Category: Travel Writing

Across China on Foot

_To travel in China is easy. To walk across China, over roads acknowledgedly worse than are met with in any civilized country in the two hemispheres, and having accommodation unequalled for crudeness and insanitation, is not easy. In deciding to travel in China, I determined t...

Chapters

12. Chapter 12

Although the tribes were here then--and in a rawer state even then than they are at the present time--little was known about them, and men had not yet developed the cult of putt...

21. Chapter 21

_Stampede of frightened women_. _To the Eagle Nest_. _An acrobatic performance, and some retaliation at the author's expense_. _Over the mountains to Pu-pêng A magnificent storm...

16. Chapter 16

_Stages to the capital_. _Universality of reform in China_. _Political, moral, social and spiritual contrast of Yün-nan with other parts of the Empire_. _Inconsistencies of cele...

8. Chapter 8

_Szech-wan people a mercenary lot_. _Adaptability to trading_. _None but nature lovers should come to Western China_. _The life of the Nomad_. _The opening of China, and some im...

25. Chapter 25

_The Valley of the Shadow of Death_. _Stages to Tengyueh_. _The River Mekong, Bridge described_. _An awful ascent_. _On-the-spot conclusions_. _Roads needed more than railways_....

17. Chapter 17

_Access to Yün-nan-fu_. _Concentrated reform_. _Tribute to Hsi Liang_. _Conservatism and progress_. _The Tonkin-Yün-nan Railway_. _The Yün-nan army_. _Author's views in 1909 and...

11. Chapter 11

_Digression from travel_. _How rebellions start in China_. _Famous Boxer motto_. _Way of escape shut off_. _Riots expected before West can be won into the confidence of China_....

18. Chapter 18

_Stages to Tali-fu_. _Worst roads yet experienced_. _Stampede among ponies_. _Hybrid crowd at Anning-cheo_. _Simplicity of life of common people_. _Does China want the foreigner...

13. Chapter 13

_Revolting sights compensated for by scenery_. _Most eventful day in the trip_. _Buying a pony, and the reason for its purchase_. _Author's pony kicks him and breaks his arm_. _...

24. Chapter 24

_The mountains of Yün-nan_. _Wonderful scenery_. _Among the Mohammedans_. _Sorry scene at Ch'u-tung_. _A hero of a horrid past_. _Infinite depth of Chinese character_. _Mule fal...

22. Chapter 22

_Peculiar forebodings of early morning_. _A would-be speaker of English_. _The young men of Yün-nan and the Reform Movement_. _Teachers of English_. _Remarks on methods adopted_...

7. Chapter 7

_Beginning of the overland journey_. _The official halo around the caravan_. _The people's goodbyes_. _Stages to Sui-fu_. _A persistent coolie_. _My boy's indignation, and the s...

10. Chapter 10

_Szech-wan and Yün-nan_. _Coolies and their loads_. _Exports and imports_. _Hints to English exporters_. _Food at famine rates_. _A wretched inn at Wuchai_. _Author prevents mur...

20. Chapter 20

_A bumptious official_. _Ignominious contrasts of two travelers. Diminishing respect for foreigners in the Far East_. _Where the European fails_. _His maltreatment of Orientals_...

9. Chapter 9

_Chinese and simplicity of speech_. _Author and his caravan stopped_. _Advice to travelers_. _Farewell to Sui-fu_. _The postal service and tribute to I.P.O._ _Rushing the stages...

19. Chapter 19

_Lu-fêng-hsien and its bridge_. _Magnificence of mountains towards the capital_. _Opportunity for Dublin Fusiliers_. _Characteristic climbing. Crockery crash and its sequel_. _M...

23. Chapter 23

_Stages to the Mekong Valley_. _Hardest part of the walking tour_. _Author as a medical man_. _Sunday soliloquy_. _How adversity is met_. _Chinese life compared with early Europ...

26. Chapter 26

_To Lu-chiang-pa_. _Drop from 8,000 feet to 2,000 feet_. _Shans meet for the first time_. _Dangers of the Salwen Valley exaggerated_. _How reports get into print_. _Start of the...

29. Chapter 29

_Two days from Burma_. _Tropical wildness induces ennui_. _The River Taping_. _At Hsiao Singai_. _Possibility of West China as a holiday resort from Burma_. _Fascination of the...

6. Chapter 6

_Scene at the Rapid_. _Dangers of the Yeh T'an_. _Gear taken ashore_. _Intense cold_. _Further preparation_. _Engaging the trackers_. _Fever of excitement_. _Her nose is put to...

14. Chapter 14

_Yün-nan's chequered career_. _Switzerland of China_. _At Hong-sh[=i]h-ai_. _China's Golden Age in the past_. _The conservative instinct of the Chinese_. _How to quiet coolies_....

3. Chapter 3

_To Ichang, an everyday trip_. _Start from Shanghai, and the city's appearance_. _At Hankow_. _Meaning of the name_. _Trio of strategic and military points of the empire_. _Han-...

2. Chapter 2

_To travel in China is easy. To walk across China, over roads acknowledgedly worse than are met with in any civilized country in the two hemispheres, and having accommodation un...

4. Chapter 4

_Gloom in Ichang Gorge_. _Lightning's effect_. _Travellers' fear_. _Impressive introduction to the Gorges_. _Boat gets into Yangtze fashion_. _Storm and its weird effects_. _Wu-...

28. Chapter 28

_Last stages of long journey_. _Characteristics of the country_. _Sham and Kachins_. _Author's dream of civilization_. _British pride_. _End of paved roads_. _Mountains cease_....

27. Chapter 27

_Travel up the Salwen Valley_. _My motive for travelling and how I travel_. _Valley not a death-trap_. _Meet the Li-su_. _Buddhistic beliefs_. _Late Mr. G. Litton as a traveler_...

5. Chapter 5

The following is a rough list of the principal rapids to be negotiated on the river upward from Ichang. One of the chief discomforts the traveler first experiences is due to a t...

15. Chapter 15

The second part of my trip was from almost the extreme east to the extreme west of Yün-nan--from Tong-ch'uan-fu to Bhamo, in British Burma. The following was the route chosen, o...

1. Chapter 1