Part 1

A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN; CONTAINING AN Account of that Country, OF THE ZOOLOGY OF THE NORTH; OF THE SHETLAND ISLES; AND OF THE WHALE FISHERY.

WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING

An Historical Account of the DUTCH, ENGLISH, and AMERICAN WHALE FISHERIES; some Important Observations on the VARIATION OF THE COMPASS, &c.; and some Extracts from Mr. SCORESBY’S Paper on “POLAR ICE.”

BY JOHN LAING, SURGEON.

_A NEW EDITION._

EDINBURGH: PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR.

1825.

PRINTED BY A. BALFOUR & CO.

TO JOHN R. M’CULLOCH, ESQ.

THIS LITTLE WORK IS INSCRIBED, AS A SMALL TESTIMONY OF THE ESTEEM AND GRATITUDE OF HIS MUCH OBLIGED, AND SINCERE FRIEND,

THE AUTHOR.

ADVERTISEMENT.

_The Journal I kept when on board the Resolution in 1806, is taken as the basis of the subsequent little Work. It may, however, be looked upon as containing the observations I made both in 1806 and 1807, as I have engrossed into the Narration whatever I observed of consequence the following year._

ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN.

In the year 1806, being at the University of Edinburgh, an advertisement was put on the College Gate, by Messrs. P. and C. Wood, merchants, Leith, intimating that a surgeon was wanted for the ship Resolution of Whitby, Yorkshire, engaged in the North Sea whale-fishery.

Impelled by curiosity, and by a still more powerful motive, to visit the snow-clad coast of Spitzbergen, I applied; and was, after due examination, admitted surgeon for the voyage.

Nothing particular occurred on my journey from this to Whitby, where I arrived on Sunday the 16th of March, and was, in every respect, comfortably accommodated at the house of the Captain.

As we did not sail for several days after my arrival, I spent a considerable part of my time in making such remarks on the town as were particularly interesting.

Whitby is a thriving sea-port in the North Riding of Yorkshire, situated on the mouth of the river Esk. It is chiefly celebrated for the manufacture of canvas, and for the extensive alum works in its neighbourhood. Its harbour is the best on this coast, and has a fine pier; but it has no river communication with the interior country. Behind the pier is a battery which mounts twelve eighteen-pounders. This town was formerly noted for its Abbey, of which some ruins still remaining testify its ancient magnificence.

Here are different houses of worship, viz. an elegant church of the established religion; and several meeting-houses belonging to Presbyterians, Quakers, Methodists, Roman Catholics, &c.

Whitby is 50 miles north-east of York, and 243 north of London; Lat. 54° 30´ North, Long. 1° 55´ West.

The word Whitby is a contraction of its original appellation White Bay, so called from the white surges made by the breaking of the waves along the shore, so that the whole bay assumes a white or frothy appearance to a person standing upon the opposite banks.

Contiguous to this place, in a town called Marton, was born that great circumnavigator Captain James Cook, whose barometer (that which he used in his voyage of discovery) we had on board the Resolution.

Between Whitby and Lyth, a small town distant about four miles, is a beautiful level strand, generally known by the name of Whitby Sands, upon which there used to be annual races; but now they are less frequent.

Adjacent to Lyth, is the seat of the Mulgrave family, one of whom, Constantine John Phipps, (afterwards Lord Mulgrave), in 1773, undertook a voyage, by his Majesty’s command, towards the North Pole, under the hopes of discovering a passage to the East Indies in a north-east direction: but in which he, like many others, did not succeed.

Among the sands on the shore are found stones resembling snakes without heads, the “_Cornu ammonis_” of naturalists. These stones are easily known by circular, or rather spiral windings marked on their outside. One of these being broken, its interior exhibits the appearance of a snake rolled up and ready to make a spring.

