Part 8

And albeit, it be a hard matter, to shewe precisely, Bewtie, what maner of thing it is: yet y^t you may have some marke, to know her by: you must understand, y^t Where jointly & severally, every parte & the whole hath his due proportion and measure, there is Bewtie. And that thing may justly be called faier, in which the saide proportion and measure is found. And by that I did once learne of a wise & a learned man: Bewtie he said, would consist but of one, at the moste. And Deformitie contrarywise, measured her selfe, by Many. As you may see by the faces of faier and goodly women. For, the even lineaments and due proportions of every of them: seeme to have byn created & framed by the judgement and sight of one face alone. Which cannot be thought in them that be foule & deformed. For, when you beholde a woman, that hath, peradventure, bigge and bowle eyes, a little nose, blubbe cheekes, a flat mouth, an out chinne, & a browne skinne: you thinke straite that that face is not one womans alone: but is moulded of many faces, and made of many peeces. And yet, you shall finde amongest them, some such, whose partes considered alone by them selves, be very perfect to see to: but all set together, be foule and ill favoured: not for any other cause, but that they be y^e lineaments of many faier women, and not of one: So that a man would weene, shee had borrowed her partes, of this and that woman. And it may be, that Painter that had all the faier maides of Calabria, naked before him: had none other intent therein, then to judge & discerne in many, y^e partes y^t they have, as it were, borrowed heere one, & there another, of one, alone: to whome restoring from eache y^t was her right: imagining y^t Venus bewty should be such, and so proportioned: he set him selfe to paint her.

And, you must not think, y^t this is to be seene in the faces, the partes, and the bodies of women alone: but it happeneth more or lesse, in speache, in gestures & doings. For, if you should chaunce to see a Noble woman gorgius and gallant, washing of cloutes in a River by y^e highe waye side: Althoughe if this were not, you might hapely passe away by her, w^t little heede to her person or state: yet this would not brook you nor like you, y^t her servile doings doe shewe her more then one. For her state should answer her honourable condition and calling. But her woorke is suche, as is meete for women of base and servile life: & although you shall feele, neither ill savour nor sent come from her, nor heare any noise that should offend you, nor any thing els to trouble your minde: yet the foule and filthy maner of doing it, and the unseemely act itselfe: will make you muche to loathe it. You must then beware of these fowle and uncomely behaviours, asmuche, nay, more then of those other, I have spoken all this while. For, it is a harder matter a greate deale, to knowe when a man faulteth in these, then when he faulteth in them. Bycause, It is easier much, we see, to feele then to understande. But yet, it may chaunce otherwhile, that even that which offendeth the senses, may also offend the minde: thoughe not altogether after one sorte, as I have told you before: shewing you that A man must apparell him selfe, according to the fashions that other men use: that it may not be thought he doth reprove and correct their doings: The which thing offendeth most men that seeke to be commended: And the wisest men that be, mislike it too. For, the garments of the olde world, have lost their date, for men of this age and this season to weare. And it is suche an ill shapen sight, to see a man clad with other mens cloathes: that a man would weene there would be a fray betwene the doublet & y^e hose: their cloathes doe sit, uppon them so untowardly.

So that, many of those matters I have spoken of allredy, or peradventure all, might be aptly rehersed here again: forasmuch as this measure I speake of here, is not observed in these things: nor the time, nor y^e place, nor the worke, nor the worker, accorded & fitted together, so well as it should be. For mens minds and fansies doe like it, & take a pleasure and delight in those things. But I thought it good to apply & speake these matters, rather under y^e badge, as it were, of the Senses and desires: then properly assigne them to the minde: that a man may the more easily perceive them: bycause It is a naturall thinge, for everie man to feele and desire: but every man cannot so generally understand, and especially that, whiche we call bewtie, gallantnes or entertainement.

