Chapter 19

Bacon, misquoted Baedeker, on wine of Scanno Banca d'ltalia, its soi-disant director makes a fool of himself "Barone," an almost human dog Bathing in Tiber Baudelaire, C. Bears of Pescasseroli, rapid breeders Beds in England, neolithic features of Belgrave Square, its legendary partridges Bellegra, village Beloch, J. Bennet, Dr. J. H. Bentham, J. Berceau, mountain Bessel, F. W. Betifuli, ancient Scanno Bigio, marble Birds, their conservative habits Blackberries in Italy Blasphemies, as a pick-me-up Blind, Mathilde Blue, basic note of Italian landscape Board of Trade Labour Emergency Bureau, its lightning methods Boecklin, A. Borghese Gardens Bournemouth Bowles, Dr. R. Brachycephalism, menace to humanity Brahms, J., his inspiration Breil Brewster, H. B. Buckle, H. T. Building materials, of Florence, impart peculiar character to towns Bunbury, E. H., quoted Butter, French method of weighing, Italian regulations regarding

Cacume, mountain Calypso, her island Cammaiore Camosciara, mountain Campagna of Rome Campanella, headland Campoli Apennino Capaccio, G. C. Cap Martin (Mentone), a vulgarized spot Capasso, B. Capranica Capri Carbineers, good men and questionable institution Carrara Carrion crows, relatively gay fowls Casamari convent Casanova, J. Cascine Gardens Cats in Rome, their distressful condition Cement floors, a detestable invention Cemetery of Mentone of Rome; Scanno; Olevano Censorship Department, gratifying interview at Cervesato, A. Chamois Chaucer Children, good company neglected in war-time China, fatal morality of pre-Tartar period Ciminian forest Cineto Romano Circe, nymph Cisterna, a death-trap Civilization, its characteristic Civitella Coal-supply, a sore subject in Italy Coliseum, flora and fauna of Collepardo Conscience, national versus individual Consumption on Riviera; at Olevano Conterano, lake Corsanico Corsi, F. Crapolla, sea-cove Crinagoras, poet Critics, spleenfully criticized Cro-Magnon racev Cross, futility of bearing a

Darwin Deakin, botanist Dennis, G. Deserters at Valmontone Deslys, Gaby Dewlessness, a peculiarity of Italian townsmen Dialects of Italy Dictionary of National Biography Diodorus Siculus Dohrn, Dr. A. Donnorso, V. Doria, A. Dreams, recurrent; of flying Drowning accidents Drunkenness, not everybody's affair

Eagles Education Office, a "Sleepy Hollow" Edwards, Tam, naturalist Elba Elder tree, a venerable growth England, to be visited as a tourist English language, should remain in flux Englishmen, change in race-characters; contrasted with Italians; influence of new surroundings on Enthusiasm, unrewarded Eratosthenes Eugénie, Empress Experience, its uses

Faces, possibilities of improving Ferentino Ferento, ruined city Filangieri, di Candida, R. Flies, a curse Florence, its river; Cascine Gardens; pavements; local blasphemies; revisited Fontanella, village Food in war-time Football worth watching Fountains in Rome; responsible for shocking behaviour; in Villa Borghese France, its one irremediable drawback Frattura, village Frosinone, "Garibaldi" hotel; visited by Ramage Fumone Functionaries, social parasites

Gambling instinct, correlated with religion Gardeners, professional, imbeciles Gargiulli, O. Gautier, T. Germans, at Mentone; at Levanto; save oaks of Olevano; must follow footsteps Ghosts, mankind surrounded by, in; away with them Giannettasio, N. P.v Girtanner, Dr. A., beaver-specialist Giulio, a young reprobate Goethe, quoted Golden Ages of literature Gorbio Grant Duff, M. E. Greek words, surviving Grimaldi caves, incident at Grocery business, appeals to Frenchmen Gross feeders, beware of Grotta delle Palumbe Guardie regie, official loafers Gunther, Dr. A.

H., Mr., an ardent book-lover Hares in Italy Hebrews of military age, their enviable immunity from conscription Henderson, Dr., an old tippler Heredity, speculations on Hermits in Italy Hippocrates Hohentwiel, mountain Homer Horace Housemaid, a noteworthy Hutton, E.

Ierate, locality Imagination, needful to travel-literature, Imperialism in Italy Individual, contrasted with race Insomnia Intelligence, its two ingredients Isola Liri Italians, evolution of new type Italy, reasons for visiting; over-policed Ives, G.

