Chapter 11

LYONS.

The _Lyonoise_ think their town was particularly honoured by the _Taurobolium_; but it was a common practice to offer that sacrifice not only for the Emperor's health, but for the preservation of a city. There are two of these altars in the town of _Letoure_; one consecrated for the preservation of the Emperor _Gordian_, on which is the following inscription:

PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL. AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINÆ PROQVE STATV CIVIT. LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANO II ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS M EROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD.

And in a little village near _Marseilles_, called _Pennes_, there is a stone, on which is engraven,

MATRI DEVM MAGNÆ IDEÆ

And on another, in the same town,

MATRI DEVM TAVROPOLIVM.

I must not omit to give you a copy of a singular inscription on the tomb of a mint-master which was found in _Lyons_, and is preserved entire:

NOBILIS TIB. CÆSARIUS AVG. SER ÆQ. MONET HIC AD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ET PERPETUA FILIA D.S.D.

The most ancient money which has been found in and about this city, is the little coin of _Mark Antony_; on one side of which is represented the Triumvirate; on the other, a Lion, with the word _Lugudani_ under it; on each side of the Lion are the letters A and XL. The antiquarians here think those letters marked the value of the piece, and that it was about forty _sous_; but is it not more probable, that this was only the mint-master's touch?

Nothing can be a stronger proof of the importance of this city in the time of the Romans, than the immense expence they were at in erecting such a number of grand aquæducts, one of which was eighteen leagues in length; many parts of them are still visible; and it appears that they spent for the reparation of them at _one_ time, near one thousand talents; and here it was that the four grand Roman highways divided; one of which went directly to the sea, and another to the _Pyrenees_.

_Agrippa_, who was the constructor of most of these noble monuments of Roman grandeur, would not permit the _Lyonoise_ to erect any monument among them to his memory; and yet, his memory is, in a very particular manner, preserved to this day in the very heart of the city, for in the front of a house on the quay _de Villeroy_, is a medallion of baked earth, which, I think, perfectly resembles him; sure I am it is an unquestionable antique; it is a little disfigured indeed, and disgraced by his name being written upon it in modern characters. But there is another monument of _Agrippa_ here; it is part of the epitaph of an officer or soldier of the third cohort, whose duty it was to take an account of the expence of each day for the subsistence of the troops employed to work on the high-ways, and this officer was called _A. Rationibus Agrippæ_.

There are an infinite number of Roman inscriptions preserved at _Lyons_, among which is the following singular one:

DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAM TVAM RAPVERVNT.

I have already told you of a modern monument erected by the _Lyonoise_, and now, with grief and concern, I must tell you of an ancient one which they have demolished! it was a most beautiful structure, called the tomb of the Two Lovers; that, however, was a mistake; it was the tomb of a brother and sister named _Amandas_, or _Amans_, for near where it stood was lately found the following monumental inscription:

D M

ET MEMORIAE ÆTERNÆ OLIÆ TRIBVTÆ FEMINÆ SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVS AMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMÆ SIBIQVE AMANTISSIMÆ P.C. ET SVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT.

I have seen a beautiful drawing of this fine monument, which stood near the high road, a little without the town; the barbarian _Bourgeoises_ threw it down about seventy years ago, to search for treasure.

But enough of antiquities; and therefore I will tell you truly my sentiments with respect to the south of France, which is, that _Lyons_ is quite southward enough for an Englishman, who will, if he goes farther, have many wants which cannot be supplied. After quitting _Lyons_, he will find neither good butter, milk, or cream. At _Lyons_, every thing, which man can wish for, is in perfection; it is indeed a rich, noble, and plentiful town, abounding with every thing that is good, and more _finery_ than even in _Paris_ itself. They have a good theatre, and some tolerable actors; among whom is the handsomest Frenchman I ever beheld, and, a little stiffness excepted, a good actor.

Any young gentleman traveller, particularly _of the English nation_, who is desirous of _replenishing his purse_, cannot, even in _Paris_, find more convenient occasions to throw himself in _fortune's way_, than at the city of _Lyons_.

An English Lady, and two or three gentlemen, have lately been so _fortunate there_, as to find lodgings _at a great Hotel_, gratis; and I desire you will particularly _recommend a long stay at_ Lyons _to my Oxonian friend_; where he may _see the world_ without looking out at a window.