It is not inoughe for a man, to doe things that be good: but hee must also have a care, hee doe them with a good grace. And a good grace is nothing els, but suche a maner of light (as I may call it) as shineth in the aptnes of things set in good order and wel disposed, one with another: and perfectly knit and united together. Without which proportion and measure, even that which is good is not faire: & the fairenes it self, is not plesaunt. And as meates, though they be good & savourie will give men no minde to eate them, if they have no pleasaunt relish and taste: So fares it with the maners of men other while (althoughe in them selves in no respect they be ill, but foolishe a little, and fond) if a man doe not season them with a certaine sweetenes, which you call (as I take it) Grace, and Comlines.

So that, every vice of it selfe, without any further matter to helpe it (it cannot be chosen) must needes offend a man. For, Vices be things so foule and filthie: that honest and modest mindes, will greeve to see their shamefull effects. And therefore, it shall behove them that seeke to be well thought of, with their familiar acquaintance, above all things els to eschewe vices, and especially those, that be foulest and worst: as Leachery, Covetousnes, Crueltie, and other. Of which, some be beastly, as Drunkennes, and Gluttonie: some uncleane, as Leacherie: other some horrible, as Murther, and such other: all which for them selves, and for the very naughtines, that is properly in them al, all men eschewe more, or lesse: But, as earst I said, generally al, as things of greate disorder, make a man misliked muche of all men.

But, bycause I have not taken uppon me to shew unto you, mens sinnes, but their Errors: it shalbe no parte of my charge at this time to entreate of y^e Nature of vices & vertues: but onely of the seemely & unseemely fashions and maners wee use one with another. One of the which unseemely fashions was, that Count Richard did use: of which I tould you before. Which, as unseemely and unfitting with those other his good and faire maners hee had besides: that same worthie Bishop (as a skilfull and cunning Maister in musicke will easily here a note out of Tune) had quickly founde out.

It shalbe then, necessarie for gentlemen and men of good behaviour, to have a regard to this measure I speake of: in going, in standing, in sitting, in gesture, in porte, in apparell, in talke, in silence, in rest and in action. For, a man must not apparell him selfe like a woman: that the Attire may not be of one sorte, and the person of another: as I doe see it in some that weare their heads & their beards curled with bodkins, and have their face, and their necks, & their hands, so starchte and painted, that it were to muche for a girle, nay, harlot, that makes a merchandize of it, and sets her selfe to the sale.

You must smell, neither of sweete nor of sower: for a gentleman would not savour nastily like a begger: nè del maschio venga odore di femina o di meretrice. I doe not by this forbid, but you may very well use some sweete smelles of sweete waters.

Your apparell must be shaped according to the fashion of the time, and your calling, for the causes I have shewed you before. For, We must not take uppon us to alter customes at our will. For time doth beget them, and time doth also weare them out.

Every man may applie those fashions, that be in common use, y^e moste to his owne advantage that he can. For, if perchaunce your legges be very long, and men use but short garments: you may use a meane, not to long, nor to short. And if your legges be to small, to greate, or crooked: make not your hosen of to light and garishe a colour, that it may not call men to looke and to gawre uppon your deformitie. Thou must weare no garment that shall be to light, or overmuche daubde with garding; that men may not say, thou hast Ganymedes hosen, or wearest Cupides doublet. But, whatsoever it be thou wearest, let it be fit and well made for thy bodie: least thou seme to brave it, in another mans cloathes.

But with all, thou must in any case respect thy condition or estate. For, A man of the Clergie, must not be attired like a Souldier: nor a Souldier goe like a Player. When Castruccio was in Rome with Lodovico Bavero at a greate Pompe, and triumphe: who was both Duke of Lucca and Pistoia, and Count of Palazzo, and Senatour of Rome: this Castruccio, being Lorde greate Maister of the saide Lodovico Bavero his househoulde: for his bravery, made him a coate of crimsin, uppon the brest wherof, there was this devise, in letters of Golde

It is even as God will.

And uppon the backe behinde.

And it shallbe as God will.

I beleeve, you thinke this garment, would have become Castruccio his Trumpeter better, then it could become him.

