A Treatise on Tobacco, Tea, Coffee, and Chocolate
Part 8
It is not, therefore, the native Heat, but that fatal Dryness which renders the Members cold, and the Skin corrugated, which renders old Persons fond of drinking; and for this Reason, I have, in my _Commentaries_, universally commended a moistening Diet for them. Hence, the Inhabitants of those Nations, who, besides _Tea_, daily drink Wine, ought carefully to guard against all sudden Changes in Diet and Regimen. Thus, when a certain celebrated _French_ Physician, endeavoured to perswade a Person of eminent Rank, who was, generally, twice or thrice a Year seized with a Catarrh, to change his Regimen, and give over the Use of Wine, or, at least, dilute it with Water; because, in all Probability, the Physician told him, that cold Water powerfully corrected acrid Humours. Upon this, the Person of Distinction asked the Physician, whether he was in good Health? To whom the Physician replied he was: Then, says he, continue to drink Water, or Wine and Water, till you can drink no more; but you shall never, on account of slight Catarrhs, which are rarely offensive to me, perswade me to accept of a _French_, or _Italian_ Regimen, instead of a _Danish_, and _German_: Nor will I drink Water instead of Wine, or Ale. I am at present full of Flesh and Blood, and enjoy a good Appetite: My Forefathers, for many Years back, were of the like Constitution, and used the same Regimen I do; but if, in the sixtieth Year of my Age, I should begin to drink Water, I am afraid I should rather resemble you than them; for you, who are a Water-drinker, though you enjoy good Health, yet you are emaciated, have a cadaverous Countenance, and seem to be rather a Skeleton than a living Person. I wish all Persons, especially such as are old, would follow the Example of this Gentleman, and obstinately reject _Tea_, which so dries the Bodies of the _Chinese_, that they can hardly spit. It is also an egregious Mistake, not only among the _Persians_, but also among most other Nations, to think that the Seed _Bon_, or _Ban_, which when toasted is called _Coffee_, and which I have taken Care to have engraved in the Plate after the History of _Scurvy-Grass, No. 11, 12._ of my _Quadripartitium_, is of so cooling a Quality, as to produce Impotence, even in those who use it frequently; for it only dries them. Thus _Casmin_, the Wife of Sultan _Mahmud_, after her Husband had so weakened himself by the Use of _Coffee_, that he had been impotent for many Years, is said, when she saw the Preparations making, for gelding a generous _Persian_ Steed, to have told the Persons employed in that Work, that there was no Occasion for so much Trouble, since, by giving the Horse _Coffee_, he would become like her Husband, the King. This Story is, with the same Circumstances, related by _Olearius_, in his Travels through _Muscovy_ and _Persia_. _Coffee_, then produces Sterility in the _Persians_, not because it is cold, but because it gradually dries their Bodies, by means of a certain Sulphur, as peculiar to itself, as those of _Opium_, _Tobacco_, or _Agnus Castus_ are to them. As the _Agnus Castus_, or _Vitex_ is, by _Galen_, said to be dry in the third Degree, like _Rue_, and to consist of very subtile Parts, it is impossible it should produce Impotence by rendering the Seed cold, which it diminishes and dissipates, not so much by the Subtilty of its Parts, as by its peculiar Sulphur. The incomparable _Hoffman_, both in his _Variæ Lectiones_, and in his Treatise _de Medicamentis Officinalibus_, has treated accurately of the _Vitex_. But, if that Author had been still alive, he would have agreed with me in this, that what _Galen_ ascribes to the Subtilty of the Parts, not only of all Simples, but also of such Things as act by their whole Substance, such as _Opium_, _Tobacco_, _Agnus Castus_, _Chinese Tea_, _European Tea_, or the _Myrtus Brabantica_, or the _Chamelæagnus Danica_, is to be ascribed to their small sulphureous, and excessively dry Parts. Thus the Seeds of the _Agnus Castus_ affect the Head, and from what has been said, it is sufficiently obvious, that the Seeds of the _Chamelæagnus_ contribute principally to intoxicate the Country People, who prepare their Ale with it: The Seeds of the _Agnus Castus_, according to _Hoffman_, "do not convey Flatulences to the Head, except when they affect it by the Subtilty of their Parts (which I call their sulphureous Quality) just as Wine, whose Taste and Smell they have, according to _Pliny_, affects the Head, and procures Sleep." All these Properties of Wine, as well as of our _Chamelæagnus_, proceed from their Sulphur, which is grateful to the Nerves: But these Effects could never be produced, only by _Galen_'s