Part 10
the walls of its beautiful porch abandoned to the bill-poster, and its steps and floor to the village children. All the way up this white road there are ancient bits of masonry utilised in modern building, and many other evidences of the Roman occupation. Here, by the roadside, there is a curious deep well, with the mouth protected by four great slabs of stone set on end forming a rough but solid parapet; a tall stone stands up on end beside the others, and through a hole in it a branch of a tree is thrust, from which is suspended the pulley-wheel and rope to lower the bucket into the waters below. Two great troughs carved out of solid stone lie by the side ready for use as washtubs. They look like tombs from the Alyscamps at Arles, or possibly some other ancient burial-ground. Who can say?
All the little homesteads have small patios in front or at the sides of them; vines trail up the columns that support the lean-to roofs, columns that are either of Roman workmanship or imitations, but the ancient character is well preserved. About a mile up this road are two monuments of the earliest Roman time; grey as the hills that form a background to them, delicate in contrast to nature’s rugged sculptures, they are memorials of the skill of hands whose work was finished two thousand years ago. The sculptors have been lavish of their time and talents, and although the freshness of their delicate and bold carvings has worn off, time has softened and mellowed them, even as it does a refined or noble human face. The smaller monument is a specimen of a triumphal arch, much damaged, but what remains is more beautiful in its proportions and simplicity than many of the larger triumphal arches found in Provence.
The other monument, the tomb of the Julii, has an inscription on the architrave of the second story,--SEX. L. M. JULIEI. C. F. PARENTIBUS. SUEIS. which translated means that the monument was raised to the memory of their parents by Sextus, Lucius, and Marcus Julii, the sons of Caius. It is a mausoleum of exquisite symmetry and distinction; on the square base two bas-reliefs of battle and hunting scenes indicate that Caius was a warrior who was no less distinguished in the chase than on the battle-field. The second story is a square turret which has four niches, and is enriched with fluted columns at each corner; the entablature above is embellished with mouldings and ornament and surmounted by a small circular turret, with ten fluted Corinthian columns, inside of which are two statues wanting the heads. The amount of well-considered ornament lavished upon these memorials, one of victories accomplished, the other of the highly honoured dead, is an eloquent tribute to the sentiments that animated the Romans as well as to the distinction and skill of their artists.
These two solitary monuments are all that remain of the ancient city, but they stand steadfast at the foot of the rugged hills, the faithful sentinels of a vanished empire. Far removed from the busy life of cities to-day, they have known in the past the pressure of the multitude and the noisy hum of humankind, for the ancient town nestled around them on all sides.
How it happened that the Visigoths, who in the fifth century destroyed the Roman city, allowed the arch to remain, is one of those puzzles that never will be solved; for on the two sides of the triumphal arch their ancestors are represented as captives led in chains. Works of art, precious and beautiful, had no influence to stay their devastating hand; culture made no appeal to their rugged natures, for in their rage against their persecuting masters they razed to the ground works of fine art and beauty that were the pride and glory of the greatest Empire the world has ever seen.
INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS
Alyscamps at Arles, Tombs in the, 176, 203
ARLES, 213; The Town Hall, 177; The Arena, 179; Type, 188; The Roman Theatre, 194, 204; Greek Type, 197; In a Café, 200; St. Honorat, 205; Constantine’s Palace, 208; The Alyscamps, 203; Doorway, 209; A Well, 214; Woman of, 240
Augustus, Gate of, Nîmes, 237
AVIGNON, _Frontispiece_; Papal Palace, 14, 27, 43; A Tiny Homestead, 17; A Farmhouse near, 19; Pont St. Benezet, 32, 34; Ramparts, 36; A Countryman, 39; The Palace of the Popes, 49; Types, 59, 66, 69; St. Didimus, 61
BAUX, LES, 128; The Castle, 129; The Pavilion of Queen Jeanne, 141; The Church, 145; The Mansion of the Manvilles, 147; A Window at, 149; The Postern, 116, 155
CARPENTRAS, Street Steps in, 64; Cathedral of St. Siffrein, 267; Notre Dame, 268; The Porte de Orange, 269; The Arch, 271
Carrée, The Maison, Nîmes, 225
Cathedral, Avignon, 27; Nîmes, 243; St. Siffrein, 267
CHARTREUSE, Gateway of Monastery, 89; The Fountain in the Cloisters, 91
CLANUM, A Well near, 278; The Trumphal Arch and Tomb at, 281
Constantine’s Palace, Arles, 208
Daudet’s Windmill, Les Baux, 135
Diana, The Ruined Temple of, Nîmes, 233
Jeanne, The Pavilion of Queen, Les Baux, 141
Julii, Tomb of the, 279
Magne, The Tour, Nîmes, 239
Manvilles, The Mansion of the, Les Baux, 147
MONTMAJOUR, 144, 163, 171; On the Road to, 153; Chapel of Ste. Croix-en-Jerusalem, 160; The Monastery, 166, 169
NÎMES, Arches of the Arena, 181; Arena, 185, 229; Arcade, 191; Street in, 220; Roasting at, 221; The Maison Carrée, 225; A Shoeblack at, 227; The Venus of, 231; The Ruined Temple of Diana, 233; Holy Orders, 236; Gate of Augustus, 237; The Tour Magne, 239; Frieze of 12th Century on the Cathedral, 240
Nostradamus, Fountain to, 273
ORANGE, 45; An Old Courtyard, 23; The Arch at, 254; The Town Hall, 255; Old Houses at, 257; The Theatre, 259, 261; The Protestant Church, 263; The Porte de Orange, Carpentras, 269; In a Café, 282
Palace of the Popes, The, Avignon, 49
Papal Palace from the River, Avignon, 14, 27, 43; The Silver Bell, 53; Front Entrance to, 57
Philip the Fair, Tower of, Villeneuve, 77; Window-seat in the, 82
Pied de Sanglier, The, 223
Pont-du-Gard, 249; An Old Water-mill near the, 247
Remoulins, 246
Renard, Church at Château, 133; A Street in, 137
René Castle, King, 103, 107
Rhone, 71, 72; Boats on the, 71
St. André, Fort, 83
St. Benezet, Avignon, Interior of Chapel of, 48
St. Benezet, Pont, 32, 34
Ste. Croix-en-Jerusalem, Chapel of, 160
St. Didimus, Avignon, 61
St. Honorat, Arles, 205
St. Martha’s, Tarascon, 113
St. Remy, Fountain to Nostradamus at, 273; Our Lady of Pity, 277
St. Siffrein, Cathedral of, 267
“Tarasc,” The, 119
TARASCON, A Gateway, 80, 99; A Bar in, 101; An Old Garden in, 109; St. Marthas, 113; A Street in, 121
Ventoux from Carpentras, Mount, 15
VILLENEUVE, Tower of Philip the Fair, 77, 82; A Hill-top, 79; A Street in, 85
INDEX
Agrippa, 220
Agrippa, Marcus Vispanius, 223
Ahenobarbus, Domitius, 256
Aix, 117
Albi, 38
Alix, Princess, 153
Alphonse of Aragon, Duke, 102
Alpilles, Les (Little Alps), 127
Alyscamps, The, 202
Amphitheatre of Arles, 180
Andrew, son of Carobert, King of Hungary, 21, 22
Arausio, 258
Arles, 175; legend of the betrothal feast given by King Nannos, 176; amphitheatre built, 179; discovery of the Venus of Arles, 183; removal of the town from the arena, 188; gladiators encouraged by Julius Cæsar, 190; restoring of the ruined theatre, 194; theatres of the Greeks, 195; tombs found in the Alyscamps, 198; inscriptions on tombs, 199; tomb of Julia Tyrannia, 199; rebuilding of the Church of St. Honorat, 203; the Cathedral of St. Trophimus built in the twelfth century, 206; the monster “Tarasque,” 207; the combining of Pagan and Christian arts and religions, 208; obelisk found in the ancient Roman circus, 211; the Place du Forum, 212; Mistral the poet, 213, 214
