Part 1

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VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, VOLUME I

Including Travels in Africa, Asia, Australasia, America, etc. etc. from MDCCCXXVII to MDCCCXXXII

BY

JAMES HOLMAN, R.N. F.R.S. ETC. ETC.

1834

"Man loves knowledge: and the beams of truth More welcome touch his understanding's eye, Than all the blandishments of sounds his ear, Than all of taste his tongue."

--Akenside.

ADVERTISEMENT.

It is necessary to observe that this Work is designed to extend to 4 vols., to be published in regular succession; each Volume to embrace a distinct portion of the whole, and to be complete in itself. The entire publication will form a consecutive series of the Author's Voyages and Travels Round the World.

The present Volume contains:--Madeira--Teneriffe--St. Jago--Sierra Leone--Cape Coast--Accra--Fernando Po--Bonny, Calabar, and other Rivers in the Bight of Biafra--Prince's Island--Ascension--Rio Janeiro--and Journey to the Gold Mines.

[Note: The beginning of this dedication was missing from the text.]

...that your Majesty may long be spared to a nation that is so sensible of the influence of your Majesty's exalted character.

With the most profound feelings of gratitude and devotion,

I have the honor to subscribe myself,

Your Majesty's Most faithful Servant,

JAMES HOLMAN.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

CHAP. I.

Passion for Travelling--Author's peculiar Situation--Motives for going Abroad--Resources for the Blind--Embark in the Eden, Capt. Owen, for Sierra Leone--Lord High Admiral at Plymouth--Cape Finisterre--Arrival at Madeira--Town of Funchal--Wines of Madeira--Cultivation of the Grape--Table of Exports--Seizure of Gin--Fruits and Vegetables--Climate --Coffee, Tea, and Sugar Cultivation--Palanquin Travelling--Departure from Madeira

CHAP. II.

Teneriffe--Town of Santa Cruz--Female Costume--Incident at a Ball--Bad Roads--Climate--Productions--Population of the Canary Islands--Imports and Exports--Various Qualities of the Wines--Fishery--Leave Santa Cruz--Crossing the Tropic of Cancer--Shaving and Ducking--General Remarks--Make St. Jago--Anchor at Porto Praya--Sickly Season--Death of the Consul and his Wife--Consul's Sister--Governor's Garden and Watering-place--Population of the Island--Produce--The Orchilla Weed, its growth, uses, and varieties--Cause of Fever--Departure for Sierra Leone

CHAP. III.

Arrival at Sierra Leone--Mr. Lewis--Black Washerwomen.--Visitors on board--Capture of Leopards--Mortality--Funeral of Mr. Lewis--Education of Native Children--Regimental Mess--Curious Trials at a Quarter Sessions--Depredations of the Kroomen--Causes of Unhealthiness--The Boollam Territory--Lieutenant George Maclean's Mission--Election of a King--Regent's Speech--Macaulay Wilson--Ceremonies of the Coronation--Character of the Boollams--Christian and Mahommedan Missionaries--Aspect of the Country--Cession of Boollam to Great Britain--Extraordinary Trial for Crim. Con.--News of the Death of Mr. Canning

CHAP. IV.

Auction at Sierra Leone--Timber Establishments in the River--Tombo, Bance and Tasso Islands--Explosion of a Vessel at Sea--Liberated Africans--Black Ostlers--Horses Imported--Slave Vessel--Colonial Steam Vessel--Road and Street Repairs--Continued Rains--Suggestion for preserving the Health of European Seamen--General Views of the Colony--Population--Parishes--Supply of Provisions--Description of Freetown--Curious Letter from Black Labourers--Original Settlers--Present Inhabitants--Trade with the Interior--Strange Customs of Native Merchants--Anecdote of Sailors--Injurious Example of the Royal African Corps--Vaccination of Natives--Medical Opinion--Departure from Sierra Leone

CHAP. V.

Cape St. Ann--Dangerous Shoals--Old Sailors--Liberia--Origin and History of the Colony--Failure at Sherbro Island--Experiment at Liberia--Difficulties Encountered by the Settlers--Differences with the Natives--Final Adjustment--Improving State of the Colony--Laws and Morals--Remarks on Colonization

CHAP. VI.

