Chapter 87

Morad Khan Kella--The horrors of a camera--Seven high dunes--Three tracks--Where the railway will be laid--A fine old tamarisk turned into a Ziarat--Pagoda-like rest-houses--Science _versus_ comfort--Kanak--Afghan women--The Kandahar road--How we butcher foreign names--Quetta and Chaman--The horse fair and Durbar at Sibi--Arrival in Calcutta--The first mishap--The death of faithful Lawah--The end.

There was a ruined fort at Morad Khan Kella, and half a mile off a Beluch village with two towers. Each house had a separating wall extending outwardly. The Beluch is wretched if he is not secluded. The first thing he ever wants to know is the exact extent of his property, then he is quite happy and can live at peace with his neighbours. As folks live more outside their houses than indoors, I suppose such a demarcation of property is necessary. Moreover, people and beasts live in friendly intercourse, and no doubt the beasts, which may be the cherished pets of one man, may be just the reverse to his neighbours. The houses were rectangular and plastered over with mud.

The people here were not quite so friendly as in other villages, and one began to feel the effects of nearing civilisation. Somebody, too, had been at this people with a camera before, for I hardly had time to take mine out of its case before the whole population, which had collected around, stampeded in all directions in the utmost confusion. Only a little child--whom the mother dropped in the hurry-scurry--was left behind, and he was a quaint little fellow clad in a long coloured gown and a picturesque red hood.

We left Morad Khan Kella (5,430 feet) again on February 2nd, along the vast plain which is to be crossed by the future railway from north to south (190°). On nearing the Killi range we came again to some high sand dunes rising in a gentle gradient to 250 feet, their lowest point being to the north, the highest to the south. The plain itself on which we were travelling (stretching from south-west to north-east) rose gradually to 5,650 feet on undulating ground with a number of sand hills, seven high long dunes, and some minor ones.

We then came to a flat plain slanting northwards and with high sand accumulations to the south near the hill range. A rivulet of salt water losing itself in the sand was found next, and then we had to cross a pass 6,020 feet. One obtained a beautiful view of the Mustang Mountains to the south-east with two plains, intersected by a high mountain range between us and them. There were three tracks from this pass. One south-east, called the Mustang track, the other (north-east) the Tiri Road, and one, on which we were travelling, north-north-east (50°) to Kanak. The very high Kuh-i-Maran peak could be seen in the distance to the south-east.

The railway will here follow the river which, coming from Mustang, flows south-west to Panchepoy. Then the line will proceed through the gorge in the mountains to the west. Some few miles from Kanak at the entrance of this gorge were curious cuts in the sand, evidently caused by water. Tamarisk was most luxuriant here.

A small graveyard and a semi-natural Ziarat, formed by a much contorted centenarian tamarisk tree of abnormal proportions, were also to be seen here. The branches had been twisted to form a low doorway leading to a huge grave in the centre of the enclosing oval formed by the old tree and some other smaller ones. Large round stones, as well as palm leaves, brooms, and various implements had been deposited on the grave; while suspended to the tree branches over the doorway hung brass camel-bells and tassels from camel collars.

During that day we had come across a great many Mesjids, either single or in sets of three, and several other Ziarats of no special importance. In the valley of Kanak there were a number of Beluch towns and villages, two at the foot of the Shalkot Mountain and one in each valley to the south of the track.

We made our last halt at the pagoda-like Bungalow of Kanak, a comfortable large, black wood verandah with a tiny dwelling in the centre, whitewashed walls, and a corrugated iron roof. The man who built it was apparently more of a mechanical engineer than an architect, and every detail is carried out on some highly scientific principle which impressed one much after the less elaborate but very practical abodes we had inhabited further east.

Here there was a gate suspended on long iron rods besides the usual hinges, each screw had a bolt at the end, and on proceeding inside, the ceiling was supported on very neat but most insecure-looking wooden bars no thicker than three inches. A most ingenious theory of angles kept up the heavy roof--why it did, Heaven only knows! In contrast to the other bungalows, where we had no glass at all, here we had glass everywhere. One's bedroom door was two-thirds made of the most transparent panes of glass that could be got, and so were the two doors of the bath-room--one leading directly on to the outside verandah. The boards of the floor had shrunk, and between the interstices one got a bird's-eye view of what went on in the underlying room.

A great deal of space and expense has been devoted to outer show and scientific detail, whereas the rooms were small, and unfortunate was the man who tried to occupy the upper room when a fire had been lighted in the chimney of the room below. The bungalow was, however, comfortably furnished, and from its spacious verandah afforded a most magnificent view all round.

The high Chiltan Mountains above Shalkot were on one side, and various picturesque hill ranges stretched across the large plane dotted with a Beluch village here and there.

In front of the entrance gate at the bungalow a nice pool of water reflected in its more or less limpid waters the images of over-leaning leafless trees.

Whatever remarks one may make about the construction of the bungalow it must be confessed that it photographed well. (See illustration facing page 438).

The altitude of Kanak was 5,730 feet.

We made an early start on this our last march, steering between the handsome Takatu Mountain and the Chiltan, between which Quetta lies. We met a number of Afghan women in long, loose black gowns from neck to foot, and silver ornaments round the neck and arms. They had austere but handsome features with expressive eyes.

About six miles from Quetta we struck the wide Kandahar Road at the foot of the Takatu Mountain. From this point we got the first glimpse of Shalkot or Quetta. "Quetta" is the English corruption, abbreviation, or adaptation, if you please, of the word "Shalkot!" One almost wished one could have trembled when one stopped for a moment to read the first notice in English on approaching the town, warning new-comers of the dreadful things that would happen to any one entering the town carrying a camera or found sketching or taking notes!