Arnaud, 140
Auguste, Porte d’, 237
Avignon (City of the Popes), or Avenio, 13; “Babylonish Captivity,” the, 15; threatened by Romans, 24; Roman monuments, 25; setting up of a Republic, 26; paintings and frescoes, 29; legend of the Bridge of Avignon, 34, 35; siege in 1226, 37; conflict of the faiths, 38; Raymond humiliated, 39; re-excommunication of Raymond, 40; work of restoration, 44; restoration of paintings of the fourteenth century, 48; restoration of pictures, sculpture, and buildings, 49, 50, 51; main door to chapel unearthed, 51; soldiers sent by Charles V. to drive Pierre de Luna from the place, 56; fortress stormed by King’s troops, 57; gunpowder treason, 58; massacre in the Glacière, 59, 63; the White Terror of 1815, 64; revolutionists of the South, 62; garrison of the Republicans shot down by Royalist Volunteers, 63; Marshal Brune shot, 65; Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, 71
Barthelasse, 31, 72
Baux, Les, 127; the approach over Les Alpilles, 127; canal dug across La Crau, 130; restoration of the Château in 1444, 133; Langue d’Oc, or Provençal, used until well on into the fifteenth century, 134; romance of a Jongleur, 136; Court of Queen Jeanne, where women were judges, 141; Guillaume de
Cabestan slain by Raymond, 144; excavations made in crypt of the Church of St. Vincent, 145; origin of the name of Porcelets, 151; Grotto of the Fairies, 152; two relics of the Roman times, 254
Baux, Des, 131
Baux, Raymond de, Prince of Orange, 255
Beaucaire, Count, 111
Belvezet, Our Lady of, 87
Benedict XI., 18
Benedict XII., 43
Benedict XIII. (Pierre de Luna), 56, 266
Bérengère, Princess, 142
Bernas, Jacques, 269
Bertrand de Goth, d’Agoust, Archbishop of Bordeaux, 18
Boucicaut, Marshal, 56
Brune, Marshal, 65
Cabestan, Guillaume de, 142, 144
Cæsar, Julius, 257
Caius, 224, 280
Calvert Museum, 25
Camargue, La, 202
Carpentras, 63, 265
Cavalier Mountain, 219
Charlemagne, 160
Charles I. of Anjou, 21
Charles VI., 237
Charles IX., 204
Chevaliers, Hall of the, 83
Choisi, General, 60
Claud, Archbishop of Turin, 37
Claud II., 150
Clement V., 18, 21, 265
Clement VI., 22, 43, 55
Coupetête, Jourdain, 59
Crau, La, 128, 130
“Crucifixion,” 52
Daniel, 140
Daudet, 97
Diana, Temple of, 235
Durazzo, Charles, Duke of, 24
Église de l’Observance, 270
Escuyer, L’, 60
Fairies, Grotto of the, 152
Feuchiers, Boulevard, 245
Flouquet, 140
Forum, Place du, 215
Garde Robe, 48
Geoffrey VI., 168
Glanum Livii, 275
Gregory XI., 56
Grottes, Rue des, Avignon, 25
Henry IV., 240
“Holy Cross,” Chapel of the, 159, 162
Innocent III., Pope, 38
Innocent VI., 88
Joanna, 21, 23
John XXII., Pope (Jacques d’Euse), 30
Jongleurs, 136
Jourdain (Coupetête), 59, 60
Julii, 280
Languedoc, 88
Lapidaire, Musée, 232
“Last Judgment,” 52
Laval, Jean de, 133
Leibulfe, Count, 132
Louis of Hungary, 22
Louis XI., 123
Louis XIV., 225, 259
Louis XVI., 164
Lucius, 224
Massilia (Marseilles), 175
Manvilles, Hôtel de, 150
Maries, Les, 154
Marius, 257
Martel, Charles, 160, 229
Mignard, 268
Monaco, Hôtel, or Monte Carlo, Hôtel de, 146
Montmajour, 159; dedication of the Chapel of the Holy Cross by Charlemagne, 159; outbreak of the Revolution, 164; Confessional of St. Trophimus, 165; customary offering of sturgeon to Geoffrey VI., 168; Benedictine Monastery of, 171; legend of the foundation of the Monastery, 172
Montmorency, Château de, 105
Nannos, King (Nan), 176
Napoleon, 225
