Part 13
As the Admiral came up he fired a gun to leeward: hereupon we lowerd our topsails, making easy sail till we got along side of him. Their first question was, if we had heard any thing of the _English_ privatier? we answerd, No. The next was, how it happend we were got no farther in our way to _Lima_? We answerd, by reason of the _currents_. They askd us two or three more questions, which we still answerd in _Spanish_. They seemd thoroughly satisfyd; and were just getting their tacks aboard in order to leave us, when the said _Sprake_ and two more of our men appeard on the main deck: a _Frenchman_ aboard the admiral looking out at the mast-head spyd their long trowsers, by which knowing them to be _English_ he cryd out, _par Dieu Monsieur, ils sont Anglois_, they are _Englishmen_. Upon this they immediately fired a broad side into us with round and partridge shot; by one of which _Hatley_ was slightly wounded in the head.
After we had surrenderd they took all the _English_ aboard them, and put a couple of their own officers into the prize. The admiral then bore down to the _Mercury_ about two leagues to leeward, and tho’ they fired at least twenty five guns into her, the three men escaped unhurt; and the vessel tho’ full of water had not weight enough to carry her to the bottom. After taking in the three men, our commander _Don Pedro Midranda_ went in to _Payta_ carrying the pink with him, where he set us ashore. He orderd me to _Piura_ about forty mile up the country; and did me the favour to let _Pressick_ the surgeon and _Cobs_ a marine serjeant go with me: but captain _Hatley_ and the rest he sent under a guard, with mules to carry them to _Lima_, which is above four hundred miles further on the coast; the reason of which I have partly given at the close of my second section: for the cape _Frio_ story being blown, and the moydors found upon _Hatley_, they had a mind the thing should be sifted and the guilty punishd. The admiral having taken in water and refreshments, quickly put to sea again in quest of the _British_ privatiers, designing to take us up to _Lima_ as he came back.
The weather in this latitude being too hot, the custom is to travel from six in the evening till eight in the morning. My _Indian_ guide set me on the best mule he had, which not caring to follow company, I led my fellow travellers the way till ten a clock. While day-light lasted, I observed the country one open plain, with _Indian_ plantations regularly enough cantond out on each side of us. This level is from 30 to 100 mile broad, and extends 300 mile along shore; for I am now going to the southward, having the _Cordileer_ mountains on the left hand, and the great ocean on the right. If this land was well waterd, as the soil is pleasant and fertile, it might be as fine a country as any: but travellers are here obliged to carry water for their mules as well as themselves. At the approach of night we were puzzled in the way: I often found my self stopt by great hills of sand, and my mule as often indeavourd to pull the reins out of my hand, which proving troublesome, the _Indian_ advised me to throw the reins on the mule’s neck; and as soon as that was done the creature easily hit the way. These sands are often shifted by from place to place, which I take to be occasiond by the strong eddies of wind reverberated from the mountains. At night we rested a little at an old empty house in a coppice about half way, which the guide told us was built by the inhabitants of _Piura_, for the accommodation of the prince St. _Bueno_ viceroy of _Peru_, where they met him in formality and regaled him.
At seven in the morning we arrived at _Piura_, being a regular handsom town scituate on the banks of the river _Collan_. The _Indian_ conducted us to the house of a good _Spanish_ gentleman and his wife who having received his charge, the guide returnd to _Payta_. In a quarter of an, hour’s time the towns people flockd in to see the rary show; and instead of being used like prisoners at discretion, we were entertaind with respect and civility, which we were not sure to meet with. Our landlord, I should say keeper’s name was _Don Jeronimo Baldivieso_. He had five daughters, upon the sight of which and their candid way of receiving us, we hoped our time would slide easily away, and our captivity prove agreeable. I began now to be sensible of the admiral’s favour in ordering us to this place; for he had such interest in all the kingdom of _Peru_, that for his sake we found good genteel treatment. Soon as we had refreshd ourselves, according to the custom of the place, with chocolate, biskets and water; we were diverted with the sound of a _Welch_ harp in some inner apartment: the artist had good command of it; for I heard parts of several famous _Italian_, as well as _English_ compositions; and upon inquiry, was informd that all the _Spaniards_ daughters had learnd music, and sung or playd upon some instrument or other. Tho’ at first this seemd a little unaccountable to us, yet I afterwards found that music was common in _Peru_: for the _Italian_ party having a few years before prevaild at the court of _Madrid_, the said viceroy prince St. _Bueno_, who was an _Italian_, had brought a great many musicians of that country along with him; which has now, spread music every where, and is as good in _Peru_ as in old _Spain_.