It came on to snow as we approached the place, and shortly after sunset my caravan entered the neat, beautifully-kept roads of Quetta, and behold, joy!--I heard for the first time since August last the whistle of a railway engine. This was on February 3rd, 1902.

I met with unbounded civility and hospitality from everybody in Quetta as well as at Chaman, our most north-westerly point on the Afghan boundary. For those who believe in the unpreparedness of England, it may be stated that, from this point, we could with ease lay a railroad to Kandahar in less than three weeks.

A most charming invitation from the Honourable the Agent to the Governor-General and Chief Commissioner in Beluchistan, Col. C. E. Yate, C.S.I., C.M.G., etc., took me almost directly to Sibi, where the annual horse show and Beluch Durbar were to take place. A great many locally-bred animals were exhibited, some very good indeed. Camel, horse, and cow races enlivened the show, and a very weird representation of a Beluch raid was performed with much _entrain_. At the Durbar, the leading Chiefs were presented by Col. Yate with handsome gold and silver embroidered coats, waistcoats, scarves and turbans, and the scene was very impressive.

One could not help again being struck by the dignified, manly behaviour of the Beluch on one side, and their frank respect for the British officers,--a respect indeed well-deserved, for a finer set of men in every way than our Political Service Officers can be found nowhere. It is a pity we have not similar men _all_ over India.

From Sibi I travelled by rail across country to Calcutta, where I arrived at the beginning of March, having completed my journey overland--if the short crossing from Baku to Enzeli be excepted--from Flushing (Holland).

It never does to boast. I was feeling somewhat proud to have travelled such a long distance with no serious mishaps or accidents, when, much to my sorrow, Sadek, my Persian servant, returned one evening to the hotel dreadfully smashed up. He had been attacked in the bazaar by three Englishmen of Calcutta, two of whom had held him down on the ground while the third kicked him badly in the head, body and legs. It appears that these three ruffians had a grievance against Persians in general, hence their heroic deed against a man who had done them no harm.

It was indeed too bad to have to register that, in a journey of over 10,000 miles, the only people who had shown any barbarity were--in a sort of way--my own countrymen!

Much as I love Beluchistan, I like India less and less each time I go there. Maybe it is because I always have misfortunes while in the country. Indeed, I received a last and severe blow while proceeding by train from Calcutta to Bombay to catch a homeward steamer. My faithful cat Lawah died, suffocated by the intense moist heat in the carriage. The other two cats I just managed to keep alive by constant rubbing with ice.

From Bombay I despatched Sadek back to Teheran _via_ the Gulf and Bushire, and the two surviving cats and I sailed by P. & O. for England, where we all three arrived happy, safe, and sound.

APPENDIX

Tables Showing the Distance From Quetta To Meshed via Robat, Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan), Birjand.

_Distances from Quetta to Persian frontier._

_Name of Stage._ _Distance._ _Miles._ _Yards._ Quetta to Girdi Talab 16 -- Girdi to Kanak (Taleri) 16 -- Kanak to Morad Khan Kella 24 -- Morad Khan Kella to Kishingi 24 -- Kishingi to Nushki 12 -- Nushki to Mall 31 1,320 Mall to Kuchaki Chah 15 1,154 Kuchaki Chah to Padag 13 756 Padag to Yadgar 22 1,390 Yadgar to Karodak 15 970 Karodak to Dalbandin 16 380 Dalbandin to Chakal 18 190 Chakal to Sotag 14 220 Sotag to Mirui 12 1,320 Mirui to Chah Sandan 20 220 Chah Sandan to Tretoh 23 760 Tretoh to Noh Kundi 21 1,660 Noh Kundi to Mashki Chah 21 1,100 Mashki Chah to Sahib Chah 28 660 Sahib Chah to Mukak 23 660 Mukak to Saindak 13 880 Saindak to Kirtaka 18 750 Kirtaka to Chah Mahommed 16 1,107 Chah Mahommed Raza to Raza Kuh-i-Malek-Siah 24 368

Distances from Robat (Beluchistan) to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan).

Robat to Hormak 18 miles. Hormak to Girdi-Chah 32 " Girdi-Chah to Mahommed Raza Chah 28 " Mahommed Raza Chah to Lutak 12 " Lutak to Baghak 16 " Baghak to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan) 8 "

Sher-i-Nasrya to Birjand, about 12 stages 210 miles. Birjand to Meshed, _via_ Turbat-i-Haidari 277 "

Botanical Specimens Collected by Author in North Beluchistan. (Presented to the British Museum of Natural History.)

_Native Name._ _Agat_ Lornia spinosa. Sch. Bip. _Buju_ Stipa (grass). _Eshwerk_ Rhazya stricta Dec. _Jirri × Jerr_ Artemisia Herba-Alva Asso. _Karkar_ Fagonia Aucheri Boiss. _Kesankur_ Peganum Harmala L. _Kanderi_ (?) Salsola. _Kirri_ Tamarix articulata vahl. _Kul_ } _Drug_ } Phragmites communis Trin. (A reed.) _Kulich' nell_ Cressa cretica L. { Anabasis sp. _Lara_ { Tamarix sp. _Pish_ Nannorhops Ritchieana Wendl. (Palm.) _Sachdonne_ Astragalus sp. ---- Moricandia sp. ---- Alyssum. ---- Cichorium (?). ---- Nerium Oleander L. ---- Convolvulus sp. ---- Salicornia fruticosa L. ---- Suæda monoica Forsk.

