Chapter 1

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A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA

by

SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.

(Reprinted by permission from the Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, with large additions, Illustrations, and a Map.)

London: E.A. Petherick & Co., 33, Paternoster Row, E.C.

1890

TO HER ROYAL HIGHNESS, PRINCESS LOUISE, MARCHIONESS OF LORNE,

This Volume, describing a recent tour, during which a large portion of Her Majesty's magnificent Dominions in South Africa were traversed, is, by gracious permission, dedicated with feelings of sincere respect.

INTRODUCTION.

The growth of the great Colonies of the British Empire is so phenomenal, and their development is so rapid, and remarkable, that if we are to possess a correct knowledge of their actual state, and condition, from year to year, their current history requires to be constantly re-written.

The writer of a decade since, is, to-day, almost obsolete. He has only produced a current record of facts, and places, at the period he wrote. This is especially the case with South Africa.

I have recently returned from a very interesting tour in that remarkable country. My impressions were noted down, as they occurred, from day to day. A summary of my observations, and of the incidents, in connection with my journey, was the subject of a Paper I read at the opening meeting of the present Session of the Royal Colonial Institute, on the 12th of November last. I wish it to be understood that the opinions expressed on that occasion were my own, and that the Institute as a body is in no way responsible for them. This Paper has formed the outline of the volume, which--with much new matter from my note book--I now offer to the public, in the belief, that the narrative of a traveller, simply seeking instruction, as well as amusement, from a few months tour, while traversing some 12,000 miles by sea, and 4,000 miles by land, through the wonderful country in which he lately roamed, might prove of some use, in awakening additional interest on the part of the general public, to one of the most promising, and valuable portions of the Colonial Empire.

In this spirit, I offer my "Winter Tour in South Africa," to my countrymen, "at home and beyond the seas," in the hope that it may receive from them, a favourable reception.

On the "Political Situation," I have spoken strongly and frankly, I hope not too much so. The result of my personal observations has convinced me, that I have only correctly expressed the opinions, very widely entertained by large classes of Her Majesty's subjects in South Africa.

I cannot conclude without acknowledging the aid I have derived from the Statistical information contained in the "Argus Annual," and it also affords me much pleasure to thank Mr. James R. Boosé, the Librarian of the Royal Colonial Institute, for the assistance he has rendered me.

FREDERICK YOUNG

5, Queensberry Place, S.W. _1st January, 1890._

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

MY WAGON Frontispiece

GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN facing 6

PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN facing 8

JOHANNESBURG, MARKET PLACE facing 57

CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL facing 81

GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG facing 83

A STREET IN MARITZBURG facing 84

TOWN HALL, DURBAN facing 86

HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN facing 89

HEX RIVER PASS facing 107

CONTENTS.

PAGE

DEDICATION. v.

INTRODUCTION. vii.

THE VOYAGE.--Embark at Southampton--Amusements at Sea--Lisbon--Madeira--Teneriffe--St. Helena--Longwood--Arrival at Cape Town 1-4

CAPE TOWN.--Queen's Birthday--Review of Troops--Regatta--Table Bay--Table Mountain--Hotels--House of Parliament--Observatory--South African Museum--Public Library--Botanic Gardens--Record Office--Places of Worship--Harbour Works and Breakwater--Graving Dock--Simon's Town--Kalk Bay--Constantia--Wynberg--Journey to Kimberley 5-21

KIMBERLEY.--Address of Welcome from the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute--Diamond Industry--Bultfontein Mine--DeBeer's Mine--Compounds--United Companies--Central Kimberley Diamond Mine--Kimberley Hospital--Progress of Kimberley--Town Hall--Post Office--High Court--Public Library--Waterworks--_En route_ for Bechuanaland--Wagon Travelling--Warrenton--Drake's Farm 22-38

BECHUANALAND.--Scenery--Field for Settlement--Vryburg--Lochnagar Farm--Prospect of Gold Discovery 39-46

KLERKSDORP.--Nooitgedacht Mine--Pan Washing--Klerksdorp Gold Estates Company--Future of Klerksdorp 47-49

POTCHEFSTROOM.--Wagon Journey--Presence of Gold-bearing Reefs--Vultures--Fort and Cemetery--Chevalier Forssman 50-52

JOHANNESBURG.--Difficulties of Travelling--Appearance of the Town--Gold--Knights--The Jumpers--Robinson's--Langlaagte--Descent to the Mines--Market Square--Growth of Johannesburg--Sanitary arrangements 53-59

PRETORIA.--Water Supply--The Volksraad--President Paul Kruger--High Court of Justice--Want of Railroads--Growing Prosperity--Post Office--New Government Buildings--Political and Social Life--Pretoria Races 60-65

