CHAPTER XXXI.

SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK.

A ride down the bay (June 8th), through San Mateo and Menlo Park, some fifty miles to San Josè, completed my wanderings on the Pacific Coast. The air at San Francisco, fresh from the ocean, was raw and rasping; but at San Josè, sheltered by the Coast Range, the thermometer measured over twenty degrees warmer, and the valley there seemed sleeping in summer. The whole ride by railroad is through farms and gardens, and San Josè itself we found embowered in roses and foliage. Here are old Spanish convents and churches, with their surroundings of vineyards, fig-trees, orange-groves, etc., as at Santa Barbara and Los Angelos--only better preserved--and the ride thither is a favorite excursion for San Franciscans and strangers. The sleepy old town is in vivid contrast, with the rush and whirl of the Golden Gate; and its soft and delicious air proves a soothing balm, to the invalid and the weak. A fair hotel furnished good entertainment, and the place seemed indeed like a haven of rest, after "roughing it" so in the interior.

Returning to San Francisco, the last farewells were said, and June 10th, at 11 A. M., the good steamer _Constitution_ bore us away for Panama. We had spent six months on the Coast, and would fain have remained longer, especially to visit the "Geysers." But my official work was ended; and besides, I was in receipt of private letters, that required my presence East. The 10th was "steamer-day"--still a recognized event in San Francisco. All business ended then; and from then, began again. There was a bustle about the hotels, and an air of importance everywhere. Hundreds thronged the vessel and wharf, to see their friends off, and tarried till the last moment. But, prompt to the minute, the _Constitution_ cast loose, and rounding into the stream, was soon heading down the bay, for the Golden Gate and the Pacific. Past Alcatraz and Angel Island, past Fort San Josè and Fort Point, we reached the bar, and crossed it in a chopping sea, that soon sent most of the passengers to their berths.

In San Francisco, the sun shone bright as we steamed away, but the air was raw and chilly like our later autumn;[29] and once out at sea, we found an overhanging mist, that often deepened into a winter fog. This uncomfortable weather continued for a day or two, keeping most of the passengers below deck--many of them sea-sick; but as we passed down the coast, the weather gradually moderated, and soon we were sailing beneath perfect skies, over, indeed, "summer seas." The rest of the way down, what a superb voyage it really was! Looking back on it now, it seems rather a grand picnic excursion, than a _bona fide_ journey by sea. The ocean, in the main, proved itself truly Pacific. We were very seldom out of sight of land by day. The purple, and crimson, and golden hues of the Coast Range, were a perpetual wonder and delight. Schools of porpoises, and now and then a vagrant whale enlivened the day; and the phosphorescent waves, wide-spreading from our wake, made our track a blaze of fire by night.

And what skies those were! By day, "deeply, darkly, beautifully blue;" by night, one blaze of flaming stars. It was the very luxury of travel--the very poetry of locomotion. Sometimes I would lie for hours on deck, breathing in the balmy air, watching the gulls and frigate-birds as they hovered in our wake, or gazing on far-off hill and mountain, as the shore opened up before us--losing all sense of thought and action, content solely with being. Even novel-reading sometimes seemed a task, and writing a great burden. And when evening came, we would sit and talk far into the night; or, leaning over the guards, would watch the stream as of liquid fire, that boiled, and curled, and rippled away beneath us.

As we got farther down the coast, the climate became warmer; but blue-flannels and white-linens in place of winter-woolens, rendered this endurable, and indeed the change from temperate to tropic--from latitude 38° to 7°--did not seem so great after all, barring the first day or two out from San Francisco. Some, however, who had not provided themselves with such changes of clothing, complained bitterly of the heat and lassitude, though most of us got on very well. We had a thunderstorm one night, and a stiff rain next day, when well down the Mexican coast; but otherwise were favored with uninterruptedly fine weather.

From San Francisco to Panama is somewhat over three thousand miles, and we were fifteen days in making it. Our steamer was a fine specimen of her class, with a burden of 3,500 tons, and a carrying capacity of eleven hundred passengers, besides freight. She measured three hundred and forty feet in length, by forty-five feet in beam, and her great deck morning and evening was a rare promenade. Of passengers, we had only about four hundred; so that all had state-rooms, and to spare. We carried our own beef, and mutton, and poultry, to be slaughtered as wanted; and our fare, as a whole, was excellent and generous. Our company, it must be confessed, was rather heterogeneous, but altogether was social and enjoyable. We had army officers and their wives, going east, on leave or transfer; a U. S. Consul from the Sandwich Islands, _en route_ to Washington, on public business; Englishmen from Hong Kong, bound for New York or London; merchants, bankers, and gamblers from San Francisco; red-shirted miners from Nevada and Arizona; and women of all sorts, from fine ladies and true mothers, to dulcineas of dubious character. The general decorum, however, was above criticism; and on Sundays, when a San Francisco divine held service, all were attentive listeners, notwithstanding his High-Church absurdities. The morning promenade on deck, and the evening smoke on the guards, were the great occasions for conversation, and all enjoyed them to the full.

Our first stopping-place was at Cape St. Lucas, the extreme point of Southern California, where we put off two passengers, and took on none. Thence, we crossed the mouth of the Gulf of California, and halted at Manzanillo, Mexico--a little hamlet of two or three hundred souls, the sea-port of the fine town of Colima, some seventy-five miles inland. Here we put off a hundred tons of freight, intended for the interior, and spent several hours. Eight days out, we reached Acapulco, the chief Mexican port on the Pacific Coast, and world-famous in other days, when Spain bore rule here. The harbor is perfectly land-locked, with bold islands off the mouth and deep water close in shore, and here ought to be a great and puissant city. From San Francisco down, not counting San Diego, this is the first really good harbor; and here is the great route for trade and travel, across Mexico, _via_ the capital and Vera Cruz, to the Atlantic. Yet we found only a squalid town of two or three thousand inhabitants, mostly half-negro and half-Indian, with a trace of the Spaniard here and there mixed in. A handful of Americans and Germans controlled the business of the town; and as for the rest--they seemed to be a lotus-eating, inert race, not inaptly denominated "greasers." A general look of decadence prevailed everywhere; and if this be a sample of Mexican civilization, after a trial of two centuries, or more, alas for its future! Not a single wagon-road led from the town inland, in any direction; and the only means of transit, to or from the interior, was by horse or mule-back, over winding mountain-trails, the same as in the days of Cortez.

We reached there June 18th, soon after breakfast; and had scarcely rounded to, before the Philistines were--not exactly upon, but--around us. They swarmed about our vessel in bum-boats and dug-outs, of all shapes and sizes, tendering oranges, limes, bananas, shells, etc., for a consideration--sending them up the ship's sides by a cord and tiny basket, trusting us to return the agreed-for coin. When these failed to please, they paraded their skill as swimmers and divers, plunging under like ducks when a coin was tossed overboard, and sure to catch it before it reached the bottom. With little or no clothing, except about the loins, and often not that, they seemed to be an amphibious sort of creatures--equally at home on land, or sea.

As we were to spend several hours here, taking in coal and water to last to Panama, many of us embraced the opportunity to go ashore and see something of the town. When we touched the beach, comely maidens of coffee-colored complexion met us, with baskets and strings of shells, to any of which we were heartily welcome, provided we paid well for them. They always tender their wares as a "gift," a trick of Acapulco's, as also of Manzanillo's and Panama's; but they invariably expect more than their real value, in return. Passing on, we found the town to consist of one-story adobes, with streets hardly more spacious than good foot-pavements East, and with little business to speak of, except what the tri-monthly steamers supplied. The stores were chiefly baskets or boxes on the side-walks or street-corners, and even these were in charge of women, while the lazy-looking men "loafed" or lounged in the shade, sipping their aguardiente or whiffing their cigarritos with infinite content. The flocks of children, from infants to half-grown youths, were usually guiltless of raiment, and all seemed supremely happy, if only sucking an orange or munching a banana.

All gazed at Los Americanos with good-natured curiosity, and a score were eager to show us to the U. S. Consulate, which was already well-designated by the Stars and Stripes drooping idly from its staff. The Consul himself, unfortunately, was absent; but his deputy, Mr. Sutter, gave us kindly welcome, and we spent an instructive hour, listening to his stories of Mexican life and manners. From there, we went to the rude church or "cathedral," on the plaza; and found in its tawdry ornaments and doll-like images--its wax-figure Christs, its tissue-paper angels, and pewter amulets--an easy explanation of the ignorance, and squalor, and stagnation of this people. The fat and jolly priest suspended his devotions, to sell us pewter charms (he swore, by the Virgin, they were silver!) that would insure us against fever and shipwreck on the voyage; and afterwards he invited us round to take a sip of aguardiente and see his favorite game-cock. Thence, we strolled down the beach, between rows of palms and bananas, to the old Spanish fort, and found it a solid and substantial structure still, though a century or two old. True, it would not stand long before one of our modern monitors; but it was a fine work in its day, and showed well yet. A company or two of dirty and ragged soldiers constituted the garrison--their uniforms heterogeneous, and their arms really worthless. We sent our compliments to the commanding officer, hoping to gain an entrance; but he was absent, and his pompous subordinate declined to admit such Northern barbarians.

