the walls in many parts required to be retouched, when they came to be examined in a more finished state. James Glen, of whom mention has already been frequently made, was assisted by the smith in refitting the gallery, and the other injured parts of the Beacon-house.
[Sidenote: Monday, 27th.]
[Sidenote: Balance-crane removed from the top of the Building.]
The sash-frames of the Light-room, 8 in number, and weighing each 254 lb., having been got safely up to the top of the building, were ranged on the balcony, in the order in which they were numbered, for their places on the top of the parapet-wall; and the balance-crane, that useful machine, having now lifted all the heavier articles, was unscrewed and lowered, to use the landing-master’s phrase, “in mournful silence.”
[Sidenote: Wednesday, 29th.]
[Sidenote: Sir William Rae and Party visit the Rock.]
The works were visited at this time by Mr Rae, Sheriff of Edinburgh, now Sir William Rae, Bart., Lord Advocate of Scotland, and Mr Adam Duff, Sheriff of Forfar, now of Edinburgh, _ex officio_ Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, who, as Members of the Bell Rock Committee, had individually taken much interest in the Light-house affairs. The party further consisted of General Brown, Captain Harry Stuart of the Royal Navy, Mr James Dickson of Leith, and Mr Charles Cuningham, Secretary and Cashier to the Light-house Board. The writer had the pleasure of embarking with these gentlemen at Leith on the 28th, in the Bell Rock Tender, and, after calling at the Light-houses of Inchkeith and Isle of May, the vessel, in the course of the night, got towards the Rock, and next morning the party landed, and minutely examined every thing connected with the operations of the Light-house and Beacon. On this occasion, one of the principal landing-places was named Rae’s Wharf, and another Duff’s Wharf, as marked on Plate VI. After breakfasting in the Light-house, Sir William proposed, that the foremen, landing-master, artificers and seamen, should be collected on the Beacon, when he expressed the satisfaction which he and his brother Commissioner felt at seeing the present advanced state of the Light-house; and, after alluding to the utility which might result from the publication of the whole proceedings of this work, concluded an address of much tenderness of feeling, by wishing all of us every prosperity and happiness. The party having been highly amused and gratified upon the Rock, again embarked; and at 10 A. M. the Tender sailed for Leith Roads, where she arrived, at 6 o’clock P. M., having made the trip from thence in the short space of about 28 hours.
[Sidenote: 1810, September.]
[Sidenote: Sunday, 2d.]
[Sidenote: Wooden-bridge removed from the Rock.]
The writer having accompanied the party to Leith, immediately returned to the Bell Rock, where he was to make arrangements for bringing the operations to a conclusion. The steps of the stair being landed, and all the weightier articles of the Light-room got up to the balcony, the wooden-bridge was now to be removed, as it had a very powerful effect upon the Beacon, when a heavy sea struck it; and could not possibly have withstood the storms of a winter. Every thing having been cleared from the bridge, and nothing left but the two principal beams, with their horizontal braces, James Glen, at high-water, proceeded with a saw to cut through the beams at the end next the Beacon, which likewise disengaged their opposite extremity, inserted a few inches into the building. The frame was then gently lowered into the water, and floated off to the Smeaton, to be towed to Arbroath, to be applied as part of the materials in the erection of the light-keepers’ houses. After the removal of the bridge, the aspect of things at the Rock was much altered. The Beacon-house and Building had both a naked look, to those accustomed to their former appearance; a curious optical deception was also remarked, by which the Light-house seemed to incline from the perpendicular towards the Beacon. The horizontal rope-ladder before noticed was again stretched, to preserve the communication; and the artificers were once more obliged to practise the awkward and stradling manner of their passage between them during 1809, as will be understood by examining the second year’s work of Plate IX.
[Sidenote: Last Stone of the Light-house laid.]
At 12 noon, the bell rung for prayers, after which the artificers went to dinner, when the writer passed along the rope-ladder to the Light-house, and went through the several apartments, which were now cleared of lumber. In the afternoon, all hands were summoned to the interior of the house, when he had the satisfaction of laying the upper step of the stair, or last stone of the Building. This ceremony concluded with three cheers, the sound of which had a very loud and strange effect within the walls of the Light-house. At 6 o’clock Mr Peter Logan, and eleven of the artificers, embarked with the writer for Arbroath, leaving Mr James Glen with the special charge of the Beacon and Railways, Mr Robert Selkirk with the Building, with a few artificers to fit the temporary windows, to render the house habitable.
