Part 2

Description and diet: Tortoise is the term generally used in referring to dry land turtles. They seldom swim or enter the water. Carapace and plastron (upper and lower shell) range from light tan to dark brown in color; The skin is rough appearing and the legs are scaled and elephant-like, with no webbing of the feet. Food consists of vegetables, fruits, grass cuttings, dandelions, petals from various garden flowers, bits of raw meat that is finely chopped, and canned dog food. Foods such as carrots, string beans, and corn are valuable in the diet, and should be ground or scraped. Many of the tortoises are fond of earthworms, so these should also be offered. Food supplements, such as cod liver oil, liquid multiple vitamins, powdered calcium, and bone meal, should also be added to foods periodically. Box, wood, and Muhlenberg's turtles (as well as other semi-aquatic species) will do well in captivity if a shallow water dish is provided. These species will generally eat meat as well as vegetable matter.

Cold weather care: In the fall, around late October or early November, your tortoise will want to hibernate. It will probably dig its own burrow out of doors, given it is in the correct environment. If the conditions outside are not proper for your tortoise to burrow, he may be placed in a box in a cool, dry area where a constant temperature can be maintained, such as a garage. Cover him with a layer or two of old, shredded newspapers. He is now ready to be "stored" for the winter. If your tortoise is to spend the winter in the house, be sure to keep food and water available. House temperatures do not permit a tortoise to hibernate properly, and starvation is possible if he is not allowed to eat when he stirs about during the winter.

Hot weather care: Hibernation ends some time in spring, usually in March. The tortoise may be a little sluggish at first, but as the weather becomes warmer, interest and appetite improve. Water, food, and shelter from the sun must always be available, and a night shelter is advised.

Illness and treatments: Most turtle owners are familiar with the basic care requirements of their pets; however, there are a few common ailments that may require prompt treatment. The simple remedies here have been found to be successful in many cases.

Respiratory ailments: Turtles and tortoises are usually susceptible to colds and pneumonia. Bubbling of the nose and mouth and "gasping" are symptoms of this. Isolation from the other turtles in a heated box or aquarium is mandatory. A heat lamp may be used several times a day--but always with a shaded corner into which the turtle can crawl when he gets too hot. Cold-remedy salves can also be rubbed on the turtle's nose to help relieve congestion. The turtle should be kept warm and isolated until all traces of his cold have disappeared. (Injection of an anti-biotic serum into the leg or forelimb, once a day, is sometimes successful, as well as anti-biotic pills given orally; but consult a veterinarian or Society member before attempting this as some drugs are dangerous for turtles.) If caught in its early stages pneumonia can be overcome. The turtle in question should be isolated and kept warm, and the following medicine should be administered with an eye dropper: Dissolve together

½ ounce of water 1 tablet Chlortetracycline 4-5 drops liquid vitamins

Administer daily for two days and then skip a day. Repeat. This formula has proven itself quite effective after 5 or 6 days.

Cracked shell: Immediately place injured turtle in a clean, paper towel-lined box, and bring indoors so that ants and flies will not torment him. If shell is bleeding, gently wash it with a mild solution of boric acid and pat dry. This may have to be done several times before bleeding stops. Put his box in a warm, quiet spot in the house, and leave him completely alone except for offering a shallow bowl of drinking water from time to time. If he survives the first 24 hours, he will probably pull through. (The lungs are under the carapace, and if the broken shell has penetrated the lung area, there is practically nothing that can be done for the turtle.) If the wound is bad or jagged, it may be filled with Canadian Balsam--after bleeding has stopped and then securely tape with electrician's tape. The tape may be left on for several months if necessary, but it should be checked every six weeks or so, to make sure infection has not set in. Once the turtle has started eating and resumed his normal routine, he is probably well on the road to recovery.

Soft shell, and swollen eyes: This is almost always due to an improper diet and lack of direct sunlight. Add vitamins and ground bone meal to the food; offer raw, lean chopped meat; and see that the turtle is placed in direct sunlight for several hours each day. (When turtles are placed in direct sun, they must have a shaded area into which they can retreat when the temperature goes too high.) Swollen eyes may also be bathed in a dilute solution of boric acid to alleviate swelling and puffiness.

Fungus: This appears as white spots, lumps, or flakes on the skin or shell. Addition of plain table salt to the aquarium water will often cure the condition. Fungus on the shell may be helped by painting the area with 5% iodine or 2% gentian violet solution. Always keep the turtle out of the water for a period of 2 to 4 hours after applying either iodine or gentian violet, so as not to wash the medication from the shell or skin. If the fungus continues after several treatments, allow a week or so before experimenting with another medication, as many times the combination of medications can be detrimental to the turtle.

