Part 13

On the Lammas land, in the summer months, gipsies pitched their encampments. On Sundays the place presented the aspect of a pleasure fair, lawlessness, Sabbath desecration, immorality, and vice were rampant. At length the place became a scandal and a public disgrace, and even now, notwithstanding the vast improvements in the neighbourhood, Battersea, as a Parish, to a certain extent is ignored, and persons would no more have smiled at Battersea Park being called Lambeth Park than they do now at Clapham Junction being called by that misnomer, and so with other parts of the parish. A great boon was conferred upon the inhabitants of the South-west of London when this infamous locality was converted into a public park. The intolerable nuisance complained of did not take place previously to the year 1835, after Lord Spencer's first sale when the land fell into the hands of small proprietors. Irrespective of social propriety, public decency and order, horse-racing, donkey-riding, fortune-telling, gambling, cock-shying, swings, roundabouts, boxing, and all the paraphernalia of a pleasure fair with its concomitant evils were the constant scenes witnessed here on Sundays. Mr. Thomas Kirk (now Curate of St. George's) who was for many years a Missionary in Battersea, in his report published in the "London City Mission Magazine," September 1, 1870, states, "that which made this part of Battersea Fields so notorious was the gaming, sporting, and pleasure-grounds at the 'Red House' and 'Balloon' public-houses, and Sunday fairs, held throughout the Summer months. These have been the places of resort of hundreds and thousands, from royalty and nobility down to the poorest pauper and the meanest beggar. And surely if ever there was a place out of hell which surpassed Sodom and Gomorrah in ungodliness and abomination this was it. Here the worst men and the vilest of the human race seemed to try to outvie each other in wicked deeds. I have gone to this sad spot on the afternoon and evening of the Lord's day, when there have been from 60 to 120 horses and donkeys racing, foot-racing, walking matches, flying boats, flying horses, roundabouts, theatres, comic actors, shameless dancers, conjurers, fortune-tellers, gamblers of every description, drinking booths, stalls, hawkers, and vendors of all kinds of articles. It would take a more graphic pen than mine to describe the mingled shouts and noises and the unmentionable doings of this pandemonium on earth. I once asked the pierman 'how many people were landed on Sunday from that pier?' He told me that according to the weather, he had landed from 10,000 to 15,000 people! This influx was besides that by the various land roads by which hundreds of thousands used to come, till the numbers have sometimes been computed at 40,000 and 50,000." Mr. Thomas Cubitt, in 1843, suggested to Her Majesty's Commission for Improving the Metropolis the advisability of laying Battersea Fields out as pleasure-grounds, and this design was subsequently pressed upon their attention by the Hon. and Rev. Robert John Eden. An Act of Parliament passed in 1846 empowered Her Majesty's Commissioners of Woods to form a Royal Park in Battersea Fields. Acts to enlarge their powers were passed in 1848, 1851 and 1853, by which a Commission, incorporated as the Battersea Park Commission was appointed with power to sell, demise or lease lands not required for the park. Mr. (afterwards Sir) James Pennethorne's plan was approved, by which 320 acres were to be enclosed at an estimated cost of £154,250. The fields were entirely overflowed by the river at high water, until about three hundred years ago when an embankment was raised, and the land reclaimed.[1] Brayley referring to this period says, "The land reclaimed went to the Lord of the Manor, but was subject to some ill-defined rights of inter-commonage exercised by the inhabitants of Battersea at stated periods of the year. From various causes these rights have been nearly extinguished and most of the land is now held by different proprietors, and partly let for building and other uses." Wild flowers grew abundantly in Battersea Fields.[2] A learned botanist in the last century compiled a flora of Battersea, and many of the plants that luxuriated in these fields were not to be met with elsewhere, except at places much farther from London. Its surface was raised by a million cubic yards of earth from various sources, particularly from the London Docks (Victoria) Extension. The Park comprises 198 acres, was purchased at a cost of £246,517, and laid out in 1852-58 at a further cost of £66,373. In 1857 planting was commenced. Up to this period the works had been executed under Mr. Pennethorne, Architect of the Office of Works, when the late Mr. Farrow was appointed to take charge and complete the unfinished works. The park has a grass surface of nearly 66 acres. About 40 acres are set apart for cricket and croquet. There are two match grounds, which, together, admit of seven matches being played at the same time. On these grounds between 600 and 700 matches are played annually. The spaces are assigned by ballot. There is a practice-ground for organized adult cricket clubs, on which from 70 to 90 cricket clubs practice on different days; and a general practice ground, appropriated to schools and junior clubs, and the public generally. The season for cricket is from 1st May to 30th September. Other large spaces are used for the drill and exercise of troops stationed at Chelsea Barracks. Various volunteer corps as also the district police are drilled here. The park contains one of the richest collections of shrubs and trees in or near London. Its soil is specially suited to the rose, so that visitors who take delight in the queen of the English garden resort to the rosery.

