CHAPTER I.--FROM LUZ TO BAGNÈRES-DE-BIGORRE...389
“ II.--BAGNÈRES-DE-BIGORRE..............412
“ III.--THE PEOPLE......................420
“ IV--THE ROAD TO BAGNÈRES-DE-LUCHON....468
“ V--LUCHON.............................485
“ VI.--TOULOUSE.........................509
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
THE PINES.....................................003
THE RIVER AFTER A STORM.......................005
THE PINES NEAR ROYAN..........................007
THE BROAD RIVER...............................009
BORDEAUX......................................010
TAIL-PIECE....................................011
LES LANDES....................................012
LES LANDES (SECOND VIEW)......................014
TAIL-PIECE....................................016
A STREET IN BAYONNE...........................017
BAYONNE HARBOR................................019
PÉ DE PUYANE..................................022
THE BURNING CASTLE............................025
HEAD-PIECE....................................035
THE PIERCED ROCK..............................036
TAIL-PIECE....................................039
THE VILLA EUGENIE.............................040
CLIFFS NEAR SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ.................042
COAST NEAR SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ..................045
TAIL-PIECE....................................046
LOUIS XIV. AND ANNE OF AUSTRIA................047
THE POLITENESS OF TO-DAY......................048
THE POLITENESS OF OTHER DAYS..................049
“JE VOUS LE RENDS.”...........................053
A SPLENDID CREATION...........................054
DAX...........................................057
DAX (SECOND VIEW).............................059
CASTLE OF ORTHEZ..............................061
FROISSART.....................................062
A HOME OF LEGENDS.............................063
“THAT STOUT CORNIFIC DOCTOR”..................066
COUNT DE FOIX AT SUPPER.......................068
THE COUNT DE FOIX’S HOSPITALITY...............071
A FRENCH “CONDUCTOR”..........................072
“FOR HEAVEN’S SAKE DO NOT KILL GASTON”........074
GASTON IN THE TOWER OF ORTHEZ.................076
COUNT DE FOIX.................................077
TAILPIECE.....................................078
CHAPTER-HEADING...............................079
THE VALLEY OF OSSAU...........................082
A DESTRUCTION OK SENTIMENT....................084
AVENUE OF THE CHATEAU AT PAU..................085
ARMS OF HENRY IV..............................087
COURT OF THE CHATEAU AT PAU...................088
PAU...........................................090
JEANNE D’ALBRET...............................092
A MORNING’S SPORT.............................094
IN THE STREETS Of EAUSE.......................097
SULLY.........................................100
MARGUERITE OK NAVARRE.........................104
ENTERTAINING THE LADIES.......................106
THE PARK AT PAU...............................108
PROTRACTING A REVERIE.........................109
PIC DU MIDI OSSAU.............................111
AN EXHORTATION................................113
NEAR GAN......................................114
THE VALLEY OK OSSAU...........................115
ROAD TO EAUX BONNES...........................116
THE PROMENADE.................................117
NEAR EAUX BONNES..............................118
A RAINY DAY AT EAUX BONNES....................119
TAKING THE WATERS.............................121
TAKING THE WATERS (SECOND VIEW)...............122
“MUSIC HAITI CHARMS”..........................123
A NATIVE GENIUS...............................125
DOLCE FAR NIENTE.............................126
OUR AMATEURS..................................127
THE BEECHES...................................128
THE SUMMIT OF THE GER.........................131
TAIL-PIECE....................................133
THE ART OK PLEASURE...........................134
THE “JEU DU CANARD”...........................135
PLEASURE WITHOUT THE ART......................137
“A LANDSCAPE”.................................138
EXCELSIOR.....................................139
THE VALENTIN FALLS AT DISCOO..................140
CASCADE OF THE VALENTIN.......................142
PATH TO THE GORGE OF THE SERPENT..............144
THE GAVE......................................146
A DISTANT TALE................................148
SOLITUDE......................................150
A WATER POWER.................................152
THE MIGHTY STREAM.............................155
‘PAPI’........................................157
A TOO DISTANT LANDSCAPE.......................159
A VANTAGE-POINT...............................161
THE PEAKS.....................................163
ABOVE GABAS...................................166
“TO HIM WHO, IN LOVE OF NATURE”...............168