INDEX

i. == Vol. I.

ii. == Vol. II.

Abal Kassem Khan, i. 40 Abbas Ali, Camel man, ii. 117 Abbas Ali Khan, British Agent in Birjand, ii. 104 Abdulabad, i. 79 Abid, ii. 19 Accumulations of wealth, i. 120 Across the Salt Desert, ii. 1-89 Afghan-Beluch Boundary, the, ii. 377 Afghan Desert, ii. 309 Invasion, i. 88 Soldiers, ii. 101 Women, ii. 440 Afghanistan, ii. 316 Afghans, ii. 283, 322 African black, an, i. 80 Agdah, i. 371 Agha Baba, i. 51, 73 Mahommed, i. 88 Agha Mahommed's invasion of Persia, i. 449, 450 Ahwaz, i. 340 Ahwaz-Isfahan track, i. 340 Alabaster throne, i. 225 Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, i. 317, 433 Alamut Mt., i. 69 Alexandrovo, i. 3 Aliabad, i. 250 Ali Murat, ii. 24 Alliance Française, i. 171 Alliance Israelite, i. 172 Ambition, i. 126 American interests, i. 95 Amir of Birjand, ii. 94 Sistan, ii. 157 audience of the, ii. 185 Anar, i. 419 Ardakan Mts., i. 372 Ardeshir Meheban Irani, i. 405 Armenian Archbishop, i. 282 men, i. 283 women, i. 283 Armenians, i. 282 emigration of, i. 284 Artillery, ii. 92 Assiabo Gordoneh, i. 374 Astara, i. 27 Astrabad, i. 29, 185 Azerbaijan, i. 185 Azizawad, i. 249

Backhtiaris, i. 341 Badjirs, (Ventilating Shafts), i. 380, 408 Baghih, i. 428 Baku, i. 5, 21 native city, i. 23 Bambis, i. 365 Bandan, ii. 136 Bandan Mts., ii. 136 Bandar Abbas, i. 332 trade of, i. 334 Band-i-Sistan, ii. 227 Banking in Persia, i. 139 Bank-notes, i. 129, 147 Banks, i. 135 Banque d'Escompte et de Prêts, i. 134 Poliakoff, i. 134 Barbers, i. 309; ii. 71 Baths, i. 376 Bazaar, i. 35, 245, 267, 296-312; ii. 27 Beetroot Sugar Company, the, i. 118 Beggars, ii. 30 Behai sect, the, i. 391 Belgian Customs Officers, i. 155, 337 Bellew, ii. 321 Bellows, i. 255 Beluch, ii. 102, 120 Beluch-Afghan Boundary, ii. 308 Beluch bread, ii. 325 chiefs, ii. 420-422 dancing, ii. 305 diet, ii. 417 dress, ii. 418 Durbar, ii. 441 dwellings, ii. 415 fakir, ii. 433 fort, ii. 413 graves, ii. 313, 410, 422 graves, section of, ii. 402 graveyard, ii. 400, 438 greeting, ii. 276 hospitality, ii. 434 huts, ii. 434 implements, ii. 417 love and war songs, ii. 301 marriages, ii. 403 maternal love, ii. 311 Mesjids (or Mazit), ii. 363 music, ii. 296 ornaments, ii. 419 prisoners, ii. 324 religion, ii. 364, 423 rugs, i. 318 salutations, ii. 356 tents, ii. 310 types, ii. 350 weaving looms, ii. 416 Beluchistan, i. 98 Persian, i. 191 subdivisions of, ii. 381 Benn, Major, R. E., British Consul, Sistan, ii. 145, 163, 168, 169, 172 Benn, Bazaar, ii. 150 Biddeh, i. 375 Biddeshk, i. 277 Birjand, ii. 90 citadel, ii. 92 city, ii. 91 commercially, ii. 93 exports, ii. 99 imports, ii. 98 industries of, ii. 97 routes from, ii. 93 ruined fortress at, ii. 90 Biwarzin Yarak range, i. 69 Blackmail, i. 93 Bohemian glass, i. 307 Bokhara, Amir of, i. 25 Bombay Amelioration Society of the Parsees, i. 404 Brahui, ii. 365, 382 Bread, i. 310 making, ii. 259 of camel men, ii. 24 British Bazaar, ii. 151 flag, difficulties of hoisting the, ii. 172 goods, i. 36, 153, 166, 178; ii. 147 India Navigation Company, the, i. 334 Legation, i. 96, 98 staff, i. 98 protection, ii. 95, 153 trade, i. 155, 161 traders, ii. 152 Britishers, i. 143 in Persia, i. 84 Bunjar, ii. 194 Buried city, seemingly, ii. 270 Bushire Company, i. 147 Business principles, i. 120