This I thought proper to mention, because by means of music and an inoffensive carriage, we lived in good harmony with those who had a right to treat us as enemies.
It was a practice here every day for the neighbours to come and view us; at which I was well enough diverted: for _Cobs_ being my serjeant, we had exercised the brown musket together; so that we turnd readily about to shew our selves: but Mr. Pressick hung down his head, and grew melancholy.
_Payta_ being the place, as I said afore, where the pedlars or walking merchants are set ashore, they make _Piura_ their first stage to _Lima_, disposing of their goods and lessening their burthens as they go along: some take the road through _Caxamarca_; others through _Truxillo_ along shore. From _Lima_ they take their passage back to _Panama_ by sea; and perhaps carry a little purchase of brandy with them. At _Panama_ they again stock themselves with _European_ goods, returning by sea to _Payta_, where they are set down: there they hire mules and load them; the _Indians_ going with them, in order to bring them back: and so these traders keep in a continual round till they have got enough to live on. Their traveling expenses are next to nothing; for the _Indians_ are brought under such subjection, that they find lodging for them, and provender for their mules. This every white face may command, being a homage the poor _Indians_ are long accustomd to pay; and some think they have an honour done them into the bargain, except out of generosity they now and then meet with a small recompense. In the _British_ and _French_ nation a pedlar is despised, and his imployment lookd upon as a mean shift to get a living: but it is otherwise here, where the quick return of money is a sufficient excuse for the manner of getting it. And there are many gentlemen in _Old Spain_, who, when their circumstances in life are declining, send their sons to the _Indies_ to retrieve their fortune this very way.
Our lodging was in an outhouse purposely kept for these traveling merchants. According to the _Spanish_ custom, we had our dinner sent to table under cover, where _Don Jeronimo_ and we eat together; while the good lady of the house and her daughters sat together in another room: this is the practice at all meals, and if any strong liquors are drank, it is then. In all our conduct I think the good _Spaniard_ was never disobliged, except once when he saw me drinking a dram with the doctor at a little victualing house. As nothing is more disagreeable to the _Spaniards_ than drunkenness, I had much ado to make amends for this step towards it, tho’ they easily admit of gallantry in the most familiar degree: so that ’tis only changing one enormity for another. Here are several churches endowd; one convent of _Franciscans_, and a seminary for youth instructed by two _Jesuits_.
After we had past about six weeks at _Piura_, our _Indian_ guide came again to wait on us to _Payta_, the man of war being returnd. When we were upon the point of taking leave, our surgeon was missing, which retarded us a day longer: they had conceald him in the town, and designd to keep him there, being a very useful man: and if he could have had a supply of medicines, he might soon have made a handsom fortune. However the next day we mounted our mules and parted with great reluctance, especially with _Don Jeronimo_ and his family.