[Sidenote: 1810, October.]
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 4th.]
[Sidenote: Tender sails for Leith, to be sold.]
At Arbroath, the building operations for the keepers’ houses were left under charge of Mr Peter Logan and Mr Lachlan Kennedy, when the writer proceeded for Greenock, to sail on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses. In passing the Floating-light this morning, he went on board, and examined that ship with Captain Wilson, and had the satisfaction to find every thing in the most orderly and cleanly condition. The sailors, with those feelings which usually accompany taking permanent leave of a vessel, hoisted an ensign flag on board of the Floating-light, as the Tender was now on her way to Leith to be dismantled and sold. The writer must also confess, that, on finally leaving the Sir Joseph Banks Tender, it was not without feelings of regret, as he had spent a considerable portion of the two last summers in this beautifully moulded ship.
[Sidenote: A Praam-boat drifts from the Rock.]
On the afternoon of the 5th, a signal was observed flying from the main-mast-head of the Floating-light, which created considerable alarm at Arbroath, when the Smeaton sailed to inquire into the cause. Upon hailing the Floating-light, Captain Wilson informed Mr Pool that the Hedderwick praam-boat had broke adrift from her moorings, and gave his opinion as to the course to be steered, in order to fall in with her. At 8 o’clock next morning she was observed a few leagues to the eastward, and taken in tow by the Smeaton, to be carried to Leith; but the wind being westerly, after getting above the Isle of May, she was obliged to anchor in Canty Bay, to the eastward of Tantallan Castle; and at noon on the 12th, she got safely into the harbour of Leith, after a very cross passage of six days.
[Sidenote: Artificers for the erection of the Light-room landed.]
The arrival of the Smeaton had for some days been anxiously watched, as the remaining parts of the Light-room were ready to ship for the Bell Rock. No time was therefore lost in getting her loaded; and, on Thursday the 13th, she again sailed with Mr Dove, and the artificers, who were to fit up the light-room; and on the following day the whole were landed at the Rock. The first operation was to put up a temporary rail round the balcony, with a few iron stanchions, and some ropes, for the safety of the workmen. Captain Wilson and his crew also erected a pair of sheers and a suitable tackle for lifting the cast-iron sash-frames from the balcony to the top of the parapet-wall.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.]
[Sidenote: Dr Barclay and party sail with the writer to the Light-houses.]
This being the train in which the Bell Rock matters were left, the writer embarked to-day at Greenock, in the Light-house Yacht, along with his friends, Dr John Barclay, Mr Charles Oliphant, and Mr Patrick Neill, who were to accompany him on a tour to the Northern Light-houses. Notwithstanding the boisterous state of the weather during the early part of the month of September, it now became uncommonly fine; the barometer being found to oscillate within a few parts of 30 inches, and the range of the thermometer, taken daily at 9 A. M., indicated from 43 to 50 degrees. The winds were also chiefly from the west, which being favourable for the ship’s course, the trip was not only remarkable for its quickness, but was, upon the whole, the most pleasant which the writer had ever experienced; as will readily be imagined by those who have the happiness to know the excellent qualities of his fellow-travellers, whether considered on account of their manner, intelligence, or scientific acquirements. This opportunity is therefore gladly embraced by the writer of recording their mutual friendships.
[Sidenote: Progress of the Light-room works.]
On returning from this voyage, the writer landed at the Bell Rock on Sunday the 14th of October, and had the pleasure to find, from the very favourable state of the weather, that the artificers had been enabled to make great progress with the fitting up of the Light-room. From the 14th of September till the 22d, they were occupied in fitting the sole-plate and trimming-path, forming the basement of the window-sash-frames. From the 22d till the 23d, the work executed got two successive coats of oil-paint; and, as it had also been carefully laid over with linseed-oil at the foundry, while in a hot state, it was nearly impervious to the effects of the atmosphere, and was likely to be kept free from oxidation. Between the 28th September and 2d October, the sash-frames were raised to their places and screwed together, along with the top-plate or cornice. From the 2d till the 15th, the copper-smiths were employed in erecting the cupola or roof of the Light-room, the several parts of which will be more readily understood by examining Plate XX., with its letter-press description. Besides finding the works in this forward state, the writer had the happiness of seeing the plate-glass for the Light-room safely landed on the Rock. Each of these plates, measuring 32½ inches by 26¼ inches, and one quarter of an inch in thickness, could not have been soon or easily replaced; and their safe arrival was therefore considered a very fortunate circumstance; which having witnessed, the writer set sail for Leith, where he landed on the following morning.