[Footnote 1: It was a miserable swamp, said to have been gained for the parish of Battersea by the act of charitably burying a drowned man there who had been refused sepulture in the adjoining parish. This act was held in a subsequent law-suit to prove a right of ownership, and thus a good deed was amply recompensed.

On the northern side of the river Thames is conspicuously situated that grand national asylum for decayed and maimed soldiers known as Chelsea Hospital. This Hospital was begun by Charles II., carried on by James II., and completed by William III. in 1690. The first projector of Chelsea Hospital was Stephen Fox, grandfather to the Hon. Charles Fox. "He could not abear," he said "to see these soldiers, who had ventured their lives, and spent their strength in the service of their country, reduced to beg." And with the munificence of a philanthropist, he subscribed £13,000 towards the establishment of the Hospital. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren, at a cost of £150,000, on the site of an old theological college escheated to the Crown. In 1850 there were 70,000 _out_ and 539 _in pensioners_. The body of the Duke of Wellington lay here in state 10-17 Nov., 1852. Ranelagh Gardens lay at the northern foot of Vauxhall Bridge, a portion now forming the pleasure-grounds of Chelsea Hospital, and were formerly the gardens of Lord Ranelagh's Mansion. They were opened 1733. The amusement were masquerades, illuminated and day-light fêtes, dancing, music, and promenading, which was continued until the end of the century. The grand rotundo, which somewhat resembled the Pantheon of Rome, had an external diameter 185 feet, the internal 150. It was taken down in 1805. In Cheyne Walk was a famous Coffee-House, first opened in 1695, by one Salter a barber, who drew the attention of the public by the eccentricity of his conduct, and furnished his house with a large collection of natural and other curiosities. Admiral Munden and other officers who had been much on the Coast of Spain enriched it with many curiosities and gave the owner the name of Don Saltero, by which he is mentioned more than once in the "Tatler," particularly in No. 34. This coffee-house was frequented by Richard Cromwell and many of the wits and authors of that day. "The Folly," a gilded barge where music and dancing and other amusements delighted the beaux and belles of the day of the Restoration, was moored in the Thames not far from the Modern Cremorne. Adjoining Chelsea Hospital is the Physic Garden belonging to the Company of Apothecaries, which was enriched with a great variety of plants, both indigenous and exotic, and given in 1721 by Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., on condition of their paying a quit-rent of £5, and delivering annually to the Royal Society fifty specimens of different sorts of plants of the growth of this garden till the number amounted to 2,000. In 1733 the Company erected a marble statue of the donor, by Rysbrack, in the centre of the garden, the front of which was conspicuously marked toward the river by two noble cedars of Lebanon, the first ever planted in England, of which only one remains. Sir Hans Sloane was born at Killileagh in the north of Ireland, in 1660, of Scottish extraction. He retired at the age of eighty to Chelsea, to enjoy a peaceful tranquillity, the remains of a well-spent life. He died Jan. 11, 1752. He published the "History of Jamaica" in 2 vols. folio. In the churchyard is the monument of Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., founder of the British Museum; and on the south-west corner of the church is affixed a mural monument to the memory of Dr. Edward Chamberlayne, with a punning Latin epitaph, which for its quaintness, may detain the reader's attention. In the church is a still more curious Latin epitaph on his daughter; from which we learn, that, on the 30th of June, 1690, she fought, in men's clothing, six hours against the French, on board a fire-ship under the command of her brother. The Chelsea Embankment extends along the north bank of the river from Chelsea Hospital to Albert Suspension Bridge; it was opened 9th May, 1874, by the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, Lieut. Col. Sir James Magnaghten Hogg, M.P., Chairman of the Metropolitan Board of Works; Sir Joseph Bazalgette, C.B., Engineer. A beautiful view of Chelsea Embankment with its adjacent buildings may be had from the broad Boulevard running along the river-side in Battersea Park; including the lofty spire of St. Luke's Church, Old Chelsea Church, the Gardens of the Apothecaries' Company, the fine old trees and picturesque Dutch-like houses of Cheyne Walk, the Gardens and Buildings of Chelsea Hospital, the New Barracks beyond, and the lofty Pumping Station and Tower near Grosvenor Road Station.]

