CHAPTER VIII.

ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES.

The alcoholic perfumes, also called "_Extraits d'Odeurs_," are divided into flower-odors, "_Extraits aux fleurs_," and into compound odors, "_Bouquets_." The extracts of French flower pomades form the foundation of all _Extraits d'Odeurs_, all other additions serving the purpose of rendering these odors more pronounced and durable. Hence the art of the perfumer consist in attaining this object as perfectly as possible by the correct composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal. If, for instance, the flower-odor _jasmine_ is to be prepared, it would not be sufficient to simply use the alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for the purpose, since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the air or upon the handkerchief, if the perfumer did not understand how to prevent it. To prevent the rapid volatilization of the scent, to retain it or to fix it, extracts of various perfume-materials, known as tinctures or extracts are used.

The method of preparing the flower-pomades in France has already been described on p. 58 _et seq._ It need here only be added that, according to their quality, these pomades are designated by different numbers by the French manufacturers. There are three qualities, which by some manufacturers are designated as No. 6, No. 18, and No. 30; and by others as No. 12, No. 24 and No. 36, so that No. 6 and No. 12, No. 18 and No. 24, as well as No. 30 and 36 correspond to each other. Pomades No. 6 or No. 12 are not suitable for the preparation of extracts, they containing but little actual extract of flowers, and are generally mixtures touched up with volatile oils. They are almost exclusively used for hair pomades, for which they are well adapted. No. 18 or No. 24 is the quality generally employed by the perfumer for alcoholic extracts. No. 30 or No. 36 is the strongest, and, hence, most expensive flower-pomade, and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers for the finest qualities of _Extraits d'Odeurs_.

When freshly prepared, the above-mentioned flower pomades do not possess the fine odor of the respective flowers, the full aroma being developed only after about six months. The tin-canisters containing them should be provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool, dry cellar. Thus stored, flower-pomade keeps for about five years, with the exception of jasmine and tuberose, which keep only for about two years.

In order to show how the extraction of flower-pomades is effected, we will take, as an example, 2 lbs. of French flower-pomade No. 18 and 3½ quarts of best alcohol.[14] This proportion yields a good and sufficiently strong extract for the preparation of _Extraits d'Odeurs_. It must, of course, be suited to the size of the extracting apparatus, 8 lbs. of flower-pomade and 14 quarts of alcohol being, for instance, taken, though that depends on the quantity of the respective extract required by the perfumer. It is, however, best that the apparatus should be as completely filled as possible so that it contains but little air.

[14] By "best alcohol" is understood rectified alcohol of 95 to 97 per cent.

The gaining of alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades is best effected in a special apparatus, one of the simplest kind for the purpose being shown at Fig. 25.

It consists of two cylinders, _A_ and _A_{1}_ of stout sheet-iron provided with well-fitting lids. Through the centre of each lid passes a vertical iron shaft _a_ and _a_{1}_ which carries in the interior of the apparatus several horizontal arms _b_, _b_{1}_, _b_{2}_. These vertical shafts can be rapidly revolved by the horizontal shaft _c_. Before bringing the flower-pomade into the apparatus, it is melted in the water-bath at a temperature, which, under no conditions, should exceed 88.25° F. The alcohol is also heated to 88.25° F. and added to the melted pomade in the apparatus. The arms with which the vertical shaft is provided, keep the mass in the apparatus in constant motion and prevent the pomade from settling on the bottom. The apparatus is arranged to be driven either by hand or steam, a fly-wheel instead of a pulley, being in the first case provided at _g_.

Where the manufacturer has steam-power at his disposal, the apparatus may be connected with the transmission and allowed to run for 48 to 60 hours during working time. After the expiration of this time, proceed to strain off the finished extract (No. 1) as follows: Over a clean tin vessel stretch a close, white linen cloth, and pour the entire contents of the apparatus upon the latter; the liquid portion runs through the cloth into the vessel, while the pomade remains behind upon the cloth. Finally, the cloth is thoroughly wrung out in order to obtain as much alcoholic extract from the pomade as possible. Bring the extract, No. 1, thus obtained into a glass flask, allow it to stand in a cool cellar for about 48 hours, and then filter it through paper into another glass bottle. This filtering through paper is necessary, even if the extract should appear clear and pure, as, in straining, not only do small particles of fat pass through the cloth, but are also dissolved in the extract. By quietly standing in a cool cellar these particles of fat are separated and appear as white flakes on the bottom and sides of the flask. At a higher temperature, these flakes melt and appear as drops of oil on the bottom of the flask. If filtering were omitted, these particles of fat would be transferred to the extracts and thus cause stains upon handkerchiefs, clothing, etc. If the manufacturer has not a cool cellar at his disposal, the fatty particles are readily separated by placing the flasks containing the extract upon ice, and filtering immediately after separation is complete. The fat then remains upon the filter.