[Sidenote: Friday, 10th.]
[Sidenote: Loss of Charles Henderson.]
The light-room work had proceeded, as usual, to-day, under the direction of Mr Dove, assisted in the plumber-work by Mr John Gibson, and in the brazier-work by Mr Joseph Fraser; while Mr James Slight, with the joiners, were fitting up the storm-shutters of the windows. In these several departments, the artificers were at work till 7 o’clock P. M., and it being then dark, Mr Dove gave orders to drop work in the light-room; and all hands proceeded from thence to the Beacon-house, when Charles Henderson, smith, and Henry Dickson brazier, left the work together. Being both young men, who had been for several weeks upon the Rock, they had become familiar, and even playful on the most difficult parts about the Beacon and Building. This evening they were trying to outrun each other, in descending from the light-room, when Henderson led the way; but they were in conversation with each other, till they came to the rope-ladder, distended between the entrance-door of the Light-house and the Beacon. Dickson, on reaching the cook-room, was surprised at not seeing his companion, and inquired hastily for Henderson. Upon which the cook replied, “Was he before you upon the rope-ladder?” Dickson answered “Yes; and I thought I heard something fall.” Upon this the alarm was given, and links were immediately lighted, with which the artificers descended on the legs of the Beacon, as near the surface of the water as possible, it being then about full tide, and the sea breaking to a considerable height upon the building, with the wind at S.S.E. But after watching till low-water, and searching in every direction upon the Rock, it appeared that poor Henderson must have unfortunately fallen through the rope-ladder, and been washed into the deep water.
The deceased had passed along this rope-ladder many hundred times, both by day and night, and the operations in which he was employed being nearly finished, he was about to leave the Rock when this melancholy catastrophe took place. The unfortunate loss of Henderson cast a deep gloom upon the minds of all who were at the Rock, and it required some management on the part of those who had charge, to induce the people to remain patiently at their work: as the weather now became more boisterous, and the nights long, they found their habitation extremely cheerless, while the winds were howling about their ears, and the waves lashing with fury against the beams of their insulated habitation.
[Sidenote: Difficulty attending the procuring of Red-coloured-Glass.]
It has already been noticed, that the plate-glass for the sash-frames of the light-room was safely landed on the Rock, and the writer had also the satisfaction of learning to-day that the red-coloured glass for distinguishing the light was in readiness to ship at London. After having corresponded with all parts of the kingdom, in endeavouring to procure red glass of the finest quality, by having it coloured in the furnace, it was mortifying to find that its manufacture was wholly impracticable, excepting in the production of small pieces, containing not more than three or four square inches, similar to those in the compartments of cathedral-windows: which, in the process of shading a reflector, must have induced a number of minute divisions, and necessarily obstructed much of the light. The writer at length resolved on confining his attention to plates of Crown-glass, stained by repeated applications of the litharge of gold, laid on after the manner of gum or paint, which was afterwards subjected to a strong heat in a muffle or furnace, of a peculiar construction, forming altogether a very nice and difficult process. In looking through this stained glass, the eye is not sensible of any effect but that of a fine rich red colour, when the pigment is properly applied; but, on examining a cross section of the glass, the green colour of the Crown-glass is distinctly seen in the centre, while a thin film of red is perceptible on the edges. Although the effect produced in this way cannot be so perfect as if the glass were uniformly coloured in the pot; yet, when applied to the purposes of a distinguishing light, its effects are highly characteristic and beautiful. As the works were now drawing near a completion, and all the essential parts of the light-room apparatus must soon be upon the spot, the writer, after repeated disappointments from Mr James Okey, glass-stainer of London, found it necessary to send Mr John Forrest, superintendant of light-keepers’ duty, with instructions to remain there until he got the plates into his possession. He accordingly arrived in London on the 15th of September, and immediately waited upon Okey; but, notwithstanding the numerous letters and pressing calls which had been made upon that artist, explanatory of the necessity of the case; yet, as the plates wanted were to be 25 inches in diameter, and, consequently, about 5 inches more than any he had hitherto been required to make, his furnace was still to rebuild, and his apparatus otherwise to conform to these enlarged dimensions, before he could begin to the Bell Rock plates. In order to insure attention and dispatch, Mr Forrest took lodgings at Clerkenwell, in Mr Okey’s immediate neighbourhood, and paid frequent visits to his workshop. Numerous glass-workers in various parts of the country had previously been applied to for this article, but none of them ever produced a single plate.
