Part 1

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ALLIED COOKERY

British French Italian Belgian Russian

Arranged by

GRACE CLERGUE HARRISON and GERTRUDE CLERGUE

_To Aid the War Sufferers in the Devastated Districts of France_

Introduction by Hon. Raoul Dandurand Commandeur de la Légion d'Honneur

Prefaced by Stephen Leacock and Ella Wheeler Wilcox

G. P. Putnam's Sons New York and London The Knickerbocker Press 1916

Copyright, 1916 by Grace Clergue Harrison

The Knickerbocker Press, New York

THE PURPOSE

of this little book is to procure funds in aid of the farmers in that part of France which was devastated by the invasion of the German armies and subsequently regained by the French.

This region, in part, one of the most fertile in France, and which sustained hundreds of thousands of inhabitants engaged in agricultural pursuits, has been left desolate, with all buildings destroyed and all farming implements, cattle, and farm products taken off by the invaders for military uses.

Its old men, women, and children, who survived the slaughter of invasion, are now undertaking the labour of restoring their farms. To help in the supply of seeds, farm implements, and other simple but essential means of enabling these suffering people to regain by their own efforts the necessaries of life, the compilers offer to the public this book on Cookery.

Its proceeds will be distributed by Le Secours National, of France, whose effective organization assures its best and most helpful disposition.

An acknowledgment must be made for the kind assistance of friends in securing desirable recipes. There are some that will be novel to many households, and all of them will give satisfaction when exactly followed.

The compilers will gladly answer requests for information from any one wishing further to support this cause.

MRS. WM. LYNDE HARRISON, Milestone House, Branford, Conn.

MISS GERTRUDE CLERGUE, 597 Sherbrooke Street West, Montreal.

CONTENTS

PAGE INTRODUCTION. _Hon. R. Dandurand_ 5 ALLIED FOOD. _Stephen Leacock_ 8 FOREWORD. _Ella Wheeler Wilcox_ 12 CHARLOTTE DE POMMES. _Elise Jusserand_ 14

SOUPS Bouillabaisse 15 Borcht 16 Mushroom Soup 17 Serbian Chicken Soup 17 Vegetable Soup 18 Lettuce Soup 19 Pot-au-Feu 19 Onion Soup 20 Soldiers' Soup 21 Stschi 21 Buraki 22 Lentil Soup 22 Black Bean Soup 23 Fish Chowder 23

FISH Roast Oysters 24 Raie au Beurre Noir 24 Salmon Tidnish 25 Aubergine Aux Crevettes 25 Lobster Beaugency 26 Scallops en Brochette 26 Filet of Sole Florentine 26 Salmon Teriyaki 27 Filet of Sole Marguery 28 Codfish with Green Peppers 28 Herring Roes, Baked 29 Creamed Fish 30 Mousseline of Fish 30 Haddock Mobile 31 Kedgaree 31 Pickled Salmon 31

MEATS AND ENTRÉES Russian Pirog Kulbak 33 Carbonade Flamande 33 Blanquette of Veal 34 Blanquette of Chicken 35 Stracotto 35 Duck St. Albans 36 Boned Turkey 37 Chicken and Cabbage 37 Leg-of-Mutton Pie 38 Russian Steaks 38 Another Russian Method for Beef-Steaks 39 Stewed Kidneys 39 Chicken 40 Baked Ham 40 Rillettes de Tours 41 Rice and Mutton 42 Baked Eggs 42 Tripe 42 Tripe, Italian 43 Timbale of Partridges 44 Stewed Hare 44 Indian Pilau 46 Stuffed Beef Steaks 47 Podvarak 47 Ribs of Pork en Casserole 48 Salmis de Lapin 48 Sheep's Head 49 Macaroni Pie 50 Kidney and Mushrooms 51

CURRIES Indian Curry 52 Fricassee of Chicken 52 A Simpler Indian Curry 53 Another Curry Sauce 54

PASTES, CHEESE, ETC. Macaroni with Cheese 56 Macaroni 56 Polenta with Cheese 57 Lentil Croquettes 57 Risotto 58 Risotto Milanaise 58 Ravioli 59 Egg Coquilles, with Spinach 60 Pirog of Mushrooms 60 Paste for Russian Pirog 60 Eggs Romanoff 61 Oeufs Pochés Ivanhoe 61 Cheese Puffs 61 Moskva Cheesecakes 62 Cheese Fritters 62 Cheese Pudding 63 Chicory or Endive 63 Stewed Cos Lettuces 63 Asparagus 64 Celery Croquettes 65 Ragoût of Celery 66 Stuffed Onions 67 Onions, Venetian Style 67 Fried Pumpkin or Squash 68 Cucumbers 68 Sarma 69 Polenta Pasticciata 70 Fried Bread with Raisins 71 Polenta Croquettes 72 Rice with Mushrooms 72 Timbales of Bread with Parmesan Sauce 73

