Category: Travel Writing

A Wanderer in Florence

The real name of the Duomo is the Cathedral of S. Maria del Fiore, or St. Mary of the Flowers, the flower being the Florentine lily. Florence herself is called the City of Flowers, and that, in the spring and summer, is a happy enough description. But in the winter it fails. A...

Chapters

16. Chapter 16

Plastic art--Blood-soaked stones--The faithful artists--Michelangelo--Italian custodians--The famous Davids--Michelangelo's tondo--Brutus--Benedetto da Rovezzano--Donatello's li...

20. Chapter 20

Andrea del Castagno--"The Last Supper"--The stolen Madonna--Fra Angelico's frescoes--"Little Antony"--The good archbishop--The Buonuomini--Savonarola--The death of Lorenzo the M...

27. Chapter 27

The human form divine and waxen--Galileo--Bianca Capella--A faithful Grand Duke--S. Spirito--The Carmine--Masaccio's place in art--Leonardo's summary--The S. Peter frescoes--The...

7. Chapter 7

who made the little city an aesthetic lawgiver to the world and with whom her later fame, good or ill, is indissolubly united. For the rest, is there not the library?

9. Chapter 9

The little Bigallo--The Misericordia--Or San Michele--Andrea Orcagna--The Tabernacle--Old Glass--A company of stone saints--Donatello's S. George--Dante conferences--The Guilds...

18. Chapter 18

The Accademia delle Belle Arti is in the Via Ricasoli, that street which seen from the top of the Campanile is the straightest thing in Florence, running like a ruled line from...

8. Chapter 8

A forlorn façade--The church of the Medici--Cosimo's parents' tomb--Donatello's cantoria and pulpits--Brunelleschi's sacristy--Donatello again--The palace of the dead Grand Duke...

25. Chapter 25

Luca Pitti's pride--Preliminary caution--A terrace view--A collection but not a gallery--The personally-conducted--Giorgione the superb--Sustermans--The "Madonna del Granduca"--...

13. Chapter 13

S. Zenobius--Piero della Francesca--Federigo da Montefeltro--Melozzo da Forli--The Tribuna--Raphael--Re-arrangement--The gems--The self-painted portraits--A northern room--Hugo...

17. Chapter 17

The piazza S. Croce now belongs to children. The church is at one end, bizarre buildings are on either side, the Dante statue is in the middle, and harsh gravel covers the groun...

23. Chapter 23

The great churches of Florence--A Dominican cathedral--The "Decameron" begins--Domenico Ghirlandaio--Alessio Baldovinetti--The Louvre--The S. Maria Novella frescoes--Giovanni an...

11. Chapter 11

The first and second rooms are Venetian; but I am inclined to think that it is better to take the second door on the left--the first Tuscan salon--and walking straight across it...

24. Chapter 24

A city of trams--The old market--Donatello's figure of Abundance--An evening resort--A hall of variety--Florentines of to-day--The war with Turkey--Homecoming heroes--Restaurant...

5. Chapter 5

A short way with Veronese critics--Giotto's missing spire--Donatello's holy men--Giotto as encyclopaedist--The seven and twenty reliefs--Ruskin in American--At the top of the to...

3. Chapter 3

Dante's picture--Sir John Hawkwood--Ancestor and Descendant--The Pazzi Conspiracy--Squeamish Montesecco--Giuliano de' Medici dies--Lorenzo's escape--Vengeance on the Pazzi--Bott...

15. Chapter 15

Opposite the Bargello is a church with a very beautiful doorway designed by Benedetto da Rovezzano. This church is known as the Badia, and its delicate spire is a joy in the lan...

12. Chapter 12

A painter apart--Sandro Filipepi--Artists' names--Piero de' Medici--The "Adoration of the Magi"--The "Judith" pictures--Lucrezia Tornabuoni, Lorenzo and Giuliano's mother--The T...

19. Chapter 19

Everyone who merely visits Florence holds it a duty to bring home at least one flask of the Val d'Ema liqueur from the Carthusian monastery four or five miles distant from the c...

2. Chapter 2

The real name of the Duomo is the Cathedral of S. Maria del Fiore, or St. Mary of the Flowers, the flower being the Florentine lily. Florence herself is called the City of Flowe...

26. Chapter 26

Casa Guidi--The Brownings--Giotto's missing spire--James Russell Lowell--Lander's early life--Fra Bartolommeo before Raphael--The Tuscan gardener--The "Villa Landor" to-day--Sto...

21. Chapter 21

Andrea del Sarto again--Franciabigio outraged--Alessio Baldovinetti--Piero de' Medici's church--An Easter Sunday congregation--Andrea's "Madonna del Sacco"--"The Statue and the...

22. Chapter 22

Florence's Bois de Boulogne--Shelley--The races--The game of Pallone--SS. Ognissanti--Botticelli and Ghirlandaio--Amerigo Vespucci--The Platonic Academy's garden--Alberti's Pala...

4. Chapter 4

In the last chapter we saw the Pazzi family as very black sheep, although there are plenty of students of Florentine history who hold that any attempt to rid Florence of the Med...

10. Chapter 10

The growth of a gallery--Vasari's Passaggio--Cosimo I--Francis I--Ferdinand I--Ferdinand II--Cosimo III--Anna Maria Ludovica de' Medici--Pietro-Leopoldo--The statues of the faça...

14. Chapter 14

After all these pictures, how about a little climbing? From so many windows in Florence, along so many streets, from so many loggias and towers, and perhaps, above all, from the...

1. Chapter 1

6. Chapter 6

An evasion of history--"Il Caparra"--The Gozzoli frescoes--Giovanni de' Medici (di Bicci)--Cosimo de' Medici--The first banishment--Piero de' Medici--Lorenzo de' Medici--Piero d...

28. Chapter 28

Wordsworth, by the way, when he visited Vallombrosa with Crabb Robinson in 1837, wrote an inferior poem there, in a rather common metre, in honour of Milton's association with it.