J. O. M., a memorable type Jefferies, R. Johnson, S. Johnston-Lavis, H. J. Jovana, meadow

Keller, G. Kew Gardens King of Italy, protects bears Kingfisher, a wary old one Kneeling boy, statue Knop, Professor

Lachner, V. Ladbroke Grove, its enlightened children Landlady, of Mentone; the London variety; she of Viareggio; of Florence Lante, Villa La Croce, mountain La Rocca, village Lawrence, D. H. Laws, raison d'etre of Italian Leuthold, H. Levanto, arrival at; situation; company at hotel; the local magistrate; stroll to Monterosso Licenza Ligurians, their bad character Lizard, making a friend of; a disconsolate one Love affairs, Italian, how to conduct Lucian Lucretilis, mountain Lyme Regis

Macaroni, war-time substitutes; the right kind Maccarese, village Machinery, cult of; depraves Italian character Madonna della Neve, chapel Madonna di Tranquillo, wayside shrine Malaria Mandela Marbles Mathew, Rev. Maudsley, H. Maupassant Mazzella, S. Megara Mentone, recent transformation of; landscape; vegetation; produces dull schoolboys; prehistoric man of Merle blanc, a meritorious establishment Metaphysicians, atrophied poets Meyer, C. F. Meysenbug, Malwida von Michael Angelo; gets into trouble Migration of labourers, annual Mill, J. S. Militarism, the modern infáme Milvain Bridge Mineralogy Momio, village Monogamous habits, bad for songsters Mons Canutarius Montalto, cliff Monte-Carlo, its well-groomed flowers; lamentable episode at Casino Montecelio Monterosso Mortella, cliff Mortola, village Mosquitoes in Rome Moulinet Mummies, Peruvian Munitions Office, develops a craving for bankers Mure of Caldwell, traveller Muretta, mountain Museum, Kircher; delle Terme Music Mythopoeic faculty, example of

Neighbours, an over-rated class Nerano Newspaper reading, to be discouraged Nice Nietzsche, his blind spot Nightingales, too much of a good thing; cease from troubling Ninetta, an attractive maiden Nose, degeneration of

Odysseus at Alatri Office-hunters, should respect their betters Olevano, its nightingales; oak grove at; first English resident at Opi, town Ornithology Orte, town Orvinio Ouida, her writings and character

Paestum, roses of Pais, Prof. E. Palombaro Pantheon Patriotism, chilled Pavements, life on Peira Cava Perfumes, react on physiognomy Persico, G. B. Pescasseroli; its bears Peutinger Table Philosophers, contradistinguished from metaphysicians Piccadilly Goat Pietrasanta Pig, in distress Pines, at Levanto; at Viareggio Pisa in war-time Plaster-casts, how to dispose of Plato Pliny Pollius Felix Pontine Marshes Ponza island, megalithic ruin on Portovenere, marble Potter, Major Frederick, discovers Olevano Pottery, index of national taste Powder magazine, explosion of Preccia, mountain Prehistoric races, possible reasons for their extinction Press, the daily, its disastrous functions "Prison, The," a Socratic dialogue

Race ideals, contrasted with individual Ramage, Craufurd Tait, a centrifugal Scotsman, his book and umbrella; mania for hurrying; other travels of; compared with Waterton; on Italian country life; gets drunk; makes formal profession of sobriety; his tolerance; sensitive to female charms; still hustling; his humanistic outlook; little failings; other publications; zest for knowledge; at Licenza Rat-hunts Ravens, their conjugal fidelity Reading, to be done with reverence Recomone, inlet Red colour, unfashionable in Italy; in favour with other races Rhetoric, necessary to success in courtship Rhodian marble Ripa, a liquid poison Rivers, Italian Riviera, French, its inanity; typical visitors to; lack of native genius Roccaraso Rojate Rolfe, Neville Romanelli, painter Romans and British, their world dominion; unimaginative people Rome, changed aspect of railway station; protestant cemetery; explosion near; its fountains; tramcar nuisance; shadelessness; disadvantages of site; evening breeze; neglected cats; bad food; its building stone; unpleasant experience at; dearth of apartments Rubinstein, A.

Sagittario, stream Saint Domenico Saint-Jacques, chemin de Saint-Louis, bridge Saint Martin, his cave Saint Michael, hermitage Salatino, Dr. Salis-Marschlins, U. von San Costanzo, mountain and chapel San Remo San Rossore Sant' Egidio, hermitage Sant' Elia, farm Saracinesca, village Scalambra, mountain Scanno, cemetery at; memories of; revisited Schadona pass Scheffel, V. von Schopenhauer; anticipates "recognition marks" Scolastica, Saint Seaton Sebastiani, A. Segni Self-indulgence, a debased expression Sergi, Prof. G. Serpentaro, oak grove Serpents, with ears; human hatred of Serrano, village Serravezza Shelley, an evangelist; at Viareggio; recommends caverns to his readers, but lives comfortably himself Sicilians Siena, in winter; a Florentine's opinion of Sirena, survival of name Siren islets (Galli); ruin on Sirocco in Rome Sitting still, the true traveller's gift Sleep, its sacred nature Smollett Snakes Snow, Dr. H. Sora Soracte, mountain Soriano; its pleasant tavern Sospel Spezia Spy-mania in Italy Stabiae (Castellamare) Statius Strabo Strega liqueur, horribly adulterated; how to stop the scandal Subiaco, strawberries at Sunburn, pretty effects of Surrentum Swinburne, H. Switzerland, its manifold beauties Symonds, J. A.