Returning to the _Constitution_, late in the afternoon we bade good-bye to Acapulco; and thence, following the trend of the continent, across the gulf of Tehuantepec, by Guatemala, by San Salvador, by Nicaragua, by Costa Rica, and finally by New Granada, at last, on the morning of June 25th, we cast anchor at Panama. During all of this week's sail, we were hardly ever out of sight of land, and usually were so near, that we could note the flocks and herds, the houses and trees, and rich luxuriance of this tropical coast generally, as we glided by. Lofty mountain-ranges and cone-shaped peaks--old volcanoes now extinct, rising thirteen thousand and fourteen thousand feet above the sea--were generally in view by day; and at night fitful lightnings, playing apparently from peak to peak, often lit up the whole heavens.

Here at Panama, the key of two continents and two oceans, we again struck the busy currents of modern life, though but little belonged to the natives there. The broad bay itself, with its shapely islands of perpetual green, crowned with the ever-graceful palm and banana, was a delightful scene, tropical thoroughly; but here also were lines of busy steamers, from Chili and Australia, as well as California, and the old harbor gave multiplied signs of life and energy. The railroad to Aspinwall, costly as it was, both in life and treasure, opened up a pathway across the Isthmus to the commerce of the world, and Panama stands at the gate. In another land, or with a better people, she would soon become a mighty metropolis. But we found her much like Acapulco, though with broader streets, better houses, and more population. I believe she claimed four or five thousand inhabitants then; but they were chiefly a mixed race, in which the most of what is really valuable in humanity seemed to be dying out. They had no public schools, and scarcely knew what popular education meant. Their churches, venerable only for their age, but in this dating back to the Spanish conquest, were crumbling to ruins. Their religion was only an ignorant superstition or savage fanaticism. And their government, so-called, was in a state of chronic revolution, so that nobody seemed to know when it was _up_ or _down_. Of course, the real business of the town was in the hands of foreigners--chiefly Americans, Germans, and English--and these "pushed things," with much of their wonted skill and energy, notwithstanding the climate. The natives, as a rule, contented themselves with driving a petty traffic in parrots and shells, oranges and bananas; and literally swarmed around us, until we were weary alike of their clamor and dirt.

We reached Panama, as I have said, early in the morning, but did not get off for Aspinwall until about noon. All this time was spent in disembarking passengers, with their baggage, and fast freight; but, at last, the impatient locomotive whistled "up brakes," and we moved slowly off. The ride across the Isthmus is fifty miles, and is usually made in two or three hours; but half-way across, a baggage-car broke down, and we were detained four hours in an impenetrable jungle. It had rained that morning at Panama, and the sun was still obscured; but the air was dense with heat and moisture, that hung as if in strata and folds about you, without a breath to disturb them--and to say we steamed and sweltered, during those four long hours there, would only half express our perspiring experience. All along the road, there was a tropical luxuriance and splendor, which no word-painting can describe, and here in this jungle both seemed to culminate. What we in a sterner clime grow in hot-houses and conservatories, as rare exotics, there rioted in the open air, as well they might, and all nature seemed bursting with exuberance and richness. Underneath, grasses and shrubbery so dense, that only the machete could clear the way, or keep them under. Overhead, the lordly palm and gracious banana, with flowering vines, pendent, interlacing, creeping, and twining everywhere. Bread-fruit and bananas hung everywhere, in clusters as big as half-bushel baskets; and here and there, birds of brilliant plumage flitted to and fro, fit denizens with the chattering monkeys, and screaming parrots, of such a wilderness. The whole ride, indeed, through the heart thus of the tropics, after all, was a rare experience; and the transition from the steamer to the railroad, notwithstanding the heat, a welcome change.

The railroad itself seemed well built, and fairly managed. It was said, indeed, to rest literally on human bodies, so many poor fellows perished in the deadly miasmas, while constructing it. The ties and sleepers were of lignum-vitæ, and the telegraph poles of terra-cotta or cement, as nothing else would withstand the insects and moisture of the Isthmus. The stations were well apart, and seemed maintained solely for the convenience of the road, as hardly a passenger got off or on, except employés of the company. We could see the natives, as we passed along, lolling in their hammocks, or stretched out on mats, in their rude huts of poles and palm-leaves; and their herds of children ran everywhere at will, as naked as when born. Sometimes, a few of the inhabitants clustered about a station; but as a rule, this required too much effort, and they preferred to take their _dolce far niente_ in their huts. The taint of the Spaniard seemed to be over them all; or, else, nature was too kindly to them, removing all incentive to exertion, by omitting the necessity for it.

We ran into Aspinwall at 6 P. M., and remained there until 8 P. M. We spent the time in exploring the town, but found little to interest any one. It had no storied past, like Panama; and its future depended on--Pacific Mail. Some found cheap linens, wines, and cigars, as Aspinwall was a free port, and laid in a stock for future consumption, to the damage of our Customs Revenue. But the most of us were sated and weary, with the day's rare experiences, and were glad when the steamer's bell rang "All aboard!" Our High-Church chaplain proved to be our only really useful man, at Aspinwall, after all. He married a couple, while we halted there; and would have married another, had there been time. Both had been waiting several weeks, much-enduring souls--Aspinwall, it seems, not affording a minister.

Our complement of passengers had been swelled, by accessions from Valparaiso and Melbourne; and hence, from Aspinwall to New York, we were rather overcrowded. Our good ship _Rising Star_ was staunch and sea-worthy; but without the roomy accommodations of the _Constitution_, or her thorough appointments. Her beef and mutton were all brought from New York on ice, to last for a twenty-day's voyage to Aspinwall and back; and, before we reached New York, were not like Cæsar's wife--above suspicion. But, on the whole, there was little to complain of; and the ship's officers certainly did their utmost, to make everybody content and comfortable.

Our route to New York, distant about two thousand miles, lay across the Caribbean Sea, and thence off the eastern terminus of Cuba, through the West Indies, home. We had some rough weather, with continuous thunder and lightning, as it seemed, for a day or two, while crossing the Caribbean. But, once past that, we entered a region of blue skies and balmy breezes, and sighted New York in eight days from Aspinwall. We passed Cuba so near, that her green hills and mountains seemed within a stone's throw; and, threading the West Indies, struck the Gulf Stream, whence both steam and current hurried us forward. We reached Sandy Hook at sundown, July 3d, where they quarantined us till morning, much to our disgust. But the 4th broke gloriously, over city and bay; and amid ringing bells, and firing cannon, and fluttering bunting, we steamed proudly up the harbor--it never seemed so magnificent before--and touching the pier, thus ended our journey.

To land on such a day seemed a fit conclusion, to such a twelve-month's ramble, across the continent and over the seas; and that evening at home, surrounded by loving friends, seemed doubly dear from the long absence and safe return. How much we had seen of the Great Republic--only a little can be told here! How it enlarged, and dignified, one's conception of the Fatherland! What a magnificent country we really have--washed by two oceans, crowned with mountains, and gemmed with lakes; and yet, evidently, it is only a prophecy of that Greater America, when we shall occupy the continent, from the Arctic down to the Isthmus, with teeming millions, and convert the Pacific practically into a Yankee sea. Well might Whittier, our truest seer, melodiously sing:

"I hear the tread of pioneers, Of nations yet to be; The first low wash of waves, where soon Shall roll a human sea."

And, best of all, over all this broad land, there shall then be but one flag and one freedom, one law and one liberty, one Right and one Justice, for us and for all men--wherever born and of whatever faith, however poor or however humble. And _to_ this end, and _for_ this purpose, let us, and all who love the English-speaking race, if not mankind, sincerely pray, God save the Republic!

In conclusion, let me add, to the many friends we met everywhere _en route_, for their numberless kindnesses and unstinted courtesies, we were much indebted; and I would gratefully record my sense of this here. Nobler souls, more generous spirits, than most of the people we encountered, especially in Colorado and California, never breathed; and here is good fortune to them, one and all, wherever they may chance to be! Surely, they have fought a good fight, in their rough life on the border, preparing the way for civilization, and deserve well of their country and their kind.

But, all things must end--this volume included; and so, O reader, in the vernacular of the Coast, "_Adios_," and good-bye!

TRENTON, N. J., _March_, 1874.

FOOTNOTE:

[29] The evening before, I saw ladies at the opera, with their winter furs on.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

On page 51, I speak of the Plains as the great stock-raising and dairy region of America, in the future. As some evidence of how fast this prophecy is becoming fact, I append the following extracts from an article by Dr. H. Latham, in the _Omaha Herald_ of June 5, 1870:

"_Demonstrated Facts._--The season of 1870 has been a memorable one in the stock business on the Plains. It commenced in doubt, but closes with unlimited confidence in the complete practicability and profits of stock-growing and winter grazing.