The pomade remaining upon the straining cloth is, without being previously melted, returned to the apparatus, and, after adding the same quantity of alcohol (3½ quarts to every 2 lbs. of pomade), the mixture is again worked as previously described. The straining off and filtering of extract No. 2 is effected in precisely the same manner as extract No. 1.

The pomade upon the cloth is now brought for the third time into the apparatus and, after adding 3½ quarts of alcohol for every 2 lbs. of pomade, subjected to the same treatment as for extracts Nos. 1 and 2. After thoroughly wringing out the cloth containing the pomade, the latter is brought into a clean tin vessel and entirely melted upon the water-bath. The vessel containing the melted pomade is placed in a cool cellar and, if after complete cooling, a liquid appears upon the surface, it is added to the flask containing extract No. 3. This extract, No. 3, is used in place of alcohol when preparing, the next time, extract No. 1 from the same kind of pomade. In this manner, an extract No. 1 of still greater strength is obtained, and by treating the pomade three times with alcohol, it is more completely exhausted. The exhausted pomade can, in conjunction with fresh fat, be used for ordinary hair pomades.

Although the extraction of pomades is somewhat laborious and requires great care, it nevertheless pays the perfumer.

Beyer frères, of Paris, have essentially improved the extracting apparatus previously described, the improvement being shown in Fig. 26. The cylinders _A_ and _A_{1}_ are of copper tinned inside; the lids close air-tight; above the cocks _f_ and _f_{1}_ a perforated piece of tin is placed in the interior of the cylinders; upon this piece of tin a disk of felt may be placed, and thus the extract be drawn off clear. In order to reduce the pomade to a finely divided state, and thus bring it in contact with the alcohol, it is passed through a vermicelli press, _h_, placed upon the cylinder _A_{1}_. The pomade passes, in the form of fine vermicelli, through a sieve in the lower portion of the press into the alcohol contained in the cylinders. The press can be transferred from one extracting vessel to the other. The shafts _a_ and _a_{1}_ also have several horizontal arms like those shown in Fig. 25. Through the contrivances _d_ and _d_{1}_, sitting upon the shaft _c_, the shafts _a_ and _a_{1}_, receive a revolving as well as an up-and-down motion, so that a complete mixture of pomade and alcohol is effected. By this arrangement the pomade completely yields its perfume to the alcohol in one day, and independent of the quicker work, it has the further advantage that the extracts are of better quality in consequence of not remaining for so long a time in contact with the fat.

TINCTURES AND EXTRACTS. In the following pages receipts for the preparation of the principal tinctures and extracts used in the preparation of _Extraits_, as well as in other branches of perfumery, fumigating pastils and powders, dentifrices, mouth-waters, and cosmetics, will be given. The tinctures are prepared from the resins and balsams previously mentioned, as well as from the perfume-substances derived from the animal kingdom. Besides these there are employed for the purpose several spices, leaves, roots, and seeds--such as musk-seeds, angelica root, orris root, patchouli leaves, musk-root or sumbul-root, tonka beans, vanilla, vitivert root, etc.

Most of these substances, if not already found in commerce in the form of a powder, are, before extraction, pulverized, or at least comminuted as much as possible. For a better view the treatment of each substance is given with the respective receipt. The infusions should be stored in a moderately warm room, and thoroughly shaken several times every day. When extraction is finished the product is filtered through paper and is then called _tincture_ or _extract_.

The substances to be used for tinctures should be fresh and genuine, and the alcohol free from fusel oil, since a perfect tincture can only be obtained under these conditions. For the preparation of tinctures Beyer frères have constructed very suitable apparatuses (Figs. 27 and 28). By the vigorous and uninterrupted agitation produced by means of such an apparatus extraction is effected much more rapidly and more completely than by treating the substances to be extracted in ordinary bottles and by shaking with the hand.

The apparatus (Fig. 27) is provided with two boxes for the reception of bottles filled with the substances to be extracted and alcohol. In the accompanying illustration one box is charged with two glass bottles and the other with a copper flask. However, Beyer frères also construct apparatuses which can, at one time, be charged with 6, 8, or 10 glass bottles, so that 6, 8, or 10 different tinctures can be prepared at one operation.

The apparatus (Fig. 28) consists of a round table provided with cavities covered with leather, in which rest bottles of a special shape. The bottles fit exactly in the cavities. The stoppers, with which the bottles are closed, rest against a screw of large diameter placed in the centre of the apparatus. Against this screw the bottles are firmly pressed by means of clamps and screws. The bottles being filled with the substances to be extracted, the table is set in motion, moving alternately from left to right and from right to left.

