A Text-Book of Precious Stones for Jewelers and the Gem-Loving Public
Part III. Determination and Distinguishing of Precious Stones. 20 pages.
Appendix, 26 pages. Pearls and Coral.
Bauer is exhaustive in his descriptions of the more important precious stones and he also describes briefly very many little known and little used gem minerals.
On forms of cutting he is old-fashioned.
First 68 pages given to explanation of characters used in identifying stones. Good.
On the Process of Cutting. Pages 79-87. Good account. More practical than most books give.
Careful accounts of occurrence of precious stones with maps.
Character of the occurrence of diamond in India, Brazil, and Africa, quite in detail.
The student who wishes to master the subject of gems cannot afford to neglect Bauer.
For those who read French, the latest, the most complete and thorough book on gems is Jean Escard's _Les Pierres Precieuses_, H. Dunod et E. Pinat, Paris, 1914.
It is a large and finely illustrated work.
The author has really outdone Bauer. The detail in regard to diamonds especially is very fine. Even the use of diamonds in mechanical ways is very completely gone into and also details in regard to cutting diamonds are very completely given. It is to be hoped that an English translation will soon become available.
Another large and thoroughgoing work is Gardner F. Williams' _The Diamond Mines of South Africa_, MacMillan, N. Y.
Dr. Geo. F. Kunz's _Gems and Precious Stones of North America_, The Sci. Pub. Co., N. Y., 1890, 336 pages, 8 colored plates (excellent ones too), many engravings, is a very complete account of all published finds of precious stones in the United States, Canada, and Mexico, giving a popular description of their value, history, archeology, and of the collections in which they exist, also a chapter on pearls and on remarkable foreign gems owned in the United States. Many rare and little known semi-precious stones are described here. Dr. Kunz is also the author of several more recent gem books notably _The Magic of Jewels and Charms_ and _The Curious Lore of Precious Stones_, Lippincott, Phila.
Among books on engraved gems is the old _Hand Book of Gem Engraving_ by C. W. King; Bell & Daldy, London, 1866, and one by Duffield Osborne; Henry Holt & Co., N. Y. Another book on this subject is _Engraved Gems_ by Maxwell Somerville; Drexel Biddle, Phila.
For those who wish still further references the following older works will prove interesting.
_Precious Stones_, by W. R. Cattelle; Lippincott, Phila. _Precious Stones_, by W. Goodchild; D. Van Nostrand & Co., N. Y.
Julius Wodiska, of New York, has also written an interesting work on precious stones, _A Book of Precious Stones_, Putnam's, 1907.
Still older works are _Precious Stones and Gems_ by Edwin W. Streeter; Chapman & Hall, London, 1877. This is a book of 264 pages with nine illustrations. It contains much of value and was unsurpassed in its day. Its first-hand accounts of numerous important, even celebrated diamonds and other precious stones will always make it valuable to the student of gems.
Another book by the same author is _The Great Diamonds of the World_; Geo. Bell & Sons, London, 1882; 321 pages. Not illustrated. Its title adequately describes its contents. It is an excellent work. The author even traveled in India tracing the history of some of the famous diamonds that he describes.
_Diamonds and Precious Stones_, by Louis Dieulafait published in its English translation by Scribner, Armstrong & Co., N. Y., 1874, is another old but interesting work. It has 292 pages and 126 engravings on wood. It gives a fine account of diamond cutting as practiced at that time. There is also an excellent history of the production of artificial precious stones to that date.
_The Natural History of Precious Stones and of the Precious Metals_ by C. W. King, M.A., Bell & Daldy, London, 1870, is rich in references to classical literature.
One or two interesting monographs on precious stones have been written and _The Tourmaline_, by Augustus C. Hamlin is one of these. Mr. Hamlin became interested in gems because of his accidental discovery of some of the fine tourmalines of Maine. His _Leisure Hours among the Gems_ is also very readable. Jas. R. Osgood & Co., Boston, 1884. It deals especially with diamond, emerald, opal, and sapphire. He gives a good account of American finds of diamond, and a long account of European regalia. The book is full of interesting comment and contains many references to older authors.
