Part 14
Yet in _Peru_ there are _corregidors_ or magistrates in districts from _Lima_ who find ways and means to oppress the poor _Indians_, notwithstanding they are perjured if they trade with them. These natives live chiefly by husbandry and working the mines; and the _Spanish_ court have found it necessary to forbid the _corregidors_ trading with them, in order to secure them a quiet possession of the fruit of their labour. To evade this oath, another person under-hand procures a parcel of _European_ goods and disperses them among the _Indians_, who, tho’ they want none of them, must buy them at 3 or 400 _per cent._ more than prime cost; a time being positively fixt for the money.
These hardships are past retrieving, because every magistrate knows his reign to be but short, and if he don’t make a fortune he is laught at: So that they wink at one another; and the great distance between _Peru_ and _Spain_ is a reason the king’s orders are seldom regarded, being two years going backward and forward: whence arise many clandestine doings. For according to law, the king should have a twentieth part of all gold, and a fifth part of all silver; but there are vast quantities that never pay duty carryd privately over the continent the north way, as well as the south way by trading ships. And tho’ there are prodigious sums allowd for militia, garisons, and repairs of fortifications: yet it is not one half applyd. From all which it is easy to imagine what immense revenues would come to the treasury at _Madrid_, if his _Catholic_ majesty was but faithfully served.
The country in _Peru_ is naturally subject to earthquakes: and I have heard that the _English_ plantations in the north of _America_ have felt them. At _Lima_ they had two great ones about fifty years ago, which overturnd houses, churches and convents: and in the reign of _Charles_ the late king of _Spain_, there was an earthquake near the equinoctial line that lifted up whole fields, and carryd them several miles off. Small shocks are often felt without doing any harm; and I have been two or three times calld out of bed when such a thing has happend, tho’ we have heard no more of it: but upon these occasions the bells always toll to prayers.
Notwithstanding this country, especially nigh the coast, has sufferd much by earthquakes; yet their churches are lofty enough, and neatly built. That part of their architecture which requires most strength is generally finisht with burnt bricks; but their houses are all built with _bambo_ canes and bricks dryd only by the weather, which are durable enough because it never rains. The covering is a matting with ashes upon it to keep out the dews, which is all the wet they have.
The small river of _Lima_ is mostly snow water descending from the neighbouring mountains, which are coverd all the year with snow; but partly dissolved in the summer season, which is from _September_ to _March_. One would expect it much hotter thereabouts than it is, there being no proportion between the heat of this climate in _America_ and the same degree of latitude in _Africa_; for which there are two reasons: one is the cool temper of the air proceding from the congealed snow on the mountains, which diffuses it self every way: the other is, the humidity of the vapours which hang over the plains, and which are so frequent, that when I came first to _Lima_, I often expected it would rain. These vapours are not so coarse, low and humble as our fogs, nor separated above like our summer clouds; but an exhalation between both, being spread all round, as when we say the day is overcast. So that sometimes a fine dew is felt upon the outward garments and discernd by the eye upon the nap of the cloth. This is a happy convenience at _Lima_, the people being thus screend one half of the day from the sun; and tho’ the afternoon be sunshine, ’tis very tolerable being mixt with the sea breezes, and not near so hot as at _Lisbon_, and some parts of _Spain_ in _Europe_ which are thirty degrees further from the equator.
The want of rain in this part of the continent obliged the poor, I should say happy _Indians_, before the conquest, to make dreins and canals for bringing down water from among the distant mountains; which they have done with such great labour and skill that the vallies are kindly refresht, producing grass, corn, and variety of fruits: to which the aforesaid dews may also a little contribute.
_Zarate_ the _Spanish_ historian has given us the natural cause of this perpetual drought. He observes that the south-west winds blow upon the _Peruvian_ coast all the year round; and the ocean is therefore calld _pacific_, because the winds never disturb the waters. These easy gales always bear away the vapours from the plains before they can rise and form a body sufficient to descend in a shower: but when they are carryd farther and higher, they grow more compact and at length fall by their own weight into rain.
This is so fair and rational an account, that I wonder _Monsieur Frezier_ has affected to contradict it. ’Tis convincing to a stranger; and to most gentlemen there who are curious enough to think about it. Any one who reads _Frezier_’s voyage may see he has not only mistaken the _Spaniard_, but given us long conjectures of his own, very confused and improbable.
They have plenty of cattle, fowl and fish; and all provision common to us except butter; instead of which they always use lard. They have oyl, wine and brandy enough, tho’ not so good as in _Europe_. They drink much of the jesuits herb _camini_ brought from _Paraguay_ by land; for all _East-India_ tea is forbid. They make a decoction of it, and suck it through a pipe or quill. It is generally here calld _mattea_, being the name of the bowl out of which they drink it. Chocolate is their usual breakfast and a grace-cup after dinner: Sometimes they drink a glass of brandy for digestion, but scarce any wine at all. In the kingdom of _Chili_ they make a little butter, such as it is; and their way of doing it is remarkable. The cream is put into a sheepskin stript off whole, and kept on purpose: after tying the ends fast, two women lay it on a table, and shake it and sowse it between them ’till it comes.
Tho’ the _Spaniards_ are no friends to the bottle, yet gallantry and intrigue are here brought to perfection, for they devote so much of their time to the service of the fair sex, that _Venus_ seems here to keep her court. It is unmannerly not to have a mistress, and scandalous not to keep her well. As for the women they have many accomplishments both natural and acquired; their conversation is free and sprightly, their motion graceful, their looks winning, and their words ingaging: they have all a delicate shape, not injured with stiff bodyd stays, but left to the beauty of nature; so that there’s no such thing as a crooked body among them. Their eyes and teeth are particularly excellent, and their hair being generally of a dark polisht hue is finely combd, and platted or tyd behind with ribands, but never disguised with powder: for the brightness of their skin round the temples appears very well shaded thro’ the hair like light thro’ a landskip.
Tho’ these amours are universal at _Lima_, yet the men are careful enough to hide them; for no indecent word or action is allowd in public. They have two usual times for these entertainments: one is at the _siesta_ or afternoons nap, which is commonly with the mistress; the other is in the evening cross the water in calashes, or at the great square in the town where the calashes meet in great numbers towards the dusk: these are slung like our coaches, but smaller; and many of them fit only for two sitting opposite. They are always drawn by one mule with the _nigro_ driver upon his back: and it is usual among these calashes to observe several of them with the windows close up, standing still for half an hour together.
In these pastimes they have several customs peculiar to themselves. After evening prayers the gentleman changes his dress, from a cloak into a _montero_ or jocky coat, with a linen laced cap and a hankerchief about his neck instead of a wig. If he wears his hair it must be tuckt under a cap, and that flapt all down: so that it is a universal fashion to be disguised some way or other; for those who have no mistress are ashamed to be thought strictly virtuous, and must be in some mask or other to countenance the way of the world. But as all this is night work, they have an establisht rule to prevent quarels, which is never to speak or take notice of one another; whether they are going in quest of amorous game, or visiting their ladies: so that in short the forepart of the night is a masquerade all the year round.
Among that rank of people who don’t keep calashes there are several points to be observed. Particularly when they take the evening air, one couple never walks close upon the heels of another; but to prevent the publishing any secret whispers, each couple walks at the distance of twelve yards at least: and if any lady drops a fan or any thing by accident, a gentleman may civilly take it up; but he must not give it to the lady, but the gentleman who is with her; for she may be the sister or wife of him that takes it up: and as the women are all veild, these wise laws are instituted to prevent any impertinent discoveries. A freedom of that kind is lookt upon as the highest affront in all gallantry, and merits a drawn sword thro’ the liver. They are so careful in these rules, that if a man sees his intimate friend any where with a girl, he must in no wise take notice of him, or speak of it afterwards:
These things are all done with the greatest gravity imaginable; and thus the practice of love becomes decent, safe and easy: so that a man may possess his mistress without any visible inconvenience, and spend all the money he has in the world without fear of brawls, duels, or a roundhouse: not like the rude hectoring blades and prentices of a certain _northern_ metropolis who are continually affronting the female sex, with shocking words or scandalous actions.
Altho’ the commerce of love is here so regularly settled, yet there are some jealousies now and then subsisting, which sometimes have ended fatally. There was a story of this sort pretty fresh when I was at _Lima_. A young lady had for some time, as she thought, been sovereign mistress of her lover’s heart; but by cruel chance she found him in company with another woman, and perhaps a handsome one. As _Shakespear_ says, _Trifles light as air are to the jealous confirmations strong_: so she waited for no further proof of his infidelity, nor any excuse for the wrong done her; but suddenly drew his dagger and dispatchd him. She was soon confined and brought to tryal: and when every one expected she would be cast for her life, her judges gave it this turn, that it was not malice fore-thought, but excess of love that prompted her to the rash deed. Whereupon she was acquitted: but the nice casuists thought she should in honour have hangd her self. This instance shews how sacred a thing love is there judged to be, tho’ in a state of concubinage only. And the moral good or evil of some actions are hard to be determined, while different governments have different customs.