And although Kings be free from checke, and may doe what they list: Yet, I could never commend King Manfrede, Whoe ever more used, to suite him selfe in greene. Wee must then have a care, that our apparell be not onely wel made for the bodie: but that it be meete for our calling. And withall, it be suche, as the countrie doth use, where wee live. For, As in divers places be divers measures, and yet bying and selling every where used: So in sundry landes be sundrie customes, and yet every where a man may behave him, and apparell him selfe, soberly and comely.

These same feathers, which the Neapolitanes and Spaniardes be wont to weare, and braveries and Embroderies: have but ill place amongest grave gowned men, & the attires that Citizens doe weare. But their Armour and weapons become suche place a greate deal worse. So that, looke what hapely might be allowed in Verona, would not, perchaunce, be suffered in Venice. For as muche as these gallants, all begarded, and huffing in fethers, & warlike fellowes, would not doe well, in this Noble Citie so peacefull & Civil. Suche kinde of people be rather, in maner, like nettles and burres, amongest good and sweete garden flowers, And therefore, they come out of season to men that medle with graver matters then they doe.

I would not have a gentleman to runne in the streate, nor go to fast: for that is for lackies, and not for gentlemen to doe. Besides that, it makes a man weary, sweate, and puffe: which be very unsightly things for suche men to doe. I would not yet have a man go so softe and demurely, as a maide or a wife. And when a man walkes, it is no good sight to see a man shake his bodie to muche, nor to hold his handes bare and emptie: nor yet cast & fling his armes up & downe, in such sort as a man would weene, hee were soweing of Corne in the field: nor Stare in a mans face, as if he had spied a mares nest.

"Ther be some again, in their gate pul up their fete as high as a horse y^t hath y^e spaven: y^t a man would think they did pluck their fete forth of a bushell. Other againe stampe their feete so harde on the ground: that they make allmoste asmuche noise as a carte. Another goes as if he were splay footed. And suche a one quivers with his legges, as he stands. Some other againe, at every foote, stoope to stroke up their hose as they goe. And some set their handes to their sides, and jet up & downe like a Pecocke: which fashions doe muche offend men: not as well, but as ill beseeming a man to use them." For, if your horse, perchaunce, doe champe and play on the bit, and gape or lill out his tounge, albeit this geve little proofe of his goodnes: yet it commends him well to the sale: and you shoulde finde a misse of it, if it were otherwise: not bycause y^e horse should be ther fore the worse: but bycause he should shew the lesse courage and pleasure. Now, if it stand so, that Comelines and Grace, be so much made of in beasts, and also in things without life or sense, as experience doth shewe, that, Two things of equall goodnes & comodities, beare not for all that, a like price, if a man doe beholde a finer proportion & bewtie, more in the one then he sees in the other: How muche then more, should it be estemed and commended in men, capable of Reason.

"It is a rude fashion for a man to clawe or scratche him selfe, when he sitteth at the table. And a man should at such time have a very greate care y^t he spit not at all. But, if neede inforce him, then let him doe it, after an honest sorte." I have heard tell, many times, of suche countries that be so sober: that they doe never spitt. And what should then let us, but we may well forbeare it for suche a little while. We must also beware we doe not eate so greedily, that wee get the hicket, or belche withall: as some that feede so fast, that they noy the company with it: they blowe and puffe so loud. Likewise, you must not rubbe your teeth with your napkin, & much lesse with your fingers. For these be trickes for a sloven. Neither must you openly rince your mouth w^t the wine, and then spit it fourthe. Neither is it gentleman like, to carry a sticke in your mouth from the table when you rise, like y^e birde that builds her a nest: or put it in your eare, for that is a Barbars tricke.

And to weare a toothpicke, about your necke: of all fashions that is y^e worst. For, besides that it is a bauld Jewell for a gentleman to pull forth of his bosome, and putteth men in mind of those Tooth-drawers, that sit one their benche in the stretes: it makes "men also to thinke, that the man loves his belly full well, and is provided for it. And I see no reason, why they should not aswell carry a spoone, about their neckes, as a toothepicke."