Parasites: Parasites may be suspected if the turtle suffers a great loss of weight or a loss of appetite without apparent cause, or if he has a ravenous appetite. Parasites may be evident in the stools, but are not always readily seen. If suspected, have a veterinarian diagnose and treat this condition. In addition, shots of vitamins can be administered periodically for maintaining good health. If, however, the turtle is on the proper diet, shots such as these may not be needed.

Conclusion:

Many different kinds of turtles make satisfactory additions for your collection. Actually, every one of our native turtles, at least when small in size, can be acceptable. Larger examples of some species, however, are sometimes unpleasant and even positively dangerous as members of your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that should be avoided by the amateur herpetologist:

Adults: Common Snapping Turtles Alligator Snapping Turtle[1] Soft-shelled Turtles Very Large Sliders Musk Turtles Mud Turtles

The larger species, or large adults of some species, tend to become aggressive and dangerous as they grow older, and many times a finger is mistaken for a morsel of food. Avoid the aforementioned turtles if your interest in these hard-shelled friends is new.

These are some turtles, of course, that can be handled without fear of biting or scratching. Any of the smaller species of sliders can make acceptable additions to your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that are, and may be handled and studied by the amateur:

Young: Common Snapping Turtle Soft-shelled Turtles Sliders Musk Turtles Mud Turtles Diamond Back Terrapin

Although young turtles make safe additions to your collection, land turtles of all kinds are best, seldom if ever bite, feed readily, and survive a long time in captivity. They include: Eastern, Florida, Three-toed, and Ornate Box Turtles, and the Red-Foot Tortoise. None of these are commonly available from commercial dealers, however.

D.J.C.

LIZARDS (order Squamata) (suborder Lacertilia)

Keeping lizards as "pets" can be a very challenging task, because, it has been found that many species will not thrive in captivity.

When looking for a lizard to buy or catch, keep in mind some of the basic requirements the animal should have while you are choosing a lizard. The lizard should be alert and active. Check its mouth for signs of sores, bad teeth or gums, or other indications of mouth rot. Check the eyes for discharges, make sure the eyes are not sunken into the head. Observe it walking to insure that there is no damage to the limbs. Do not accept a lizard that has a discharge from the nose, this could be a symptom of a respiratory infection.

Lizards vary a great deal in their dietary requirements, therefore, it is very important that you are very sure of the animal's identification before you purchase or collect it. You cannot always rely on the pet store dealer for an accurate identification. If the lizard is one that you have caught, then you can refer to a field guide for a positive identification.

Some lizards are strictly insect eaters, others eat only fruits and vegetables, some will only eat meat, a few lizards will only eat eggs, and then there are some that will eat nearly anything. Most insectivores will only eat live insects. If it is hard to get live insects, you may be able to get the lizard to accept dead food by offering it on the end of a thin wire. By moving the insect, the lizard will think it is alive, and often will grasp the food. Insectivores require a large amount of food, and the food should be varied: don't feed all meal worms, or all crickets, but try to offer a variety of insects.

The vegetarians or herbivores need to be fed a mixed variety of fruits and vegetables. Often, color will induce a lizard to eat, so always include some apple or tomato to the diet if the lizard doesn't seem interested in food. The meat eaters are often the easiest to induce to eat. Canned dog food is usually used as a basic, but whole mice are much more of a balanced diet. Sometimes it is necessary to skin the mouse in order to get the lizard to eat it. Whatever dietary requirements your lizards have, their food should be supplemented with a vitamin and mineral powder. Steamed bone meal is often used. Just sprinkle a small amount on the food, and then mix it in so the lizards will take it in with their food.

Although the size of the cage is usually not critical for lizards, cage props may be essential in order to insure that the animal thrives. If the lizard is a burrower in the wild then it is often necessary that it be able to burrow in captivity. If the animal is normally arboreal, Then you must have a branch for it to climb on. Because of this, it is most important that you know what species of lizard you have; then learn as much as possible about its habits and habitat.

Besides cage decorations, always have clean drinking water in the cage. Many species of lizards do not drink from a water dish. They obtain their water from dew drops or rain drops that they lap with their tongues. It is advisable to spray the lizards' cage daily with a fine mist of warm water.

An important requirement for lizards is sunlight. Often, a lizard seems to be eating and doing well in captivity, but suddenly dies. This may be due to a lack of sunlight. In many instances the animal may not eat at all. If direct sunlight is not available, it can be substituted by the use of a vita-lite bulb. This bulb, which looks like a fluorescent bulb, can often be purchased from a large plant store or directly from the manufacturer.