"_Increase of Cattle in the West._--The number of cattle in the country west of the Missouri River and east of the Snowy Range, is now double, if not four times larger than in 1869. Its present magnitude and future prospects entitle it to a full share of public attention.

"_Shipments of Beef to Eastern Markets._--Two years ago our beef and cattle were brought from the East. To-day, cattle-buyers from Chicago and New York are stopping at every station on our railroads, and buying cattle in all our valleys for Eastern consumption. It is safe to predict that 15,000 head of beeves will be shipped from our valleys East the present season. During the past week I have visited some of the great herds on the Plains, and will give your readers an account of them.

"_The Great Herds._--The herds of Edward Creighton, Charles Hutton, and Thomas Alsop, are grazed on the Big Laramie, which is a tributary of the North Platte. The Laramie Valley is between the Black Hills and the Medicine-Bow Range. It is about one hundred miles long and thirty miles wide. It is about midway in this valley, and six miles from the railroad station at Laramie, that these gentlemen have located their stock ranches. They have extensive houses, stables, and corrals. As we leave the station on a beautiful August morning (which is characterized by the clearest of blue skies and golden sunlight), you see Mount Agassiz directly in front of you, while Mount Dix and Mount Dodge, with snow-covered tops, are respectively on the right and left.

"We follow up the Laramie on a smooth road, which is like rolling the wheels over a floor. We follow the windings of the stream, which is clear as crystal, and pure as the snow from which its waters have just come. We first come to a herd of 4,000, half and three-quarter, breed cows; that is, there are none more than one-half Texan, and many only one-fourth. They are known among cattle dealers as short-horned Texas cattle. There are 3,600 calves in this herd, that are from three-eighths to one-half Durham. These cows have been here on the Plains one winter and two summers. All the dry cows are exceedingly fat, and many of the cows, with calves by their sides, are good beef. In this herd are many two-year-olds and yearlings, all fat for the butcher, so far as their condition is concerned. In all this herd there are as many as 9,000 head of cattle--4,000 cows, 3,600 calves, 1,000 two-year-olds, and 500 yearlings.

"_Their Habits._--They range over a country fifteen by twenty miles. The cows and calves run together the year around, and, in fact, are never separated, but run in families of four, generally, cow, calf, yearling, and two-year-old. They are to be found on the river bottoms in the middle of the day, where they had come about 11 o'clock for water. They return about 4 o'clock in the afternoon to the high grounds, where the rich bunch and the nutritious gramma grasses are abundant, and feed till night, and lie down on the warm sandy soil till next morning, when they feed till the heat of the day. It is interesting to see the habits of these cattle when unrestrained by herders. They travel back and forth to the water and grazing-ground in families and little herds, in single file, like their predecessors of the soil, the buffalo, forming deep paths, or trails, like them. After having spent three or four hours looking at this herd, we pass up the river to the beef herd, which consists of 3,500 fat Texas cattle, in the very highest order at which grass-fed cattle arrive in this world. These cattle have been here one or two seasons, and will weigh, upon an average, live weight, 1,300 pounds. They could all be sold to-day for Eastern markets at good figures. They have yet three months of good weather to fatten this season, when, with 5,000 more, bought by these enterprising men, and on their way here, they will be sold East, or slaughtered and sent East in the quarter.

"There is, still higher up the stream, and nearer the mountains, a stock herd of yearlings and two-year-olds, that occupy our time for an hour or two.

"_Blooded Stock Cattle._--Then we cross over to Sand Creek, a small branch of the Laramie, and see the herd of American cattle, which, including Hutton's and Alsop's, numbers 400, mostly cows. They are as fine stock as can be found anywhere. Among this herd are several fine-graded Durham bulls, and two thoroughbreds that were bought in Ohio at high prices. These parties are owners of 300 blooded bulls, from which the finest calves are being raised by the cross between them and the graded Texan cow. It is interesting for the stock man to see these calves, which show the Durham so clearly in every instance--another proof of the general law that the stronger and better blooded of the two races will give form and impress to the progeny. This fact is remarkably illustrated in these herds--the second and third crosses leaving no trace of the Texan blood.

"Here, on this ranch, are 300 brood mares, and some young stock, yearling and two-year-old colts, which have been raised here, and have never been fed nor sheltered. They are as large and fine colts as are raised anywhere. These brood mares and colts are herded, but never stabled nor fed winters.

"_Sheep._--We next proceed to these flocks of sheep, which in all number more than 10,000 head, besides the lambs--of these there are 3,000--making in all 13,000. Some of these are from New Mexico, but the great majority are from Iowa, and are fine Merino sheep. They will average fully five pounds of wool per head. Ample shelters have been provided them in case of storm. Much the larger number of these flocks are ewes. The owners expect to raise 6,000 lambs, and to shear 65,000 pounds of wool next year.

"These parties have about five miles of fence, inclosing hay grounds, pastures for riding stock, and other purposes. They have, in all, more than $300,000 invested here, which is a sufficient commentary upon their enterprise, foresight, and courage. They are the great stock princes of the mountains. Of all living men they have done most to solve this question of winter grazing.

"We next proceed to the Little Laramie, where Messrs. Mautle & Bath have 400 head of American and half-breed stock; they are at the old stage-road crossing, and have some fine blooded stock. Above them, behind Sheep Mountain, directly under the white top of Mount Dodge, named after General Dodge, on the head of the Little Laramie, is a valley twenty miles long and ten miles wide, divided about equally by the north, middle, and south forks of that stream. These are rapid running streams that never freeze in winter. They have groves of timber on their banks and bottom lands furnishing shade in summer and shelter in winter. This valley is a pocket in the mountains, having only one point of ingress, and no egress but by the same way. Here are 2,900 cattle owned by Lambard & Gray, of New York, Captain Coates of the Army, and the subscriber. Three men are able to herd them, from the nature of the valley, and it is certainly a cattle paradise. Of this herd, 1,200 are cows, 700 two-year-olds, 300 yearlings, and 700 calves. This stock is short-horned Texan, and a good lot of stock cattle.

"_Iliff's Herds on Crow Greek._--After leaving this herd, we take a three-hours' run on the railroad, which takes us across the Black Hills to Cheyenne, which is the headquarters of J. W. Iliff. His cattle range is down Crow Creek to the Platte, twenty to thirty miles. On this grazing ground he has 6,700 cattle, classed as follows: 3,500 beeves, 2,000 cows, and 1,200 calves. The stock cattle are half-breeds, except yearlings and calves, which he has raised, and which show the Durham cross. The beeves are heavy, fat cattle, ranging in live weight from 1,200 to 1,400 pounds. This whole range down Crow Creek, from Cheyenne to the Platte, affords the best of grasses, and the creek bluffs shelter the stock completely from storms. Mr. Iliff has been the owner of great herds of cattle in the last twelve years, and is firm in the faith that this is the place to raise beef for Eastern markets. His cattle have sold in Chicago market from five to six cents per pound, live weight, this season. The whole 3,500 head of beeves will be shipped East this fall. Mr. Iliff is another of those who have demonstrated to the world that we have winter grazing, and in so doing he has made a fortune. Long may such men live to enjoy their fortunes!

"On the other side of the Platte, on the Bijou, are the herds of the Patterson Brothers, Reynolds, and John Hitson. These herds number 8,000 head of cattle, 6,000 of them being beef-cattle. The Patterson Brothers are great cattle-raisers and dealers. They own ranches on the Arkansas River, at Bent's Old Fort, and on the Pecos River, below Fort Sumner, in New Mexico. They have handled hundreds of thousands of dollars' worth of cattle in the last five years.

"John Hitson is another of the great cattle-raisers and dealers in New Mexico. His herds are numbered by the thousands. His operations are transferred to Colorado now, and so are those of the Patterson Brothers. On Box-Elder Creek, which is a branch of the Caché la Poudre, is the ranch and stock range of Mr. Whitcombe, an old settler of Colorado. He has 2,000 stock cattle and some fine blooded bulls. This range and shelter are perfect.

"Reed & Wyatt, on the Platte, nearer Denver, have 1,000 head of stock and beef cattle. They are about adding largely to their number.

"Farwell Brothers, Greeley, have 200 head of fine American cattle.

"Baily, on the south side of the Platte from Greeley, has 400 head of Durham and Devon stock, and 2,000 sheep.

"Geary, on the Platte, has 300 head of American cattle.

"The Lemons, at Greeley, have 400 head of American stock. In this neighborhood, Ashcraft has 400 head of American cattle; Munson has 800 head of cattle and 3,000 sheep. Up the Caché la Poudre are twenty large stock-raisers.

"On the Big and Little Thompson's there are some five herds of blooded stock.

"After you leave Evans and go south towards Denver, the whole country seems one pasture covered with stock. I travelled over this same ground in 1869, and I am sure there are fully three times as many cattle here now as then. There are hundreds of farmers on the Lone-Tree Creek, Caché la Poudre, Big and Little Thompson's Creeks, St. Vrain's, and many other streams which flow from the mountains to the Platte, who have from one hundred to one thousand head of cattle, a description of whose herds and grazing grounds would take too much space in an article of this kind.