WATERBURG.--Polonia--Hebron--Salt Pans--Kafirs--Appearance of the Country--Prospects of Gold--Scarcity of Game--Bush Fire--Narrow Escape--Transport Driver--Waterburg Sulphur Baths--Nylstroom Road--Return to Pretoria 66-78

PRETORIA TO NATAL.--Coach to Johannesburg--Post Cart Travelling--Richmond--Heidelburg--Standerton--Newcastle--Eland's Laagte--Natal Railway--Coal Fields--Laing's Nek--Majuba Hill--Ingogo--Scenery of Natal 79-82

MARITZBURG.--Public Buildings--House of Assembly--Statue of the Queen--British Troops 83-84

DURBAN.--Railway Journey--Town Hall--Municipal arrangements--Trade--Harbour Works--The "Berea"--Natal Central Sugar Company's Manufactory--Trappist Establishment at Marion Hill--Defences--Embark for Port Elizabeth 85-96

PORT ELIZABETH.--Trade--Town Hall--Public Library--Ostrich Feathers--The "Hill"--Botanical Garden--Hospital--Water Supply--Churches--Presentation of an address 97-101

GRAHAMSTOWN.--Railway Journey--Scenery--Botanical Gardens--Mountain Road--Museum--The Prison--Kafir School--Ostrich Farm at Heatherton Towers--Export of Feathers 102-105

PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.--Scenery--Hex River Pass--Arrival at Cape Town--Lecture at Young Men's Christian Society--Start for England--Arrival at Southampton 106-108

CLIMATE. 109-112

THE NATIVE QUESTION. 113-116

RAILWAYS. 117-122

COLONISATION. 123-127

THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 128-148

APPENDIX:--

I. Discussion on a Paper entitled "A Winter Tour in South Africa," by Sir Frederick Young, at the Royal Colonial Institute 149-163

II. Lecture on Imperial Federation delivered at Cape Town 164-173

THE VOYAGE.

On the 3rd of May last, I left Southampton in the s.s. _Spartan_ for Cape Town. This three weeks' ocean voyage has become one of the most enjoyable it is possible to take by those who are seeking health or pleasure on the sea. The steamers of the great companies, which carry on so admirably the weekly communication between England and South Africa, are so powerful, handsome, and commodious, their captains and crews are so attentive and obliging, their food and cabin accommodation so ample and luxurious, that it seems impossible for anyone, excepting a confirmed grumbler, to find any reasonable fault with any of their arrangements, where all are so good. Passengers will select the particular vessel by which they desire to travel, rather by the convenience of the date fixed for sailing, than from any particular choice of the name of the steamer, either belonging to the Castle Mail Packet Company, the Union Steamship Company, or any other line.

A sea voyage of the kind I have recently taken does not give opportunity for much striking incident, or exciting variety. If restful and pleasant to those who are escaping for a while from the bustle and turmoil of life on shore, it is at all events bound to be somewhat monotonous, in spite of the many amusements which are daily arranged, including cricket, tennis, quoits, concerts, dances, etc., of which I experienced a fair share. On many occasions I was called upon to preside at concerts, lectures, etc., not only amongst the saloon passengers, but also in the third class cabin. A rough voyage across the Bay of Biscay, a view of the Tagus, a brief run on shore to look at the picturesque capital of Portugal, a gaze at the spot, which marks the memory of the scene of the fearful earthquake of 1755, which destroyed most of the town, and 50,000 of its inhabitants; a short stay at the lovely island of Madeira, sufficient to glance at its beautiful scenery, to breathe its balmy air, to taste its delicious fruits, and to land at its pretty town of Funchal, to see some of its charming surroundings; a passing peep at Teneriffe, which is now receiving so much attention in Europe as an attractive health resort; a few days' run of exhausting heat through the tropics; a visit to Saint Helena, enough to allow of a drive to Longwood, and a look at the room, where the first Napoleon breathed his last--leaving there the legacy of the shadow of a mighty name to all time--on this "lonely rock in the Atlantic"; a few days more of solitary sailing over a stormy sea, a daily look-out for whales, porpoises, dolphins, flying fish, sharks, and albatrosses; a glance upward, night after night, into the starry sky, to gaze on the Southern Cross, so much belauded, and yet so disappointing in its appearance, after the extravagant encomiums lavished on it; and at length, on the early morning of May 24, I safely reached Cape Town.

CAPE TOWN.