That these are petrified snakes, is really believed by the peasants on the coast, concerning which they tell the following whimsical story:

An old lady, say they, who lived in that neighbourhood some centuries back, having procured a charm, or spell, to banish some noxious reptiles with which that part of the country was then cruelly harassed, set to work, and, by her incantations, collected all the snakes within a considerable distance, and brought them to the banks of Whitby, whence she hurried them down so precipitately on the strand, that they all broke their necks, and of course, in their petrified state, are found without heads[1].

[1] They affirm that this part of the coast has never since been frequented by those venomous creatures, although they are quite common in other parts of the kingdom. _Credat cui placeat._

Not many years ago Whitby sent upwards of twenty vessels to Greenland; but afterwards that trade fell much to decay, until it was latterly revived by the persevering activity of Captain Scoresby, whose many successful whale-fishing voyages tended greatly to promote the opulence of this town, by encouraging others to embark in the same lucrative business.

The Resolution, in which I made this voyage, was a stout new ship, of about four hundred tons burden, fitted out as a letter of marque, carrying twelve six-pounders, besides stern-chasers, and well furnished with firelocks, pistols, swords, cutlasses, bayonets, &c. She was provided with nine fishing boats, and her crew consisted of between sixty and seventy men.

Greenland voyages are generally performed in the course of four or five months; but, lest vessels should be detained by the ice beyond that time, they have usually nine months provision on board.

Our ship was abundantly supplied with good beef, pork, bacon, flour, oat-meal, biscuit, peas, potatoes, cheese, butter, molasses, preserved fruit, fowls, eggs, dried fish, strong ale, small beer, English brandy, tea, coffee, sugar, tobacco, besides plenty of foreign spirits and wines for the use of the cabin. Neither was there any cost spared in laying in an ample supply of proper medicines and cordials for the sick.

Early on the morning of the 23d of March we set sail from Whitby, amidst the hearty cheers of a numerous concourse of spectators.

Being favoured with a fresh breeze which caused a heavy swell, a general sickness prevailed at our first setting out, from which the most experienced seamen were not exempted, and which affected me so severely, as to preclude all possibility of making any remarks previous to our landing in Shetland.

On the 25th at noon, we cast anchor in Bressay Sound, opposite Lerwick, the capital of the Shetland Isles.

This town is situated in Mainland, so called from its being the principal of these Isles. It is about half a mile long, and is irregularly built; but contains some good houses, and is inhabited by about one thousand eight hundred persons. It is the seat of the courts held by the Sheriff-depute, or Stewart-depute. Two packets, or traders, having good cabins, and tolerable accommodation for passengers, sail occasionally between this and Leith.

Lerwick derives its chief support from the courts of law, and from the vessels employed in the whale-fishery making this harbour their rendezvous.

Near the north end of the town stands Fort Charlotte, a small fortification mounting eighteen large guns, from eighteen to thirty pounders, besides several very large field pieces. It commands the north entry to Bressay Sound, and is garrisoned by a small detachment of invalids.

In the neighbourhood of this town there is a chalybeate spring, but it is not much esteemed for its medical virtues.

Bressay Sound lies between Lerwick and Bressay Island, and forms an extensive and commodious harbour, in which 1000 vessels well found may ride at all seasons in the greatest safety. Here the Dutch herring fleet used to rendezvous about the middle of June. This harbour has the particular advantage of two entries, one from the south, and another from the north.

On the outside of the north entry lies a sunk rock, called the Unicorn. On this rock was wrecked the Unicorn man-of-war sent out in pursuit of the Earl of Bothwell, who fled to Shetland; hence the rock has its name. The paltry village of Scallaway lies also on the Mainland, and has an excellent harbour. Near this is the ancient castle of Scallaway, built by one of the Earls of Orkney.

These are the only two towns, or villages, in the Shetland Isles.

Mainland is upwards of sixty miles long from north to south; and in some places upwards of twelve miles in breadth; it is so shaped, that no part of it lies above _three miles from the sea_; and consists of a great multitude of irregular promontories, and a vast number of peninsulæ connected by narrow isthmuses, insomuch that it abounds with bays and harbours almost innumerable.