The Kroo Country--Religion of the Kroo and Fish Men--Emigration of the Natives--Sketch of their habits and customs--Purchase of Wives--The Krooman's _ne plus ultra_--Migratory propensities--Rogueries exposed--Adoption of English Names--Cape Palmas--Dexterity of the Fishmen--Fish towns--The Fetish--Arrival at Cape Coast--Land with the Governor--Captain Hutchison--Cape Coast mode of taking an airing-- Ashantee Chiefs--Diurnal occupations--School for Native Girls-- Domestication of Females--Colonel Lumley--Captain Ricketts--Neglect of Portuguese Fortresses--A native Doctor

CHAP. VII.

Recollections of the Ashantee War--Battle of Essamacow--Accession of Osay Aquatoo to the Throne--Battle of Affatoo--Investment of Cape Coast--Flight of the Ashantees--Martial Law proclaimed--Battle of Dodowah--Ashantee Mode of Fighting--Death of Captain Hutchison

CHAP. VIII.

Embarkation--Departure for Accra--Land Route--Accra Roads--Visit to Danish Accra--Dilapidations of the Fortresses at Dutch and English Accra--Captive Queen--Mr. Thomas Park--Cause of his Death unknown-- Departure for Fernando Po--First view of the Island--Anchor in Maidstone Bay--Early History of the Settlement--Capt. Owen's Expedition--Visited by the Inhabitants--Site for the Settlement determined--Author's Mission to the King of Baracouta--Visit of the King--Native Costume--Ecstacy of the Natives--Distribution of Presents--Second Visit to the King--His Majesty's evasive Conduct-- Renewed Interviews--A Native Thief--Intended Punishment--Cut-throat, a Native Chief--Visit to King-Cove--Purchase of Land

CHAP. IX.

Native Simplicity--Resources of the Blind--Royal Village--Gathering of Natives--Native Priests--Royal Feast--Inhospitable Treatment-- Uncomfortable Quarters--Vocabulary of the Native Language--Beauty of the Female Character--Women of Fernando Po--Anecdotes--Aspect of the Country--Productions--Preparations for the Settlement--Discovery of a Theft--Mimic War Customs--Native Chiefs--Female on Board--Monkey for Dinner--Flogging a Prisoner--Accident to a Sailor--A Voyage of Survey round the Island--River named after the Author--Geographical and Meteorological Observations--Insubordination--A Man Overboard--Deserter taken--Death of the Interpreter--Method of Fishing--Visitors from St. Thomas--Ceremony of taking Possession of Fernando Po--Interview with a Native Chief--Celebration Dinner--Indirect Roguery--Chief and his Wife--Hospital near Point William--The Guana--Mistake at Sea-- Suggestions on the Slave-Trade--Fishing Stakes--Schooner on a Mudflat

CHAP. X.

Slave Canoe--Duke's Pilot--Old Calabar Town--Consternation on Shore, and disappearance of the Slave Vessels--Fruitless Pursuit of the Slavers--Eyo Eyo, King Eyo's Brother--Old Calabar Festivals--Attempted Assassination, and Duke Ephraim's Dilemma--Obesity of the King's Wives--Ordeal for Regal Honours--Duke's English House--Coasting Voyage to the Bonny--Author discovers Symptoms of Fever--The Rivers of St. Nicholas, Sombrero, St. Bartholomew, and Sta. Barbara--"The Smokes"--Capture of a Spanish Slave Vessel in the River St. John--Nun, or First Brass River, discovered to be the Niger--Natural Inland Navigation--New Calabar River--Pilot's Jhu Jhu--Foche Island--Author Sleeps on Shore--Bonny Bath--Interview with King Peppel--Ceremony of opening the Trade--Rashness of a Slave Dealer--Horrible Fanaticism--Schooner at Sea--Return to Fernando Po

CHAP. XI.

Reverence for Beards--Native Shields--Petty Thefts--Tornado Season-- Author departs for Calabar--Waterspout--Palm-oil Vessels--Visit to Duke Ephraim--Escape of a Schooner with Slaves--Calabar Sunday--Funeral of the Duke's Brother--Egbo Laws--Egbo Assembly--Extraordinary Mode of recovering Debts--Superstition and Credulity--Cruelty of the Calabar People to Slaves--Royal Slave Dealer--Royal Monopoly--Manner of Trading with the Natives--Want of Missionaries--Capt. Owen's Arrival--Visit Creek Town with King Eyo--The Royal Establishment--Savage Festivities-- Calabar Cookery--Old Calabar River

CHAP. XII.