To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather. Places look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a deluge of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful day. Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter genial aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite charmed with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of Government of the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually striking to a traveller, fresh from the sea, was, that it was the Queen's birthday, and the day dawned with a most perfect specimen of "Queen's weather." Cape Town was literally _en fête_. The inhabitants thronged the streets. I was astonished at the great variety of gay costumes among the motley crowd--English, Dutch, Germans and French, Malays, Indian Coolies, Kafirs, and Hottentots--a tremendous gathering, in fact, of all nations, and "all sorts and conditions of men." There was a grand review of all the military branches of the Service, in which His Excellency the Administrator, General Smyth, surrounded by a brilliant staff, received the homage due to the British flag; and, as her representative on this occasion, to Her Majesty's honoured name. The review was followed by a regatta in the afternoon. It was quite refreshing to a new arrival, like myself, to observe the enthusiastic evidences of loyal feeling everywhere exhibited in the capital of the Colony to our Queen, the beloved and venerated head of the British Empire.

Before commencing my long and interesting tour "up country," I spent a few most pleasant, days at Cape Town. My impressions of it, and of its beautiful surroundings, could not fail to be most favourable. The panoramic view of its approach from Table Bay, at the foot of Table Mountain, is very fine. The town itself appeared to me much cleaner, and brighter than I expected to see it, although, it must be admitted, there is still considerable room for improvement in its sanitary arrangements, and also in the accommodation, and condition of its hotels, to make them as attractive as they ought to be. The best of them do not come at all up to our standard at home, nor to our English ideas of comfort and convenience. A great improvement in these respects, I am satisfied, is not only necessary, but would pay well, and induce a far larger number of visitors to stay at Cape Town, and avail themselves of its attractions of climate, and fine surroundings.

While I was at Cape Town, I visited among other places, the House of Parliament, the Observatory, the South African Museum, the Public Library, the Botanic Gardens, &c.

The House of Parliament, which was opened for public use in 1885, is a very handsome building, having a frontage of 264 feet, and is divided into a central portico, leading into the grand vestibule, the two debating chambers, and side pavilions. The portico, which is of massive dimensions, is approached by a commanding flight of granite steps, which runs round three sides of it. The pavilions are relieved by groups of pilasters with Corinthian capitals, and are surmounted by domes and ventilators. The whole of the ground floor up to the level of the main floor has been built of Paarl granite, which is obtained from the neighbouring district of that name. The upper part of the building is of red brick, relieved by pilasters and window dressing of Portland cement, the effect being very pleasing to the eye. The interior accommodation for the business of the two Legislative bodies is most complete, and arranged with a careful view to comfort and convenience. In addition to the Debating Chambers, which are sixty-seven feet in length by thirty-six feet in width, there is a lofty hall of stately appearance, with marble pillars, and tesselated pavement, which forms the central lobby, or grand vestibule. I might mention, that the debating chambers are only ten feet in length and width less than the British House of Commons. Adjoining the central lobby is the parliamentary library, a large apartment, with galleries above each other reaching to the full height of the building. The usual refreshment, luncheon, and smoking rooms have not been forgotten, in connection with the comfort of the members. The public are accommodated in roomy galleries, and ample provision has been made for ladies, distinguished visitors, and the press. The portrait of Her Majesty, and the Mace at the table reminds one forcibly of the fact that one is still in a portion of the British Empire. The total cost of the building, including furniture, was £220,000.

I attended two or three debates in the House of Parliament, and was much impressed with the manner in which, in this superb and commodious legislative chamber, the discussions were carried on. There was a quiet dignity of debate, as well as business-like capacity and orderly tone, observed on both sides of the House, which might be copied with advantage, as it is in striking contrast to much of the practice, in the Parliament of Great Britain. It is certainly satisfactory to notice, that the modern manners and customs, in the popular branch of our own ancient national assembly, which so frequently fail in orthodox propriety, have not been imitated in the Cape Colony.

At the Record Office attached to the House of Parliament, I went into the vaults, and inspected the early manuscripts of the Dutch, during their original occupation of the Cape of Good Hope. These are most deeply and historically interesting, and valuable. The minute accuracy, with which every incident is recorded is most remarkable. There are bays in these vaults, filled with records, which must be of priceless value to an historical student, and they are now in course of arrangement by the able librarian, Mr. H.C.V. Leibbrandt, who is the author of a most interesting work entitled "Rambles through the Archives of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope."[A]

At the South African Museum I found a valuable collection of beasts, birds, fishes, &c., not only from South Africa, but from various parts of the world. The collection has been enriched by valuable contributions from Mr. Selous, the distinguished African traveller, and sportsman, his donations consisting chiefly of big game, including two gigantic elands, (male and female), buffaloes, antelopes, &c. The series of birds comprises the large number of two thousand species.

