Part 21

[Footnote 3: The scheme thus proposed has been abandoned. The temporary Hall has been taken down and seven houses with shops erected on the site, also a Temperance Hall. The Shaftesbury Club and Institute, Eversleigh House, Lavender Hill, was opened on Saturday, Feb. 2nd, 1878, at 3 o'clock p.m. Previously a movement had been in progress to establish a Club and Institute for the benefit of those large classes of working men who live upon the Shaftesbury Park Estate, and in the crowded neighbourhoods in the immediate vicinity. Nothing of the kind was in existence, and, as a consequence, there was no efficient corrective to the growing evils of intemperance and wasted time among these classes of the people. The movement met with a great and increasing support from the working men themselves, and the Provisional Committee appointed has been busily engaged in the work of organising the Club. The objects of the Club and Institute are thus stated in the Draft Rules:--

"To afford to its members the means of social intercourse, mutual helpfulness, mental and moral improvement, industrial welfare, and rational recreation. The Club shall not identify itself with any political, social, or theological party. As funds permit, there shall be provided:--Library and Reading Rooms, supplied with Books, Periodicals, and Newspapers; Educational Classes; Conversation, Refreshment, and Smoking Rooms, in which various games may be played; Billiard and Bagatelle Rooms; Popular Lectures and Entertainments; Rooms for the Meetings of Benefit and Friendly Societies." Subscription 1s. a month 2s. 6d. a quarter, 10s. a year. Arthur George Thorne, Hon. Secretary. Mr. W. Swindlehurst was the Secretary to the Estate Company. The purchase of the Freehold Land (it is said) cost the Estate Company £28,000. Recently the house rents on the Estate have been raised.

The entrance to Shaftesbury Hall is in Ashbury Road.]

[Footnote 4: The following Newspapers, which are published weekly, contain (Battersea) Local Intelligence and District Board News. "The South London Press," 2d. "Battersea and Wandsworth District Times," 1d. "Mid-Surrey Gazette," 1d. "The Clapham Observer," 1d. "The South Western Star," 1d.]

No Beer-shop, Inn or Tavern is erected on the Estate but it must not be inferred from this, that all the inhabitants are Total Abstainers. However the ostensible and important objects of the Estate Company are to help the Working Classes to become owners of the House they occupy; to raise their position in the social scale; and to spread a moral influence over their class, tending to foster habits of Industry, Sobriety and Frugality. Obedience to moral and physical laws, the right and proper use of material appliances for sanitary purposes, have a tendency to prolong human life and to make life more enjoyable, and the Supreme Governor of the Universe hath so ordained that it should be so. According to the metropolitan average, the deaths should have been 194, but they only numbered 100. In 1877 the births on the Shaftesbury Park Estate were 284. Connected with the Estate is a Volunteer Rifle Corps known as the "26th Surrey." Mr. Samuel E. Platt, Secretary to the Estate Company; Mr. J. V. Muller, Manager. Office, 221, Eversleigh Road. The Missionary who visits in this district is Mr. Vost, who holds meetings in the Temperance Hall, Elsley Road.

Eastward of the Shaftesbury Park Estate is situated Beaufoy's Chemical Works. Entrance, Lavender Hill. Mr. Matthew Cannon, Manager.

This site was formerly a brickfield. When Mr. Henry Beaufoy purchased the land comprising some 17 acres he named it "Pays Bas," signifying in French a _low country_. Recently 7 acres have been let on Lease of 99 years for building purposes, it is proposed to erect thereon 230 houses. In this locality and that of Latchmere it is said the bricks were made for the construction of Chelsea Hospital.

THE METROPOLITAN ARTIZANS AND LABOURERS DWELLINGS ASSOCIATION have just erected three blocks of houses in the Battersea Park Road, designed by Charles Barry, Esq., President of the British Institute of Architects. Accommodation in A Block for 98 families with 3 and 4 rooms each. There are two B Blocks, 45 families in a block, having accommodation for 90 families with one or two rooms each for labourers. The whole of the front window-frames facing the main road are glazed with Plate Glass. Between the pathway and the Blocks is erected an iron palisade and some evergreens have been planted within the enclosure. There are underground Laundries at the north end of the Blocks with all necessary appliances. The B Blocks have three tiers of balconies supported by iron columns communicating with the dwellings on the upper storeys. The roofs are tiled by the Broomhall Tile Company. The Builders, are Messrs. Downs & Co., Southwark. Major-General Scott, Secretary, office, 9, Victoria Road, Westminster Abbey. It is intended to erect more Blocks on the land adjoining. Chairman, John Walter, Esq.