[Sidenote: Monday, 22d.]
[Sidenote: Mr Robert Hamilton visits the Bell Rock.]
The whole apparatus and workmen necessary for completing the exterior of the Light-house being now on the Rock, the writer was desirous of seeing the ball placed upon the top of the cupola, and accordingly embarked at Leith in the Yacht for that purpose. Mr Hamilton, who, as one of the Commissioners, had always taken a most lively interest in the affairs of the Bell Rock, took this opportunity to pay it another visit. The wind was at W.S.W., blowing pretty fresh with the barometer at 29.50; but, in the course of the night, the Yacht got down to the Floating-light, and was kept plying about, within view of it, till morning.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 23d.]
[Sidenote: The ventilator-ball is set upon the cupola.]
The wind had shifted, in the night, to N.W., and blew a fresh gale, while the sea broke with violence upon the Rock. It was found impossible to land, but the writer, from the boat, hailed Mr Dove, and directed the ball to be immediately fixed. The necessary preparations were accordingly made, while the vessel made short tacks on the southern side of the Rock, in comparatively smooth water. At noon, Mr Dove, assisted by Mr James Slight, Mr Robert Selkirk, Mr James Glen, and Mr John Gibson, plumber, with considerable difficulty, from the boisterous state of the weather, got the gilded-ball screwed on, measuring 2 feet in diameter, and forming the principal ventilator at the upper extremity of the cupola of the Light-room, as will be seen from the section in Plate XX. At Mr Hamilton’s desire, a salute of 7 guns was fired on this occasion, and all hands being called to the quarter-deck, “Stability to the Bell Rock Light-house” was not forgotten.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 25th.]
[Sidenote: The Light-room is glazed.]
The glazing of the sash-frames of the light-room having been completed on Wednesday the 24th, the boats of the Smeaton and Floating-light landed on the morning of the 25th, when the plumbers and glaziers left the Rock; from whom the writer learned the progress which had been made with the work. Among other preparations for the glazing, it was stated, that besides the sheeting provided as a screen, all hands had engaged to give part of their bedding for the better defence of the glass, in case it should come to blow so hard as to endanger the stopping of the work; but although the weather had rather a threatening aspect at the commencement of this critical operation, yet it was got through in a manner much beyond expectation, and in one day and a half the light-room was completely closed; though not without being under the necessity of lighting torches at night, which were, however, screened from the view of shipping.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 27th.]
[Sidenote: The Yacht returns to the Rock, but loses one of her boats.]
After the house was glazed, and in a manner externally finished, the writer sailed from Leith for the Rock, on the 27th of October; but, as it came to blow very fresh from W.S.W., a landing could not be effected, and the Yacht was put into Arbroath till the 29th, when the wind became more moderate, and she again stood off. While in the act of putting about, with the sea still running high, one of the two boats astern got entangled and filled with water, when the stem of one of them unfortunately parted, and she immediately sunk. It was indeed with great difficulty that the other was saved, by two of the crew jumping into her, at the risk of their lives; and having baled out the water with buckets, she was got safely on board.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 30th.]
[Sidenote: Great dexterity of the Landing-master and his crew.]
This accident obliged the vessel to be anchored all night in the Bay of Arbroath, and having got another boat she sailed this morning at 5 o’clock. On reaching the Rock, it was found that a very heavy sea still ran upon it; but the writer having been disappointed on the two former occasions, and, as the erection of the house might now be considered complete, there being nothing wanted externally, excepting some of the storm-shutters for the defence of the windows, he was the more anxious at this time to inspect it. Two well manned boats were therefore ordered to be in attendance; and, after some difficulty, the wind being at N.N.E., they got safely into the western creek, though not without encountering plentiful sprays. It would have been impossible to have attempted a landing to-day, under any other circumstances than with boats perfectly adapted to the purpose, and with seamen who knew every ledge of the Rock, and even the length of the sea-weeds at each particular spot, so as to dip their oars into the water accordingly, and thereby prevent them from getting entangled. But what was of no less consequence to the safety of the party, Captain Wilson, who always steered the leading boat, had a perfect knowledge of the set of the different waves, while the crew never shifted their eyes from observing his motions, and the strictest silence was preserved by every individual except himself. Under such regulations, which were observed on all occasions of difficulty, the landings at the Rock proceeded with the greatest regularity, and by this means, safety, and even comfort, were enjoyed, where, under different circumstances, there would have been much peril. The second or attending boat was steered by James Shepherd the experienced coxwain of the Floating-light, whose directions were to keep about two oars’ length astern. This boat was generally kept light, and as free of incumbrance as possible, that she might be ready to assist in any case of emergency. The writer is the more particular upon this subject, as he conceives that much of the success of the Bell Rock operations depended on the safety which attended the many thousands of landings made in all sorts of weather.