It is a rude fashion besides, to leane over the table, or to fill your mouth so ful of meate, that your cheekes be blowne up w^tall: neither must you by any maner of meanes, give another man to know what pleasure you take, in the meate or the wine. For y^t it is for Taverners and Bousers, to use suche fashions. And to entertaine men y^t sit at your table, with these words: "You eate nothing this morning. There is nothing that likes you." Or, "tast you of this or of that:" I doe not allowe of these fashions, although they be commonly received and used of all men. For, albeit by these meanes, they shewe they make much of those they have invited unto them: yet, many times, they make men to leave to eate wher they would. "For, it geves them to thinke, they have their eyes, allwayes uppon them, and that makes them ashamed to feede."

Againe, I doe not like it, that a man shall take uppon him to be a carver of any meate that stands before him: if he be not muche the better man, that is the carver: that he to whome he carves, may thinke he receiveth some credite & honour by it. For, Amongest men that be of like condition and calling, it makes a hart burning: that he that playes the carver, should take more uppon him then another. And otherwhile, y^t which hee carveth, doth not like him to whom it is geven. And more then this, by this meanes he sheweth, that the feaste is not sufficiently furnished, or at least not well disposed in order, when some have muche, & other none at all. And y^e Maister of the house, may chaunce to take displesure at that, as if it were done to doe him shame. Neverthelesse in these matters, a man must demeasne him self, as common use and custome will allowe, and not as Reason & duetie would have it. And I would wishe a man rather to erre in these points with many, then to be singular in doing well. But whatsoever good maner there be in this case, thou must not refuse it, whatsoever is carved unto thee. For it may be thought thou doest disdaine it, or grunt at thy carver.

Now, to drink all out to every man: which is a fashion as litle in use amongst us, as y^e terme it selfe is barbarous & straunge: I meane, Ick bring you, is sure a foule thing of it selfe, & in our countrie so coldly accepted yet: y^t we must not go about to bring it in for a fashion. If a man doe quaffe or carrouse unto you, you may honestly say nay to pledge him, & geveing him thankes, confesse your weakenesse, that you are not able to beare it: or else, to doe him a pleasure, you may for curtesie taste it: and then set downe the cup to them that will, and charge your selfe no further. And although this, Ick bring you, as I have heard many learned men say, hath beene an auncient custome in Greece, and that the Graecians doe muche commend a goodman of that time, Socrates, by name, for that hee sat out one whole night long, drinking a vie with another good man, Aristophanes: and yet y^e next morning in the breake of the daye, without any rest uppon his drinking, made suche a cunning Geometricall Instrument, that there was no maner of faulte to be found in the same: And albeit they say besides this, that Even as it makes a man bould and hardy, to thrust him selfe venterously otherwhile, in to daungerous perils of life: so likewise it brings a man in to good temper and fashion, to enure him selfe otherwhile, with the daungers of things not ever chauncing: And bycause the drinking of wine after this sorte, in a vie, in such excesse and waste, is a shrewde assault to trie the strength of him that quaffes so lustily: these Graecians, would have us to use it for a certaine proofe of our strength and constancie: and to enure us the better, to resist and master all maner of strong temptations.

All this notwithstanding, I am of a contrary mind: and I doe thinke all their reasons to fond, and to foolishe. But, we see that Learned men have suche art and cunning to persuade, and such filed wordes to serve their turne: that wrong doth carry the cause away, and Reason cannot prevaile. And therefore let us give them no credite in this point. And what can I tell, if they have a secret drift herein, to excuse and cover the fault of their countrey, that is corrupt with this vice. But it is daungerous, perchaunce, for a man to reprove them for it: least asmuch happen to him, as chaunced to Socrates him selfe, for his over lavish controuling and checking of every mans fault. For, he was so spited of all men for it: that many articles of heresies & other foule faultes were put up against him, and he condemned to die in the end: allthough they were false. For in truthe, he was a very good man, & a Chatholike: respecting y^e Religion of their false Idolatrie. But suer, in that he drunke so muche wine that same night: he deserved no praise in the worlde. For, the hoggshead was able to holde & receive a great deale more, then his companion and hee were able to take: if y^t may get any praise. And though it did him no harme, that was more, the goodnes of his strong braine: then the continencie of a sober man. And let the Chronicles talke what they list of this matter, I give God thankes, that amongest many the Plagues that have creapt over the Alpes, to infect us: hitherto this worst of all the rest, is not come over: that we should take a pleasure and praise, to be drunke. Neither shall I ever beleve, that a man can learne to be temperate, of suche a Maister as wine and drounkennes.