The buildings are intended as models of the dwellings for Artizans and Labourers, to replace the habitations condemned in various parts of the Metropolis under the Act of 1875. They are built in flats as nearly fire-proof as may be. Each tenement in the Artizans dwellings and each block of four rooms for those of the labourers are entirely separated from others by an open space, each tenement has a constant supply of fresh water, the use of a wash-house and a coal bunker, a dust shoot, and generally great care has been taken to insure to the tenants all the advantages of the best known sanitary appliances. Within the outer door which opens on to a general staircase, are all the conveniences except the wash-houses which are detached from the building. These tenements contain in most cases, three rooms, viz.: kitchen, bed-room, and sitting-room. The labourers blocks are so divided that they can be let singly, or in twos, threes, or fours. The dwellings were formally opened on Saturday Afternoon, June 23rd, 1877, by the Earl of Beaconsfield. The ceremony was graced by a select company, among whom were in addition to the Prime Minister, the Earl and Countess of Rosslyn, the Countess of Scarborough, the Earl and Countess Stanhope, the Lord Chancellor and Lady Cairns, Lady E. Drummond, the Marquis of Bristol, the Earl of Ilchester, the Earl of Verulam, the Bishop of Winchester, the Right Hon. R. A. Cross, M.P., Mrs. and Miss Walter, Mr. W. H. Smith, M.P., Mr. Roebuck, M.P., Mr. Montague Corrie, Mr. Algernon Turner, Major-General H. Y. D. Scott, Manager of the Association, and numerous Members of Parliament. Her Majesty who takes a deep interest in this movement for the improvement of the dwellings of her people, commanded Earl Beaconsfield to express Her wish that Her name may be associated with this institution and that in future these buildings will be called the Victoria Dwellings for Artizans.

On the North side of Battersea Park Road is the site for Messrs. Spiers and Pond's New Steam Laundry, contiguous to which (Propert's) Blacking Manufactory is now built. Mr George Ashby Lean, Architect; Mr. Waters, Builder, The Common, Ealing.

Up the centre of the meadow a new road is to be made 50 feet wide. About forty years ago this ground yielded as fine a crop of wheat as any in England. At that time certain Notice Boards were erected with the words "_Any person found plucking an ear of Corn will be fined one shilling._" An old parishioner, who is still living, told the writer that he had been fined three shillings because he had picked up three ears of corn which another man had thrown away.

BATTERSEA (LATCHMERE, formerly called Lechmore) ALLOTMENTS cover an area of 16¼ acres, and are let to the industrial poor of the parish to encourage habits of industry, the land was applied to the present purpose in the year 1835. Originally there were 74 allotments now there are 156. The Allotments let at 3/- a plot, each allotment being divided into 10 plots. Application must be made to the Churchwardens, William Evill and Joseph William Hiscox, Esqrs.

Pleasantly situated between the Albert and Bridge Roads, Battersea Park Road, is Dove Dale Place, founded by the late Mrs. Lightfoot of Balham, (Widow of the late Dr. Lightfoot) for persons in reduced circumstances professing godliness, whether in connection with the Church of England or members of other Christian Churches having small yearly private incomes of their own. There are twelve accommodations of two small rooms each, there are two four-room cottages one at each end with gardens. In the middle of the centre block is a Chapel and over the window is the representation of a Dove bearing an Olive Branch. There are some pecuniary advantages connected with the foundation. It is in the hands of Trustees.

On a plot of ground by the main road opposite Dove Dale Place stands an _old boiler_ that belonged to one Andrew Mann--it has stood (we are told) where it is for the last twenty five years. Before its removal to Battersea, it stood on a piece of land in Vauxhall Bridge Road.