"_Shipments of Cattle West._--Colorado has sold an immense number of cattle this season to Montana, Idaho, Nevada, and Utah. It is safe to say that Montana will receive twenty thousand head of cattle during the season of 1870, four-fifths of which are from Colorado. Many have gone to Utah, Nevada, and Idaho from the same source, and yet, ten years ago, the commercial and stock-growing people of the East did not know that Colorado contained a thousand acres of grass land. To-day they have no idea of the magnitude of her grazing resources.

"Leaving Colorado, we find some herds along the base of the Black Hills.

"_North of Cheyenne._--H. Kelly, on the 'Chug,' has 500 stock cattle. He sold 100 head of American beeves at $70 per head.

"Messrs. Ward & Bullock, at Fort Laramie, have 200 head of American cattle.

"Adolph Cluny, so long a resident on the North Platte, has a herd of 1,000 stock cattle between Forts Laramie and Fetterman.

"Between Cheyenne and Sidney, on the line of the railroad, there are several small herds. At Sidney are the Moore Brothers, who have 12,000 sheep and lambs, and 1,400 cattle; 400 of the latter are American and very fine. The sheep sheared an average of five pounds of wool per head last spring. They are graded Merinos, and are in fine condition. There is no disease among them. The Moore Brothers were ranchmen on the South Platte, prior to the day of railroads, and are about returning to that stream for grazing. Their place is the Valley Station of olden fame on the stage road. Above them, on the Platte, at the old 'Junction,' Mr. Mark Boughton has 2,500 stock cattle. He has as fine a cattle range as there is in the world, not excluding the Pampas of South America nor table-lands of Australia.

"Farther down the Platte, at O'Fallon's Bluffs, on the north side of the South Platte, Creighton & Parks have 3,500 stock cattle, 400 of which are Durhams. They range twenty miles up and down the Platte. Near them, below, is the herd of Mr. Keith, of North Platte Station, who has about 1,000 head.

"Mr. M. H. Brown has 500 head of stock cattle and beeves near the same place.

"Across the Platte, in the neighborhood of Fort McPherson, the Bent Brothers have 1,000 head of stock cattle, and will add another 1,000 the present season.

"Messrs. Carter & Coe have a large herd near there, which numbers near a thousand.

"Mr. Benjamin Gallagher has 1,200 head at the old Gilman ranch, twelve miles from McPherson.

"_Progress this Season._--More real progress has been made in stock matters west of the Missouri this season than in all time before. We have not only added to the numbers of our herds and flocks, but we have given confidence to all our stock-growers and to Eastern people in the permanency and profit of grazing in the Trans-Missouri country.

"We are now in easy reach of Eastern markets. The railways are landing the heaviest cattle in Chicago from the Rocky Mountains at $9 and $10 per head; we can sell thousands and tens of thousands annually to the Pacific slope, and there is still an all-absorbing home demand to stock our thousands of valleys.

"_The Future._--As every country in the West receives a new emigrant, and his plow turns the grass under, that corn and wheat may grow in its stead, the range of the stock-grower is that much contracted, and the area of grazing lessened. By reason of the high value of lands for grain-growing purposes the people of the country east of the Mississippi River are already coming to us for beef and mutton. Chicago and New York people are enjoying the juicy steaks from cattle fattened on our nutritious grasses that grow in our valleys and on our mountain-sides, close up to the perpetual snows of the Rocky Mountains.

"As immigration takes up more and more of the pastures east of us for grain, drovers will be obliged more and more to come to us for beef. Texas, the great hive of cattle, has received three hundred thousand settlers this season. The grazing area of that State has been lessened at least a million acres thereby. Everywhere events point to this Trans-Missouri country as the future dependence of the East for wool, beef, mutton, and horses."

* * * * *

PAGE 60.--The following article, clipped from the _New-York Times_, contains so much valuable information, bearing on the question of Irrigation, as related to the Plains and the great Internal Basin of the Continent, that I venture to insert it here. It seems to be a careful _resumé_ of the facts that were brought before the notable Convention of Governors and others, that met in Denver in the autumn of '73, to consider the question of a general and comprehensive system of irrigation for all that region:

WATER SUPPLY FOR THE GREAT PLAINS REQUIRED.

_Correspondence of the New-York Times._

DENVER, Colorado, Friday, Oct. 17, 1873.

It is a fact, perhaps not generally considered, that the ninety-ninth meridian of longitude west from Greenwich, the meridian of Fort Kearney on the Platte, and Fort Hays, marks a division line in the physical geography of the continent. Here the prairies merge into the great plains, and the abundant rain-fall of eastern meridians ceases. West of this line lies one-half of the area of the United States, all of which, excepting a small strip on the shores of the Pacific, is without sufficient rain-fall for the cultivation of the soil. This great arid region comprises more than two-thirds of Kansas and Nebraska, a large portion of California, Oregon, Washington, and Texas, and nearly all of Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, New Mexico, Idaho, Montana, Arizona, Nevada, and Dakota. Here are one million square miles of barren country, and the question is, What shall we do with it?

The keen interest felt in this matter has been evident from the large attendance upon this convention, and the mass of information and argument presented. Whatever has been done thus far toward reclaiming any portion of these waste lands has been by individual enterprise, except in Utah and New Mexico a system of irrigation has been enforced by legislative enactments. In New Mexico the acequias are the most important features of the country. The subsistence of the people depends upon them, and the laws protecting them fill many pages of the statute books. An overseer of acequias is selected in every precinct, who fixes the number of laborers to be furnished by each land-owner, apportions their work, and distributes the water. Yet not over 300 square miles is under cultivation in that Territory. In Utah, where there is in operation the most complete and successful system of irrigation in this country, only about 140,000 acres are under cultivation. By legislative enactment the counties have power to build canals just as they build roads. Water commissioners are chosen at regular elections, in each county, and their services are paid out of the general tax levy, and they give bonds for the faithful performance of their duties. Subordinate commissioners, or water masters, are selected by neighborhoods, cities, and towns, and they are paid by assessments on the land. There are now over 1,200 miles of irrigating canals in Utah, with a capacity for watering 100,000 acres. The population of the Territory is upward of 150,000. It has 190 prosperous towns and cities. Its farm products are shipped into the neighboring Territories, and even into the Missouri Valley. In Colorado there has been no general plan of irrigation. Private corporations build canals and sell the water therefrom to the ranchmen. Several of the towns are supplied in this way. The colonies have also done much in this respect. But no general system has been adopted in that Territory, nor has the legislature ever taken cognizance of the situation. The same may be said of the other States and Territories interested in this movement. Irrigation has been limited. The few acres that have been reclaimed in the immediate vicinity of the streams and cañons, near the mountains, bear no comparison to the vast body of plain and desert stretching hundreds of miles in every direction.

The cost of constructing irrigating canals varies according to the character of the country. The average in Colorado has been $7 per acre. It is thought by competent engineers that in a general system of canals for the Plains, east of Denver, the cost must run from $10 to $15 per acre. According to careful estimates, Colorado has a water supply sufficient to irrigate 6,000,000 acres, an arable area which, in Egypt, in the times of the Ptolemies, supplied food for 8,000,000 people. The Plains, extending from the foot-hills of the Rocky Mountains eastward nearly 300 miles, comprise about 25,000,000 acres. Of this vast tract there are 1,500,000 acres belonging to the Kansas Pacific Railway Company, lying south of the Platte River, and which a canal from the Platte Cañon to the headwaters of the Republican will cover. Such a canal, 12 feet wide and 3 feet deep, will cost $1,000 per mile. It will make lands that now go a-begging at $2.50 per acre worth from $10 to $15.

The want of water is the one and only drawback to the settlement of the Trans-Missouri country. Farming along the streams has been carried on enough to show that the soil is not only fertile, but extremely so, insuring, with plenty of water, crops surpassing those of the best farming districts elsewhere. The average yield, year in and year out, through the Rocky Mountain region, whenever irrigation is employed, has been found to be as follows: Wheat, 27 bushels per acre; oats, 55; potatoes, 150 to 200; onions, 250; barley, 33. This is far above the average of Illinois or Ohio. It is believed that the mountain streams, if turned into proper channels, will irrigate the greater part of the Plains, both east and west of the Mountains. This is particularly true of Western Kansas and Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, and New Mexico. The great rivers of the Platte, Arkansas, Rio Grande, and Colorado could be divided at or near their source in the mountains, and made to cover vast quantities of land. In Utah, it is proposed to take out canals from the Jordan, Weber, and Bear rivers, diminishing the supply in Great Salt Lake, and distributing it over other adjacent portions of the territory. And in California, engineers have been sent out to turn the Colorado River into the desert of Arizona, and Southern California.