[Footnote 2: We are acquainted with an aged gentleman well skilled in medical botany who in the early part of his professional experience used to have gathered certain choice herbs for therapeutic purposes which grew abundantly in this locality.

The following are the names of some of the indigenous plants:--

_Circea intetiana_--Enchanter's Night Shade (in the lane from the fields to the Prince's Head, Battersea, uncommon in shady lanes). _Valeriana dioica_--Small Marsh Valerian. _Fedia olitoria_--Corn Salad (dry banks Battersea Fields and Lavender Sweep). _Panicum Vertiullatum_--Rough Panic Grass (rare). _P. Viride_--Green Panic Grass (near the Red House and Nine Elms). _P. Crusgalli_--Loose Panic Grass (near the footpath). _Bromus diandrus_--Upright Annual Broom Grass (rare, on an old wall near Battersea Church). _Avena flavescens_--Yellow Oat-Grass (not common, in the footpath from Battersea Bridge to Lavender Hill). _Myosotis palustris_--Great Water Scorpion Grass or, Forget me not, (ditches and marshy grounds; plentiful in Battersea Fields). An elegant plant, the emblem of affection among the Germans. _Lithospermum arvense_--Corn Gromwell, (Battersea Cornfields; not common). _Primula vulgaris_--Primrose. _P. Veris_--Cowslip (Fields on Lavender Hill). _Hottonia palustris_--Water Violet, (plentiful in Latchmere). _Scirpus Triqueter_--Triangular Club Rush, rare, (Banks of the Thames between Vauxhall and Battersea). _Lysimachia vulgaris_--Great Yellow Loose Strife. _Samolus valerandi_--(Brook weed, Water Pimpernel). _Chenopodium bonus Henricus_--English Mercury. _C. olidum_--Fetid Goosefoot, (rare). _Cicuta Virosa_--Water Hemlock, (deadly poison to men and cattle). _Conium Maculatum_--Common Hemlock, (a very dangerous plant). _Œnanthe fistulosa_--Water Dropwort. _Œ. crocata_--Hemlock Water Dropwort, (deadly poison to men and cattle). _Œ. Phellandrium_--Fine-leaved Water Dropwort, (a very poisonous plant). _Smymium Olusatrum_--Alexanders, (waste grounds near old houses). _Ornithogalum umbellatum_--Star of Bethlehem. _Rumex Sanguineus_--Blood-veined Dock, (rare, bank of a ditch on Lavender Hill, between the Nursery and the footpath). _R. pulcher_--Fiddle Dock. _R. palustris_--Yellow Marsh Dock. _R. Hydrolapathum_--Great Water Dock. _Triglochin palustre_-- Marsh Arrow Grass. _Alisma plantago_--Water Plantain, (ponds and marshes). _Polygonum Bistorta_--Bistort, or Snake Weed. _Butomus umbellatus_--Flowering Rush. _Saxifraga granulata_--White Saxifrage. _S. Tridactylites_--Rue-leaved Saxifrage. _Sedum reflexum_--Reflex Yellow Stonecrop. _Lychnis flos Cuculi_--Meadow Lychnis. _Chelidonium majus_--Celandine. _Papaver dubium_--Long Smooth-headed Poppy. _Stratiotes aloides_--Water Aloe. _Thalictrum flavum_--Common Meadow Rue. _Nepeta Cataria_--Cat Mint. _Lamium incisum_--Cut-leaved dead Nettle. _Scutellaria galericulata_--Common Scull Cap. _Prunella vulgaris_--Self Heal. _Pedicularis palustris_--Tall Red Rattle. _Antirrhinum Cymbalaria_--Joy-leaved Snapdragon. _A. spurium_--Round-leaved Fluellin or Snapdragon. _A. orontium_--Lesser Snapdragon, (Cornfields, etc., Battersea Fields). _Cochlearia armoracia_--Horse Raddish. _Nasturtum amphibium_--Amphibious Yellow Cress. _Sisyonbrium irio_--Broad Hedge Mustard. _S. sophia_--Fine-leaved Hedge Mustard. _Erysimum Cheiranthoides_--Worm-seed Treacle Mustard. _Geranium pratense_--Blue Meadow Crane's Bill. _G. Robertianum_--Herb Robert. _G. Lucidum_--Shining Crane's Bill. _G. pyrenaicum_--Perennial Dove's-foot Crane's Bill. _G. rotundifolium_--Soft Round-leaved Crane's Bill, (by the road side near the Prince's Head, Battersea). _Malva rotundifolia_--Dwarf Mallow. _Lathyrus aphaca_--Yellow Vetching. _Ervum hirsutum_--Hairy Tare, (Osier ground near Battersea). _Trifolium fragiferum_--Strawberry-headed Trefoil. _Hypericum humifusum_--Trailing St. John's Wort. _H. pulchrum_--Small upright St. John's Wort. _Tragnopogon pratensis_--Yellow Goat's Beard. _Cichorium Intybus_--Wild Endive; or, Succory. _Onopordum Acanthium_--Common Cotton Thistle. _Bidens cernua_--Nodding Bur-Marygold. _Tusslago Petasites_--Butter Bur. _Orchis morio_ and _maculata_ are said to have been found in Battersea Meadows. _Listera ovata_--Common Twayblade. _Typha augustifolia_--Lesser Cat's Tail; or, Reedmace. _Sparganium ramosum_--Branched Bur-Reed. _Carex dioica_--Common Separate-headed Carex. _C. remota_--Remote Carex. _C. riparia_--Common Bank Carex. _Sagittaria sagittifolia_--Arrow Head. _Mercurialis annua_--Annual Mercury. _Equisetum limosum_--Smooth naked Horsetail.