We went aboard the _Brilliant_ at _Payta_, which having done nothing at sea, made a sort of cruising voyage to _Callao_, the port of _Lima_. The civility I received from the admiral or general of the _South-Seas_, as he is there calld, is what I have touchd upon at the end of my first section, both before we were set ashore at _Payta_, and in our passage from thence to _Callao_. I shall only add one particular to the honour of _Monsieur de Grange_, a captain under the general. Soon as we were taken by the _Brilliant_, as aforesaid, this gentleman seeing the soldiers had stript us, being the conquerers usual perquisit in all these cases; he generously gave me a handsom sute of clothes, two pair of silk stockins, a hat, wig, shirts, and every thing according. We arrived at _Lima_ in about five weeks, and were immediately committed to the same prison where the rest of our companions were sent, except _Hatley_, who, having a particular mark set on him, was confined by himself. And I can’t help remarking, tho’ Mr. _Hatley_ was no friend to me, that it was a cruel thing in _Shelvocke_ to send him of all men upon that enterprize in the _Mercury_. For when captain _Rogers_ came into these seas upon a like cruise 1709, _Hatley_ upon some occasion was separated from him, and made a prisoner afterwards upon the continent: and now being catchd the second time, with the aggravation of the _Portuguese_ money found upon him, he had like to have been torn to pieces.
The court of judges went soon upon the examination of our story, and drew up a charge against us as pyrates: since by the moidors found upon _Hatley_, it appeard they were taken from the subjects of a prince in perfect amity with the crown of _England_: but it was happy for us that the viceroy _Don Diego Marsilia_, who was an archbishop and in the decline of life, was pleased coolly to discriminate the affair, and finding really but one of us guilty, would not sign any order for shedding innocent blood. As for _Hatley_, some were for sending him to the mines for life; others for hanging him: but the several accounts of capt. _Shelvocke_’s vile procedings contributed to his deliverance, the truth of which here were enough of our people at _Lima_ to witness. For besides lieutenant _Serjeantson_ and his men who were brought hither, here came the men whom _Shelvocke_ sent with _Hopkins_ to shift for themselves in a poor empty bark, who for want of sustenance were forced to surrender to the _Indians_: so that the court finding _Shelvocke_ more a principal in the pyratical story than _Hatley_, and believing we had been plagued enough before we came hither, they thought fit to let us all go by degrees. _Hatley_ indeed was kept in irons about a twelvemonth, and then got to _England_.
I was released out of prison in about ten days, by the interest of captain _Fitzgerald_ a native of St. _Malo_, who was in favour with the viceroy, and past his word for my limitation at _Lima_. Upon inquiry for Mr. _Serjeantson_ and his men, I understood that most of them had taken up the religion of the country, had been christend, and were dispersed among the convents in the city. The first that I saw had got his new catechise in one hand, and a pair of large beads dangling in the other. I smiled, and askd the fellow how he liked it: he said very well; for having his religion to chuse, he thought this better than none, since it brought him good meat and drink, and a quiet life. Many of _Shelvocke_’s men followd this example; and I may venture to say this was as good a reason as most of our people could give for their conformity. Tho’ ’tis reckond very meritorious to make a convert, and many arguments were used for that end; yet was there no rigour shewn to bring any of us over. Those who thought fit to be baptized, had generally some of the merchants of _Lima_ for their _padrinos_ or god-fathers, who never faild giving their children a sute of clothes, and some money to drink their healths.
About this time four or five of _Clipperton_’s men, and as many of _Shelvocke_’s got leave from their convents to meet together at a public house kept by one _John Bell_, an _Englishman_, who had a _Nigro_ wife that for some services or other had got her freedom. The design of this meeting was to confirm their new baptism with a bowl of punch: the consequence of which was, they all got drunk and quareld; and forgeting they were true catholics, mistook an image of some good saint that stood in a corner for one of their own company, knockd him down, and demolishd him. I missing the fellows for a few days, inquired at _John_’s house what was become of them. He told me the story, and said they were all put in the _Inquisition_; for the thing having took air, he was obliged to complain of it, or go there himself: but promised that underhand he would indeavour to get them released; which I found afterwards was done in five days: so that they had time enough to say their catechise, repent and be sober. _Bell_ said, if the men had still remaind heretics, this drunken-bout had not come within the verge of the ecclesiastical power; but being novices, and just let into the church, they were the easier pardond; since their outrage upon the saint was no proof of their relapse into error, or an affront to the catholic faith, because they were all disorderd with liquor.