* * * * *

PAGE 279.--Her statistics (San Francisco) for 1873 are equally significant, and foot up about as follows: In that year over 70,000 people arrived there, by land and sea, and less than _half_ that number departed. Nearly 4,000 vessels entered her harbor, measuring about 2,000,000 tons. She exported 10,000,000 sacks of wheat, and nearly 1,000,000 barrels of flour; and Californians claimed, it wasn't much of a year for "wheat", either! The total wheat crop of the State, which mostly sought her wharves, was estimated as worth fully $26,000,000, or nearly $10,000,000 more than in 1872--prices being higher; the wool-clip, say, $7,000,000; the wine product, $2,000,000. Her total exports, of all kinds, was estimated at about $80,000,000; and, best of all, while her exports had largely increased, her imports had considerably decreased. Real estate had been dull for a year or two, and yet her sales that year aggregated about $15,000,000; while her mining stocks sold for $150,000,000, and paid dividends about $14,000,000, as against less than half that amount in 1872. The cash value of her property was estimated at $250,000,000 and of the State at about $600,000,000.

California's yield of the precious metals in 1873 was estimated at about $18,000,000, which was some two millions _less_ than in 1872, and was already surpassed by her magnificent wheat crop of $26,000,000. Her total agricultural products for '73 were believed to aggregate $80,000,000; while all her mines and manufactures produced only about $70,000,000, though employing nearly double the number of people. Evidently, with her vast area of 120,000,000 acres of land, of which fully 40,000,000 are fit for the plow, our farmers there have a brilliant future before them, notwithstanding they will have to irrigate to raise some crops.

* * * * *

PAGE 324.--The following is a table of mean temperature at Santa Barbara for the year 1870-1:

April, average of the three daily observations 60.62° May, " " " 62.35 June, " " " 65.14 July, " " " 71.49 Aug., " " " 72.12 Sept., " " " 68.08 Oct., " " " 65.96 Nov., " " " 61.22 Dec., " " " 52.12 Jan., " " " 54.51 Feb., " " " 53.35 March, " " " 58.42

Average temperature for the year, 60.20°.

COLDEST DAY. WARMEST DAY.

April 12th 60° April 16th 74° May 15th 66 May 23d 77 June 1st 69 June 3d 80 July 26th 76 July 11th 84 Aug. 11th 77 Aug. 8th 86 Sept. 23d 66 Sept. 27th 90 Oct. 23d 60 Oct. 20th 92 Nov. 7th 64 Nov. 20th 87 Dec. 15th 52 Dec. 28th 71 Jan. 11th 56 Jan. 3d 76 Feb. 22d 42 Feb. 28th 71 March 13th 56 March 27th 83

Coldest day in the year, Feb. 22d 42° Warmest day in the year, Oct. 20th 92 Variation 50

Compare these with the average temperature of the Atlantic Coast, say at Trenton or New York, and what a paradise for invalids Santa Barbara must be.

* * * * *

PAGE 434.--Our yield of the precious metals for 1873 was exceptionally fine, and the following table of the total for that year, from the districts west of the Missouri River, gave immense satisfaction on the Pacific Coast:

California $18,025,722 Nevada 35,254,507 Oregon 1,376,389 Washington 209,395 Idaho 2,343,654 Montana 3,892,810 Utah 4,906,337 Arizona 47,778 Colorado 4,083,268 Mexico 868,798 British Columbia 1,250,035 ----------- Grand total $72,258,693

The total yield for 1872 was only $62,236,913; so that here is a gain of $10,000,000 or so in one year. This extra increase, however, was chiefly from Nevada, whose total product, it will be seen, about equals that of all the others; and it must be credited mainly to the great Comstock Lode, whose ores, it is now about demonstrated, grow richer and better, the deeper you go down, like the best mines of Mexico and Peru. In 1871 they averaged only $27 per ton; in 1872 they increased to $32; and in 1873 to $40. These figures well sustain Mr. Sutro's theories, and his great tunnel may yet become a fixed fact, ere long.

INDEX.

Acapulco, 470 " people of, 470 " cathedral, 471 " fort, 472

Acequias, 82, 333, 487

Across the Mountains, 150

"Adios", 477

Adventure among Utes, 120-3 " " Dieganos, 351-2 " on bay of San Francisco, 294 " with grizzly bear and cubs, 459

Æsculapius, a son of, 272

Agua Frio, 287

Age of Big Trees, 463

Alkali region, 150-3

Alaska, 291

Alcatraz, 293

Alamo, 347

American eagle, 109 " Falls of Snake, 218 " a Representative, 332

Antelope, 37, 51, 149

Ancantash, 115, 125

Angel Island, 293

Anaheim, 340

Ancient ruins in Arizona, 395

Anomalies in Arizona, etc., 421

Arkansas, the, 82 " Valley of, 82-104 " Little, 104

Argonauts, Bret Harte's, 288

Army Life on Pacific Coast, 293 " -lady in Arizona, 413 " nurseries of the, 418

Arizona City, 355

Arizona generally, 372, 394 " her quicksands, 388 " her chief drawback, 414 " her anomalies, 421 " her ancient ruins, 395 " her quails and rabbits, 409-21 " her mines, 378, 399, 414

Assays, mining, 68

Astoria, 270

Asylums, Chinese, 312-14

Aspinwall, 475

Autocrat of Utah, 179

Aubrey City, 414

Average Westerner, 43, 98 " Coloradoan, 98

Aztecs, 367, 395, 406

Baker's Ranch, 55

Baille, a Mexican, 91-3

Bartering with Indians, 131-2

Baker City, 231

Banquet at Denver, 62

Bar of the Columbia, 271

Banquet at San Francisco, 304

Barbary Coast, " , 310

Bankrupt Law of Chinese, 312

Banning, Gen. P., 331-39-40

"Bed-rock", 73

Belvidere Apollo, 213

Bear River, 214

Bee-Hive House, 175

Better things ahead, 299

Bell's Cañon, 393

Beale's Springs, 410

Beaver Lake, 415

Bear Valley, 465

Bergh, Mr. Henry, 238

"Big Injun" stories, 38

Bierstadt's skies, 105

Bitter Creek, 150 " " country, 150-3

Bill of Fare, a hard, 221

Big Trees of California, 462

Black Hawk, 64

Black-Butte Station, 152

Blue Mountains, 234-6

Blackbirds at Tucson, 376

"Black's", 445

Boys in Blue, 28

Border missionary, a, 39 " bishop, a, 59

Bogus mining companies, 69

Boisè, valley of, 219

Boisè City, 223-6

"Borers", 377

Bower Cave, 445

Bradford's Hill, 110-12

Brent, John, 84

Bridger's Pass, 150

Bridger, Jim, 158

Brigadier-Generals abundant, 173

Brigham City, 212

Breakdown, a, 241

Breakdown, another, 246

Browne, Ross J., 70, 226

Brain of the Northwest, 266

Broderick monument, 280

Building stone, fine, 27

Buchser, M., 43

Buffalo region, 50 " grass, 50 " as engineer, 52

"Bull-drivers", 54, 237

Butte region, 78

Buckskin Joe, 107

Burt, Maj., 158

Burnt River, 228

Bunch-grass, 365

Cavalier and Corncracker, 23

Camping-out, 35, 76, 88, 349, 362, 419 " near summit of Rocky Mountains, 102

Cañon City, 81

Cañon, Echo, 159 " of Columbia, 255

Castle Rock, 78, 256

Castle Dome, 363

Carson, Kit, (see K)

Carson City, 436

Carter, Judge, 159

Carter, Colonel, 415

Cannon, George Q., 168

Calico horses, 252

Cascade Mountains, passage of, 255

Cascades, Lower, 255

California at last, 274 " her growth, 279, 489 " wines generally, 338 " natives, 293, 328, 342 " mines, 427 " live-oaks, 426, 441 " wheat-fields, 426, 441 " wind-mills, 441 " statistics, 279, 489

Cajon Pass, 422

Calaveras Big Trees, 463

Cape St. Lucas, 469

Cactus, columnar, 368

Carissa Creek, 349

Caribbean Sea, 476

"Cavalry Gregg", 407

Cayotes, or wolves, 216

Central City and mines, 62-4

Celilo, 253

Centipedes, 417

Central Pacific Railroad, 428 " its grades, 428 " snow-sheds, 429

Central America, 432

Chicago, 23

Cherry Creek, 53, 65

Chivington massacre, 139

Church Butte, 153

Children of Brigham Young, 180

Chinaman, John, 225, 268

Change from dry to wet, 258

Churches of San Francisco, 287

Christmas in San Francisco, 292

Chinese Question, the, 300-21 " merchants, 304 " New Year, 311 " bankrupt law, 312 " temple or Josh-house, 312 " religion, 314

China's necessity America's opportunity, 315-16

Chemisal, 345

Charley, Diegano, 351

Changes of elevation, 416

Cincinnati, 23

Cisco, 428

Clear Creek, 63-64

Claims, mining, 66

Clawson, Brig.-Gen., 175

Climate of Colorado, 76, 100, 143 " Oregon and Washington., 263 " San Francisco, 281, 467 " Santa Barbara, 324, 490 " San Diego, 328 " Los Angelos, 334 " of Mexican Coast, 468 " Isthmus of Panama, 474