[Sidenote: State of the Railways.]
On landing at the Rock this morning, the writer found the Railways much broken up on the eastern-reach and the circular track round the building; while the western-reach, extending to upwards of 290 feet, had also materially suffered. In several places it had got an inclination to one side, by the force of the N.E. seas, which came sweeping round the Rock, and it was evident it could not withstand the gales of winter. The Norway logs, on which these railways were supported, had not only been much reduced in strength, by the ravages of the insect formerly noticed, but, from this cause also, the rails had got a tremulous motion in heavy seas, which had shaken loose several of the bolts. It was, however, so far well that they had already answered the immediate purpose intended by them.
[Sidenote: State of the beams of the Beacon.]
The Beacon-house was found, upon examination, to be in general in a good state of repair, though the lower parts, where the beams rested upon the Rock, had suffered from the insect. Several of them, as before noticed, had been so much hollowed, where they at first rested on the Rock, that the hand could be introduced into the heart of the log, while the exterior of the timber, for an inch or two in thickness, remained quite entire; the charring of the surface, and the hot-pitch, wherever it could be applied, having completely preserved it. Several of the beams, however, now rested chiefly upon the bolts, which passed through the great iron-stanchions sunk into the Rock, as represented in Plate VIII. But this fabric had nearly served its purpose, and there was a prospect of its being taken down next summer. It has before been noticed that these effects, at the parts where the beams rested, or were in contact with the Rock, had not been anticipated. But, in the event of a similar erection on any part of the British coast, it would be proper to provide against this by sinking the foot of the principal beams 8 inches into the Rock, and shoeing them with sheet lead or copper; though the action of the latter metal with the iron-work might be somewhat objectionable, and might render a coating with tin advisable.
[Sidenote: State of the Light-house.]
Having examined the Beacon-house, he next passed to the Light-house, by the horizontal rope-ladder represented in Plate IX. The lower part of the building, as high as the perpendicular range of the tide, was coated all over with marine plants; toward the north-east, this appearance had indeed reached about 50 feet in height. On entering the house, he had the pleasure to find it in a somewhat habitable condition, the lower apartments being closed in with temporary windows, and fitted with proper storm-shutters. It may here be remarked as a strong instance of the very fortunate position of the Entrance-door, that although the sea had risen to the height of upwards of 80 feet, on the eastern side of the Light-house, it had not, as yet, been found necessary to have it hung, although Mr Slight was now setting about this operation, by the insertion of the Lewis-bats or tails of the hinges, into their respective brass-boxes, previously built into the walls. There being, as yet, no inner-door for the passage, temporary-hatches were also still wanting for the man-holes of the several floors, to check the sifting air, which, in westerly winds, made the house very cold, and carried along with it particles of dust, which might have become injurious to the reflecting-apparatus.
[Sidenote: Condition of the several apartments.]
The lowest apartment at the head of the stair-case was occupied with water, fuel, and provisions, put up in a temporary way, until the house could be furnished with proper utensils. The second or light-room store was, at present, much encumbered with various tools and apparatus for the use of the workmen. The kitchen immediately over this had, as yet, been supplied only with a common ship’s coboose, and plate-iron funnel, while the necessary cooking utensils had been taken from the Beacon. The bed-room was, for the present, used as the joiners’ workshop, and the strangers’ room, immediately under the light-room, was occupied by the artificers, the beds being ranged in tiers, as was done in the barrack of the Beacon. The light-room, though unprovided with its machinery, being now covered over with the cupola, glazed and painted, had a very complete and cleanly appearance. The balcony was only as yet fitted with a temporary rail, consisting of a few iron stanchions, connected with ropes; and in this state it was necessary to leave it during the winter.
[Sidenote: Light-house put under charge of Mr John Reid.]
