CHAPTER XIII.

COSMETICS.

Under this heading will be considered toilet vinegars, washes, perfumed powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well as paints.

The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch of perfumery. The materials used for the purpose should be selected and of good quality even for cheap articles, which are, of course, also represented in the following receipts.

SKIN COSMETICS.--_Toilet vinegars._--Perfumed vinegars, when added to wash water, have a refreshing effect and are also used as fumigating agents by mixing them with water in a dish and placing the latter in the room.

_Vinaigre de Bully._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, tinctures of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax, each 1 lb., olibanum tincture ½ lb., vanilla tincture and best lavender oil 5¼ ozs., bergamot oil and lemon oil each 4¼ ozs., acetic acid 2 lbs.

_Vinaigre de toilette à la rose._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs., _extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3½ ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.

_Vinaigre de toilette à la violette._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures of benzoin and storax each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2½ ozs., liquid orris-root oil[24] 11 drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.

[24] See foot-note, p. 257.

_Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart, musk root tincture 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 1 lb., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., verbena oil and palmarosa oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.

_Vinaigre de toilette orange._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, benzoin tincture 10½ ozs., abelmosk tincture and vitivert tincture each 8 ozs., civet tincture 14 drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.

_Vinaigre de toilette._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, orris-root tincture 1⅗ lbs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam and angelica each 1 lb., French rose-geranium oil 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 4¼ ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil each 3½ ozs., neroli oil 8¼ drachms, best rosemary oil 11 drachms, peppermint oil 5½ drachms, acetic acid 2 lbs.

_Aromatic vinegar._--Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol 1⅛ oz., acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1½ ozs., acetic acid 3½ ozs., oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and wintergreen each 5 drops.

_English aromatic vinegar._--Crystallized acetic acid 20 ozs., camphor 2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of cloves 30 drops, oil of cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and dissolve.

The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The vials are first filled with sulphate of potassa in small crystals, and enough acetic acid is added to thoroughly moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of potassa is said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mixture was formerly obtained by introducing into the vials acetate of potassa and a sufficiency of sulphuric acid. Whether this be true or not, sulphate of potassa constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the liquid in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge.

_Toilet vinegar._--Essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris 4 drachms, essence of vanilla and oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong acetic acid 160 drops, alcohol 6 ozs.

_Washes._--Washes are mostly milky fluids or emulsions, formed by the fine division of resins or balsams in water, benzoin and myrrh being especially employed for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time believed that fumigations with it every evening after washing would prevent wrinkles in the face. The emulsions are used by adding one to two tablespoonfuls to the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much employed as an addition to wash-water.

_Virginal milk_ (_Lait virginal_).--Alcohol of finest quality 2½ quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil each 5½ drachms, benzoin tincture 1 quart.

Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of sugar, add the bergamot oil and rose oil and mix intimately. Now bring the paste-like substance into a glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol and add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the latter with a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm room for 8 days, shaking frequently. Then add the benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally filter through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient of it to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which exerts a refreshing and invigorating effect upon the skin and olfactory nerves.

_Rose milk_ (_Lait de rose_).--Rose water 5 lbs., white beeswax and comminuted Castile soap each 3½ ozs., potash 4½ ozs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1 8 ozs.

Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel, and dissolve in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax, and, when this is dissolved, the potash, stirring constantly, while the substances are dissolving. When solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a cloth (best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it and allow it to cool. When cold add the _Extrait rose_, shake thoroughly and fill it into bottles for sale.

If the _Lait de rose_ is to be rose color, add very carefully a small quantity of corallin tincture and shake vigorously.

Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be employed in the preparation of these emulsions, as otherwise they would soon become rancid.

_Almond milk_ (_Lait d'amandes amères_).--Distilled water 5 lbs., bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., comminuted Castile soap 2½ ozs., potash 3½ ozs., bitter-almond oil 8¼ drachms, dissolved in extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 8 ozs.

Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert them to a paste by pounding in a clean mortar, bring the paste into the distilled water, and extract in a water-bath for about ½ hour. Then strain the liquid through a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dissolved, strain again and proceed as given for rose milk. The bitter-almond oil is dissolved in the extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ and added last of all to the liquid mass.

_Lily milk_ (_Lait de lys_).--Rose water, orange-flower water, and jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax 3½ ozs., Castile soap 2½ ozs., potash and orris-root tincture each 3½ ozs., cumarin tincture 1¾ ozs., dissolved in musk-root tincture 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given for _Lait de Rose_.

In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked that it should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as otherwise all the preparations above given might, in a short time, become rancid.

_Perfumed glycerin with rose odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 10 lbs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 8 ozs.

By adding the _Extrait rose_, the glycerin becomes turbid, but clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing the mixture to stand quietly for several days. Filtering the fluid is not advisable, and besides entirely useless.

_Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 10 lbs., any kind of fruit ether 1¾ ozs. Shake thoroughly. The glycerin, if chemically pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit ether, which, of course, must also be of the best quality.

PERFUMED MEALS AND PASTES.--The perfumed meals are frequently used for washing in place of soap, or they are applied after washing, or shaving, to the skin to prevent the latter from becoming rough or chapped. The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softer.

_Farin de noisette_ (_nut meal_).--Best quality wheat flour 3 lbs., almond meal 1½ lbs., orris-root powder 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs.

Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

_Farin d'amandes amères_ (_almond meal_).--Best quality wheat flour and almond meal each 3 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1 oz.

Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

_Pate d'amandes au miel_ (_honey almond paste_).--Best quality almond meal 2 lbs., honey 4 lbs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 2 lbs., fresh olive oil 4 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1¾ ozs., the yolks of 20 eggs.

Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware dish. Mix the honey and glycerin after slightly warming them. Beat the yolks of the eggs in a small dish with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and of the olive oil to the almond meal, work the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then add the yolks of the eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the bitter-almond oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best to keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed earthenware pot in a cool place for about 14 days before distributing it into boxes, because after the ingredients are mixed together a slight fermentation takes place which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the porcelain boxes.

Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin, upon the hands, face, and neck, for which, in fact, it has proved excellent.

_Poudre de riz à la rose._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 3½ ozs., French rose-geranium oil 14 drachms, clove oil 2¾ drachms.

The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed through a sieve. The perfumes are brought together in a glass and thoroughly shaken. The same directions hold good for all succeeding receipts for _Poudre de riz_. Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the Briancon talc or French chalk being very suitable for the purpose, it yielding a very white and delicate powder. It is prepared as follows: Over 1 part of talc pour 2 parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent shaking, for 14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with distilled water.

If rose-colored _poudre de riz rose_ is demanded, add to the proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of madder, triturate it thoroughly with the powder, perfume, triturate again, and finally pass the whole through a fine sieve.

These rice powders are best kept in well-closed tin canisters.

_Poudre de riz héliotrope._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5 drachms, clove oil 2½ drachms, vanilla tincture 10 drachms, _Extrait héliotrope_ No. 1, 1¾ ozs.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz à la violette._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root oil 2½ drachms, _Extrait Violette_ No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin tincture 5 drachms.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz orange._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms, extract from _Pommade Orange_ 1 oz.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz muguet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., ylang-ylang oil, wintergreen oil, angelica oil, and bitter-almond oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5 drops, storax tincture 14 drachms, _Extrait Muguet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz ixora._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 oz., bergamot oil 2½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 drachm, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1¾ ozs., extract from _Pomm. Cassie_ or _Extrait ixora_ 1¾ ozs.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.