_The Tears of the Heliades_ or _Amber as a Gem_, by W. Arnold Buffum, G. P. Putnam's Sons, N. Y., 1900, is as its name implies a monograph on amber.
A good work on the history of precious stones and on historical-jewels is _Gems and Jewels_ by Madame de Barrera; Richard Bentley, London, 1860. It deals also with the geography of gem sources. An interesting chapter on "Great Jewel Robberies" is also included.
Of still greater age but of great interest is John Mawe's old work, on diamonds and precious stones. In it the author discusses in a conversational style that is very attractive much of the gem lore of his day and shows a profound knowledge of his subject, a knowledge that was evidently first hand and practical, _A Treatise on Diamonds and Precious Stones_, by John Mawe, London. 2nd edition. Printed for and sold by the author.
For readers of French, Jean Baptiste Tavernier's _Voyages_, in six volumes, will be vastly interesting. Tavernier made six journeys to India and the East between 1640 and 1680 as a gem merchant during which time he purchased and brought back to Europe many celebrated gems including the famous French blue diamond which he sold to Louis XIV. and which was stolen at the robbery of the Garde Meuble during the French Revolution. Tavernier describes these famous stones and many others that he was privileged to inspect in the treasuries of the Grand Mogul. He also describes interestingly and at great length the curious manners and customs of the people of the East. _Les Six Voyages de Jean Baptiste Tavernier_, etc., Nouvelle edition, Rouen, 1724.
Pliny's _Natural History_, to go much further back, is full of references to gems, and gem students should run through it (it is to be had in English translation) for such interesting bits as that in which he describes the belief that quartz crystal results from the effect of very great cold upon ice, a belief which Pliny himself is careful not to subscribe to. He contents himself with relating what others believe in this regard.
Both the Hebrew scriptures and the New Testament afford many references to gems with which the eager student of the subject should be familiar. "She is more precious than rubies" (referring to wisdom) is but one of these.
In conclusion the author hopes that this little text may lead a few to pursue further this most fascinating theme and that the pursuit may bring much of pleasure as well as of profit.
INDEX
Absorption, 15
Adamantine luster, 40, 41
Agate, 128, 138, 172, 197
Alexandrite, 140
Almandite (_see_ Garnet)
Altered stones, 247-249, 250-257
Amazonite, 176
Amethyst, 94, 170, 195, 196
Aquamarine, 143, 189
Azurite, 132, 148, 177, 199
Balances, Care and use of, 283-293
Beryl, 84, 143, 190
Bibliography, 301
Bloodstone, 172
Blue diamonds, 91
Blue-white diamonds, 91
Brazilian diamonds, 182
Brilliancy, 203
Brilliant cut stones, 233
Brilliant, Theory of the, 205
Brittleness of gems, 119
Brown stones, 95
Bubbles in gems, 103
Bubbles in glass, 81
Bubbles in scientific stones, 103
Burmah rubies, 154
Cabochons, 45, 216, 227
Carbon, 136
Carborundum, 54, 55, 56
Carnelian, 128, 138, 172
Cat's-eye, 44-46, 138, 171
Chalcedony, 138
Chrysoberyl, 45, 85, 122, 140, 157, 188
Chrysoberyl cat's-eye, 45, 46, 85, 188
Chrysolite, 176
"Cinnamon stone," 144
Citrine quartz, 161, 171, 195, 196
Cleaving of diamonds, 208
Cleaving of precious stones, 213
Color, cause of, in minerals, 15
Color of gems, 66-92
Colorless stones, 97
Corundum gems, 68-70, 73, 101, 121, 134, 137
Corundum gems, defects of, 101
Cultured pearls, 277-279
Cutting of diamonds, 209
Cutting of precious stones, 201-226
Demantoid garnet, 62, 64, 82, 130, 144, 169, 193
Density of minerals, 23