LAMMAS HALL situated in Bridge Road West, is Licensed Pursuant to Act of Parliament of the 25th of King George 2nd, was erected in 1858. The Hall will seat about 400 persons and may be hired for lectures, concerts, and other public purposes. The front part of the building is used as a Vestry Hall and for the transaction of other parochial business. A more commodious Hall is urgently needed in a central part of the parish, so also are required Baths, Lavatory, and a Public Library. Lammas Hall owes its origin from a fund which was paid by the Battersea Park Commissioners for the extinguishment of the Lammas Rights to the Churchwardens, by resolution of the Vestry after several schemes had been brought forward they proposed to build a Hall and Vice Chancellor Stuart appointed the Trustees hence its name "Lammas Hall." Mr Thomas Harrap, _Vestry Clerk_.

THE UNION WORKHOUSE, erected in 1836 is situated within the boundary of Battersea parish at the junction of East Hill and St. John's Hill, it is an extensive brick building with accommodation for 833 inmates. The Infirmary adjoining was added in 1870 at a cost of £40,000. The Casual Ward in addition is constructed for 117 casual paupers. The Union comprises Battersea, Clapham, Putney, Streatham, Tooting, and Wandsworth with a population in 1871 of 125,000 and an area of 11,488 acres. John Sanders, _Solicitor and Clerk_; Edward H. Taylor, _Assistant Clerk_; Rev. William Armstrong, _Chaplain_; T. H. Cresswell, _Medical Officer_; John Hodge, _Master_; Mrs Martha Hodge, _Matron_; Mr. Pettman, _Missionary_.[1]

[Footnote 1: The poor of England till the time of Henry VIII. subsisted as the poor of Ireland until 1838 entirely upon private benevolence. Judge Blackstone observes that till the Statute 26, Henry VIII. cap. 26, he finds no compulsory method for providing for the poor, but upon the total dissolution of the Monasteries, abundance of Statutes were made in the reign of King Henry VIII., Edward VI. and Elizabeth which at last established the Poor's Rate, a legal assessment for the support of the poor. Before the Reformation immense sums of money were appropriated for charitable purposes, and notwithstanding many abuses the religious order of those days never so far lost sight of this original institution as ever to neglect the poor. The famous Statute of the 43rd of Elizabeth, 1601, by which Overseers were appointed for Parishes is the basis of all the poor laws in England. By Statute 23, Edward III., 1342, it was enacted that none should give alms to a beggar able to work. An Act was passed 1531, empowering Justices to grant licenses to poor and impotent persons to beg within certain limits of territory. By the Common Law, the poor were to be sustained by "parsons, rectors of the church and parishioners so that none should die for default of sustenance," and by 15 Richard II. impropriators were obliged to distribute a yearly sum to the poor. An act of 1601 directed that every parish shall provide for its own poor by an assessment to be levied by the Justices in General Sessions and embodied regulations as to how assessment should be made and applied. In 1782 Workhouse Unions were introduced by an Act called Gilbert's Act. The Act of 1834 among other changes established the system of Poor Law Unions. In Scotland the poor were really maintained by the private Alms of individuals and by certain funds under the management of the _Kirk Session_, which when regularly constituted consisted of the Minister, Elders, Session Clerk and Kirk Treasurer. The Presbytery was by law appointed Auditor of the Poor's Accounts of the several parishes. In the event of any difficult case arising in the discharge of this duty the Presbytery could lay it before the Synod for advice. "Scotland and Ireland have been legislated for separately, their poor laws are similar to the English in principle and practice; both are administered by a Central Board, which supervises the local bodies charged with relief, and in both the rate is levied on the annual value of real property. The present system in Scotland was instituted by the 8th and 9th Vic. c. 83 (1845). Scotland is divided into 883 parishes, some of them combined for Workhouse accommodation. The relief is administered by a parochial board, appointed by ratepayers, the Burgh Magistrate and the Kirk Session. They appoint Inspectors of the poor who act as relieving officers. The Scotch law differs from the English and Irish in allowing no relief to able bodied adults."]