AMONG THE CLOUDS..............................169
ROUTE TO EAUX CHAUDES.........................170
ON THE ROAD TO EAUX CHAUDES...................172
“A WILD AND SUNNY NEST”.......................174
“COLD AND SAD”................................175
NEAR EAUX CHAUDES.............................177
“EGYPT BEFORE THE COMING OF WARRIORS”.........182
SOMEBODY’S JOVE...............................185
THE INHABITANTS...............................186
FIDDLERS THREE................................187
“A SORT OF ROUNDELAY”.........................189
“THEY CLUMSILY BENT THE KNEE”.................192
“FIVE OR SIX OLD WOMEN”.......................194
THE PEAK OF THE GER...........................196
MEETING A LADY................................200
A STOCK-DEALER................................200
YOUR OBEDIENT SERVANT.........................201
DISINTERESTED HOSPITALITY.....................201
AN AMATEUR SKETCH.............................203
THE DEATH OF ROLAND...........................206
“A WELL-TO-DO PEASANT”........................207
CHIVALRIC WAR.................................209
SCIENTIFIC WAR................................209
THE BATTLE OF RONCEVAUX.......................212
“WHEN FIGHTING IS TO BE DONE”.................214
HENRY OF BEARN................................215
“AT THE HEAD OF THE ARMY”.....................217
“VERY DARING”.................................219
MLLE. DE SÉGUR................................220
GASSION’S BOB-TAIL............................222
ON THE WAY TO LUZ.............................225
A SMILING COUNTRY.............................226
“WHAT WE ALL HEARD THIS NIGHT”.-..............228
ORTHON’S TRANSFORMATION.......................234
LETTING THE DOGS LOOSE........................235
“THE RACE OF FAMILIARS AND FAIRIES”...........237
A BROODING SUPERSTITION,......................238
CHAPEL OF LESTELLE............................240
NEAR LOURDES..................................242
GORGE OF PIERREFITTE..........................244
“HEAVY CLOUDS ROSE IN THE SKY”................248
THE GORGE OPENED UP...........................249
OLD HOUSE OF THE TEMPLARS AT LUZ..............250
RUIN OF A CHATEAU NEAR LUZ....................253
MAX GETS FROM THE DESERT AS MUCH AS HE CAN....257
THE VALLEY OF LUZ.............................259
PROGRESS......................................261
SAINT-PIERRE..................................263
“THIS HEIGHT IS A DESERT”.....................264
“NO ONE COMES”................................265
THE MEDIAEVAL TOURISTS........................266
SAINT-SAUVEUR.................................267
THE GAVE AT SUNSET............................272
RUNNING WATERS................................274
“THE POPLARS RISE ONE ABOVE ANOTHER”..........275
BAREGES.......................................277
THE MILITARY HOSPITAL.........................278
TAIL-PIECE....................................279
THE MRS.......................................283
“OUT FROM THE CIVIL WARS”.....................287
“THESE OLD WASTED MOUNTAINS”..................288
MADAME DE MAINTENON...........................289
A FEW BLANDISHMENTS...........................290
THE PATIENTS OF THE OLDEN TIME................291
THE LAKE OF GAUBE.............................293
DIANA.........................................295
NEAR PONT D’ESPAGNE...........................299
STORM AT CAUTERETS............................302
VALLEY OF THE GAVE IN A STORM.................304
NEAR THE LAKE OF GAUISE.......................307
CAUTERET’S....................................311
THE FOAMING GAVE..............................313
HENRY IV AND FRANCIS I........................314
A FRESHETT IN THE MOUNTAINS..................315
“A HORRIBLE WORLD”............................316
ABBEY OF SAINT-SAVIN..........................318
CASCADE OF CERLSEY, NEAR PONT D’ESPAGNE.......320
PRAYER........................................325
ENJOYING HIE SCENERY..........................326
A MOUNTAIN FUNERAL............................328
BRIDGE AT SCIA................................330
VILLAGE OF GEDRES.............................333
CHAOS.........................................337
“THE TUMBLED ROCKS”...........................339
SIECHEUR......................................342
THE MOUNTAIN SIDE.............................343
THE FRECHE DE ROLAND..........................344
THE AMPHITHEATRE NEAR GAVARNIE................346
“THE THIRTEENTH CASCADE ON THE LEFT”..........347
THE CASCADE AS SEEN FROM THE INN..............349
RECIPROCITY...................................351
THE APPRECIATIVE..............................352
ASCENT OF THE BERGONZ.........................354
THE EAGLES....................................355
MONT PERDU....................................359
AN EARLY INHABITANT...........................362
