Category: Travel Writing

A tour through Holland

A Confession: the war: an adoption: confidence in fortune sometimes necessary: hateful character of a spy: a motive for travelling: a moral: anecdote of a royal description: miseries of a Dutch galliot: Calvin and Servetus: religion and a rope’s end: Dutch anecdote of fortitud...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I.

A Confession: the war: an adoption: confidence in fortune sometimes necessary: hateful character of a spy: a motive for travelling: a moral: anecdote of a royal description: mis...

2. CHAPTER II.

The boompies: Bayle: prerogatives of genius: Spanish inscriptions: a Dutch dinner: Dutch beggars: a good bargain: anecdotes of some members of the Batavian executive body: anecd...

3. CHAPTER III.

Commission countenances: physiognomies compared: homage paid to genius: Erasmus’s statue: inscription: revolutionary whims: learned gallantry: kisses: anecdotes of Erasmus: cath...

4. CHAPTER IV.

The coins: practice of vails-giving in Holland: fruit and vegetable sellers: Dutch passion for scrubbing and mopping: whimsical sarcasm of a traveller: singular offence offered...

5. CHAPTER V.

Licensed brothels; remark upon them: Dutch literary meeting described: spitting pots: pipes, Dutch extravagant in them; smoking; historical anecdote of tobacco: general temperan...

6. CHAPTER VI.

Dexterity of boatmen: Overchie: Dutch gingerbread: a French saying: Delft china: Delft: Dutchman’s remark on the war: new church: anecdote of Grotius: affectionate stratagem: Gr...

7. CHAPTER VII.

Spirited remonstrance: anecdote of a regicide: interesting anecdote of Frank Hals and Vandyke: a Dutch Bloomfield: delightful passage to the Hague: Dutch discussion of Desdemona...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

Remarks on the last Stadtholder; also on the Princess of Orange; her presumption and indiscretion: hatred of the Dutch to the House of Orange: Fête at the Hague on the flight of...

9. CHAPTER IX.

Grand entry of King and Queen into Holland: opening of the meeting of their High Mightinesses: anecdote of royal economy: the Hague described: Lady W. Montagu’s remarks rebutted...

10. CHAPTER X.

Historical anecdote of Scheveling: anecdote of Lord Nelson: a marine scene. Passion of Dutch for flowers not subsided. Veneration of Dutch for storks: causes of it: quails and s...

11. CHAPTER XI.

Vegetable problems. Approach to Leyden: general description of that town: the town-hall: celebrated picture of Lucas Van Leyden; anecdote of that painter: also of Karel de Moor:...

12. CHAPTER XII.

The botanic garden: the celebrated ancient palm: busts and statues: theatre of anatomy: library and portraits of distinguished persons: museum of natural history: attractions of...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

The press of Leyden; its staple trade: anecdotes of Gerard Douw: of Jean Steen; his singular painting of the Deluge: anecdotes of Francis Mieres: the pictorial contest: anecdote...

14. CHAPTER XIV.

Anecdotes of Lawrence Coster: art of printing how discovered; its originality disputed: female fortitude and presence of mind: siege of Haarlem: heroic conduct of the women: bri...

15. CHAPTER XV.

Dungeons in the stadt-house: treatment of the prisoners: hall of justice: the torture: criminal trials: capital punishment: anecdote of a malefactor: the bank; its former and pr...

16. CHAPTER XVI.

Police: fires: laws relating to debtors; ditto to bankrupts: the aanspreekers: singular custom: the trokenkorb: the streets: insalubrity of stagnant canals: societies for recove...

17. CHAPTER XVII.

Former commerce of the Dutch: Batavia: anecdotes of national frugality: exchange and banking business: commercial house of Messrs. Hope: Jew fruit-sellers: marine school: the ra...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

The Dutch theatre: theatrical traffic: the rondell: singular village of Brock: Saardam: cottage of Peter the Great: climate, divisions, and population of Holland: journey to Zey...

19. CHAPTER XIX.

The mall of Utrecht: a gasconade: the Rhine: conquest of Utrecht: the cathedral: beautiful lines: anecdotes of distinguished persons born at Utrecht; the ancient inhabitants: a...

20. CHAPTER XX.

Dusseldorf described; its inhabitants; the grand ducal court: anecdote of Murat: a double entendre: the flying bridge: Cologne: a contraband peep: the cathedral: a collection of...

21. CHAPTER XXI.

22. CHAPTER XXII.

Imperial regulation necessary to be known: the director of the bureau des diligences par eau: singular adventure: a scrape: a stratagem: passage to Bonn: a discovery: excellent...

23. CHAPTER XXIII.

Basalt mountains: Andernach: anecdote of General Hoche: Rhenish floats: singular accident: French police: Neuweid: the Rhine boat: tomb of General Marceau: anecdote of French he...

24. CHAPTER XXIV.

The young conscript: singular French anecdote: St. Goar; its history: Oberwesel: the palatinate: a celebrated vineyard: a regale: Bacharach: Bacchus: the Rhyngau song: Rüdesheim...

25. CHAPTER XXV.

Biberich: Charlemagne’s palace: bridge of boats: Mayence: horrors of war: the art of printing: the Hockheim hills: remarks on old hock: the tooth-brush: Francfort: splendid tabl...

26. CHAPTER XXVI.

Beautiful village of Offenbach: bravery of the Hessians: anecdotes of Mareschal Augerau. Excursion to Darmstadt: minute-posts: Darmstadt: law’s delay in Germany: agreeable manne...

27. CHAPTER I.

A CONFESSION ... THE WAR ... AN ADOPTION ... CONFIDENCE IN FORTUNE SOMETIMES NECESSARY ... HATEFUL CHARACTER OF A SPY ... A MOTIVE FOR TRAVELLING ... A MORAL ... ANECDOTE OF A R...

28. CHAPTER II.

THE BOOMPIES ... BAYLE ... PREROGATIVES OF GENIUS ... SPANISH INSCRIPTIONS ... A DUTCH DINNER ... DUTCH BEGGARS ... A GOOD BARGAIN ... ANECDOTES OF SOME MEMBERS OF THE BATAVIAN...

29. CHAPTER III.

COMMISSION COUNTENANCES ... PHYSIOGNOMIES COMPARED ... HOMAGE PAID TO GENIUS ... ERASMUS’S STATUE ... INSCRIPTION ... REVOLUTIONARY WHIMS ... LEARNED GALLANTRY ... KISSES ... AN...

30. CHAPTER IV.

THE COINS ... PRACTICE OF VAILS-GIVING IN HOLLAND ... FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SELLERS ... DUTCH PASSION FOR SCRUBBING AND MOPPING ... WHIMSICAL SARCASM OF A TRAVELLER ... SINGULAR O...

31. CHAPTER V.

LICENSED BROTHELS ... REMARKS UPON THEM ... DUTCH LITERARY MEETING DESCRIBED ... SPITTING POTS ... PIPES, DUTCH EXTRAVAGANT IN THEM ... SMOKING ... HISTORICAL ANECDOTE OF TOBACC...

32. CHAPTER VI.

DEXTERITY OF BOATMEN ... OVERCHIE ... DUTCH GINGERBREAD ... A FRENCH SAYING ... DELFT CHINA ... DELFT ... DUTCHMAN’S REMARK ON THE WAR ... NEW CHURCH ... ANECDOTE OF GROTIUS ......

33. CHAPTER VII.

SPIRITED REMONSTRANCE ... ANECDOTE OF A REGICIDE ... INTERESTING ANECDOTE OF FRANK HALS AND VANDYKE ... A DUTCH BLOOMFIELD ... DELIGHTFUL PASSAGE TO THE HAGUE ... DUTCH DISCUSSI...

34. CHAPTER VIII.

REMARKS ON THE LAST STADTHOLDER ... ALSO ON THE PRINCESS OF ORANGE ... HER PRESUMPTION AND INDISCRETION ... HATRED OF THE DUTCH TO THE HOUSE OF ORANGE ... FETE AT THE HAGUE ON T...

35. CHAPTER IX.

GRAND ENTRY OF KING AND QUEEN INTO HOLLAND ... OPENING OF THE MEETING OF THEIR HIGH MIGHTINESSES ... ANECDOTE OF ROYAL ECONOMY ... THE HAGUE DESCRIBED ... LADY W. MONTAGU’S REMA...

36. CHAPTER X.

HISTORICAL ANECDOTE OF SCHEVELING ... ANECDOTE OF LORD NELSON ... A MARINE SCENE ... PASSION OF DUTCH FOR FLOWERS NOT SUBSIDED ... VENERATION OF DUTCH FOR STORKS ... CAUSES OF I...

37. CHAPTER XI.

VEGETABLE PROBLEMS ... APPROACH TO LEYDEN ... GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THAT TOWN ... THE TOWN-HALL ... CELEBRATED PICTURE OF LUCAS VAN LEYDEN ... ANECDOTE OF THAT PAINTER ... ALSO...

38. CHAPTER XII.

THE BOTANIC GARDEN ... THE CELEBRATED ANCIENT PALM ... BUSTS AND STATUES ... THEATRE OF ANATOMY ... LIBRARY AND PORTRAITS OF DISTINGUISHED PERSONS ... MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY...

39. CHAPTER XIII.

THE PRESS OF LEYDEN ... ITS STAPLE TRADE ... ANECDOTES OF GERARD DOUW ... OF JEAN STEEN ... HIS SINGULAR PAINTING OF THE DELUGE ... ANECDOTES OF FRANCIS MIERES ... THE PICTORIAL...

40. CHAPTER XIV.

ANECDOTES OF LAWRENCE COSTER ... ART OF PRINTING HOW DISCOVERED ... ITS ORIGINALITY DISPUTED ... FEMALE FORTITUDE AND PRESENCE OF MIND ... SIEGE OF HAARLEM ... HEROIC CONDUCT OF...

41. CHAPTER XV.

DUNGEONS IN THE STADT-HOUSE ... TREATMENT OF THE PRISONERS ... HALL OF JUSTICE ... THE TORTURE ... CRIMINAL TRIALS ... CAPITAL PUNISHMENT ... ANECDOTE OF A MALEFACTOR ... THE BA...

42. CHAPTER XVI.

POLICE ... FIRES ... LAWS RELATING TO DEBTORS ... DITTO TO BANKRUPTS ... THE AANSPREEKERS ... SINGULAR CUSTOM ... THE TROKENKORB ... THE STREETS ... INSALUBRITY OF STAGNANT CANA...

43. CHAPTER XVII.

FORMER COMMERCE OF THE DUTCH ... BATAVIA ... ANECDOTES OF NATIONAL FRUGALITY ... EXCHANGE AND BANKING BUSINESS ... COMMERCIAL HOUSE OF MESSRS. HOPE ... JEW FRUIT-SELLERS ... MAR...

44. CHAPTER XVIII.

THE DUTCH THEATRE ... THEATRICAL TRAFFIC ... THE RONDELL ... SINGULAR VILLAGE OF BROCK ... SAARDAM ... COTTAGE OF PETER THE GREAT ... CLIMATE, DIVISIONS, AND POPULATION OF HOLLA...

45. CHAPTER XIX.

THE MALL OF UTRECHT ... A GASCONADE ... THE RHINE ... CONQUEST OF UTRECHT ... THE CATHEDRAL ... BEAUTIFUL LINES ... ANECDOTES OF DISTINGUISHED PERSONS BORN AT UTRECHT ... THE AN...

46. CHAPTER XX.

DUSSELDORF DESCRIBED ... ITS INHABITANTS ... THE GRAND DUCAL COURT ... ANECDOTE OF MURAT ... A DOUBLE ENTENDRE ... THE FLYING BRIDGE ... COLOGNE ... A CONTRABAND PEEP ... THE CA...

47. CHAPTER XXI.

As I gazed upon these men, whose appearance was slovenly, I was lost in amazement, by reflecting that they were part of that military force which had made itself terrible to so...

48. CHAPTER XXII.

IMPERIAL REGULATION NECESSARY TO BE KNOWN ... THE DIRECTOR OF THE BUREAU DES DILIGENCES PAR EAU ... SINGULAR ADVENTURE ... A SCRAPE ... A STRATAGEM ... PASSAGE TO BONN ... A DIS...

49. CHAPTER XXIII.

BASALT MOUNTAINS ... ANDERNACH ... ANECDOTE OF GENERAL HOCHE ... RHENISH FLOATS ... SINGULAR ACCIDENT ... FRENCH POLICE ... NEUWEID ... THE RHINE BOAT ... TOMB OF GENERAL MARCEA...

50. CHAPTER XXIV.

THE YOUNG CONSCRIPT ... SINGULAR FRENCH ANECDOTE ... ST. GOAR ... ITS HISTORY ... OBERWESEL ... THE PALATINATE ... A CELEBRATED VINEYARD ... A REGALE ... BACHARACH ... BACCHUS ....

51. CHAPTER XXV.

BIBERICH ... CHARLEMAGNE’S PALACE ... BRIDGE OF BOATS ... MAYENCE ... HORRORS OF WAR ... THE ART OF PRINTING ... THE HOCKHEIM HILLS ... REMARKS ON OLD HOCK ... THE TOOTH-BRUSH ....

52. CHAPTER XXVI.

BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE OF OFFENBACH ... BRAVERY OF THE HESSIANS ... ANECDOTES OF MARESCHAL AUGERAU ... EXCURSION TO DARMSTADT ... MINUTE-POSTS ... DARMSTADT ... LAW’S DELAY IN GERMAN...