Lizards often have a more precise temperature requirement than other reptiles. A daytime temperature range of 85 to 90°F, and dropping to 80°F at night is usually best for the tropical species. Many of the North American desert species also require a high daytime temperature. Adult tegus and monitors can be kept at slightly lower temperatures, usually from 72 to 76°F. As with snakes, the temperature in the lizard cage can be controlled with a light bulb. The size of the cage will determine the size of the bulb needed. As previously stated, temperature can be critical, and many lizards will die if not kept warm enough. Never guess at the cage temperature--always have a small thermometer in the cage, and check it often.

Keeping lizards healthy can be a challenging but also frustrating experience. There is very little information available on lizard diseases. These reptiles are susceptible to many of the diseases that snakes get, and often the symptoms are the same. Lizards can get mouth rot, respiratory infections, parasites (both internal and external), eye infections, and other common reptile diseases. One disease that is common in lizards is impaction of the intestines. This is common in insect eaters that are being fed only meal worms. Often, the impaction is not noticed until after the animal dies. If the lizard is alone, keep track of its food intake and fecal output. If an extended period goes by and the lizard is not making fecal matter, then there could be a physical blockage in the intestine. Put a little mineral oil up the cloaca--this will help to loosen the blockage. The best cure is preventive procedures. Feed a variety of insects if possible, but don't feed all meal worms.

The other diseases that lizards are susceptible to can be treated by using the same medications used for snakes. Dosages, of course, must be less, for we are usually dealing with a much smaller animal.

Good husbandry along with preventive medicine are the best ways to keep your lizard healthy. Keep the cage clean, feed a proper diet, supply sunlight or artificial light, and most important: know the lizards' requirements and natural history.

The following is a list of lizards that usually can be kept successfully in captivity:

Green Iguana: A lizard from Central and South America, mostly herbivorous, is arboreal, and can grow to 6 feet. Tegu: A large carnivore from South America, feeds on mice, not tame. Monitors: Large carnivores from the Old World, most do well. Glass Lizards: Insectivores from North America, will eat dog food, tail breaks off easily. Tokay Gecko: Will eat any small animal or insect. Make good pets. Amevias: Same as tegu.

Most lizards from Missouri should be kept during the summer, then released in early fall where they were collected. Lizards that do not make good pets are: horned lizards, anoles, collared lizards and fence lizards.

As with all animals, there are exceptions to the rule; an iguana may refuse to eat, or a collared lizard may do well for years. Each reptile within a species may act differently from how the whole species may act in captivity. Knowing the lizards' habitat and habits will be the deciding factor in keeping the animal alive and healthy in captivity.

R.N.B.

SNAKES (order Squamata) (suborder Serpentes)

There are many species of snakes throughout the world (over 2,700 species). Some of these make very good "pets", while others never seem to thrive in captivity. Because of the many varieties of snakes, the care of them can vary quite a bit. There are a few basic needs that all snakes, regardless of the species, require in order to do well in captivity.

All snakes are carnivorous. They eat only whole animals. This food may vary from termites to rabbits--with all types of animals in between. This sometimes includes other snakes.

Snakes require clean drinking water, a clean cage to live in, and an all around healthy environment.

The above requirements are easy to meet, but they must not be treated lightly. After the basics are met, there are other requirements that individual species may need.

A common problem with keeping snakes is they often will not eat. Sometimes the reason is simply that they are not satisfied with their environment. Snakes that are arboreal will need a limb in their cage. If they don't have something to climb on they may refuse to eat. Tropical snakes require a higher cage temperature than what is normal room temperature. This can be accomplished by putting a heat lamp above the cage. Always monitor the temperature with a thermometer and try to maintain it around 85°F. Certain species of snakes spend a great deal of time burrowing, and unless they can burrow in their cage they may not eat. Many of the more nervous species of snakes, like the racers, require a hiding box so that they will feel secure. The hiding box is often a good idea for any snake that may refuse to eat if all other conditions are favorable.

Food preference can be an important factor, even with snakes of the same species. Snakes from aquatic habitats generally eat only fish and amphibians. Non-constricting snakes (racers and coachwhip snakes) generally do not eat large rodents or birds, but limit their diet to amphibians, baby rodents, bird eggs, lizards, and even small snakes. The constrictors are usually entirely rodent and bird feeders. There are of course, exceptions, and some snakes, like the large (non-constricting) eastern indigo, _Drymarchon corais couperi_, which will eat nearly anything from toads and frogs to adult rats. Just as species of snakes vary in their diet, so do individuals within a species. Fortunately this is not very common. There are cases of a particular snake eating only a specific food animal. If a rat snake is not eating mice, it might be induced to feed on a different type of rodent or a bird. Many snakes in the wild are nocturnal, and sometimes a particular snake will only eat if fed at night, with all the lights out.