Nero, Claudius Tiberius, 179
Nicolète, 110
Nîmes (Nemausus), 219; the Celtic tribe conquered by the Romans, 220; baths built in the first century, 220; coins “pied du sanglier,” 222; building of Pont du Gard, 223; the great Arena erected, 224; the Maison Carrée built during the first years of Christian era, 224; Arthur Young’s description of the Maison Carrée, 226; building of town in Arena, 229; description of the Temple of Diana, 235; Tour Magne 350 feet above sea-level, 238; legend of Golden Cock, 239; customs of the evolutionary South, 245; legend of the Pont du Gard, 249
Nostradamus, 239, 275
Notre Dame des Doms, the Cathedral of, 26
Octavius, 257
Octavius, Augustus, 223
Orange, Princes of, 259
Orange, 253; the Triumphal Arch, an important monument of Roman times, 253; theories as to the origin of the Triumphal Arch, 256; stupendous wall forming back of the proscenium of Roman theatre, 259, 260; Princes of Orange converted theatre into fortress, 261; two rival Popes tried and deposed, 267; ancient bits of masonry utilised in modern buildings, 278; tomb of the Julii, 280
Orgon, 275
Palace of the Popes, 26, 44
Papal Palace, 67
Papal Throne, 29
Parrocel, 268
Penitents, Black, 62
Penitents, White, 62
Périgueux, Bishop of, 124
Peter of Castelnau, 38
Petrarch, 15
Philip the Fair of France, 16
Philippe, Louis, 89
Phoceans, 24
Pierre de Luna, 83
Pity, Our Lady of, 277
Pius, Antoninus, 224
Place Fortin, 146
Pointre, 65
Pontiff, 30
Porcelets, 150
“Prophets, The,” 52
Rambert, Abbé, 161, 166
Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse, 38
Remoulins, 246
René, Château, 98, 111
René, King (King of Naples), 100, 116, 133
Rhone Valley, 14
Richard Cœur de Lion, 140
Rioni, 67
Rocher des Doms, 31
Rock of the Doms, 26
Sacrovir, Julius, 258
St. André, Fort, 82
St. André, Fortress, 84
St. Anne, Church of, 197
St. Anthony, 90
St. Baudile, 241
St. Benezet, Bridge of, 31, 56
St. Castor, 241
St. Etienne, Church of, 203
St. Francis d’Assisi, 120
St. Fronto, 124
St. Honorat, Church of, 203
St. Martha, 28, 117
St. Martha, Church of, 115
St. Martial, Chapel of, 47
St. Paul, 241
St. Perpetué, 241
St. Pierre, Place, 25
St. Remy, 127, 276
St. Roland, Tower of, 193
St. Ruf, 28, 36
St. Trophimus, Church of, 199
Salle Brulle, 58
Salle du Garde, 108
Sebastiani, Colonel, 48
Septimus Severus, Arch of, 254
Seville, Archbishop of, 58
Suetonius, 256
Tarascon, 97; the famous Tartarin penned by Daudet banned, 98; King René involved in a series of complications, 100; marriage of King René’s daughter, 103; description of interior of Castle, 106; the story of Aucassin and Nicolète, 108; legend of the Tarasc, 115; King René’s vision, 116; St. Martha’s triumph over the Tarasc, 118; pageant prohibited in 1904, 119; reproduction of the reliquary given up in the starvation times of the great Revolution, 123
“Tarasque,” 118
Tartarin and Tarascon, 97
Theodoric, King, 189
Tiberius, 258
Toledo, Archbishop of, 58
Toulouse, 40
Trucat, 239
Turenne, Countess of, 24
Tyrannia, Julia, 199
Uzès, Duchesse d’, 228
Valdenses (Albigenses), 37
Valence, Count de, 109
Valfenier, de, 93
Vandemont, Count, 102
Vanloo, 120
Ventoux, Mount, 112
Venus of Arles, The, 183
Vidal, 140
Villegis, King, 172
Villeneuve, 31; approach to the town, 75; battlements of fortresses and castles, 75; stone seat, 81; indication of prisoners’ thoughts, 84; the Monastery of the Chartreuse founded by Innocent VI., 88; Monastery of Chartreuse destroyed by lightning, 93
Ville, Hôtel de, Orange, 262, 272
Visigoths, The, 229, 282
Voltaire, Rue, 184
Young, Arthur, 225
_Printed by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury._