Part 3

Mites can be a serious problem and once they appear in a collection, they may show up again and again, even after it was thought that they had all been eradicated. Mites appear as little tiny black specks which are most often seen on the lower jaw and around the eyes. They are often seen in the water dish even before they are seen on the snake. Control is very simple. The No-Pest strip is very effective in controlling mites. It is generally recommended to attach a piece of the strip on the inside top of the cage. Since the vapor fumes are heavier than air, they will float to the bottom of the cage. The water dish should thus be taken out of the cage, but everything else, including the snake, should be left in the cage. Allow the strip to remain in the cage for two days. Remove the strip, thoroughly disinfect the cage and all decorations in it. The strip will have killed all the adult mites, but not the eggs. It is most important to replace the strip in about two weeks, then repeat the cleaning procedure. The No-Pest strip will also help to control ticks and flies.

Housing requirements are not as critical for snakes as they may be for other amphibians and reptiles. Some collectors build their own cages, others use store bought cages. This author prefers glass aquarium-type cages, with screen tops. The aquarium-type is easy to clean. It is often recommended to darken three sides of the aquarium, in order to give the snake a sense of security. Cage bedding is up to the keeper. Natural rock or sand may look good, but are much harder to keep clean. It is recommended that newspaper be used on the bottom of your aquarium or wooden snake cage.

The amount of space required by your snake is rather small. Snakes spend so much time coiled up in one corner, or on a tree branch, that the large snake cage is of little value. A cage the size of a 10-gallon aquarium will be large enough for all but the large pythons or boas (over 5 feet). Remember to keep the snake's native habitat in mind if you are going to decorate the cage. A snake cage should not be kept wet or even damp. Even water snakes need only a dish of water for drinking.

What snake makes the best pet is a hard question to answer. The following list will give you an idea of some of the species commonly kept as "pets":

Rat Snakes (genus _Elaphe_), rodent eaters from eastern and southern U.S., average size up to 4 feet. Are prone to bite when first caught, but usually tame down. The red rat snake (_Elaphe g. guttata_) is one of the most beautiful of North American snakes.

King Snakes and Milk Snakes (genus _Lampropeltis_), usually eat small rodents, lizards, and small snakes. Disposition, same as rat snakes.

Bull Snake (_Pituophis melanoleucus sayi_), a large constrictor, and the largest snake native to Missouri. Will eat adult rats, mice, and baby chicks. Usually do well in captivity.

Water Snakes (genus _Natrix_), will eat minnows, frogs, tadpoles, and sometimes mice. They will bite when captured, and will at times continue to bite after being in captivity for a long time.

Hognosed Snake (genus _Hetrodon_), a smaller variety, averages 2 to 2½ feet. Feeds only on toads, but nearly always eats in captivity.

Boa Constrictor (_Boa constrictor_), one of the most commonly kept snakes. Being a tropical snake--it must be kept warm (80 to 88°F). Will eat rodents and birds.

Burmese python (_Python molurus bivittatus_), which may reach 20 to 24 feet long, is often kept as a pet by the amateur snake collector. They require the same temperature and food as the boa constrictor.

Reticulated Python (_Python reticulatus_), same as the Burmese python, but will grow longer. Large specimens will eat rabbits.

African Rock Python (_Python sebae_), same in general needs as the Burmese Python. Will grow slightly longer, and may not tame as easily as some other species. Large specimens will eat rabbits.

Ball Python (_Python regius_), another species from Africa, but averages 3 to 4 feet in length. Usually a good feeder on rodents, but at times may only eat birds. Require the same needs as other tropical species.

The following is a list of snakes that may have a few drawbacks as pets, or are not recommended to keep in captivity:

Racers and Coachwhips (_Coluber_ and _Masticophis_), very nervous ... seldom eat in captivity.

Ringneck, Brown, and other small burrowing snakes; these secretive species often will not eat in captivity, and require animal foods which may be difficult to secure.

Ribbon, Garter, and Green snakes; because they may be hard to feed in winter, it is best to keep only during the summer months.

Eastern Indigo Snake (_Drymarchon corais couperi_), this species is protected in the state of Florida, and is becoming rare over all its range.

Cook's Tree Boa (_Corallus enydris cookii_), this species, as well as other tree boas, often have a bad disposition, and may feed only on birds.

Emerald Tree Boa (_Corallus canina_), not only does this species prefer birds to eat, they also seem to require a very high humidity.

Most tropical snakes do not do well in captivity. This may be due to the fact that they are taken out of their natural environment and it is next to impossible to duplicate the climatic conditions that they are used to.

Although the above lists are far from complete, it is hoped that they will give the reader some basic ideas on how to select the snakes for his small, home collection. Once again, it should be emphasized that within a particular species of snake, there may be some differences in individual personalities. It is possible to get a black rat snake that doesn't eat, or a racer (genus _Coluber_) that does not bite and eats well in captivity. A person should learn from their own experiences, and also from the experiences of others, both professional and amateur.

The keeping of snakes can be a very rewarding and enjoyable experience, but it must be remembered that it is also a responsibility. You are responsible for the care and well-being of the animal. You must learn as much as possible about the requirements of a particular snake before you decide to keep it as a "pet".

R.N.B.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Allen, E.E., and W.T. Neill. 1950. Keep them alive! The Reptile Inst., Silver Springs, Fla.

Anderson, P. 1965. The reptiles of Missouri. Univ. Mo. Press, Columbia, Mo.

Anon. 1969. Leaflet #1-5 (turtle and tortoise care), International Turtle & Tortoise Soc., Los Angeles, Calif.

Breen, J.F. 1967. Reptiles and Amphibians in your home. T.F.H. Publications, Jersey City, N.J.

Conant, R. 1975. A field guide to reptiles and amphibians. _2nd_ ed. Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, Mass.

Cochran, D.M. 1961. Living Amphibians of the World. Doubleday, Garden City, N.Y.

Goin, C.J., and O.B. Goin. 1971. Introduction to herpetology. 2nd ed. Freeman, San Francisco, Calif.

Johnson, T.R. 1970. Salamanders in captivity. The Kentucky Herpetologist, Ky. Herp. Soc., Vol. 1(3):9-10.

Johnson, T.R., and R.N. Bader. 1974. Annotated checklist of Missouri amphibians and reptiles. Special Issue No. 1, St. Louis Herp. Soc.

Kauffeld, C. 1969. Snakes: The keeper and the kept. Doubleday, N.Y.

Leviton, A.E. 1972. Reptiles and amphibians of North America. Doubleday, N.Y.

Nace, G., _et al._ 1974. Amphibians, guidelines for the breeding, care, and management of laboratory animals. Nat. Acad. Sci., Washington, D.C.

Pritchard, P.C.H. 1967. Living turtles of the World. T.F.H. Publications, N.Y.

Reichenbach-Klinke, H., and E. Elkan. 1965. Diseases of Amphibians. T.F.H. Publications, Hong Kong.

----. 1965. Diseases of Reptiles. T.F.H. Publications, Hong Kong.

Schmidt, K.P., and R.F. Inger. 1957. Living reptiles of the World. Hanover House, N.Y.

Smith, H.M. 1969. Turtles. T.F.H. Publications, Jersey City, N.J.

- NOTES -

THE ST. LOUIS HERPETOLOGICAL SOCIETY

The St. Louis area amateur and professional herpetologists have organised a regional herpetological society. The S.L.H.S. is interested in promoting public education and conservation of the herpetofauna of Missouri. The organisation has a monthly meeting, guest speaker, a monthly newsletter, as well as special publications. All areas of herpetology are the concern of its members; herp management, taxonomy, conservation, and so on.

People of all ages have become members of this active group. They are interested in all forms of amphibians and reptiles, both of the state of Missouri and species outside our state. Dues are $5.00 per year, after July _1st_ the dues are $2.50. For more information, please write to any of the persons listed on the inside front cover.

FOOTNOTES

[1]Endangered Species

Transcriber's Notes

--Silently corrected a few typos.

--Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

--In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.