Cliff House and sea-lions, 295-6

"Clarke's", 461

Clarke, Galen, 461

Coming man, 70

Companies, bogus, 69

_Compagnons du voyage_, 33

Costly supplies, 49, 375, 407

Coal, etc., 63, 153, 229

Copper, etc., 63, 378

Colorado ores, 68 " mineral resources, 69-71 " Springs, 80 " City, 81 " farming, 82 " desert, 344-46

Coloradoan, an average, 98

Corkscrew creek, a, 87

Costello, Judge, 107

Council, Indian, 114-16

Councils of war, 160 " Clive on, 160

Cox, Jack, 132

Courts, U. S., in Utah, 193-6

Columbia River, etc., 251 " Clarke's Fork of, 251 " bar of, 271

Conner, Capt., 270-3

Commerce and wealth of San Francisco, 279, 489

Comstock Lode, 433, 492

Coin _vs._ Greenbacks, 290

Conclusion as to Chinese, 320

Cock-fights, 335, 471

Cottonwood Cañon, 410

_Constitution_ steamer, 468

Colima, 469

Costa Rica, 472

Conclusion, 477

Coulterville, 444

"Crawford's", 244

Crossing the Rocky Mountains, 84, 150 " the Blue Mountains, 234 " bar of the Columbia, 271 " Gila and Salado, 383 " Sierra Nevadas, 428, 437

Cruelty Prevention Society wanted, 238

Cumming, Gov., 61 " his speech to Utes, 126

Currants, wild, 63

Culebra, 90

Cuba, 476

Dancing people, a, 92

Dance with Indians, a, 133

Dacotah, 150

Danites or Thugs, 189

Dalles, the, 254

Darwinism, 259

Dante's Inferno, 411

Denver, 58 " her growth, etc., 60 " reception of Sherman, etc., 62

Desert of the Mountains, 150

Deer, 410

Desolation, genius of, 411

Deserters, 422

Departure from San Francisco, 467

"Divides", 35, 73

"Diggings", 65, 107

Dirty Woman's Ranch, 78

Diabolo, Mt., 465

Divine, a High-Church, 469, 475

Dodge, Gen., 144, 248

Dogberry, an Idaho, 226

Donkeys, dilapidated, 234-8

Down the Columbia, 249

Donner Lake, 431

Down the Sierras, 438

Drive, an anxious, 239

Drake's Plantation Bitters, 249

Dry to wet, 258

Duck-shooting, 106-9

Duluth, 267

Eagle, a plucky, 108

Echo Cañon, 159

Election imbroglio, 61

Elk, 149

El Dorado Cañon, 414

Elevation, changes of, 416

Empire City, 107

Emigrant trail, 215 " a typical, 406

English capital, 62

Englishman, a sturdy, 67

Englishmen, enterprising, 443

Enforce the laws, 205

_Enfans terribles_, 249

Erie Railroad, 21

Exasperated teamster, 43

Exaggeration, Western, 96

Example, a shining, 298

Exploring the country, 386

Exploits of Apaches, 402

Fall-Leaf, 29 " his theology, 30 " his bravery, 31

Fancy Creek, 38

Fair Play, Col., 106

Falls of Snake River, 218

Fare, hard bill of, 221

Farewell Bend, 230

Farrallones, 295

Fatherland, our, 476

Fellow-passengers, 43

Fenian friends, 260

Fellow-passengers home, 469

_Fiat Justitia_, 321

Fish-hooks _vs._ ox-carts, 371

Flood-stayed, 382

Fluctuations of mining stocks, 435

Forethought, 239

Fourth of July, 476

Fort Alcatraz, 277, 294 " Benton, 252 " Boisè, 227 " Bowie, 376 " Bridger, 227 " Cameron, 376 " Cape Disappointment, 271 " Camp Cady, 421 " Camp Douglas, 170 " Colville, 251 " Churchill, 436 " Garland, 89, 114 " Goodwin, 376 " Grant, 377 " Halleck, 148 " Kearney, 40 " Laramie, 115 " Leavenworth, 29, 33 " Lovell, 376 " McDowell, 384 " Mojave, 413 " Morgan, 75 " McPherson, 48 " Point, 277 " Riley, 21, 33 " Rock Springs, 418 " San Josè, 277 " Sedgwick, 49 " Stevens, 271 " Stockton, 328 " Vancouver, 261 " Wallen, 376 " Whipple, 407 " Wicked, 54 " Yuma, 355

Fraser's River, 224

Freezing-out, 69

Fremont's old trail, 77

"'Frisco", 274-6

Frigate-birds, 274, 468

Fruit of Mormon teachings, 188

Fun, a little, 113

Gamblers, 59, 224

Gale, Judge, 59

Gate City, 63

Garden of the Gods, 79

Game, lack of, 103-4, 460

"Ganow's", 351

Germany, a bit of, 341

Germans, 24 " a frightened, 56 " enterprising, 100 " a plucky, 383

Getting under way, 34

Georgetown, 71

Geiger grade, 431

Genoa, 436

Gertrude Jane, 438

Gila City, 363 " River, 364 " valley of the, 364 " Bend, 366 " freshet in, 381

Give John a chance, 317

Good grazing region, 50

Golden City, 60, 63

Golden Gate, 276

Gold mines, 66

Gold and silver, our yield of 1873, 491

Gooseberries, wild, 63

Good missionary ground, 319, 361

Gov. Low on Chinese, 318

Grasshoppers, 36

Granite Creek, 398

Grande Ronde Valley, 232

Great West, the, 22 " American Desert, 51 " Salt Lake, 209 " American Falls, 218 " Bend region, 251

Gregory Gulch, 64 " Consolidated, 66

Greenhorn River, 82

Green River, 150-3

Gregg, Gen. Irvin, 407-8

"Greasers", 470

Grizzly bear and cubs, 459

Guaymas, 378

Guatemala, 472

Gulls, 274, 468

Gulf Stream, 476

Happy Family, a, 37

Halsey, Mr. Supt., 221

Hardyville, 413

Hardy, Mr., 414

Hassayampa, 387

Hermann, 25

Hercules of the Plains, 29

Hell Gate, 253

Hell Cañon, 405

Heller, Louis, 383

"Heathen Chinee", 301, 430

Hermitage, the, 458

Hincklin's, Zan, estate, 83-4

High Council of Mormon Church, 196-8

Homan's Park, 99

Hoosiers, 22

Holliday's Overland Stages, 41, 207

Holliday, Ben, 41, 152, 207

Holmes' One-Hoss Shay, 242, 418

Home again, 476

Honitos, 465

Hood, Mt., 256, 264, 269

Horse philosophy, 236-7

Horses, a fine team of, 234

How not to do it, 160

Huerfano River, 83

Hunt, Indian Agent, 116, 131

Hualapai Springs, 410

"Hutchings'", 449

Hydraulic mining, 427

Idaho Springs, 71

Idaho City, 224

Idaho, 223-6 " mines of, 226 " Dogberry, 226

Illinois and Indiana, 22

Indians, Apache, 401 " Arrapahoe, 54 " Cheyenne, 115, 127 " Chemehuevi, 424 " Comanche, 115, 127 " Delaware, 30 " Diegano, 350 " Hualapai, 412 " Maricopa, 369 " Mojave, 412 " Oregon, 252 " Pai-Utes, 412 " Papago, 380 " Pawnee, 38 " Pimo, 369 " Pottawatomie, 32 " Shoshone, 158 " Sioux, 55 " Umatilla, 245 " Ute, 114, 135 " Walla-Walla, 246 " Yavapai, 392

Indian corn, 27 " Point, 28 " idea of steam, 30 " " telegraph, 30 " rumors, 38, 55-7, 77 " council, 114, 116 " treaty, 113-36 " ponies, 116 " costumes, 117 " village, 118 " dogs, 118 " profanity, 119 " speeches, 127-9 " a sharp, 129 " bartering with, 131-2 " dance, 133 " squaws, 135 " generally, 135-6 " trophies, 143 " scare, 146, 419 " exploits of Apaches, 402 " their cunning, 403 " policy of Brigham Young, 212 " " our old, 370, 412 " " our true, 413

"Inside" _vs._ "Outside", 354

Inspiration Point, 457

Interview with Brigham Young, 176-9 " " U. S. Judge at Salt Lake, 189-98

Irish miners, 246

"Iron-clad" Christians, 289

Iron mines, 63

Irrigation, 60, 487

Isothermal lines, 263

Isthmus of Panama, 474 " " people, 475

Jackson, Gen., 29

Jack Cox, 132-3

Jack-rabbits and quail, 345

Jesus, Don, 92

Jerked beef, 118

Jewish synagogue, 286

Jews on Pacific Coast, 287

Jesuit missions, 326

Johnston, Albert Sydney, 159-60

John Day River, 254

John as a merchant, 304 " a banker, etc., 305 " an operative, 306 " a railroad builder, 307 " an actor, 308 " a gambler, 309 " a holiday keeper, 311 " a legislator, 312 " a heathen, 313-15 " give him a chance, 317