Cairns, ii. 50, 353 Camel men, ii. 2, 56 devoutness of, ii. 82 riding, ii. 8 Camels, ii. 70, 331, 336 Canals, ii. 255, 320 Capital, i. 120, 140 Customs soldiers, ii. 278 Caravan from Kerman to Quetta, ii. 159 Caravan men, i. 334, 341 Caravans, i. 71 Caravanserais, i. 269, 310, 375; ii. 48, 91 Carriage fares (Resht Teheran), i. 54 Carpet factories, i. 313 Carpets, i. 153, 314 Birjand, ii. 97 Kerman, i. 316, 437 Herat, i. 318 Sultanabad, i. 317 Tabriz, i. 318 Turcoman, i. 318 Yezd, i. 318 Caspian Sea, navigation of, i. 50 steamers, i. 21 Catacombs, i. 14 Cats, intelligence of, ii. 40 Cave dwellers of Nushki, ii. 418 Chagai, ii. 379 Chah-herizek, i. 246 Chah-i-Mardan, ii. 320 Chah Sandan, ii. 356 Chakal, ii. 362 Chaman, ii. 441 Chaman Singh, ii. 150 Chanoh, i. 370 Chap, a Beluch dance, the, ii. 306 Chappar or post-horses, i. 259 Charity, i. 89 Chel-Payeh, ii. 51 Chiltan Mt., ii. 434, 440 Chinese Turkestan, i. 129 Chinese War, the, i. 107 Christianisation, i. 391 Church Missionary Society, i. 390 Churches, i. 17 Churchill, Mr., acting H.B.M. Consul, Resht, i. 61 Civilising agents, i. 167 Clemenson and Marsh, Messrs., ii. 132 Clouds, ii. 112 above the desert, ii. 80 Coachmen, i. 57, 63 Cocoon trade, i. 60 Coin, old and new, i. 133 Coins, i. 237 Cold, ii. 77, 81, 410 Colleges and schools, i. 294 Communication, i. 139 ways of, ii. 160 Compagnie d'Assurance et de Transport en Perse, i. 48 Company promoters, i. 122 Compensating laws of nature, ii. 48 Competition in Birjand, ii. 97 trade, i. 37 Confidence in foreigners, i. 123 Conical temporary graves, ii. 229 Consular postal service, ii. 110 Consulate guard, ii. 178 hospital, ii. 179 mosque, ii. 177 Consulates, i. 162 British, i. 39 Consuls, ii. 108 Copper, i. 276 coin, i. 130, 133 work, i. 267, 305 Cossacks, i. 6, 18, 349; ii. 108, 139 Crater, ii. 134 Credit, ii. 101 Criminals, i. 89 Currency, i. 127 Customs caravanserai, Sistan, ii. 150 officials, ii. 166

Dadi, ii. 235 Dalbandin, ii. 367, 397 routes from, ii. 397 Damovend Mt., i. 243, 255 Dancing, i. 198 Darband, ii. 47 Mt., ii. 42, 44 Daria-i-Nimak (Salt Lake), i. 250 Dearth of coins, i. 130 Deawat, i. 374 Deformities, i. 208, 245 Deh-i-Husena, ii. 251 Dentistry, i. 210 Deschambe bazaar, i. 60 Difficulties of traders, ii. 101 Diseases, ii. 115 Distances from Teheran to Isfahan, i. 280 Drog, ii. 409 Dry river beds, ii. 21, 44, 78, 125 Dunes, i. 355, 373; ii. 255, 281 Duties, i. 156

Ears of Persians, i. 208 Education, i. 143, 386 of Persians, i. 169 Electricity of the Desert, ii. 55, 70, 134 Elongating effects of the desert, ii. 66 England and Russia, i. 162 English education, i. 174 goods, i. 96 Englishman as a linguist, the, i. 177 Enzeli, i. 26, 29 bay, i. 30 Eshwark, ii. 361 Eshwerk, ii. 409 Eternal fires, i. 22 Euphrates Valley Railway, i. 163 European commercial houses, i. 152 Europeans, i. 90 European women, i. 298, 391 Exchange, i. 138

Family graves, ii. 400 Famine, i. 75 Fanatic, ii. 289 Farah Rud, ii. 209 Farmitan, ruins of, i. 447 Farming system, i. 155 Fars Trading Company, i. 147 Farsakh, the, i. 409 Fatabad, i. 456 Fedeshk, the village of, ii. 82 Fever, ii. 32, 48, 53, 85, 115, 117, 135, 183 Fever-stricken, ii. 95 people, ii. 83 Fezahbad, i. 360 Fight between Afghans and Sistanis, ii. 162 Fin Palace, i. 265 Fire temples, i. 399, 452 destruction of, i. 396 worshippers, i. 401 Food for camels, ii. 40 Foreign education, i. 172 exchange, i. 140 speculations, i. 121 Foreigners in Persian employ, i. 155 Fort, ii. 28 Fortress, ii. 135 in ruins, ii. 113 Fossils, ii. 43 Foxes, ii. 71 Fraud, i. 113, 116 Friction, ii. 95 Friday, the day of rest, i. 311 Fruit trees, i. 76 Fuel, i. 377

Garland, James Loraine, i. 286, 288 Gas Company, the, i. 116 Gat Mt., ii. 355, 358 Geographical frauds, i. 332 Geological fault, ii. 411 Georgians, i. 20 German commercial training, i. 177 goods, i. 19, 96, 180 Minister, i. 95 Germany, i. 95, 161, 163 Ghiez, i. 279 Ghilan, i. 184 province, i. 36, 59, 77 Ghilan's trade, i. 36 Ghul Khan, ii. 235 Gigantic rock inscription, i. 453 Girdi, ii. 275, 277 Glass, i. 255 Godar-i-Chah, ruins of, ii. 320 water of, ii. 321 Godar-Khorassunih Pass, ii. 12 God-i-Zirreh, ii. 322 salt deposits (Afghanistan), ii. 316 Golahek, i. 99 Golam Jelami, Dr., ii. 179 Golandeh, ii. 115 Gold, i. 127 coins, i. 132 Goldsmid, Sir F., ii. 321 Goldsmiths, i. 122 Government guarantee, i. 341 of India, i. 161 Grapes, i. 35 Graveyards, ii. 109 Grube, Mr., i. 144 Gullahbad, i. 354 Gurghena tribe, ii. 434 Gyabrabat, i. 269 Gypsum, ii. 332, 333

