CHAPTER III.

PHAROS FLOATING LIGHT-SHIP.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE OPERATIONS ON THE BELL-ROCK.--ERECTION OF THE BEACON-HOUSE, AND FURTHER PROGRESS OF THE LIGHT-HOUSE WORKS IN 1807.

[Sidenote: Floating-Light.]

The Act of Parliament, by which the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses were empowered to undertake the works at the Bell Rock, having only received the Royal Assent late in the month of July 1806, there was not sufficient time for making the necessary preparations for their commencement that season. But the writer, on his return from London, received instructions from the Board to have such preliminary steps in view, as would enable him to begin the operations early in the summer of 1807. This being arranged, he sailed in the month of August, on his annual voyage, for the inspection of the Northern Light-houses.

[Sidenote: Act provides for a Floating-Light and Beacon.]

The bill for the Bell Rock Light-house was drawn up, under a strong impression of the uncertainty which must attend the whole of the works at the rock, and doubts were accordingly entertained as to the estimated expence being adequate to the accomplishment of the undertaking. A clause had, therefore, been introduced, authorising the collection of the light-house duties of one penny halfpenny _per_ register ton from British vessels, and threepence _per_ ton from foreigners, “immediately upon mooring or anchoring a ship or vessel, and exhibiting a floating or other light, at or near the Bell Rock,” and “half the amount of the said duties respectively,” on the erection of “a proper beacon or distinguishing mark or object on the said Bell Rock.” The measures first in order were, consequently, to fit out and moor a floating-light and to erect a beacon on the Bell Rock, that shipping might derive immediate advantage from them, while the light-house was in progress; and also that the funds of the Board might, as early as possible, have the benefit of the additional duties. We therefore proceed to give an account of the outfit and mooring of this vessel, and of the erection of the beacon-house, without attending strictly to the chronological order of the works.

The writer had frequent communications with the late Captain Huddart, of the Trinity-House of London, and other nautical men, both as to the form of a vessel, and the moorings proper for a situation like the Bell Rock: here the depth of water could not be less than from seventeen to nineteen fathoms at the lowest tide, whereas, on the English coast, the depth where floating lights are, in general, moored, does not exceed seven or eight fathoms, and their moorings, consequently, much more easily managed. The writer had also visited the floating light of the Nore, at the entrance of the river Thames; and he was induced, upon the whole, to conclude, that a vessel built after the manner and construction of the Dutch fishing-doggers, would be the most suitable for riding at anchor in the open sea, and that her moorings should consist partly of an iron chain, and partly of a hempen cable.

_Pharos Floating Light-ship._

[Sidenote: Fishing Dogger purchased, and named The Pharos.]

In the year 1806, a great number of vessels were taken by our cruizers, upon the coasts of Holland, Denmark, and Norway, many of which were carried into Leith to be sold. One of these, a Prussian, which happened to be captured while fishing on the Dogger Bank, was purchased for the Bell Rock service. This vessel was of a flat construction, rounded off both at the stem and stern, agreeably to the ordinary make of these doggers. She was called the Tonge Gerrit, but was afterwards named the Pharos, in allusion to the celebrated Pharos of Alexandria. She measured 67 feet in length, and 16 feet in breadth, upon deck, 8 feet depth of hold, and was 82 tons register. It was, however, only the form of her hull that fitted her for our purpose; her rigging and whole equipment having to undergo a complete alteration, for the light-house service.

[Sidenote: Fitted out under the direction of the Trinity-House, Leith.]

The establishing of a floating-light being quite new upon the coast of Scotland, and that every thing connected with this vessel might be done upon the best principles, the writer procured the assistance of Mr Joseph Webb, an experienced pilot of Yarmouth, who had attended the fitting up of one of the floating lights stationed off that coast, and who had been recommended by the Trinity Board of London as a person of skill, for instructing the master of the vessel in all the details of the service. Several of the Captains of the Trinity-House of Leith also obligingly formed themselves into a committee, and from time to time assisted in giving directions as to the necessary repairs and outfit of the vessel.

Agreeably to this arrangement, the Prussian dogger was put into one of the graving docks of Leith, in the month of March 1807, and underwent a complete examination, when it was found that she required a few new timbers in her bottom; and that to strengthen her upper works, several new beams and additional knees were necessary. Her bottom had to be new trenailed and caulked, and then sheathed with fir plank. Her ceiling, or interior lining, was also caulked, and made water-tight, in case of accident to the outer plank, in the event of her breaking adrift, and getting upon the Bell Rock. Her deck-plank and upper works were also entirely renewed; and from stem to stern, under deck, her accommodations were laid out anew. She was furnished with three masts, of a length calculated to enable her to ride with as little incumbrance as possible in a storm; the main-mast being only thirty-five feet above the deck, while the fore and mizen masts were each twenty-five feet. The rigging was also made of light cordage, and she was provided with storm-sails, to be used in the event of her breaking adrift in bad weather. By the time, therefore, that this vessel came from the hands of the carpenters, very little of the old work remained, as nothing had been omitted, which could, in any manner, add to her strength and durability. She was fitted up with births for about thirty artificers, besides her ordinary crew and officers, amounting to thirteen in number, independently of her hold for oil and stores of various descriptions. In the distribution of these, the fore-peak of the ship was allotted for the sailors; the waist for the artificers; and galley appropriated to the cooking of the victuals. Next to this, a large cabin was set off for the master, mate, and principal light-keeper, and for the foremen of the works; while the after or stern part of the ship formed a cabin for the use of the engineer.

[Sidenote: Peculiar construction of Lanterns.]

The Pharos was furnished with a large copper lantern for each mast, containing ten lamps, with small silver-plated reflectors, ranged upon a chandelier, moveable at pleasure, in a horizontal direction, for the conveniency of turning the lamps to trim them and clean the reflectors. To make the vessel ride as easily as possible, in a situation so exposed, the lanterns were made of a peculiar construction, so as to screw together upon the masts, in two pieces, longitudinally, as represented in Plate X., Figs. 1, 2, and 3. By these means, the light could be seen in every direction, without the necessity of suspending them in the usual manner from yards, or other weighty apparatus, which tend not only to obscure the light, but also to make the ship ride heavily in bad weather.

[Sidenote: Construction of Moorings.]

The moorings of the floating light consisted of a large mushroom anchor, of cast-iron, weighing about a ton and a half, and made with a shank and head, resembling in form, as nearly as may be, the vegetable from which it takes its name. This anchor was made with a malleable iron shank, but latterly these mushroom anchors were made wholly of cast-iron, as represented in Plate X., Fig. 4. A chain of fifty fathoms in length, was attached to the anchor, made of inch and half bars of iron, to which a hempen cable, of 14 inches in circumference, and 120 fathoms in length, was connected, to be veered out according to the state of the weather.

[Sidenote: Pharos is towed to the Roads.]

The Pharos being ready for sea, was, on the 9th of July, towed out of the harbour of Leith to the Roads, by the Light-house Yacht, a cutter-rigged vessel attached to the general service of the Northern Light-houses. The Yacht had the Pharos’ moorings on board, and was appointed to conduct her to the Bell Rock, and lay them down. A curious enough circumstance took place, when the crew of the floating-light was mustered, before leaving the harbour: two of the seamen having taken alarm, at the destination of the ship, and the nature of the service in which they were about to embark, suddenly turned about, and, to the great surprise of their comrades, ran with the utmost precipitation from the ship; to which they never again returned. Their places, however, were supplied with others, without much inconvenience.

[Sidenote: Committee of the Trinity-House go to the Bell Rock.]

As the gentlemen of the Trinity-house of Leith, had all along taken a particular interest in the fitting out of the floating-light, the Commissioners requested their assistance in fixing upon the precise spot in which she should be moored, for the direction of ships passing the Bell Rock. This they readily complied with, suggesting, at the same time, that some of the shipmasters of Arbroath, who were locally acquainted with the coast, should also be invited to give their opinion and advice upon this point. A few of the most experienced ship-masters and merchants of Arbroath were accordingly invited to come off, when the floating light should make her appearance in their neighbourhood. Matters being thus arranged, the writer went on board of the Light-house Yacht, on the 10th, accompanied by Mr Thomas Grindlay, master of the Trinity-house of Leith, with Mr John Hay, and Mr Thomas Ritchie, Assistant-Masters.

[Sidenote: Pharos sails for the Bell Rock.]

At 8 A. M. the Pharos got under way in Leith Roads, and sailed for her station at the Bell Rock, under the command of Mr George Sinclair, with a crew of twelve in number. But as she sailed very heavily, the Yacht, with her party, did not follow till noon, and about 2 P. M. came up with her, and took her in tow, when it came to blow fresh breezes from SW. At 6, both vessels anchored for the night on the eastern side of the Isle of May, as, by continuing our course, we should have reached the Bell Rock under night, which was then an object of terror to every seaman, and must have been attended with danger, from its then undistinguished state.

[Sidenote: Committee from Arbroath join the party.]

While the Yacht and Pharos lay at anchor at the Isle of May, Mr David Balfour, Mr Andrew Duncan, Mr David Cargill, Mr John Fleming, and Mr William Kidd, as a Committee from Arbroath, having hired a vessel, left that place in the morning, and hailed the Yacht, soon after she came to an anchor, when some of their party joined us on board. As the accommodations of the floating light were very ample, having only the ship’s company on board, it was proposed that the whole party should meet in her, and pass the night; but she rolled from side to side, in so extraordinary a manner, that even the most sea-hardy of our number were content to remain in a state of separation, rather than accept of the best birth in the floating light. It was humorously observed of this vessel, “that she was in some danger of making a round turn, and appearing with her keel uppermost.” Another said, “she would roll out her masts;” and a third that she would “even turn a halfpenny, if laid upon deck.” These, and such like remarks, afforded much pleasantry on board of the Light-house Yacht, and were suggested by the manner in which the Pharos rolled and _yawed_ about, when compared with the more easy motion of the other vessels. Being then in light ballast trim to fit her for riding in bad weather, and very flat in the bottom, the smallest wave set her in motion, when at anchor; and when under way, she was little better, for she answered the helm with so much difficulty, that a large decked Praam-boat, which she had in tow, was upset in the passage from Leith. The writer is the more particular on this subject, as the rolling motion of the floating-light became proverbial in the Light-house service, and continued a source of much trouble and uneasiness to all concerned, especially while she was used as a tender or store-ship for the works.

[Sidenote: Pharos anchors in a temporary birth.]

Early in the morning of the 11th, the vessels left their anchorage at the Isle of May, and sailed for the Bell Rock; but on reaching it, in the course of the forenoon, the wind came to the eastward, accompanied with thick hazy weather, and drizzling showers of rain, which so completely hid the distant landmarks from view, that there was a necessity for ordering the Pharos to come to an anchor with her best bower, on the smoothest spot of ground that could be found, until a change of weather should admit of her being moored in a proper manner. The weather afterwards became so foggy that every object was lost sight of. The vessel which had brought our friends from Arbroath, put into that harbour in the course of the evening, but the Light-house Yacht kept at sea till the morning of the 12th, when it came to blow so fresh, that she also went into that harbour, to wait a change of weather. On the 14th, it improved, and the Yacht again sailed for the Bell Rock. On returning to the floating light, we were happy to find that all was well on board, though Mr Sinclair and Mr Webb, the pilot, complained that their anchorage was not very good, as the bottom was hard, and the soundings or particles brought up with the lead exhibited sharp coral and coarse gravel. After plying about for some time with the Yacht, and sounding in every direction, a place was at length fixed upon, about a mile and a half in a north-westerly direction from the Bell Rock. The Yacht, as before noticed, having on board the floating-light’s moorings, anchored on the spot most approved of for laying them down.

[Sidenote: In laying down her Moorings, the whole chain goes overboard.]

Some arrangements having been made among the nautical gentlemen, as to the precise mode of going about this operation, it was resolved to suspend the mushroom anchor over the gunwale of the Yacht, and before letting it into the water, to bring the greater part of the chain upon deck, taking the precaution to make the further end of it fast to the lower part of the mast, in the vessel’s hold, with a very strong and perfectly new stopper, or piece of rope, measuring 7 inches in circumference. It was not doubted but that this strong rope would have held the chain against any strain that might have been brought upon it, in the process of letting down the moorings. But the mushroom-anchor was no sooner let go from the ship’s tackle, than the part of the chain which had been coiled upon deck went overboard with such velocity, that it communicated a similar impetus to the remainder of the chain in the hold, and the strain coming ultimately upon the stopper, snapped through the several parts which fixed the end of the chain to the mast, and, consequently, the whole went to the bottom with the mushroom-anchor.

[Sidenote: Moorings recovered with great difficulty.]

This untoward circumstance greatly disconcerted and embarrassed the operations of mooring the floating-light, as the chain had now to be fished or hooked at the bottom, and raised from the depth of seventeen fathoms. After many trials, we at length succeeded in hooking it with a grappling-iron, but as it happened to lay hold only a few fathoms from the anchor, it required all the purchase-blocks and tackle of the Yacht and Pharos to raise it: for the weight, including the anchor, and so large a portion of the chain, could not be less than about three tons. This operation was begun at mid-day, and, although the united force of the crews of both ships was fully mustered, it was not till two o’clock on the following morning,--being a period of fourteen hours,--that the moorings were got up, and the Pharos brought alongside of the Yacht, to receive the hempen cable, which was made fast to the _clinch_, or great ring, connected with the chain moorings. The weather was fortunately the most favourable that could have been desired for this operation; and it is impossible for the writer to describe the anxiety and exertions of all on board in getting this matter adjusted. Were he to judge by his own feelings, he has no doubt that all on board would join in saying, that it was one of the most painfully laborious days they had spent in the course of their existence. For the space of about twenty hours, the crews of both ships had never been off deck, and during twelve of these the hand-spike, or the tackle, had not been five minutes together out of their hands, as the refreshments which they got were served up at the windlass. The same observations are literally applicable to the gentlemen of the quarter-deck, who divided their attention severally to the different tackles and purchases employed in raising the moorings.

The perplexing and tedious business of mooring the floating-light having been happily got over, it was judged necessary to see how she would ride at anchor for a time, before advertising the light to the public. The writer accordingly returned on board in the course of three weeks, and examined the moorings, which were found in good order. The anchorage ground was also considered of a very proper description, in so far as observations, made during a tract of favourable weather, had afforded the means of judging. The vessel lay in an excellent position for the direction of shipping; and being at this time only about a mile from the Bell Rock, her situation as a hulk or store-ship for the light-house operations, was as favourable as the relative position of the rock would admit. In this state of things, notice to the following effect was given in the newspapers, for the direction of mariners, and along with a copy of the notice, a chart or sketch of the opposite coast was sent to the different Custom-houses.

[Sidenote: Description of the Floating-Light.]

“In virtue of an Act of Parliament of the 46th year of Geo. III. chap. 132. authorising the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses to erect a Light-house on the Bell Rock, to place a floating light there, and to collect duties thereupon,--notice is hereby given, that a vessel, fitted out for a floating-light, is now moored off the Cape or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay, in North Lat. 56° 27´, and West Long. 2° 27´.

“The moorings of the floating-light consist of a mushroom anchor, and chain, laid down in 17 fathoms water, the Bell Rock bearing, by compass, E. S. E. distant one mile; the Red Head, N. by E. ¼ E. distant thirteen miles; Fifeness, S. W. ¾ W. distant twelve miles; and the island of May S. W. ¾ S. distant seventeen miles.

“A light from oil, with reflectors, will be exhibited upon the night of the 15th day of September 1807, and thereafter every night, from the going away of day-light in the evening, till the return of day-light in the morning. To distinguish this light from the double lights at the entrance of the Firth of Tay, and on the Scares off the coast of Northumberland, and also from the single light on the Island of May, three distinct lights will be shown from the Bell Rock Floating-light, by a lantern hoisted to the top of each mast, which will be visible from every point of the compass, at the distance of from two to three leagues; the lanterns on the fore and mizen masts being elevated 23 feet, and that on the main mast 31 feet, above the vessel’s deck; the lights, when seen from either side of the ship, have the appearance of a triangle, but if seen end-on, they appear as two lights, the one above the other.

“This vessel is called the Pharos; she was formerly a fishing dogger, and appears like a ship under jury masts; during the day-time, a blue flag, with a light-house in the field, will be displayed from the main-mast; and, in thick and foggy weather, a bell will be tolled, night and day, on board, with an interval of about one minute.

“Although this vessel has been fitted out in the completest manner, and every attention paid to mooring her properly, yet, as all floating-lights are liable to break adrift in tempestuous weather, mariners are requested not to neglect their landmarks, and to run with caution for the floating-light.

“The Pharos being also intended to answer the purpose of a store-ship, while the light-house is building on the Bell Rock, it may be found necessary, in the course of the works, to alter her present station, of which due notice will be given.”

_Commencement of the Operations on the Bell Rock._

[Sidenote: 1807, August.]

As the commencement of works of masonry, requiring stones of large dimensions, is unavoidably tedious, especially in the collecting of materials, we shall at present only notice, that the Light-house Board having resolved on the use partly of granite and partly of sandstone, for the erection at the Bell Rock, measures were duly taken for procuring a supply of the former from the quarry of Rubeslaw near Aberdeen, and of the latter from Mylnefield near Dundee. But, instead of following out this part of our subject in its order, we shall first proceed to a detail of the operations _afloat_, as they may be termed, or of the works upon the rock itself, during the season of 1807,--particularly of the erection of the principal beams of the beacon-house, or temporary residence for the artificers on the rock, and of the progress made in the preparation of the foundation or site of the main building.

[Sidenote: Sloop Smeaton.]

We therefore observe, that a vessel had been built at Leith, in the course of the spring, expressly for the Bell Rock service, to be employed as a tender for the floating-light, and as a stone-lighter for the use of the work. This vessel was launched in the month of June; she measured 40 tons register, was rigged as a sloop, and fitted in all respects in the strongest manner, to adapt her as much as possible for the perilous service in which she was to be employed. She was called The Smeaton,--a name which the writer had great pleasure in suggesting, as a mark of respect for the memory of the celebrated engineer of the Eddystone Light-house, whose narrative was to become a kind of text-book for the Bell Rock operations. The Smeaton was ready for sea in the beginning of August, and reached Arbroath upon the 5th day of that month. Arbroath being the most contiguous harbour to the Bell Rock, naturally pointed out itself as the proper place for establishing the works, and preparing the materials, before shipping them for the rock. The writer had, accordingly, been here for some time, making the necessary preparations; and when the Smeaton arrived, he found himself in a condition for commencing the operations, in a systematic manner, upon the rock itself.

[Sidenote: The Positions of the Light-House and Beacon fixed on.]

The floating-light rode in safety at her moorings, and had hitherto been supplied with necessaries by the Yacht belonging to the general service of the Light-house Board. In this vessel, occasional trips had also been made to the rock; but on the arrival of the Smeaton, the Yacht sailed on a voyage, with stores for the use of the Northern Light-houses. In these preliminary trips, the writer had fixed, in his own mind, upon the parts of the rock most favourable for the position of the light-house, and on the south-west of it, he chose the site of the beacon-house, that it might be sheltered, in some measure, from the breach of the north-east sea; and by placing them contiguous, or about twenty-five feet apart, they admitted of a ready communication with each other in the more advanced stages of the work.

[Sidenote: 1807, 7th August.]

[Sidenote: First trip of the Artificers to the Bell Rock.]