Taxidermy, study of Telephone, an abomination Termini, village Terrata, mountain Theophrastus Tiber Tiryns, citadel Torco, village Trafalgar Square, its fauna Trajan's Forum Tramcars, an abomination Tree-creeper, bird Trevi Fountain Trifles, importance of Truth-telling, a matter of longitude; not in vogue to-day Tuscan speech, its peculiar savour

Urquehart, D.

Valiante, Marquis Valmontone; its upper terrace; capture of a deserter at, Pergola, tavern Velino, mountain Velletri Venice Ventimiglia, wine of Verde antico, marble Veroli Via Appia; Flaminia; Labiena; Nomentana Viareggio, an objectionable place; its Vittoria hotel; pine woods Victorians, their perverse sense of duty Villalago Villetta Barrea Viterbo Voss, R.

Wallace, A. R. Walpole, Horace War, the present, local opinions concerning; repercussion on thoughtful non-combatants; effects on agriculture War Office, pandemonium; confuses Turkish and Russian Waterton, C., a freak Whistling, denotes mental vacuity White, colour, unpopular in South Italy Will-o'-the-wisp Wine, red and black Wolf, at Mentone; at Frattura Wryneck, bird

Young, J. Youth, should be temperate Yucca, plant

Zagarola "Zone of defense," drawbacks of Zurich, its attractions

* * * * * * * * * * *

1. There exists a fine one, but you must go to San Remo to see it.

2. Discovered, according to Corsi, in 1547, and not to be confounded with the yet more beautiful black and yellow Rhodian marble of the ancients.

3. See North American Review, September, 1913. Ramage's Calabrian tour of 1828, by the way, was an extremely risky undertaking. The few travellers who then penetrated into this country kept to the main roads and never moved without a military escort. One of them actually hired a brigand as a protection.

4. Sometimes at this season there is not the smallest trickle in the stream-bed--mere disconnected pools to show where the river was, and will be. Then you may walk across it, even in Florence. Grant Duff says he has seen the Arno "blue." So have I: a hepatic blue.

5. It afterwards passed into the hands of the German Crown Prince.

6. He was afterwards imprisoned for this, and has since died.

7. I am told the Florentines at no period adopted the method of the Parisians, and that I am also wrong in saying that the older monuments are in better condition than the new ones. We live and learn.

8. The late Henry Maudsley. He says, in one of his letters, "... I am writing without due consideration of the interesting point. But this possible explanation occurs to me: children are active motor machines, always restless and moving when not asleep. When asleep, the motor tendencies, being not quite passive, translate themselves into the dreaming consciousness of motion, pleasant or painful, according to bodily states pleasing or disturbing. As the muscles are almost passive in sleep, the outlet is into dreaming activity--into dreams of flying when bodily states are pleasant, into falling down precipices, etc., when they are out of sorts. This is quite a hasty reflection...."

9. "The Prison. A Dialogue." By H. B. Brewster. (Williams and Norgate, 1891.)

10. Parkstone, Dorset. July 19, 1894. "Many thanks for your reference to Schopenhauer's remarks on Recognition Marks, which I thought I was the first to fully point out. It is a most interesting anticipation. I do not read German, but from what I have heard of his works he was the last man I should have expected to make such an acute suggestion in Natural History."

11. Written during the U-boat scare and food-restrictions.

12. Fecit! He poisoned himself with hydrocyanic acid on the 4th November, 1920.

13. This is the same gentleman who informs us, on page 166, "I have lived, however, very temperately, avoiding much wine." We learn from the Dictionary of National Biography that he was born in 1803; he must therefore have been twenty-five years old when he bemused the coastguard. Only twenty-five; and already at this stage. We are further told that he was tutor to somebody's son. Unhappy child!

14. Not all of them are true thistles. Abbadé's Guide to the Abruzzi (1903) enumerates 1476 plants from this region.

15. Manifestly unfair, all this. For the rest, the critic, in speaking of a plot, may have meant what young ladies call by that name--a love intrigue, in which case he is to be blamed solely for misuse of a good word. I am consoled by the New York Dial calling my plot "rightly filmy." Nobody could have expressed it better.

16. Three spring months, at Florence, had been spent in making a scientific collection of local imprecations--abusive, vituperative or profane expletives; swear-words, in short--enriched with elaborate commentary. I would gladly print this little study in folk-lore as an appendix to the present volume, were it fit for publication.

