Chapter 60

The Peruvian Corporation Railway--The Land of the Incas--Lake Titicaca--Bolivia--Chile--The Argentine--A Last Narrow Escape--Back in England pp. 458-476

APPENDIX Some of the Principal Plants of Brazil--Mammals--Birds--Fish-- Reptiles--Vocabularies pp. 477-496

INDEX pp. 497-504

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

VOL. II

THE MOUTH OF THE PUTAMAYO RIVER (_Coloured Plate_) _Frontispiece_

PAGE RUBBER TREE SHOWING INCISIONS AND THE COLLAR AND TIN CUP FOR THE COLLECTION OF THE LATEX 4 COAGULATING RUBBER INTO A BALL 4 BALLS OF RUBBER OUTSIDE A SERINGUEIRO'S HUT 8 METHOD OF PRESSING RUBBER INTO CAKES, THE ALUM PROCESS OF COAGULATION BEING USED 8 THE UPPER ARINOS RIVER 12 THE ARINOS RIVER ABOVE THE RAPIDS 12 THE FIRST ROCKS IN THE ARINOS RIVER 20 ENORMOUS GLOBULAR ROCKS TYPICAL OF THE ARINOS RIVER 20 A ROCKY BARRIER IN THE RIVER 24 A PICTURESQUE DOUBLE WATERFALL ON THE ARINOS RIVER 24 AN ISLAND OF THE ARINOS RIVER 28 VEGETATION ON AN ISLAND IN THE RIVER ARINOS 28 PREPARING THE CANOE TO DESCEND A RAPID 36 A CATARACT ON THE ARINOS RIVER 36 A RAPID ON THE ARINOS RIVER 44 TAKING THE CANOE THROUGH A NARROW CHANNEL 44 A FORMIDABLE VORTEX 64 GOING DOWN A VIOLENT RAPID IN A NARROW CHANNEL 64 THE RESULT OF HALF AN HOUR'S FISHING ON THE ARINOS-JURUENA 84 LEADING THE CANOE DOWN A RAPID BY ROPE 92 CHARACTERISTIC ROCKY BARRIER ACROSS THE ARINOS RIVER (AUTHOR'S SEXTANT IN FOREGROUND) 92 WHIRLPOOL AT END OF RAPID 100 IN SHALLOW WATER 100 FISHING ON THE ARINOS: A JAHU 104 FISH OF THE ARINOS RIVER 104 A FINE CATARACT ON THE ARINOS-JURUENA RIVER 108 PREPARING THE CANOE PRIOR TO DESCENDING A RAPID 112 A NASTY RAPID 112 A GIANT CENTRAL WAVE EMERGING FROM A NARROW CHANNEL 116 A DANGEROUS RAPID 120 TAKING THE CANOE AND PART OF THE BAGGAGE DOWN A NARROW PASSAGE AMONG ROCKS 120 THE CANOE BEING LED DOWN A RAPID 124 CROCODILE ABOUT TO ATTACK ONE OF THE DOGS OF THE EXPEDITION. PHOTOGRAPHED BY AUTHOR AT A DISTANCE OF THREE METRES (RIO ARINOS-JURUENA) 128 TERRIFYING RAPID SHOT BY AUTHOR AND HIS MEN IN THEIR CANOE 132 AUTHOR'S MEN SHOOTING A CROCODILE 136 A CATARACT IN THE RIVER ARINOS 140 AUTHOR'S CANOE AMONG GREAT VOLCANIC ROCKS 140 PREPARING TO DESCEND A RAPID 144 A CATARACT IN THE ARINOS RIVER 144 LAKE FORMED WHERE THE ARINOS AND JURUENA RIVERS MEET 148 GOING THROUGH A RAPID 148 AUTHOR'S CANOE GOING DOWN A CATARACT 152 THE IMMENSE WAVES ENCOUNTERED BY AUTHOR IN EMERGING FROM THE CHANNEL, IN THE RAPID OF THE INFERNO. (THE CANOE WITH ITS OCCUPANTS SHOT UP VERTICALLY IN THE AIR) 156 A GIANT SUCURÍ SNAKE WITH ENTIRE DEER CONTAINED IN ITS DIGESTIVE ORGANS 160 AN EASY RAPID 164 GOING THROUGH A NARROW CHANNEL 164 A DANGEROUS VORTEX 168 PREPARING THE CANOE TO GO DOWN A RAPID 168 A NARROW PASSAGE IN THE ARINOS RIVER 172 TREBLE VORTEX. (THE WATER REVOLVED IN THREE DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS IN SUCCESSION) 172 AT THE AUGUST FALLS 176 AUTHOR AND HIS MEN IN WATER UP TO THEIR NECKS FOR AN ENTIRE NIGHT ENDEAVOURING TO SAVE THEIR