Subtilty of the Parts. But to proceed, in the Words of _Hoffman_: "Another Proof of the Subtilty of the Parts of _Agnus Castus_, (which I call its sulphureous Quality) is, that its Seeds, whether crude, or toasted, discuss Flatulencies of the Intestines, and most powerfully when toasted; since these do not so much affect the Head as the former." Thus, it also happens, that an Account of the artificial and careful Toasting of the _Chinese Tea_, by which most of its sulphureous Parts are dissipated, it prevents Sleep in the _Chinese_: Whereas, the _European Tea_, or _Chamelæagnus_, renders the Country People, as it were, intoxicated, and disposed to Sleep. But these different Effects are not owing to any occult Qualities of the _Chinese_ and _European Teas_, but manifestly to the sulphureous Parts, of which the _Chinese_ has a far smaller Quantity than our _Chamelæagnus_. Thus, it is certain, that prepared _Vipers_ may be safely eaten, and that _Dioscorides_ roasted _Vipers_ for Food; so vast a Difference there is between artificial Preparations, and natural Productions. But to proceed: _Hoffman_, with respect to toasting the Seeds of the _Agnus Castus_, tells us, "That in toasting, the remarkably subtile Parts are dissipated." These remarkably subtile Parts, I call sulphureous, which the _Persians_ also dissipate, by an artificial toasting, from the Seeds _Bon_, or _Ban_, conveyed to them from _Egypt_. Thus, the celebrated _Hoffman_, only differs from me in Words, but not in Sentiments. The same also holds true of _Chocolate_. I, therefore, conclude, that all these Substances are of a drying Quality, on account of their sulphureous Parts. I would, therefore, advise all _Europeans_ to have a due Regard to these Things, to preserve Youth by moistening Substances, and prevent old Age, which is brought on before its due Time, by Means of these drying and sulphureous Commodities; though, at the same time, I do not prohibit the Use of moderately hot Substances. Let no one condemn me for making Repetitions; since it is a Maxim, not only of Policy, but also of common Humanity, _That the Safety of the People, is, of all other Laws, the most essential and important._ If, therefore, an immense Reward was bestowed on the Man who preserved a single _Roman_ Citizen, I may, certainly, hope for Indulgence, when, by repeated Expostulations, I attempt to preserve all _Europe_, by perswading its Inhabitants not to exchange our own salutary Regimen, for that of the _Asiatics_, and _Chinese_, by following their Custom of _Tea_-Drinking. _Martinus Martinius_, indeed, in his Preface to his _Atlas Siniticus_, greatly extols the _Chinese_ Regimen, in the following Manner: "Their Drinks, says he, whether prepared with Water, Wine, or Rice, must always be warm; they macerate their _Tea_ in particular in boiling Water, which they drink as hot as they can bear. When I was accustomed to this Regimen, I commended the _Chinese_, and condemned the _Europeans_, who are so fond of drinking cold Liquors; for, in _China_, the Inhabitants, by drinking their Liquors warm, both extinguish Thirst, and so dissipate the redundant Humours, that they hardly ever spit; nor are they afflicted with Crudities of the Stomach, as the _Europeans_ are: They have also fewer, and less violent Diseases; neither are the Stone, the Gout in the Hands and Feet, and other similar Disorders, known among them." But these Things happened to _Martinius_, in _China_, and not in _Europe_. Nor shall he ever perswade me, to change the _European_, for the _Indian_ Regimen. Since, according to _Martinius_ himself, some of the Inhabitants of that Country, on account of the _Pythagorean_ Doctrine, of the Transmigration of Souls, religiously abstain from Flesh, and think,
----_Scelus est in Viscere Viscera Condi, Congestoq; Avidum pinguescere Corpore Corpus, Alterusq; Animantem Animantis vivero Letho._
_Martinius_, therefore, makes an insufficient Enumeration of Causes; since the good Health of the _Chinese_, is not totally owing to the Use of _Tea_, but to various other Circumstances, which we shall not here enumerate: Only I shall, from the _Amphiatridius_ of _Johannes Boterius_, published in 1600, observe, "That in the various Districts of _China_, the Clemency and Salubrity of the Air is so great, that a Pestilence has never been remembered to rage universally in them." For the Sake also of those who want the sixth Part of the _Theatrum Europæum Johannis Bleau_, or the _Novus Atlas Martinii_, I shall, from the Preface of the last-mentioned Author, take the following Passage: "In Practice, the _Chinese_ Physicians surpass those of _Europe_, who are more addicted to Dispute and Speculation, but less successful and happy in the Cure