Chapter 3

Appendix, 26 pages. Pearls and Coral.

Bauer is exhaustive in his descriptions of the more important precious stones and he also describes briefly very many little known and little used gem minerals.

On forms of cutting he is old-fashioned.

First 68 pages given to explanation of characters used in identifying stones. Good.

On the Process of Cutting. Pages 79-87. Good account. More practical than most books give.

Careful accounts of occurrence of precious stones with maps.

Character of the occurrence of diamond in India, Brazil, and Africa, quite in detail.

The student who wishes to master the subject of gems cannot afford to neglect Bauer.

For those who read French, the latest, the most complete and thorough book on gems is Jean Escard's _Les Pierres Precieuses_, H. Dunod et E. Pinat, Paris, 1914.

It is a large and finely illustrated work.

The author has really outdone Bauer. The detail in regard to diamonds especially is very fine. Even the use of diamonds in mechanical ways is very completely gone into and also details in regard to cutting diamonds are very completely given. It is to be hoped that an English translation will soon become available.

Another large and thoroughgoing work is Gardner F. Williams' _The Diamond Mines of South Africa_, MacMillan, N. Y.

Dr. Geo. F. Kunz's _Gems and Precious Stones of North America_, The Sci. Pub. Co., N. Y., 1890, 336 pages, 8 colored plates (excellent ones too), many engravings, is a very complete account of all published finds of precious stones in the United States, Canada, and Mexico, giving a popular description of their value, history, archeology, and of the collections in which they exist, also a chapter on pearls and on remarkable foreign gems owned in the United States. Many rare and little known semi-precious stones are described here. Dr. Kunz is also the author of several more recent gem books notably _The Magic of Jewels and Charms_ and _The Curious Lore of Precious Stones_, Lippincott, Phila.

Among books on engraved gems is the old _Hand Book of Gem Engraving_ by C. W. King; Bell & Daldy, London, 1866, and one by Duffield Osborne; Henry Holt & Co., N. Y. Another book on this subject is _Engraved Gems_ by Maxwell Somerville; Drexel Biddle, Phila.

For those who wish still further references the following older works will prove interesting.

_Precious Stones_, by W. R. Cattelle; Lippincott, Phila. _Precious Stones_, by W. Goodchild; D. Van Nostrand & Co., N. Y.

Julius Wodiska, of New York, has also written an interesting work on precious stones, _A Book of Precious Stones_, Putnam's, 1907.

Still older works are _Precious Stones and Gems_ by Edwin W. Streeter; Chapman & Hall, London, 1877. This is a book of 264 pages with nine illustrations. It contains much of value and was unsurpassed in its day. Its first-hand accounts of numerous important, even celebrated diamonds and other precious stones will always make it valuable to the student of gems.

Another book by the same author is _The Great Diamonds of the World_; Geo. Bell & Sons, London, 1882; 321 pages. Not illustrated. Its title adequately describes its contents. It is an excellent work. The author even traveled in India tracing the history of some of the famous diamonds that he describes.

_Diamonds and Precious Stones_, by Louis Dieulafait published in its English translation by Scribner, Armstrong & Co., N. Y., 1874, is another old but interesting work. It has 292 pages and 126 engravings on wood. It gives a fine account of diamond cutting as practiced at that time. There is also an excellent history of the production of artificial precious stones to that date.

_The Natural History of Precious Stones and of the Precious Metals_ by C. W. King, M.A., Bell & Daldy, London, 1870, is rich in references to classical literature.

One or two interesting monographs on precious stones have been written and _The Tourmaline_, by Augustus C. Hamlin is one of these. Mr. Hamlin became interested in gems because of his accidental discovery of some of the fine tourmalines of Maine. His _Leisure Hours among the Gems_ is also very readable. Jas. R. Osgood & Co., Boston, 1884. It deals especially with diamond, emerald, opal, and sapphire. He gives a good account of American finds of diamond, and a long account of European regalia. The book is full of interesting comment and contains many references to older authors.

_The Tears of the Heliades_ or _Amber as a Gem_, by W. Arnold Buffum, G. P. Putnam's Sons, N. Y., 1900, is as its name implies a monograph on amber.

A good work on the history of precious stones and on historical-jewels is _Gems and Jewels_ by Madame de Barrera; Richard Bentley, London, 1860. It deals also with the geography of gem sources. An interesting chapter on "Great Jewel Robberies" is also included.

Of still greater age but of great interest is John Mawe's old work, on diamonds and precious stones. In it the author discusses in a conversational style that is very attractive much of the gem lore of his day and shows a profound knowledge of his subject, a knowledge that was evidently first hand and practical, _A Treatise on Diamonds and Precious Stones_, by John Mawe, London. 2nd edition. Printed for and sold by the author.

For readers of French, Jean Baptiste Tavernier's _Voyages_, in six volumes, will be vastly interesting. Tavernier made six journeys to India and the East between 1640 and 1680 as a gem merchant during which time he purchased and brought back to Europe many celebrated gems including the famous French blue diamond which he sold to Louis XIV. and which was stolen at the robbery of the Garde Meuble during the French Revolution. Tavernier describes these famous stones and many others that he was privileged to inspect in the treasuries of the Grand Mogul. He also describes interestingly and at great length the curious manners and customs of the people of the East. _Les Six Voyages de Jean Baptiste Tavernier_, etc., Nouvelle edition, Rouen, 1724.

Pliny's _Natural History_, to go much further back, is full of references to gems, and gem students should run through it (it is to be had in English translation) for such interesting bits as that in which he describes the belief that quartz crystal results from the effect of very great cold upon ice, a belief which Pliny himself is careful not to subscribe to. He contents himself with relating what others believe in this regard.

Both the Hebrew scriptures and the New Testament afford many references to gems with which the eager student of the subject should be familiar. "She is more precious than rubies" (referring to wisdom) is but one of these.

In conclusion the author hopes that this little text may lead a few to pursue further this most fascinating theme and that the pursuit may bring much of pleasure as well as of profit.

INDEX

Absorption, 15

Adamantine luster, 40, 41

Agate, 128, 138, 172, 197

Alexandrite, 140

Almandite (_see_ Garnet)

Altered stones, 247-249, 250-257

Amazonite, 176

Amethyst, 94, 170, 195, 196

Aquamarine, 143, 189

Azurite, 132, 148, 177, 199

Balances, Care and use of, 283-293

Beryl, 84, 143, 190

Bibliography, 301

Bloodstone, 172

Blue diamonds, 91

Blue-white diamonds, 91

Brazilian diamonds, 182

Brilliancy, 203

Brilliant cut stones, 233

Brilliant, Theory of the, 205

Brittleness of gems, 119

Brown stones, 95

Bubbles in gems, 103

Bubbles in glass, 81

Bubbles in scientific stones, 103

Burmah rubies, 154

Cabochons, 45, 216, 227

Carbon, 136

Carborundum, 54, 55, 56

Carnelian, 128, 138, 172

Cat's-eye, 44-46, 138, 171

Chalcedony, 138

Chrysoberyl, 45, 85, 122, 140, 157, 188

Chrysoberyl cat's-eye, 45, 46, 85, 188

Chrysolite, 176

"Cinnamon stone," 144

Citrine quartz, 161, 171, 195, 196

Cleaving of diamonds, 208

Cleaving of precious stones, 213

Color, cause of, in minerals, 15

Color of gems, 66-92

Colorless stones, 97

Corundum gems, 68-70, 73, 101, 121, 134, 137

Corundum gems, defects of, 101

Cultured pearls, 277-279

Cutting of diamonds, 209

Cutting of precious stones, 201-226

Demantoid garnet, 62, 64, 82, 130, 144, 169, 193

Density of minerals, 23

Diamonds, 61, 73, 91, 120, 134, 151-153, 179-186

Dichroism, 15-22, 113

Dichroscope, the, 17-20

Dispersion, 60-65

Double refraction, 5

Doublets, 41, 241-246

Emerald, 75-82, 143, 164, 189

Emerald, wearing qualities of, 109

Epidote, 9

Extraordinary ray, 16

Fancy diamonds, 91, 151

"Fire," cause of, 207

Forms of precious stones, 227-236

Garnet, 69, 82, 96, 130, 143, 144, 167-170, 192-194

Garnet, Almandite, 143, 168, 193

Garnet, Andradite, 82, 130, 144, 169, 193

Garnet, Demantoid, 62, 64, 82, 130, 144, 169, 193

Garnet, Pyrope, 144, 168, 192, 193

Glass, 62, 142

Glass imitations, 81, 237-249

"Golcondas," 180

"Grain base," price of pearls per, 271

Hardness, 47-54, 55-59, 113

Hardness and wearing qualities, 119-132

Hardness, Mohs's scale of, 48-51

Hardness, table of, 54

Hardness, test of, 51-54, 58

"Heliodor," 165

"Hope Blue" diamond, 91

Hyacinth, 166

Imitations of precious stones, 237-249

Imitations of pearls, 277-282

Imperfections, 111

Imperfections in corundum gems, 101

Imperfections in glass, 81

Imperfections in scientific stones, 104

Jacinth, 166

Jade, 128, 147, 175, 197

Jadeite, 128, 197

Jargoons, 166

Jasper, 128, 172

Kunzite, 195

Lapis lazuli, 132, 177, 199

Labradorite, 176

Luster, 38-42

"Make" of diamonds, 205-207

"Make" of precious stones, 220

Malachite, 132, 148, 177, 199

Metallic oxides, 137

Mineral species, 133-148

"Mixed cut" stones, 236

Mohs's scale of hardness, 48-51

Moonstone, 44, 45, 131, 146, 176, 198

Morganite, 165

"Nacre," 280

Naming precious stones, 149-163, 164-178

Nephrite, 129, 197

Occurrence of precious stones, 179-200

"Olivine" (_see_ Demantoid Garnet)

Olivine, 83, 176

Onyx, 172

Opal, 44, 131, 139, 173

Ordinary ray, 16

"Orient" of pearls, 261

"Oriental" stones, 84, 156

"Paste" gems, 142, 237-241

Pearls, 258-276

"Peeling" pearls, 265

Peridot, 8, 130, 176, 198

Pink stones, 93

"Pinked" topaz, 250

Plasma, 172

Polishing of diamonds, 210

Polishing of precious stones, 218

Prase, 138, 172

Properties, definition of, 1

Purple stones, 94

Quartz, aventurine, 171

Quartz, citrine, 161, 171, 195, 196

Quartz gems, 45, 127, 171, 195, 197

Reflection, total, 204

Refraction, 4

Refraction, double, 8-13

Refraction, double, test for, 10, 112

Refractometer, 5

Rhodolite garnet, 168

"Roman" pearls, 279

Rose cut stones, 231

Rose quartz, 171, 197

Rubellite, 93

Ruby, 12, 67, 69, 153, 154, 186

Ruby, scientific, 99-108

Sapphires, 63, 87, 88, 155, 187

Sard, 172

Sardonyx, 172

Scientific stones, 99-108

Scientific stones, defects in, 104

Scientific stones, tests for, 99-108

Siam rubies, 154

Silicates, 141

"Silk" in rubies, 117

Slitting of precious stones, 213

South African diamonds, 184

Specific gravity, 23-37, 114

Sphene, 9, 62, 64

Spinels, 71, 90, 123, 140, 158, 188

Spodumene, 95, 170, 195

Star stones, 44, 46, 157

"Step cut" stones, 235

Structure of pearls, 258

Table, of hardness, 54

Table of refraction, 12-13

Table of specific gravity, 29

Tariff laws, 294-299

Test for double refraction, 10

Testing hardness, 51-54, 58

Testing imitations of pearls, 281

Testing unknown gems, 109-118

Tiger's-eye, 45, 138, 171

Topaz, 67, 73, 91, 124, 145, 159, 189

Toughness in stones, 119

Tourmaline, 72, 77, 79-81, 96, 146, 167, 194

"Triplets," 79, 246

Turquoise, 130, 148, 198

Unit of weight, 289

Variscite, 148

Vitreous luster, 41

Wearing qualities of gems, 119

Zircon, 9, 62, 72, 92, 97, 125, 147, 166, 191

Diamonds

A Study of the Factors that Govern their Value

By

Frank B. Wade

"I shall speak a little more of the diamonds, that they who know them not may not be deceived by chapmen who go through the country selling them, for whoever will buy the diamond, it is needful that he know them, ..."--Chap. XIV., _The Voyages and Travels of Sir John Maundeville_.

_Table of Contents_

I.--Colour. II.--Flaws. III.--"Make." IV.--Repairing and Recutting. V.--Mounting. VI.--Buying the Engagement Ring.

* * * * *

G. P. Putnam's Sons

New York London

A Book of Precious Stones

The Identification of Gems and Gem Minerals and an Account of Their Scientific, Commercial, Artistic, and Historical Aspects

By Julius Wodiska

_8vo. With 33 Full-page Illustrations and 4 Colored Plates_

A description, in altogether a new fashion, of gems and gem minerals, their nature and history, comprehensible to every reader, and of prime value to students and to jewelers.

The general reader will enjoy the simple descriptions of the origin, development, and treatment of the diamond, sapphire, and other precious stones, as well as of the beautiful semi-precious stones. Just enough of the technical has been provided to make the new gem book a _vade mecum_ for students of gem minerals and for the army of jewelers in the United States, as well as their fellow-craftsmen and merchants in all English-speaking places. The art and industry of mounting gems is somewhat elaborately covered, especially as exemplified in the work of students at technical schools and the many unattached workers in jewelry designing and making who form a part of the Arts and Crafts movement. Some of the quaint superstitions about gems in the chapter on folklore have a curious interest. The author takes cognizance of the public desire nowadays for the novel and uncommon in gems, and shows that prospectors, gem miners, mineralogists, and jewelers are co-operating to greatly lengthen the lists of popular semi-precious stones. A chapter is devoted to collections of gems in museums.

* * * * *

G. P. Putnam's Sons

New York London

* * * * *

Transcriber's Note:

Inconsistent hyphenation and spellings have been standardised, although consistent variants remain as printed. Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note, whilst significant changes are listed below.

p. 13, 'indentity' amended to _identity_: '... of unknown identity comes along ...';

p. 20, 'dischroism' amended to _dichroism_: '... but shows hardly any dichroism.';

p. 67, 'quart' amended to _quartz_: '... (quartz topaz) ...';

p. 118, 'Saphire d'eau' amended to _Saphir d'eau_;

pp. 140, 143, 'berylium' amended to _beryllium_;

pp. 148, 318, 'Varicite' amended to _Variscite_;

p. 157, 'Csar' amended to _Czar_: '... Czar Alexander II., in whose ...';

p. 167, 'rubelite' amended to _rubellite_: '... sometimes called "_rubellite_," and white ...';

p. 190, 'Minas Garaes' amended to _Minas Geraes_;

p. 199, 'Khorassan' amended to _Khorasan_: '... province of Khorasan in Persia ...';

p. 227, 'caboch' amended to _caboche_;

p. 258, 'uniomargarifer' amended to _Unio margaritifera_;

p. 298, 'mechandise' amended to _merchandise_: '... tax on imported merchandise ...';

p. 301, 'Emanual' amended to _Emanuel_: '... _Diamonds and Precious Stones_, by Harry Emanuel ...';

p. 301, 'Hatten' amended to _Hotten_: '... John Camden Hotten ...';

p. 308, 'Streetor' amended to _Streeter_: '_Precious Stones and Gems_ by Edwin W. Streeter ...';

p. 314, 'Epidot' amended to _Epidote_.