Captain Owen's Departure--Runaway Slave--Egbo again--Duke's Sunday-- Superstitious Abstinence--Anecdote of a Native Gentleman--Breaking Trade--Author's Visit to Creek Town--Bullocks embarked--Departure from Calabar--Chased by mistake--Dangerous Situation--Mortality at Fernando Po--Detection of a Deserter--Frequency of Tornados--Horatio hove down-- Capture of a Slave Vessel--Loss of Mr. Morrison--Another Slave Vessel taken--Landing a part of the Slaves--Author's Daily Routine--Garden of Eden--Monstrous Fish--Continued Mortality--Market at Longfield

CHAP. XIII.

Scarcity of Provisions in Fernando Po--Diet of the Natives--Their Timidity--Its probable Cause--The Recovery of a liberated African Deserter--Departure from Fernando Po--Reflections on the Uses of the Settlement--Causes of Failure--Insalubrity of the Climate-- Probabilities of Improvement--Arrival off the mouth of the Camaroon River--Chase of a Brigantine--Her Capture--Her suspicious Appearance-- Slave Accommodations--Pirates of the North Atlantic Ocean--Prince's Island--Visit to the Governor--Drunken Frolic of a Marine--Provisions-- Delicious Coffee--Account of the Town--Population--Varieties of Colour in the Inhabitants--West-bay--Inhospitality of the Governor and Merchants--Visit to a Brazilian Brigantine--Difficulty of obtaining a Passage to Angola--Departure of the Emprendadora--The Eden leaves Prince's Island--Crossing the Equinoctial Line--Dolphin and Flying-fish --Trade-winds--Ascension Island at Daybreak--Landing--Description of the Settlement--Turtle--Goats' Flesh--Abundant Poultry--Island Game-- Aboriginal Foes--Unfaithful Friends--Gladiatorial Sports--Privileges of Settlers--Traffic--Roads--Water--Culture of Soil--Produce-- Vegetables--Live Stock--Population--Employments--Hours of Labour-- Recreations--Departure from the Island--Recollections of Ascension on a former Voyage--Dampier, the Navigator--The Variables--An Affidavit on Crossing the Line--Change of Weather--Dutch Galliot--Passage for the Brazils--Parting of Friends

CHAP. XIV.

Dutch Galliot--An Agreeable Companion--Melancholy Account of St. Jago-- Beauty in Tears--Manner of obtaining Salt and Water at Mayo--Pleasures of a Galliot in a heavy Sea--Dutch Miscalculation--Distances--An Oblation to Neptune and Amphitrite (new style)--Melange, Devotion and _Gourmanderie_--Curious Flying-fish--Weather--Whales--Cape Pigeons-- Anchor off Rio Janeiro--Distant Scenery--Custom-house Duties--Hotel du Nord--Rua Direito--Confusion thrice confounded--Fruit Girls, not fair, but coquettish--Music unmusical, or Porterage, with an Obligato Accompaniment--Landing-place--An Evening Walk--A bad Cold--Job's Comforter--Shoals of Visitors--Captain Lyon's Visit, and Invitation to the Author--Naval Friends--Packet for England--English Tailors-- Departure for Congo Soco--The Party--Thoughts on Self-Denial-- Uncomfortable Quarters--Changes of Atmosphere--Freedom by Halves; or _left_-handed Charity--Serra Santa Anna--Valley of Botaes--The Ferreirinho, or little Blacksmith--Dangerous Ascent of the Alto de Serra--Pest, an Universal Disease--An English Settler--Rio Paraheiba-- Valencia--Curiosity of the People--Unceremonious Inquisitors--Comforts of a Beard--Castor-Oil for burning--Rio Prëta--Passports--Entrance to the Mine Country--Examination of Baggage--Attention without Politeness --The Green-eyed Monster, "An old Man would be wooing"

CHAP. XV.