Having gone over the whole of the low-water works on the Rock, the Beacon and Light-house, and being satisfied that only the most untoward accident in the landing of the machinery could prevent the exhibition of the light, in the course of the winter; Mr John Reid, formerly of the Floating-light, was now put in charge of the light-house as principal keeper; Mr James Slight had charge of the operations of the artificers; while Mr James Dove and the smiths having finished the frame of the light-room, left the Rock for the present. With these arrangements the writer bade adieu to the works for the season. At 11 A. M. the tide was far advanced; and there being now little or no shelter for the boats at the Rock, they had to be pulled through the breach of sea, which came on board in great quantities, and it was with extreme difficulty that they could be kept in the proper direction of the landing-creek.--On this occasion, he may be permitted to look back with gratitude on the many escapes made in the course of this arduous undertaking, now brought so near to a successful conclusion.
[Sidenote: November.]
[Sidenote: Saturday, 3d.]
[Sidenote: The Boat is washed off the Beacon.]
The wind having, on Saturday the 3d of November, shifted to the N. E., with showers of snow, accompanied by a very heavy swell of sea, it was stated, in the monthly return from the Rock, that the water had come in considerable quantities into the threshold of the entrance-door, which, on this occasion, had to be shut. During this gale, it was thought that the Beacon would certainly have been carried away by the force of the tremendous seas which fell upon it, and often washed over it at high-water. The small boat suspended from projected davits at the height of 30 feet above the Rock, as shown in Plate VIII., got full of water by the accidental stopping of the eyelet-hole, while the friction occasioned by the tremulous motion of the Beacon, and beating of the waves, chaffed one of the bow-tackle ropes: she then hung suspended from the stem-tackle, and every sea which came rolling along gave her a new impulse: this soon wore out the remaining tackle, and she was at length swept away, after having kept her position since mid-summer.
[Sidenote: Sprays rise 104 feet on the Light-house.]
On one occasion, while the inmates of the Light-house were standing on the balcony, looking with attention at the wonderful state of the sea, the sprays conducted by the walls, came full in their faces, and, passing partly over their heads, struck upon the second tier of the glass-panes of the light-room, which is 104 feet from the Rock! During this gale, a thrilling motion was sensibly felt throughout the building, upon leaning against the walls at particular periods, when the seas struck the base of the house. The rise of the spray to the height above mentioned rather surprised the writer, as he had not himself at any time seen it higher than about 70 feet. He had, however, felt the tremulous effect alluded to; and it has already been remarked, that it is not while the gale continues that the sea strikes so hard, or rises to so great a height; but after the abatement of the storm, when the waves begin to break in the manner represented in the frontispiece.
[Sidenote: Sprays fly over the Floating-light.]
This gale was also much felt on board of the Floating-light. Captain Wilson states, in his account of the weather, that he had to veer out the long-service, or about 90 fathoms of cable, and often to freshen hawse, or to shift that part of the cable which was immediately in the hawsehole of the ship. The seas also which struck the bows of the vessel were generally carried as far aft as the quarter-deck, and were not unfrequently thrown over the stern. This gale was, therefore, considered to have been as severe as that of September 1807, already described. The Light-house Yacht, now acting as Tender at the Rock, having been driven from her station, had taken shelter in Burntisland Roads, ready on the first change of weather to return to the Rock. The Smeaton and Patriot were fortunately in Arbroath, discharging their cargoes of stones from Milnfield, for the establishment on shore.
[Sidenote: Mr Reid and Mr Fortune left in the Light-house.]
On Monday the 5th, the Yacht again visited the Rock; when Mr Slight and the artificers returned with her to the work-yard, where a number of things were still to prepare connected with the temporary fitting up of the accommodation for the light-keepers. Mr John Reid and Peter Fortune were now the only inmates of the house. This was the smallest number of persons hitherto left in the Light-house. As four light-keepers were to be the complement, it was intended that three should always be at the Rock. Its present inmates, however, could hardly have been better selected for such a situation; Mr Reid being a person possessed of the strictest notions of duty, and habits of regularity, from long service on board of a man-of-war, while Mr Fortune had one of the most happy and contented dispositions imaginable.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, 13th.]
[Sidenote: Experience a heavy gale.]
From Saturday the 10th till Tuesday the 13th, the wind had been from N.E., blowing a heavy gale; but to-day, the weather having greatly moderated, Captain Taylor, who now commanded the Smeaton, sailed at 2 o’clock A. M. for the Bell Rock. At 5 the Floating-light was hailed, and found to be all well. Being a fine moon-light morning, the seamen were changed from the one ship to the other. At 8, the Smeaton being off the Rock, the boats were manned, and taking a supply of water, fuel, and other necessaries, landed at the western side, when Mr Reid and Mr Fortune were found in good health and spirits. They reported, that the sea had run very heavily, and rose at times nearly to the balcony of the Light-house, when it fell with great weight and violence on the Beacon-house; that, on Sunday the 11th, the wooden-frame of the western wharf was carried away; and that the railways to the eastward were also much shattered and broken by large detached masses of rock, brought from deep water by the impulse of the sea, some of which left on the Rock were apparently of the cubical contents of several tons. Though none of these stones have yet been traced as belonging to any particular part of the Rock, yet they are all of the same red sandstone. It was intended at this time, that a large stock of coals and water should have been got into the Light-house, before the Smeaton went to Leith, to load the remainder of the apparatus; but this, from the state of the weather, was found impracticable, and she therefore returned to Arbroath, to wait a change of weather.
[Sidenote: 1810, November.]
[Sidenote: Saturday, 1st.]
[Sidenote: Their description of the effects of the Sea upon the Light-House.]
It having been intimated at the work-yard, that a log of timber had come ashore at West-Haven, about six miles from Arbroath, James Glen, who knew every piece of timber upon the Bell Rock, was dispatched, to ascertain if it had drifted from thence; and, on his return, reported that the log had belonged to the Western Wharf. Mr Slight having got his apparatus prepared, went again off to the Rock with the workmen, when a large additional supply of water, fuel, and provisions, was also landed. It was now ascertained, that the whole of the western wharf, and part of its connecting railway, had been carried away, and that the circular-track and eastern-reach of the railways were much damaged. Mr Reid farther stated, that, during the late gales, particularly on Friday the 30th, the wind veering from S.E. to N.E., both he and Mr Fortune sensibly felt the house tremble, when particular seas struck, about the time of high-water; the former observing that it was a tremor of that sort which rather tended to convince him that every thing about the building was sound, and reminded him of the effect produced, when a good log of timber is struck sharply with a mallet; but, with every confidence in the stability of the building, he nevertheless confessed, that, in so forlorn a situation, they were not insensible to those emotions which, he emphatically observed, “made a man look back upon his former life.”
[Sidenote: 1810, December.]
[Sidenote: Thursday, 6th.]
[Sidenote: The Red-coloured glass arrives at Leith.]
The Smeaton was now much wanted at Leith, where Mr Forrest had arrived from London on the 1st, with the plates of red-coloured glass; but the weather continued boisterous, and she was detained in the harbour of Arbroath with a gale at S.W. To-day the writer got notice from Mr Andrew Roger, merchant in St Monance, that some fishermen belonging to that village had picked up a raft of timber, strongly bolted together. This turned out to be part of the timber of the Western Wharf, which had drifted from the Rock on the 11th, and had been ever since floating about the Firth of Forth. It was picked up on the coast of Fife, about nine miles to the westward of the Isle of May.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.]
[Sidenote: The Reflecting apparatus sent from Leith.]
The wind having shifted last night, the Smeaton sailed from Arbroath at 10 P. M., for Leith, to take on board the whole of the remaining appurtenances necessary for the exhibition of the Light. She got into Leith harbour on the 9th, about mid-day, when the apparatus was immediately put on board; but the weather was unfavourable for going down the Firth of Forth. To-day, however, the wind being west, with a better appearance, the following persons sailed for the Rock, viz. Mr James Dove, smith, who was to screw together the frame for the Reflecting-apparatus; Mr James Clark, clock-maker, who had constructed, and was now to regulate, the Revolving-machinery for the lights; and Mr John Forrest, who had the general superintendance of the keepers’ duty of the Northern Light-houses, and being also foreman for Light-room repairs in the service, was to adjust the reflectors and lamps, and remain at the Bell Rock until every thing was found to proceed in a satisfactory manner.
[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.]
[Sidenote: An attempt is made to land at the Rock.]