The Stewarde of a Noble mans house, may not be so bolde to invite straungers, uppon his owne head, and set them downe at his Lorde & Maisters table. And there is none that is wise, will be intreated to it, at his request alone. But otherwhile, the servaunts of the house, be so malepert and saucie, that they will take uppon them, more then their Maister: of which things wee speake in this place, more by chaunce, then that the order we have taken from the beginning, doth so require it.

A man must not uncase him selfe, in the presence of any assembly. "For it is a slovenly sight, in place where honest men be met together of good condition and calling. And it may chaunce he doth uncover those parts of his bodie, which work him shame & rebuke to shewe them: besides y^t, it maketh other men abashed to looke upon them. Againe, I wold have no man to combe his head, nor washe his hands before men. For such things would be done alone in your chamber, and not abrode: without it be, I say, to washe your hands when you sit downe to the table. For, there it shall doe well, to washe them in sight, although you have no neede: that they with whome you feede, may assure them selves you have done it. A man must not come forthe with his kercheif, or quaife one his head, nor yet stroke up his hosen uppon his legges in company.

"Some men there be, that have a pride or a use to drawe their mouthes a little awry, or twinckle up their eye, & to blow up their cheekes, and to puffe, and to make, with their countenaunce, sundrie such like foolishe and ilfavoured faces and gestures." I councell men to leave them cleane. For, Pallas her selfe, the Goddesse (as I have hearde some wise men say) tooke once a greate pleasure to sound the flute & the cornet: & therin she was verie cunning. It chaunst her, on day, sounding her Cornet for her plesure over a fontain, she spide her selfe in the water: and when she beheld those strange gestures she must nedes make with her mouth as she plaid: she was so much ashamed of it that she brake the cornet in peces & cast it away.

And truely she did but well, for it is no instrument for a woman to use. And it becomes men as ill, "if they be not of y^t base condition and calling, that they must make it a gaine, & an art to live uppon it. And looke what I speake, concerning the unseemely gestures of the countenance and face: concerneth likewise, all the partes and members of man. For it is an ill sight, to lill out y^e tounge, to stroke your bearde much up and downe (as many doe use to doe) to rubbe your hands together: to sighe, & to sorrowe: to tremble or strike your selfe, which is also a fashion w^t some: to reatche and stretche your selfe, & so retching, to cry out after a nice maner, Alas, Alas: like a country cloune, y^t should rouse him selfe in his couche."

And he that makes a noise w^t his mouth in a token of wonder, and other while, of contempte and disdaine: "counterfeteth an ilfavoured grace. And Counterfet things, differ not muche from truethes."

A man must leave those foolishe maner of laughings, groase and uncomely. "And let men laughe uppon occasion, and not uppon custome. But a man must beware he doe not laughe at his owne gestes, and his doings. For that makes men weene hee woulde faine praise him selfe. It is for other men to laughe that heare, and not for him that telles the tale."

Now, you must not beare your selfe in hand, that bycause eache of these matters considered a parte, is but a small fault, y^e hole therefore together should be as light: but you must rather persuade your selfe y^t Many a litle doth make a mickle, as I tould you from the beginning. And how muche lesse they be, so much the more neede a man hathe to looke well in to them: bycause they be not easily perceived a far of, but creepe in to us by custom, before we be a ware. And, As light expences often used, in Continuance of time, doe covertly waste and consume a greate masse of wealth and riches: So doe these light faultes with the multitude and number of them, in secret overthrow all honest and good civilitie and maner. So y^t we must not make a light reconing of them.