Advantages of Early Travelling--Funelle--"A Traveller stopped at a Widow's Gate"--Bright Eyes and Breakfast--Smiles and Sighs--The Fish River--Cold Lodgings--Fowl Massacre--Bad Ways--Gigantic Ant-hills-- The Campos--Insect Warriors--Insinuating Visitors (Tick)--The Simpleton--Bertioga--A Drunkard--Cold Shoulders--Mud Church--Feasting and Fasting; or, the Fate of Tantalus--Method in a Slow March--Gentlemen Hungry and Angry--No "Accommodation for Man or Horse"--A Practical Bull--Curtomi--Hospitable Treatment at Grandie--Horse Dealer--A "Chance" Purchase--Bivouac--Mule Kneeling--Sagacious Animal--Quilos--A Mist-- Gold-washing--Ora Branca--Hazardous Ascent of the Serra D'Ora Branca-- Topaz District--A Colonel the Host--Capoa--Jigger-hunters--Mineralogical Specimens--Mortality of Animals--Pasturage--Account of Ora Preta--Gold Essayed--Halt--Journey resumed--Arrival at Congo Soco

TRAVELS,

ETC. ETC.

CHAP. I.

Passion for Travelling--Author's peculiar situation--Motives for going Abroad--Resources for the Blind--Embark in the Eden, Capt. Owen, for Sierra Leone--Lord High Admiral at Plymouth--Cape Finisteire--Arrival at Madeira--Town of Funchal--Wines of Madeira--Cultiwition of the Grape--Table of Exports--Seizure of Gin--Fruits and Vegetables--Climate --Coffee, Tea, and Sugar Cultivation--Palanquin Travelling--Departure from Madeira

The passion for travelling is, I believe, instinctive in some natures. We have seen men persevere in their enterprises against the most formidable obstacles; and, without means or friends, and even ignorant of the languages of the various countries through which they passed, pursue their perilous journeys into remote places, until, like the knight in the Arabian tale, they succeeded in snatching a memorial from every shrine they visited. For my own part, I have been conscious from my earliest youth of the existence of this desire to explore distant regions, to trace the varieties exhibited by mankind under the different influences of different climates, customs, and laws, and to investigate with unwearied solicitude the moral and physical distinctions that separate and diversify the various nations of the earth.

I am bound to believe that this direction of my faculties and energies has been ordained by a wise and benevolent Providence, as a source of consolation under an affliction which closes upon me all the delights and charms of the visible world. The constant occupation of the mind, and the continual excitement of mental and bodily action, contribute to diminish, if not to overcome, the sense of deprivation which must otherwise have pressed upon me; while the gratification of this passion scarcely leaves leisure for despondency, at the same time that it supplies me with inexhaustible means of enjoyment. When I entered the naval service I felt an irresistible impulse to become acquainted with as many parts of the world as my professional avocations would permit, and I was determined not to rest satisfied until I had completed the circumnavigation of the globe. But at the early age of twenty-five, while these resolves were strong, and the enthusiasm of youth was fresh and sanguine, my present affliction came upon me. It is impossible to describe the state of my mind at the prospect of losing my sight, and of being, as I then supposed, deprived by that misfortune of the power of indulging in my cherished project. Even the suspense which I suffered, during the period when my medical friends were uncertain of the issue, appeared to me a greater misery than the final knowledge of the calamity itself. At last I entreated them to be explicit, and to let me know the worst, as that could be more easily endured than the agonies of doubt. Their answer, instead of increasing my uneasiness, dispelled it. I felt a comparative relief in being no longer deceived by false hopes; and the certainty that my case was beyond remedy determined me to seek, in some pursuit adapted to my new state of existence, a congenial field of employment and consolation. At that time my health was so delicate, and my nerves so depressed by previous anxiety, that I did not suffer myself to indulge in the expectation that I should ever be able to travel out of my own country alone; but the return of strength and vigour, and the concentration of my views upon one object, gradually brought back my old passion, which at length became as firmly established as it was before. The elasticity of my original feelings being thus restored, I ventured, alone and sightless, upon my dangerous and novel course; and I cannot look back upon the scenes through which I have passed, the great variety of circumstances by which I have been surrounded, and the strange experiences with which I have become familiar, without an intense aspiration of gratitude for the bounteous dispensation of the Almighty, which enabled me to conquer the greatest of human evils by the cultivation of what has been to me the greatest of human enjoyments, and to supply the void of sight with countless objects of intellectual gratification. To those who inquire what pleasures I can derive from the invigorating spirit of travelling under the privation I suffer, I may be permitted to reply in the words of the poet,

Unknown those powers that raise the soul to flame, Catch every nerve, and vibrate through the frame; Their level life is but a smouldering fire, Unquench'd by want, unfanned by strong desire.