It is advisable to have always a sufficient supply of tinctures on hand, since their aroma improves by age.

The receipts given in the following pages have been practically tested and can be recommended as perfectly reliable.

_Musk tincture._--Tonkin musk 11 drachms, rose water 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts.

Carefully empty the musk sac into a glass flask, add the rose water and let the flask stand for about 10 days, shaking frequently. Then add the alcohol and let the whole stand for several weeks, shaking frequently. Cut up the empty musk sacs into as small pieces as possible, and, in another bottle, treat them in the same manner as their contents; distilled water, may, however, be used instead of rose water. The object of the water is to soften the musk, which swells up, so that the alcohol can better penetrate into the cellular tissue and absorb the aroma.

The extract from the empty musk sacs is used for cheaper products, or mixed with the extract from the contents of the sacs, according to whether a more or less fine quality of tincture is to be obtained. A still higher yield might, perhaps, be obtained by the use of a machine for comminuting the musk, which grinds the sac to atoms, whereby the cellular tissue is still more completely disintegrated than by cutting up.

_Civet tincture._--Civet 5½ drachms, best quality of alcohol 3 pints.

Civet in its natural state being, with difficulty, soluble in alcohol, triturate it in a mortar to a pulverulent mass together with some dry substance, for instance, whiting or exhausted orris-root powder. The mixture is then brought into a glass flask, the alcohol added, and the whole frequently shaken.

_Ambergris tincture._--Ambergris 5½ drachms, alcohol of the best quality 1 quart.

Ambergris dissolving readily in alcohol, pulverizing is not required, but if it is done, great care should be exercised to prevent loss of this expensive substance. Ambergris is not so much distinguished by its aroma as by its indestructibility, which renders it especially suitable for fixing odors.

_Castor tincture._--Castor 3½ ozs., best quality of alcohol 3 pints.

Comminute the castor as much as possible, bring it into a glass flask and add the alcohol.

Perfume-substances resembling musk having in the last few years increased to an extraordinary degree, the use of castor has been almost entirely abandoned on account of its disagreeable odor. The tincture can only be employed, when very old, for cheap perfumes.

_Benzoin tincture._--Benzoin (Siam) 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 3 quarts.

Convert the benzoin into a coarse powder, bring it into a flask, add the alcohol and shake thoroughly. Solution takes place in 10 to 12 days.

Siam benzoin is the finest and most expensive and is indispensable for _Extraits d'Odeurs_. For cheaper products of perfumery, Sumatra benzoin answers very well.

_Peru-balsam tincture._--Peru balsam 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 5 quarts.

_Tolu-balsam tincture._--Tolu balsam 3 lbs., best quality of alcohol 5 quarts.

Bring the alcohol into a bottle. Tolu balsam cannot be reduced to a powder, hence it is necessary to keep it right cool, whereby it becomes brittle so that it can be cut up with a sharp instrument and a hammer. The pieces detached are rapidly brought into the alcohol, solution taking place in about 14 days. If the alcohol were added to the tolu balsam, the latter would ball together, rendering solution very difficult. Frequent vigorous shaking is necessary.

_Olibanum tincture._--Olibanum 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 4 quarts.

Reduce the olibanum to as fine a powder as possible, bring it into a flask, add the alcohol and shake frequently.

_Opopanax tincture._--Opopanax 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 4 quarts.

Reduce the opopanax to a coarse powder, bring it into a bottle, add the alcohol and shake frequently.

_Storax tincture._--_Storax liquidus_ 4 lbs., alcohol of best quality 5 quarts.

Bring the alcohol first into the flask. Then place the pot containing the storax in warm water until it becomes more liquid, and then pour it in very thin threads into the flask. Shake frequently.

_Myrrh tincture._--Myrrh 1 lb., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts.

_Musk-seed or abelmosk tincture._--Abelmosk grains 21 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2½ quarts.

Reduce the grains to a fine powder, bring the powder into a bottle, and add the alcohol. This _tincture abelmoschi_ fulfils its object as a fixing agent only when about one year old, when it possesses a very fine aroma.

Abelmosk grains are the seeds of a plant (_Abelmoschus moschatus Mönch_; _Hebiscus abelmoschus, L._) indigenous to Central Africa, Arabia, and India. They are reddishgray, kidney-shaped, slightly corrugated on the surface, and of an agreeable musk-like odor. The substance producing the musk odor lies in the seed coat. The odor becomes very pronounced on rubbing the seeds between the hands.

_Angelica root tincture._--Angelica root 16 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts.

Bruise or rasp the root, bring it into a bottle, add the alcohol, and shake frequently.