In the parish of North Mevan, a peninsula belonging to this Island, stands the cloud-capt mountain of Rona, the highest in Shetland. It is eight miles long, four broad, and three thousand nine hundred and forty-four geometrical feet above the level of the sea; serving for a land-mark to fishers and vessels coming from the Northern Ocean. From the top of this lofty eminence the eye commands an extensive and pleasing prospect, stretching fifty miles at least in every direction. The great number of small islands and peninsulas scattered beneath, and often a distant view of vessels, in summer, affords a most agreeable diversified scene.

On the summit of this mountain stands a house, called the watch-house, in which six or seven men can sit. It is constructed of four large stones, covered by two more for a roof, on the top of which is erected a pyramidal tower of small stones.

In the same parish stands a rock rising perpendicular on all sides to a vast height, which, at a few miles’ distance, looks like a ship under full sail. Near to this are two very high inaccessible pillars, on which the large species of cormorants breed. What is extraordinary, the rocks possessed by these birds one year is deserted the next, and returned to again after being a year unpossessed. This singular practice has been carried on time immemorial.

Here is a small isle, called Dorholm, perforated by a vast arch, seventy feet in height, under which boats fish, having light from an opening at the top.

Next to this is the holm and isle of Stenness, so much celebrated for the great number of kittiweaks which resort to it; the young of which being esteemed delicious food, are taken in great abundance.

To the north of Stenness is the Maiden Skerry, a rock so called from its having never been trodden on by man. The lofty rock called the Ocean Skerry, stands about two miles from this, and serves as a good landmark for ships wanting a harbour in their passage from the north.

Not far from this rock is the island of Papa, having a natural cave of three entrances, through which the tide ebbs and flows. It has several apartments, and is wide enough to admit a large boat with the oars at full length on each side. This gloomy cavern grows gradually wider towards the centre, which nature has ornamented with a beautiful arch. Beyond this, the boat is directed by a small gleam of light from an aperture in the top.

The island of Bressay lies to the east of Mainland, and is about four miles long, and two broad.

Adjoining to this Island, and on the south-east side of it, lies the small but fertile Island of Noss, the south headland of which is not less than four hundred and eighty feet in perpendicular height. Opposite to this, and distant ninety-six feet from the island, stands another perpendicular rock or holm, of the same height, quite level at the top, and producing excellent pasture for sheep.

To transport them there, however, might well have been thought impossible; but human ingenuity requires only the exhibition of difficulties in order to overcome them. An islander climbed up the rock, and having fastened some ropes to stakes he drove into the soil on the top, threw them across the intervening chasm to the headland, where they were in like manner fastened. A cradle or basket was then drawn along these ropes, and sheep are thus transported to, and from the holm; and the eggs or young of the sea-fowl, which there breed in vast numbers, fall an easy prey to the skill and industry of man.

The adventurous islander who first ascended the holm, and showed the possibility of joining it to the island, from an excess of bravery, met with an untimely end. Disdaining to pass over in the cradle, and trusting that the same expertness which had conducted him to the summit of the rock would enable him to descend to its base,--he fell, and was dashed to pieces.

“_Quem si non tenuit, magnis tamen excidit ausis._”

It may be observed, that both men and horses are transported over the rapid rivers of South America in a similar manner. Vid. _Ull. Voyage de l’Amerique_, vol. i. p. 358.

As there is a considerable discrepancy in authors as to the height of this rock, and the breadth of the chasm; and not having myself an opportunity of examining it, I have followed the account given by the accurate Pennant in his _Arctic Zoology_.

The erection of a light-house on the Island of Noss would be of essential service to the interests of navigation. Many valuable ships, and, among others, a Russian frigate of 38 guns, have been lost on the east coast of the Shetland Isles.

To the north of Mainland lies Yell, an Island twenty miles long, and nearly twelve broad, with several good harbours, or voes, as they are called by the inhabitants.