Old Battersea Workhouse, which has long since been pulled down, was situated in the neighbourhood of Battersea Square. In the same neighbourhood is the "Priory," now the residence of Mr. Oakman. Not far from the Raven Tavern was the "Cage," in Surrey Lane, for the confinement of petty criminals. Near the Prince's Head Tavern was the Pound in which cattle were enclosed for trespass until replevied or redeemed. Also a wooden machine called the "Stocks" to put the legs of offenders in, for securing disorderly persons, and by way of punishment in divers cases, ordained by statute, &c., was erected without the gates of Battersea Churchyard, near the waterside.

In the last quarter of the eighteenth century, writes Robert Chambers in his "Book of Days," there flourished at the corner of the lane leading from the Wandsworth Road to Battersea Bridge a tavern yclept "The Falcon," kept by one Robert Death--a man whose figure is said to have ill comported with his name, seeing that it displayed the highest appearance of jollity and good condition. A merry-hearted artist, named John Nixon, passing the house one day, found an Undertaker's company regaling themselves at 'Death's door,' having just discharged their duty to a rich Nabob in a neighbouring churchyard, they had ... found an opportunity for refreshing exhausted nature; and well did they ply the joyful work before them. The artist, tickled at a festivity among such characters in such a place, sketched them on the spot. This sketch was soon after published, accompanied by a cantata from another hand of no great merit, in which the foreman of the company, Mr. Sable, is represented as singing as follows, to the tune of 'I've kissed and I've prattled with fifty fair maids':--

"Dukes, Lords, have I buried, and squires of fame, And people of every degree; But of all the fine jobs that ere came in my way, A funeral like this for me. This, this is the job That fills the fob; Oh! the burying of a Nabob for me! Unfeather the hearse, put the pall in the bag, Give the horses some oats and some hay; Drink our next merry meeting and quackeries increase With three times three and hurra!"

A portion of the Falcon Tavern erected about 275 years ago at the end of Falcon Lane still remains with the old witch elm tree in front, its hollow trunk, to which a door is attached, answers the purpose of a bin or cupboard where hay is put with which to feed horses, and the old wooden-cased pump, fastened with rusty holdfasts to the tree, may still be seen. On the 15th of January, 1811, a printed engraving was published representing "Undertakers regaling" by this road-side inn, a copy of which may now be seen within. At that time R. Death was the landlord, he had written outside the tavern in large characters, Robert Death, Dealer in Genuine Rum, Gin, Wine; an Ordinary on Sundays; Tea, Coffee and Hot Rolls; Syllabubs and Cheese-cakes in the highest perfection. The subjoined doggerel lines as a skit or burlesque on the publican's name is published with the engraving:--

"O stop not here ye sottish wights, For purl nor ale nor gin, For if you stop whoe'er alights By Death is taken in. When having eat and drank your fill Should ye, O hapless case, Neglect to pay your landlord's bill Death stares you in the face. With grief sincere I pity those Who've drawn themselves this scrape in, Since from this dreadful gripe, heaven knows, Alas! there's no escaping. This one advice my friend pursue Whilst you have life and breath, Ne'er pledge your host for if you do You'll surely drink to Death."

The Falcon Tavern is now kept by Mr. J. G. Brown.

Mr. Edward Walford in his work entitled "Old and New London," published by Cassell, Petter and Galpin, London; in Part 66 at Page 479, writes, "Battersea has other claims to immortality: in spite of the claims of Burton and Edinburgh, there can be little doubt, if Fuller is a trustworthy historian, that one of the ozier beds of the river side here was the cradle of bottled ale. The story is thus circumstantially told in 'The Book of Anecdote':--Alexander Nowell, Dean of St Paul's and Master of Westminster School in the reign of Queen Mary, was a supporter of 'the new opinions' and also an excellent angler. But, writes Fuller, while Nowell was catching of fishes Bishop Bonner was after catching of Nowell, and would certainly have sent him to the Tower if he could have caught him, as doubtless he would have done had not a good merchant of London conveyed him away safely upon the seas. It so happened that Nowell had been fishing upon the banks of the Thames when he received the first intimation of his danger, which was so pressing that he dared not even go back to his house to make any preparation for his flight. Like an honest angler, he had taken with him on this expedition provisions for the day, in the shape of some bread and cheese and some beer in a bottle; and on his return from London and to his own haunts he remembered that he had left these stores in a safe place upon the bank, and there he resolved to look for them. The bread and cheese of course were gone; but the bottle was still there--'yet no bottle, but rather a gun: such was the sound at the opening thereof.' And this trifling circumstance, quaintly observes Fuller, 'is believed to have been the origin of bottled ale in England, for casualty (_i.e._ accident) is mother of more inventions than is industry.'"

