Category: Travel Writing

A Wanderer in Holland

To Rotterdam by water--To Rotterdam by rail--Holland's monotony of scenery--Holland in England--Rotterdam's few merits--The life of the river--The Rhine--Walt Whitman--Crowded canals--Barge life--The Dutch high-ways--A perfect holiday--The canal's influence on the national cha...

Chapters

9. Chapter 9

Tulip culture--Early speculation--The song of the tulip--Dutch gardening new and old--A horticultural pilgrimage--The Haarlem dunes--Gardens without secrets--Zaandvoort--_Throug...

18. Chapter 18

Arnheim the Joyous--A wood walk--Tesselschade Visscher and the Chambers of Rhetoric--Epigrams--Poet friends--The nightingale--An Arnheim adventure--Ten years at one book--Dutch...

5. Chapter 5

Dutch precision--Shaping hands--Nature under control--Willow _v_. Neptune--The lost star--S'Gravenhage--The Mauritshuis--Rembrandt--The "School of Anatomy"--Jan Vermeer of Delft...

8. Chapter 8

Rembrandt of the Rhine--His early life at Leyden--Jan Steen--Jan van Goyen--Brewer and painter--Pictures for beer--Jan Steen's grave--His delicacy and charm--His native refineme...

10. Chapter 10

The Venice of the North--The beauty of gravity--No place for George Dyer--The Keizersgracht--Kalverstraat and Warmoes Straat--The Ghetto--Pile-driving--Erasmus's sarcasm--The ne...

14. Chapter 14

To Alkmaar by canal--The Cheese Market--The Weigh House clock--Buyers and sellers--The siege of Alkmaar--To Hoorn by sea--A Peaceful harbour--Hoorn's explorer sons--John Haring'...

3. Chapter 3

By water to Dordrecht--Her four rivers--The milkmaid and the coat of arms--The Staple of Dort--Overhanging houses--Albert Cuyp--Nicolas Maes--Ferdinand Bol--Ary Scheffer--G.H. B...

1. Chapter 1

To Rotterdam by water--To Rotterdam by rail--Holland's monotony of scenery--Holland in England--Rotterdam's few merits--The life of the river--The Rhine--Walt Whitman--Crowded c...

16. Chapter 16

An agricultural centre--A city of prosperity and health--The fair Frisians--Metal head-dresses--Silver work--The Chancellerie--A paradise of blue china--Jumping poles--The sea s...

4. Chapter 4

To Delft by canal--House-cleaning by immersion--The New Church--William the Silent's tomb--His assassin--The story of the crime--The tomb of Grotius--Dutch justice--The Old Chur...

7. Chapter 7

Steam-trams--Holland for the people--Quiet Leyden--The Meermansburg--Leyden's museums--The call of the open--Oliver Goldsmith--A view of the Dutch--"Polite Learning"--"The Trave...

13. Chapter 13

To Marken--An _opera-bouffe_ island--Cultivated and profitable simplicity--Broek-in-Waterland--Cow-damp--The two doors--Gingerbread and love--Dead cities--Monnickendam--The over...

17. Chapter 17

Fresh tea--Dutch meals--The Doelens--Groningen--Roman Catholic priests--The boys' penance--Luther and Erasmus--The peat country--Folk lore--Terburg--Thomas à Kempis--Zwolle--The...

2. Chapter 2

Hard things against the Dutch--Andrew Marvell's satire--The iniquity of living below sea-level--Historic sarcasms--"Invent a shovel and be a magistrate"--Heterogeneity--Foot war...

12. Chapter 12

The Dutch have several things to learn from the English; and there are certain lessons which we might acquire from them. To them we might impart the uses of the salt-spoon, and...

11. Chapter 11

Dutch art in the palmy days--The Renaissance--A miracle--What Holland did for painting--The "Night Watch"--Rembrandt's isolation--Captain Franz Banning Cocq--Elizabeth Bas--The...

20. Chapter 20

Middelburg once more--The Flushing baths--Shrimps and chivalry--A Dutch boy--Charles V. at Souburg--Flushing and the Spanish yoke--Philip and William the Silent--The capture of...

15. Chapter 15

The traveller from Amsterdam enters Free Frisia at Stavoren, once the home of kings and now a mere haven. A little steamer carries the passengers from Enkhuisen, while the cattl...

6. Chapter 6

Good Dutchmen when they die go to Scheveningen; but my heaven is elsewhere. To go thither is, however, no calamity, so long as one chooses the old road. It is being there that s...

19. Chapter 19

The friendly Zeelanders--A Spanish heritage--Deceptive Dutch towns--The Abbey Hotel--The Abbey of St. Nicholas--Middelburg's art--Sentimental songs--The great Tacius--The siege...