Foula lies to the west of Mainland. It is about three miles long, and one and a half broad, and has only one harbour. This is called Ham, and is much resorted to by fishermen. Foula is thought by some to be that island which the ancients reckoned the ultimate limit of the habitable globe, and to which, therefore, they gave the appellation of “Ultima Thule.” This supposition is not founded solely on the mere analogy of the name, but also on the authority of Tacitus, who, speaking of the victories obtained by Agricola, and how far he penetrated northward, uses this expression: “_Insulas quas Orcadas vocant invenit domuitque; dispecta est et Thule quadamtenus._” _Tacit. Vit. Agric._ §10. But though the high land of Foula may be easily seen, in a clear day, from the northern part of the Orkneys, still it is doubtful whether this be really the island so called; because had the Roman fleet passed to the north of the Orkneys, they must have seen Mainland, Yell, and Unst, lying to the north of Foula. It may be further observed, that the description of Thule, as given by Pomp. Mela, lib. 3, §6, and Pliny, lib. 2, §75, and lib. 4, §16, is not reconcileable with the supposition of its being identical with Foula. At Thule, says Pomponius, “_Per Solstitium vero nullae (noctes sunt) quod tum jam manifestior non fulgorem modo sed sui quoque partem maximam ostentat._” This phenomenon, as Vossius has observed, can only belong to the 66th and 67th degree of latitude, and gives considerable countenance to the opinion of Thule being the same with Iceland.

The statement of Pliny, who is not celebrated for geographical accuracy, is alike irreconcileable with either hypothesis, and belongs only to the Pole itself.

These, (with the exception of Unst,) are all the islands belonging to Shetland that are worth notice, though they are nearly forty in number. About seventeen of these are inhabited; the rest being inconsiderable, are called Holms, and used only for pasture.

On our arrival in Bressay Sound, there were anchored twenty-six ships from London, Hull, and Whitby, each of which, in turn, gave us three cheers, which we as often returned. All these ships were waiting for men, it being the place where most of the ships bound to the Greenland fishery call at to make up their complement.

The Captain finding men very scarce, and wages high, did not engage any hands at Lerwick. We afterwards weighed anchor, and sailed out of the north entrance for Balti Sound, Island of Unst.

Balti Sound is in the middle of the east side of the island, into which it stretches nearly two miles. Before the entrance, is a large narrow island, called Balti, whence the Sound derives its name, and which shelters it from all winds, forming an excellent safe harbour or anchoring place. If a ship be leaky, there are several very commodious beaches on which she may be laid until thoroughly repaired. This harbour used to be the most frequented of any in Shetland, especially by ships going to Archangel and Greenland.

Unst, the remotest of the Shetland Isles, and most northern part of his Britannic Majesty’s dominions, is supposed to be about eight miles long and four broad.

A hill called Vallafield rises within a mile and a half of its northern extremity, and runs directly parallel to the western coast, to the very northern point. It is six hundred feet high. At right angles with this hill, stands Crossfield, nearly in the middle of the island. To the north lies Saxaforth, which is seven hundred feet high. It is the highest in the island, and may be seen upwards of forty miles off the coast. A hill, called Vordhill, runs parallel to the east coast.

Among these hills are tracts of level fertile ground, and the highest hill is some feet covered with black moss. Unst contains many fresh water lochs. That of Cliff is two miles long, and nearly half a mile broad. The banks of this loch exhibit pleasant and most beautiful scenery. From this loch a few smaller ones run to the southern part of the island.

The headlands here rise to the height of sixty or seventy fathoms; but the shores of the bays and harbours are low and sandy.

About this island are scattered here and there a great many very small ones.

Around the coast are several curious natural caves. One at Sha has its roof supported by octagonal pillars.

At Burra Firth are a vast number of small caves, running from the sea under the hills. One of these only is entered once a-year, and robbed of the seals which frequent it. The rest are mostly inaccessible.