On the road to Wandsworth and facing Plough Lane was "Ye Plough Inn," erected A.D. 1701. In front of this Inn grew an oak to which an iron ring was fastened, and it is supposed that here Dick Turpin the notorious highwayman occasionally reined up his bonny black mare. When the Inn was re-built in 1875-6 the trunk was removed to the front of the "Old House" in Plough Lane, which formerly belonged to Mr. Carter, who owned extensive market gardens about here. The following lines were written in commemoration of the famous Old Plough Tree, and the present landlord has had the lines enframed for his customers to read:--

"This stump the remains of the Old Oak Tree, That flourish'd when knights of the road roamed free, When bands of lawless yet chivalrous knights Struck fear to the hearts of purse-proud wights! This gay old king of the forest's wilds, His proud head bow'd to the sun's bright smiles, In glorious prime when his branches were strong As shoulders of Atlas in time long gone! His leaves in the murmuring breeze did fling Their sweet green shade o'er the Old Plough Inn! When the knights of the road of their deeds did sing, 'Twas there to his side was first fixed the ring To which Dick Turpin the gallant and bold When going to the Plough to spend his bright gold Did tether his mare, swift Bonny Black Bess. When rider and horse stopp'd here to get rest. Removed from his place when the Old Plough's head By time's fell decree in ruin was laid! This stump that remains of the Old Plough tree In front of 'The Old House,' in Plough Lane you may see. Here placed in memory of the Old Plough Inn An aged memento of things that have been! Here in his last stage, sapped branchless and grey, Here in cool September, the trunk's first day, In the year eighteen hundred and seventy-six, Was planted by Messrs. J. Goodman and Wilkes." _William Holloway._

Situated in Plough Lane, and nearly opposite the residence of the late Rev. I. M. Soule, were Alms Houses for eight poor widows, founded by Mrs. Henry Tritton. The whole of this estate is now built upon and is called May Soule Road.

At Lawn House, now occupied by Mr. Miller the Barge Builder in Lombard Road, of the Firm of Nash and Miller, lived Mr. Hammett, of the firm of Eisdale and Hammett, Bankers. He was a great patron of the rowing fraternity and kept an open house two days in the year. He awarded the prizes for the Kean's Sovereigns and the Funny Boat Club races on the lawn in front of his house.

The Old Swan Tavern (now kept by Mr. R. Turner) nearly opposite the Star and Garter, was a kind of half-way house between Lambeth and Putney for the Eton and Westminster scholars who used to put in here when training for the great rowing match so strongly contested between them, but who in the zenith of their fame never obtained such popularity as the annual boat race has done of late between the Cantabs and Oxonians.

An old-fashioned print represents the former Parish Church of Battersea with square tower crowned with lantern and pinnacles, not far off is the Swan Tavern with stairs leading down to the river where persons arriving by boat might land. An excellent wood-cut engraving in "Lysons's Environs" represents not only the New Parish Church but the sign of the Old Swan with two necks. Charles Dibdin in a ballad opera entitled "The Waterman; or the first of August," first performed at the Theatre Royal, Haymarket, August 8th, 1774, Scene III.--Battersea--represents a room at the Swan, with a large open window looking on the Thames in which Master Bundle the honest gardener and hen-pecked husband, and Mrs. Bundle the termagant wife, the Star of Battersea, figure conspicuously. Reference is also made in Scene I. to the "Black Raven," now kept by W. Ambrose. It is said that in olden time this was a Posting Establishment for Royalty.