Category: Travel Writing

A Wanderer in Venice

I have no doubt whatever that, if the diversion can be arranged, the perfect way for the railway traveller to approach Venice for the first time is from Chioggia, in the afternoon.

Chapters

40. Chapter 40

An Armenian monastery--The black beards--An attractive cicerone--The refectory--Byron's Armenian studies--A little museum--A pleasant library--Tireless enthusiasm--The garden--O...

15. Chapter 15

Uningratiating splendour--Doges and Heaven--Venetian pride--The most beautiful picture of all--A non-scriptural Tintoretto--The Sala del Collegio--The Sala del Senato--More Doge...

14. Chapter 14

The heart of Venice--Old-fashioned music--Teutonic invaders--The honeymooners--True republicanism--A city of the poor--The black shawls--A brief triumph--Red hair--A band-night...

33. Chapter 33

The Scuola di S. Rocco--Defective lighting--A competition of artists--The life of the Virgin--A dramatic Annunciation--Ruskin's analysis--S. Mary of Egypt--The upper hall--"The...

13. Chapter 13

Vandal guides--Emperor and Pope--The Bible in mosaic--The Creation of the world--Cain and Abel--Noah--The story of Joseph--The golden horses--A horseless city--A fiction gross a...

32. Chapter 32

Walking in Venice--The late Colonel Douglas--Shops--The Merceria clock--S. Zulian--S. Salvatore--Sansovino--Carlo Goldoni--the Campo Bartolommeo and Mr. Howells--S. Giovanni Cri...

22. Chapter 22

The beautiful Marianna--Rum-punch--The Palazzo Albrizzi--A play at the Fenice--The sick _Ballerina_--The gondola--Praise of Italy--_Beppo_--_Childe Harold_--Riding on the Lido--...

17. Chapter 17

The two columns--An ingenious engineer--S. Mark's lion--S. Theodore of Heraclea--The Old Library--Jacopo Sansovino--The Venetian Brunelleschi--Vasari's life--A Venetian library-...

16. Chapter 16

The colour of Venice--Sunny Gothic--A magical edifice--The evolution of a palace--A fascinating balcony--The carved capitals--A responsible column--The _Porta della Carta_--The...

39. Chapter 39

The Palazzo Giovanelli--A lovely picture--A superb innovator--Pictures for houses--_The Tempest_--Byron's criticism--Giorgione and the experts--Vasari's estimate--Leonardo da Vi...

31. Chapter 31

The Ponte di Paglia--A gondolier's shrine--The modern prison--Danieli's--A Canaletto--S. Zaccaria--A good Bellini--A funeral service--Alessandro Vittorio--S. Giovanni in Bragora...

12. Chapter 12

Rival cathedrals--The lure of S. Mark's--The façade at night--The Doge's device--S. Mark's body--A successful theft--Miracle pictures--Mosaic patterns--The central door--Two pro...

26. Chapter 26

The important rooms--Venetian art in London--The ceiling of the thousand wings--Some early painters--Titian's "Assumption"--Tintoretto's "Miracle of S. Mark"--A triumph of novel...

24. Chapter 24

The Campo Santo--The Vivarini--The glass-blowers--An artist at work--S. Pietro--A good Bellini--A keen sacristan--S. Donato--A foreign church--An enthusiast--Signor "Rooskin"--T...

21. Chapter 21

The Scalzi--The Labia Palace--The missing cicerone--Tiepolo and Cleopatra--S. Marcuola and Titian--A maker of oars--The death of Wagner--Frescoes on palaces--The Ca' d'Oro--Baro...

19. Chapter 19

The Palazzo Rezzonico--Mr. and Mrs. Browning--Browning's Venetian routine--In praise of Goldoni--Browning's death--A funeral service--Love of Italy--The Giustiniani family--A la...

37. Chapter 37

The Dogana--A scene of shipping--The Giudecca Canal--On the Zattere--The debt of Venice to Ruskin--An artists' bridge--The painters of Venice--Turner and Whistler--A removal--S....

20. Chapter 20

The big palace on the other side of the Rio Foscari, next the shabby brown, deserted house which might be made so desirable with its view down the Canal, is the Balbi, and it ha...

18. Chapter 18

The river of Venice--Canal steamers--Motor boats--Venetian nobility to-day--The great architects--A desirable enactment--The custom house vane--The Seminario and Giorgione--S. M...

29. Chapter 29

Busy water--The lantern concerts--Venice and modern inventions--Fireworks in perfection--S. Giorgio Maggiore--Palladian architecture--Two Tintorettos--The Life of S. Benedict--R...

34. Chapter 34

Outside, the Frari--whose full title is Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari--is worth more attention than it wins. At the first glance it is a barn built of millions of bricks; but i...

35. Chapter 35

It is important to reach SS. Giovanni e Paolo by gondola, because the canals are particularly fascinating between this point and, say, the Molo. If one embarks at the Molo (whic...

28. Chapter 28

A number of small rooms which are mostly negligible now occur. Longhi is here, with his little society scenes; Tiepolo, with some masterly swaggering designs; Giambettino Cignar...

27. Chapter 27

In Room XV are the Santa Croce miracles. The Holy Cross was brought by Filippo da Massaro and presented to the Scuola di S. Giovanni Evangelista. Every year it was carried in so...

38. Chapter 38

Among the smaller beauties of Venice--its cabinet architectural gems, so to speak--S. Maria dei Miracoli comes first. This little church, so small as to be almost a casket, is t...

23. Chapter 23

The next palace, with dark-blue posts, gold-topped, and mural inscriptions, also belonged to the Mocenigo, and here Giordano Bruno was staying as a guest when he was betrayed by...

36. Chapter 36

I do not know that there is any need to visit the Arsenal museum except perhaps for the pleasure of being in a Venetian show place where no one expects a tip. It has not much of...

25. Chapter 25

Leaving the Piazza at the corner diagonally opposite the Merceria clock, we come at once into the busy Salizzada S. Moïse, where the shops for the more expensive tourists are to...

11. Chapter 11

I have no doubt whatever that, if the diversion can be arranged, the perfect way for the railway traveller to approach Venice for the first time is from Chioggia, in the afternoon.

10. Chapter 10

30. Chapter 30

life by a truly delightful Madonna and Child, with two little celestial musicians playing a lullaby, said to be by Bellini, but more probably by Alvise Vivarini, and two compani...

1. Chapter 1

2. Chapter 2

3. Chapter 3

4. Chapter 4

5. Chapter 5

6. Chapter 6

7. Chapter 7

8. Chapter 8

9. Chapter 9