To the east of this, under an arm of the hill of Saxaforth, is a magnificent natural arch, three hundred feet long, and of a considerable height, through which a boat can row.

The Shetland Isles, (called by the Dutch, Zetland; and, by the Danes, Yetland,) lie between sixty and sixty-one degrees of north latitude, and have their longest day about nineteen, and their shortest about five hours.

These islands, with those of the Orkneys, make one of the counties of Scotland, which send a representative to the British Parliament.

The climate of these, as of all other isles of like size, is far from being settled. The atmosphere is, in general moist. They have also heavy snows, but not much frost; and are often visited by dreadful storms of wind, rain, and thunder, in so much that the water is agitated even to the bottom of these comparatively shallow seas.

Owing to the great refraction of northern latitudes, for about three months in summer they enjoy the sight of the sun almost without intermission; but for the same space in winter, (especially in December,) that luminary hardly rises above the horizon, and is commonly obscured by clouds and mists.

“The sun from far shows with a sickly face, Too weak the fogs and mighty dews to chase.”

In this gloomy season, the absence of day is supplied partly by moon-light, and partly by the radiance of the _aurora borealis_, or merry-dancers, as they are called in these islands. These are the constant attendants of clear evenings, and prove great reliefs, amidst the gloom of the dark winter night. They commonly appear at twilight, near the horizon, of a dun colour, approaching to yellow; sometimes continuing in that state for several hours without any apparent motion, after which they break out into streams of stronger light, spreading into columns, and altering slowly into ten thousand different shapes, varying their colours from all the lines of yellow to the most obscure russet. They often cover the whole hemisphere, and then make the most brilliant appearance. Their motions at these times are amazingly quick; and they astonish the spectator with the rapid change of their form. They break out in places where none were seen before, skimming briskly along the heavens: are suddenly extinguished, and leave behind an uniform dusky tract. This again is brilliantly illuminated in the same manner, and as suddenly left a dull blank. In certain nights they assume the appearance of vast columns, on one side of the deepest yellow, on the other declining away, till it become undistinguished from the sky.

They have generally a strong tremulous motion from end to end, which continues till the whole vanish. According to the state of the atmosphere, they differ in colours. They often assume the colour of blood, and make a most dreadful appearance. The rustic sages represent these phenomena as prognosticative of future events, and thereby affright the gaping multitude with dread of war, famine, and pestilential devastations. Vid. Pen. _Arct. Zool._ vol. i. p. 27.

The ebb tides here run north, and the flood tides to the southward, unless on the north and south extremities of the country, where they run east and west; but their rapidity is inconsiderable when compared to that of the firths of Orkney.

The shores are generally lofty, and rise almost perpendicular from the ocean.

I went out with the captain in one of the ship’s boats, and sailed round some of the headlands of Unst. The scene was truly sublime:--fogs immured their summits; the noise of the sea dashing against the rocks;[2] and the screams of the eagles and other birds of prey, which there enjoy perfect security; combined with the sombre and terrific appearance exhibited by these bulwarks of nature, impressed us with awe and a pleasing kind of astonishment. The prospect to me was quite novel. I had formerly been familiar only with champaign countries; but I had no difficulty in declaring, that it was from some such scene as this only, that one could form an adequate conception of natural magnificence.

[2] _Planctus illisæ cautibus undæ._

The face of the country exhibits a prospect of black craggy mountains and marshy plains, interspersed with some verdant spots which appear smooth and fertile. Neither tree nor shrub is to be seen, except the juniper and heath.

“Throughout the horrid wild no tree was seen, Earth, clad in russet, scorn’d the lively green.”

This want of trees and shrubs is the more remarkable, as in different parts of these islands there are evident marks of their having been once a wooded country. In the island of Foula are often found the remains of large trees laid bare by the violence of some tempest, carrying away the strata which covered them. At present, however, no kind of wood can be made grow; and it is found extremely difficult to cultivate even the lowest and most common shrub. This decrease of vegetation has not been satisfactorily accounted for.