John Phœnix, 327

"Jordan is a hard road," etc., 236

Josh-house, Chinese, 312-14

Judge Costello, 107 " Gale, 59 " Lynch, 59, 62, 226 " Carter, 159 " a brave, 198

Julesburg, 49, 53

Junction City, 26

Juniper Mountain, 409

Juries, Mormon, 190

Kansas Pacific Railroad, 21

Kansas generally, 27

Kaolin, 63

"Kate," mule, 87, 112

Kaw, the, 32

Kerber's ranch, 100

Kimball, Heber C., 167-75

Kit Carson, 96-7, 114 " his services, 136 " personal appearance, 137 " adventures, 137 " Sherman on, 138 " Indians on, 138 " his opinion of Indians, 138-9

Kootenay, 252

Lawrence, 26

Landscapes, superb, 72, 84-6, 243, 446

Landscape, a tropical, 478

Laramie Plains, 148

Laclede, 152

Latrobe, 248

Lake Pond Oreille, 252

Laguna Grande, 342

Laguna, 347

Lady, an army, in Arizona, 413

La Paz, 414

Lake Tahoe, 439

Leavenworth, 25

Lead, etc., 63

Leutze's painting, 105

Leave Utah or drown, 184

Lewiston, 223

La Grande, 233 " mines near, 233 " river, 235

Leland, a, 465

Little Blue, 38

Live mining-town, 65

Lincoln on our mines, 70

Life in a stage-coach, 155-7

Lieut. Genl. Utah Militia, 173

Little Arkansas, 104

Liberals _vs._ Imperialists, 353

Libertad, 377

Live-oaks of California, 426, 441

Long's Peak, 75

Lost among Indians, 120-4

"Lo! the poor Indian", 55, 135

Lone Mountain Cemetery, 280, 295

Los Angelos Plains, 333, 423 " itself, 334-5

Lumber, costly, 49, 375, 407

Lynch, Judge, 59, 62, 226

Manhattanville, 32

Marysville, 34

Mantilini, Mr., 67

Machinery, mining, 67

Manitou, Col., 80

Mark Tapley's philosophy, 122

Massacre, Sand Creek., 139

Maladé, 215

Machado's, Ranch, Señor, 342

Maricopa Desert, 366

Mariposa Trail, 456 " Big Trees, 462 " itself, 464

Manzanillo, 469

McCormick, Gov., 362

McDowell Crossing, 383

Meals _en route_, 42

Medicine Man, a, 77

Mexican peons, 83 " baille, 91 " beds, 93 " emigrants, 86, 89, 353 " life and manners, 471

Mexican _vs._ Yankee, 106

Menace to U. States, 175

"Meacham's", 239

Mescal, 345

Mesquite, 365

Merced River, 452

Melno Park, 466

Missouri, 24

Missouri River, 25

Mining town, a live, 65

Mining, placer, 66

Mining "processes", 68

Mining Companies, bogus, 69

Mining as a business, 435

Mines, yield of, 70

Mines, our, total yield of 1873, 491

Miners' slang, 72

Miners returning East, 146

Mines at Baker City, 231

Mines of Colorado, 63-71 " Idaho, 226 " Oregon, 254 " California, 279, 427 " Arizona, 378, 399, 414

Mines of Nevada, 432-5 " U. S. generally, 490-1

Mills, stamp, 67

Mill City, 71

Miami Valley, 22

Micawber, Mr., 68

Micawber, a Boston, 250

Militia, Utah, 172-5

Mission Mills, 306

Milton's Hell, 411

Mirage, 346

Moral, a, 124

Mormon woman, 152 " tabernacle, 166 " preacher, 167 " a sharp, 168 " sermons, 169 " militia-muster, 172 " outrages, etc., 183 " murder of Dr. Robinson, 184-7 " Mountain Meadow Massacre, 191 " juries, etc., 190 " sobriety and thrift, 200 " Bishops, 201 " Brigham Young, 174-9

Mormonism in general, 199

Mormon Church, as immigration agency, 202

Mountain city, a, 64

Mountain scenery, effect of, 86

Mountain mud-wagons, 144

Mountain Fever, 170

Montgomery street, 285 " dames, 286

Montana emigrants, 398

Mojave River, 420

Mother, an ambitious, 438

Monument Creek, 79

Mountains, Alleghany, 58 " Rocky, 75, 113 " Wahsatch, 158 " Blue, 234, 244 " Cascade, 255 " Aztec, 392 " San Bernardino, 420 " Sierra Nevadas, 427, 437-8

Mt. Long's Peak, 75 " Pike's Peak, 75-79 " Hood, 256, 264-9 " St. Helen's, 270 " Shasta, 256 " San Bernardino, 344 " San Francisco, 391

Mule teams, 54 " Kate, 87

Munchausen, Baron, 57, 89

Mustang team, 157

Mysteries and miseries of stage-coaching, 156

Nasby people, 267

New England, 22 " village, 397

Newspapers again, 108, 424

New Mexico, etc., 140

New Granada, 472

New York, 476

Nevada, agriculture in, 431 " mines in, 433, 491 " alkali plains of, 436

_Nez Perce Chief_, 250

Nicaragua, 472

North Platte, 148 " Clear Creek, 66

"No makee bobbery", 303

Nurseries of the army, 418

Ocean, a Pacific, 323

Off for the Pacific, 144 " Los Angelos, 322 " Ft. Yuma, 339 " Yosemite, 444

Ogden City, 210

Ohio, 22

Old Chief, 63

Omaha, 40, 58

Ooray, 115, 125 " his speeches at treaty, 126-9

Ophir mine, 434

Ores, Colorado, 68 " Arizona, 399 " Nevada, 432

Oregonian, a live, 240

Oregon Steam Nav. Co., 251 " Indians, 252 " rains and fogs, 259

Oregonians generally, 268

_Orizaba_, the, 322

"Out West", 22

Outrage, a border, 351

Outrages, Mormon, 183

"Out of the Wilderness", 424

Outside on a coach, 44

"Outfit", 72

Overland route, 35 " stages, 41, 206

Owyhee, 224 " Rapids, 253

Ox-trains, 54, 238

"Pay-ore", 66

Pay-streak, 73

"Panned-out", 73

Pacific Railroad, Union, 40, 71, 80 " Central, 428, 430 " Northern, 252 " Texas, 396

Pass, Sangre del Christo, 84-6 " Poncho, 102

Parks, Rocky Mt., 95

Parley's Cañon, 161

Paymaster, a lucky, 227

Pasquol, old, 361

Painted Rocks, 367

Pai-Ute Hill, 417

Paradise Regained, 423 " for invalids, 491

Panama, 472

Peat, 49

Peons, Mexican, 83

Petroleum, 153

Personal appearance of Brigham Young, 178-9

Pennsylvania Dutchman, a, 39

Phosphorescent waves, 467-8

Pike's Peak, 75, 79

Pigeon English, 302

Pilot Knob, 348

Picacho, 373

Platte River, 36, 48 " Valley, 47, 49

Placer Mining, 65-66

Plains, the, 50, 52, 72, 111 " as stock-raising and dairy region, 51, 481

Placerville, 439

Poncho Pass, 102 " Creek, 103

Pocket-knives as weapons, 122

Polygamy, its workings, 192-3 " bad results generally, 203 " a barbarism, 204 " laws against, should be enforced, 204-5

Portland, 264-8

Powder River, 228

Powell, Prof., 357

Postle's ranch, 405

Pony, a plucky, 448

Porpoises, 467

Prospect Ridge, 28

"Prospecting", 66

Prairie schooners, 26, 34, 54 " chickens, 36, 53 " dogs, 37

Praying machines of Chinese, 314

"Processes," mining, 68

Process, a new, wanted, 68

Preacher, Mormon, 167

Pratt's River, 228

Price's Army, left wing of, 240, 267

Press of California, 288

Prescott Crossing, 383 " road, 385 " itself, 397 " her mining prospects, 399 " population, 400

Precious metals, our yield of for 1873, 491

Project, a California, 439

Punty, 445-8

Quartz mines, etc., 66

Quicksands of Arizona, 388 " execrable, 392

Ranchmen and their homes, 53

Ranches, 73 " in California, 293

Ranchman, a dismal, 421

Randall, Bishop, 59

Railroad, Union Pacific, 40, 71, 80 " Northern, 252 " Central, 428, 430 " Texas, 396 " across the Isthmus, 474

Rather exciting situation, 121

Rapids of the Columbia, 253

Rains and fogs, 259

Rains and winds of San Francisco, 281-2

Racing steam-ships, 322

Rattlesnakes, 417

Reception of Gen. Sherman, etc., 62

_Red Rupert_, 144

Regions, barren, 215, 345, 410

Representative Californians, 285

Religion in California, 287-9

Revivalist, a noted, 432

Ride by stage-coach, 44

Ride after antelope, 51

Ride by muleback, 84-7 " a rough, 220 " a fine horseback, 446

Rio Grande, 96-7 " bottoms, 96

Rio Colorado, 150, 356, 415

Rip Van Winkles, 279, 376

_Rising Star Steamer_, 475

River Terraces, 28

Rocky Mountains, 75, 143 " parks of, 95

Roads, mountain, 110, 439

Road-agents, 166

Robinson, Dr., murder of, 184-7

Romancing, 247

Rough stage-coaching, 437

Roses in California, 440

Rock Springs, 410

Russel's Ranch, 98

Ruby City, 224

Rule, the only safe among Indians, 394

Sacramento River, 425 " Valley, 426 " City, 440

Saratoga of Colorado, 71

Sangre del Christo, 84-6

Saddle animals, 87

San Luis Park, 96

Saw-mills, 110

Safe at last, 124

Sage-hens, 158

Salt Lake City, 164-6 " House, 164 " Theatre, 179 " audience generally, 182 " _Vidette_, 183 " Mormon outrages at, 183, 198 " what a U. S. Judge thinks of affairs there, 189-98 " itself, 209 (See Mormon.)

