A Treatise on Tobacco, Tea, Coffee, and Chocolate
Part 3
I Have hitherto strenuously endeavoured to preserve the Health of the _Europeans_, by discarding and exploding the Abuse of _Tobacco_: But if any one should ask my Sentiments of _Tea_, which some Years ago began to be imported from _Asia_, and the _Eastern_ Countries, and which has Qualities quite contrary to _Tobacco_, since it prevents Sleep, and therefore is by some Authors highly commended as an excellent Cephalic, and very grateful to the _Viscera_, subservient to Nutrition: I answer, that no satisfactory Reply can be made, till we know the Genus and Species of _Tea_, and to what Species of _European_ Herbs it may be referred or compared; for _Tobacco_ is by us called the _Peruvian Hyosciamius_, but we give no Name of any of our Plants to _Tea_: Nay, it is not known, whether _Tea_ is what the _Greeks_ call Ποα, an Herb, or Θαμνίσκιον, a Shrub, which Words, according to _Ruellius_, _Morantha_, and others, are so confounded by _Dioscorides_, _Theophrastus_, and other Botanists, as to occasion great Disputes among the Learned. But the Authors, who have most faithfully collected whatever has been wrote upon _Tea_, either in the _Spanish_, _French_, _Latin_, _English_, or _Dutch_ Languages, are _Nicolaus Tulpius_, and _Nicolaus Trigautius_, from the Works of whom I shall enquire,
_1st_, Of what Kind and Species the Herb _Tea_ is?
_2d_, Whether _Tea_ is only the Produce of _Asia_, and whether it is ever found in _Europe_, or not? And,
_3d_, Which of the _European_ Herbs may be most properly used in its Stead.
_Tulpius_, then, speaks in the following Manner: "In the _East Indies_ nothing is more common than drinking the Decoction of an Herb, which the _Chinese_ call _Thee_, and the _Japonese_, _Tchia_. As my Accounts of this Plant were received from the best and most impartial Authors, I shall willingly hand them down to Posterity. The Herb _Tea_, therefore, has long acuminated Leaves crenated about the Edges. Its Roots are fibrous, and divided into very small Shreds. It grows not only in _China_ and _Japan_, but also in _Chiam_, only the Leaves of the _Chinese Tea_ are of a blackish green Colour: Whereas the _Japonese Tea_ is of a fainter Colour, and more grateful Taste. Hence it also happens, that the _Tchia_ of the _Japonese_, is far more esteemed than the _Thee_ of the _Chinese_; since one Pound of the former is frequently sold at an Hundred _Libræ_; for it is in these Parts of the World believed, that nothing is more salutary and beneficial than this Herb, whether for protracting Life to extreme old Age, or for preventing the Attacks of Diseases. It not only renders the Body vigorous and active, and prevents the Stone, to which none of the Inhabitants are for this Reason subject, but also removes Head-achs, Stuffings of the Head, Inflammations, and Distillations of the Eyes, a Difficulty of Breathing, Weakness of the Stomach, Gripes of the Intestines, and Weariness. It also so effectually prevents Sleep, that those who drink it at Night, can sit up, without feeling the least Inclination to sleep: for it is moderately heating, and by constricting the Mouth of the Stomach, hinders the Ascent of those Vapours which are necessary to procure Sleep; so that, by its Means, nothing hinders or interrupts those who intend to read or write all Night.