A visit of great interest to me was to the South African Public Library, which boasts of about 50,000 volumes, and embraces every branch of science and literature. It contains three distinct collections, viz., the Dessinian, the Grey, and the Porter. The first-named was bequeathed to the Colony in 1761 by Mr. Joachim Nicholas Von Dessin, and consists of books, manuscripts and paintings. The Porter collection took its name from the Hon. William Porter, and was purchased from the subscriptions raised for the purpose of procuring a life-size portrait of that gentleman, in recognition of his services to the Colony. As, however, Mr. Porter declined to sit for his portrait, the amount subscribed was appropriated to the purchase of standard works, to be known as the Porter Collection. By far the most valuable, however, is the Grey Collection, numbering about 5,000 volumes, and occupying a separate room. These were presented by Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape Colony from 1854 to 1859, and still an active member of the New Zealand House of Representatives. Here are many rare manuscripts, mostly on vellum or parchment, some of them of the tenth century, in addition to a unique collection of works relating to South Africa generally.

Among the places of worship in Cape Town the most important are St. George's Cathedral, which was built in 1830, and is of Grecian style of architecture, and accommodates about 1,200 persons; and the Dutch Reformed Church, which possesses accommodation for 3,000 persons, and is not unappropriately named the Colonial Westminster Abbey. Beneath its floors lie buried eight Governors of the Colony, the last one being Ryk Tulbagh, who was buried in 1771.

No account of Cape Town would be complete without a reference to the important Harbour Works, and Breakwater, which at once attract the attention of the visitor, and which have been in course of erection for several years past, from the designs of Sir John Coode. These works have been of the greatest importance in extending, and developing the commercial advantages of the port. The Graving Dock now named the Robinson, after the late Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, was formally opened during the year 1882, and it so happened that the first vessel to enter it was the _Athenian_, in which I returned to England, at the termination of my tour. The whole of the works connected with the building of the Docks and Breakwater reflect credit upon all who have in any way been engaged upon their construction. The amount expended on them up to the end of 1887 was £1,298,103.

Before leaving Cape Town, at the invitation of the Naval Commander-in-Chief, Admiral Wells, I paid a visit to Simon's Town, the chief naval station of the colony. The railway runs at present as far as Kalk Bay, which takes about an hour to get to from Cape Town. Kalk Bay is a pleasant seaside resort for the inhabitants of the colony, the air being regarded as particularly invigorating. The remaining distance of six miles to Simon's Town is performed in a Cape cart, which is a most comfortable vehicle on two wheels, drawn by two horses with a pole between them, and covered with a hood, as a protection from the weather. The scenery from the Kalk Bay station to Simon's Town is very picturesque. A bold sea stretches out on one side of the road, and the mountain on the other. Amongst other things which attracted my attention at Simon's Town was the Dockyard, which embraces about a mile of the foreshore, and contains appliances for repairing modern war vessels, a repairing and victualling depôt, and a patent slip, capable of lifting vessels of about 900 tons displacement. I went with the Admiral, and a party of ladies to have luncheon on board the Steam Corvette _Archer_.

Simon's Bay is very sheltered, excepting from the south-east, with good holding anchorage ground. It seems a quiet, secluded spot, well-adapted for a naval station in this part of the world, although I have heard that an opinion prevails that the fleet should be at Cape Town instead of Simon's Bay. The _Raleigh_ is the flag-ship; I saw also some other vessels of the Royal Navy at anchor in the bay. The fortifications which are now in progress for the protection of this important point in our chain of defences will, when completed, render the place practically impregnable from sea attack.

Some of the most beautiful coast scenery I have ever seen is to be found in that very lovely drive by Sea Point to Hout's Bay, and thence back to Cape Town by Constantia and Wynberg. This is a celebrated excursion, and well deserves the praises bestowed upon it. The road has been admirably constructed by convict labour.

A very convenient short line of railway also brings within easy reach of the inhabitants of Cape Town the pretty villages of Mowbray, Rondebosch, Rosebank, Newlands, Wynberg, Constantia, &c., where, in charming villas and other residences, so many of the wealthier classes reside. At Constantia the principal wine farms are situated, the most noted being the Groot Constantia (the Government farm) and High Constantia. Constantia wine can only be produced on these farms. Another farm in this neighbourhood is Witteboomen, which is particularly noted for its peaches, there being over one thousand trees on the farm, in addition to many other kinds of fruit. Another one, and probably the largest in the district, is named "Sillery." Here not many years ago the ground was a wilderness, but it has now attained a high state of perfection, there being at least 140,000 vines and hundreds of fruit trees of all kinds, under cultivation.