Hallucination, i. 65 Halmund water, ii. 150 Hamadan, i. 188 Hammam (baths), i. 386, 440 Hamun-i-Halmund, ii. 138, 280 Hand of prophet Nazareth Abbas, the, i. 264 Haoz Panch Caravanserai, ii. 24 Hardinge, Sir Arthur, i. 96, 221 Head Mullah, death of, i. 115 Heat, ii. 38, 39, 51 Hindoo Caravanserai, Kerman, i. 442 Hindoo merchants, i. 426 Hoarding, i. 139 Hodjatabad, i. 377 Holy city, i. 253 Horjins (saddle-bags), i. 303 Hormak, ii. 283, 285 Horse fair, i. 18 Hotels, i. 38, 40, 80, 81, 112 Hotz and Son, i. 135, 152, 154 House of Commons, i. 161 Houses, i. 93, 365; ii. 86, 145, 256 Husena Baba, ii. 253 Husseinabad, ii. 148

Ice store-houses, i. 266, 433 Illuminations, i. 216 Imperial Bank of Persia, i. 43, 90, 127, 135 Importation of arms, i. 320 Imprints, ii. 21 Incorrect maps, i. 331; ii. 23, 140, 142 India, the invasion of, i. 159 Indian pilgrims, ii. 110 tea traders, ii. 153 teas, ii. 156 Indo-European Telegraphs, i. 73, 90, 254, 263, 284 Infanticide, i. 208 Infantry soldiers, i. 115 Inscriptions and ornamentations on Chappar-Khana walls, i. 415 Intermarriage, ii. 65 Investments, i. 124 Iron, i. 276 Isfahan, i. 74, 285 avenue, the, i. 321 bridge, the, i. 285 commercially, i. 330 historical paintings, i. 324 Jewish quarters, i. 286 Madrassah, the, i. 285, 321 palace, the, i. 285, 323 square of, the, i. 296 Iskil, ii. 195 Isphandiar Khan, i. 343 Itinerary of Journey, London to Baku, i. 1-20 Baku to Enzeli, i. 26-28 Enzeli to Resht, i. 29-43 Resht to Teheran, i. 57-80 Teheran to Isfahan, i. 241-280 Isfahan to Yezd, i. 351-380 Yezd to Kerman, i. 408-430 Kerman to Birjand, ii. 1-89 Birjand to Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan) ii. 112-141 Sher-i-Nasrya to Zaidan, ii. 194-232 Zaidan to Kuh-i-Kwajah, ii. 233-250 Kuh-i-Kwajah to Robat, ii. 251-292 Robat to Saindak _viâ_ God-i-Zirreh (Afghanistan), ii. 307-323 Saindak to Quetta, ii. 324-441 Quetta to Calcutta, ii. 441-442 Calcutta to London, ii. 442-443

Jaffarabad, i. 377 Jamsetsji N. Tata, Mr., i. 407 Janja Mt., i. 69 "Jazia" tax, the, i. 403 Jewellers, i. 319 Jews, i. 116, 286, 290, 384 of Isfahan, features of the, i. 292 Jubareh, i. 286 Julfa, i. 282 Europeans at, i. 284 Graveyard, i. 284

Kajar dynasty, i. 88 Kajars, i. 221 Kala Ardeshir (fort), i. 445 Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, i. 443 Kalantar of Sistan, the, ii. 195, 197 Kalaoteh, ii. 10 Kanak, ii. 438 Kanats, i. 75, 353, 355, 371, 379; ii. 28 Kandahar road, ii. 440 Karenghi rirri, ii. 363 Karodak, ii. 408 Karun River, navigation of, i. 340 Kashan, i. 262, 263 Kasvin, i. 48, 51, 73 Manufacturer of, i. 77 rest house, i. 73 Kavkas and Mercury Steam Navigation Company, i. 26 Kawam-ed-douleh, i. 113 Kayani, the, ii. 139 Kehriz Natenz peak, i. 277 _Kerbas_ cloth, i. 77 Kerjawa (litters), i. 247 Kerman, i. 431 British Consulate, i. 432 Cloths and felts, i. 437 Europeans at, i. 432 Garrison of, i. 435 Madrassah, the, i. 439 to Neh, route _viâ_ Khabis, ii. 1 Keshk (cheese), ii. 119 Kevir, the, i. 370 Khafe-Khanas, i. 65 Khale Mandelha, i. 250 Khan of Kelat, ii. 380, 383-394 Kharkoff, i. 18 Kharzan Pass, i. 50 Khorassan, i. 134, 185 Khupah, i. 357 Khuzistan, i. 190 Kiafteh, i. 372 Kiev, i. 12 Kievo-Petcherskaya monastery, i. 14 Killi range, ii. 437 Kirtaka, ii. 312 routes from, ii. 312 Kishingi, ii. 433 Kohrut, i. 271 Dam, i. 270 Kort, i. 72 Kotor, ii. 432 Kran, i. 134, 139 Kuchaki Chah, ii. 410 Kudum, i, 51, 63 Kuh-Benan Mts., ii. 31 Kuh Djupahr, i. 429 peaks, i. 428 Kuh-i-buhlan Pass, i. 272 Kuh-i-Daftan (Volcano), ii. 327 Kuh-i-Kwajah, ii. 235-250 characteristic skulls, ii. 245 Dead houses, ii. 241 Gandun Piran Ziarat, ii. 242 Graves in compartments, ii. 240 Kala-i-Kakaha, city of roars of laughter, ii. 238, 247 legends regarding, ii. 248 Kuk fort, ii. 247 Priests' house, ii. 244 tomb of thirty-eight sections, ii. 242 Kuh-i-Malek-Siah, ii. 282 Kuh-i-Maran, ii. 438 Kum, i. 89, 242, 252 Kundi, ii. 351 Kupayeh Mountains, ii. 7 Kurdistan, i. 189 rugs, i. 317 Kurus peak, ii. 10 Kushkuhyeh, i. 423