17. Since this was written, the gospel of imperialism has made considerable progress in the peninsula.

18. This is a survival of the Greek kakkabos. Gargiuli and others have garnered Hellenic derivations among the place-names here, and to their list may be added that of the rock on which stood the villa of Pollius Felix; it is now known as Punta Calcarella, but used to be called Petrapoli; pure Greek: Pollio's rock. There is still a mine of such material to be exploited by all who care to study the vernacular. The giant euphorbia, for instance, common on these hills, is locally known as "totomaglie"; pure Greek again: tithymalos.

19. Query: whether there be no connection between brachycephalism and this modern deification of machinery?

20. Robert L. Bowles, M.D. "Sunburn on the Alps" (Alpine Journal, November, 1888) and "The Influence of Light on the Skin" (British Journal of Dermatology, No. 105, Vol. 9).

21. It has now been cleaned--with inevitable results.

22. Maupassant himself was partial to scents. See his valet's diary.

23. Since this was written (1917) the condition of these beasts has improved. Somebody now feeds them--which could hardly have been expected during those stressful times of war, when bread barely sufficed for the human population. They are also fewer in numbers. Their owners, I fancy, can afford to keep them at home once more.

24. This is my last (7 July, 1894) and somewhat mysterious letter from the old fellow. "The question you ask is one of great ornithological importance and I believe has never been worked out, but I am absolutely afraid to ask any questions in the British Museum, as they jump at an idea and cut the ground from under the original man's feet. This I regret to say is my experience. I have been asked what does it matter who makes the discovery? I reply, 'Render unto Caesar, etc.' If you are going to work it out, keep it dark. The British Museum have not the necessary specimens--in this country I believe it is not known how the change takes place. I tried some years ago to work it out with live specimens, but failed because I could not get young birds. Now in answer to your question, my belief is that the young bird moults into the winter plumages direct and that this is changed into the full plumage in spring either by a spring moult or by a shedding of the tips of the feathers. This is private because it is theoretical, and for your private use to verify...."

Of the Finland seal, by the way, Dr. Günther wrote: "The skin differs in nothing from that of Phoca foetida. In the skull I observe that the nasal bones are conspicuously narrower than in typical specimens from the northern coasts. There is also a remarkable thinness of bone, a want of osseous substance; but it is impossible to say whether this is due to altered physical conditions or should be accounted for by the youth of the specimen, or whether it is an individual peculiarity."

25. Winter 1882-1883; possibly later.

26. The centre of this usage, so far as Europe is concerned, seems to have been the Caucasus.

27. I have been there since, and vainly endeavoured to track the legend to its lair. Its only possible foundation is that I possessed the ordinary tourists' map of the district.

28. Add to all the other varieties, now, the countless legions of the guardie regie, which threaten to absorb the entire youth of Italy. At this moment there is a distressing dearth of housing accommodation all over the peninsula; in Rome alone, they say, apartments are needed for 10,000 practically homeless persons, and a mathematician may calculate the number of houses required to contain them. How shall they ever be built, if all the potential builders are loafing about in uniforms at the public expense?

29. Some of these Beautiful Thoughts went through more than one edition.

30. From an old article: "I was pleased to observe on Ponza the relics of a great pre-Roman civilization. Above the town, where the cemetery now stands, is a likely site for a citadel, and on examining it from the sea I noticed, sure enough, a few blocks of prehistoric structure of the so-called Cyclopean type underneath a corner of the cemetery wall. There is a portion in better preservation between the 'Baths of Pilate' and the harbour, where a little path winds up from the sea. The blocks are joined without mortar, and some of them are over a metre in length. This megalithic wall may be taken to be contemporaneous with similar works of defence found in various parts of Italy, but I believe its existence on Ponza has not yet been recorded. Livy says that Volscians inhabited the island till they were supplanted by the Romans, and a tradition preserved by Strabo and Virgil locates here the palace of the enchantress Circe, who transformed the companions of Ulysses into bristly swine...." Some one may have anticipated me here again, as did Salis-Marschlins in the eighteenth century with those roses of Passtum whose disappearance Ramage, like every one else, laments--those roses which I thought I was the first to re-discover. They grow on the spot in considerable quantities, though one needs good eyes to see them. They are not flourishing as of yore, being dwarfs not more than a few inches in height. One which I carried away and kept three years in a pot and six more in the earth grew to a length of about sixteen feet, and is probably alive at this moment, I never saw a flower.

31. For the abject condition of these slaves (such they are) see Chapter VII of The Roman Campagna by Arnaldo Cervesato.

32. Written in 1917.

33. D.H. Lawrence: Twilight in Italy.

34. The title Alone strikes me, on reflection, as rather an inapt one for this volume. Let it stand!