Diamonds, 61, 73, 91, 120, 134, 151-153, 179-186
Dichroism, 15-22, 113
Dichroscope, the, 17-20
Dispersion, 60-65
Double refraction, 5
Doublets, 41, 241-246
Emerald, 75-82, 143, 164, 189
Emerald, wearing qualities of, 109
Epidote, 9
Extraordinary ray, 16
Fancy diamonds, 91, 151
"Fire," cause of, 207
Forms of precious stones, 227-236
Garnet, 69, 82, 96, 130, 143, 144, 167-170, 192-194
Garnet, Almandite, 143, 168, 193
Garnet, Andradite, 82, 130, 144, 169, 193
Garnet, Demantoid, 62, 64, 82, 130, 144, 169, 193
Garnet, Pyrope, 144, 168, 192, 193
Glass, 62, 142
Glass imitations, 81, 237-249
"Golcondas," 180
"Grain base," price of pearls per, 271
Hardness, 47-54, 55-59, 113
Hardness and wearing qualities, 119-132
Hardness, Mohs's scale of, 48-51
Hardness, table of, 54
Hardness, test of, 51-54, 58
"Heliodor," 165
"Hope Blue" diamond, 91
Hyacinth, 166
Imitations of precious stones, 237-249
Imitations of pearls, 277-282
Imperfections, 111
Imperfections in corundum gems, 101
Imperfections in glass, 81
Imperfections in scientific stones, 104
Jacinth, 166
Jade, 128, 147, 175, 197
Jadeite, 128, 197
Jargoons, 166
Jasper, 128, 172
Kunzite, 195
Lapis lazuli, 132, 177, 199
Labradorite, 176
Luster, 38-42
"Make" of diamonds, 205-207
"Make" of precious stones, 220
Malachite, 132, 148, 177, 199
Metallic oxides, 137
Mineral species, 133-148
"Mixed cut" stones, 236
Mohs's scale of hardness, 48-51
Moonstone, 44, 45, 131, 146, 176, 198
Morganite, 165
"Nacre," 280
Naming precious stones, 149-163, 164-178
Nephrite, 129, 197
Occurrence of precious stones, 179-200
"Olivine" (_see_ Demantoid Garnet)
Olivine, 83, 176
Onyx, 172
Opal, 44, 131, 139, 173
Ordinary ray, 16
"Orient" of pearls, 261
"Oriental" stones, 84, 156
"Paste" gems, 142, 237-241
Pearls, 258-276
"Peeling" pearls, 265
Peridot, 8, 130, 176, 198
Pink stones, 93
"Pinked" topaz, 250
Plasma, 172
Polishing of diamonds, 210
Polishing of precious stones, 218
Prase, 138, 172
Properties, definition of, 1
Purple stones, 94
Quartz, aventurine, 171
Quartz, citrine, 161, 171, 195, 196
Quartz gems, 45, 127, 171, 195, 197
Reflection, total, 204
Refraction, 4
Refraction, double, 8-13
Refraction, double, test for, 10, 112
Refractometer, 5
Rhodolite garnet, 168
"Roman" pearls, 279
Rose cut stones, 231
Rose quartz, 171, 197
Rubellite, 93
Ruby, 12, 67, 69, 153, 154, 186
Ruby, scientific, 99-108
Sapphires, 63, 87, 88, 155, 187
Sard, 172
Sardonyx, 172
Scientific stones, 99-108
Scientific stones, defects in, 104
Scientific stones, tests for, 99-108
Siam rubies, 154
Silicates, 141
"Silk" in rubies, 117
Slitting of precious stones, 213
South African diamonds, 184
Specific gravity, 23-37, 114
Sphene, 9, 62, 64
Spinels, 71, 90, 123, 140, 158, 188
Spodumene, 95, 170, 195
Star stones, 44, 46, 157
"Step cut" stones, 235
Structure of pearls, 258
Table, of hardness, 54
Table of refraction, 12-13
Table of specific gravity, 29
Tariff laws, 294-299
Test for double refraction, 10
Testing hardness, 51-54, 58
Testing imitations of pearls, 281
Testing unknown gems, 109-118
Tiger's-eye, 45, 138, 171
Topaz, 67, 73, 91, 124, 145, 159, 189
Toughness in stones, 119
Tourmaline, 72, 77, 79-81, 96, 146, 167, 194
"Triplets," 79, 246
Turquoise, 130, 148, 198
Unit of weight, 289
Variscite, 148
Vitreous luster, 41
Wearing qualities of gems, 119
Zircon, 9, 62, 72, 92, 97, 125, 147, 166, 191
Diamonds
A Study of the Factors that Govern their Value
By
Frank B. Wade
"I shall speak a little more of the diamonds, that they who know them not may not be deceived by chapmen who go through the country selling them, for whoever will buy the diamond, it is needful that he know them, ..."--Chap. XIV., _The Voyages and Travels of Sir John Maundeville_.