Lahr Kuh, ii. 293 Lalun mines, i. 117, 119 Langherut, i. 256 Languages, i. 175 Lascelles, Sir Frank, i. 151 Laskerisha, ii. 309 Lawah, ii. 27 cat, ii. 442 Lawah, tracks from, ii. 27 Lawah's trade, ii. 28 Lead, ii. 327 Leather tanneries, i. 254 Legation guards, i. 100 Legations, i. 95 Leker Kuh range, ii. 21 Lenkoran, i. 27 Levantines, i. 61 Lingah, i. 337 Loaf-sugar, i. 37 Loan, six per cent., i. 152 London Society for promoting Christianity amongst the Jews of Isfahan, i. 286 Stock Exchange, i. 137 Luft-Ali-Khan, i. 450 Luristan, i. 190 Lynch Brothers, i. 342

Maclean incident, the, i. 156 MacMahon, Major A. H., ii. 321, 351, 378, 412 McGregor, Sir Charles, ii. 321, 351 Mahala-Giabr, i. 449 Mahommed Ali Brothers, ii. 151 Azim Khan Brothers, ii. 152 Azin, a descendant of the Kayani, ii. 239, 252 Mahommed Hayab, ii. 152 Raza Chah, ii. 262, 310 Mahommerah, i. 339 trade of, i. 344 Maiden's Tower, Baku, i. 23 Maladministration, i. 131 Malayer and Borujird districts, i. 189 Malcolm, Rev. Napier, i. 389 Malek-Siah, Ziarat, (where three countries meet), ii. 287 Mall, ii. 410 Marble, ii. 345 Market worth cultivating, ii. 157 Massacre of Jews, i. 291 Matsuma Fatima, i. 253 Mazanderan, i. 185 Meftah-el-Mulk, i. 103 Meftah-es-Sultaneh, i. 102 Meh-rab Shrine, i. 264 Meiboh, i. 375 Menzil, i. 68, 69 bridge, i. 51 Meshed horses for remounts, ii. 148 Meshed-i-Sher, i. 29 Meshed, pilgrimage to the sacred shrine of, ii. 95 track to, ii. 73 Mesjids, ii. 403, 433, 438 Miletor, Mr., Belgian Customs Officer, Sistan, ii. 166 Military Drill, i. 112 officers, ii. 92, 103 Political Service, ii. 168 Miller, Mr., Russian Vice-Consul for Sistan, ii. 149 Minerals, i. 188 Mint, the, i. 128 Mirage, i. 260, 355, 373; ii. 356 Mirjawa, track to, ii. 312 Mirui, ii. 359 Mirza Hassan Ashtiani, i. 150 Mirza-Taki-Khan, Assassination of, i. 265 Missionaries, i. 85, 281 Missionary work, i. 389 Misstatements, ii. 166 Model farm, i. 118 Moisture, i. 59 Mol-Ali, i. 70 Money, i. 124 Morad-Khan Kella, ii. 435, 436 Mosques, i. 93, 253, 264, 266, 267, 285, 296 Motor cars, i. 239 Mount Sofia, i. 284 Moving pictures, i. 233 Mudir School, i. 387 Mudonek Ateng Mt., ii. 433 Muht, ii. 113 Mukak, ii. 328 Mullahs, i. 44, 89, 92, 124, 150, 170, 253, 285 Murchikhar, i. 278 Murd-ap, i. 31, 50 Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs, i. 104, 106 Mushki-Chah, ii. 345 Mushroom-shaped Mount, ii. 286 Music, i. 435 Mustang track, ii. 437 Muzaffer-ed-din Shah, i. 138

Naiband Mt., ii. 56, 58, 78 village of, the, ii. 57 villagers, clothes of, ii. 68 Nao Gombes, i. 369 Naphtha, i. 190 Napier, ii. 321 Nasirabad, ii. 139 Nassirabad, i. 261 Native Merchants in Birjand, ii. 98 Natives, troublesome, ii. 61 Naus, Mr., i. 155 Nawar-Chah, ii. 279 New Consulate buildings, ii. 174 Nharui, ii. 382 Nickel coins, i. 131 Nihilists, i. 18 Northern Persia, i. 53, 145, 161 Nose of Persians, i. 210 Nushki, ii. 395, 414-432 Bazaar, ii. 428 Beluch durbar at, ii. 420 Beluch tribes near, ii. 414 Caravanserais, ii. 427 health of, ii. 427 hospital, ii. 427 projected Railway, ii. 429 Tashil, ii. 425 Tashildar, ii. 425 trade of, ii. 428 Traders in, ii. 396 route, ii. 96, 153, 367 Advice to traders, ii. 371 concession to traders by the, ii. 370 evolutions of the, ii. 376 first to travel from London to Quetta by the, ii. 371 forwarding agents by the, ii. 370 game on the, ii. 397 pilgrims by the, ii. 372 post offices on the, ii. 369 railway rebate on freight for goods by the, ii. 370 Rest houses on the, ii. 368 trade of the, ii. 147 traffic on the, ii. 368 travellers by the, ii. 371 water supply on the, ii. 369