At length about a dozen men of both our ships, being now pretty well instructed, were discharged from the cloysters, and sent to _Callao_ to help careen and fit out the _Flying Fish_, then designd for _Europe_. Here they enterd into a project to run away with the _Margarita_, a pretty sailing ship that lay in the harbour, and go upon the account for themselves: but not knowing what to do for ammunition and a compass, they applyd to Mr. _Serjeantson_, telling him they had a design to steal away by land to _Panama_, where being an _English_ factory, they might have a chance to get home; that they had got half a dozen firelocks with which they could kill wild hogs or get some game as they went along, if he would be so kind to help them to a little powder and shot, and a compass to steer their way through the woods: the fellows, by begging and making catholic signs to the good people at _Lima_, that they were poor _English_ newly baptized, had got together some dollars which they desired _Serjeantson_ to lay out; who not mistrusting the plot, took their money and bought them what they wanted. Thus furnisht one of them came to me at _Lima_, and said there was an opportunity offered to make my fortune, by running away with the _Margarita_ at _Callao_, if I would imbrace it: whereupon he told me the story, and that _Sprake_ was to have the command, as being the only artist among them. I answerd that it was a bold design; but as captain _Fitzgerald_ had ingaged for my honour, I was obliged not to meddle with it. In a few days the plot was discoverd, their lodgings were searchd, their arms taken away and they put in prison. The government was greatly provoked, and had near determined their execution, when an order came to release all but _Sprake_; who being the projector was kept in irons two or three months and then set free. I believe, in this affair their late conformity did them great service: but both these stories are an argument, that neither the _church_ nor _state_ are so rigorous in _Peru_, as the _Romish_ dominions in _Europe_.
CHAP. II.
_Describing the City of_ Lima.
_Lima_ is the metropolis of _Peru_ and the seat of an archbishop. ’Tis a regular built city, the streets all strait and spacious: so that you go thro’ it almost any way without turning a corner. It is composed of little squares like _St. Jago_ the capital of _Chili_, which is copyd from this. It stands in an open vale, having only a gentle stream to water it; and which divides it as the _Thames_ dos _London_ from _Southwark_, allowing for the great disproportion. The port of _Lima_ is at _Callao_ seven mile below it. The houses are only one story high, of twelve or fourteen foot, because of the frequent earthquakes in that country. There are about eight parishes, three colleges for students, twenty eight monasteries of fryers, and thirteen monasteries of nuns: so that the religious take up a fourth part of the city. However by the easy flow of money, and the vast sums bequeathd, being the effects of celibacy, they are all well endowd and supported. Besides which, there are two hospitals for the sick, poor and disabled; and where several of our men were kindly lookt after. The length of the city from north to south is two mile: the breadth one and a half; the wall with the river making a circumference of six mile. On the east side of the stream lies the other part of the city; being joynd by a very handsom stone bridge of five or seven arches.
I compute there are now sixty or seventy thousand persons in _Lima_, all sorts and colours included: and I don’t wonder at any multiplication in a city which is the centre of so much affluence and pleasure. For besides the natural increase of the inhabitants, all ships which trade that way, whether private or public, generally leave some deserters who chuse to stay behind for the incouragement all white faces meet with.
The Inhabitants are thus distinguisht.
_Spaniards_ Natives of _old Spain_. _Creolians_ Born in _America_ of _white_ parents. _Mulattas_ Issue of _white_ and _nigro_. _Mestizos_ Issue of _white_ and _indian_. _Quartron nigros_ Born of _white_ and _mulatta_. _Quartron indians_ Born of _white_ and _mestizo_. _Sambo de mulatta_ _Nigro_ and _mulatta_. _Sambo de indian_ _Nigro_ and _indian_.
Issue of _sambo mulatta_, and _sambo indian_ are calld _giveros_. These are lookt on as having the worst inclinations and principles; and if the cast is known, they are banisht the kingdom.
* * * * *
Hence procede endless denominations according to the variety of mixture: and some people make a science of it, to know the multiplicity of casts and give them a name: but the forementiond are the chief and most particular. It is counted creditable to mend the breed by ascending or growing whiter; but a descent or cast the other way is calld _saltatras_; from _saltare retrò_, to go backward; and is lookd upon as base born and scandalous.