"This Plant, however, seems neither to have been long known, nor long used, among the _Chinese_, since they have no hieroglyphical Characters, such as most of their Letters are, which express its Nature and Qualities. These two Nations also differ widely, with respect to the Manner of using _Tea_; since the _Japonese_ mix the _Tea_, powdered in a Marble Mortar, with warm Water: Whereas, the _Chinese_, boil the Plant itself with some Liquor, adding a few Grains of Salt, or Sugar. This Decoction, they drink with their Friends and Visitors; and even their leading Men do not think it beneath them, but rather a Piece of Honour to prepare the _Tea_ for their Guests; for which Purpose they have Closets in their Palaces, fitted up on purpose, in which they keep their Pots, Tripods, Tunnels, Cups, Spoons, and other _Tea_ Utensils, which they buy at an exorbitant Price, preserve in Silk, and only use when their best Friends visit them. These, they esteem as much as we do Adamants, Gems, and the most precious Stones. See _Joh. Maffæus_, _Rer. Indicar. Lib. 6. & 12._ _Ludovic_, _Almeid. Select. Epist. Lib. 4._ _Petr. Garric. Tom. 2. Lib. 2. Cap. 17._ _Matth. Ricius, de Christ. Expedit. apud Sinas, Lib. 1. Cap. 7._ _Alois Frois, in Relat. Japon. Jac. Bontius, Dialog. 6._ _Med. Indorum, & Johan. Linseot, Cap. 26._"
_Nicolaus Trigautius_, in _Tractat. de Regno Chinæ, Cap. 3._ where he treats of the Things produced in _China_, gives us the following Particulars, with respect to _Tea_: "I purposely, says he, omit the Description of many Things necessary, such as Marbles of different Colours, Carbuncles, and other Stones and Gems, not unfit for painting; odoriferous Woods, Bitumens, and an incredible Number of other Curiosities; but I neither can, nor ought to pass over, in Silence, two or three Things, unknown to the _Europeans_; the first of which is, that Shrub, of the Leaves of which is prepared that celebrated Liquor, called _Cia_, by the _Chinese_, _Japonese_, and neighbouring Countries. It is not possible, that the Herb from which this is prepared has been very long used by the _Chinese_; since, in order to represent it, they have no hieroglyphical Characters, such as all their Letters are. Hence it may, perhaps, be suspected, that our _European_ Woods produce this Herb. They gather the Leaves in the _Spring_, dry them in a Shade, and keep them for preparing a Decoction, which they almost continually use, not only at their Meals, but also when their Friends come to visit them; for this is generally the Entertainment to which they invite each other. It is always drank, or rather sipped warm; nor is it ungrateful to the Palate, in consequence of its temperate Bitterness; but it is very salutary, and frequently used for various Disorders. _Tea_ is not with them all of one Price; since, sometimes, a Pound is sold for a Noble, and, at other Times, for two or three, if it is accounted good: The best of the _Japonese Tea_ is often sold for ten or twelve, and the Method of preparing it with these, is somewhat different from that of the _Chinese_; for the _Japonese_, having reduced their _Tea_ to a Powder, mix two or three Spoonfuls of it with a Cup of boiling Water, which they drink when moderately cool: Whereas, the _Chinese_ throw some of the Leaves into a Vessel of boiling Water, which, after it has imbibed the Force of the _Tea_, they drink, leaving the Leaves." But, in the seventh Chapter of the same Work, which treats of some of the Customs of the _Chinese_, the Author speaks in the following Manner: "When any one receives a formal Invitation to a Feast; the Day before, or several Days before, it is to be kept, the Master sends him a Kind of Ticket, desiring his Presence: When he is come to the House, and the usual Ceremonies past, he is set down in the first Hall, where he drinks his _Tea_; after which he is conducted to the Feasting-Room, which is not adorned with Carpets, which they never use, but with Pictures, Flowers, Vessels, and other antient Houshold Furniture." Though these Accounts may satisfy the Vulgar, yet they will not prove satisfactory to Physicians, who want to know, whether _Tea_ is an Herb, a Shrub, or a Species of Copse; for the two last quoted Authors differ from each other; since _Tulpius_ calls the _Chinese Tea_, "an Herb, with darkish, green, oblong Leaves, acuminated and crenated about the Edges, with fibrous Roots, divided into many small Shreds. Whereas, the Leaves of the _Japonese Tea_ are of a fainter green Colour, and of a more grateful Taste." But _Trigautius_ affirms, "that it is a Shrub of the Leaves, of which the celebrated _Cia_, of the _Chinese_ and _Japonese_, is prepared by Decoction." The former asserts, that the Herb _Tea_, grows not only in _China_ and _Japan_, but also in _Chiam_: The latter thinks it is to be suspected, that it is also produced in the _European_ Woods: But, as I shall afterwards accurately discuss these Points, I shall only here observe, from _Olearius_, that _Maffœus_, in _Tr. de Rebus Indicis_, affirms, that the _Japonese_, from a certain Plant, express an highly salutary Liquor, which they call _Chia_; and _Linschotanus_, in _Tr. de Insula Japoniæ_, tells us, that the Inhabitants of _Japan_ prepare a Drink called _Chaa_, from a certain Herb: But these Authors neither mention the Shrub, nor the Leaves, but unanimously assert _Tea_ to be an Herb. _Jacobus Bontius_, Physician in Ordinary to the Town of _New Batavia_, in the Island of _Java_, in the _East Indies_, in _Medic. Indor. Lib. 2. de Conserv. Valetud. Dialog. 6._ affirms, "that the Leaves of the small Herb, from which _Tea_ is prepared, resemble those of the _Daisy_ or lesser _Cousound_, and have small Incisions about their Edges." But since, in the subsequent Chapter, he affirms, that the Inhabitants of that Country, though brutally ignorant in every other Respect, have yet such an exact Knowledge of Roots and Plants, that if _Pavius_, the greatest Botanist of his Age, was to rise from the Dead, he would wonder to find that he could be instructed by these Men; I am surprized, he should have despised their Information, and, contrary to the Custom of their Historiographers, given us (_Europeans_) such a lame and imperfect Description of _Tea_, when commenting on the _Indian_ Plants. One would be ready to take it for an Herb, when he is told, that its Leaves resemble those of the _Daisy_, and have small Incisions about the Edges, which _Tulpius_ also ascribes to them. It is worth our Observation, that _Tulpius_, _Trigautius_, _Bontius_, and other Authors, unanimously agree in this, that the Decoction of _Tea_ is of a pretty, grateful, bitter Taste. In order, therefore, to clear up these Difficulties, I must have recourse to the Reverend Father, _Alexander de Rhodes_, who, in his _Sommaire des divers Voyages & Missions Apostoliques_, speaks in the following Manner: "Among the most memorable Things in this Country, is _Tay_; the Use of which is not only common to all the _Eastern_ Countries, but also begins to be known in _Europe_: It is justly to be reckoned among the most salutary Substances which I observed in this Country; and I do not know but it is one of the principal Causes, why the Inhabitants not only enjoy such a good State of Health, but also arrive at so extreme an old Age. The Leaves are as big as those of the Pomegranate Tree, and the Shrub itself resembles the Myrtle Bush. Nor does _Tea_ grow in any Part of the World, except in two Provinces of _China_, which are _Nanquin_ and _Chim_, the Inhabitants of which have their Harvests for _Tea_ Leaves, as we have for our Grain in _Europe_. These Leaves they dry in Furnaces, and preserve for Use in close stopped Vessels. It is frequently used through all _China_, _Japan_, _Tonquin_, and other Kingdoms; and there are such great Quantities of it, that it is sold at a Small Price. For this Reason they use it frequently every Day, or rather each Hour, prepared in the following Manner: They throw the Leaves into boiling Water, which they forthwith take off the Fire; and when the Leaves have subsided, which is generally in a Quarter of an Hour, they drink the Water, from which they find three very happy Effects; the first of which is to repress Vapours, and alleviate Pains of the Head: For when I laboured under an _Hemicrania_, or any other Disorder of the Head, by drinking this Water, I had my Pain so quickly alleviated, as if a Person had done it by the Application of his Hand. When, for the Sake of hearing Confessions, I was obliged to sit up whole Nights, I used the same Remedy, and, by its Means, was not only hindered from sleeping, but also felt no more Uneasiness next Day, than if I had not sat up. I once made an Experiment of this for six Nights successively, but must confess I found myself wearied and exhausted. The second Virtue of this Water, or Decoction, is to corroborate the Stomach, and the third to purge the Kidnies from Stones and Gravel." _Bernardus Varenius_, in _Descript. Regni Japoniæ, Cap. 23._ speaks in the following Manner: "Not only the _Japonese_, but also the _Chinese_, are delighted with Draughts of almost boiling Water, in which the Powder of _Tea_ is sprinkled. The Herb _Tea_ is not only Green itself, but also tinges any Liquor with the same Colour. It grows only in some, and not in all Countries, and the finer Kind of its Leaves is thought to be very valuable. These Leaves are, by the richer Sort, kept in large Vessels, close stopped, in order to prevent the Access of the Air. The Leaves, before they are used, are reduced to a Powder." And a little after he subjoins, "This Liquor is pleasant to the Taste, and highly salutary, especially for carrying off the Uneasiness produced by Surfeits, and for removing all pituitous Disorders: So that it is become a proverbial Saying, with respect to the Rich, _How is it possible they should