Oasis, ii. 56 Observation, i. 174 Officials, i. 113; ii. 86 Oil wells, i. 20, 22 Opium, i. 435 smoking, ii. 29, 83 effects of, ii. 84 Orphans, college for, i. 104

Padag, ii. 409 Paichinar, i. 70 Paintings, i. 229, 236 Palawan (strong man), the, ii. 329 Palm-trees, ii. 28, 136 Parsee, British Subjects in Yezd, i. 405 ceremonies, i. 400 generosity, i. 407 national assembly, i. 405 priests, i. 400 school, i. 388 traders, i. 404 Parsees of India, i. 173 of Kerman, i. 443 fire of the, i. 402 or Guebre (Zoroastrians) of Yezd, i. 394-407 Zoroastrians, i. 383, 449 Pasand Khan, ii. 397 Passangun, i. 257 Passports, i. 31 Patang Kuh, ii. 254 Pearls, i. 237 Persecution, i. 292-295 Persian Army, the, i. 111 cats, ii. 6 Cossack regiment, i. 115, 222 crowds, ii. 110 Customs duty, ii. 167 dancing, ii. 304 dinner, i. 456, 458 expedition against Beluch, i. 435 Gulf, i. 164 Trading Company, i. 135 Imperial Government, obligations of the, i. 138 justice, ii. 189 markets, i. 138, 167 music, ii. 302 musical instruments, ii. 303 officials, i. 102 Question, the, i. 98 soldiers, i. 434 tea market, ii. 154 telegraphs, i. 352, 363, 371 the, as a soldier, i. 111 wedding, i. 193 women's dress, i. 211 jewels, i. 213 out-of-door dress, i. 213 Persia's condition, i. 109 Perso-Beluch frontier, ii. 343 Petroleum express, i. 5 Phillot, Major, H.B.M.'s Consul, Kerman, i. 432; ii. 169 Phonograph, ii. 178 Pigeon towers, i. 352 Pilgrimage for sterile women, i. 455 Pilgrims, i. 15; ii. 73 Pilgrims, Indian, ii. 95 Pipes, i. 308 Piri Bazaar, i. 32 Road, ii. 437 Pish, ii. 358 Pits, ii. 118 Plague, fears of the, ii. 374 Plucky Englishwoman, ii. 173 Policy of drift, i. 164, 340 Political service, ii. 108 Polygamy, i. 192 Portraits of sovereigns, i. 235 Post horses, i. 267, 270, 409, 418 offices, ii. 293 stations, i. 63 Practical Mission work, i. 289 Praga, i. 7 Preece, Mr., British Consul-General, Isfahan, i. 279, 286, 348 Preparing bodies for interment, ii. 401 Prime Minister, i. 223 Princes, i. 67 Prisoners, ii. 426 Protection against heat, ii. 38 Protest, a, i. 150 Punctuality, i. 125, 242 Pusht-i-Kuh, i. 190

Queen Victoria's portrait, i. 232, 235 Quetta, ii. 440 Quivering Minarets, the, i. 328

Rabino, Mr., i. 130, 136, 144 Rafsenju, routes from, i. 425 Rahdari tax, ii. 167 Railway, i. 91 to Kandahar, ii. 441 travelling, i. 20, 55 Railways needed, ii. 148, 169 Rain, ii. 112, 286 Redress, i. 277; ii. 153 Regheth, ii. 330, 334, 358 Registan, ii. 395 Reliability of Sistanis, ii. 161 Religious education, i. 172 Removals, i. 100 Resht, i. 35, 44 Governor-General of, i. 62 Respect of natives, ii. 145, 178 Rest houses, i. 64 in North Beluchistan, ii. 294 Rice, i. 61, 77 Road Concession, the, i. 242 Robat (Beluchistan) frontier post, ii. 291 Garrison needed at, ii. 170 Robbers, i. 270, 273, 277, 361, 410; ii. 73, 122, 135, 352 Rock habitations, ii. 15, 57 sculpture at Shah Abdul Hazim, i. 244 Rostoff, i. 18 Routes, ii. 73 across the Salt Desert, ii. 46 Royal college, Teheran, i. 170 Rudbar, i. 68 Ruins, i. 351, 382; ii. 28 Russia, i. 163 Russian Bank, i. 42, 137, 188 competition, i. 48 Custom House, i. 2 goods, i. 53; ii. 147 Government, i. 129 grant, i. 346 influence, i. 343 line of steamers, i. 337 loan, i. 127 market, i. 167 protective tariff, ii. 156 railway travelling, i. 7 road, the, i. 47, 50 capital employed in construction of, i. 52 tolls, i. 54 roads in Persia, i. 162 tariff, i. 161 tea market, ii. 155 the, i. 143 Vice-Consul, ii. 172 Vice-Consulate, ii. 149 Russia's aim in the Persian Gulf, i. 332 commercial success, i. 182 trade, i. 145, 155 Rustamabad, i. 64 Rustam's house, ii. 264