Sand Creek massacre, 139

Sand-storm, a Yuma, 358

San Francisco, 276 " her location, 277 " sand-hills, 278 " commerce, etc., 279 " climate, 281-2 " earthquakes, 283 " hotels, 283 " houses and gardens, 284 " fruits and flowers, 284 " churches, 287-8 " her Christmas and New Year, 292 " statistics, 279, 489 " Barbary Coast, 310 " Chinese, 301, 321 " sail on Bay of, 294

Santa Barbara, 324 " her climate, 490-91

San Diego, 325-9 " court-house and jail, 327 " climate, 328 " neighboring ranches, 329 " harbor, 329

San Pedro, 330

Santa Anna River, 340-1

Santa Cruz River, 372-5

San Xavier del Bac, 379

San Bernardino, 422

San Joaquin River, 444

San Mateo, 466

San Josè, 466

San Salvador, 472

Scare, an Indian, 146-7

Scott's Marmion, 159

Scout after Apaches, 404

Segrist, Mr., 39

Señors and Señoritas, 92

Sermons, Mormon, 169

Sea-sickness, 272

Sea-lions, 295-6

"Shanghai" fences, 36, 229

Sherman, Gen., 61, 114 " on Kit Carson, 138 " New Mexico, etc., 140-1 " personally, 142

"Shebang", 72

Sha-wa-she-wit, 125

Shauno, 125

Shingle Station, 439

Silvers, Rev. Mr., 39

Sibley tents, 55, 118

Silver-mining, 66, 432-5

Silver City, 224

Sierra Blanca, 98 " Nevadas, 427 " " summit of, 430 " " snows on, 428, 437 " " silence of, 460 " " sugar-pines of, 461

Skull Valley, 392

Smoky Hill River, 28, 50

Snowy Range, 63, 76, 105

Snow-squalls, 81, 89, 98

Snow-storm, in a, 162, 241

Snow galleries, 429

Snows on Sierra Nevadas, 428, 437

Snake River, 216 " bottoms, 217 " station, 217 " valley generally, 229

Socelito, 294

Soda Springs, Col., 80

Soda Lake, 419

Soldier, a true, 408

Something about smoking, 157 " " Vicksburg, 261-2

South Platte, 58, 65, 107 " Clear Creek, 71 " Park, 105

Spanish Peaks, 85 " attempts to speak, 342

Specimen settlers, 39, 406

"Square meal", 72

Squaws, Indian, 135

Stage-horses, 41 " stations, 41 " drivers, 42, 54 " staging it "outside", 44 " coaching generally, 155, 206 " good-bye, 248 " across the Sierra Nevadas, 428, 437

Stampedes, 147

Stamp Mills, 67

Statistics of Stock-raising on Plains, 481-7

Statistics of San Francisco, etc., 279, 489-90 " gold and silver product. 1873, 491

Stanislaus, 444

Steam navigation on the Columbia, 251 " " on the Colorado, 414-15

Steele, Gen., 261-3

Stockton, 442 " her windmills, etc., 442

Stormy Divide, 77

St. Louis, 23

St. Helen's, 270

Stump, Capt., 251

"S. T. 1860, X., etc.", 249

Sulphurets, 68, 399

Sulphur Springs, hot, 171, 209

Sunsets, 45

Sunset, a magnificent, 46

Superintendent of Mines, 67

Sugar-pines of California, 461

"Swinging round the circle", 227

Swiss artist, a, 43

"Swop" and "no swop", 131

"Talings", 68

Tabernacle, Mormon, 168

Tahoe, Lake, 439

Taylor, Bayard, 25

Teamsters, as a class, 237, 244

Telegraph Hill, 279

Tehauntepec, Gulf of, 472

Texan Emigrant, 349

Texas and Pacific Railroad, 396

Tip-top of Rocky Mountains, 85

Topeka, 26

Tobacco, some defence of, 157

Transportation, costly, 357, 377

Transition, a welcome, 423

Treaty with Ute Indians, 113, 136

Trophies, Indian, 143

Trout-fishing, 88

Trout-broiling, 88, 102

Trout streams, 97

Truckee River, 431

Tucson, 374 " her high prices, 375 " business, 376 " costly transportation, 377

Tucson's griefs, 378 " mines, 378

Tuolomne River, 444

Turkey, a fine wild, 407

Typical emigrant, 406

Umatilla River, 245-6 " City, 249

Uniontown, 233

Union Pass, 411

Union Pacific Railroad, 40

Ups and downs of Californians, 297-9

Up the Sierras, 428

Utah militia, 172-5 " autocrat of, 179 " Judge, opinion of, 189, 198 " U. S. Courts in, 193-6 " laws in, enforce, 205 (See Mormon.)

Ute Indians, 77, 212 " council, 114-16 " treaty, 116, 136 " princess, 117 " village, 118 " lost among, 120 " chiefs, 114-15, 125 " dance, 133 " generally, 134 " squaws, 135

Valley of the Platte, 48 " Boisè, 219 " Burnt, Powder, and Pratt's rivers, 228 " Snake, 229-30 " Grande Ronde, 232 " Umatilla, 247 " Weber, 161 " Salt Lake, 165 " Columbia, 252 " Gila, 364 " Salado, 395 " Colorado, 355, 411 " Sacramento, 426 " Yosemite, 447, 454

Vicksburg, something about, 261-2

Victoria, 266

View from Telegraph Hill, 280

Villacito, 344

Virginia Dale, 145

Virginia City, 432

Voyage from Portland to San Francisco, 273 " a delightful, 323 " up the Sacramento, 425 " home, 467

Vulture mine and mill, 391

Wagon-trains and teamsters, 54

Ward, Artemus, 180

Water-ditches, 82, 487

Walla Walla, 243, 251

Wallula, 249, 251

Wanted--a road, 385 " roads and bridges, 389 " a railroad, 396

Westerner, specimen of a, 55

Western exaggerations, 96-7

Wellington, young chief, 123-4

Weber Valley, 161

West, Bishop, 175, 211

Wells, Lt. General, 175

Wells Springs, 244

"Web-footed" children, 259

West Indies, 476

Whales, 467

Whirlwinds, 346

White Pine, 433

Whitney, Prof., 452, 456

Whittier's prophecy, 477

Wheat-fields of California, 426, 441 " yield of, 441

Wickenburg, 390

Wildcat Creek, 39

Wind-storm, a, 45

Willow Springs, 146

Wilful, John, 247

Willamette River, 266

Wilmington, etc., 331

Wilson, Don Benito, 336 " his noble ranch, 336 " orange groves, 337 " vineyards, 337 " his home, 338

Williamson's Valley, 409

Wind-mills, 278 " " in California, 285, 441

Winds and rains of San Francisco, 281-2

Wines, California, 338

Wood and lumber scarce, 49

Wolves or cayotes, 216

Yankee-land, 22

Yankee hand and brain, 71

Yank's Station, 437

Yerbo Buena, 279

Yellow-jacket mine, 434

"_You bet_", 73-74

Yosemite Valley, 443 " first view of, 447 " South Dome and walls, 450 " Bridal Veil and Yosemite Falls, 451 " El Capitan, 451 " by moonlight, 451 " North Dome, etc., 452 " Lake and South Fork, 452 " Cascades and Vernal Falls, 453 " rainbows in, 453 " Nevada Falls, 454 " Sentinel Peak, 454 " Mt. Broderick, 454 " Cathedral Rock, 454 " in winter, 455 " from Hutchings', 449 " from Inspiration Point, 457

Young chief Wellington, 123-4

Young, Brigham, 175-9 " wives of, 180 children of, 181 " shrewd dodge of, 187 " success of, 195 " Indian policy of, 212 " Brigadier General, 175 " Colonel, 175 " Joseph, 211 (See Mormon.)

Zan Hincklin's ranch, 83-4

Zig-zags, mountain, 437 " swinging the, 438

THE END.

Transcriber's Notes:

Obvious punctuation and spelling errors have been fixed throughout.

Inconsistent hyphenation is as in the original.

The Index is not in strict alphabetic order in the original. It has been left in the same order as in the original.