CANOE, WHICH IN SHOOTING A RAPID HAD BECOME STUCK BETWEEN ROCKS _(Coloured Plate_) 178 THE SALTO AUGUSTO FROM ABOVE 192 THE UPPER TERRACE OF THE AUGUST WATERFALL 184 INTERESTING GEOLOGICAL FORMATION BELOW THE SALTO AUGUSTO 188 THE SALTO AUGUSTO (UPPER TERRACE) 192 FOLIATED ROCK BELOW THE AUGUST FALLS 196 THE WOODEN RAILWAY CONSTRUCTED BY AUTHOR IN ORDER TO TAKE THE CANOE OVERLAND FOR TWO AND A HALF KILOMETRES AT THE AUGUST FALLS 200 FORMATION OF ROCK BELOW THE AUGUST FALLS 200 PHOTOGRAPH SHOWING THE ROAD CUT BY AUTHOR ACROSS THE FOREST IN ORDER TO TAKE THE HEAVY CANOE OVERLAND 204 CONVEYING THE CANOE ACROSS THE FOREST ON IMPROVISED RAILWAY AND ROLLERS 208 PUSHING THE CANOE UPHILL THROUGH THE FOREST. (NOTICE MEN WITH HEADS WRAPPED OWING TO TORTURING INSECTS) 212 CONVEYING THE CANOE, WEIGHING 2,000 LB., OVER A HILL RANGE--THE DESCENT 216 AUTHOR'S CANOE BEING MADE TO TRAVEL ACROSS THE FOREST 220 DISTANT VIEW SHOWING BOTH FALLS AT THE SALTO AUGUSTO 224 LAUNCHING THE CANOE AFTER ITS JOURNEY OVER A HILL RANGE 224 A MOST DANGEROUS RAPID NAVIGATED BY AUTHOR AND HIS MEN 228 LETTING THE CANOE JUMP A RAPID 232 ARTIFICIAL CANAL MADE BY AUTHOR AND HIS MEN IN ORDER TO TAKE THEIR CANOE ALONG WHERE THE RIVER WAS IMPASSABLE 236 RAPID THROUGH WHICH AUTHOR TOOK HIS CANOE 240 CONVEYING THE CANOE BY HAND DOWN A RAPID 244 CANOE BEING TAKEN ALONG AN ARTIFICIAL CANAL MADE BY AUTHOR AND HIS MEN 248 A MOMENT OF SUSPENSE: AUTHOR AND HIS MEN IN THEIR CANOE GOING THROUGH A NARROW CHANNEL BETWEEN VERTICAL WALLS OF ROCK. THE WATER FORCED THROUGH FROM THREE LARGE ARMS OF THE RIVER JOINING AT THAT POINT FORMED A HIGH AND DANGEROUS CENTRAL WAVE (_Coloured Plate_) 250 CONVEYING THE CANOE THROUGH THE FOREST. (NOTICE THE SIDE OF THE CANOE SPLIT AND STUFFED WITH PIECES OF CLOTH) 252 LEADING THE EMPTY CANOE DOWN A DANGEROUS CHANNEL. (PHOTOGRAPHED A FEW SECONDS BEFORE THE ROPE SNAPPED AND CANOE ESCAPED) 256 THE S. SIMÃO WATERFALL 260 THE HUGE CANOE BEING TAKEN THROUGH A SMALL ARTIFICIAL CANAL MADE IN THE ROCKS BY THE AUTHOR AND HIS MEN 264 MUNDURUCU INDIANS 268 AUTHOR TAKING ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS ON A SANDY BEACH OF THE RIVER ARINOS-JURUENA 272 WHERE THE RIVERS ARINOS-JURUENA AND S. MANOEL MEET 276 JOSÉ MARACATI, CHIEF OF THE MUNDURUCUS, TAPAJOZ 276 APIACAR BOY 280 APIACAR INDIAN 280 APIACAR WOMEN 284 MUNDURUCU WOMEN 288 APIACAR CHILDREN 288 RAFT CONSTRUCTED BY THE AUTHOR IN ORDER TO NAVIGATE THE CANUMA RIVER WITH HIS TWO COMPANIONS OF STARVATION (_Coloured Plate_) 336 CANOE MADE OF THE BARK OF THE BURITY PALM 340 INDIANS OF THE MADEIRA RIVER 340 CARIPUNA INDIANS 348 INDIAN IDOLS OF THE PUTUMAYO DISTRICT 348 TRADING BOATS LANDING BALLS OF RUBBER, RIVER TAPAJOZ 352 ITAITUBA 356 A TRADING BOAT ON THE TAPAJOZ RIVER 360 THE S.S. "COMMANDANTE MACEDO" 360 COLONEL R. P. BRAZIL AND HIS CHARMING WIFE 364 WHERE THE MADEIRA-MAMORE RAILWAY BEGINS 368 MADEIRA-MAMORE RAILWAY, SHOWING CUT THROUGH TROPICAL FOREST 368 BOLIVIAN RUBBER AT ABUNA STATION ON THE MADEIRA-MAMORE RAILWAY 