Sadek, i. 241, 243; ii. 442 Sahib Chah, ii. 334, 337 Sahlabad, ii. 120 Saïd Khan, ii. 295 Saigsi, i. 354 Saindak Mt., ii. 307, 324, 326 Salaam to Mecca, i. 257 Salambar Mt., i. 69 Salare Afkham, H. E., i. 40 Salt and Sand, i. 427 deposits, ii. 24, 119, 124 desert, ii. 36 journey across, ii. 1-89 incrustations, ii. 280 sediments, ii. 21 stream, ii. 75, 78, 129 Sanctuaries, i. 89 Sand bar, i. 374 barchans, ii. 355 formation of, ii. 318 deposits, i. 422 Sand dunes, ii. 408 hills, i. 377; ii. 290, 315, 355, 407 mounts, ii. 260 movement and accumulations, ii. 271 storm, ii. 24 Sara Mountains, i. 361 Sar-es-iap (No. 1), ii. 9 (No. 2), ii. 14 Sar-i-Yezd, i. 410 Sar-tip, the, ii. 162 Sayids, i. 207, 368 Sefid-Rud (River), i. 51, 63 Serde-Kuh (Mts.), i. 414 Servants, i. 86, 241, 420 Shah-Abdul-Azim, i. 91, 118, 244 Shah, an audience of the, i. 219 Shah Rud (River), i. 70 Shah's Anderum or Harem, i. 238 automobile, i. 218 banqueting room, i. 229 birthday, i. 216 country residences, i, 238 favourite apartments, i. 230 Jewelled-Globe room, i. 232 Museum, i. 227 Palace, i, 225 son, the, i. 239 stables, i. 89 Shai, i. 131, 133 Shehrawat, i. 371 Shela (the Salt River), ii. 279 Shemsh, i. 418 Sher-i-Nasrya (Sistan), ii. 140, 142 Sher-i-Rustam (Rustam's city), ii. 263-269 Shiraz wines, i. 191 Shirkuh Mt., i. 373 Shops, i. 35 Siberia, i. 166 Sibi horse fair, ii. 441 Silk, i. 60, 77, 409 carpets, i. 317 Silver, i. 127 coin, drain of, i. 128 purchasing power of, i. 128 coins, i. 132 Sin Sin, i. 260 Sistan, i. 185 Articles saleable in, ii. 158 British influence in, ii. 161 commercially, ii. 157 exports from, ii. 159 Vice-Consulate, history of, ii. 171 Sistan's health and prevalent diseases, ii. 180 transition, ii. 161 Small-pox, i. 70 Société de Chemins de Fer et des Tramways de Perse, i. 91 Prêts de Perse, i. 143 Soh, i. 276 Soldiers, i. 222 Sorag, ii. 409 Sotag, ii. 361 "Spear of the Sultan," the, ii. 352 Speculators, i. 147 Stable of Rustam's legendary horse, ii. 268 Stars and planets, ii. 36, 114 State Bank of St. Petersburg, i. 144 Statistics, i. 62 Stern, Dr., i. 287 Stone pillar, ii. 314 Stuart, Miss, i. 289 Sugar, ii. 98 Sultan Mts., ii. 351 Summer Residences, i. 99 Terraces at Warmal, ii. 255 Sunge (transit due), ii. 395 Sunsets, i. 251; ii. 274 in the Desert, ii. 79 Superstition, ii. 365 Surmah, i. 206; ii. 327 Sweets, i. 302 Sykes, Major, ii. 159, 208, 237

Tabriz, i. 186 Tadji, i. 213 Takatu Mts., ii. 434, 440 Tamarisk (kirri), ii. 262, 312, 353, 359, 361, 438 Teeth of Persians, i. 209 Teheran, i. 79, 87, 184 amusements in, i. 85 etiquette in, i. 85 European quarters in, i. 88 foreigners in, i. 86 "Place du Canon," the, i. 88 social sets, i. 85 "Top Meidan," in, i. 90 Tejerish, i. 99 Tek-chand, ii. 151 Telegraph needed, ii. 169 Telegraphs, i. 98, 139 Temporary consulate, ii. 174 Territorial rights, i. 168 Thefts, ii. 166 Theological college, i. 254, 264 Thirst, ii. 54 Time, i. 125, 142 Tobacco, i. 37 Tobacco Corporation, the, i. 148 Tokrajie Mts., ii. 31 Toman, i. 58, 134 Tower, ii. 45 of silence, i. 378 Trade caravanserais, i. 442; ii. 97 increase in, i. 36 Tramways, i. 91 Transcaspia, i. 128 Treasuring of capital, i. 121 Treaties, sanads and engagements with the Khan of Khelat and other Beluch chiefs, ii. 381-394 Trench, Major G. Chevenix, ii. 144, 169, 172 Tretoh, ii. 353 Tribal feuds, ii. 396 Twilight, i. 251; ii. 80, 275 Types of natives, i. 354, 367; ii. 16, 63, 257

Umar-al-din Khan, a British trader, ii. 97-99

Vanity, i. 122 Vegetation, i. 59, 62 Veziroff Gazumbek, Russian agent, Birjand, ii. 107 Volcanic formation, i. 71; ii. 128 region, ii. 13 Votka, i. 19

Walton, M.P., Mr. Joseph, i. 161 Warmal, ii. 255 Warsaw, i. 5 Water, i. 62, 258, 278, 355, 374, 382; ii. 48, 51, 59, 75, 77, 120, 126, 277, 326, 334, 336, 353, 357, 362, 366, 369 Water-melons, i. 260 Water-skins, ii. 72 Weapons, i. 236, 319 Weaving-loom, i. 366 Webb-Ware, C.I.E., Captain F. C., Political Assistant at Chagai,