_Table of Contents_
I.--Colour. II.--Flaws. III.--"Make." IV.--Repairing and Recutting. V.--Mounting. VI.--Buying the Engagement Ring.
* * * * *
G. P. Putnam's Sons
New York London
A Book of Precious Stones
The Identification of Gems and Gem Minerals and an Account of Their Scientific, Commercial, Artistic, and Historical Aspects
By Julius Wodiska
_8vo. With 33 Full-page Illustrations and 4 Colored Plates_
A description, in altogether a new fashion, of gems and gem minerals, their nature and history, comprehensible to every reader, and of prime value to students and to jewelers.
The general reader will enjoy the simple descriptions of the origin, development, and treatment of the diamond, sapphire, and other precious stones, as well as of the beautiful semi-precious stones. Just enough of the technical has been provided to make the new gem book a _vade mecum_ for students of gem minerals and for the army of jewelers in the United States, as well as their fellow-craftsmen and merchants in all English-speaking places. The art and industry of mounting gems is somewhat elaborately covered, especially as exemplified in the work of students at technical schools and the many unattached workers in jewelry designing and making who form a part of the Arts and Crafts movement. Some of the quaint superstitions about gems in the chapter on folklore have a curious interest. The author takes cognizance of the public desire nowadays for the novel and uncommon in gems, and shows that prospectors, gem miners, mineralogists, and jewelers are co-operating to greatly lengthen the lists of popular semi-precious stones. A chapter is devoted to collections of gems in museums.
* * * * *
G. P. Putnam's Sons
New York London
* * * * *
Transcriber's Note:
Inconsistent hyphenation and spellings have been standardised, although consistent variants remain as printed. Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note, whilst significant changes are listed below.
p. 13, 'indentity' amended to _identity_: '... of unknown identity comes along ...';
p. 20, 'dischroism' amended to _dichroism_: '... but shows hardly any dichroism.';
p. 67, 'quart' amended to _quartz_: '... (quartz topaz) ...';
p. 118, 'Saphire d'eau' amended to _Saphir d'eau_;
pp. 140, 143, 'berylium' amended to _beryllium_;
pp. 148, 318, 'Varicite' amended to _Variscite_;
p. 157, 'Csar' amended to _Czar_: '... Czar Alexander II., in whose ...';
p. 167, 'rubelite' amended to _rubellite_: '... sometimes called "_rubellite_," and white ...';
p. 190, 'Minas Garaes' amended to _Minas Geraes_;
p. 199, 'Khorassan' amended to _Khorasan_: '... province of Khorasan in Persia ...';
p. 227, 'caboch' amended to _caboche_;
p. 258, 'uniomargarifer' amended to _Unio margaritifera_;
p. 298, 'mechandise' amended to _merchandise_: '... tax on imported merchandise ...';
p. 301, 'Emanual' amended to _Emanuel_: '... _Diamonds and Precious Stones_, by Harry Emanuel ...';
p. 301, 'Hatten' amended to _Hotten_: '... John Camden Hotten ...';
p. 308, 'Streetor' amended to _Streeter_: '_Precious Stones and Gems_ by Edwin W. Streeter ...';
p. 314, 'Epidot' amended to _Epidote_.