See a catalogue of the rarer species of indigenous plants which have been observed growing in the vicinity of Clapham; systematically arranged according to their class and order, with a reference to the figures in English Botany, printed in a deeply interesting work entitled "Clapham and its Environs," by David Batten.]

The Sub-tropical Garden opened in August, 1864, is nearly four acres in extent. It is situated at the head of the ornamental water surrounded by sloping banks, parterres and rolling lawns. In this region flourish palms, tree-ferns, plants with large leaves, gigantic grasses, and the climbers and creepers of Equatorial forests and jungles. India-rubber trees, castor-oil plants, Japanese honeysuckle, Chinese privet, the banana of Abyssinia recalling the expedition to Magdala; the papyrus plant of Egypt, the veritable bulrush of the Nile, the beautiful scarlet foliage of the dragon's blood tree from South America, the large-leaved tobacco plant, the caladium esculentum from the West Indies, the neottopteris australis etc., besides a variety of other vegetable forms from the tropics. Eastward of the Sub-tropical Garden is situated the Peninsula, containing some of the choicest combinations of floral work, resembling in pattern the most exquisite tapestry. The Alpine point gives a miniature representation of the valleys and mountain-peaks of Alpine scenery. Several little hills are so arranged as to show in miniature the ascending zones of vegetation, beginning with the low warm plains with palms, and leading up to snow-clad heights. The snow is represented by gnaphalium tementosum. The lake, rocks, waterfalls and landscapes are truly picturesque, being so arranged as to produce the most pleasing effect.