SCENERY DURING AN ASCENT......................365
“ALLEZ DOUCEMENT; ALLEZ TOUJOURS”.............366
A STIMULATING DREAM...........................367
THE PINES.....................................369
A SHOWER IN A FOREST OF BRUSH-FIRS............373
CONTEMPLATION.................................376
A POOR DANCER.................................377
“THE ISARD DWELLS ABOVE THE BEAR”.............378
AN ARGUMENT...................................379
A HERD OF GOATS...............................381
“THE HAPPIEST ANIMAL IN CREATION”.............383
DISTINGUISHED NATIVES.........................386
IN MOUNT CAMPANA..............................389
DE BÉNAC IN EGYPT.............................390
“THEY TRAVERSED A WALL OF CLOUDS”.............395
“MORNING DAWNED”..............................396
“THE HALL WAS FULL”...........................398
“STRANGE IMAGES ROSE IN HIS BRAIN”...........400
BÉNAC A HERMIT................................403
BEYOND LOURDES................................404
CITY OF TORBES................................406
MEPHISTOPHELES................................411
BAGNÈRES DE-BIGORRE...........................412
ONE OF THE FIRST PATRONS......................419
SOCIETY.......................................420
AN OLD CAMPAIGNER.............................422
A YOUNG CAMPAIGNER............................422
A MAN OF PEACE................................422
A MODEL MAN...................................423
IN DANGER.............................:.......424
VARIOUS TOURISTS..............................428
THE LAC D’OO..................................431
TOURISTS COMME IL FAUT........................434
FAMILY TOURISTS...............................435
DINING TOURISTS...............................436
LEARNED TOURISTS..............................438
A MAN OF ESPRIT...............................444
CONNOISSEURS..................................446
BEETHOVEN.....................................447
A SERENADER...................................454
A HISTORIAN...................................456
A PROFESSIONAL CHARACTER......................458
THE PLEASURES OF WINTER.......................461
A DISCUSSION WITHIN BOUNDS....................463
HEAVEN........................................464
THE SOURCE OF THINGS..........................466
GRACE AT MEAT.................................467
THE REST OF THE WEARY.........................468
AT THE HOTEL OF THE GREAT SUN.................470
NEAR LUCHON...................................473
CHAPELLE AND LACHAUMONT.......................476
VALLEY OF LUCHON..............................481
URBS IN REVRE.................................484
HEAD-PIECE....................................485
A TALENTED FAMILY.............................487
LUCHON........................................491
BAGNERES......................................493
“ALL WAS IN HARMONY”..........................495
NEAR CASTEL-VIEIL.............................497
RUINS OF CASTEL-VIEIL.........................499
THE MALADETTA.................................503
“THESE MOUNTAIN SKELETONS”....................505
“A CLEFT IN THE ETERNAL ROCK”.................507
TAIL-PIECE....................................508
HEAD-PIECE....................................509
ST. BERTRAND DE COMINGES......................510
TOULOUSE......................................512
SAINT SERININE AT TOULOUSE....................515
CHURCH OF ST. ETIENNE, TOULOUSE...............519
THE MUSEUM AT TOULOUSE........................521
DATUR HORA QUIETI.............................523
TO MARCELIN.
(EMILE PLANAT.)
This, my dear Marcelin, is a trip to the Pyrenees; I have been there, and that is a praiseworthy circumstance; many writers, including some of the longest-winded, have described these scenes without leaving home.
And yet I have serious shortcomings to confess, and am deeply humbled thereat. I have not been the first to scale any inaccessible mountain; I have broken neither leg nor arm; I have not been eaten by the bears; I have neither saved any English heiress from being swept away by the Gave, nor yet have I married one; I have not been present at a single duel; my experiences include no tragic encounter with brigands or smugglers. I have walked much, and talked a little, and now I recount the pleasures of my eyes and ears. What sort of a man can he be who comes home from a long absence bringing all his limbs with him, is not the least in the world a hero, and yet does not blush to confess it? In this book I have talked as if with thee. There is a Marcelin whom the public knows, a shrewd critic, a caustic wit, the lover and delineator of every worldly elegance; there is another Marcelin, known to but three or four, a learned and thoughtful man. If there are any good ideas in this work, half of them belong to him; to him, then, I restore them.
H. TAINE.