Or perhaps, with more propriety, I may ask, who could endure life without a purpose, without the pursuit of some object, in the attainment of which his moral energies should be called into healthful activity? I can confidently assert that the effort of travelling has been beneficial to me in every way; and I know not what might have been the consequence, if the excitement with which I looked forward to it had been disappointed, or how much my health might have suffered but for its refreshing influence.

I am constantly asked, and I may as well answer the question here once for all, what is the use of travelling to one who cannot see? I answer, Does every traveller see all that he describes?--and is not every traveller obliged to depend upon others for a great proportion of the information he collects? Even Humboldt himself was not exempt from this necessity.

The picturesque in nature, it is true, is shut out from me, and works of art are to me mere outlines of beauty, accessible only to one sense; but perhaps this very circumstance affords a stronger zest to curiosity, which is thus impelled to a more close and searching examination of details than would be considered necessary to a traveller who might satisfy himself by the superficial view, and rest content with the first impressions conveyed through the eye. Deprived of that organ of information, I am compelled to adopt a more rigid and less suspicious course of inquiry, and to investigate analytically, by a train of patient examination, suggestions, and deductions, which other travellers dismiss at first sight; so that, freed from the hazard of being misled by appearances, I am the less likely to adopt hasty and erroneous conclusions. I believe that, notwithstanding my want of vision, I do not fail to visit as many interesting points in the course of my travels as the majority of my contemporaries: and by having things described to me _on the spot_, I think it is possible for me to form as correct a judgment as my own sight would enable me to do: and to confirm my accuracy, I could bring many living witnesses to bear testimony to my endless inquiries, and insatiable thirst for collecting information. Indeed this is the secret of the delight I derive from travelling, affording me as it does a constant source of mental occupation, and stimulating me so powerfully to physical exertion, that I can bear a greater degree of bodily fatigue, than any one could suppose my frame to be capable of supporting.

I am frequently asked how I take my notes. It is simply thus: I keep a sort of rough diary, which I fill up from time to time as opportunities offer, but not from day to day, for I am frequently many days in arrear, sometimes, indeed, a fortnight together: but I always vividly remember the daily occurrences which I wish to retain, so that it is not possible that any circumstances can escape my attention. I also collect distinct notes on various subjects, as well as particular descriptions of interesting objects, and when I cannot meet with a friend to act as my amanuensis, I have still a resource in my own writing apparatus, of which, however, I but seldom avail myself, as the process is much more tedious to me than that of dictation. But these are merely rough notes of the heads of subjects, which I reserve to expatiate upon at leisure on my return to old England.

The invention of the apparatus to which I allude is invaluable to those who are afflicted with blindness. It opens not only an agreeable source of amusement and occupation in the hours of loneliness and retirement, but it affords a means of communicating our secret thoughts to a friend, without the interposition of a third party; so that the intercourse and confidence of private correspondence, excluded by a natural calamity, are thus preserved to us by an artificial substitute. By the aid of this process, too, we may desire our correspondent to reply to our inquiries in a way which would be quite unintelligible to those to whom the perusal of the answer might be submitted. This apparatus, which is called the "Nocto via Polygraph," by Mr. Wedgwood, the inventor, is not only useful to the blind, but is equally capable of being rendered available to all persons suffering under diseases of the eyes; for, although it does not assist you to commit your thoughts to paper with the same facility that is attained by the use of pen and ink, it enables you to write very clearly and legibly, while you have the satisfaction of knowing that you are spared all risk of hurting your sight. It is but an act of justice to refer such of my readers as may feel any curiosity on this subject, to Mr. Wedgwood, for full particulars respecting his various inventions for the use of the blind.

Having given these personal explanations--rendered necessary by the peculiarity of my situation, and the very general curiosity which appears to exist on the subject, if I may judge by the frequency of the interrogatories that are put to me--will now conclude my preliminary observations,

Nor will I thee detain With poet's fictions, nor oppress thine ear With circumstance, and long exordiums here;