_Poudre de riz bouquet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and Ceylon cinnamon oil each 2¾ drachms, _Extrait ess-bouquet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs.

Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.

COLD CREAMS AND LIP-SALVES.--The purpose of cold creams and lip-salves is to impart lustre to the skin and protect it from cracking in changes of temperature.

_Cold cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., spermaceti 5¼ ozs., white beeswax 7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose oil 5½ drachms.

Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the spermaceti and wax, then add the almond oil, and when the whole forms a liquid allow the previously warmed rose water to flow in slowly, stirring constantly. Now take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to thicken. Then stir in the perfume and fill the finished cold cream in boxes.

_Vaseline cold cream._--White vaseline 2 lbs., fat-almond oil 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, French rose-geranium oil and Turkish rose oil each 2½ drachms.

Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold cream.

_Glycerin cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., white beeswax and spermaceti each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 1 lb., bergamot oil 1 oz., clove oil, Turkish rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2½ drachms. Proceed as above.

_Crême de concombre._--Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white beeswax 10 drachms, spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly-expressed cucumber juice 7 ozs., volatile cucumber oil 2½ drachms, bergamot oil 1½ drachms.

Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated mass upon a clean white cloth, and gently express the juice so that no mucus passes through the cloth. The cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of the process being the same as with cold cream.

_Glycerin gelée._--Gum-tragacanth 5½ drachms, swelled up in rose water 10½ ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 7 ozs., honey 3½ ozs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1¾ ozs.

Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring the powder into a capacious glass flask, pour the rose water upon it, and, after corking the flask, let it stand for about 3 days, shaking it frequently and vigorously. Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now represents a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed sieve into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey, and _Extrait rose_, mix the whole intimately, and fill the tubes or glasses with the finished preparation. It is an approved remedy for chapped skin.

_Glycerin jelly._--Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 lbs., soap 2½ ozs., orange-peel oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms.

Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil, and finally the perfume.

_Cream of roses._--Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin 1 oz., alcohol ½ oz., water 6½ ozs., boric acid 40 grains, spirits of lavender and bergamot each 1 oz.

_Boroglycerin cream._--Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in 24 parts of glycerin; add to this solution 5 parts of lanolin and 70 parts of petrolatum. This preparation is said to be excellent for chapped hands, lips, etc.

_Récamier cream._--The following formula is said to produce something quite similar to this preparation: zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid drachms, water 5 fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1 fluid drachm.

_Preparations for chapped hands._--I. Quince seed 2 ozs., rose water 16 ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince seeds in the rose water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and benzoin.

II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1 oz. Perfume to suit.

III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin 50. Apply twice daily. The pain soon ceases, the skin softens and the chaps quickly disappear.

IV. Quince seed 1½ drachms, boric acid 4 grains, carbolic acid 10 grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs., cologne 2 ozs., oil of lavender 20 drops, glycerite of starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make 1 pint. Dissolve the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince seed in the solution for three hours and then press through a straining cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid and glycerite of starch and mix thoroughly. Mix the cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add the solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well.

_Wash for the hands.-_-Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5 drachms, rose water 4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands should be washed with soap in soft water, or water to which a little borax has been added, thoroughly dried and then well rubbed with the lotion.

_Nail-powder._--The following preparation serves for the purpose of imparting smoothness and lustre to the finger nails. For use apply some of the powder to a piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until they show lustre.

Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 lbs., carmine 5½ drachms, oils of bergamot and lavender each 2½ drachms. Rub the stannic oxide as fine as possible and mix it in the mortar with the other ingredients.

_Lip-salve_ No. 1.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs., best carmine nacarat 2½ drachms.

Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with the _Pomm. Rose_ in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine are perceptible. By this trituration the salve becomes very soft and delicate, so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small boxes. A pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface of the salve by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol lamp. It may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring matter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for instance, alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily acquires a bluish coloration.

If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the object may be attained by the addition of a few drachms of white beeswax. However, in this case, the pomade must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade and wax melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, fill into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol flame.

_Lip-salve_ No. 2.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 6 or 12, 10½ ozs., _Huile antique rose_ No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white beeswax 5½ drachms, carmine nacarat 2¾ drachms.

Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then add, first, the oil, combine it with the wax, then add the pomade and finally the carmine. When all this is intimately mixed, stir it until cold. The further process is the same as given for No. 1.

PAINTS.--The object of paints is to hide blemishes of the skin and to impart to it a different color--as a rule a youthful one--from that bestowed by nature, though under certain conditions, especially in the case of actors, they are also employed for the purpose of changing the expression of the face. A distinction is made between pulverulent, solid, liquid and fat paints.

PULVERULENT PAINTS (POWDERS).--The simplest powder is wheat starch. It forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly harmless. Powdered talc, prepared in the manner previously described (p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 parts of prepared talc, while still moist, with 12 parts of spermaceti, previously rubbed to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate heat, a product known in commerce as "Blanc fard," or "Blanc français," is obtained.

Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is mixed, according to circumstances, with _subnitrate of bismuth_ (_flake-white_), _magnesia_, _chalk_ or _zinc-white_. _White lead_, though frequently used, cannot be recommended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate of bismuth furnishes the best white; it has, however, the disadvantage of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white does not have this defect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color.

Customary mixtures for powders are as follows:--

I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, zinc-white 10.

II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, subnitrate of bismuth 20.

The powders are prepared in three colors: white, rose-color and yellowish. To heighten the white color the powder is mixed with about ⅓ of one per cent. of ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is used, and for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre.

A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared as follows: Mix 100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or more parts of carmine, according to the desired shade of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and in small portions added to the talc. It should not be dissolved, as given in many directions, in ammonia, it losing thereby its fiery red. To obtain an especially delicate powder, the finished article should be carefully bolted through silk.

SOLID PAINTS.--Solid paints may be prepared from the above-mentioned powders by stirring them to a paste with thin gum solution.

_Ordinary red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1 oz., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, best alcohol 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, distilled water as much as required.

_Fine red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1½ ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, rose water as much as required.

_White paint._--Prepared talc 2 lbs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as required.

The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small porcelain boxes, which must, however, be hermetically closed to prevent drying out. To obviate the latter, the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must, however, be carefully done so that the mass does not become liquid; too much glycerin may also make the paint blue.

Regarding the preparation of these paints, the following may be said: The prepared talc is passed through a fine-meshed sieve into a porcelain dish. The carmine is rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and then triturated with water[25] in the same mortar until no more specks of carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to the talc in the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a horn or wooden spoon, and gradually add sufficient rose water to form a dough-like mass. Then add to this mass about 1¾ ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, prepared 3 or 4 days before from 2¼ drachms of pulverized gum-tragacanth and 3½ ozs. of water, work the mass thoroughly through, and add the 5½ drachms of best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with the mass, mix in the 1 oz. of _Extrait rose_ or alcohol, and again work the mass thoroughly through, when the paint is ready to be brought upon porcelain plates.

[25] For fine preparations, rose water is used; for ordinary, distilled water.

The procedure is now as follows: By means of a spoon bring a quantity of the paint, about the size of three hazelnuts upon the centre of a porcelain plate, spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by knocking the latter against the table, and in the same manner cover 6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates. Tie a piece of paper over the dish containing the rest of the paint and set it aside. Place the plates coated with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in both cases the paint would become blue. After 12 to 18 hours the paint upon the plates will be dry, and now comes the most difficult part of the manipulation. With a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card scrape off very carefully and uniformly a small quantity from the surface of the paint, proceeding from the edges towards the centre of the plate. Then, to see whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the edge of the latter quite vigorously against the table. If it adheres firmly, cover the entire plate with a piece of watered silk, catch the ends of the latter beneath the plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of the right, run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moiré of the silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice appearance. Proceed in the same manner with the six or eight test-plates, and if the paint upon them bears the manipulation without dropping off, work up the rest of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does not adhere to the plates, it is proof of it containing not enough gum-tragacanth. In this case add some of the mucilage to the paint in the dish, work it thoroughly through, and proceed in the manner described. Packing, labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not here be described, but as the charm of novelty contributes much to the sale of an article, the manufacturer should make it his business to invent new attractive designs, without too much imitating others.

_Red stick-paint_ (_Stick rouge_).--Prepared talc 1 lb., carmine 5½ drachms, olive oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 8¼ drachms, spirit of sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful, distilled water and gum-tragacanth mucilage as much as required.

The mode of preparation is the same as for solid paints, except that in order to give the rouge more consistency, less water and gum-tragacanth mucilage are to be used.

For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds about 2½ inches long and of the thickness of a finger are used. To facilitate the removal of the rouge sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with a rag moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin stick of wood. After removing the sticks from the mould, they are allowed to dry superficially, and next wrapped first in tissue paper and then in tinfoil, one end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil. They are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes.

_White stick paint_ is prepared in the same manner as stick rouge, with the exception that the carmine is omitted.

_Rouge en feuilles._--Prepared talc 1¾ ozs., carmine 2¾ drachms, olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammoniac about 50 drops, pure alcohol 5¼ ozs., distilled water or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage 1¾ ozs.

The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil, spirits of sal ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage are successively thoroughly triturated with the carmine, next the talc is added, then the water, and finally the alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the pestle. The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush, is applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a circular disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre of the paper. The application of the rouge to the paper has to be repeated three or four times, allowing one layer to dry before applying the next. When the last layer is dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of tissue paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper cutter over the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of tissue is laid between the separate pieces.

LIQUID PAINTS. Liquid paints are chiefly used by actors.

_Liquid rouge._--Rose water 1½ quarts, carmine 1¾ ozs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 lb.

Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a glazed earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously rubbed fine, to the hot rose water, and stir the fluid with a clean wooden spatula until the carmine is completely divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and add a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter imparts to the rouge a brighter red, but not too much of it should be used, as otherwise the rouge acquires a bluish shade, and besides the odor of the spirits of sal ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge is cold add 1 lb. of _Extrait de rose_, mix the whole intimately, and filter through white filtering paper into a clean glass bottle. The rouge has to be protected from sunlight.

_White liquid paint._--Fine zinc-white 3 lbs., rose water or orange water 3½ quarts.

In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5 quarts of distilled water, stirring constantly, until about 3 quarts of the water are evaporated. Then take the vessel from the fire and allow the fluid to stand quietly for ½ hour. Then carefully decant off the supernatant water, pour the 3½ quarts of rose water or orange water upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles.

_Fat paints._--Fat paints of various colors and shades are prepared chiefly for the use of actors. The ground mass consists of _Blanc fard_ or _Blanc français_, or simply of pulverized talc bolted through silk. It is colored, according to the color desired, with carmine, eosin, sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated in the proportion of 1½ ground mass to 1 fatty mass, with the fatty mass consisting of white wax 3 parts and olive oil 7 parts; _or_ paraffin 1½ parts and white vaseline 2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the water-bath, the powder stirred in, and after allowing the mixture to cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured into tin tubes previously slightly warmed.

Besides the above-mentioned _fat paints in sticks_, there are also _fat paints in porcelain boxes_, which are of a somewhat softer consistency. They are prepared in white, rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts for them are as follows:--

_Crême de Lys._--Melt 3½ ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs. of white wax in the water-bath, and after taking the mass from the fire mix it with 3⅕ lbs. of subnitrate of bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with 1⅘ lbs. of almond oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until entirely cold, and perfume.

_Crême de rose._--Spermaceti 3½ ozs., white wax 7 ozs., _Blanc Français_ 3⅕ lbs., carmine 8¼ drachms, almond oil 1-4/5 lbs.

Proceed as directed for _crême de lys_.

INDEX.

Abelmosk or musk-seed tincture, 230, 231

Absorption or enfleurage, process of, 60-65

Acacia oil, 87

Acetic amyl acetate or amyl acetate, 201 ethyl or ethyl acetate, 201-204

Acid number, 81

African and French geranium oils, 112, 113

Alcohol and sulphuric acid test, Hager's, 78 chloroform, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations with, 72, 73 or spirit of wine, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71

Alcoholic perfumes, 219-255

Allspice, oil of, or pimento oil, 136

Almond bandoline, 305 meal, 329 milk, 327 oil (bitter), 87-93 adulterations of, 90-92 artificial, 89, 90 tincture, 234 paste, honey, 329

Alpine herb oil, 301

Ambergris, 31, 186-188 adulterations of, 188 tincture, 229

Ambrein or ambrin, 187

America and England, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214

American curled mint oil, 132 English, or Canadian castor, 185, 186 musk-rat, musk of the, 181, 182 oil of turpentine, 149 peppermint oil, 132, 133

American soap industry, consumption of citronella oil in the, 108 storax, 172

Amygdalin, 88

Amyl acetate or acetic amyl acetate, 201 valerate or valerianic ether, 214-216

Anethol, 111

Angelica oil, 92, 93 root tincture, 231

Animal kingdom, perfume-substances from the, 178-188

Anise-seed oil, 93, 94

Antiseptic gargle, 275

Apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, 223-225 for determining the percentage of volatile oil in a vegetable substance, 40, 41 for distilling lemon oil, 118-120 for the absorption process, 62-64 for the distillation of volatile oil, 41-46 for the extraction of volatile oils, 48-57 for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227

Apple essence, 216 ether, 216 pomade, 289

Apricot essence, 216, 217 ether, 216

Aqua mellis, 255

Arabian physicians, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26

Arnica tooth-tincture, 276

Aromatic vinegar, 325 English, 325, 326

Artificial musk, 182, 183 perfume-materials, 189-218

Athens, luxurious use of ointments in, 22

Atomizers, 263

Atomizing, pine odor for, 265

Attar of roses or rose oil, 136-144

Austrian oil of turpentine, 148

Avicenna, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26

Balm oil, 96

Balm-oil tincture, 234

Balsam, Brazilian, 166 Carthagena, 166 fumigating, 265, 266 Peru, 159-166 pine oil, 149, 150 Tolu, 166-168 new variety of, 167, 168 white Indian, 172 Peru, 172 Peruvian, 160, 161

Balsams, 155, 156 and resins, 155-177

Balsamum Peruvianum, 159-166

Bandoline, almond, 305 rose, 305

Bandolines, 304, 305

Barenthin's application of Hübl's iodine method to volatile oils, 80

Bartholow's depilatory, 323

Bartlett, W. W., menthol pungent as prepared by, 260 Preston salt as prepared by, 260

Basil oil, 96 tincture, 234

Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, 96, 97

Bay leaves, oil of, or bayberry oil, 96, 97

Bay rum, 312-314 formulæ for, 313, 314

Beard, Rogers's pomade for producing a, 294

Bear's grease, 285 pomade, 289

Beauty-patch or mouche, 28

Beef-marrow pomade, 294

Benzine, detection of, in volatile oil, 71, 72

Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, 204, 205

Benzoin, 157-159 amygdaloid, 157 determination of cinnamic acid in, 158, 159 flowers, 159 in tears, 157 lump, 157 pomade, 290 tincture, 229 treatment of fat oils with, 300, 301 varieties of, 158

Bergamot oil, 97, 98 tincture, 234

Betula lenta, oil from, 152

Beyer frères, apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, 223-225 for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227

Birch oil, 152

Bismuth hair dye, 320 nitrate of, 335, 336

Bisulphide of carbon, 48

Black hair dyes, 321 tooth-powder, 280 wax pomade, 299

Blanc fard or blanc français, 335

Blondel, Dr., memoir on the star anise tree, by, 95

Blonde wax pomade, 299

Boettger's depilatory, 323

Boroglycerin cream, 333

Bouchardat and Lafont, conversion of oil of turpentine into lemon oil by, 189, 190

Bouquet vaseline pomade, 296

Bouquets, 219, 240-245

Brazilian balsam, 166

Brilliantine, 305-308 formulas for, 307, 308

Brown hair dye, 321 wax pomade, 299, 300

Bulgaria, rose oil industry in, 137, 138

Burdock-root hair oil, 302

Butyric acid, preparation of, 205-207 ether, formation of, 207, 208 or ethyl butyrate, 205-210

Cajeput oil, 98, 99

Camomile oil, 99, 100

Camphor tooth-powder, 280

Canadian, English, or American castor, 185, 186

Canango oil, 154 tincture, 234

Caraway oil, 100, 101

Carbon, bisulphide of, 48

Carbonic acid, apparatus for developing a current of, 50-52

Carob or St. John's bread, 209

Carthagena balsam, 166

Carvene, 100

Carvol, 35, 100

Cassia oil, 103, 104 tincture, 235 value of, 104

Cassie, oil of, 87

Castor, 31 adulterations of, 186

Castoreum or castor, 185, 186

Castor oil, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68 pomade, 293 or castoreum, 185, 186 tincture, 229

Cedar oil, 101 tincture, 235

Ceylon cinnamon oil, 102, 103

Chalk, 336

Chamomile oil, 99, 100

Chapped hands, preparations for, 333, 334

Chassis, 61

Cherry essence, 217 ether, 216 laurel oil, 101, 102 tooth-paste, 278 non-fermenting, 278

Chloroform, alcohol, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations with, 72, 73 detection of, in volatile oil, 71

Cineol, 123

Cinnamaldehyde, 103 quantitative determination of, 104-106

Cinnamic acid, determination of, in benzoin, 158, 159

Cinnamon leaves, oil of, and cinnamon-root oil, 104 oil tincture, 235 oils, 102-106

Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves, 104

Citrene, 35, 121

Citronella oil, 107, 108 tincture, 235

Citronellol, 107

Citron oil, 106, 107

Civet, 31, 184, 185 tincture, 228

Clove-oil tincture, 235

Cloves, oil of, 108-110

Cold cream, 331 creams and lip-salves, 331-335

Cologne water, 249-254 durability of volatile oils used for, 250, 251 preparation of, 249, 250 receipts for, 252-254

Coloring substances for dentifrices and mouth-waters, 272 for pomades, 286

Compound odors, 240-245

Copper hair dye, 322 nitroprusside of, test, 75-78 salts for dyeing the hair, 315, 316

Cortex thymiamatis, 168

Cosmetics, 324-342 and perfumeries in the Middle Ages, 26, 27 and perfumes in Italy, 26, 27 receipts for, in the writings of Arabian physicians, 26

Cream, boroglycerin, 333 cold, 331 glycerin, 332 of roses, 333 Récamier, 333 vaseline cold, 331

Crême de concombre, 332 de lys, 342 de rose, 342

Cumarin, 190-193 manufacture of, 192, 193 tincture, 232

Curled mint oil, 132

Currant essence, 217

Cymene, 121

Dandruff cures, 312 lotion, 312

Densdorf pomade, 290

Dentifrice, singular, used by the Roman ladies, 26

Dentifrices and mouth-waters, coloring substances for, 272 mouth-waters, etc., 272-283

Depilatories, 322, 323 use of in ancient Rome, 25, 26

Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes, 24 for preparing rose ointment, 23, 24 "Medica materia," 23

Distillation of expressed oil, 39 of lemon oil, 118 of rose oil, 137, 138 of volatile oils, 39-48 ancient mode of, 24

Distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120

Double hair dyes, 321, 322

Dragendorff's test, 68, 69

Dry perfumes, 256-261

Dutch tonka bean, 191, 192

Dwarf pine oil, 149

East Indian geranium oil, 112

Eau Athénienne, 308

Eau d'Afrique, 322 de Botot (improved), 275 de Cologne, 249-254 durability of volatile oils for, 250, 251 hair tonic, 309 preparation of, 249, 250 receipts for, 252-254 solid perfume, 260 de lavande, 255 double, 255 de Lisbonne, 255 de quinine, 309, 310 (imitation), 310 de vie de lavande double ambrée, 255 dentifrice Botot, 274 Orientale, 274, 275 lustral (hair restorative), 310

Écuelle process for obtaining lemon oil, 117, 118

Egg oil, virtues of, 314

Egypt, ancient, paints used in, 18, 19

Egyptians, use of perfume-substances by the, for embalming the dead, 18

Elæoptene, 33

Emperor pomade, 292

Enfleurage or absorption, process of, 60-65

England and America, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214 use of perfumery in, 30

English aromatic vinegar, 325, 326 Canadian, or American castor, 185, 186 peppermint oil, 132, 133 tonka bean, 192

Esprit de menthe, 276

Ess-bouquet sachet powder, 259 solid perfume, 260

Essence à l'écuelle, or au zeste, 117 apple, 216 apricot, 216, 217 cherry, 217 currant, 217 de jasmin, 114 de lavande Montblanc, 115 de mirbane, 199 grape, 217 lemon, 217 melon, 217 of Portugal, 125 of the odor of Linden blossoms, 238 orange, 217 peach, 217 pear, 217 pine-apple, 217 plum, 217 raspberry, 218 strawberry, 218

Essences and vinegars, fumigating, 264-266 pastilles, powders, etc., for fumigating, 262-271

Essential or volatile oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31

Ester or ether number, 82

Ether, apple, 216 apricot, 216 cherry, 216 or ester number, 82 pear, 216 pine-apple, 216 strawberry, 216

Ethers, fruit, 200-218

Ethyl acetate, or acetic ethyl, 201-204 benzoate, or benzoic ether, 204, 205 butyrate, or butyric ether, 205-210 formate, or formic ethyl ether, 210, 211 nitrite, or nitrous ether, 211-214

Eucalyptene, 111

Eucalyptol, 111

Eucalyptus oil, 110, 111 tincture, 235

Eugenol, 103, 109

Expression of volatile oils, 36-39

Extract, concentrated flower, 245 patchouli, 233 spinach, 239

Extraction of volatile oils, 48-58 or maceration of flowers, 286, 287

Extracts, alcoholic, from flower pomades, apparatus for, 223-225 and tinctures, 225-237

Extrait acacia, 237 bouquet Eugenie, 241 Prince Albert, 243 Victoria, 242, 248 cassie, 237 chypre, 243, 244, 247 de violette de Parme, 239, 240 edelweiss, 240 ess-bouquet, 240, 241, 247 excelsior, 241 fleurs de Mai, 238 Frangipani, 241, 249 héliotrope, 237 ixora, 239, 248, 249 jacinthe, 237, 238 jasmin, 238 jockey club, 241, 242 jonquille, 238 kiss-me-quick, 243 lily of the valley, 238 magnolia, 238 maréchal, 244 May flowers, 238 millefleurs, 242 mogadore, 243 mousseline, 244 muguet, 238, 248 musk, 243 new-mown hay, 243, 247

Extract opopanax, 242 orange, 239 patchouli, 242 réséda, 240, 246 rose, 246 v. d. centifolie, 239 spring-flower, 241, 248 tubereuse, 240 violette, 239, 246 white rose, 239 ylang-ylang, 240, 246, 247

Extraits aux fleurs, 219, 237-240 d'odeurs, 219 triple concentrés, 244, 245

Face, painting the, practised by the Hebrew women, 19

Family pomade, 290, 291 vaseline pomade, 296

Farine d'amandes amères, 329 de noisette, 328

Fat mixtures for hair pomades, 288, 289 paints, 341, 342

Fats, animal, preparation of, for the reception of perfumes, 24 for pomades and hair oils, 284 protection of, against rancidity, 285 purification of, 285, 286

Federer's, C. F., test for peppermint oil, 135

Fennel oil, 111, 112

Filter, illustrated and described, 38, 39

Filtration of expressed oils, 37-39

Flake-white, 336

Florentine flasks, 46, 47

Florida water, 308, 309

Flower brilliantine, 306, 307 extract, concentrated, 245 fumigating essence, héliotrope, 264 hair oil, 301 pomades, 286, 287 extraction of, 221-225

Flowers for the production of volatile oils, localities best suited for the cultivation of, 32, 33 maceration or extraction of, 286, 287

Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate, 210, 211

France, cultivation of the bitter orange in, 126 extravagant use of rouge in, 28, 29 golden age for toilet articles in, 27-29 introduction of the arts of the toilet into, 27 old process of maceration in, 59

Frangipani sachet powder, 258

Frankincense, in ancient times, 19-21 or olibanum, 176, 177

French and African geranium oils, 112, 113 oil of turpentine, 148 patchouli oil, 131 perfumers, ancient, privileges of, 29, 30 pomades (flower pomades), fine, 286, 287

Fruit ethers, 200-218

Fuchsine, detection of alcohol by, 69

Fumigating agents, dry, objections to, 263, 264 balsam, 265, 266 essences and vinegars, 264-266 pastilles, powders, etc., 262-271 lacquer, 270, 271 mode of, 262, 263 object of, 262 paper, 268 pastilles, 268-270 ordinary black, 269 red, 269 powder, ordinary, 266, 267 violet, 267 powders, 266-268 prejudice against, 262 vinegar, 266 water, 266

Funnel, separatory, 47

Geraniol, 112

Geranium oil, East Indian, 112

Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112 tincture, 235 oils, French and African, 112, 113

German curled-mint oil, 132

German oil of turpentine, 148 peppermint oil, 132, 133

Germany, manufacture of rose oil in, from indigenous roses, 136

Glycerin cream, 332 for dentifrices, 273, 274 gelée, 332 hair tonic, 310 jelly, 332, 333 perfumed with fruit odor, 328 with rose odor, 328

Grape essence, 217

Greeks, practice of anointing the body by the, 21

Green camomile oil, 99

Guaiacum reaction, Hager's, 78-80

Gummi myrrha, 172-176 resina myrrha, 172-176

Gum-resins, 155, 156

Guy de Chanlios, receipts for cosmetics in the works of, 26

Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test, 78

Hager's guaiacum reaction, 78-80 tannin test, 69-71

Hair, copper salts for dyeing the, 315, 316 dye, bismuth, 320 black, 321 brown, 321 copper, 322 potassium permanganate, 320 requirements of a good, 314 tannin, 321, 322 Turkish, 316 walnut, 320 dyes, 314-322 double, 321, 322 silver, 321 single, 319, 320 use of, in ancient Rome, 25 green walnut shells for dyeing the, 318 henna for dyeing the, 317, 318 iron salts for dyeing the, 316 lead salts for dyeing the, 315 nitrate of silver for dyeing the, 315 oil, alpine herb, 301 burdock root, 302

Hair oil, cheap, 303, 304 fine, 302, 303 flower, 301 jasmine, 303 macassar, 302 mignonette, 302 neroli, 302 Peru, 302 Peruvian bark, 301, 302 philocome, 303 Portugal, 303 rose, 304 sultana, 304 tonka, 304 vanilla, 303 vaseline, 303 Victoria, 304 violet, 304 ylang-ylang, 303 oils, 300-304 and pomades, fats for, 284 peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the, 318 pomade, fine, 291 for promoting the growth of the, 291 pomades, 285-300 according to the German method, 288-295 coloring substances for, 286 fine French, 286, 287 foundations for, 288, 289 hair oils, and hair tonics, hair dyes and depilatories, 284-323 potassium permanganate for dyeing the, 316 pyrogallic acid for dyeing the, 316 stain, pyrogallic, 320 tonics, 308-314

Hands, chapped, preparations for, 333, 334 wash for the, 334

Hebrews, ancient, perfume-substances known to the, 19

Heliotrope pomade, 291, 292 sachet powder, 257

Heliotropin or piperonal, 193-195 tincture, 232

Henna-flower, use of the, for perfuming, 19

Henna for dyeing the hair, 317, 318

Herb pomade, 292

Herodotus on the mode of gaining olibanum, 19, 20

Heyl's distilling apparatus, 57, 58 extracting apparatus, 54-57

Historical notice of perfumery, 17-30

Hitchin and Mitchan lavender oil, 115

Honey almond paste, 329 water, 310

Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78

Horse fat, 284, 285

Hübl's iodine method, 80, 81

Hufeland's, Dr., tooth-powder, 280 tooth-soap, 282, 283

Huile antique à la rose, 301 au jasmin, 301

Huiles antiques, 301

Hydrogen, peroxide of, for bleaching the hair, 318

Ice pomade, 290

Indian balsam, white, 172

Infusion or maceration, process of, 58-60

Iodine method, Hübl's, 80, 81 test with, 74, 75

Iron salts for dyeing the hair, 316

Italy, perfumes and cosmetics in, 26, 27

Japanese peppermint oil, 132, 133

Jasmin, essence de, 114

Jasmine hair oil, 303 oil or oil of jessamine, 113, 114 pomade, 292

Jessamine, oil of, or jasmine oil, 113, 114

Jockey club sachet, 257

Juniper-berry tincture, 233

Juniper odor, 265 oil, 114

Kabardin musk, 179, 180

Kahol, 317

Karsi, 319

Kienoel, 149

Kohol, 319

Kopher, 19

Kremel's saponification test, 81, 82

Krinochrom, 322

Krummholz oil, 149

Kypros, 19

Lacquer, fumigating, 270, 271

Lait, d'amandes amères, 327

Lait de lys, 328 de rose, 326, 327 virginal, 326

Lanolin pomade, 292, 293

Latschenoel, 149

Lavande Montblanc, essence de, 115

Lavender odor solid perfume, 260 oil, 115, 116 adulterations of, 116 tincture, 235

Lead salts for dyeing the hair, 315 white, 336

Leather, perfumed, 30

Lebonah, 19-21

Lederin, 286

Lemon essence, 217 grass-oil tincture, 235 oil, 116-121 conversion of oil of turpentine into, 189, 190 tincture, 235

Licari oil, linaloë oil, 122 tincture, 235

Lilac oil, 121

Lily milk, 328 of the valley sachet powder, 258 vaseline pomade, 296

Limes, oil of, 121, 122

Linaloë oil, licari oil, 122

Lip-salve, 334, 335

Lip-salves and cold creams, 331-335

Liquid ambar, 172 paints, 340-342 rouge, 340, 341 storax, 168-171

Locock's lotion for the hair, 311

Lotion, dandruff, 312 Locock's, for the hair, 311 shampoo, 311

Lubah, 19-21

Lunar caustic for dyeing the hair, 315

Macassar hair oil, 302 pomade, 292

Mace oil, 124

Maceration or extraction of flowers, 286, 287 or infusion, process of, 58-60

Magnesia, 336

Mandarin oil, 125, 126

Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," 27

Marjoram oils, 122, 123

Maumené's test, 82, 83

Meal, almond, 329 nut, 328

Meals and pastes, perfumed, 328-331

Melanogène, 322

Melon essence, 217

Menthol, 133 pungent, 260

Messina, yield of lemon oil in, 120

Methyl salicylate, 151 artificial production of, 152, 153

Mierzinski's formulæ for bay rum, 313, 314

Mignonette hair oil, 302 oil, 123 pomade, 293 vaseline pomade, 296

Milk, almond, 327 lily, 328 rose, 326, 327 virginal, 326

Millefleurs fumigating pastilles, 270

Mint, curled, oil of, 132

Mirbane, oil of, 199

Mitchan and Hitchin lavender oil, 115

Monfalcone's, D., distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120

Moschus ex vesicis, 180

Moses, the holy oil prescribed by, 21

Mouche or beauty patch, 28

Mouth- and tooth-waters, 274-277 waters and dentifrices, coloring substances for, 272 dentifrices, etc., 272-283

Musk, 31, 178-184 adulterations of, 183, 184 artificial, 182, 183 fumigating pastilles, 269, 270

Musk-rat, American, musk of the, 181, 182 root or sumbul-root tincture, 231 sachet powder, 259 sac, how to open a, 180 sacs, illustrated and described, 178, 179 seed or abelmosk tincture, 230, 231 substitutes for, 181, 182 tincture, 228

Myristicin, 124

Myron, 21

Myrrh, 172-176 adulterations of, 175, 176 oil, 123, 124 tincture, 235 tincture, 230 tooth-tincture, 276

Myrrha electa, 173 in sortis, 173 vulgaris, 173

Myrrhin, 174

Myrrhol, 174

Myrtol, 123, 124

Nail-powder, 334

Neroli hair oil, 302

Neroli oil, adulterations of, 127, 128 or orange-flower oil, 126-129 tincture, 235 petale, 127 pomade, 293 vaseline pomade, 296

New-mown hay fumigating powder, 267, 268 sachet powder, 259

Nitrate of bismuth, 335, 336 of silver for dyeing the hair, 315

Nitrobenzol, 198-200 adulterations of, 199

Nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78

Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, 211-214

Nut meal, 328

Nutmeg oils, 124, 125

Odontine, 275 or tooth-paste, 277, 278 paste, 278

Odor and taste, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67

Odors, compound, 240-245

Oil, castor, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68 fat, adulteration with, of volatile oil, 67, 68 the holy, prescribed by Moses, 21 volatile, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a vegetable substance, 40, 41 for the distillation of, 41-46 Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86 separation of the, and water, 46, 47 testing the odor of, 66 the taste of, 67

Oils, fat, treatment of, with benzoin, 300, 301 oxygenated, behavior of, towards nitroprusside of copper, 76-78 perfuming of, 61, 62 volatile, 33-65 ancient mode of distilling, 24 apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57 characteristics of, 33, 34 concentrated, 35 detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83 distillation of, 39-48 division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80 expression of, 36-39 extraction of, 48-58 extra strong, 35 for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251 localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the production of, 32, 33 modes of obtaining, 36-65 or essential, occurrence of, in plants, 31 patented, 35 principal divisions of, 34 solubility of, 33 storage of, 65 testing of, 66-86 the, used in perfumery, 87-154

Ointment makers, ancient, condition of, 24, 25 rose, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24

Ointments, directions for preparing, in ancient works, 23, 24 foreign, edict against, in Rome, 22 for the different parts of the body used by the Athenians, 22

Oleum abietes, 149 canadensis, 149, 150 amygdalæ amaræ, 87-93 anisi, 93, 94 anthemidis, 99, 100 anthos, 144, 145 cajeputi, 98, 99 carui, 100, 101 caryophylli, 108-110 cassiæ, 103, 104 cedri, 101 cinnamoni ceylonici, 102, 103 citri, 106, 107 eucalypti, 110, 111 australe, 110 florum aurantii, 126-129 fœniculi, 111, 112 gaultheriæ, 151-153 geranii, 112, 113 iridis, 129, 130 iva ranchusa, 150, 151 juniperi, 114 laurocerasi, 101, 102 lavandulæ, 115, 116 ligni rhodii, 145 sandali, 145 sassafras, 145-147 limettæ, 121, 122 limonis, 116-121 macidis, 124 menthæ crispæ, 132 piperitæ, 132-135 pulegii, 135, 136 myrthæ, 123, 134 naphæ, 126-129 neroli, 126-129 nucistæ æthereum, 124 petit grain, 129 pimenta, 136 pini, 149 pumilionis, 149 résédæ, 123 rosemarini, 144, 145 templinum, 149 unonæ, 153, 154

Olibanum in ancient times, 19-21 or frankincense, 176, 177 tincture, 230

Opiat liquide pour les dents, 280, 281

Opopanax, 176 oil, 125 tincture, 235 tincture, 230

Orange, bitter, localities for the cultivation of the, 126 essence, 217 flower oil, or neroli oil, 126-129 water, 128 fumigating powder, 267 peel oil, 125 sachet powder, 259

Oriental flower fumigating essence, 265 pomade, 293

Orris-root oil, 129, 130 liquid, 257 tincture, 235 tincture, 231

Orris stearoptene, 129

Paint, fine red, 337 ordinary red, 336, 337 red stick, 339 white, 337 liquid, 341 stick, 340

Paints, 335-342 fat, 341, 342 liquid, 340-342 preparation of, 337-339 pulverulent, 335, 336 solid, 336-340 use of, by the Roman ladies, 25

Palermo, yield of lemon oil in, 120

Palmarosa oil, geranium oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112

Paper, fumigating, 268

Paraffine, solid perfumes with, 259, 260

Paraguay, manufacture of petit-grain oil in, 129

Paris, annual sale of perfumery in, 29, 30

Paste, honey almond, 329

Pastes and meals, perfumed, 328-331 and powders for the teeth, 277-283

Pastilles, fumigating, 268-270 powders, essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271

Patchouli-camphor, 131

Patchouli extract, 233 leaves, 130, 131 oil, 130-132 tincture, 235 sachet powder, 258

Pate d'amandes au miel, 329

Peach essence, 217 kernels, use of, in the fabrication of bitter-almond oil, 88

Pear essence, 217 ether, 216

Penang patchouli oil, 131

Peppermint oil, adulterants of, 134, 135 oils, 132-136 American, English, and German, mode of distinguishing, 133, 134

Pepper, perfume-substance from, 194

Perfumed meals and pastes, 328-331

Perfume-materials, artificial, 189-218 for the manufacture of perfumery, 31-65 substances, consumption of, by the ancient Romans, 24 consumption of, by the early nations of the Orient, 17 from the animal kingdom, 178-188

Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages, 26, 27

Perfumer, the actual flower garden of the, 32 what the art of the, consists in, 219

Perfumers, French, ancient privileges of, 29, 30

Perfumery, annual sale of, in Paris, 29, 30 historical notice of, 17-30 perfume-substances for themanufacture of, 31-65 the volatile oils used in, 87-154 use of, in England, 30

Perfumes, alcoholic, 219-255 and cosmetics in Italy, 26, 27 dry, 256-261 preparation of animal fats for the reception of, 24 solid, with paraffine, 259, 260

Peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the hair, 318

Peru balsam, 159-166 adulterants of, 162 oil, 161 statistics of, 162 tests for, 162-166 tincture, 229 white, 172 hair oil, 302

Peruvian balsam, white, 160, 161 bark hair oil, 301, 302

Petit-grain oil, 129 tincture, 236

Petroleum-ether, 48 as testing agent for Peru balsam, 163

Philocome hair oil, 303

Pimento oil, or oil of allspice, 136

Pineapple essence, 217 ether, 216

Pine-leaf oil, 149 tincture, 236

Pine odor for atomizing, 265 oil, 149

Piperate, potassium, 194

Piperine, 194

Piperonal, how obtained, 194, 195 or heliotropin, 193-195

Piver's apparatus for maceration, 59, 60 for the absorption process, 63, 64

Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil, 83-86

Plants, families of, richest in volatile oils, 32 occurrence of volatile oils in, 31

Pliny's account of olibanum, 20, 21 "Historia naturalis," 23

Plum essence, 217

Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome, 22, 23

Paraffin ice pomade, 293

Poley oil, 135, 136

Pomade, apple, 289 bear's grease, 289 beef-marrow, 294 benzoin, 290 black wax, 299 blonde wax, 299 bouquet vaseline, 296 brown wax, 299, 300 castor oil, 293 cheap, 293 wax, 290 Densdorf, 290 emperor, 202 extra fine vaseline, 298 family, 290, 291 vaseline, 296 fine, 291, 294 vaseline (yellow), 297 for promoting the growth of the hair, 291 héliotrope, 291, 292 herb, 292 ice, 290 jasmine, 292 lanolin, 292, 293 lily of the valley vaseline, 296 macassar, 292 mignonette, 293 vaseline, 296 neroli, 293 vaseline, 296 oriental, 293 paraffin ice, 293 Portugal, 292 vaseline, 296 princess, 293, 294 quinine, 289, 290 (imitation), 290 resin, 300 Rogers's, for producing a beard, 294 rose, 294 wax, 299 salicylic, 294 stick, manufacture of, 298, 299 strawberry, 291 tonka, 294, 295 vanilla, 295 vaseline (red), 297 (white), 297 foundations for, 296 Victoria, 294 vaseline, 297, 298 violet, 295 Virginia vaseline, 297 walnut, 295

Pomades, 285-300 according to the German method, 288-295 and hair oils, fats for, 284 coloring substances for, 286 designation of the qualities of, 219, 220 foundations for, 288, 289 resin, 298 stick, 298-300 foundations for, 298 vaseline, 295-298 wax, 298

Pommade à l'acacia, 287 à la fleur d'orange, 287 à la rose, 287 à l'héliotrope, 287

Portugal hair oil, 303 oil, 125 tincture, 236 pomade, 292 vaseline pomade, 296

Potassium permanganate for dyeing the hair, 316 hair dye, 320 piperate, 194

Poudre d'Algérine, 281, 282 de corail, 280 de riz à la rose, 329, 330 de riz à la violette, 330 de riz bouquet, 331 de riz héliotrope, 330 de riz ixora, 331 de riz muguet, 330, 331 de riz orange, 330 dentifrice, 279

Powder for coloring intensely red, 336 new-mown hay fumigating, 267, 268 orange fumigating, 267 ordinary fumigating, 266, 267 rose fumigating, 267

Powders, 335, 336 and pastes for the teeth, 277-283 fumigating, 266-268 mixtures for, 336 pastilles, and essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271

Preston salt, 260

Princess pomade, 293, 294

Pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair, 316 hair stain, 320

Quinine pomade, 289, 290 (imitation), 290 tooth-water, 276

Raspberry essence, 218

Rastikopetra, 316

Récamier cream, 333

Red paint, fine, 337 ordinary, 336, 337 stick paint, 339 thyme oil, 147

Reggio, mode of manufacturing bergamot oil in, 118

Réséda sachet powder, 258, 259

Resin pomade, 300 pomades, 298

Resins and balsams, 155-177 definition of, 155 diffusion of, in the vegetable kingdom, 156 elementary constituents of, 155 hard, 155 soft, 155, 156

Rhazes, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26

Rhodium oil, or rosewood oil, 145

Rhusma, 322, 323

Righini's method for testing bergamot oil, 98

Rogers's pomade for producing a beard, 294

Romans, ancient, consumption of perfume-substances by the, 24

Rome, introduction of ointments in, 22 Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in, 22, 23

Rosa alba, 137 damascena, 137

Rose bandoline, 305 flower fumigating essence, 264 fumigating pastilles, 270 powder, 267 hair oil, 304 milk, 326, 327 oil, adulterants of, 142 adulteration of, in Bulgaria 140 determination of spermaceti in, 143, 144 insulation and determination of the stearoptene in, 139, 140 judging the genuineness of, 139 liquid, 139 or attar of roses, 136-144 principal localities of production of, 136 test for, 143 used in Bulgaria, 141 tincture, 236, 237 ointment, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24 pomade, 294 wax pomade, 299

Rosemary oil, 144, 145

Roses, cream of, 333

Rosewood oil, or rhodium oil, 145

Rouge, 336, 337 en feuilles, 340 extravagant use of, in France, 28, 29 liquid, 340, 341 moulding of, into sticks, 339 stick, 339

Russian or Siberian castor, 185, 186 musk, 179, 180

Sachet à la rose, 257 à la violette, 257 aux millefleurs, 258 jockey club, 257 powder, ess-bouquet, 259 Frangipani, 258 héliotrope, 257 lily of the valley, 258 musk, 259 new-mown hay, 259 orange, 259 patchouli, 258 réséda, 258, 259 Victoria, 258 ylang-ylang, 257 powders, 256-259

Safrene, 146

Safrol, 146, 147

St. John's bread or carob, 209

Salicylic pomade, 294

Salts, smelling, 260, 261

Salve, Cyprian, 19

Sandal-wood oil, 145 tincture, 236

Saudarac, 177

Sandaracin, 177

Saponaceous tooth-wash, 283

Saponification number, 81 test, Kremel's, 81, 82

Sassafras oil, 145-147

Sartorius ylang-ylang oil, 154

Schimmel & Co.'s directions for bay rum, 313 directions for the quantitative determination of cinnamaldehyde, 104-106 improved still, 44-46