The Smeaton having got on board necessaries for the floating-light, and three sets of chain-moorings with mushroom-anchors, and large floating buoys, the writer sailed on another preliminary visit to the Bell Rock on the 7th day of August, carrying with him Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, and five artificers, selected, on this occasion, from their having been somewhat accustomed to the sea; the writer being aware of the distressing trial which the floating-light would necessarily inflict upon landsmen, from her rolling motion. Here he remained till the 10th, and as the weather was favourable, a landing was effected daily, when the workmen were employed in cutting the large sea-weed from the sites of the light-house and beacon, which were respectively traced with pick-axes upon the rock. In the mean time, the crew of the Smeaton was employed in laying down the several sets of moorings within about half a mile of the rock, for the conveniency of vessels riding at the buoys by a hawser, instead of letting go an anchor, which, in that situation, could seldom have been purchased or lifted again, as it would constantly have hooked the rocky bottom, a disadvantage to which the mushroom anchor, from its figure and construction, is not liable, as will be understood by examining the diagram representing it in Plate X. Fig. 4. The artificers having fortunately experienced moderate weather, returned to the work-yard at Arbroath, with a good report of their treatment afloat; when their comrades ashore began to feel some anxiety to see a place of which they had heard so much, and to change the constant operation with the iron and mallet in the process of hewing, for an occasional tide’s work on the rock, which they figured to themselves as a state of comparative ease and comfort.

[Sidenote: Rate of Artificers’ wages fixed on.]

In answer to some advances which had been made on this subject by the artificers, the foreman was instructed to select fourteen of the stone-cutters, who had been accustomed to the use of the pick-axe, and to boring or drilling holes with a jumper, after the manner of quarriers, to go off to the rock in the course of a few days. When these men, however, came to be spoken to more closely, some of them were disposed to hold their services rather at a high rate, demanding two guineas per week if they were to find their own provisions, and L. 1, 10s. if provisions were found to them. But they were informed, that the nominal rate of wages was to be L. 1 per week, being the same for those employed at the rock, as for those in the work-yard at Arbroath. The artificers at the rock were, in addition, to have their provisions, with certain premiums, to be arranged in the further progress of the work, particularly for each tide’s work on Sunday, which was to be accounted and paid for as a day’s work. After a good deal of trouble, two or three of the men acceded to the foreman’s proposals, others refused to engage themselves, excepting at the highest rate; while a third party objected only to working on Sunday. In any agreement to be entered into, it was held as an express condition, “That every man who embarked for the work at the Bell Rock, should remain for the space of four weeks, without returning ashore.” Those chiefly wanted at this time were masons from Aberdeen, who were accustomed to the use of the boring-iron and pick, in working granite. Being engaged only from week to week in the work-yard, they were desirous of knowing the reason for remaining a month at the rock; when they were informed that it was not unlikely some of them might suffer from sea sickness, and wearying of confinement on board of ship, might wish to return ashore, which would be attended with much inconveniency to the work, by too frequent a change of hands. They were further told, that, by continuing for one month afloat, they would, in the course of that time, become so sea-hardy as probably to feel no desire to return till the end of the working-season, which, at this advanced period, could not last for many weeks. This condition was considered of importance in the commencement of the work, and it was the more readily agreed to, as the writer assured them that he should himself remain with them during that period. As one condition, however, had been made to the Aberdeen masons, they felt no hesitation in proposing another on their own part, and they accordingly handed the following offer of service, addressed to the foreman, dated 12th August 1807, which, from the tenor of the document, we shall here insert.

[Sidenote: Letter from the Aberdeen Masons.]

“In consequence of our communing with one another concerning the Bell Rock, we hereby agree to stay with you from the above date, till August 1808, being twelve months certain, and to take our turn at whatever work may start up concerning the Bell Rock business,--only, it is to be understood, that the rest of the masons must take turn and turn about with us: the terms of our agreement to be 20s. per week, summer and winter, wet and dry, with free quarters ashore, and likewise our victuals when we are at the rock.--As for the Sunday’s work and premiums, we leave that to the honour of our employers. (Signed) William Bonyman, John Bruce, John Cruickshanks, Alexander Sherif, John Bonyman, Alexander Davidson, James Macdonald, Robert Ferres, John Mason, William Chalmers.”

Every thing being arranged for sailing to the rock on Saturday the 15th, the vessel might have proceeded on the Sunday; but understanding that this would not be so agreeable to the artificers it was deferred until Monday. Here we cannot help observing, that the men allotted for the operations at the rock seemed to enter upon the undertaking with a degree of consideration, which fully marked their opinion as to the hazardous nature of the undertaking on which they were about to enter. They went in a body to church on Sunday, and whether it was in the ordinary course, or designed for the occasion, the writer is not certain, but the service was, in many respects, suitable to their circumstances. Indeed, the Reverend Mr GLEG, the minister of the parish, was in the constant habit of enquiring after the success and safety of the works. Throughout this day the weather was remarkably serene, and the best hopes were entertained of a favourable tract of weather, which the inhabitants of Arbroath were disposed to consider as an omen of good fortune.

[Sidenote: Monday, 17th.]

[Sidenote: Twenty-four Artificers embark for the Rock.]

The tide happening to fall late in the evening of Monday the 17th, the party, counting twenty-four in number, embarked on board of the Smeaton about 10 o’clock P. M., and sailed from Arbroath with a gentle breeze at west. Our ship’s colours having been flying all day in compliment to the commencement of the work, the other vessels in the harbour also saluted, which made a very gay appearance. A number of the friends and acquaintances of those on board having been thus collected, the piers, though at a late hour, were perfectly crowded, and just as the Smeaton cleared the harbour, all on board united in giving three hearty cheers, which were returned by those on shore in such good earnest, that, in the still of the evening, the sound must have been heard in all parts of the town, re-echoing from the walls and lofty turrets of the venerable Abbey of Aberbrothwick. The writer felt much satisfaction at the manner of this parting scene; though he must own, that the present rejoicing was, on his part, mingled with occasional reflections upon the responsibility of his situation, which extended to the safety of all who should be engaged in this perilous work. With such sensations he retired to his cabin; but as the artificers were rather inclined to move about the deck than to remain in their confined births below, his repose was transient, and the vessel being small, every motion was necessarily heard. Some who were musically inclined occasionally sung; but he listened with peculiar pleasure to the sailor at the helm, who hummed over Dibdin’s characteristic air,

“They say there’s a Providence sits up aloft, To keep watch for the life of Poor Jack.”

_Erection of the Beacon-House._

The weather had been very gentle all night, and, about four in the morning of the 18th, the Smeaton anchored on the spot where it was intended to lay down an additional set of chain-moorings which she had on board. Agreeably to an arranged plan of operations, all hands were called at 5 o’clock, A. M., just as the highest part of the Bell Rock began to shew its sable head among the light breakers, which occasionally whitened with the foaming sea. The two boats belonging to the floating-light attended the Smeaton, to carry the artificers to the rock, as her boat could only accommodate about six or eight sitters. Every one was more eager than his neighbour to leap into the boats, and it required a good deal of management on the part of the coxswains, to get men unaccustomed to a boat, to take their places for rowing and at the same time trimming her properly. The landing-master and foreman went into one boat, while the writer took charge of another, and steered it to and from the rock. This became the more necessary in the early stages of the work, as places could not be spared for more than two, or at most three seamen to each boat, who were always stationed, one at the bow, to use the boat-hook in fending or pushing off, and the other at the aftermost oar, to give the proper time in rowing, while the middle oars were double banked, and rowed by the artificers.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 18th.]

[Sidenote: Commence work at 6 A. M.]

As the weather was extremely fine, with light airs of wind from the east, we landed without difficulty upon the central part of the rock at half-past 5, but the water had not yet sufficiently left it for commencing the work. This interval, however, did not pass unoccupied; the first and last of all the principal operations at the Bell Rock were accompanied by three hearty cheers from all hands, and, on occasions like the present, the steward of the ship attended, when each man was regaled with a glass of rum. As the water left the rock about 6, some began to bore the holes for the great bats or holdfasts, for fixing the beams of the Beacon-house, while the smith was fully attended in laying out the site of his forge, upon a somewhat sheltered spot of the rock, which also recommended itself from the vicinity of a pool of water for tempering his irons. These preliminary steps occupied about an hour, and as nothing further could be done during this tide towards fixing the forge, the workmen gratified their curiosity, by roaming about the rock, which they investigated with great eagerness till the tide overflowed it. Those who had been sick picked dulse (_Fucus palmatus_), which they ate with much seeming appetite; others were more intent upon collecting limpets for bait, to enjoy the amusement of fishing when they returned on board of the vessel. Indeed none came away empty handed, as every thing found upon the Bell Rock was considered valuable, being connected with some interesting association. Several coins, and numerous bits of shipwrecked iron were picked up, of almost every description; and, in particular, a marking-iron lettered JAMES,--a circumstance of which it was thought proper to give notice to the public, as it might lead to the knowledge of some unfortunate shipwreck, perhaps unheard of till this simple occurrence led to the discovery. When the rock began to be overflowed, the landing-master arranged the crews of the respective boats, appointing twelve persons to each. According to a rule, which the writer had laid down to himself, he was always the last person who left the rock. Another maxim was, to allow the landing-master’s boat to proceed about twice or three times her own length a-head of the other boats, that in case of accident he might be ready to assist; and when he had thus cleared the rock, he waited till the others got out of the respective creeks; after which they proceeded in company. Upon the present occasion, the boats reached the tender about half-past 8, after having been two hours upon the rock, and three hours absent from the ship.

In a short time, the Bell Rock was laid completely under water, and the weather being extremely fine, the sea was so smooth, that its place could not be pointed out from the appearance of the surface,--a circumstance which sufficiently demonstrates the dangerous nature of this rock, even during the day, and in the smoothest and calmest state of the sea. During the interval between the morning and the evening tides, the artificers were variously employed in fishing and reading, others were busy in drying and adjusting their wet clothes, and one or two amused their companions with the violin and German-flute.

[Sidenote: Method of fixing iron-bats into the Rock.]

About 7 in the evening the signal bell for landing on the rock was again rung, when every man was at his quarters. In this service it was thought more appropriate to use the bell than to _pipe_ to quarters, as the use of this instrument is less known to the mechanic than the sound of the bell. The landing, as in the morning, was at the eastern harbour. During this tide, the sea-weed was pretty well cleared from the site of the operations, and also from the tracks leading to the different landing-places; for walking upon the rugged surface of the Bell Rock, when covered with sea-weed, was found to be extremely difficult, and even dangerous. Every hand that could possibly be occupied, was now employed in assisting the smith to fit up the apparatus for his forge. The frame-work of iron, forming the hearth, was now got into its place; and the four legs which supported it were let into holes, bored from six to twelve inches into the rock, according to the inequalities of the site: and then firmly wedged, first with wood, and then with iron, a method followed in all the operations of batting at the Bell Rock, and found greatly preferable to running in melted lead. The block of timber for supporting the anvil was fixed in the same manner, on which the anvil was simply laid, without any other fixture than the small stud, fitted as usual into its seat, depending upon the gravity of the mass for preserving its place against the effects of the sea. In this state things were left on the rock at 9 P. M., when the boats returned to the tender, after other two hours work, in the same order as formerly, perhaps as much gratified with the success that attended the work of this day, as with any other in the whole course of the operations. Although it could not be said that the fatigues of this day had been great, yet all on board retired early to rest. The sea being calm, and no movement on deck, it was pretty generally remarked in the morning, that the bell awakened the greater number on board from their first sleep; and, though this observation was not altogether applicable to the writer himself, yet he was not a little pleased to find, that thirty people could all at once become so reconciled to a night’s quarters within a few hundred paces of the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.]

[Sidenote: Landing-master’s duty.]

It was a rule laid down and adhered to by the writer, throughout the whole of the Bell Rock works, that, as far as possible, the charge should be arranged into departments. It therefore fell to the officer termed the _Landing-master_, who was also master of the Floating-light, to take the responsibility of the safe and proper landing of the artificers and materials upon the rock. With him, the writer generally arranged the business of the following day; his crew watched the ebbing of the water, and the appearance of the rock, and from the state of the weather, he judged of the proper time for causing the signal bell to be rung, when the boats were to leave the ship for the rock. It was also a special injunction laid upon him to say, from the state of the weather, when it was necessary for the boats to leave the rock and return to the tender.

[Sidenote: Indications of the weather.]

Being extremely anxious at this time to get forward with fixing the smith’s forge, on which the progress of the work at present depended, the writer requested that he might be called at day-break to learn the landing-master’s opinion of the weather, from the appearance of the rising sun, a criterion by which experienced seamen can generally judge pretty accurately of the state of the weather for the following day. About 5 o’clock, on coming upon deck, the sun’s upper limb or disk had just begun to appear, as if rising from the ocean; and in less than a minute he was seen in the fullest splendour; but after a short interval he was enveloped in a soft cloudy sky, which was considered emblematical of fine weather. His rays had not yet sufficiently dispelled the clouds which hid the land from view, and the Bell Rock being still overflowed, the whole was one expanse of water. This scene in itself was highly gratifying; and when the morning bell was tolled, we were gratified with the happy forebodings of good weather, and the expectation of having both a morning and an evening tide’s work on the rock.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.]

The boats left the ship at a quarter before 7 this morning, and landed upon the rock at 7. The water had gone off the rock sooner than was expected, for, as yet, the seamen were but imperfectly acquainted with its periodic appearance, and the landing-master being rather late with his signal this morning, the artificers were enabled to proceed to work without a moment’s delay. The boat which the writer steered happened to be the last which approached the rock at this tide; and, in standing up in the stern, while at some distance, to see how the leading boat entered the creek, he was astonished to observe something in the form of a human figure, in a reclining posture, upon one of the ledges of the rock: he immediately steered the boat through a narrow entrance to the eastern harbour, with a thousand unpleasant sensations in his mind. He thought a vessel or boat must have been wrecked upon the rock during the night; and it seemed probable that the rock might be strewed with dead bodies, a spectacle which could not fail to deter the artificers from returning so freely to their work. Even one individual found in this situation, would naturally cast a damp upon their minds, and, at all events, make them much more timid in their future operations. In the midst of these reveries, the boat took the ground at an improper landing place; but, without waiting to push her off, he leapt upon the rock, and making his way hastily to the spot which had privately given him alarm, he had the satisfaction to ascertain, that he had only been deceived by the peculiar situation and aspect of the smith’s anvil and block, which very completely represented the appearance of a lifeless body upon the rock. The writer carefully suppressed his feelings, the simple mention of which might have had a bad effect upon the artificers, and his haste passed for an anxiety to examine the apparatus of the smith’s forge, left in an unfinished state at the evening tide.

[Sidenote: Dangerous situation in foggy weather.]

After an excellent tide’s work of three hours at the forge, and boring the bat-holes for fixing the Beacon-house, we again took to our boats, and left the rock at 10 o’clock, the one boat preceding and waiting for the other till it cleared the rock, as formerly. In the course of this morning’s work, two or three apparently distant peals of thunder were heard, and the atmosphere suddenly became thick and foggy. But as the Smeaton, our present tender, was moored at no great distance from the rock, the crew on board continued blowing with a horn, and occasionally fired a musket, so that the boats got to the ship without difficulty. The occurrence of thick weather, however, became a serious consideration, in looking forward to the necessary change of quarters to the Pharos, distant about one mile from the rock, instead of a few hundred yards, as in the case of the Smeaton.

[Sidenote: Artificers amuse themselves with fishing.]

The continuation of the thick and foggy weather was transient, being what seamen term an easterly _hoar_, arising from the heat of the weather, which disappeared soon after mid-day. The weather being clear in the evening, the boats landed again at half-past 6 o’clock, when the artificers were employed for two hours, as in the morning, and returned again to the ship about a quarter past 8. The remainder of the day-light was eagerly spent in catching fish, which were got, at this time, in great abundance, both alongside of the vessel and in the boats at a distance; and in the course of an hour about five dozen of codlings were caught, which not only afforded an agreeable relaxation, but afforded a plentiful dish of fish for the different messes on board.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.]

[Sidenote: Complete the fixing of the smith’s forge.]

The wind this morning inclined from the north-east, and the sky had a heavy and cloudy appearance, but the sea was smooth, though there was an undulating motion on the surface, which indicated easterly winds, and occasioned a slight surf upon the rock. But the boats found no difficulty in landing at the western creek at half-past 7, and, after a good tide’s work, left it again about a quarter from 11. In the evening the artificers landed at half-past 7, and continued till half-past 8, having completed the fixing of the smith’s forge, his vice, and a wooden board or bench, which were also batted to a ledge of the rock, to the great joy of all, under a salute of three hearty cheers. From an oversight on the part of the smith, who had neglected to bring his tinder-box and matches from the vessel, the work was prevented from being continued for at least an hour longer.

[Sidenote: Valuable services of the smith at the Bell Rock.]

[Sidenote: Much wanted at the Eddystone.]

It may here be proper to notice, that although a considerable quantity of jumpers or boring-irons, picks, and other quarry-tools, had been brought, in good order, for the use of the work; yet, from the extent of work in preparing the foundations, together with the hard and compact nature of the sandstone, of which the Bell Rock is composed, the tools soon became blunt, and the work must have often been completely at a stand, had it not been for the conveniency of having a smith and his forge so near at hand. The writer doubts not that his readers may be at a loss to account for the operation of the bellows and other apparatus upon a sunken rock, and it may therefore be necessary, in the accompanying description of the plates of this work, to give some explanation of this _arcanum_ of Vulcan, on which the work had so great a dependence. The smith’s shop, represented in Plate XI. was of course in _open space_: the large bellows were carried to and from the rock every tide, for the serviceable condition of which, together with the tinder-box, fuel and embers of the former fire, the smith was held responsible. Those who have been placed in situations to feel the inconveniency and want of this useful artizan, will be able to appreciate his value in a case like the present. Mr Smeaton often felt the want of a forge permanently upon the rock, and had the foundation of the Eddystone Light-house required more extensive preparations, this useful implement could hardly have been dispensed with; but the Eddystone rock was so small as hardly to have room for it, in addition to other no less necessary apparatus. Could the operations of the blacksmith, at the Bell Rock, have been continued, from the commencement of the operations, even for half an hour longer every tide than the pickmen or quarriers, it would have added much to the facilities and progress of the work. But a stage or platform, in that case, must have been erected, to which there were a number of intervening obstacles, that more than counter-balanced the temporary inconveniency felt from the want of this additional time. It often happened, to our annoyance and disappointment, in the early state of the work, when the smith was in the middle of a _favourite heat_, in making some useful article, or in sharpening the tools, after the flood-tide had obliged the pickmen to strike work, a sea would come rolling over the rocks, dash out the fire, and endanger his indispensable implement the bellows; or if the sea was smooth, while the smith often stood at work knee-deep in water, the tide rose by imperceptible degrees, first cooling the exterior of the fire-place, or hearth, and then quietly blackening and extinguishing the fire from below. The writer has frequently been amused at the perplexing anxiety of the blacksmith, when coaxing his fire, and endeavouring to avert the effects of the rising tide. In this state of things, the erection of the Beacon was looked forward to as a happy period, when the smith should be removed above the reach of the highest tides.

[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.]

[Sidenote: Seals desert the Bell Rock.]

The weather still continued to be very fine; though the winds were variable, they rather prevailed from the eastward, and were occasionally accompanied with a hazy atmosphere, inclining to fog. The boats landed to-day upon the rock at half-past 7 o’clock A. M., and left it at a quarter past 11, the artificers having had an excellent tide’s work of three hours and three-quarters. Every thing connected with the forge being now completed, the artificers found no want of sharp tools, and the work went forward with great alacrity and spirit. It was also alleged that the rock had a more habitable appearance, from the volumes of smoke which ascended from the smith’s shop; and the busy noise of his anvil; the operations of the masons; the movements of the boats, and shipping at a distance, all contributed to give life and activity to the scene. This noise and traffic had, however, the effect of almost completely banishing the herd of seals which had hitherto frequented the rock as a resting place, during the period of low water. Though these animals were thus prevented from reposing upon the higher parts of the rock, yet they ventured, for a time, to lie upon the more detached outlayers which dry partially: here they seemed to look with that sort of curiosity which is observable in these animals when following a boat. But after the smith established himself, it was rare to see more than one or two of these amphibious animals about the rock, which seemed to be peculiarly adapted to their habits; for, excepting two or three days at neap tides, a part of it always dries at low water, at least during the summer season; and as there was good fishing ground in the neighbourhood, without a human being to disturb or molest them, it had become a very favourite residence of the seal, if we may judge from their numbers, the writer having occasionally counted from fifty to sixty of these animals playing about the rock at a time. But when they came to be disturbed every tide, and their seclusion was broke in upon by the kindling of great fires, together, with the beating of hammers and picks during low water, after hovering about for a time, they changed their place, and seldom more than one or two were to be seen about the rock. The writer felt a desire to protect these animals, with a view to observe their habits, and in hopes of taming them, at least so far as he had observed was done at the Small’s Light-house, off the coast of Pembrokeshire, another favourite resort of seals, where, by gentle treatment, they have become so tame and familiar as to eat bread out of the hands of the light-keepers. But here, indeed, they constantly find a resting place, as some of the Small’s rocks are always above water.

[Sidenote: Progress of the work.]

[Sidenote: Hampered state of the artificers.]

We had now been six days out from Arbroath, and, in that time, had the good fortune to have seven successive tides’ work upon the rock, during which, the smith’s forge had been fixed, and twelve holes of 2 inches in diameter and 18 inches in depth, had been bored or drilled into the rock, in the process of excavating the bat or stanchion-holes for fixing the principal beams of the Beacon-house. Hitherto the artificers had remained on board of the Smeaton, which was made fast to one of the mooring buoys, at the distance only of about a quarter of a mile from the rock, and of course a very great conveniency to the work. Being so near, the seamen could never be mistaken as to the progress of the tide, or state of the sea upon the rock, nor could the boats be much at a loss to pull on board of the vessel during fog, or even in very rough weather; as she could be cast loose from her moorings at pleasure, and brought to the lee side of the rock. But the Smeaton being only about forty register tons, her accommodations were extremely limited. It may, therefore, be easily imagined, that an addition of twenty-four persons to her own crew, must have rendered the situation of those on board rather uncomfortable. This vessel served as a tender only in fine weather, with the assistance of the boats of the floating-light, for she could not stow boats sufficiently large for attending the rock with such a complement of artificers. The only place for the men’s hammocks on board being in the hold, they were unavoidably much crowded; and if the weather had required the hatches to be fastened down, so great a number of men could not possibly have been accommodated. To add to this evil, the _co-boose_ or cooking place being upon deck, it would not have been possible to have cooked for so large a company in the event of bad weather.

The stock of water was now getting short, and some necessaries being also wanted for the floating-light, the Smeaton was dispatched for Arbroath; and the writer with the artificers, at the same time, shifted their quarters from her to the floating-light.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 22d.]

[Sidenote: Inconveniencies of the Pharos as a tender.]

The operations still continued to be favoured with pleasant weather; to-day there were light airs of wind from south-east, and the morning bell was rung at 6. Although the rock barely made its appearance at this period of the tides till 8 o’clock, yet, having now a full mile to row from the floating-light to the rock, instead of about a quarter of a mile from the moorings of the Smeaton, it was necessary to be earlier astir, and to form different arrangements; breakfast was accordingly served up at 7 o’clock this morning. From the excessive motion of the floating-light, the writer had looked forward rather with anxiety to the removal of the workmen to this ship. Some among them, who had been congratulating themselves upon having become sea-hardy while on board of the Smeaton, had a complete relapse on returning to the floating-light. This was also the case with the writer. From the spacious and convenient birthage of the floating-light, the exchange to the artificers was, in this respect, much for the better. The boats were also commodious, measuring sixteen feet in length on the keel, so that, in fine weather, their complement of sitters was sixteen persons for each, with which, however, they were rather crowded, but she could not stow two boats of larger dimensions. When there was what is called a breeze of wind, and a swell in the sea, the proper number for each boat could not, with propriety, be rated at more than twelve persons.

The act of getting into or out of a boat, when alongside of the floating-light, was at all times attended with more or less difficulty; her rolling motion was so great, that the gunwale, though about five feet above the surface of the water, she dipped nearly into it, upon the one side, while her keel could not be far from the surface on the other. This was her state, even in moderate weather, in certain directions of the wind, especially for the period of about an hour, when she was _thwarting_ to the tide, or rode in what sailors call the _trough_ of the sea. The act of getting on board was then attended with great difficulty, even to seamen, and was particularly so to landmen, requiring all the attention which the landing-master could bestow, in getting the artificers safely transferred from the boats to the ship, and _vice versa_.

[Sidenote: Difficulty of getting on board and leaving the Pharos.]

When the tide-bell rung, the boats were hoisted out, and two active seamen were employed to keep them from receiving damage alongside. The floating-light being very buoyant, was so quick in her motions, that when those who were about to step from her gunwale into a boat, placed themselves upon a cleat or step on the ship’s side, with the man or rail ropes in their hands, they had often to wait for some time, till a favourable opportunity occurred for stepping into the boat. While in this situation, with the vessel rolling from side to side, watching the proper time for letting go the man-ropes, it required the greatest dexterity and presence of mind to leap into the boat. One who was rather awkward, would often wait a considerable period in this position: at one time his side of the ship would be so depressed, that he would touch the boat to which he belonged, while the next sea would elevate him so much, that he would see his comrades in the boat on the opposite side of the ship, his friends in the one boat calling to him to “Jump,” while those in the boat on the other side, as he came again and again into their view, would jocosely say, “Are you there yet? You seem to enjoy a swing.” In this situation it was common to see a person, upon each side of the ship, for a length of time, waiting to quit his hold. A stranger to this sort of motion was both alarmed for the safety, and delighted with the agility of persons leaping into the boat, under those perilous circumstances. No sooner had one quitted his station on the gunwale, than another occupied his place, until the whole were safely shipped.

[Sidenote: Difficulty of keeping boats alongside.]

It also formed a critical operation with the sailors to keep the boats at a convenient distance from the vessel, to guard against being too far off; as, in that case, the man, in the act of stepping off the ship’s side, might have been in danger of falling into the sea. If, on the other hand, the boat was allowed to come in contact with the vessel, she would have been in danger of being staved or damaged. This state of things was fortunately not what we had to commence with, as the weather happened to be, as before noticed, serene, and the Smeaton’s sides were comparatively low in the water. The excessive rolling of the Pharos did not therefore come upon the artificers all at once, otherwise some unpleasant accidents must have happened, for in these rolling operations, if a stranger had, in a moment of alarm, let go his hold, at an improper time, he must have been pitched with violence into the sea.

The party being seated in their respective boats, they were pulled to the Bell Rock in about twenty minutes, from the moorings of the Pharos, when the water was smooth and the wind moderate. This morning the boats reached the rock at 8 o’clock; the work commenced exactly at a quarter past 8, and at half-past 11, the water again began to overflow the parts on which the artificers were at work. Every tide now gave the writer more pleasant prospects of the progress of the work than another, especially since the erection of the smith’s forge.

[Sidenote: Artificers become expert rowers.]

[Sidenote: Rations of artificers.]

On leaving the rock to-day, a trial of seamanship was proposed amongst the rowers, for by this time the artificers had become tolerably expert in this exercise. By inadvertency, some of the oars provided had been made of fir instead of ash, and although a considerable stock had been laid in, the workmen, being at first awkward in the art, were constantly breaking their oars; indeed, it was no uncommon thing to see the broken blades of a pair of oars floating astern, in the course of a passage from the rock to the vessel. The men, upon the whole, had but little work to perform in the course of a day; for though they exerted themselves extremely hard while on the rock, yet, in the early state of the operations, this could not be continued for more than three or four hours at a time, and as their rations were large, consisting of one pound and a half of beef,--one pound of ship-biscuit,--eight ounces oatmeal,--two ounces barley,--two ounces butter,--three quarts of beer,--with vegetables and salt, they got into excellent spirits, when free of sea-sickness. The rowing of the boats against each other became a favourite amusement; which was rather a fortunate circumstance, as it must have been attended with much inconvenience, had it been found necessary to employ a sufficient number of sailors for this purpose. The writer, therefore, encouraged this spirit of emulation, and the speed of their respective boats became a favourite topic. Premiums for boat races were also instituted, which were contended for with great eagerness, and the respective crews kept their stations in the boats, with as much precision as they kept their beds on board of the ship. With these, and other pastimes, when the weather was favourable, the time passed away, among the inmates of the fore-castle and waist of the ship. The writer looks back with interest upon the hours of solitude which he spent in this lonely ship, with his small library.

[Sidenote: “Saturday night at Sea.”]

This being the first Saturday that the artificers were afloat, all hands were served with a glass of rum and water at night, to drink the sailors favourite toast of “Wives and Sweethearts.” It was customary, upon these occasions, for the seamen and artificers to collect in the galley, when the musical instruments were put in requisition; for, according to invariable practice, every man must play a tune, sing a song, or tell a story. In this manner Saturday night, in particular, passed away in a very happy manner, when much boisterous mirth and loud peals of laughter occasionally broke forth. It is true, that this could not proceed from a single glass, but every man sat down with a determination to be pleased. They had, besides, a pretty liberal allowance of good small beer, which the rations of the sick increased; and they contrived to make the glass go round, and seemed to feel no want whatever, while the ship kept from her excessive rolling motion.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 23d.]

The operations at the Bell Rock were still fortunate with regard to the weather. The morning of Sunday set in with light airs from the south-west, which, towards mid-day, came to what sailors term fresh breezes, but towards evening it fell calm, and the weather became foggy.

[Sidenote: Reasons for continuing the work on Sunday.]

To some, it may require an apology, or, at least, call for an explanation, why the writer took upon himself to step aside from the established rules of society, by carrying on the works of this undertaking during Sundays. Such practices are not uncommon in the dock-yards and arsenals, when it is conceived that the public service requires extraordinary exertions. Surely, if, under any circumstances, it is allowable to go about the ordinary labours of mankind on Sundays, that of the erection of a light-house upon the Bell Rock, seems to be one of the most pressing calls which could in any case occur, and carries along with it the imperious language of necessity. When we take into consideration, that, in its effects, this work was to operate in a direct manner for the safety of many valuable lives and much property, the beautiful and simple parables of the Holy Scriptures, inculcating works of necessity and mercy, must present themselves to every mind unbiassed by the trammels of form or the influence of a distorted imagination. In this perilous work, to give up every seventh day, would just have been to protract the time a seventh part. Now, as it was generally supposed, after taking all advantages into view, that the work would probably require seven years for its execution, such an arrangement must have extended the operation to at least eight years, and have exposed it to additional risk and danger, in all its stages. The writer, therefore, felt little scruple in continuing the Bell Rock works in all favourable states of the weather.

[Sidenote: Preparations for reading prayers on deck.]

Having, on the previous evening, arranged matters with the landing-master as to the business of the day, the signal was rung for all hands at half past 7 this morning. In the early state of the spring-tides, the artificers went to the rock before breakfast, but as the tides fell later in the day, it became necessary to take this meal before leaving the ship. At 8 o’clock all hands were assembled on the quarter-deck for prayers, a solemnity which was gone through in as orderly a manner as circumstances would admit. Round the quarter-deck, when the weather permitted, the flags of the ship were hung up as an awning or screen, forming the quarter-deck into a distinct compartment with colours; the pendant was also hoisted at the main-mast, and a large ensign flag was displayed over the stern; and, lastly, the ship’s companion, or top of the staircase, was covered with the _flag proper_ of the Light-house Service, on which the Bible was laid. A particular toll of the bell called all hands to the quarter-deck, when the writer read a chapter of the Bible, and, the whole ship’s company being uncovered, he also read the following impressive prayer, composed by the Reverend Dr Brunton, one of the ministers of Edinburgh.

_A Prayer for the use of those Employed at the Erection of the Bell Rock Light-House._

“Almighty and ever blessed God! Thou art not confined to temples made with man’s hands: The temple most acceptable to thee is the heart of thy worshipper: Thou hast promised, that wherever thy servants are assembled, thou wilt be with them, to bless them and to do them good. Unto us, O our Father! may the promise be fulfilled. Even here, where no temple invites, and where no ordinances cheer us, be with us, we beseech thee, while we meet in thy presence; and strengthen us to discharge the duties of thy holy day.

“The Sabbath was appointed to celebrate thy creating power: And here, where the magnificence of thy works surrounds us,--where we see thy wonders in the deep,--where we behold every morning thy Sun arise from the world of waters, to spread, as at the first, light and beauty over Nature,--shall not our souls pour forth abundantly the tribute of adoration to thee, whose word alone spake the Universe into being!

“The Sabbath commemorates that Providence which watcheth continually over the works of thy hand: And shall not we, whom dangers so often threaten, and whom difficulties so often alarm; shall not we, conscious of our frailty, and removed far from human aid; shall not we raise the voice of thanksgiving to God, who alone protecteth us, and who, even in the midst of danger, causeth us to dwell in safety!

“The Sabbath was appointed to commemorate the triumphs of redeeming love: And shall not we hail it with delight, whose earliest infancy was hallowed in the name of Jesus; on whose opening minds the doctrines of his faith were poured; who, even in this remote abode, are permitted to call upon thy holy name in prayer,--to read the Oracles of everlasting truth,--to speak one to another of the God who hath loved and blessed us!

“Our souls do magnify the Lord, our spirits rejoice in God our Saviour; for he that is mighty hath done great things for his people, and his mercy is on them that fear him. We bless thee for the doctrines which our Master taught,--for the example which he set before us,--for the atonement by which he relieves us from the load of guilt,--for the hope which he hath restored of grace and glory. We bless thee for the institutions which thou hast appointed for enlightening thy people in religious knowledge, and for training them to lives of usefulness and purity. With shame we remember how often we have abused our Christian privileges,--how often we have neglected the exercises of private devotion,--how often we have failed to study thy holy word,--how often, while yet it was in our power to go up to the house of God, we have forsaken the assembling of ourselves together,--how often we have worshipped thee with our lips, while our hearts were far from thee. Visit us not, O God! in anger, for our transgression; but do thou enable us to lament and forsake it. Let not the circumstances in which we now are placed, be permitted to wean our affections from thy worship. But, while the service of humanity calls us to labour even on this day of rest, save us,--O thou, who wilt have mercy and not sacrifice!--save us from the temptation which might lead us to forget our God, and the duties which we owe to him. Rather, while we are deprived of thine ordinances for a season, do thou give us grace, through prayer and holy meditation, to compensate the loss; that we may, with delight, look forward to the time when the courts of thy sanctuary shall be opened to us again; when we, and those whom we love and value, shall again take sweet counsel together, and walk in company to the house of God. Give to us, even now, O God of our salvation! those pious and holy dispositions which will prepare us for the nobler worship, offered to thee by the Angels of Heaven, and by the Spirits of just men made perfect.

“We pray to our common Father in behalf of all mankind. May the day-spring from on high arise on those who now sit in darkness; and, where the light of the Gospel already shines, may its influences be felt reviving and purifying.

“We pray especially for our native land;--for her peace,--her prosperity,--her liberties,--and her honour. We pray for our king, and for all who are in authority over us. We pray particularly for those by whose command we are engaged in this arduous work. Bless them in their persons, in their families, and in the discharge of their official duty. Prosper, we beseech thee, the work itself in which we are engaged. May it remain long after our eyes have ceased to behold it. Long after our ashes are cold in the dust, may he that was ready to perish have cause to bless the memory of those by whom it was reared.

“We pray for the people of our land. Purify them unto thyself a peculiar people, zealous of good works: Bless them in their commerce, and in their harvests: Bless them in the pursuits of honest industry: Bless them in the relations of domestic life: Bless them, above all, with spiritual blessings in Christ Jesus.

“May the sons and daughters of affliction be enabled to profit by the bitter lesson with which thou hast seen it meet to visit them. Restore the sick to usefulness, or prepare the dying for judgment and eternity. May the living lay it to heart that they must die, and act as it becometh those who know not how soon they shall be called hence.

“Our friends and families, from whom we are separated for a time, we commit to thy protection, O God of love! Unspeakably precious is the thought, that thou carest for them,--that thine eye is upon them continually,--and thine everlasting arms around them. Grant that, in thy good time, we may meet them in peace;--Grant that we may be united hereafter in that land where separation and pain are unknown for ever.

“Our enemies we beseech thee to forgive and bless. Bless us, even us also, O our Father! Give us thy grace in every season of trial;--give us thy protection in every hour of danger. Prepare us for the dispensations of thy Providence;--prepare us for the discharge of duty;--prepare us for the inheritance of the just.

“And may grace, and mercy, and peace, from the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, be with us for ever.”

[Sidenote: Some of the artificers decline working on Sunday.]

Upon concluding this service, which was attended with becoming reverence and attention, all on board retired to their respective births to breakfast, and, at half-past 9, the bell again rung for the artificers to take their stations in their respective boats. Some demur having been evinced on board, about the propriety of working on Sunday, which had hitherto been touched upon as delicately as possible, all hands being called aft, the writer, from the quarter deck, stated generally the nature of the service, expressing his hopes that every man would feel himself called upon to consider the erection of a light-house on the Bell Rock, in every point of view, as a work of necessity and mercy. He knew that scruples had existed with some, and these had, indeed, been fairly and candidly urged before leaving the shore; but it was expected, that, after having seen the critical nature of the rock, and the necessity of the measure, every man would now be satisfied of the propriety of embracing all opportunities of landing on the rock, when the state of the weather would permit; and, in short, of exerting every effort in this as a common cause, at least until the Beacon should be erected, being an undertaking, on which the lives and safety of all connected with these works had a constant dependence. The writer, farther, took them to witness, that it did not proceed from want of respect for the appointments and established forms of religion that he had himself adopted the resolution of attending the Bell Rock works on the Sunday; but, as he hoped, from a conviction that it was his bounden duty, on the strictest principles of morality. At the same time it was intimated, that if any were of a different opinion, they should be perfectly at liberty to hold their sentiments, without the imputation of contumacy or disobedience; the only difference would be in regard to the pay.

Upon stating this much, he stepped into his boat, requesting all who were so disposed to follow him. The sailors, from their habits, found no scruple on this subject, and all of the artificers, though a little tardy, also embarked, excepting four of the masons, who, from the beginning, mentioned that they would decline working on Sundays. The boats reached the rock at a quarter past 10 o’clock A. M., and after a very active tide’s work of two hours and a half, the water again overflowed the rock. It may here be noticed, that throughout the whole of the operations, it was observable that the men wrought, if possible, with more keenness upon the Sundays than at other times, from an impression that they were engaged in a work of imperious necessity, which required every possible exertion. On returning to the floating-light, after finishing the tide’s work, the boats were received by the part of the ship’s crew left on board, with the usual attention of handing ropes to the boats, and helping the artificers on board; but the four masons who had absented themselves from the work did not appear upon deck.

[Sidenote: Additional pay on Sunday.]

As the season advanced, the period of low water occurred later, and the writer did not consider it advisable, in the present state of the works, to land on the rock under night, there being nothing to mark its place prior to the erection of the Beacon. Under more favourable circumstances, he would willingly have landed this evening, to entitle the artificers who accompanied him in the morning, to additional wages, as every tide’s work on Sunday counted a day, according to the rate of pay and premiums which he had laid down.

[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.]

[Sidenote: Neap-tides. Artificers working knee-deep in water.]

The weather, upon the whole, was very fine to-day, and the winds, though variable, were gentle; but from the mildness of the season, it got rather foggy towards the evening. The boats left the floating-light at a quarter past 9 o’clock this morning, and the work began at three-quarters past 9; but as the neap tides were approaching, the working-time at the rock became gradually shorter, and it was now with difficulty that two and a half hours work could be got. But, so keenly had the workmen entered into the spirit of the Beacon-house operations, that they continued to bore the holes in the rock till some of them were knee deep in water. In this work the sailors were also engaged, taking their turns at the boring and other works.

[Sidenote: Operations entirely confined to the Beacon.]

[Sidenote: Description of the operation of boring the rock.]

The operations at this time, were entirely directed to the erection of the beacon, in which every man felt an equal interest, as at this critical period the slightest casualty to any of the boats at the rock might have been fatal to himself individually, while it was perhaps peculiar to the writer more immediately to feel for the safety of the whole. Each log or upright beam of the beacon, was to be fixed to the rock by two strong and massive bats or stanchions of iron, of a construction which will be better understood by inspecting the diagrams on Plate VIII., and the accompanying description. These bats, for the fixture of the principal and diagonal beams and bracing-chains, required fifty-four holes, each measuring two inches in diameter, and eighteen inches in depth. The operation of boring or drilling these deep holes in the rock, was conducted with great dexterity in the following manner: Three men were attached to each jumper or chisel; one placed himself in a sitting posture, to guide the instrument and give it a turn at each blow of the hammer; he also sponged or cleaned out the hole, and supplied it occasionally with a little water; while the other two, with hammers of sixteen pounds weight, struck the jumper alternately, generally bringing the hammer with a swing round the shoulder, after the manner of blacksmiths’ work. The three men relieved each other in the operation of guiding the jumper and striking with the hammers. The forms of the jumper, hammer, and sponging-rod, are represented in Plate X., Figs. 7, 8, and 9. After many observations, as to the time occupied in boring these holes, the writer found that, when the tools were of a very good temper, they could be sunk at the rate of one inch per minute, including stoppages. The holes for the stanchions, when completed, measured seven inches in length, two inches in breadth, and eighteen inches in depth. After a jumper had been sunk to the necessary depth at each end of these holes, the most tedious part of the operation was to cut out the piece of rock which remained between the two jumper-holes, so as to clear it fully for the reception of the great iron stanchions, which were of a dove-tail form.

[Sidenote: Progress of the work.]

There had already been so considerable a progress made in boring and excavating these holes, that the writer’s hopes of getting the beacon erected this year, began to be more and more confirmed, although it was now advancing towards what was considered the latter end of the proper working season at the Bell Rock. The foreman joiner, Mr Francis Watt, was accordingly appointed to attend at the rock to-day, when the necessary levels were taken for the step or seat of each particular beam of the beacon, that they might be cut to their respective lengths, to suit the inequalities of the rock; several of the stanchions were also tried into their places, and other necessary observations made, to prevent mistakes on the application of the apparatus, and to facilitate the operations, when the beams came to be set up, which would require to be done in the course of a single tide.

[Sidenote: Tuesday 25th.]

We had now experienced an almost unvaried tract of light airs of easterly wind, with clear weather in the fore-part of the day, and fog in the evenings. To-day, however, it sensibly changed; when the wind came to the south-west, and blew a fresh breeze. At 9 A. M. the bell rung, and the boats were hoisted out, and though the artificers were now pretty well accustomed to tripping up and down the sides of the floating-light, yet it required more seamanship this morning than usual. It therefore afforded some merriment to those who had got fairly seated in their respective boats, to see the difficulties which attended their companions, from the hesitating manner in which they quitted hold of the man-ropes in leaving the ship. As it blew pretty fresh, the passage to the rock was tedious, and the boats did not reach it till half-past 10. By working upon the higher parts of the site of the beacon 1¼ hours work was got, though not without difficulty, and the men left off at a quarter past 12 noon, completely drenched in water.

[Sidenote: Difficult situation of the Smith.]

The masons and pickmen were employed in boring the bat-holes, and in dressing and preparing the rock between the holes, at the places on which the beams of the beacon-house were to rest. It being now the period of neap-tides, the water only partially left the rock, and some of the men, who were boring on the lower ledges of the site of the beacon, stood knee-deep in water. The situation of the smith to-day was particularly disagreeable, but his services were at all times indispensable. As the tide did not leave the site of the forge, he stood in the water, and as there was some roughness on the surface, it was with considerable difficulty that, with the assistance of the sailors, he was enabled to preserve alive his fire; and, while his feet were immersed in water, his face was not only scorched, but continually exposed to volumes of smoke, accompanied with sparks from the fire, which were occasionally set up, owing to the strength and direction of the wind.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.]

[Sidenote: Wind-gauge, and nomenclature for the winds much wanted.]

The wind had shifted this morning to N. NW. with rain, and was blowing what sailors call a fresh breeze,--for as yet a correct and efficient wind-gauge remains a desideratum with the mechanical philosopher; and we have unfortunately no proper or satisfactory nomenclature for expressing the force of the wind. To speak, perhaps, somewhat intelligibly to the general reader, the wind was such, that a fishing-boat could just carry full sail. The weather did not look very favourable in the morning; but as it was of importance, especially in the outset of the business, to keep up the spirit of enterprise for landing on all practicable occasions, the writer, after consulting with the landing-master, ordered the bell to be rung for embarking, and at half-past 11 the boats reached the rock, and left it again at a quarter past 12, without, however, being able to do much work, as the smith could not be set to work from the smallness of the ebb and the strong breach of sea, which lashed with great force among the bars of the forge.

[Sidenote: Difficult passage from the Rock to the Floating-Light.]

Just as we were about to leave the rock, the wind shifted to the SW., and, from a fresh gale, it became what seamen term a hard gale, or such as would have required the fisherman to take in two or three reefs in his sail. The boats being rather in a crowded state for this sort of weather, they were pulled with great difficulty towards the floating-light. Though the boats were handsomely built, and presented little obstruction to the wind, as those who were not pulling sat low, yet having the ebb-tide to contend with, the passage was so very tedious, that it required two hours of hard work before we reached the vessel.

It is a curious fact, before noticed, that the respective tides of ebb and flood are apparent upon the shore about an hour and a half sooner than at the distance of three or four miles in the offing. But what seems chiefly interesting here is, that the tides around this small sunken rock should follow exactly the same laws as on the extensive shores of the mainland. When the boats left the Bell Rock to-day, it was overflowed by the flood-tide, but the floating-light did not swing round to the flood-tide for more than an hour afterwards. Under this disadvantage the boats had to struggle with the ebb-tide and a hard gale of wind, so that it was with the greatest difficulty they reached the floating-light. Had this gale happened in spring-tides when the current was strong, we must have been driven to sea in a very helpless condition.

[Sidenote: Life-buoy streamed.]

The boat which the writer steered, was considerably behind the other, one of the masons having unluckily broken his oar. Our prospect of getting on board, of course, became doubtful, and our situation was rather perilous, as the boat shipped so much sea that it occupied two of the artificers to bale and clear her of water. When the oar gave way, we were about half a mile from the ship, but being fortunately to windward, we got into the wake of the floating-light, at about 250 fathoms astern, just as the Landing-master’s boat reached the vessel. He immediately streamed or floated a life-buoy astern, with a line which was always in readiness, and by means of this useful implement, the boat was towed alongside of the floating-light, where, from her rolling motion, it required no small management to get safely on board, as the men were much worn out with their exertions in pulling from the rock. On the present occasion, the crews of both boats were completely drenched with spray, and those who sat upon the bottom of the boats to bale them, were sometimes pretty deep in the water, before it could be cleared out. After getting on board, all hands were allowed an extra dram, and having shifted, and got a warm and comfortable dinner, the affair, it is believed, was little more thought of.

[Sidenote: Tender ordered exclusively for the service of the Rock.]

This was the first difficult or tedious passage which had been experienced in landing at the Bell Rock; it was also the first time that the writer had really felt the inconveniency of not having a vessel entirely set apart for the purposes of a tender. The floating-light, from the construction of her moorings, and the service for which she was specially employed, could not be cast loose or brought to the lea side of the rock in any case of emergency. Neither could she be risked to ride at moorings near enough to the rock, to place her in a more eligible situation for the purposes of the work. When these circumstances were brought under the notice of the Commissioners, it was ordered that a vessel should be provided, exclusively as a tender for the operations of the rock; and this was accordingly done before the commencement of the works of another season.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.]

[Sidenote: Depth of water in the site of the building in Neap-tides.]

The tides were now in that state which sailors term the dead of the neap, and it was not expected that any part of the rock would be seen above water to-day; at any rate, it was obvious, from the experience of yesterday, that no work could be done upon it, and therefore the artificers were not required to land. The wind was at west, with light breezes, and fine clear weather; and as it was an object with the writer to know the actual state of the Bell Rock at neap-tides, he got one of the boats manned, and, being accompanied by the landing-master, went to it at a quarter past 12. The parts of the rock that appeared above water being very trifling, were covered by every wave, so that no landing was made. Upon trying the depth of water with a boat-hook, particularly on the sites of the Light-house and Beacon, on the former, at low water, the depth was found to be three feet, and on the central parts of the latter it was ascertained to be two feet eight inches. Having made these remarks, the boat returned to the ship at 2 P. M., and the weather being good, the artificers were found amusing themselves with fishing. The Smeaton came from Arbroath this afternoon, and made fast to her moorings, having brought letters and newspapers, with parcels of clean linen, &c. for the workmen; who were also made happy by the arrival of three of their comrades from the work-yard, ashore. From these men they not only received all the news of the work-yard, but seemed themselves to enjoy great pleasure in communicating whatever they considered to be interesting with regard to the rock. Some also got letters from their friends at a distance, the postage of which, for the men afloat, was always free, so that they corresponded the more readily.

[Sidenote: Friday, 28th.]

To-day the weather was not quite so agreeable as it had been yesterday, the wind being south-east, and blowing what sailors term a fresh breeze, by which we understand a force of wind that would be sufficient to cause the sails of a fishing-boat to be reefed. At ½ past 1 P. M., the writer again went to the rock, accompanied by the landing-master, when a depth of about four feet of water was found upon the site of the Light-house, which may be considered a medium depth, as nearly as this could be ascertained in its present unworked state, but there was some surf upon the rock.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 29th.]

[Sidenote: Some of the Artificers wish to go ashore.]

In the course of the night, the wind had shifted from SE. to SW., and it blew very hard, being technically termed a _stiff gale_, or rather too much wind for a fishing-boat. It was therefore considered unsafe for the Smeaton to continue at her moorings, and the signal was made for her to sail for Arbroath; she therefore got under way, but although there was a packet of letters for the shore, and the artificers had their memorandums in readiness, yet the floating-light rolled so unmercifully, that it would have been at the imminent hazard of staving or dashing a boat to pieces, had it been attempted to put one out. This was a disappointment in one way, though it answered a good purpose in another, as two of the three men, who had come last from the work-yard, earnestly entreated that they might be allowed to return, as they could no longer endure the rolling of the floating-light, a request in which they were anxiously accompanied by one of the masons, who had all along been much afflicted with sea-sickness. These applications were necessarily refused; they then applied to have an interview with the writer, when they urged the misery they were likely to suffer on board, without their being able to do any work at the rock. To the two strangers the difficulty and danger of putting out a boat was stated, as rendering it impossible for them to leave the ship; while the third person was reminded of his engagement to remain afloat for one month. In this manner these two men were put off, with the prospect of better weather in the course of a day or two. With regard to the other, he had suffered so severely, that the writer would have been happy to have had him ashore, and he was informed that if his comrades would ask leave for him, it would be granted. This being readily complied with, he was left at full liberty to return to the work-yard. But, for the present, the Smeaton was obliged to pass at a considerable distance, without being able to communicate with the floating-light.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.]

[Sidenote: Land upon the Rock after five days absence.]

The wind was N.NE. this morning, in light airs, and the weather was clear. This being Sunday, the usual ceremony was observed at 12 noon, when the writer read prayers on the quarter-deck. The ensuing set of spring-tides were now coming to hand, and, at 3 P. M., all the artificers embarked for the rock, excepting the four men who had declined it last Sunday. Their places, however, were willingly taken by the three men who came last from the shore, who were happy to get relief from the disagreeable motion of the floating-light upon any terms. The boats reached the rock at half-past 3; but being rather early in the tide, the men rested on their oars till 4 o’clock, and then landed on the different spots as they dried, where they remained till the tide ebbed sufficiently to allow them to commence work. This was the first time the artificers had landed on the rock for five days, owing to the state of the weather and tides, and it was not a little flattering, on this occasion, to see with what eagerness the workmen leaped upon it. Those who were not troubled with sea-sickness, felt a degree of languor on board from which their working hours formed rather a relaxation, while the sickly (by far the greater number) felt immediate relief upon setting their foot upon _terra firma_, even in its most circumscribed boundary. While the water was going off the rock, the workmen were all busily employed in picking dulse, the _Fucus palmatus_ of botanists, and indeed any other of the marine plants which happened to lie within their reach. Those who were the greatest sufferers from sea-sickness always ate the most greedily upon these occasions. Such incidental circumstances tended greatly to keep up the desire for landing at the rock, and seemed, in some measure, to compensate for the labour of rowing to and from it.

[Sidenote: Method of fixing the stanchions in the rock.]

The operation of boring the bat-holes being in great forwardness, the men were now chiefly employed in chiselling or cutting out the piece of rock which remained between each pair of jumper-holes, forming a ridge of about two inches in thickness. When this was cleared away, the bat-hole was of the proper form, and, as before noticed, it measured about seven inches in length, two inches in breadth, and eighteen inches in depth, an excavation which, from its dimensions, must readily appear to have been attended with much difficulty. The holes, though bored with the same size of chisels, as nearly as might be, were not precisely of the same size; but this was not essential, as the stanchion, when wedged in its place, completely filled the aperture. This operation of chiselling out the middle piece, and widening the hole in the form of a _dove-tail_, was a much more intricate and tedious operation than boring perpendicularly with the jumper. At that process three men worked with great celerity, whereas two only could be employed in cutting out the divisions and widening the holes.

The site of the building having already been carefully traced out with the pick-axe, the artificers, this day, commenced the excavation of the rock, for the foundation or first course of the light-house. Four men only were employed at this work, while twelve continued at the site of the Beacon-house, at which every possible opportunity was embraced, till this essential part of the operations should be completed. After having been two hours upon the rock this tide, the water began to rise upon the smith’s forge and the site of the Beacon-house, and at ¼ past 6 o’clock P. M. the artificers left the rock.

[Sidenote: Monday, 31st.]

[Sidenote: Longest day’s work hitherto had on the Bell Rock.]

The winds varied to-day from N.NE. to S. Though it blew pretty fresh, it was not accompanied with any swell in the sea, and the weather upon the whole was very pleasant. At half-past 3 in the morning, the writer was called by the landing-master, to consult about the state of the weather, and the practicability of landing upon the rock. After some hesitation, the result was to proceed: the signal bell for getting the boats ready was rung at 4 A. M., when all hands took to their respective boats, and at half-past 4 the work commenced at the rock: it continued till half-past 7, allowing an excellent tide’s work of three hours, when the artificers again returned to the floating-light, and remained till the evening tide. At 4 P. M. they landed, but did not begin to work till a quarter from 5 o’clock, when the water had sufficiently left the rock. At a quarter past 7 it was overflowed, when the boats returned to the ship, and the writer was not a little elated, as the morning and evening tide had afforded no less than five and a half hours work, being the greatest day’s work hitherto obtained on the Bell Rock.

[Sidenote: September, Tuesday, 1st.]

The weather was extremely pleasant throughout these twenty-four hours, though the wind veered and shifted about from N.W. to W.SW. At 4 o’clock this morning the bell made rather an unwelcome call, but all hands readily turned out. As before mentioned, when the work commenced at these early hours, a dram and a biscuit were served out to the artificers; and the writer, upon these occasions, found a cup of coffee very salutary. Having landed at a quarter from 5, the work was continued for three and a half hours, four men, as before noticed, being employed on the site of the Light-house, and twelve at the Beacon-house. The water overflowed the rock at a quarter past 7, when the boats returned to the floating-light.

[Sidenote: Smeaton brings off the experimental cargo of stone.]

The Smeaton had arrived from Arbroath in the course of the last night, and made fast to her moorings at the eastern buoy, which was nearest to the rock, as will be seen from Plate V. Agreeably to appointment, she had brought off six blocks of granite, for the purpose of making an experiment regarding the landing of the stones on the rock. She also had in tow the praam, or decked boat, brought from Leith astern of the Pharos, of which mention has already been made. This boat, in smooth water, could carry about six or seven tons upon deck.

[Sidenote: Various suggestions about landing the stones.]

The writer had looked forward to the trial of landing weighty materials upon the rock, as a matter which was to determine an important point in the operations of the Bell Rock light-house, and which could hardly be resolved by any other means than actual trial. This part of the operation had always been a matter of the greatest uncertainty with those conversant in such matters, and it became essential to determine the point at this period, by actual trial, before proceeding to the preparation of the craft and apparatus requisite for the works of next season, which it would not have been safe or prudent to rest upon doubtful hypothesis. In speculating upon this point, some had suggested that each particular stone should be floated to the rock, with a cork-buoy attached to it, while others would convert the float into an air-tank for this purpose; a third proposed to sail over the rock at high water, in a vessel of a flat construction, and drop the stones one after another, while under way, or at anchor on the rock. Others took up a still more extraordinary view of the case, and proposed to build so much of the Light-house ashore, in a kind of coffer-dam or vessel, as would raise the building to the level of the highest tide, and having previously prepared the rock for its reception, they would scuttle the vessel, and settle this ponderous mass, weighing perhaps 1000 tons, at once upon the rock. But it were endless to follow the various conceptions, even of men of experience, upon subjects of this kind. Though some of these propositions were ingeniously conceived, yet they could not be carried into effect in such a situation as the Bell Rock. Taking into view the uncertain state of the weather, the brittle nature of stone, when worked to a delicate edge and formed into angular points,--and, above all, considering the disadvantages that would attend the loss, even of a single stone, by the unavoidable delay it would occasion to the work, which might even in some instances hazard a great part of the building,--the writer judged it safest to keep the vessels that were to bring the stones from the workyard at moorings, laid down at a convenient distance from the rock, so as to enable them to clear it, in case of drifting. He also determined, as the safest method, that their cargoes should be unloaded at these moorings, laid on decked praam-boats, and towed to the rock by the landing-master’s crew, at low water, when the artificers were at work, and ready to lay and secure the stones in their places on the building. To put this to the test of actual experiment, the trial praam-boat had been built, and the six rough blocks of stone were brought to the rock.

[Sidenote: Experiment of landing six blocks of Granite.]

The middle part of this day was occupied by the writer on board of the Smeaton, at her moorings, where he carefully attended to the process of bringing the praam alongside, fixing her head and stern-ropes, and stationing the seamen at their respective posts, for the purpose of landing this small, but, in his view, important cargo. The mode by which the stones were taken out of the Smeaton’s hold, and lowered on the praam’s deck, will be understood from Plate XI. This was done by means of a gaff-boom, which traversed upon the Smeaton’s mast, with the necessary tackles for guying it. An essential part of this tackle was a _travelling-crance_, or ring of iron, by which the stone might be lifted either at the extremities or at the central parts of the boom, as best suited its position in the ship’s hold, or its intended place on the praam’s deck. The length of this gaff-boom was thirteen feet, being sufficient for lowering the stone upon the praam. Another part of this apparatus, for lifting the stone, was a _winch_, fixed before the Smeaton’s mast, consisting of a wheel two feet in diameter, worked by a pinion. The stone being raised from the vessel’s hold, was laid on her deck, in order to shift the crance tackle to the extremity of the gaff-boom. The chief charge of the stone was then taken by the landing-master, till it was laid on the praam’s deck, landed on the rock, and ultimately delivered over to the foreman builder. In the act of working this apparatus, one man was placed at each of the guy-tackles, who also assisted at the purchase-tackle for raising the stone; and one of the ablest and most active of the crew was appointed to hold on the end of the tackle-fall or purchase, which often required all his strength, and his utmost agility in letting go, for the purpose of lowering the stone at the instant when the word “Lower” was heard. Much depended upon the promptitude with which this part of the operation was performed, in a rolling sea, as our nautical readers will readily understand. For this purpose, the man who held the end of the tackle placed himself before the mast in a sitting, but more frequently in a lying posture, with his feet stretched under the winch, and abutting against the mast, as, by this means, he was enabled to exert his greatest strength. The signal being given by the men in the hold, that the Lewis-bat was fixed into the stone, and the tackle hooked, every man took his post. If the stone was very weighty, the two men who were to receive it on board of the praam, assisted in working the purchase, till the stone was got out of the hold, to be laid upon deck, when the word “Lower” was given, in an audible and stern tone of voice. After the _traveller_ was shifted upon the gaff boom, the praam-men returned to their post, and the stone was again lifted to a sufficient height, to clear the vessel’s gunwale, when great attention became necessary in working the guy-tackles, till the stone was brought over the praam’s deck, and the watchword “Lower” given, if possible, with greater force than before. The tackles were then unhooked, and in this manner the operation proceeded until the stones were got on board of the praam-boat.

This description may seem particular; but the reason will appear obvious, when it is recollected, that the landing of the materials has been considered one of the most nice and difficult parts of seamanship, and on which the best informed seamen were unable to say how it might answer, without great risk to the crew, and damage to the stones, and even occasionally losing them between the ship and the praam-boat. Both vessels being afloat, and riding in the open sea, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile from the Bell Rock, their motion was instantly communicated to the landing-gaff, and so to the stone in the tackle. The six blocks of granite having been placed upon the praam’s deck, she was towed to a floating-buoy, where she was made fast, until the proper time of tide, for taking her into one of the creeks of the rock.

[Sidenote: Stones first landed on the Rock.]

At a quarter past 4 P. M., the boats, with the artificers, left the floating-light, and the work of the evening tide commenced at a quarter before 5. The sailors having previously decorated the ships and the praam-boat with flags, she was towed to the rock by two boats. The writer having resolved personally to attend the whole progress of this experiment went on board of the praam-boat, when she entered the eastern creek, where the foreman builder, at the head of the artificers, gave three hearty cheers. As the praam had not water to float her so far up the creek as the site of the building, her cargo was delivered upon Smith’s Ledge, on the north side of this creek, as marked on Plate VI. In the present unprepared state of the machinery and implements upon the rock, the stones, in the present case, were raised with pinches, and pushed ashore upon planks. The whole of this experiment succeeded to the writer’s utmost expectation, who was thus led to conclude, that the materials might be landed with much more expedition and certainty than he had previously supposed. All hands spontaneously collected to witness the landing of the first stone, which had no sooner touched the rock, than other three cheers were given, and, on this occasion, a glass of rum was served out by the steward. Having continued two hours upon the rock this evening, the artificers left it at 7, and returned to the floating-light, while the landing-master’s crew towed the praam-boat off to the Smeaton, that she might be taken to Arbroath, having completed all that was intended with her, this season.

[Sidenote: 1807, September.]

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 2d.]

[Sidenote: First mode of attaching the vessels to their moorings.]

The floating-light’s bell rung this morning at half-past 4 o’clock, as a signal for the boats to be got ready, and the landing took place at half-past 5. In passing the Smeaton, at her moorings near the rock, her boat followed with eight additional artificers who had come from Arbroath with her at last trip, but there being no room for them in the floating-light’s boats, they had continued on board. The weather did not look very promising in the morning, the wind blowing pretty fresh from W.SW.; and had it not been that the writer calculated upon having a vessel so much at command, in all probability he would not have ventured to land. The Smeaton rode at what sailors call a _salvagee_, with a cross-head made fast to the floating-buoy. This kind of attachment was found to be more convenient, than the mode of passing the hawser through the ring of the buoy, when the vessel was to be made fast. She had then only to be steered very close to the buoy, when the salvagee was laid hold of with a boat-hook, and the _bite_ of the hawser thrown over the cross-head, instead of being obliged to put out the boat, in order to pass the rope through the ring of the buoy. But the salvagee, by this method, was always left at the buoy, and was, of course, more liable to chaff and wear than a hawser passed through the ring, which could be wattled with canvas, and shifted at pleasure. The salvagee and cross method is, however, much practised; but the experience of this morning showed it to be very unsuitable for vessels riding in an exposed situation, for any length of time.

[Sidenote: Smeaton breaks adrift from her moorings.]

Soon after the artificers landed, they commenced work; but the wind coming to blow hard, the Smeaton’s boat and crew, who had brought their complement of eight men to the rock, went off to examine her riding ropes, and see that they were in proper order. The boat had no sooner reached the vessel than she went adrift, carrying the boat along with her, and both had even got to a considerable distance before this situation of things was observed, every one being so intent upon his own particular duty, that the boat had not been seen leaving the rock. As it blew hard, the crew with much difficulty set the mainsail upon the Smeaton, with a view to work her up to the buoy, and again lay hold of the moorings. By the time that she was got round to make a tack towards the rock, she had drifted at least three miles to leeward, with the praam-boat astern; and having both the wind and a tide against her, the writer perceived, with no little anxiety, that she could not possibly return to the rock till long after its being overflowed; for, owing to the anomaly of the tides formerly noticed, the Bell Rock is completely under water before the ebb abates to the offing.

[Sidenote: Perilous situation of those left on the Rock.]

In this perilous predicament, indeed, he found himself placed between hope and despair,--but certainly the latter was by much the most predominant feeling of his mind,--situate upon a sunken rock in the middle of the ocean, which, in the progress of the flood-tide, was to be laid under water to the depth of at least twelve feet in a stormy sea. There were this morning thirty-two persons in all upon the rock, with only two boats, whose complement, even in good weather, did not exceed twenty-four sitters; but, to row to the floating-light with so much wind, and in so heavy a sea, a complement of eight men for each boat, was as much as could, with propriety, be attempted, so that, in this way, about one-half of our number was unprovided for. Under these circumstances, had the writer ventured to dispatch one of the boats in expectation of either working the Smeaton sooner up towards the rock, or in hopes of getting her boat brought to our assistance, this must have given an immediate alarm to the artificers, each of whom would have insisted upon taking to his own boat, and leaving the eight artificers belonging to the Smeaton to their chance. Of course, a scuffle might have ensued, and it is hard to say, in the ardour of men contending for life, where it might have ended. It has even been hinted to the writer, that a party of the _pickmen_ were determined to keep exclusively to their own boat against all hazards.

The unfortunate circumstance of the Smeaton and her boat having drifted, was, for a considerable time, only known to the writer, and to the landing-master, who removed to the farther point of the rock, where he kept his eye steadily upon the progress of the vessel. While the artificers were at work, chiefly in sitting or kneeling postures, excavating the rock, or boring with the jumpers, and while their numerous hammers, and the sound of the smith’s anvil continued, the situation of things did not appear so awful. In this state of suspense, with almost certain destruction at hand, the water began to rise upon those who were at work on the lower parts of the sites of the Beacon and Light-house. From the run of sea upon the rock, the forge fire was also sooner extinguished this morning than usual, and the volumes of smoke having ceased, objects in every direction became visible from all parts of the rock. After having had about three hours work, the men began, pretty generally, to make towards their respective boats for their jackets and stockings, when, to their astonishment, instead of three, they found only two boats, the third being adrift with the Smeaton. Not a word was uttered by any one, but all appeared to be silently calculating their numbers, and looking to each other with evident marks of perplexity depicted in their countenances. The landing-master, conceiving that blame might be attached to him for allowing the boat to leave the rock, still kept at a distance. At this critical moment, the author was standing upon an elevated part of Smith’s Ledge, where he endeavoured to mark the progress of the Smeaton, not a little surprised that her crew did not cut the praam adrift, which greatly retarded her way, and amazed that some effort was not making to bring at least the boat, and attempt our relief. The workmen looked steadfastly upon the writer, and turned occasionally towards the vessel, still far to leeward. All this passed in the most perfect silence, and the melancholy solemnity of the group made an impression never to be effaced from his mind.

[Sidenote: Pilot boat accidentally comes to our relief.]

The writer had all along been considering of various schemes,--providing the men could be kept under command,--which might be put in practice for the general safety, in hopes that the Smeaton might be able to pick up the boats to leeward, when they were obliged to leave the rock. He was, accordingly, about to address the artificers on the perilous nature of their circumstances, and to propose, That all hands should unstrip their upper clothing, when the higher parts of the rock were laid under water; that the seamen should remove every unnecessary weight and encumbrance from the boats; that a specified number of men should go into each boat, and that the remainder should hang by the gunwales, while the boats were to be rowed gently towards the Smeaton, as the course to the Pharos or floating-light lay rather to windward of the rock. But when he attempted to speak, his mouth was so parched, that his tongue refused utterance, and he now learned by experience that the saliva is as necessary as the tongue itself for speech. He then turned to one of the pools on the rock and lapped a little water, which produced immediate relief. But what was his happiness, when, on rising from this unpleasant beverage, some one called out “A boat, a boat!” and, on looking around, at no great distance, a large boat was seen through the haze making towards the rock. This at once enlivened and rejoiced every heart. The timeous visitor proved to be James Spink, the Bell Rock pilot, who had come express from Arbroath with letters. Spink had, for some time, seen the Smeaton, and had even supposed, from the state of the weather, that all hands were on board of her, till he approached more nearly, and observed people upon the rock; but not supposing that the assistance of his boat was necessary to carry the artificers off the rock, he anchored on the lee-side and began to fish, waiting, as usual, till the letters were sent for, as the pilot-boat was too large and unwieldy for approaching the rock, when there was any roughness or run of the sea at the entrance of the landing creeks.

[Sidenote: The boats have a rough passage from the rock.]

Upon this fortunate change of circumstances, sixteen of the artificers were sent, at two trips, in one of the boats, with instructions for Spink to proceed with them to the floating-light. This being accomplished, the remaining sixteen followed in the two boats belonging to the service of the rock. Every one felt the most perfect happiness at leaving the Bell Rock this morning, though a very hard and even dangerous passage to the floating-light still awaited us, as the wind, by this time, had encreased to a pretty hard gale, accompanied with a considerable swell of sea. The boats left the rock about 9, but did not reach the vessel till 12 o’clock noon, after a most disagreeable and fatiguing passage of three hours. Every one was as completely drenched in water as if he had been dragged astern of the boats. The writer in particular, being at the helm, found, on getting on board, that his face and ears were completely coated with a thin film of salt from the sea spray, which broke constantly over the bows of the boat. After much baling of water and severe work at the oars, the three boats reached the floating-light, where some new difficulties occurred in getting on board in safety, owing partly to the exhausted state of the men, and partly to the violent rolling of the vessel.

[Sidenote: Smeaton bears away for Arbroath.]

As the tide flowed, it was expected that the Smeaton would have got to windward, but, seeing that all was safe, after tacking for several hours, and making little progress, she bore away for Arbroath, with the praam boat. As there was now too much wind for the pilot-boat to return to Arbroath, she was made fast astern of the floating-light, and the crew remained on board till next day, when the weather moderated. There can be very little doubt, that the appearance of James Spink with his boat, on this critical occasion, was the means of preventing the loss of lives at the rock this morning. When these circumstances, some years afterwards, came to the knowledge of the Board, a small pension was ordered to our faithful pilot, then in his seventieth year; and he still continues to wear the uniform clothes and badge of the Light-house service.

[Sidenote: Indispensable utility of the Beacon-house.]

The experience of this day’s hard passage to the floating-light strongly impressed the writer with the inconveniency and danger arising from the want of a proper tender, which could be cast loose at pleasure, and brought to the lee-side of the rock, and could, at all times, be moored nearer than it would have been safe or proper to have risked a vessel of the description of the floating-light. Another circumstance, no less deeply interesting to the safety of those on the rock, was the erection of the beacon-house, as a place of refuge in cases like the present. Here the writer could not help congratulating himself not only upon the near prospect of completing this work, but also on the perseverance with which he had maintained the indispensable necessity of the erection of the beacon. He was aware of the well grounded fears for the safety of all concerned, in the event of its being washed away by the sea; but, without such an erection on the Bell Rock, it is impossible to describe the continual hazard which must have attended the undertaking, or to determine the period when works so peculiarly situate, and especially so low in the water, might have been brought to a conclusion.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 3d.]

[Sidenote: Eighteen of the artificers decline embarking for the rock.]

[Sidenote: The boats proceed with eight.]

The bell rung this morning at 5 o’clock, but the writer must acknowledge, from the circumstances of yesterday, that its sound was extremely unwelcome. This appears also to have been the feelings of the artificers, for when they came to be mustered, out of twenty-six, only eight, besides the foreman and seamen, appeared upon deck, to accompany the writer to the rock. Such are the baneful effects of any thing like misfortune or accident connected with a work of this description. The use of argument to persuade the men to embark, in cases of this kind, would have been out of place, as it is not only discomfort, or even the risk of the loss of a limb, but life itself, that becomes the question. The boats, notwithstanding the thinness of our ranks, left the vessel at half-past 5. The rough weather of yesterday having proved but a summer’s gale, the wind came to-day in gentle breezes, yet the atmosphere being cloudy, it had not a very favourable appearance. The boats reached the rock at 6 A. M., and the eight artificers who landed, were employed in clearing out the bat-holes for the beacon-house, and had a very prosperous tide of four hours work, being the longest yet experienced by half an hour.

The boats left the rock again at 10 o’clock, and the weather having cleared up as we drew near the vessel, the eighteen artificers who had remained on board were observed upon deck; but as the boats approached, they sought their way below, being quite ashamed of their conduct. This was the only instance of refusal to go to the rock which occurred during the whole progress of the work, excepting that of the four men who declined working upon Sunday, a case which the writer did not conceive to be at all analogous to the present. It may here be mentioned, much to the credit of these four men, that they stood foremost in embarking for the rock this morning. Indeed, it seemed quite evident, that the backwardness of the artificers to-day arose from certain doubting expressions about the state of the weather, made through the inadvertency of some of the nautical people on board, in allusion to the state of the weather of yesterday.

A second landing was made in the evening tide, at a quarter past 6, with twenty of the artificers, six having been left on board for want of sitting-room in the boats; but as the work was not carried on with torch-light, till after the erection of the beacon-house, the boats left the rock again at a quarter past 7, the men having been employed chiefly at the bat-holes of the beacon-house.

[Sidenote: Friday, 4th.]

All hands, twenty-six in number, landed this morning, having been assisted by the Smeaton’s boat, as she had again returned from Arbroath to her moorings at the rock. After three hours’ work, the boats returned to the Pharos at a quarter past 10, leaving eight hands on board the Smeaton, as formerly, which preserved a convenient complement of sitters in the other two boats.

[Sidenote: Captain Pool’s account of the drifting of the Smeaton.]

From the late accident of the Smeaton’s drifting, precautionary measures were taken to impress upon Captain Pool, and his mate Mr Macurich, that their ship was not once to be put in competition with the safety of the people on the rock. Orders were also more strictly enforced upon the landing-master, that on no occasion whatever should the boats attending the rock be permitted to leave it, without carrying along with them the complement of men which they respectively brought to the rock. Upon examining the master of the Smeaton as to the circumstances of his vessel breaking adrift, it appeared that the salvagee had been chaffed, and that it had given way by the excessive motion of the vessel. Being also examined as to his intentions with regard to the people left on the rock on the 2d instant, he stated, that, when tacking the ship, he had seen the Pilot-boat a considerable time before it was likely that she could be seen at the rock; and that he was just about to cut the praam adrift, when he got sight of the boat. After setting sail on the Smeaton, his intentions were to try a tack or two, to see if she gained to windward, but if, on trial, she appeared to lose way, his intentions were to lash the helm to leeward, and leaving the boy on board of the vessel, he was to man the boat and make towards our relief. Captain Pool, in concluding his account of this matter, added, that “both ship and praam should have gone to the d----l, rather than that the people upon the rock should have been left to perish.” But he stated, that he was in much confusion for a time;--indeed, until he got sight of the pilot boat, that he was almost in a state of distraction, he and his ship’s company being in a continual wrangle about what was best to be done in so critical a situation. This accident put an end to the mode of riding at the Bell Rock floating buoys by a salvagee and cross-head, the hawser being in future passed through the ring of the buoy, and the end of it taken on board of the vessel; which was found to be much more safe, though not quite so expeditious as the other.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 5th.]

The wind having shifted to N.NW., the weather had a favourable appearance this morning. But on landing at the rock at 7 A. M., there was a considerable swell from the eastward, so that the boats had some difficulty in approaching the eastern creek. The artificers, however, had a most excellent tide’s work, having continued four hours at work, or till 11 o’clock. The boring and preparations for the Beacon-house being nearly completed, only twelve of the artificers were employed at this work, while fourteen were excavating and preparing the site of the Light-house.

[Sidenote: Ascertain the comparative level of the site of the building.]

This being the third day after new moon, it was estimated the lowest ebb of the present spring-tides. The writer therefore caused a part of the site of the building to be reduced to what he considered a medium level of the whole. This he compared with low water-mark, as noted by the landing-master, at the moment when the tide ceased to ebb and began to flow. An assistant with a rod having been stationed at low water-mark previously determined, another was placed at the spot ascertained to be the medium level of the site of the building; a spirit-level was then set at a convenient position between these upright rods, when the writer found that the medium height of the site of the building, in the present rough and irregular state of its surface, was about three feet three inches above low water-mark of spring tides. By further observation, it was also found, that the highest part of the foundation of the building, in its present unprepared state, was six feet above low water-mark. This highest part consisted of a large rounded mass, which declined gradually on all sides, excepting on the north-east, where it was more abrupt. The writer had originally some thought of taking advantage of this part of the rock, by connecting it, after Mr Smeaton’s plan, with the lower courses of the building. But after working for some time, with this object in view, it was found to contain several large fissures, which rendered it more advisable to clear away the whole, and reduce the site of the building to a uniform level.

[Sidenote: Full complement of Floating Buoys moored.]

Finding it impossible, with any degree of safety, to carry to the floating-light, in the two boats belonging to this ship, more than eighteen artificers, and four seamen, together with the landing-master, the foreman and the writer, eight of the present complement of men were lodged on board of the Smeaton, and when she went to Arbroath for water and fuel, they necessarily accompanied her. Before sailing, she laid down a fourth mushroom-anchor, and mooring-chain, with a floating buoy, for the use of the praam-boat. It was not at all likely that there would be much use for so many sets of moorings for the operations of this season; but it was desirable to have the probable number laid down that might ultimately be required for the works, in order that the fitness of their respective situations might be ascertained, before they came to be wanted for the purposes of the building. This last buoy was laid down in four fathoms water, with twelve fathoms of chain, at the distance of about ninety fathoms, in a N.E. direction from the rock. The other three buoys were respectively moored at greater distances from the rock, in depths varying from seven to eleven fathoms, the mushroom anchors lying on a hard rocky bottom.

[Sidenote: Floating-Light rides out a heavy gale of wind.]

As before noticed, the work could not be carried on by torch-light with any degree of safety, till the Beacon was erected, and the tide fell rather late for landing this evening. Although the weather would have admitted of this, yet the swell of the sea, observable in the morning, still continued to increase. It was so far fortunate that a landing was not attempted, for at 8 o’clock the wind shifted to E. SE. and at 10 it had become a hard gale, when fifty fathoms of the floating-light’s hempen cable were veered out. The gale still increasing, the ship rolled and laboured excessively, and at midnight eighty fathoms of cable were veered out; while the sea continued to strike the vessel with a degree of force which had not before been experienced.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 6th.]

During the last night there was little rest on board of the Pharos, and day-light, though anxiously wished for, brought no relief, as the gale continued with unabated violence. The sea struck so hard upon the vessel’s bows, that it rose in great quantities, or in “green seas,” as the sailors termed it, which were carried by the wind as far aft as the quarter-deck, and not unfrequently over the stern of the ship altogether. It fell occasionally so heavily on the skylight of the writer’s cabin, though so far aft as to be within five feet of the helm, that the glass was broken to pieces before the dead-light could be got into its place, so that the water poured down in great quantities. In shutting out the water, the admission of light was prevented, and in the morning all continued in the most comfortless state of darkness. About 10 o’clock A. M., the wind shifted to NE., and blew, if possible, harder than before, and it was accompanied by a much heavier swell of sea; when it was judged advisable to give the ship more cable. In the course of the gale, the part of the cable in the hause-hole had been so often shifted, that nearly the whole length of one of her hempen cables, of 120 fathoms, had been veered out, besides the chain-moorings. The cable for its preservation, was also carefully served or wattled with pieces of canvass round the windlass, and with leather well greased in the hause-hole. In this state things remained during the whole day. Every sea which struck the vessel,--and the seas followed each other in close succession,--causing her to shake, and all on board occasionally to tremble. At each of these strokes of the sea, the rolling and pitching of the vessel ceased for a time, and her motion was felt as if she had either broke adrift before the wind, or were in the act of sinking; but when another sea came, she ranged up against it with great force, and this became the regular intimation of our being still riding at anchor.

[Sidenote: State of the vessel during the gale.]

About 11 o’clock, the writer, with some difficulty, got out of bed, but in attempting to dress, he was thrown twice upon the floor, at the opposite side of the cabin. In an undressed state, he made shift to get about half way up the companion-stairs, with an intention to observe the state of the sea and of the ship upon deck, but he no sooner looked over the companion, than a heavy sea struck the vessel, which fell on the quarter-deck, and rushed down stairs into the officers’ cabin, in so considerable a quantity, that it was found necessary to lift one of the scuttles in the floor, to let the water into the limbers of the ship, as it dashed from side to side in such a manner, as to run into the lower tier of beds. Having been foiled in this attempt, and being completely wetted, he again, got below and went to bed. In this state of the weather the seamen had to move about the necessary or indispensable duties of the ship, with the most cautious use both of hands and feet, while it required all the art of the landsman to keep within the precincts of his bed. The writer even found himself so much tossed about, that it became necessary, in some measure, to shut himself in bed, in order to avoid being thrown into the floor. Indeed, such was the motion of the ship, that it seemed wholly impracticable to remain in any other than a lying posture. On deck the most stormy aspect presented itself; while below all was wet and comfortless.

About 2 o’clock P. M., a great alarm was given throughout the ship, from the effects of a very heavy sea which struck her, and almost filled the waist, pouring down into the births below, through every chink and crevice of the hatches and sky-lights. From the motion of the vessel being thus suddenly deadened or checked, and from the flowing in of the water above, it is believed there was not an individual on board who did not think, at the moment, that the vessel had foundered, and was in the act of sinking. The writer could withstand this no longer, and as soon as she again began to range to the sea, he determined to make another effort to get upon deck. In the first instance, however, he groped his way in darkness from his own cabin through the births of the officers, where all was quietness. He next entered the galley and other compartments occupied by the artificers: here also all was shut up in darkness, the fire having been drowned out in the early part of the gale: several of the artificers were employed in prayer, repeating psalms, and other devotional exercises in a full tone of voice: others protesting, that if they should fortunately get once more on shore, no one should ever see them afloat again. With the assistance of the landing-master, the writer made his way holding on step by step, among the numerous impediments which lay in the way. Such was the creaking noise of the bulk-heads or partitions, the dashing of the water, and the whistling noise of the winds, that it was hardly possible to break in upon such a confusion of sounds. In one or two instances, anxious and repeated inquiries were made by the artificers, as to the state of things upon deck, to which the Captain made the usual answer, that it could not blow long in this way, and that we must soon have better weather. The next birth in succession, moving forward in the ship, was that allotted for the seamen. Here the scene was considerably different. Having reached the middle of this darksome birth, without its inmates being aware of any intrusion, the writer had the consolation of remarking, that although they talked of bad weather, and the cross accidents of the sea, yet the conversation was carried on in that sort of tone and manner which bespoke an ease and composure of mind, highly creditable to them, and pleasing to him. The writer immediately accosted the seamen about the state of the ship. To these inquiries they replied, that the vessel being light, and having but little hold of the water, no top rigging, with excellent ground-tackle, and every thing being fresh and new, they felt perfect confidence in their situation.

It being impossible to open any of the hatches in the fore part of the ship, in communicating with the deck, the watch was changed by passing through the several births to the companion-stair leading to the quarter-deck. The writer, therefore, made the best of his way aft, and on a second attempt to look out, he succeeded, and saw indeed an astonishing sight. The seas, or waves, appeared to be ten or fifteen feet in height of unbroken water, and every approaching billow seemed as if it would overwhelm our vessel, but she continued to rise upon the waves, and to fall between the seas in a very wonderful manner. It seemed to be only those seas which caught her in the act of rising, which struck her with so much violence, and threw such quantities of water aft. On deck there was only one solitary individual looking out, to give the alarm, in the event of the ship breaking from her moorings. The seaman on watch continued only two hours; he who kept watch at this time, was a tall slender man of a black complexion; he had no great coat nor over-all of any kind, but was simply dressed in his ordinary jacket and trowsers: his hat was tied under his chin with a napkin, and he stood aft the foremast, to which he had lashed himself with a gasket or small rope round his waist, to prevent his falling upon deck, or being washed overboard. When the writer looked up, he appeared to smile, which afforded a farther symptom of the confidence of the crew in their ship. This person on the watch was as completely wetted as if he had been drawn through the sea, which was given as a reason for his not putting on a great coat, that he might wet as few of his clothes as possible, and have a dry shift when he went below. Upon deck, every thing that was moveable was out of sight, having either been stowed below, previous to the gale, or been washed overboard. Some trifling parts of the quarter boards were damaged by the breach of the sea; and one of the boats upon deck was about one-third full of water, the oyle-hole or drain having been accidentally stopped up,--and part of her gunwale had received considerable injury. These observations were hastily made, and not without occasionally shutting the companion, or covering up the stair-case, to avoid being wetted by the successive seas which broke over the bows, and fell upon different parts of the deck, according to the impetus with which the waves struck the vessel. By this time it was about 3 o’clock in the afternoon, and the gale, which had now continued with unabated force for 27 hours, had not the least appearance of going off.

[Sidenote: Consultation about the probable event of her breaking adrift.]

In the dismal prospect of undergoing another night like the last, and being in imminent hazard of parting from our cable, the writer thought it necessary to advise with the master and officers of the ship as to the probable event of the vessel’s drifting from her moorings. They severally gave it as their opinion, that we had now every chance of riding out the gale, which, in all probability, could not continue with the same fury many hours longer; and that even if she should part from her anchor, the storm-sails had been laid to hand, and could be bent in a very short time. They further stated, that from the direction of the wind being NE., she would sail up the Firth of Forth to Leith Roads. But if this should appear doubtful, after passing the Island and Light of May, it might be advisable at once to steer for Tyningham Sands, on the western side of Dunbar, and there run the vessel ashore. If this should happen at the time of high-water, or during the ebbing of the tide, they were of opinion, from the flatness and strength of the floating-light, that no danger would attend her taking the ground, even with a very heavy sea. The writer seeing the confidence which these gentlemen possessed with regard to the situation of things, and their knowledge and ability, should the ship break adrift, found himself as much relieved with this conversation, as he had previously been with the seeming indifference of the forecastle-men, and the smile of the watch upon deck, though literally lashed to the foremast. From this time he felt himself almost perfectly at ease; at any rate he was entirely resigned to the ultimate result.

[Sidenote: The gale takes off.]

About 6 o’clock in the evening, the ship’s company was heard moving upon deck, which, on the present occasion, was rather the cause of alarm. The writer accordingly rung his bell to know what was the matter, when he was informed by the steward, that the weather looked considerably better, and that the men upon deck were endeavouring to ship the smoke-funnel of the galley, that the people might get some meat. This was a more favourable account than had been anticipated. During the last twenty-one hours he himself had not only had nothing to eat, but he had almost never passed a thought on the subject. Upon the mention of a change of weather, he sent the steward to learn how the artificers felt, and on his return he stated that they now seemed to be all very happy, since the cook had begun to light the galley-fire, and make preparations for the suet-pudding of Sunday, which was the only dish to be attempted for the mess, from the ease with which it could both be cooked and served up.

The principal change felt upon the ship, as the wind abated, was her increased rolling motion, but the pitching was much diminished, and now hardly any sea came farther aft than the foremast; but she rolled so extremely hard, as frequently to dip and take in water over the gunwales and rails in the waist, though, as before noticed, she was in light ballast trim. By 9 o’clock, all hands had been refreshed by the exertions of the cook and steward, and were happy in the prospect of the worst of the gale being over. The usual complement of men was also now set on watch, and more quietness was experienced throughout the ship. Although the previous night had been a very restless one, it had not the effect of inducing repose in the writer’s birth on the succeeding night, for having been so much tossed about in bed, during the last thirty hours, he found no easy spot to turn to, and his body was all sore to the touch, which ill accorded with the unyielding materials with which his bed-place was surrounded.

[Sidenote: Monday, 7th.]

[Sidenote: Appearance of the sea upon the Bell Rock.]

This morning about 8 o’clock, the writer was agreeably surprised to see the scuttle of his cabin sky-light removed, and the bright rays of the sun admitted. Although the ship continued to roll excessively, and the sea was still running very high, yet the ordinary business on board seemed to be going forward on deck. It was impossible to steady a telescope, so as to look minutely at the progress of the waves, and trace their breach upon the Bell Rock, but the height to which the cross-running waves rose in sprays, when they met each other, was truly grand, and the continued roar and noise of the sea was very perceptible to the ear. To estimate the height of the sprays at forty or fifty feet, would surely be within the mark. Those of the workmen who were not much afflicted with sea-sickness, came upon deck, and the wetness below being dried up, the cabins were again brought into a habitable state. Every one seemed to meet as if after a long absence, congratulating his neighbour upon the return of good weather. Little could be said as to the comfort of the vessel, but after riding out such a gale, no one felt the least doubt or hesitation as to the safety and good condition of her moorings. The master and mate were extremely anxious, however, to heave in the hempen cable, and see the state of the clinch or iron ring of the chain-cable. But the vessel rolled at such a rate, that the seamen could not possibly keep their feet at the windlass, nor work the hand-spokes, though it had been several times attempted since the gale took off.

[Sidenote: Floating-Light breaks adrift.]

About 12 noon, however, the vessel’s motion was observed to be considerably less, and the sailors were enabled to walk upon deck with some degree of freedom. But, to the astonishment of every one, it was soon discovered that the floating-light was adrift! The windlass was instantly manned, and the men soon gave out that there was no strain upon the cable. The mizzen sail, which was bent for the occasional purpose of making the vessel ride more easily to the tide, was immediately set, and the other sails were also hoisted in a short time, when, in no small consternation, we bore away, about one mile to the south-westward of the former station, and there let go the best bower anchor and cable in twenty fathoms water, to ride until the swell of the sea should fall, when it might be practicable to grapple for the moorings, and find a better anchorage for the ship.

[Sidenote: Cable supposed to have been cut by a piece of wreck.]

As soon as the deck could be cleared, the cable-end was hove up, which had parted at the distance of about fifty fathoms from the chain-moorings. On examining the cable, it was found to be considerably chafed, but where the separation took place, it appeared to be worn through, or cut shortly off. How to account for this would be difficult, as the ground, though rough and gravelly, did not, after much sounding, appear to contain any irregular parts. It was therefore conjectured, that the cable must have hooked some piece of wreck, as it did not appear, from the state of the wind and tide, that the vessel could have _fouled_ her anchor, when she veered round with the wind, which had shifted, in the course of the night, from NE. to N.NW. Be this as it may, it was a circumstance quite out of the power of man to prevent, as, until the ship drifted, it was found impossible to heave up the cable. But what ought to have been the feeling of thankfulness to that Providence which regulates and appoints the lot of man, when it is considered, that if this accident had happened during the storm, or in the night after the wind had shifted, the floating-light must inevitably have gone ashore upon the Bell Rock. In short, it is hardly possible to conceive any case more awfully distressing than our situation would have been, or one more disastrous to the important undertaking in which we were engaged.

In the present untoward state of things, the writer had chiefly to regret the necessity of making a permanent change in the position of the moorings of the floating-light, after her station had been publicly advertised, and within a week of the time of exhibiting the light. It had also become more evident that this vessel could not be continued as a tender or store-ship for the work. The object of consideration, therefore, was to place her in a situation where she would be most useful to shipping. It was evident that she must now be stationed at about double her former distance from the rock, or, instead of one mile, that she must be moored upwards of two miles from it, on ground formerly ascertained to have been good, but considered too distant from the operations.

[Sidenote: Difficulty of manning the Floating-light.]

In the evening the Smeaton came off from Arbroath, with provisions and necessaries for the work. There being little wind, and a heavy swell in the sea, it was not safe that the vessels should come in contact with each other. Mr Macurich, the mate, who came within hail, in the Smeaton’s boat, informed us, that two seamen had come off to make up the complement of the crew of the floating-light, and that they would be brought on board the first opportunity. From the manner in which this address was made, and the enquiry as to how we rode out the gale, it was evident that the crew of the Smeaton were not aware that the floating-light had shifted her place; nor, indeed, was this at all obvious, unless by a particular observation made by the mariner’s compass, in reference to the position of the rock.

The peculiarity of this service rendered it difficult to procure good seamen to embark in it, and the original crew dropped off one after another as the winter season began to advance; for as yet our naval heroes had not shewn the possibility of remaining for months together, even off an enemy’s coast. It was therefore found to be an extremely difficult matter to get the crew of the floating-light recruited from time to time; and, under the perplexity of our present situation, it was some alleviation to be told that there were men voluntarily offering their services.

In the course of this day the wind had veered from N.NW. to NE., but the weather was mild, and the sea had fallen considerably, so that the boat came alongside with the two seamen, and a supply of necessaries. The Smeaton was then dispatched to Arbroath for another set of moorings for the floating-light, in case of our not finding those from which she had drifted. Letters were also dispatched to the Light-house Board, intimating the particulars of the floating-light’s new ground, that additional notice might be given to shipping.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 9th.]

[Sidenote: Floating-light anchored in her new station.]

The weather continued to be extremely agreeable, though the wind kept shifting about. Having got every thing in readiness for moving to the new station, which had again been carefully sounded, the floating-light was got under way,--which the author had fondly hoped never to have seen, till after her purpose as a temporary light had been supplied by a permanent building upon the Bell Rock. At 9 o’clock A. M. the best bower anchor was let go upon the new ground, in twenty fathoms water, on clean sand mixed with fine silt or mud, appearing to be the deposited matters borne along by the currents from the river Tay; the Bell Rock bearing SE. ½ S. distant about 2½ miles.

[Sidenote: Monday, 14th.]

[Sidenote: It is found impracticable to land to-day.]

The Smeaton returned to Arbroath, after landing her dispatches; but the wind and the swell of the sea having again increased, she was obliged to remain in port till the 14th. As the floating-light still rode at single anchor, it was often an anxious wish to have her once more properly fixed with chain moorings; but, as yet, no opportunity had occurred for recovering the old chain, and it took some time to prepare a new one. The Smeaton having returned from Arbroath this morning, the writer went on board of her, carrying with him all the artificers. At 6 an attempt was made to land, but the sea ran so heavily, and the breakers rushed with such fury in every direction, that after rowing all around the rock, the boats were obliged to return without success. It deserves remark, however, that this was the first attempt to land this season, in which it had been found impracticable, after actually embarking in the boats.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 15th.]

[Sidenote: State of matters at the rock, after a lapse of ten days.]

This morning at 5 A. M., the bell rung as a signal for landing upon the rock, a sound which, after a lapse of ten days, it is believed was welcomed by every one on board. There being a heavy breach of sea at the eastern creek, we landed, though not without difficulty, on the western side, every one seeming more eager than another to get upon the rock, and never did hungry men sit down to a hearty meal with more appetite than the artificers began to pick the dulse from the rocks. This marine plant had the effect of reviving the sickly, and seemed to be no less relished by those who were more hardy.

While the water was ebbing, and the men were roaming in quest of their favourite morsel, the writer was examining the effects of the storm upon the forge, and loose apparatus left upon the rock. The six large blocks of granite which had been landed, by way of experiment, on the 1st instant, were now removed from their places, and, by the force of the sea, thrown over a rising ledge into a hole at the distance of twelve or fifteen paces from the place on which they had been landed. This was a pretty good evidence, both of the violence of the storm and the agitation of the sea upon the rock. The safety of the smith’s forge was always an object of essential regard. The ash-pan of the hearth or fire-place, with its weighty cast-iron back, had been washed from their places of supposed security: the chains of attachment had been broken, and these ponderous articles were found at a very considerable distance, in a hole on the western side of the rock; while the tools and picks of the Aberdeen masons were scattered about in every direction. It is, however, remarkable, that not a single article was ultimately lost. A mushroom-anchor, weighing about 22 cwt., had been driven from its station at some distance, and thrown upon the rock, being found in one of the landing creeks. The floating-buoy being still attached to it, had received no material damage, though it had been chafed and was water-logged. This buoy, with its moorings, consisting of 24 fathoms of chain, and the anchor, had been given up as lost, ever since the gale; but just as the boats were about to leave the rock, they were fortunately observed between two ledges of rock, by one of the seamen.

[Sidenote: Work, this tide, continues only for one hour.]

After having been two hours and a half upon the rock this morning, boats left it at a quarter past 8. At half-past 6 P. M., they again returned; but the smith having fallen into the water in landing, got the tinder so wetted, that he could not strike fire, and the work was left off at 7, after one hour’s work, for want of sharp tools.--The site of the beacon being now prepared, and the stanchion-holes excavated, the mode of employing the artificers was reversed, only four being occupied at the beacon works, and twelve in preparing the foundation of the light-house.

[Sidenote: Floating-light first exhibited.]

This being the night on which the floating-light was advertised to be lighted, it was accordingly exhibited, to the great joy of every one. For, besides the benefit to be derived by shipping in general, from this temporary light, it was also to be of great service to the operations at the Bell Rock, as it became a point of reference for the conveniency and safety of the light-house vessels, either in riding at the buoys, or in cruising about the rock. The event of lighting up this ship, was, therefore, ushered in with three hearty cheers, and a dram was served out to all hands.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.]

The weather continuing to be moderate, with gentle breezes from NW. to N.NE., this morning the work commenced at the rock at half-past 6, and the boats left it again at a quarter from 9, after the artificers had been at work two hours and a half.

[Sidenote: Light-house Yacht becomes a Tender to the works.]

The writer was made happy to-day, by the return of the Light-house Yacht, from a voyage to the Northern Light-houses. She had sailed from the Bell Rock on the 5th of last month for the Orkneys, and had passed the Western Islands to the Clyde, returning to the eastern coast by the Forth and Clyde Canal, after having discharged stores at the several Light-houses in her track. The arrival of this vessel was a great relief, as she brought a set of moorings with her for the floating-light, which still rode at single anchor. Having immediately removed on board of this fine vessel of eighty-one tons register, the artificers gladly followed, for, though they found themselves more pinched for accommodation on board of the Yacht, and still more so in the Smeaton; yet they greatly preferred either of these to the Pharos or floating-light, on account of her rolling motion, though in all respects fitted up for their conveniency.

[Sidenote: Artificers agree to remain at the rock after their engagement had expired.]

The writer called them to the quarter-deck, and informed them that having been one month afloat, in terms of their agreement, they were now at liberty to return to the work-yard at Arbroath, if they preferred this to continuing at the Bell Rock. But they replied, that, in the prospect of soon getting the beacon erected upon the rock, and having made a change from the floating-light, they were now perfectly reconciled to their situation, and would remain afloat till the end of the working season. This was considered a matter of the greatest importance to the success of the work; for, from the circumstances of the bad weather, and the drifting of the floating-light, it seemed extremely doubtful but the whole of the workmen might have been induced to go on shore, which would have deterred others from embarking in this perilous service, at so advanced a period of the season. At all events, it must have required no small trouble to have brought a new set of men to expertness in the minutiæ of the traffic in boats, and getting in and out of the vessels. Of those who had originally come off to the work on the 17th of August, only one man, already alluded to, who was a great martyr to sea-sickness, had returned to the work-yard.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 17th.]

[Sidenote: Accident happens to one of the boats.]

The wind was at NE. this morning, and though there were only light airs, yet there was a pretty heavy swell coming ashore upon the rock. The boats landed at half-past 7 o’clock A. M., at the creek on the southern side of the rock, marked Port Hamilton in Plate VI., which to-day was found to be the most accessible landing-place. But as one of the boats was in the act of entering this creek, the seaman at the bow oar, who had just entered the service, having inadvertently expressed some fear, from a heavy sea which came rolling towards the boat, and one of the artificers having at the same time looked round and missed a stroke with his oar, such a preponderance was thus given to the rowers upon the opposite side, that when the wave struck the boat, it threw her upon a ledge of shelving rocks, where the water left her, and she having _kanted_ to seaward, the next wave completely filled her with water. After making considerable efforts, the boat was again got afloat in the proper track of the creek, so that we landed without any other accident than a complete ducking. This accident caused us to lose some time; but, as the boats could not conveniently leave the rock till flood-tide, and there being no possibility of getting a shift of clothes, the artificers began with all speed to work, so as to bring themselves into heat, while the writer, and his assistants, kept as much as possible in motion. Having remained more than an hour upon the rock, the boats left it at half-past 9; and after getting on board, the writer recommended to the artificers, as the best mode of getting into a state of comfort, to strip off their wet clothes, and go to bed for an hour or two. No farther inconveniency was felt, and no one seemed to complain of the affection called “catching cold.”

It was a standing order in the landing department, that every man should use his greatest exertions, in giving the boats sufficient force or velocity to preserve their steerage-way in entering the respective creeks at the rock, that the contending seas might not have the command of the boat at places where the free use of the oars could not be had, on account of the surrounding rocks. The late accident, accordingly, put all hands more upon their guard, as such an occurrence might have proved fatal to all on board, under a very slight change of circumstances.

[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.]

[Sidenote: Floating-light moored in her new station.]

The first object to be accomplished, with the assistance of the Light-house Yacht, was to get the floating-light secured at her new station, an operation which required the finest of weather. To-day, the wind was at NE., and although moderate, it was, of all others, most dreaded at the Bell Rock, the heavy gale of the 6th instant having been from this direction. The writer, however, judged it advisable to proceed with the laying down of the new moorings, and in case of any accident by the slipping of the chain, as formerly, the artificers, instead of going to the rock this tide, were kept on board, that the seamen and all hands might be on the spot to render assistance. These new moorings consisted of 40 fathoms of chain, made from iron-bars of one inch square, with a cast-iron mushroom-anchor, weighing 1 ton 1 cwt. 2 qrs. 4 lb. This anchor and chain, were let down in a depth of twenty-one fathoms, the Bell Rock being from the new station SE. ½ S., distant two and a half miles; Redhead N. by E., distant ten miles; Arbroath N.NW., distant about ten miles; Fifeness SW. by W., distant about eleven miles, and Isle of May SW. by S., distant sixteen miles. The moorings having been laid down on this spot, a buoy was placed upon them. The Yacht then took the floating-light in tow to her new station, where she was made fast to the chain, with a new cable measuring sixteen inches in circumference. This business was successfully accomplished at about 2 o’clock P. M., after six hours of very hard work.

The first cables of the floating-light were of patent cordage, made of the very best materials, and most beautifully laid by machinery. But the sailors complained that these ropes were so stiff and unpliable, that they could neither be got stowed in the hold, nor run freely out of the hause-holes. These difficulties were also more felt with the patent laid cables, after the weather became somewhat cold. It was, therefore, found necessary to get a new cable, laid in the ordinary way, for the winter months.

[Sidenote: Smeaton arrives with the beams of the Beacon in tow.]

Another important occurrence, connected with the operations of this season, was the arrival of the Smeaton at 4 P. M., having in tow the six principal beams of the Beacon-house, together with all the stanchions and other work on board for fixing it on the rock. The mooring of the floating-light was a great point gained, but, in the erection of the beacon at this late period of the season, new difficulties presented themselves. The success of such an undertaking, at any season, was precarious; because a single day of bad weather occurring, before the necessary fixtures could be made, might sweep the whole apparatus from the rock. Notwithstanding these difficulties, the writer had determined to make the trial, although he could almost have wished, upon looking at the state of the clouds, and the direction of the wind, that the apparatus for the beacon had been still in the work-yard.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.]

[Sidenote: Preparations for erecting them.]

The weather to-day did not prognosticate any thing very favourable; the wind, though in light breezes, continued at NE., and it was occasionally almost calm. The main beams of the Beacon were made up in two separate rafts, fixed with bars and bolts of iron. One of these rafts, not being immediately wanted, was left astern of the floating-light, and the other was kept in tow by the Smeaton, at the buoy nearest to the rock. The Light-house Yacht rode at another buoy, with all hands on board that could possibly be spared out of the floating-light; including also ten additional men, as carpenters, smiths and sailors, brought off for this operation. The party of artificers and seamen which landed this morning on the Bell Rock, counted altogether forty in number. At half-past 8 o’clock, a Derrick or mast of thirty feet in height, was erected and properly supported with guy-ropes, for suspending the block for raising the first principal beam of the beacon; and a winch-machine was also bolted down to the rock for working the purchase-tackle. The necessary blocks and tackle were likewise laid to hand and properly arranged. The artificers and seamen were severally allotted in squads to different stations; some were to bring the principal beams to hand, others were to work the tackles, while a third set had the charge of the iron-stanchions, bolts, and wedges, so that the whole operation of raising the beams, and fixing them to the rock, might go forward in such a manner that some provision might be made, in every stage of the work, for securing what had been accomplished, in case of a change of weather.

Upon raising the derrick, all hands on the rock spontaneously gave three hearty cheers, as a favourable omen of our future exertions in pointing out more permanently the position of the rock. Even to this single spar of timber, could it be preserved, a drowning man might lay hold. When the Smeaton drifted on the 2d of this month, such a spar would have been sufficient to save us, till she could have come to our relief. These preparations for the erection of the Beacon having been previously made, the writer collected the heads of the several departments on board of the Light-house Yacht, particularly the foremen of the builders and joiners, and the masters and mates of the vessels. Here the operation of raising and fixing the first four beams was again talked over and arranged, as, from the very limited period of working on the rock, every thing required to be performed in the most prompt and systematic manner, as previously settled.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 20th.]

[Sidenote: Four of the principal beams erected.]

The wind this morning was variable, but the weather continued extremely favourable for the operations throughout the whole day. At 6 A. M. the boats were in motion, and the raft, consisting of four of the six principal beams of the Beacon-house, each measuring about sixteen inches square, and fifty feet in length, was towed to the rock, where it was anchored, that it might _ground_ upon it as the water ebbed. At 7 A. M. the boats of the Floating-light, the Yacht, and the Smeaton, arrived at the rock, when the work immediately commenced. The sailors and artificers, including all hands to-day, counted no fewer than fifty-two, being perhaps the greatest number of persons ever collected upon the Bell Rock. It was early in the tide when the boats reached the rock, and the men worked a considerable time up to their middle in water, every one being more eager than his neighbour to be useful. Even the four artificers, who had hitherto declined working on Sunday, were to-day most zealous in their exertions; they had indeed become so convinced of the precarious nature and necessity of the work, that they never afterwards absented themselves from the rock on Sunday, when a landing was practicable.

[Sidenote: Method of raising the principal beams of the Beacon-house.]

Having made fast a piece of very good new line, at about two thirds from the lower end of one of the beams, the purchase-tackle of the derrick was hooked into the turns of the line, and it was speedily raised, by the number of men on the rock, and the power of the winch tackle. When this log was lifted to a sufficient height, its foot, or lower end, was _stepped_ into the spot which had been previously prepared for it. Two of the great iron stanchions were then set into their respective holes, on each side of the beam, when a rope was passed round them and the beam, to prevent it from slipping, till it could be more permanently fixed. The derrick or upright spar used for carrying the tackle to raise the first beam, was placed in such a position as to become useful for supporting the upper end of it, which now became, in its turn, the prop of the tackle for raising the second beam, which was laid in such a position, that when hoisted up, its foot slipped into its place, when it was, in like manner, lashed to its great iron stanchions on each side. The first and second beams being lashed to one another at the top, served as a pair of sheers, from which the purchase tackle was now suspended, for raising the other two beams, which were also speedily got into their places. The whole difficulty of this operation was in the raising and propping of the first beam, which became a convenient derrick for raising the second, these again a pair of sheers for lifting the third, and the sheers a triangle for raising the fourth. Having thus got four of the six principal beams set on end, it required a considerable degree of trouble to get their upper ends to fit. Here they formed the apex of a cone, and were all together mortised into a large piece of beechwood, and secured, for the present, with ropes, in a temporary manner. During the short period of one tide, all that could further be done for their security, was to put a single screw-bolt through the great kneed bats or stanchions on each side of the beams, and screw the nut home. In this manner each beam, with its respective pair of bats, was fixed, besides being strongly bound together with ropes.

[Sidenote: Method of fixing the great iron stanchions into the rock.]

While one set of the artificers were employed in this operation, another fixed the great iron-stanchions into the rock, into which they were sunk to the depth of about twenty inches. They were of a dove-tail or wedge form, at the lower end, where they measured an inch and a half in thickness; were about four inches in their medium breadth; and were let perpendicularly into the rock, but kneed or bent to suit the angle which the beams formed with it. These great bats or stanchions had much the figure and appearance of a soldier’s musket; they were five feet in length, and weighed about 140 lb. each. Instead of running the bat-holes full of melted lead, as is common in operations of this kind, but which, in case of friction or movement, is apt to be squeezed out of the holes, all the bats made use of at the Bell Rock, as before noticed, were fixed by means of wedges. Several of the artificers were therefore employed in wedging these stanchions first with fir-timber, then with oak, and lastly with iron, driven into spaces left for this purpose, between the bats and the rock. These wedges were driven so firmly, that although the stanchions were the only fixture for this wooden house, it had not been found necessary to drive any of the wedges a second time.

[Sidenote: Have seven hours work upon the rock.]

In this manner these four principal beams were erected, and left in a pretty secure state. It, however, required the whole tide to get this much accomplished. Indeed, the men had commenced during ebb-tide, while there was about two or three feet water upon the site of the Beacon, and as the sea was smooth, they continued the work equally long during flood-tide. Two of the boats being left at the rock to take off the joiners, who were busily employed on the upper parts till 2 o’clock P. M., this tide’s work may be said to have continued for about seven hours, which was the longest that had hitherto been got upon the rock by at least three hours.

When the first boats left the rock with the artificers employed on the lower part of the work during the flood-tide, the Beacon had quite a novel appearance. The beams erected, formed a common base of about thirty-three feet, meeting at the top, which, independently of ulterior works, was about forty-five feet above the rock, and here half a dozen of the artificers were still at work. After clearing the rock, the boats made a stop, when three hearty cheers were given, which were returned with equal good will by those upon the Beacon, from the personal interest which every one felt in the prosperity of this work, so intimately connected with his safety.

[Sidenote: All hands assemble to prayers.]

All hands having returned to their respective ships, they got a shift of dry clothes, and some refreshment. Being Sunday, they were afterwards convened by signal on board of the Light-house Yacht, when prayers were read; for every heart, upon this occasion, felt gladness, and every mind was disposed to be thankful for the happy and successful termination of the operations of this day. The crews then returned to their respective ships, and as nothing further could be done to the Beacon during the night tide, there was no landing made in the evening.

[Sidenote: Monday 21st.]

The weather most fortunately continued favourable for the operations, the wind being westerly, with fresh breezes. The boats landed at half-past 7 A. M., the number of persons on the rock being, as formerly, fifty-two; the work was carried on till half-past 12, making four hours and a half upon the rock. The remaining two principal beams were erected in the course of this tide, which, with the assistance of those set up yesterday, was found to be a very simple operation. In hoisting up the sixth and last log, however, and just when it was about to be kanted into its place, the iron-hook of the principal purchase-block gave way, and this great beam, measuring fifty feet in length, fell upon the rock with a terrible crash; but what is not a little wonderful, although there were fifty-two people engaged round the beacon, yet not one was hurt in the slightest degree by its fall. The beam itself was only a little shaken near the upper end, but was not materially damaged. Another block was immediately hooked, in the place of that which had failed, and the beam was got into its place without much delay. Every possible exertion was now made to fix the lower ends of the beams to the rock, by connecting them with their respective stanchions, while three strong hoops of malleable iron were employed, for securing the whole in one mass at the top.

The six principal beams of the beacon were thus secured, at least in a temporary manner, in the course of two tides, or in the short space of about eleven hours and a half. The only inconveniency attending this operation, arose from the derrick for raising the first beam being rather too short. It was only thirty feet in height, whereas it was found that it would have answered better had it been about forty-five feet. We were also a good deal troubled and perplexed with the logs afloat, from having the six principal beams in two rafts: it would have been more convenient had they been lashed together in pairs, and then rafted in one lot. The writer concludes, upon the whole, that about eight hours only were actually employed in raising the beams of the beacon, and fixing them in a temporary manner. Such is the progress that may be made, when active hands and willing minds set properly to work in operations of this kind.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 22d.]

[Sidenote: Four of the supporting beams set up.]

Having now got the weighty part of this work over, and being thereby relieved of the difficulty both of landing and victualling such a number of men, the Smeaton could now be spared, and she was accordingly dispatched to Arbroath, for a supply of water and provisions, and carried with her six of the artificers who could best be spared. The wind to-day was due west, and blowing so fresh, that the boats had some difficulty in landing the remaining thirty-six persons at 8 A. M. who continued on the rock till half-past 12, having had four and a half hours work. During this tide four of the struts, or supporting beams, were set up, butting against the inside of four of the principal beams. These supports were each about twenty feet in length, varying somewhat according to the inequalities of the rock. At the foot they were fixed to the rock with stanchions, similar to those of the principal beams, and at the top they were connected with pieces of oak, strongly strapped with iron, collapsing around the principal beams to which they were bolted.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 23d.]

[Sidenote: The boats have some difficulty in leaving the rock to-day.]

Landed at half-past 9 this morning, and succeeded in getting up the two remaining supports, and in fixing several of the bracing chains. But, instead of entering at present into any farther details about the several parts of the beacon, it will be better to refer these to the letter-press description of Plate VIII. After having been four and a half hours at work on the rock to-day, the boats left it, though not without considerable difficulty, as the wind had been blowing fresh all the last night, and to-day it was shifting and veering about from N.W. to N.N.E., which had already set up a pretty heavy sea. In going out of the eastern harbour, the boat which the writer steered shipped a sea, that filled her about one-third with water. She had also been hid for a short time, by the waves breaking upon the rock, from the sight of the crew of the preceding boat, who were much alarmed for our safety, imagining for a time that she had gone down.

[Sidenote: Shipping separated by a gale.]

The Smeaton returned from Arbroath this afternoon, but there was so much sea that she could not be made fast to her moorings; she therefore let go her small bower anchor, in order to get a supply of provisions put on board of the Light-house yacht, and receive other six of the artificers to carry ashore. But the anchor was no sooner let go than it broke among the rocks, and the vessel was obliged to return to Arbroath, without being able either to deliver the provisions, or take the artificers on board. The Light-house yacht was also soon obliged to follow her example, as the sea was breaking heavily over her bows. After getting two reefs in the mainsail, and the third or storm-jib set, the wind being SW., she beat to windward, though blowing a hard gale, and got into St Andrew’s Bay, where we passed the night under the lee of Fifeness. In these circumstances, it was impossible for the writer to divest himself of much anxiety for the fate of the newly erected beacon, which was still but imperfectly fixed to the rock.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.]

At 2 o’clock this morning we were in St Andrew’s Bay, standing off and on shore, with strong gales of wind at SW.; at 7 we were off the entrance of the Tay; at 8 stood towards the rock, and at 10 passed to leeward of it, but could not attempt a landing. The beacon, however, appeared to remain in good order, and by 6 P. M. the vessel had again beaten up to St Andrew’s Bay, and got into somewhat smoother water for the night.

[Sidenote: Friday, 25th.]

The wind still continues at SW., blowing very hard; at 7 o’clock bore away for the Bell Rock, but finding a heavy sea running on it, were unable to land. The writer, however, had the satisfaction to observe, with his telescope, that every thing about the beacon appeared entire, and although the sea had a most frightful appearance, yet it was the opinion of every one, that, since the erection of the beacon, the Bell Rock was divested of many of its terrors, and, had it been possible to have got the boats hoisted out and manned, it might have even been found practicable to land: the vessel was, therefore, kept in the track of the rock, till it could be determined if a landing might be effected with the afternoon’s tide. The Yacht, in the mean time, stood towards the Redhead on the opposite shore, and at 5 P. M. returned; but both the wind and sea had rather increased. At 6 it blew so hard, that it was found necessary to strike the topmast and take in a third reef of the mainsail, and under this low canvas we soon reached St Andrew’s Bay, and got again under the lee of the land for the night. The artificers being sea-hardy, were quite reconciled to their quarters on board of the Light-house Yacht; but it is believed that hardly any consideration would have induced them again to take up their abode in the floating-light.

[Sidenote: Saturday, 26th.]

[Sidenote: Land on the rock after an absence of four days.]

In the course of the last night, the wind had shifted from SW. to W. NW., with moderate weather. At day-light, the Yacht steered towards the Bell Rock, and at 8 A. M., made fast to her moorings; at 10, all hands, to the amount of thirty, landed, when the writer had the happiness to find that the beacon had withstood the violence of the gale and the heavy breach of sea, every thing being found in the same state in which it had been left on the 21st. The artificers were now enabled to work upon the rock throughout the whole day, both at low and high water, but it required the strictest attention to the state of the weather, in case of their being overtaken with a gale, which might prevent the possibility of getting them off the rock. To-day, one half of the artificers remained on the beacon till half-past 6 P. M., having been eight hours and a half at work upon it.

[Sidenote: Smith’s forge removed from the rock to the Beacon.]

Two somewhat memorable circumstances in the annals of the Bell Rock attended the operations of this day; one was the removal of Mr James Dove, the foreman smith, with his apparatus, from the rock to the upper part of the beacon, where the forge was now erected on a temporary platform, laid on the cross beams or upper framing. The other was, the artificers having dined for the first time upon the rock, their dinner being cooked on board of the Yacht, and sent to them by one of the boats. But what afforded the greatest happiness and relief, was the removal of the large bellows, which had all along been a source of much trouble and perplexity, by their hampering and incommoding the boat which carried the smiths and their apparatus. The men belonging to that boat were so delighted with this occurrence, that while the bellows were in the act of being hoisted up to their new station, they gave three such hearty cheers, from below, as astonished and surprised those who were working the tackle on the beacon, to such a degree, that, for a moment, they let the rope slip through their hands, and had they not speedily caught hold again, this useful implement might have been dashed to pieces,--which would have been a misfortune of no small import, considering the state of the works at the present crisis.

[Sidenote: Sunday 27th.]

It being now the period of neap-tides, other ten of the artificers were sent ashore to the work-yard at Arbroath, which reduced our complement at the rock to twenty. The boats landed the people this morning at 11, but the masons had only about an hour’s work on the highest part of the foundation of the light-house, which was only partially left by the water, the joiners and two blacksmiths being busily employed in completing and securing the several parts of the beacon, particularly in screwing the bolts of the stanchions and bracing-chains, and in staying the lower part of the beams. They continued at these operations till 6 o’clock P. M., having been nine hours upon the rock.

[Sidenote: Monday, 28th.]

[Sidenote: The writer sails for Arbroath after having been four weeks afloat.]

The joiners and smiths were landed on the beacon at 7 A. M., where they continued all day, and were brought off again at 5 P. M. The Smeaton had just returned from Leith, where she had been sent for sundry materials connected with the work. The joiners and smiths were ten hours upon the rock to-day, which was the longest period they had hitherto been upon it at any one time. They now had their dinner regularly sent to the beacon, and could continue at work throughout the whole day, while the weather was sufficiently moderate to admit of the boats plying to and from the rock. To-day the water did not leave it, and it was now the seventh day since the lowest part of the foundation or site of the light-house had been seen. The Beacon being now in a comparative state of security, the Smeaton was left at the rock as a tender, and the writer sailed in the Light-house yacht, this afternoon, to inquire into the operations of the work-yard at Arbroath. After setting sail, and looking back upon the Bell Rock, it was quite astonishing to observe the change in the appearance of things, which the erection of these beams had produced. To shipping they became an excellent beacon; while they induced the greatest confidence of safety in all who were actively engaged in this work. The vessel anchored in the bay of Arbroath, at a late hour, when the writer landed, for the first time since the commencement of the working season, on the 17th of August; after having been between four and five weeks afloat.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.]

This morning was occupied in going over the work-yard with Mr David Logan, clerk of works, who had charge of the hewing department. The first entire course of the building was now partly laid upon the platform: a few stones of the second course, and several of the higher courses, were also in progress. But from the backward state of the quarries in the production of stones of large dimensions, it was found necessary to make some additional exertions for procuring a more regular supply, and a person was therefore dispatched to the quarries of Aberdeen and Mylnefield for this purpose.

[Sidenote: Sails again for the Bell Rock.]

Having made some further arrangements in the work-yard, the writer again embarked in the Yacht, and sailed for the Bell Rock this forenoon, carrying with him Mr Peter Logan, the foreman builder, and the artificers who had formerly been at the rock; but who had expressly stipulated that they were not to be obliged to continue longer afloat than the approaching spring-tides, when it was expected the Beacon works would be completely secured for the winter. In the early part of this day, there was little or no wind, but in the afternoon it came to blow very hard from south by west, and in the evening it had increased to a hard gale. Having stood off to the Bell Rock, and put the vessel under low canvas, we hailed the floating-light, and found her labouring very hard with sixty fathoms of cable out. We then stretched to the southern side of the Bell Rock, when the vessel was laid to; but the Smeaton, which was also in company, being a small vessel, and much hampered with boats, was not in a condition to keep at sea, and as soon as the gale got up she stood in for Arbroath, and landed Mr Francis Watt, the foreman-joiner, and the artificers under his charge, to wait a favourable change of weather.

[Sidenote: Wednesday, 30th.]

[Sidenote: The vessels again separated by a gale.]

This morning it was calculated, by Mr Gloag, the commander of the Light-house Yacht, that she had drifted about thirty miles, in a SE. direction from the Redhead. About mid-day, the wind shifted to NW., and we steered for St Abb’s Head, which was seen about twilight in the evening, and our course was directed across the Firth of Forth. When in the act of putting about the ship, the stem boat was very nearly lost, having been struck by a heavy sea which unhooked the fore-tackle. At midnight we got within a few miles of the light of May, and soon afterwards found smooth water in St Andrew’s Bay, where we tacked, or “stood to and again,” as the sailors term it, all night.

[Sidenote: 1807, October.]

[Sidenote: October, Thursday 1st.]

This morning the wind shifted to NE. with moderate breezes. In the course of the forenoon we beat towards the Bell Rock, and sailed round it, when every thing appeared to be in good order about the beacon. Having no shelter in St Andrew’s Bay with this wind, the Yacht stood alternately towards Arbroath and the Bell Rock for the night. The floating-light being a most excellent guide for putting about, before the vessel got too near to the rock. The older sailors on board of the Yacht, on this occasion, made frequent observations as to the utility of this temporary light, expressing their admiration at the change of circumstances which had led to their cruising with so much confidence, both by day and night, in the immediate vicinity of this dangerous rock.

[Sidenote: Friday 2d.]

[Sidenote: Effect a landing at the rock.]

The wind having come round to NW. with fresh breezes, it soon run down the north-easterly swell of the sea, and at half-past 1 P. M., all hands, to the amount of twenty, landed on the rock, though not without difficulty. Twelve of the masons were engaged during three hours, or till 4 o’clock, in excavating the foundation of the light-house, while the eight joiners and smiths, who also had arrived with the Smeaton, were employed at the works of the beacon for nine hours and a half; and having continued at work by torchlight, they left the rock at half-past 10 o’clock P. M.

[Sidenote: State of the Beacon after the late gale.]

On carefully examining into the state of things at the Bell Rock, after the late gale, the writer had the satisfaction to find, that the principal beams of the beacon, with their diagonal supports, cross-beams and stanchions connecting them to the rock, had not the smallest appearance of working or shifting, as mechanics express it. One of the tie chains had indeed given way, and hung loosely from the beacon, and one of the bracing screws had wrought off its nut. This was an evidence that the principal beams from the elasticity of the timber, had been acted upon by the sea, and that they still required some additional stay in the middle. Such, however, were the fixtures of the beacon to the rock with the iron stanchions, and its connection at the top, where it was strongly girt with circular hoops of iron, that it was perfectly firm at both extremities. The central support was intended to be effected by means of strong bars of iron, stretching between the principal beams; but the season was now too far advanced for such an undertaking, and therefore, the bracing-chains, represented in Plate VIII., were attached for the present.

It was not a little remarkable, that notwithstanding the impression which the sea had produced during the late gale, in shaking the beacon, so as to break one of the tie-chains, unscrew one of the bracing-bolts, and in shaking several of the smith’s tools from his hearth on the platform at the top, yet these tools, and other small articles of iron, were all found lying on the rock. The nut of the bolt, for example, was got immediately under the chain from which it had dropped. Several other striking examples of this kind were observable, shewing how little will shelter articles somewhat ponderous in themselves, when they lie at a considerable depth in water.

[Sidenote: Saturday 3d.]

[Sidenote: Working hours greatly extended.]

The wind being west to-day, the weather was very favourable for the operations at the rock, and during the morning and evening tides, with the aid of torch-light, the masons had seven hours’ work upon the site of the building. The smiths and joiners, who landed at half-past 6 A. M., did not leave the rock till a quarter past 11 P. M., having been at work, with little intermission, for sixteen hours and three quarters. When the water left the rock, they were employed at the lower parts of the beacon, and as the tide rose or fell, they shifted the place of their operations. From these exertions, the fixing and securing of the beacon made rapid advancement, as the men were now landed in the morning, and remained throughout the day. But, as a sudden change of weather might have prevented their being taken off at the proper time of tide, a quantity of bread and water was always kept on the Beacon.

[Sidenote: Sunday 4th.]

The wind was southerly during the fore part of the day, and towards evening it became quite calm. The boats landed the artificers this morning at a quarter before 7 o’clock; when the masons had three and a half hours’ work at the foundation of the building, but the spring-tides were now taking off; the best of them having unfortunately been lost during the late gale. The smiths and joiners, however, continued their operations throughout the whole of the day, and did not leave the rock till half-past 12 at night.

During this period of working at the Beacon all the day, and often a great part of the night, the writer was much on board of the Tender; but, while the masons could work on the rock, and frequently also while it was covered by the tide, he remained on the Beacon; especially during the night, as he made a point of being on the rock to the latest hour, and was generally the last person who stepped into the boat. He had laid this down as part of his plan of procedure; and in this way had acquired, in the course of the first season, a pretty complete knowledge and experience of what could actually be done at the Bell Rock, under all circumstances of the weather. By this means also his assistants, and the artificers and mariners, got into a systematic habit of proceeding at the commencement of the work, which, it is believed, continued throughout the whole of the operations.

[Sidenote: Beacon works finished for the season.]

The external part of the beacon was now finished, with its supports and bracing-chains, and whatever else was considered necessary for its stability, in so far as the season would permit; and although much was still wanting to complete this fabric, yet it was in such a state that it could be left without much fear of the consequences of a storm. The painting of the upper part was nearly finished this afternoon; and the Smeaton had brought off a quantity of brush-wood and other articles, for the purpose of heating or charring the lower part of the principal beams, before being laid over with successive coats of boiling pitch, to the height of from eight to twelve feet, or as high as the rise of spring-tides. A small flag-staff having also been erected to-day, a flag was displayed for the first time from the Beacon, by which its perspective effect was greatly improved. On this, as on all like occasions at the Bell Rock, three hearty cheers were given; and the steward served out a dram of rum to all hands, while the Light-house Yacht, Smeaton, and Floating-light, hoisted their colours in compliment to the Erection.

[Sidenote: Monday 5th.]

To-day the wind was westerly, and the weather was very wet; but this was thought nothing of at the Bell Rock, so long as the wind kept moderate. At a quarter past 8 A. M. the boats landed the artificers. The masons had only 2½ hours’ work at the site of the building, owing to the smallness of the ebb-tide; but the joiners and smiths continued their operations till half-past 11 P. M., and were consequently 15 hours and a quarter upon the Rock.

[Sidenote: Mr Rennie and one of his sons visit the Rock.]

In the afternoon, and just as the tide’s work was over, Mr JOHN RENNIE, engineer, accompanied by his son Mr GEORGE, on their way to the harbour-works of Fraserburgh, in Aberdeenshire, paid a visit to the Bell Rock, in a boat from Arbroath. It being then too late in the tide for landing, they remained on board of the Light-house Yacht all night, when the writer, who had now been secluded from society for several weeks, enjoyed much of Mr Rennie’s interesting conversation; both on general topics, and professionally upon the progress of the Bell-Rock works, on which he was consulted as chief engineer. The weather continued very moderate all night; but although there was little swell in the sea, yet our quarters on board of the Yacht were not the most agreeable, especially to strangers. The vessel, being perfectly new, was so completely water-tight, that it was hardly possible to keep her free of bilge-water, and so strong was the hydrogenous gas or offensive effluvia arising from it, that it had affected the colour of the paint of the cabin floor-cloth, and even, to a certain degree, blackened the silver plate, coins and watch-cases on board, notwithstanding the frequent pumping of the ship, and other means which were taken to sweeten her.

[Sidenote: Tuesday 6th.]

[Sidenote: Works given up for the season.]

The artificers landed this morning at 9, after which one of the boats returned to the ship for the writer and Messrs Rennie, who, upon landing, were saluted with a display of the colours from the Beacon, and by three cheers from the workmen. Both the weather and the tide were pretty favourable for the operations, and the masons continued about three hours at work. Every thing was now in a prepared state for leaving the rock, and giving up the works afloat for this season, excepting some small articles, which would still occupy the smiths and joiners for a few days longer. They, accordingly, shifted on board of the Smeaton, while the Yacht left the rock for Arbroath, with Messrs Rennie, the writer, and the remainder of the artificers. But, before taking leave, the steward served out a farewell-glass, when three hearty cheers were given, and an earnest wish expressed, that every thing, in the spring of 1808, might be found in the same state of good order as it was now about to be left.

In concluding the account of the first season’s work, the writer may observe, that he had not at any time previously to his engaging in the Bell Rock works, been more than five or six days at sea on a stretch, even in the course of his voyages to the Northern Light-houses. But on the present occasion he had now been afloat upwards of seven weeks, with the exception of a single day spent in the Work Yard. Upon his return to the shore, therefore, after having successfully closed these critical operations, he felt a mixed emotion of happiness and gratitude, for so prosperous a termination; and, participating in those feelings which are known to actuate the mariner, after a dangerous voyage, he looked with thankfulness to that Providence which had preserved those engaged in the work under so many perilous circumstances.

[Sidenote: Number of days the artificers were actually at work.]

The period during which the works had been continued, appeared of much longer duration to every one than it really was, for, upon calculating the actual time spent upon the rock, it amounted to about 180 hours, of which only 133 or about 13½ days, of 10 hours each, could be said to have been actively employed. Upon looking back on this result, the writer is astonished at what had been accomplished in so short a period; for besides the erection of the principal beams of the Beacon-house, something considerable had also been done towards the preparation of the site of the Light-house. He cannot, therefore, help thinking, that the experience of this season’s work at the Bell Rock, affords a good example of what may be executed under similar circumstances, when every heart and every hand is anxiously and zealously engaged; for the artificers wrought at the erection of the Beacon as for life; or somewhat like men stopping a breach in a wall to keep out an overwhelming flood.

PROGRESS OF THE WORK.

In stating the progress of the Bell Rock works at the close of the first season, it is hardly necessary to say, that, for success, and ultimate utility, they far exceeded the writer’s most sanguine expectations. By the erection of the frame-work of the Beacon-house, the rock had in a great measure been robbed of its terrors to those employed in building the Light-house. At all times when a boat could be put to sea, or approach this sunken reef, there was not now that actual danger in landing which formerly presented itself. Should the Tender in future go a-drift, or a boat happen to be wrecked on the rock, the Beacon could now be looked to as a place of shelter, till more efficient means could be resorted to. This work had always been a great desideratum with the writer, who had now chiefly to consider how the future steps were to be attained, having much less to occupy his attention in regard to the safety of the people employed.

The whole of the artificers being collected at the work-yard of Arbroath, in the latter end of the month of October, their number amounted to forty-four. It, therefore, became indispensably necessary to get forward with the quarries, otherwise a number of experienced workmen must have been paid off, which would have been attended with much disadvantage to the operations at the rock next year. There was now every prospect that by mid-summer, the foundation or site of the Light-house would be completely excavated and ready for commencing the building; while as yet the hewing of one entire course had not been completed, for want of materials, although the stones of three or four successive courses were in progress. For example, 10 blocks of granite were still wanting of the first course, 30 blocks of the second, which measured 18 inches in thickness, and 20 blocks of the third, and so of other courses. The procuring of a sufficient stock of materials, and getting the quarries into a more regular system of supply, became an object which we shall more particularly notice under the article Building Materials, in the following chapter.

[Sidenote: Work-Yard.]

The Work-Yard at Arbroath, where the stones were collected and hewn, consisted of an inclosed piece of ground, extending to about three quarters of an acre, conveniently situate on the northern side of the Lady Lane, or street, leading from the western side of the Harbour, being only about 200 yards distant from the Light-House shipping birth, as will be seen from Plate XII. Upon this plot of ground there was built a suite or range of barrack-rooms for the artificers, and the several apartments connected with the engineer’s office, mould-makers’ drawing-room, stores, work-shops for smiths and joiners, stable, &c. extending 150 feet along the north side of the work-yard, which were now fully occupied. Shades of timber were also constructed for the workmen in wet weather, and a kiln for burning lime. In a centrical position of this ground, a circular platform of masonry was built, on which the stones were laid when dressed, and each course tried and marked, before being shipped for the rock. This platform measured 44 feet in diameter; it was founded with large broad stones, at the depth of about 2 feet 6 inches, and built to within 10 inches of the surface with ruble work; on which a course of neatly dressed and well jointed masonry was laid, of the red sandstone from the quarries to the eastward of Arbroath, which brought the platform on a level with the surface of the ground. Here the dressed part of the first entire course of the Light-House was now lying, and the platform was so substantially built as to be capable of supporting any number of courses which it might be found convenient to lay upon it, in the further progress of the work.

[Sidenote: 1807, November.]

Mr Gloag, who commanded the Light-house Yacht, had been successful in grappling and finding the old moorings of the Pharos floating-light, from which that vessel had drifted after the dreadful gale of the 6th of September. These he had weighed, and removed to within about 400 fathoms of the new ground taken up by that vessel, and had placed a buoy upon them, that, in case of her again drifting, any vessel carrying the floating-light could immediately be brought to ride at these spare moorings. The Yacht had also lifted three of the four floating buoys, with their chains and mushroom anchors, from the neighbourhood of the Bell Rock, leaving one set for the use of the vessel occasionally attending for the purpose of inspecting the Beacon. In the course of the month of November several very severe gales of wind occurred, and Mr Watt, the foreman joiner, who had been appointed to examine the rock at spring-tides, when the weather would permit, with three or four artificers, found some small repairs necessary, in consequence of damage which the Beacon had sustained.

[Sidenote: Sunday 22d.]

[Sidenote: The Writer visits the Rock.]

On the morning of the 22d of this month, the writer landed at the Bell Rock, when the greater part of the bracing-chains of the Beacon were in a loosened state, and hanging from their eye-bolts, like so much shipwreck. Two of the chain-bats were also drawn, which had lifted considerable masses of the rock along with them. But after a most careful and minute examination of the six principal beams of the beacon, and their respective supports, it was satisfactory to find that the great iron-stanchions had not the smallest appearance of working or shifting; the wedges of timber and iron having exactly the same appearance as when they were at first driven home by the hammer; the coating of pitch and tar was also as entire upon the seams and joints as when first applied. Every thing connected with the fixing of the beams at the top was likewise in good order. Nor was it less surprising, after so much stormy weather, to find that the ruble building, with Pozzolano’s mortar, used in filling several holes in the site of the Beacon, remained in its place, having now become fully as hard as the adjoining parts of the rock.

Although it was found that the bracing-chains could not withstand the shaking and tremulous motion of the Beacon, yet they were again set up and tightened, with the exception of the two that had lifted their bats, with a mass of the rock; which were knocked off altogether. It is here worthy of remark, that the bolts of the bracing screws had always a tendency to unlock, and one of the nuts, as before noticed, had even unscrewed no less than three inches. To prevent this in future, a piece of small wire was turned round the threads of each screw, which had a tendency to preserve them; but still the chains stretched, became loose, and broke their eye-bolts, or lifted part of the rock with the strain. The bracing-chains may, however, be conceived to have had some effect in checking the force of the waves, as was observable in the operation of the sea upon the extensive beds of marine plants. It often happened, when heavy seas were rolling along the Bell Rock, which at a distance threatened to overrun the whole, that, upon reaching these beds of fuci, with which the flat and level parts of the rock were thickly coated, the velocity and force of the waves were immediately checked, and in a great measure destroyed.

[Sidenote: Professor Playfair’s observations about the unlocking of screws.]

The unlocking of screws, where _washers_ had been introduced as a security, was rather unexpected, and the writer took an opportunity of conversing with his much respected friend Professor PLAYFAIR of Edinburgh, regarding this circumstance. The Professor observed, that he had experienced some inconveniency of this kind from the unlocking of almost all the screws of a telescope, which had been sent to him from London by the mail-coach. Indeed from the spiral form of the screw, which is, in fact, an inclined plane, Mr Playfair readily accounted for such an occurrence; and when reflected upon, it seems to be an effect rather to be looked for, and is a reason why rivetting the point of a bolt, in preference to screwing it, should generally be resorted to, where much friction or motion is to be apprehended.

[Sidenote: 1807, December.]

[Sidenote: State of the Floating-light.]

At this visit to the Bell Rock, the writer went also on board of the Floating-light, where every thing was found in good order. On some occasions Mr Sinclair, the commander, stated, that the vessel had rolled excessively hard; that she had shipped two or three very heavy seas over the waste-boards, and that he had found it occasionally necessary to veer out 80 fathoms of cable. He also stated, that the floating-light had been _run foul of_ by a large smack-rigged vessel, with all her canvas set, though the lights were burning perfectly clear. This vessel had struck upon the larboard quarter, damaged the taff-rail, and started three of the floating-lights’ trenails. That they immediately hailed the vessel, but she sheered-off, and her crew made no reply. The smack was beating to the northward, and was much lumbered on the quarter-deck with packages of earthen-ware, which were distinctly seen upon her deck from the brilliancy of the lights.

The sailors on board of the floating-light were all in good health, and appeared to be satisfied with their situation. The master, however, mentioned, that his crew, particularly the young men, calculated very sharply about their turns for leave on shore, which came round in the course of about six weeks. Indeed, the probability is, that had the seamen not been rather compelled to this duty, as a protection against the Impress-service, it might have been found extremely difficult to get able seamen to undertake so dreary a life as the continual round of riding at anchor in the open sea, without the company of other shipping, or the pleasure of intercourse with the shore, as is the case in the ordinary road or anchorage for shipping.

The several departments of the Bell Rock works being arranged for the winter months, the sloop Smeaton was appointed to make several trips to the quarries for stones, while the Light-house Yacht, being stationed at Arbroath, was to attend the Floating-light, and carry off the artificers to examine the state of the Beacon at spring-tides. The writer having adjusted these matters, returned to Edinburgh on the 4th of December. Here he was employed in preparing the necessary implements, procuring materials, and in other objects connected with the work, which will fall more properly to be noticed in the transactions of the year 1808.