SAUCES Cheese Sauce 74 Tomato Sauce 74 Another Tomato Sauce 74 Mustard Sauce 75 A Meat Sauce 75 Another Meat Sauce 76 Lombarda Sauce 76 Horse-Radish Sauce 77 Gnocchi di Semolina 77

SALADS Italian Salad 79 Lettuce Salad 79 Sandwich Dressing 79 Salad Dressing 80 Cheese Dressing 80

VEGETABLES Potato Cakes 81 Petits Pois 81 String Beans 81 Red Cabbage 82 Cabbage with Cheese Sauce 82 Glazed Onions 83 Spinach Soufflé 83

PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC. French Pancakes 84 Crepes Suzette 84 Sauce for Crepes Suzette 84 Another Suzette Pancake 85 Kisel 85 Carrot Pudding 86 Old English Plum Pudding 86 Banana Trifle 87 Cream Tart 87 Chocolate Pudding 88 Fried Apples 89 Orange Pudding 89 Oat Cakes 90 Tea-Cakes 91 Tea Pancakes 91 Canadian War Cake 92 Serbian Cake 92 Ravioli Dolce 93 Chestnuts 93 Gnocchi of Milk 94 Almond Pudding 94 Chestnut Fritters 95 Chestnut Cream 95 Tapioca Pudding 96 Ginger Ice-Cream 97 Almond Cake 97 Queen Cakes 98 Francescas 98 Oat Cakes 98 Gateau Polonais 99 Anise Cakes 99 Gordon Highlander Gingerbread 100 Scotch Short Bread 100 Cramique 100 Gaufres 101 Pets de Nonne 101 Brioche de la Lune 102 Victoria Scones 103 Nut Bread 103 Bran Muffins 103 Scotch Scones 104 Blinni 104 Baked Hominy 104 Marrons Glacés 105 Small Cucumber Pickles 105 Preserved Strawberries 106 Rhubarb Jelly 107 Tomato Soup for Canning 107 Budo Cup 108

INTRODUCTION

COMITÉ FRANCE-AMÉRIQUE (Section Canadienne) Chambre-31, Edifice "Duluth" Montréal, March 2, 1916.

MRS. WM. LYNDE HARRISON, MISS G. CLERGUE.

Mesdames:

Vous désirez faire quelque chose pour venir en aide aux victimes de la guerre en France et, dans ce but, vous publiez un livre utile dont vous faites tous les frais d'impression de manière à ce que le produit total de la vente soit versé au Comité de Secours National de Paris.

Le but que vous vous proposez est fort louable car les besoins sont grands au pays de France. On a fait dernièrement le recensement des réfugiés belges et français chassés de leurs demeures et recueillis dans les diverses communes de France. Ils sont plus de 900,000 et les allemands out renvoyé en France par la voie de la Suisse plus de 100,000 prisonniers--vieillards, femmes et enfants--qu'ils ne voulaient plus nourrir et qui out été rendus, dénués de tout, à la charité publique. Tous ces malheureux doivent être vêtus de la tête aux pieds. Les Etats-Unis et le Canada out heureusement fait leur part pour soulager cette grande infortune, grâce aux appels réitérés de l'American Relief Clearing House de Paris et de New-York et des divers comités canadiens du Secours National de Paris, organisés par le Comité France-Amérique.

Les hôpitaux français réclament aussi, à bon droit, notre sollicitude, car c'est la France qui supporte le plus fort de l'assaut teuton sur la frontière de l'Ouest et ses blessés doivent dépasser le demi million. Devant cette grande détresse la Croix-Rouge américaine et la Croix-Rouge canadienne ne sont pas demeurées indifférentes et des milliers de caisses out été envoyées aux hôpitaux français. Malheureusement la liste des calamités qui out fondu sur la France ne s'arrête pas là: tout le territore envahi par les troupes allemandes, dont elles out été chassées, qui va de la Marne à l'Aisne, et que couvraient des centaines de villages prospéres dans une des régions les plus fertiles et les plus riches de la France, a été ravagé par les troupes ennemies. Les propriétaires de ces milliers de fermes--vieillards, femmes et enfants--sont revenus à leurs foyers détruits pour relever leurs maisons et faire produire à la terre la nourriture dont ils ont besoin. Ils ont tout perdu: maisons, meubles, vêtements, animaux, instruments aratoires. Ce sont ces derniers qui attirent particulièrement votre commisération. En face de cette misère effroyable tous les coeurs s'émeuvent et chacun veut apporter son aide à ces braves gens. Vous donnez au public une occasion facile et agréable de faire ce geste en mettant à sa portée un livre intéressant dont le prix ira soulager les nobles victimes de la guerre en France.