Separator-funnel, 47

Shampoo liquid, 311, 312 lotion, 311

Siberian or Russian castor, 185, 186 musk, 179, 180

Silver, nitrate of, for dyeing the hair, 315

Single hair dyes, 319, 320

Siphon still, 41, 42

Skin cosmetics, 324-328

Smelling salts, 260, 261

Soap for dentifrices, 273

Solid paints, 336-340

Solubility of volatile oils, 33

Sozodont, 275

Spanish marjoram oil, 122, 123

Spermaceti, determination of, in rose oil, 143, 144

Spike oil, 115

Spinach extract, 239

Spirit of wine, or alcohol, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71

Sponge-process for obtaining lemon oil, 116, 117

Stahl's tooth-tincture, 276

Star anise oil, 94, 95

Stearoptene, 33 of rose oil, 138

Stick paint, white, 340 pomade, manufacture of, 298, 299 pomader, 298-300 foundations for, 298 rouge, 339

Still, for direct steam, 43, 44 improved, 44-46

Still, ordinary, conversion of, into use with steam, 42, 43 siphon, 41, 42

Stohman's test for oil of cloves, 109

Storax, 168-172 American, 172 in grains, 171 liquid, 168-171 adulterations of, 170, 171 ordinary, 171, 172 tincture, 230

Strawberry essence, 218 ether, 216 pomade, 291

Styracin, 170

Styrax calamitus, 171, 172 vulgaris, 171, 172

Styrol, 169, 170

Sultana hair oil, 304

Sumbul root, or musk-root tincture, 231

Tannin hair dye, 321, 322

Taste and odor, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67

Tea hair tonic, 310, 311

Teinture Chinoise (Kohol), 319 Orientale (Karsi), 319

Templin oil, 149

Terpenes, 35, 36 adulterations of volatile oil with, 73

Terpilene, 189, 190

Testing volatile oils, 66-86

Theophrastus's work "On Perfumes," 23

Thibet or Oriental musk, 178, 179

Thymene, 147

Thyme oil, 147, 148 from the field thyme, 147, 148

Thymol, 147, 273 tooth-paste, 278 tooth-powder, 279 tooth-water, 274

Tincture, ambergris, 229 angelica-root, 231 balm-oil, 234 basil-oil, 234 benzoin, 229 bergamot-oil, 234 bitter almond-oil, 234 canango-oil, 234 cassia-oil, 235 castor, 229 cedar-oil, 235 cinnamon-oil, 235 citronella-oil, 235 civet, 228 clove-oil, 235 cumarin, 232 eucalyptus-oil, 235 geranium-oil, 235 heliotropin, 232 juniper-berry, 233 lavender-oil, 235 lemon-grass oil, 235 lemon-oil, 235 licari-oil, 235 musk, 228 root or sumbul-root, 231 seed or abelmosk, 230, 231 myrrh, 230 oil, 235 neroli-oil, 235 olibanum, 230 opopanax, 230 oil, 235 orris-root, 231 oil, 235 patchouli-oil, 235 Peru-balsam, 229 petit-grain-oil, 236 pine-leaf-oil, 236 Portugal-oil, 236 rose-oil, 236, 237 sandal-wood-oil, 236 storax, 230 tolu-balsam, 229, 230 tonka-bean, 231, 232 vanilla, 232 vanillin, 232 verbena-oil, 236 vitivert, 233 oil, 236 wintergreen-oil, 236 ylang-ylang-oil, 236

Tinctures and extracts, 225-237 apparatus for the preparation of, 226, 227

Toilet articles, golden age for, in France, 27-29 arts of the, in ancient times, 18 introduction of the arts of the, into France, 27 vinegar, 326

Tolu balsam, 166-168 new variety of, 167, 168

Tolu balsam, tincture, 229, 230

Toluene, 166, 167

Tonka beans, 191, 192 bean tincture, 231, 232 hair oil, 304 pomade, 294, 295

Tonkin musk, 178, 179 characteristics of, 180, 181

Tooth-and mouth-waters, 274-277 paste or odontine, 277, 278 pastes and tooth-powders, 277-283 powder, Dr. Hufeland's, 280 powders and tooth-pastes, 277-283 preparation of, 279 soap, 283 Dr. Hufeland's, 282, 283 tincture, Dr. Stahl's, 276 tinctures, use of, 276, 277

Trotula, works of, 26

Turkish geranium oil, palmarosa oil, geranium oil, 112 hair dye, 316

Turpentine, oil of, 148-150 conversion of, into lemon oil, 189, 190

United States, adaptation of some districts of, for the cultivation of plants, 33

Valerianic ether, or amyl valerate, 214-216 ethyl ether, 216

Vanilla, 195, 196 hair oil, 303 pomade, 295 tincture, 232

Vanillin, 195-198 adulteration of, 198 preparation of, 196, 197 tincture, 232

Vaseline cold cream, 331 hair oil, 303 pomade, extra fine, 298 fine (yellow), 297 (red), 297 (white), 297 pomades, 295-298 foundations for, 296

Venetian oil of turpentine, 148

Verbena oil, 150 tincture, 236

Vetiver oil, or vitivert oil, 150, 151

Victoria hair oil, 304 pomade, 294 sachet powder, 258 vaseline pomade, 297, 298

Vinaigre de Bully, 324 de toilette, 325 de toilette à l'héliotrope, 325 de toilette à la rose, 324 de toilette à la violette, 324 de toilette orange, 325

Vinegar, aromatic, 325, 326 fumigating, 266 toilet, 326

Vinegars and essences, fumigating, 264-266

Violet-flower fumigating essence, 265

Violet fumigating pastilles, 270 powder, 267 hair oil, 304 mouth-water, 275 oil of, 150 pomade, 295 tooth-powder, 279

Virginal milk, 326

Virginia vaseline pomade, 297

Vitivert-oil tincture, 236

Vitivert, or vetiver oil, 150, 151 tincture, 233

Volatile oil, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a vegetable substance, 40, 41 apparatus for the distillation of, 41-46 Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86 separation of the, and 46, 47 testing the odor of, 66 the taste of, 67 oils, 33-65 ancient method of distilling, 24 apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57 characteristics of, 33, 34 concentrated, 35 detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83 distillation of, 39-48 division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80 expression of, 36-39 extraction of, 48-58 extra strong, 35 for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251 localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the production of, 32, 33 modes of obtaining, 36-65 patented, 35 principal divisions of, 34 solubility of, 33 storage of, 65 testing of, 66-86 the, used in perfumery, 87-154 or essential oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31

Walnut hair dye, 320 pomade, 295 shells, green, for dyeing the hair, 318

Washes, 326-328

Wash for the hands, 334

Water, fumigating, 266 separation of the, and oil, 46, 47

Wax pomade, cheap, 300 pomades, 298

White lead, 336 liquid paint, 341 paint, 337 rose solid perfume, 259 smelling salts, 260, 261 stick paint, 340 thyme oil, 147 tooth-powder, 280

Williams, F. R., utilization of Maumené's test by, 82, 83

Wintergreen oil, 151-153 adulteration of, 153 tincture, 236

Ylang-ylang hair oil, 303 oil, 153, 154 tincture, 236 sachet powder, 257

Yunnan musk, 178, 179

Zibethum, 184, 185

Zinc white, 336

Transcriber's Notes

Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.

Variable use of accents and ligatures has been standardised to ensure compatibility between text and index.

The reference in the index to oleum uonæ has been corrected to oleum unonæ.

The index lists Pomade - cheap - wax at page 390, which does not exist. This has been changed to 290.>

Footnotes 12 and 13, merely repeat footnote 11, so have been removed and all references changed to footnote 11.

Italics are shown thus _italic_ and subscripts thus {2}.