Travel

A Wanderer in Paris

Most travellers from London enter Paris in the evening, and I think they are wise. I wish it were possible again and again to enter Paris in the evening for the first time; but since it is not, let me hasten to say that the pleasure of re-entering Paris in the evening is one t...

Chapters

13. CHAPTER IX

A Dangerous Crossing--An Ill-omened Place--Louis the XVI. in Prosperity and Adversity--January 21st, 1793--The End of Robespierre--The Luxor Column--The Congress of Wheels--Engl...

24. CHAPTER XX

A Thoughtful Municipality--The Fall of the Bastille--Revolt and Revolution--The Column of July--A Paris Canal--Deliberate Building--The Buttes-Chaumont--A City of the Dead--Père...

22. CHAPTER XVIII

The Most Interesting Streets--Pet Aversions--The Rue de la Paix--The Vendôme Column--A Populous Church--The Whiff of Grapeshot--Alfred de Musset--The Molière Quarter--A Green an...

7. CHAPTER III

Pagan Origins and Christian Predecessors--The Beginnings of Notre Dame--Victor Hugo--The Dangers of Renovation--Old Glass and New--A Wedding--The Cathedral's Great Moment--The H...

6. CHAPTER II

Paris Old and New--The Heart of France--Saint Louis--Old Palaces--Henri IV.'s Statue--Ironical Changes--The Seine and the Thames--The Quais and their Old Books--Diderot and the...

10. CHAPTER VI

The Winged Victory of Samothrace--Botticelli's Fresco--Luini--Ingres--The Salon Carré--La Joconde--Leonardo da Vinci--Pater, Lowell and Vasari--Early Collectors--Paul Veronese--...

15. CHAPTER XI

Old Prints--Procope, Tortoni, and Le Père Lunette--The Luxembourg Palace--Rodin--Modern Paintings--A Sinister Crypt--A Garden of Sculpture--The Students of the Latin Quarter--Th...

19. CHAPTER XV

The Green Hour--In the Stalls of Life--National Contrasts and the Futility of Drawing Them--The Concierge--The Bénéfice Hunters--The Claque--The Paris Theatre--The Paris Music H...

11. CHAPTER VII

French pictures early and late now await us. On our way down the Grande Galerie we passed on the right two entrances to other rooms. Taking that one which is nearer the British...

12. CHAPTER VIII

A Vanished Palace--The Most Magnificent Vista--Enter Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette--The Massacre of the Swiss Guards--The Blood of Paris--A Series of Disasters--The Growth of...

9. CHAPTER V

A £32,000,000 Rebuilding Scheme--Romance and Intrigue--The Temple--The Archives--Illustrious Handwriting--The "Uncle" of Paris--The Wall of Philip Augustus--Old Palaces now Rook...

20. CHAPTER XVI

The Christmas Baraques--The Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin--The Rue Laffitte--La Musée Grévin--The Bibliothèque Nationale--The Roar of Finance--Tailors as Cartoonists--A Bee-hive St...

21. CHAPTER XVII

Steep Streets--The Musée Moreau--The Sacré-Coeur--Françoise-Marguerite--Paris and Her Beggars--A Ferocious Cripple--The Communard Insurrection--The Maison Dufayel--Heinrich Hein...

17. CHAPTER XIII

The Tour d'Argent--Frédéric's Homage to America--A Marquis Poet--The Halle des Vins--A Free Zoo--Peacocks in Love--A Reminiscence--The Museums of the Jardin des Plantes--A Lifel...

18. CHAPTER XIV

From Temple to Church--Napoleon the Christian--The Chapelle Expiatoire--More Irony of History--Mi-Carême--The Art of Insolence--Spacious Streets--The Champions of France--Marius...

14. CHAPTER X

From the Invalides the Boulevard St. Germain, the west to east highway of the Surrey side of Paris, is easily gained; but it is not in itself very interesting. The interesting s...

16. CHAPTER XII

A Church's Vicissitudes--St. Geneviève--A Guardian of Paris--Illustrious Converts--_The Golden Legend_--A Sabbath-breaker--Geneviève's Sacred Body--Her Tomb--The Panthéon Fresco...

5. CHAPTER I

Most travellers from London enter Paris in the evening, and I think they are wise. I wish it were possible again and again to enter Paris in the evening for the first time; but...

8. CHAPTER IV

On the way from Notre Dame to the Ile St. Louis we pass a small official-looking building at the extreme east end of the Ile de la Cité. It is the Morgue.

23. CHAPTER XIX

Were we to walk a little farther along the busy Rue St. Antoine towards the Place de la Bastille, we should come, on the left, a few yards past the church of St. Louis, to the R...

4. CHAPTER XX

3. CHAPTER XVI

1. CHAPTER IX

2. CHAPTER XIV