Je vous souhaite une forte recette. Veuillez agréer, mesdames, avec mes félicitations, l'expression de mes sentiments distingués.

_Président du Comité France-Amérique Section Canadienne._

ALLIED FOOD

As soon as I heard of the proposed plan of this book I became positively frantic to co-operate in it. The idea of a cookery book which should contain Allied Recipes and Allied Recipes only, struck me at once as one of the finest ideas of the day.

For myself I have felt for some time past that the time is gone, and gone for ever, when I can eat a German Pretzel or a Wiener Schnitzel.

It gives me nothing but remorse to remember that there were days when I tolerated, I may even say I enjoyed, Hungarian Goulash. I could not eat it now. As for Bulgarian Boosh or Turkish Tch'kk, the mere names of them make me ill.

For me, for the rest of my life, it must be Allied Food or no food at all. One may judge, therefore, with what delight I received the news of this patriotic enterprise. I at once telegraphed to the editors the following words:

"Am willing to place at your service without charge entire knowledge of cookery. Forty-six years' practical experience."

To this telegram I received no reply. I am aware that there is, even in cooking circles, a certain amount of professional jealousy. It may be that I had overpassed the line of good taste in offering my entire knowledge. I should have only offered part of it.

I therefore resolved that instead of writing the whole book as I had at first intended, I would content myself with sending to the editors, a certain number of selected recipes of a kind calculated to put the book in a class all by itself.

I sent, in all, fifty recipes. I regret to say that after looking over the pages of the book with the greatest care, and after looking also on the back of them, I do not find my recipes included in it. The obvious conclusion is that while this book was in the press my recipes were stolen out of it.

The various dishes that I had selected were of so distinctive a character and the art involved in their preparation so entirely _recherché_ that it seems a pity that they should be altogether lost. They contained a certain _je ne sais quoi_ which would have marked them out as emphatically the perquisite of the few. To say that they were dishes for a king is to understate the fact.

It is therefore merely in the public interest and from no sense of personal vanity that I reproduce the substance of one or two of them in this preface. There was a whole section, for example, on Eggs, which I am extremely loath to lose. It showed how by holding an egg down under boiling water till it is exhausted, it may be first cooked and then be passed under a flat iron until it becomes an Egg Pancake. It may be then given a thin coat of varnish and served in a railway restaurant for years and years.

I had also an excellent recipe for Rum Omelette. It read: "Take a dipper full of rum and insert an omelette in it. Serve anywhere in Ontario." I am convinced that this recipe alone would have been worth its weight in rum.

But it would be childish of me to lay too much stress on my own personal disappointment or regret. When I realized what had happened I felt at once that my co-operation in this book must take some other form. I therefore sent to the editors a second telegram which read:

"Am willing to eat free of charge all dishes contained in volume."

This offer was immediately accepted, and I am happy to assure readers of this book that I have eaten each and every one of the preparations in the pages that follow. To prevent all doubt I make this statement under oath. I had intended to make merely an honest statement of the fact but my friends tell me that a statement under oath is better in such a case than a mere honest statement.

Stephen Leacock

FOREWORD

God what a world! if men in street and mart Felt that same impulse of the human heart Which makes them in the hour of flame and flood Rise to the meaning of true Brotherhood!

THE heart of the world throbs with sympathy for the suffering women and children in the war-devastated countries of Europe. He who does not long to be a helper in this hour of vast need and unprecedented anguish must be made of something more adamant than stone. America owes a large debt to the culinary artists of Europe. Without their originality and finished skill, in the creation of savory dishes for the table, the art of entertaining in our land could never have attained its present perfection.

Ever ready to incorporate in her own methods whatever other countries had to offer as improvements, America has received from the epicurean chefs of Europe conspicuous benefits. In every menu from coast to coast, these facts make themselves evident. It is then fitting, that at this crucial hour, we repay something of the debt we owe by making this little cooking manual an instant and decided success, knowing the proceeds from its sale will relieve such distress as we in our sheltered homes can scarcely picture by the greatest effort of imagination.

Our souls should be vessels receiving The waters of love for relieving The sorrows of men. For here lies the pleasure of living: In taking God's bounties and giving The gifts back again. Ella Wheeler Wilcox

CHARLOTTE DE POMMES

Prendre des pommes reinettes épépinées, émincées et sautées au beurre avec quelques pincées du sucre et une demi-gousse de vanille.