372 THE INAUGURATION TRAIN ON THE MADEIRA-MAMORE RAILWAY 372 WRECK OF THE "MAMORIA" IN THE CALDERÃO OF THE SOLIMÕES RIVER 376 INDIANS OF THE PUTUMAYO DISTRICT. (DR. REY DE CASTRO, PERUVIAN CONSUL AT MANAOS IN THE CENTRE OF PHOTOGRAPH) 376 A STREET IN IQUITOS 380 THE LAUNCH "RIMAC" ON THE UCAYALLI RIVER 380 A TRAIL IN THE ANDES 384 CAMPAS INDIAN CHILDREN 388 CAMPAS OLD WOMAN AND HER SON 392 CAMPAS INDIAN WOMAN 396 CAMPAS WOMAN 400 CAMPAS MAN, WOMAN AND CHILD 400 THE UCAYALLI RIVER 402 THE LAUNCH ON WHICH AUTHOR TRAVELLED ALMOST TO THE FOOT OF THE ANDES 402 CAMPAS FAMILY WADING ACROSS A STREAM 404 A FARMHOUSE ON THE ANDES 404 ON THE ANDES: AN ELEVATED TRAIL OVERLOOKING A FOAMING TORRENT. (SEE ARCH CUT IN ROCK) 406 LA MERCEDES 410 THE AVENUE OF EUCALYPTI NEAR THE TOWN OF TARMA (ANDES) 410 ON THE ANDES 412 A STREET OF TARMA 412 THE MARKET-PLACE, TARMA 414 THE HIGHEST POINT WHERE AUTHOR CROSSED THE ANDES BEFORE REACHING THE RAILWAY AT OROYA 416 OROYA 420 OROYA, THE HIGHEST RAILWAY STATION IN THE WORLD 420 IN THE ANDES AT 16,000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA LEVEL 422 THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE OROYA RAILWAY: THE GALERA TUNNEL 422 THE OROYA RAILWAY (A GREAT SPRING EMERGING FROM THE MOUNTAIN-SIDE) 424 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY ON THE PERUVIAN CORPORATION RAILWAY TO CUZCO, PERU 424 A. B. LEGUIA, THE PRESIDENT OF THE PERUVIAN REPUBLIC 426 THE AMERICAN OBSERVATORY, AREQUIPA, AND MOUNT MISTI, PERU 428 ON THE PERUVIAN CORPORATION RAILWAY ON THE WAY TO CUZCO 428 A BEAUTIFUL EXAMPLE OF ANCIENT SPANISH WOOD-CARVING, PERU 432 WONDERFUL EXAMPLE OF OLD SPANISH WOOD-CARVING, PERU 434 ON THE WAY TO CUZCO: RAILWAY BRIDGE PARTLY CARRIED AWAY BY SWOLLEN RIVER 436 GREAT SAND DUNES ALONG THE PERUVIAN CORPORATION RAILWAY TO CUZCO 438 INCA BATH OR FOUNTAIN 438 CUZCO: LLAMAS IN FOREGROUND 440 A FAMOUS INCA WALL, CUZCO. (THE VARIOUS ROCKS FIT SO PERFECTLY THAT NO MORTAR WAS USED TO KEEP THEM IN PLACE) 442 INCA THREE-WALLED FORTRESS OF SACSAYHUAMAN, CUZCO 444 THE INCA TEMPLE OF THE SUN, WITH SPANISH SUPERSTRUCTURE 446 INCA DOORWAY, CUZCO 446 INCA STEPS CARVED IN A DOME OF ROCK, CUZCO. (FORTRESS NOTICEABLE IN THE DISTANCE) 448 THE "ROUND TABLE" OF THE INCAS 452 ENTRANCE TO INCA SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES 452 INCA PLACE OF AMUSEMENT: A TOBOGGAN SLIDE OF ROCK 454 AN INCA GRAVE, BOLIVIA 454 INCA REMAINS NEAR CUZCO 456 WHERE A STONE FIGHT TOOK PLACE IN THE INCA COUNTRY. (NOTICE THE INNUMERABLE ROCKS WHICH HAVE BEEN THROWN DOWN THE HILL FROM THE HIGH INCA STRUCTURE) 458 ENTRANCE TO INCA SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES 458 THE GREAT INCA RUINS OF VIRACCOCHA, IN TINTA (CUZCO) 460 INCA POTTERY, WEAPONS AND ORNAMENTS OF GOLD AND COPPER 464 INCA TOWERS OF SILLISTAYNI, PUÑO (LAKE TITICACA) 468 AN INCA STATUE, BOLIVIA 468 LAKE TITICACA 470 GUAQUI, THE PORT FOR LA PAZ ON LAKE TITICACA 470 ON THE ANDES 474 LLAMAS IN BOLIVIA 476 BORAX DEPOSITS, BOLIVIA 476