not enjoy good Health, since they drink the best_ Tsia?" _Olearius_, in the Work before quoted, speaks of _Tea_ in the following Manner: "We have already observed, that at the _Maidan_ in _Ispahan_, there are, among others, particular Species of Inns, called _Tzai_, _Chattai_, and _Chane_, in which, as well as in other Places, the _Persians_ drink an hot, black Water, prepared of an Herb, brought into their Country by the _Usbeck Tartars_. This Herb has oblong pointed Leaves, about an Inch long, and half an Inch broad, which, when dried, are of a blackish Colour, and shrivel up into the Form of a Worm; but they are the same with what the _Chinese_ call _Tea_, and the _Japonese_ and _Indians_, _Chia_, and _Cha_. In each of these Nations, this Herb is highly esteemed; the _Persians_ boil it with Spring-Water, _Anise_ and _Fennel_: Some of them also add a small Quantity of _Cloves_ to it. The _Persians_, _Chinese_, _Japonese_, and _Indians_, ascribe uncommon Virtue and Efficacy to this Water, affirming, that it produces the most salutary Effects on the Stomach, Lungs, Liver, Mass of Blood, and all the _Viscera_, which it deterges and corroborates. It also expels the Stone, removes the Head-ach, and dissipates that superfluous Humidity, which produces Lassitude and Drowsiness. By drinking this Water, a Person is rendered so lively, brisk, and alert, as chearfully to bear the Want of Sleep for several Nights, and without any Pain, or Fatigue, apply long to Business of the greatest Importance. This Liquor, when drank in Moderation, not only preserves Health, but also protracts Life to an excessive old Age. This Herb _Tea_ is, at present, well known in _Holland_, since the _East-Indiamen_ bring large Quantities of it to _Amsterdam_." _Johannes Albertus von Mandelslo_, in _Itinerar. Indiæ Orientalis, Cap. 11._ gives us the following memorable Account of _Tea_: "In our Visits, we make use of the black Water, in which the Herb _Tea_ is boiled. This Liquor, which is very common in the _Indies_, is greatly admired, not only by the Natives, but also by the _English_ and _Dutch_; since it is said to carry off Phlegm, warm the Stomach, and procure Digestion. We drink it three Times a Day, namely, in the Morning, Afternoon, and Evening. The _Persians_ also drink a black Water, called _Chavve_, which, in Colour, resembles the _Tea_, though its Virtues and Efficacy are different; since the _Chavve_ is a great Cooler, and procures Sterility, on which Account, the lascivious _Persians_ chuse to drink it: On the contrary, the _Tea_ moderately warms, and strengthens, the Bowels and Stomach."
_Gulielmus Leyl_, a Native of _Denmark_, after his Return from the _East Indies_, at my Request, courteously wrote me the following Particulars with respect to _Tea_: "I was informed by the _Chinese_, in the Islands of _Java_, _Macascar_, _Celebes_, and other Places, that the _Cha_, or _Thee_, grew in _China_ and _Cathaya_; but that the best came from _Cathaya_, a Country belonging to the _Tartars_. The Herb is, in the _Chinese_, _Japonese_, _Tartarian_, _Persian_, _Arabic_, _Turkish_, and _Indostan_ Languages, called _Cha_; in the Pronunciation of which Word, it is to be observed, that the _Ch_ is sounded as it is in _Spain_ and _England_; but is by the _Persians_, _Arabians_, and _Turks_, expressed by one of their own Characters. By such of the _Chinese_ as border upon the Sea it is called _The_. In these Countries, vast Sums of Money are laid out upon this Herb, which is said to be possessed of very considerable Virtues; for it corroborates the Stomach, and produces a good Digestion; nourishes the Limbs, and dissipates and carries off by Urine, or otherwise, all peccant and redundant Humidity. It also cures the Gout, and prevents, or expels the Stone and Gravel. During my Residence, for many Years there, I never had the smallest Symptoms of the Gout, with which I have been violently afflicted since my Return into _Europe_. The _Chinese_ are also Strangers to the Stone, and their _Tea_ not only preserves the Body in good Health, but also removes Intoxication. It prevents Sleep, and renders Persons alert and chearful in the Dispatch of Business. The Water prepared of this Herb, is to be drank in a Morning fasting, with preserved Ginger, as also after Dinner, between Meals, after Supper, or at any Time, since the frequent Use of it is not hurtful. They boil a Pint of Water in a Pot, then put a Spoonful of _Tea_ into it, and cover it close up for a Quarter of an Hour, during which Time they shake it frequently. Those to whom this Liquor is disagreeable, on account of its bitter Taste, put Sugar-Candy into the Cup; but, its Efficacy is greater, when drank without it. The People of Fashion in _China_ and _Japan_, have their particular Kettles, in which they boil the Water by itself, and then pour it upon the _Tea_ in another Vessel, which they cover for a Quarter of an Hour, shaking it frequently."