The difference of birth and parentage causes an observation pleasant enough: for they are as great strangers to each other as _chevaliers_ are in _France_, or graduates and scholars in our universities. So that a _quartron indian_ will hardly keep company with a _mulatta_: and a _mestizo_ thinks himself a king to a _sambo_.
Of all parts of the world, the people here are most expensive in their habit. The men dress as they do in _England_, their coats being either of silk, or fine _English_ cloth, and hair camblets imbroiderd or laced with gold and silver, and their waistcoats commonly the best brocades. The women never wear hoops or stays, only a sticht holland jacket next their shifts: they generally throw over their shoulders a square piece of swanskin flannel intirely coverd with _Flanders_ lace, besides the silver or gold lace round the peticoat: when they walk out, the _Creolian_ women are veild, but not the _Mulatta_; and till the age of thirty or forty they wear no headcloths: their hair being tyed behind with fine ribands. But the pride of both sexes appears chiefly in _Maclin_ and _Brussels_ lace, with which they trim their linen in a most extravagant manner, not omitting their sheets and pillows. Beside the outward covering of the mantle aforesaid, their linen is doubly borderd with it top and bottom, with ruffles of four or five furbelows hanging down to the knee. Then as to pearls and costly stones, which they wear in rings and bracelets for the neck and arms, they are very immoderate; though the value is hardly equal to the appearance.
Of all the convents in _Lima_, that of _St. Domingo_ is the richest, and _Francisco_ the largest. The provincial or governer of the _Dominicans_ is chosen triennially out of their own body, and his income above seven thousand pound a year. I was present at one election, which I mention because of the great splendor and cost which attended it. A large triumphal arch was built cross the street: the inside lined with scarlet cloth and velvet, and hung all over with jewels and wrought plate. Thro’ this the principal people of _Lima_ past with the new provincial at their head; where he stopd to hear a short oration pronounced by a girl upon that occasion, and then went to his convent to finish the solemnity.
The processions in _Lima_ are made with more show and pageantry than those in _Europe_, and are sometimes very extravagant. I was present at that noted one when the image of _St. Dominic_ goes to church to wait upon that of _St. Francis_, which is attended with a deal of firework and equipage: and I doubt not the managers of our opera and comedy would improve much by seeing the odd figures and machinery of this grand visit, which is made yearly to keep up the singular esteem the _Spaniards_ have for those two orders. Tho’ these expenses are profuse, yet at _Lima_ they are common, where the begging fryers often die possest of dollars, from the value of ten to twenty thousand pound. One instance of the riches of this place, I was told by several who rememberd it: that when the duke _de la Plata_ their viceroy made his entry, the inhabitants paved the merchant street thro’ which he past with bars of silver, each of which was 2500 dollars at least: which piece of finery I can liken to nothing but the account we have of _Jerusalem_ in the days of king _Solomon_.
The viceroy has a handsome palace in the great quadrangle of the city; which I take to be near as large as _Lincolns-Inn-Fields_ at _London_. His salary is ten thousand pound a year, and his perquisits double that sum: and tho’ his government expires at three, four, or five years end as the king pleases, yet ’tis supposed he makes a good fortune for life; for he has all places in his gift, both in the government and army throughout _Peru_, except particular persons are sent or nominated by the king.
The judicial court consists of twelve judges, not to mention the inferior officers, council and solicitors. Here all causes should come to be decided; but they are too often determined aforehand in favour of the party who gives most mony. And tho’ these vast dominions abound in riches, yet there is not abundance of work for the lawyers; because the statutes are few and plain: which is certainly happier than a multitude of laws _explaining_ one another ’till they are so _intricate_ that the issue of a cause depends more upon the craft of the solicitor and advocate, than the truth of the case. Moreover, a multiplication of laws begets an infinity of attorneys and council, who live high and great upon the distresses of other people, and as often argue a man _out_ of his right as _into_ it.