of Diseases, than the former." But, if a _Chinese_ Physician was to practice on the _Baltick_ Shore, where endemial _Scurvys_ rage, it is hardly credible, that he would cure them with greater Success, than a skilful _European_ Physician does; since, according to _Hippocrates_, there are many nominal, but few real Physicians. The same Author, in his _Prisca Medicina_, informs us, "That most Physicians resemble bad Pilots, who, if they steer the Vessel in a smooth and calm Sea, can prevent the Detection of their Ignorance; but, when they are attacked by blowing Winds, and violent Tempests, it becomes sufficiently obvious, that the Ship must be lost through their Fault, and Want of Skill." But to drop the Defence of the _European_ Physicians, I shall return to the _Asiatics_. _Martinius_ then, in the Passage last quoted, tells us, "That the _Chinese_ Physicians generally prepare their Medicines of Simples and Decoctions; that they use Unctions, and Frictions, but not Venesections, which they look upon as an irreparable Error. They rather chuse to reduce the Blood to a due Temperature, by Fasting, and refrigerating Medicines; for, say they, because Broth boils in a Pot, the Broth is not, therefore, to be poured out, but the Fire to be removed from the Pot." But this Comparison is certainly far from being just: And, a little after, the Author subjoins, "In _China_ are great Numbers of Chymists, who confidently boast of producing Gold, and preventing Death by Means of their Medicines. The Design of these Men is like that of their Brethren in _Europe_, to extort Money from the credulous and avaritious Part of their Fellow Creatures."
I now return, to consider the Air, Water, and Situation of the _Chinese_. _Martinius_ then, in the Place before quoted, tells us, that _China_, or the most remote Parts of _Asia_, abounds with all Kinds of metallic Mines, such as those of Gold, Silver, Mercury, Iron, Tin, Copper, Minium, _Lapis Lazuli_, and Vitriol; in consequence of which, it is probable, that the _Chinese_ Waters, flowing from the Mountains, as well as those of _Europe_, partake of the Qualities of the various Minerals through which they glide. Thus, according to _Georgius Agricola_, in _Lib. 10. de Natur. Fossil. Cap. 18._ at _Goslar_, in _Saxony_, there is a Kind of Bole, or Earth, impregnated with the Juice of _Vitriol_, as also with _Oker_. The same _Agricola_, in _Lib. 1. De Natura eorum quæ ex Terra effluunt. Cap. 4._ informs us, that the River _Ochra_, receives its Name from _Oker_, with which it is tinged, of a yellow Colour, at the Place where a Rivulet coming from Mount _Ramelus_, disembogues itself into it. Hence, it is easy to assign a Reason, why the _Goslar_ Ale is so diuretic: The _Garlabian_ Ale also, so much used at _Helmstadt_, is of a medicinal Nature: Hence, according to the celebrated _Hoffman_, in _Paral. Officin. Cap. ult._ "It both cures and produces Diseases in such as are not accustomed to it; for it is prepared of some hot, mineral Water, as is obvious from its peculiar Taste. On the contrary, the _Turgensian_ Ale is highly agreeable; because the Water of which it is prepared has some mineral Quality, which is easily lost by Carriage; which also happens to other Waters. Hence, _Augustus_, Elector of _Leipsic_, in preparing his Ale, instead of _Malt_, ordered only a Drag to be boiled." I would not, however, have any one confide too much, either in hot or cold Mineral Waters. But among Mineral Waters, I also reckon that described by _Martinius_, in his Account of the ninth Province of _China_, called _Kiangnar_, and the fifth Town, called _Chang-chew_, in the following Manner: "Near _Kiangin_ is a Mount, called Mount _Chin_, celebrated on account of a fabulous _Chinese_ Story; for they assert, that a Woman was there born of a _Deer_. The Rivulet _Leang_, from a small Hill, called _Hoej_, flows into a Lake, near _Vusie_: Its Origin is a Fountain called _Hoej_, whose Waters are, by the Natives, accounted to be the second in Goodness; and I myself am convinced from Experience, that the _Chinese_ are in the right, with respect to these Waters; for they are universally admired by the Grandees; and hardly any Ship passes, without purchasing, for a Trifle, large Quantities of this Water, previously put up in Casks; though Strangers, who stay for any Time there, may, for nothing, drink as much as they please. It is conveyed to the most remote Provinces, even as far as _Peking_; for it is excellently well suited to the Preparation of _Tea_: So that these two Commodities are generally sold together." But surely this _Chinese_ Water is to be had in no Part of _Europe_. The same Author, in his Description of the fifteenth Province, called _Junnam_, and its