Category: Travel Writing

A Wanderer in Holland

To Rotterdam by water--To Rotterdam by rail--Holland's monotony of scenery--Holland in England--Rotterdam's few merits--The life of the river--The Rhine--Walt Whitman--Crowded canals--Barge life--The Dutch high-ways--A perfect holiday--The canal's influence on the national cha...

Chapters

1. Chapter 1

To Rotterdam by water--To Rotterdam by rail--Holland's monotony of scenery--Holland in England--Rotterdam's few merits--The life of the river--The Rhine--Walt Whitman--Crowded c...

2. Chapter 2

Hard things against the Dutch--Andrew Marvell's satire--The iniquity of living below sea-level--Historic sarcasms--"Invent a shovel and be a magistrate"--Heterogeneity--Foot war...

3. Chapter 3

By water to Dordrecht--Her four rivers--The milkmaid and the coat of arms--The Staple of Dort--Overhanging houses--Albert Cuyp--Nicolas Maes--Ferdinand Bol--Ary Scheffer--G.H. B...

4. Chapter 4

To Delft by canal--House-cleaning by immersion--The New Church--William the Silent's tomb--His assassin--The story of the crime--The tomb of Grotius--Dutch justice--The Old Chur...

5. Chapter 5

Dutch precision--Shaping hands--Nature under control--Willow _v_. Neptune--The lost star--S'Gravenhage--The Mauritshuis--Rembrandt--The "School of Anatomy"--Jan Vermeer of Delft...

6. Chapter 6

Good Dutchmen when they die go to Scheveningen; but my heaven is elsewhere. To go thither is, however, no calamity, so long as one chooses the old road. It is being there that s...

7. Chapter 7

Steam-trams--Holland for the people--Quiet Leyden--The Meermansburg--Leyden's museums--The call of the open--Oliver Goldsmith--A view of the Dutch--"Polite Learning"--"The Trave...

8. Chapter 8

Rembrandt of the Rhine--His early life at Leyden--Jan Steen--Jan van Goyen--Brewer and painter--Pictures for beer--Jan Steen's grave--His delicacy and charm--His native refineme...

9. Chapter 9

Tulip culture--Early speculation--The song of the tulip--Dutch gardening new and old--A horticultural pilgrimage--The Haarlem dunes--Gardens without secrets--Zaandvoort--_Throug...

10. Chapter 10

The Venice of the North--The beauty of gravity--No place for George Dyer--The Keizersgracht--Kalverstraat and Warmoes Straat--The Ghetto--Pile-driving--Erasmus's sarcasm--The ne...

11. Chapter 11

Dutch art in the palmy days--The Renaissance--A miracle--What Holland did for painting--The "Night Watch"--Rembrandt's isolation--Captain Franz Banning Cocq--Elizabeth Bas--The...

12. Chapter 12

The Dutch have several things to learn from the English; and there are certain lessons which we might acquire from them. To them we might impart the uses of the salt-spoon, and...

13. Chapter 13

To Marken--An _opera-bouffe_ island--Cultivated and profitable simplicity--Broek-in-Waterland--Cow-damp--The two doors--Gingerbread and love--Dead cities--Monnickendam--The over...

14. Chapter 14

To Alkmaar by canal--The Cheese Market--The Weigh House clock--Buyers and sellers--The siege of Alkmaar--To Hoorn by sea--A Peaceful harbour--Hoorn's explorer sons--John Haring'...

15. Chapter 15

The traveller from Amsterdam enters Free Frisia at Stavoren, once the home of kings and now a mere haven. A little steamer carries the passengers from Enkhuisen, while the cattl...

16. Chapter 16

An agricultural centre--A city of prosperity and health--The fair Frisians--Metal head-dresses--Silver work--The Chancellerie--A paradise of blue china--Jumping poles--The sea s...

17. Chapter 17

Fresh tea--Dutch meals--The Doelens--Groningen--Roman Catholic priests--The boys' penance--Luther and Erasmus--The peat country--Folk lore--Terburg--Thomas à Kempis--Zwolle--The...

18. Chapter 18

Arnheim the Joyous--A wood walk--Tesselschade Visscher and the Chambers of Rhetoric--Epigrams--Poet friends--The nightingale--An Arnheim adventure--Ten years at one book--Dutch...

19. Chapter 19

The friendly Zeelanders--A Spanish heritage--Deceptive Dutch towns--The Abbey Hotel--The Abbey of St. Nicholas--Middelburg's art--Sentimental songs--The great Tacius--The siege...

20. Chapter 20

Middelburg once more--The Flushing baths--Shrimps and chivalry--A Dutch boy--Charles V. at Souburg--Flushing and the Spanish yoke--Philip and William the Silent--The capture of...