At day-light this morning, however, the Smeaton was still eight or nine miles from the Light-house, with hardly any wind. In the prospect of effecting a landing, Captain Taylor manned the boat when about two miles distant from the Rock, intending to leave the above persons, and afterwards to take the earliest opportunity of landing the apparatus, the tide being now too far spent for attempting the latter operation. The only articles taken in the boat, besides their personal luggage, were the two boxes of red-glass, which having already cost so much trouble, and requiring so much care, Mr Forrest, with his usual caution, had determined not to lose sight of. The party thus proceeded, but, on reaching the Rock, they had the mortification to find it nearly under water, with such a breach of sea that no boat could approach it. They were, therefore, obliged to return to the ship, perishing with cold, and chagrined with disappointment.
[Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.]
[Sidenote: Reflecting-apparatus safely landed.]
The wind still continued from N.W., but, most fortunately for the business of the day, the weather was moderate. Having last night called at the Floating-light, it was arranged with Captain Wilson, that he should attend by day-light at the Rock, with one of his boats, to assist in landing the Smeaton’s cargo. The passengers went off first, carrying in their boat the two cases of coloured-glass, and a few other articles, while the Floating-light’s boat followed with the machinery; and by noon the whole of the Reflecting-apparatus was got safely into the Light-house. Mr Forrest having thus been enabled to give advice, which reached the writer on the 17th, that all the articles had been safely landed; and foreseeing that every thing would be in readiness in the course of about four weeks, a specification of the appearance of the light was prepared, to the following effect, for public advertisement.
[Sidenote: Monday, 17th.]
[Sidenote: The Light is advertised to the Public.]
“NAVIGATION OF THE NORTH SEAS.--A Light-house having been erected upon the Inch Cape, or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay, in north Lat. 56° 29´, and west Long. 2° 22´,--The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses hereby give notice, That the Light will be from oil, with reflectors, placed at the height of about 108 feet above the medium level of the sea. The light will be exhibited on the night of Friday, the 1st day of February 1811, and each night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening until the return of day-light in the morning. To distinguish this light from others on the coast, it is made to revolve horizontally, and to exhibit a bright light of the natural appearance, and a red-coloured light, alternately, both respectively attaining their greatest strength or most luminous effect in the space of every four minutes; during that period, the bright light will, to a distant observer, appear like a star of the first magnitude, which, after attaining its full strength, is gradually eclipsed to total darkness; and is succeeded by the red-coloured light, which in like manner increases to full strength, and again diminishes and disappears. The coloured-light, however, being less powerful, may not be seen for a time after the bright light is first observed. During the continuance of foggy weather, and showers of snow, a Bell will be tolled, by machinery, night and day, at intervals of half a minute. NOTICE is hereby also given, That the Floating-light, moored two and a half miles N.W. ½ N. from the Bell Rock, will, from and after the 1st day of February 1811, be _discontinued_, and, as soon thereafter as the weather permits, the vessel will be removed from her station.”
[Sidenote: List of Newspapers.]
To give this Notice publicity, it was advertised in the following Newspapers:
SCOTCH.
Edinburgh Weekly Chronicle.
---- Courant.
---- Correspondent.
---- Mercury.
---- Advertiser.
---- Star.
---- Journal.
Leith Telegraph.
Dundee Advertiser.
---- Mercury.
Perth Courier.
Montrose Review.
Aberdeen Journal.
---- Chronicle.
Inverness Journal.
Glasgow Journal.
---- Courier.
---- Western Star.
---- Sentinel.
---- Packet.
---- Herald.
Greenock Advertiser.
ENGLISH.
London Gazette.
---- Globe.
---- Morning Post.
London Courier.
---- Chronicle.
Plymouth Telegraph.
---- Chronicle.
Bristol Gazette.
---- Journal.
---- Mirror.
---- Mercury.
Liverpool Courier.
---- Advertiser.
---- General Advertiser.
---- Saturday Advertiser.
Cumberland Packet.
Newcastle Courant.
---- Chronicle.
---- Advertiser.
---- Tyne Mercury.
Hull and Rockingham Packet.
Hull and Rockingham Advertiser.
York Courant.
---- Herald.
---- Chronicle.
Norwich Mercury.
Hampshire Telegraph.
IRISH.
Dublin Evening Post.
---- Patriot.
[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.]
[Sidenote: The Light-keepers are left in possession of the House.]
The Tender having got a landing made on the 27th December, every thing at the Light-house was found in a prosperous state. Mr Dove and Mr Clark had finished their work about two hours before the Smeaton came in sight; and Mr Slight had also completed all that was proposed to be done to the interior finishing of the apartments this winter; so that Mr Forrest, with Messrs Reid, Bonyman, Leask, and Fortune, the keepers, were now left in possession of the Light-house.