Metropolis, tells us, "That in Mount _Xang_, situated to the _North_ of the Town, there is a Spring of intensely cold Water, which, however, is highly beneficial to paralitic Persons." He also tells us, that in the same Province, there is a Spring called _Hiangkui_, which, in their Language, signifies odoriferous Water, "Because it diffuses a fragrant Scent, especially in the _Spring_, at which Time, the Inhabitants offer Sacrifices to the Fountain, and drink Water, mixed with Wine, or with a Liquor prepared of _Rice_. They also assert, that this Liquor cures many Diseases." That these Waters are impregnated with Metallic Particles, I have two Reasons to believe: First, Because _Martinius_ informs us, that the Rivulet near the City _Vusie_, flows from a Fountain on a little Hill, called _Hoej_: The second is, that the Waters of this Lake are conveyed to the remotest Provinces, even to the Royal City, _Peking_, where they are used by the Grandees in preparing their _Tea_. But the best Waters, when taken from the _Spring_, cannot be long preserved from Corruption, unless they abound with a peculiar Salt: Since the cold Mineral Waters of the _Spaw_, lose much of their Virtue by being conveyed only into the Provinces adjacent to _Germany_. Thus, it is sufficiently known to all the _Europeans_, that the _May_ Rains abound with Salt and Sulphur; in consequence of which, they keep longer free from Corruption than other Waters. For this Reason, it is customary among the _Papists_, to prepare their _Holy Water_ of _May_ Rain: See my _Digressio de Febribus Malignis_. But, lest these Reasons should be esteemed conjectural, I shall farther prove, and confirm my Opinion from _Martinius_, who, in the Place before quoted, speaks in the following Manner: "It is not without Reason that the City _Gnihing_ receives that _Name_, which, in their Language, signifies the _Glory of the Earth_; and which was bestowed upon it, because in it are made the earthen Vessels, used in diluting, and drinking their _Tea_. The Reason why these are preferred to the _Chinese_, though more transparent, and diaphanous, is, because the former convey to the _Tea_, a certain Taste and Smell, much admired by the _Chinese_; so that the Inhabitants of that City are much employed in making them; and some of them are sold at a Price equal, if not superior, to those of _Portugal_." Since, therefore, these Vessels communicate to the _Tea_, both a Smell and Taste, which are grateful to the _Chinese_; since the Cause of Taste is a volatile Salt, and that of Smell a certain Sulphur; since this Salt and Sulphur can hardly be separated by Chymistry; and since it is peculiar to Salt to penetrate into the Essence of Things; it must necessarily happen, that the Water, taken from the Lake, or River last mentioned, and which is without any Smell, (for, if it had been odorous, _Martinius_ would have mentioned that Circumstance, as he did of the third Fountain) must gradually extract the Taste and Smell from those precious Vessels, resembling _Lemnian_ or _Silesian_ Earth. But this Water of the Rivulet _Leang_, or of the Fountain _Hoej_, would either not at all, or with Difficulty, extract the Taste and Smell from these earthen Vessels, unless it abounded with an highly penetrating Salt, or, perhaps, a Vitriol; since _Martinius_ tells us, that Vitriol Mines are found in _China_, for no Substance can communicate to another, a Quality which it does possess itself. _Tea_ has indeed a Taste, though not of the grateful Kind, as is obvious from what has been said. The Taste and Smell, therefore, which the _Chinese_ perceive in drinking _Tea_, do not proceed from the _Tea_ itself, but from the Water, or earthen Vessels they use, or from both; from the Water, which by its Mineral Salt, extracts from the Vessels their Salt and Sulphur; and from the Vessels, which in return communicate these to the Water. For this peculiar Quality of the Earth, the City is called _Gnihing_, which, according to _Martinius_, signifies the _Glory of the Earth_. It is, by no means, surprizing to find various fragrant Mineral Earths: Thus, in the Dutchy of _Kalenberg_, in _Germany_, there is dug up a certain bituminous Mineral, which is a Kind of intermediate Substance, between Earth, Clay, and Stone; and which if it is either licked with the Tongue, or has cold Water, and especially Rain-Water, poured upon it, diffuses a Smell as fragrant as that of the Violet: The Truth of this, I know from Experience. But these precious Vessels are so rare in _Europe_, that the smallest of them are not to be purchased under an immense Sum. When, however, I understood, that _Frederic_ the third, King of _Norway_ and _Denmark_, had, among other _Chinese_ Curiosities, two of these elegant and sumptuous Vessels; I obtained the Use of them from him, and prevailed upon _Julius Reichelt_, Professor of Mathematics at _Strasburg_, and a skilful Designer, to delineate them. This Gentleman has, with the greatest Accuracy, not only exhibited in the following Plates, these, and other _Chinese_ Utensils, but also informed himself of their real Bulk, with all the Care and Pains he possibly could: But we shall give an Account of his Performance in his own Words:
"At the Request of the learned and judicious _Simon Pauli_, I have delineated some of the _Chinese_ Utensils, and hope for Indulgence, because these Vessels are neither exhibited according to the Laws of Painting, nor Perspective; but in a Manner, used by Mechanics, since I thought it expedient, both for the Sake of the Subject, and the Satisfaction of the curious Reader, to have a due Regard to Capacity, and Measure. I have exhibited the Orthography of the Vessel represented by _Fig._ IX. the Scenography of _Fig._ III. of which the Orthography is represented by _Fig._ IV. In _Fig._ VIII. the Scenography of the Vessel M, and the Orthography of its Cover N, are represented; but I have only described the Scenographies of all the rest. I have used the _Rhinlandian_ Geometrical Foot, to the Measure of which all the Parts of these Vessels are adjusted, in that Proportion, observable in _Fig._ XIV. which represents a smaller Foot, divided into ten Parts. _Fig._ XIII. exhibits a wooden Instrument, exactly of the same Size with the Figure. In all the Figures I have represented the Length and Breadth by Diameters and Diagonals; but the Height or Depth, by pricked Perpendiculars. I hope the Mathematical Reader will find no Fault with the quadrangular Passage B in _Fig._ I. for conveying the Air, in order to ventilate the Coals; nor with _Fig._ IX. the two Feet of which, shade other two similar to themselves."
_An Explanation of the Figures, representing some_ Chinese _Utensils._
_Fig._ I. Represents a Kind of Kettle, curiously made of _Chinese_ Copper, furnished with a Handle, divided by a Copper Partition; and which, though at first View, it appears to be one Vessel, is yet, upon narrower Inspection, found to be two, with two Coverings; for A represents a small Furnace, into which the Coals are put; and B, the Mouth of the Furnace, covered with Cross-Bars, for the better Ventilation of the Coals. The other Vessel has its internal Surface lined, or covered with Tin, serves either for drying, or boiling the _Tea_, and is furnished with a particular small Tube, the Cover of which is exhibited by _a_; by the Benefit of which, the large Coverings, C D, being shut up, the Vapours of the _Tea_ may be retained, or allowed to exhale at Pleasure.
_Fig._ II. E represents a Copper Vessel, in which the _Tea_ is either boiled, or preserved, when dry. E represents its Tube, and F the covering of the Tube.
_Fig._ III. and IV. G G exhibit different Views of one and the same Vessel, the internal Surface of which is lined with a thin gilded Plate, of some proper Metal, and the external Surface, covered with Lack, after the Manner of the _Chinese_.
_Fig._ V. I I. No. 1. represents a genuine _Chinese Tea-Leaf_ macerated, and stretched to its full Extent. No. 2. A Leaf of the _Chamelæagnus_, or what the _French_ call _Piment Royal_, artificially dried.
_Fig._ VI. K represents another, and, in my Opinion, a spurious _Chinese Tea-Leaf_, brought from _China_.
_Fig._ VII. L exhibits a Leaf of what _Clusius_ calls the _Spiræa Theophrasti_, found in the Green-Houses of _Copenhagen_, and so like the spurious _Chinese Tea_, with which the genuine is adulterated, that the one cannot be distinguished from the other.
_Fig._ VIII. M represents a curious Polygonal _Tea-Pot_, probably made of sealed _Lemnian_, or _Silesian_ Earth. N its Lid joined by the golden Chain O, to its Handle P. and Q. Its Stroup curiously tipped with Gold.
_Fig._ IX. R represents another earthen _Tea-Pot_, with a Stroup, but of a roundish, or oblong Form, and in the Lid of which, is fixed a Ring of Clay S for taking it off and putting it on: Both these earthen _Tea-Pots_ are highly fragrant; the former is of a light, and the latter of a pale red Colour.
_Fig._ X. T exhibits a Copper Vessel lined with Tin, capable of containing four Ounces; and whose inferior Part about the Letter V is covered with a Kind of Case, woven of such Wood as the _Europeans_ use in making Sieves; but so as that the Vessel can be taken out of the Case. But I am of Opinion, that the _Chinese_ pour their hot _Tea_, whether infused, or boiled, into this, in order to prevent the scalding of their Hands; and so cool the Liquor, as that it may neither burn their Lips, nor Tongue.