De cette fondue de pommes qui ne doit pas être trop cuite, on garnit un moule à charlotte dont les parois auront été revêtues d'étroites tranches de mie de pain trempées dans du beurre épuré et saupoudré de sucre.

Ces tranches de pain doivent être placées dans le moule, se chevauchant, les unes sur les autres.

Garnir le fond du moule d'une abaisse de pain de mie également beurrée et saupoudrée de sucre.

Recouvrir la charlotte d'une abaisse prise dans la croûte du pain de mie afin de la protéger contre l'action trop vive du calorique.

Faire cuire la charlotte au four pendant 35 ou 40 minutes; la laisser reposer pendant quelques minutes à l'étuve avant de la démouler, et la servir avec une sauce à l'abricot, parfumée au Kirsch.

Elise Jusserand

_Ambassade de France aux Etats-Unis._ March 2, 1916.

Allied Cookery

Soups

BOUILLABAISSE

(The national dish of Marseille)

Indeed, a rich and savory stew 'tis; And true philosophers, methinks, Who love all sorts of natural beauties, Should love good victuals and good drinks. And Cordelier or Benedictine Might gladly, sure, his lot embrace, Nor find a fast day too afflicting, Which served him up a Bouillabaisse. THACKERAY.

Cut off the best parts of 3 medium-sized flounders and 6 butterfish and put them aside; the remaining parts of the fish--skin, bones, heads, etc.--boil in water 20 minutes; this should make 1 quart of fish stock when strained.

Put 3 tablespoons of olive oil in stew-pan, add 4 chopped onions, 3 cloves of chopped garlic, a few sprigs of parsley, 1 bayleaf, 1/4 teaspoon fennel, 1/4 teaspoon saffron, 1/2 teaspoon whole black pepper ground, salt, fry until golden brown. Then add 3 or 4 tomatoes and a pimento, 1/3 quart of white wine, 2/3 quart of water, boil 15 minutes. Strain and return to the kettle; add the flounder and butterfish in pieces as large as possible, 1/2 lb. of codfish tongues, 1 lb. of eel; boil 10 minutes, add the fish stock, 1 lb. of scallops, boil 10 more minutes. Rub together 1 oz. of flour and 1 oz. of butter; drop this in the soup in little balls five minutes before serving. Then put in 1/2 lb. of shrimps and 1 large boiled lobster cut in large pieces. Rub with garlic some round slices of bread and serve the Bouillabaisse on them.

This will serve 12 persons.

One is not able to obtain here the varieties of fish of the Midi, but the above will make an excellent substitute.

BORCHT

(Russian)

Make a clear, light-coloured, highly seasoned stock of beef and veal or of chicken. Strain and remove all fat. A Russian gourmet will say that really good Borcht should be made with 2 ducks and a chicken in the stock. Cut up some red beets and boil them in the stock; about 4 large beets to 8 cups of stock. When the beets are cooked squeeze in enough lemon-juice to give it a slightly acid flavour, then clear by stirring in the whipped white of an egg and bringing it to the boiling point. Strain carefully. Serve in cups with a spoonful of sour cream. If the colour fails to be bright red, a few drops of vegetable colouring may be added.

MUSHROOM SOUP

(French)

Three-quarters lb. of fresh mushrooms, 1 cup of water, 2 tablespoons of butter, 2 tablespoons of flour, 4 cups of scalded milk, 1/2 cup of cream, a few gratings of nutmeg, salt, and pepper.

Put the mushrooms in a stew-pan with 1 tablespoon of butter, a few gratings of nutmeg, salt, and pepper, and 1 cup of water; cook over a good fire 20 minutes, then pass through a coarse sieve. Cream 1 tablespoon of butter with 2 tablespoons of flour, add this to 4 cups of scalded milk. When this thickens to a thin cream, add the mushrooms; just before serving add 1/2 cup of cream.

SERBIAN CHICKEN SOUP

Cut a fowl in four or five pieces. Put in a kettle with about one quart of water to each pound of fowl. When half cooked add salt and a carrot, parsnip, some celery and parsley, an onion, and a few whole black peppers.

In a separate pan put a tablespoon of lard and 1/2 tablespoon of flour. Stir this until it is brown and add some paprika, according to taste. Add this to the soup. Let it boil a few minutes. Just before serving the soup stir in well the yolk of an egg beaten with three tablespoons of cream.

VEGETABLE SOUP

(Minestrone alla Milanese)

One-half quart of stock, 2 slices of lean pork, or a ham bone; 2 tomatoes, fresh or canned; 1 cup of rice, 2 tablespoons of dried beans, 1 tablespoon of peas, fresh or canned; 2 onions.