Always feed the rodent eaters dead food. Often, this will cause a problem with newly collected animals, but with a little time, your snake will usually learn to accept dead food. The reason for feeding dead food animals is to protect the snake from getting a serious bite from a rat or mouse. If the snake is feeding on insects, fish, or amphibians, the food can simply be placed in the cage with the snake. If there is more than one snake in the cage, you should observe the feeding so as to insure that one snake does not swallow the other snake along with its meal. If one or both snakes are nervous feeders, they should be separated during the feeding procedure.

Occasionally, one will come across a snake that will absolutely refuse to eat under any type of condition. Even though snakes can go for months without food, eventually a snake will starve to death. If a snake doesn't eat, it is most advisable to try to release it in an area where it is native to. Ideally, it should be released where it was collected. If the snake is not native to your area, you may have to force feed the snake--as a last resort. It is usually best to try to force a small food animal into the snake. Always use a blunt, rounded rod and be very careful not to injure the gums or mouth of the snake. Snakes can be sustained for long periods of time by force feeding, but this procedure will only forestall death for a short time in many cases.

Once your snake proves to be a "feeder", your next major concern is health. Snakes, like other animals, are susceptible to many types of diseases. Many of these diseases can be prevented with good husbandry practices.

A common ailment is mouth rot or canker mouth. This is a bacterial infection of the mouth and gums that generally starts from an injury to the snake's mouth. The first symptoms are sores in the mouth--especially along the edges of the gums. As the disease progresses a white cheesy-like substance is formed in the mouth and under the lips. The more advanced the infection, the more substance is formed. Although the actual mouth rot might not kill the snake, the animal will often refuse food, and is also very susceptible to secondary infections, which could be fatal.

Treatment in the early stages is very simple, and can be very successful. Many different drugs can be used, most of which have a sulphur base. Sul-met is a common medication that is often used. Treatment is by making a solution according to directions, and then irrigating the infected mouth two or three times a day. Also, add some medication to the drinking water. More advanced cases would need to be treated with anti-biotic injections. Dosage depends on the size of the snake and the concentration of the medication.

Respiratory infections are a major concern to anyone keeping snakes. They generally catch colds from being kept in drafts or at low temperatures for an extended length of time. The species of snake will determine its temperature requirements. A native North American snake will have a higher tolerance for cooler temperatures than a snake from the tropics.

The first symptom of a respiratory infection to look for would be bubbles in the mouth. As the cold advances, bubbles will be blown out the nose, and the mouth will become full of mucus. Untreated, a cold can develop into pneumonia and cause death. Treatment is easy and effective if given soon enough. First, keep the snake warm. A temperature between 80 to 88°F is recommended. The snake will need injections of an antibiotic, such as tetracycline or chlormyciten. The size of the snake will determine the dosage. The injections are usually given at daily intervals for several days. If you are in an area where there is a veterinarian that can treat exotic animals, he should be consulted before any treatment is used.

There are several other physiological diseases that snakes are susceptible to, but the above mentioned are the most common.

Knowing your snake and observing it daily will be a good way to keep track of its health. Any unusual activity could be an indication of an illness. Refusing to eat; regurgitation after eating; inactivity for long periods of time; or even difficulty in shedding its skin, are all signs that something may be wrong with your reptile. Keeping good records on the snake will be very beneficial in determining if the snake is acting normal or not. Write down when and what the snake eats, when it sheds (you may want to measure the skin each shedding to see if the snake has grown), when there is a stool, and if the animal regurgitates. The above are some of the basic routine procedures that should be kept track of in order for you to better determine the health of your snake.

The second major health problem you may have to deal with is parasites: both internal and external. There are many types of internal parasites which snakes are susceptible to. Only proper diagnosis of the type of parasite will determine the right medication for treatment. Determining the type of parasite involved is done by fecal analysis. If a snake is eating and losing weight, or if it regurgitates a day or so after eating, then there is reason to suspect worms. Worming of snakes is a simple procedure, but it must not be done unless you are using the proper medicine. Most worming medications are in liquid form, and they can be squirted down the snake's throat, or injected into a food animal. Any snake that is suspected of having parasites, or any new snake in your collection should have a fecal analysis done by a veterinarian.

External parasites are of two types: mites and ticks. Ticks are usually encountered on newly purchased or captured specimens. Removal is done by pulling them off with a pair of forceps. Try to get all of the tick out from under the skin.