How agreeable soever these practices are to the _Creole Spaniards_, yet they cause a great inconvenience to society: for the men are so seriously taken up with their delicacies, that the women ingross most of their time, and spoil all public conversation. For this reason there are no taverns or coffee-houses, so that the men are only to be met with at their offices or at church. They have a sort of playhouse where the young gentlemen and students divert themselves after their fashion: for what performances they have in the dramatical way are so mean, that they are hardly worth mentioning, being scripture stories interwoven with romance and obscenity.
It was at this theatre that two _English_ sailors of _monsieur Martinet_’s squadron fought a prize a little before I came to _Lima_. They first obtaind leave of the viceroy to exercise at the usual weapons; and after the shew-day was fixt, most of the preceding time was taken up with preparatory ceremonies to bring a good house. They each traversed the town by beat of drum in their holland shirts and ribands, saluting the spectators at their windows with a learned flourish of the sword; so that by the extraordinary novelty and manner of the thing, the whole city came to see the tryal of skill: some gave gold, but few less than a dollar. When the company male and female was close packt up together, the masters mounted the stage: and after the usual compliment peculiar to the _English_ nation of shaking hands before they quarel, they retired in great order and stood upon their guard. Several bouts were playd without much wrath or damage: but the design of this meeting being more to get money than cuts or credit, one of the masters had the seasonable fortune to receive a small harm on the breast, which having blooded his shirt began to make the combat look terrible: whereupon the company fearing from such a dreadful beginning that the zele of the champions might wax too intemperate; and till they were reconciled, no man in the house was safe, unanimously cryd out _basta, basta_, which signifys enough, enough; and so the house broke up. The sailors finding this a better prize than any they ever made at sea, humbly besought his excellency for another trial of skill: but the viceroy and people were all against it, from a religious objection which could never be got over; and that was, lest the fellows should kill one another, die without absolution and be damnd.
While I was at _Lima_, I grew acquainted with one _monsieur Thaylet_, a gentleman whose effects were seised by _Martinet_’s squadron, as an interloper from St. _Malo_: after which he remaind in _Peru_, where he was imployd by the government, he having been formerly commander of several good ships. The first service he had, was to fetch the bottle with instructions for _Shelvocke_, buryd by _Clipperton_ at _Fernandes_, p. 97 of this book. On his return with the said instructions and the two men who deserted there, the viceroy willing to incourage him, thought of another short expedition for him in the same vessel; being an _English_ ketch of about sixty ton, and had served captain _Martinet_ as a tender. The viceroy having lately had certain notice by a _Spanish_ ship, that they accidentally made an island in the _South-Seas_ till then unknown to them, tho’ markt in several drafts by the name of _Solomon_’s island; it made his excellency curious to persue the discovery. He thereupon orderd the ketch to be fitted out for two months under _Thaylet_’s command; who accordingly saild into ten degrees south, in which latitude the island was said to lye. He cruised thereabout till his provision was nigh expended; and returnd without success. However as the same account came by two different ships who touchd there, the _Spaniards_ verily believe there is such a place; for the men reported, that the natives, as to their persons and behaviour, were much like the _Indians_ on the continent; that they had many gold and silver things among them, but that their language was new and unintelligible. The reason why Mr. _Thaylet_ could not meet with _Solomon_’s island, might be from the uncertainty of the latitude, and his inability of making further search, being provided for only two months: for I have been informd in _London_ that the said island or islands lye more southerly in the _Pacific_ ocean than where they are laid down in the _Dutch_ maps. And the two _Spaniards_ who had been there, were only small trading vessels carryd thither by irregular currents; and could give no certain account of the latitude, because they kept no reckoning.
To sum up this chapter, I shall only observe that the _Spanish Peruvians_ are better seated for the happiness of this world, than any people I know. If they are indolent, their great affluence makes them so. If they are delicate, the kind serenity of the climate contributes greatly to it. Much husbandry and labor is needless, where the whole year is a fruitful spring. Indeed the _Nigros_ and _Indians_ do all the work; for a white face is exemption enough from all labor and care. In our unequal gloomy regions, many customs would be condemnd, which are there the pure effect of nature: for the night and day make a happy medium between cold and heat. Therefore, if the general bent of human nature be for constant happiness and freedom from pain, the man of pleasure must go to _Peru_, and make _Lima_ his temporal paradise.
CHAP. III.
_Of the mines of_ Chili _and_ Peru; _and the method of working out the_ gold _and_ silver _from the mass._
_Chili_ being the southermost division of the continent of _America_, is therefore cooler than _Peru_; and perhaps would sute an _English_ constitution better. It is divided from _Peru_ at the tropic of _Capricorn_; and is remarkable for that vast chain of mountains known by the name of _Cordileer_, which coast along from _Magellan_ streights up to the _istmus_ of _Darien_, being about 4000 mile. It is governd by a lieutenant general, stiled _president_ of _Chili_, because he is at the head of all civil affairs as well as military: nevertheless he receives orders from the viceroy of _Peru_. The capital city is St. _Jago_; it was founded in 1541, and is a copy of _Lima_.