The ornamental water covers 23 acres of ground, with an average depth of 2½ feet. Ornithological specimens of the web-footed class afford sport for the aged as well as for the young who feed the aquatic birds with cake, biscuit and crumbs of bread. Besides a large colony of Moorhens that have settled down in these friendly waters may be seen Chinese, Egyptian and Barnacle geese, and Carolina and Muscovy ducks; also

"The Swan, with arch'd neck Between her white wings mantling proudly, rows Her state with oary feet"

The lark, the linnet, the thrush, the black-bird join in chorus to fill the air with their bird-song. At night passers-by are charmed with the sweet, rich mellow notes of

"The merry nightingale, That crowds, and hurries, and precipitates, With fast thick warble his delicious notes, As if he were fearful that an April night Would be too short for him to utter forth His love chant." _Coleridge._

It may not be uninteresting for the naturalist to know that larva of the goat moth (_cossus ligniperda_) inhabits poplars and willows in Battersea Park. This park too is considered famous for the congregation of vast flocks of starlings just before their migration.

Boating here is a safe and enjoyable amusement. Skiffs are one shilling per hour, party boats eighteenpence. In Winter, when the water is frozen over, it is quite an area for skaters.

The lake is an artificial one, and is fed partly from the Thames and partly by a steam engine fixed for the purpose of supplying the park with water for the lodges, drinking-fountains, roads, flower-beds, etc.

The Gymnasium is in the South-western portion of the park. On the adjacent sward Sunday and other schools may hold their annual treats. In the space thus appropriated preaching is allowed and public meetings are permitted.

Nearly at the centre of the Peninsula there is a reservoir which is excavated below the level of the neighbouring springs. The water from this self-supplied source is as clear as crystal; it is pumped into an elevated tank above the engine house which holds 20,000 gallons, from which are laid service pipes for the supply of the park.

The avenue occupies a central position of the park; the trees are the English elm. This affords an enjoyable and shady promenade.

The horse ride or equestrian road, about forty feet wide, nearly encircles the park and is almost two miles in length. Here is also an excellent carriage drive separate from the latter by a row of young plane trees. There are numerous seats in the park for the accommodation of the public. Situated in the centre of the park is a band-stand. The band plays in the Summer and Autumnal months for the entertainment of those who are fond of instrumental music.

There are two refreshment rooms where light refreshments can be obtained at moderate prices. The lodges too are appropriated to the public and offer refreshments and cloak-rooms.

The advantage of a river frontage possessed by Battersea Park is shown by the fact that upwards of 12,000 persons have landed at the Park Pier on fine Summer days. On Sundays, when Chelsea Bridge is free, in fine weather, 40,000 or 50,000 people have been in the park.

The public owe a tribute of grateful respect to the late Mr. John Gibson, of Surrey Lane, whose acquaintance with horticulture and the science of botany was something considerable, who for about fifteen years was Park Superintendent. That gentleman went on a Botanical Mission to India for and at the expense of the Duke of Devonshire. The manner in which portions of the park are disposed was from designs originally his own. The new rock work is by Mr. Pulham, of Broxbourne. Mr. Alexander Rogers is at present Park Superintendent; Mr. E. W. Partridge, Inspector. There are twelve Park Constables, viz., Mr. J. Cook, South-east Lodge; J. Hawkins, South Lodge; Edwin Ashby, West Lodge; George Weedon, Charles Page, William Jones, James Powell, J. Pointer, George Dicks, W. Sheppard, Isaac Chamberlain, William Withers, Mr. Dowly, Foreman of the Gardeners. On an average about forty gardeners are employed in the park. The park is under the Commissioners of Works, No. 12, Whitehall.[1]

[Footnote 1: On Battersea Park Embankment, near where the Albert Bridge now spans the river, lies like some ancient ruin the beautiful Portico of Burlington House. It was when removed from Piccadilly in 1868 to have been re-erected in the Park.]

The park was opened March 28th, 1858.

In 1862 the Royal Agricultural Society of England held their Annual Show in Battersea Park.

Recently some beautiful villas in Queen Anne's style have been built in Albert road.

Opposite the Western gate a site has been chosen for the erection of a Chapel-of-Ease to St. Mary's.

At the angle facing the South-western gate two stately mansions have recently been erected contiguous to each other, called Lancaster Tower and Strathedon House.