I shall here entertain the reader chiefly with an extract from _Frezier_’s voyage relating to the mines, and the manner of separating the mineral from the earth. He undertook the _South-Sea_ voyage by permission of king _Lewis_ the XIV^{th}, and was there about six years before us, on purpose to make such discoveries, plans and observations as he thought fit. His account, as it is good and intirely new, will without doubt be agreeable to the curious reader:
In _Chili_, the mines which at present yield most gold, are about the towns of _Conception_ and _Copiapo_; and the villages of _Tiltil_ and _Lampanqui_ near _Valparaiso_; tho’ the whole mountains are more or less impregnated with it. The silver mines of _Peru_ are at _Lipes_, _Guaico_, _Iquic_ and St. _Anthony_: gold ones being very scarce in that part of the continent. _Potosi_ has originally afforded such surprising quantities of silver, that it has been proverbial for its treasure: the town stands at the bottom of the famous mountain where the mines lye, and is very populous. The country is obliged by the king’s order to send a great number of _Indians_ yearly to work in those mines; for all white faces are excused from servitude, and the _Nigros_ are not able to work in them because the cold will kill them: but they are imployd in all other business on the surface; so that the native _Indians_ are only destined to this labour.
The _Corregidors_ or magistrates who overlook those _Indians_ appointed to work in the mines, summon them to set out all together on a certain day. They generally take their wives and children with them, who, with tears in their eyes, leave their native homes, and travel unwillingly on to the house of bondage. Many indeed forget their habitation, and after the years end settle at _Potosi_, which is the chief reason that town is so populous, and almost equals the city of _Lima_ as to its number of inhabitants.
Tho’ the mines here are far diminisht in their produce, yet the quantity of ore that has been already wrought, and lain many years upon the surface, is thought capable to yield a second crop; and when I was at _Lima_, they were actually turning it up, and new milling it with great success: which is a proof that these minerals generate in the earth like all other inanimate things. And it is likewise certain from all accounts of the _Spaniards_, that gold and silver, as well as other metals, are continually growing and forming themselves in the earth. This opinion is verifyd by experience in the mountain of _Potosi_, where several mines have fallen in and buryd the workmen with their tools. After some years they have dug the same place, and discoverd many bones and pieces of wood with veins of silver actually running through them.
These mines belong to him who first discovers them. He immediately presents a petition to the magistrates to have such a piece of earth for his own; which is no sooner done than granted. They measure eighty _Spanish_ yards in length and forty over, which is about two hundred foot in length and one hundred in breadth, and yield it to the discoverer; who chuses what space he thinks fit, and does what he pleases with it. Then they measure just the same quantity for the king, which is sold to the best bidders; there being many who are willing to purchase a treasure which may prove inestimable. If any other person has a mind to work part of the mine himself, he bargains with the proprietor for a particular vein. All that such a one digs out is his own, paying the king’s duty, which is for gold a 20th part, and for silver a 5th: And some landlords are so well satisfyd with letting out their ground and their mills, that they live upon the profit.
The mill for grinding and separating the gold from the ore is made after the manner of our cyder mills. There is first a round stone cistern about ten foot diameter, with a deep orbicular chanel at the bottom. This stone cistern is bored in the middle to let thro’ the long axil-tree of a horizontal wheel placed under it, and wider than the cistern: the wheel is set round with half pitchers, that it may turn as the water falls upon them. This wheel turning the axil, causes a milstone to roll along edgeways by another spindle in the chanel of the cistern above, which grinds the hard ore put in it.
When the stuff is a little broken, they put quick-silver to it, which immediately clings to the gold, and leaves the dross: then they let fall a stream of water, the force of which dissolves the earth, and drives it out at a notch made for that purpose. The gold with the mercury lyes at the bottom by its own weight; which, after they have done work, they gather up and put into a linen bag to squeese out the quick silver as well as they can: then they lay it to the fire, that the remainder may evaporate. This is what they call _pinna_ gold, being clung together like a pine apple; and when this is once melted, it needs no more refining: so that a gold miner has a great advantage of a silver one; for the mercury, adhering so naturally to the gold, leaves all the dross immediately, and the workman knows every day what he gets: whereas the silver miner can’t know till a month or two after.
The silver ore is ground as the gold aforementiond, or sometimes broke with iron pounders of 200 weight to fall by a machine. But milling being the usual way, they grind the ore with water, which makes first a thin mud that runs out of the cistern into a receiver: whenas ’tis dry pounded, it must be steept in water and moulded with the feet, which occasions much more trouble.