_Orris-root tincture._--Pulverized orris root of best quality 2 lbs., alcohol of best quality 3 quarts.

Pulverize the root, bring it into a glass flask, and add the alcohol. The powder having a great tendency to ball together, it is necessary to shake five or six times daily, and continue to do so for 14 days. In straining off the tincture, it is advisable to bring the entire contents of the flask upon a close linen cloth stretched over a tin vessel. The orris-root powder remaining upon the cloth after the tincture has run off is returned to the flask, and fresh alcohol added in order to obtain a second extract.

_Musk-root_ or _sumbul-root tincture_.--Sumbul root 1 lb., best quality of alcohol 2½ quarts.

Proceed in the same manner as given under angelica-root tincture.

_Tonka-bean tincture._--Tonka beans 8 ozs., alcohol of best quality 3 pints.

The tonka bean is of great importance for perfumery. The tincture prepared from it has an agreeable, penetrating odor, and in mixing it with other odors, great care has to be exercised, so that the tonka odor is not too prominent. The tincture is prepared as follows: Bring the beans, without comminuting them or removing the white coating adhering to them, into a flask, add the alcohol, and let the whole macerate, with frequent shaking, for about 14 days. Then filter off the fluid. The tincture prepared in this manner only contains the cumarin found as a white coating upon the beans, and is used only for the finest products. Now take the beans from the flask, comminute them, return them to the flask, and add 1¼ quarts of alcohol. This extract gives an excellent tincture suitable for products of medium quality.

_Cumarin tincture._--Cumarin 5½ drachms, best quality of alcohol 1 quart.

_Heliotropin tincture._--The white crystals of heliotropin yield with alcohol a solution clear as water, which is much used in the preparation of _Extrait héliotrope_.

_Vanilla tincture._--Best quality of Bourbon vanilla 5¼ ozs., alcohol of best quality 2 quarts.

To prepare the tincture proceed as follows: Cut the so-called vanilla pods lengthwise and then into as small pieces as possible, and bring the latter together with the alcohol into a flask. Some perfumers triturate the commimuted vanilla with sugar in a porcelain mortar, whereby the small-seed bodies contained in the pod are ground up, and a better yield is claimed to be obtained. Though by this trituration a tincture of a darker color may be obtained, the color alone is by no means a proof of the strength of the tincture. Care must be had to bring the white, downy crystals of vanillin found upon the vanilla pods into the flask.

_Vanillin tincture._--Vanillin 1½ drachms, alcohol 2 quarts.

_Vitivert tincture._--Vitivert rhizome 8 ozs., best quality of alcohol 2 quarts.

Reduce the rhizome to as fine a powder as possible, bring the latter into a flask, add the alcohol and shake frequently.

_Juniper-berry tincture._--Juniper berries 2 lbs., best quality of alcohol 5 pints.

The juniper berries (the fruits of _Juniperus communis, L._) are comminuted, and the alcohol is poured over them.

_Patchouli extract._[15]--Patchouli leaves 1 lb., best quality of alcohol 5 pints.

[15] Compare patchouli oil, p. 130.

Bring the pulverized leaves into a bottle and add the alcohol. The tincture from patchouli leaves being dark-green is not suitable for the preparation of _Extraits_, since white substances are colored grass-green by it; only traces of the tincture may be used for the purpose of giving the _Extrait patchouli_ a greenish shade of color. The tincture may, however, be utilized for milled patchouli soaps.

From many of the above-mentioned perfume-substances, which serve for the preparation of tinctures and are not entirely soluble in alcohol, but leave a residue after extraction, a second infusion may be made. Musk, castor, and the resins dissolve completely, there remaining behind only the impurities and any mineral constituents present which possess no aroma. But all residues from woods, fruits, etc., are suitable for a second extraction, most of the tinctures thus obtained being quite aromatic, and, as will be seen later on in giving receipts, can be very advantageously utilized. For the second extraction less alcohol has to be taken than for the first.

Since many perfumers consider it of greater advantage and more suitable to first dissolve the volatile oils used for the _Extraits d'Odeurs_, and to prepare a tincture in this manner, several receipts for the purpose are given below. In the receipts for perfumery given in the next following sections, the volatile oils are specified as such, and not as tinctures, because the _Extraits d'Odeurs_ containing evidently much non-saturated alcohol, the volatile oils will in time completely dissolve in them. An exception to this rule might be ylang-ylang oil and perhaps orris-root oil. Ylang-ylang oil is soluble with difficulty, even in very strong alcohol, and if directly used for the _Extrait_, the latter remains turbid for weeks, and frequently, especially in winter, does not become clear, notwithstanding repeated filtering. However, by preparing in good time an ylang-ylang tincture this evil is avoided.

_Almond-oil (bitter) tincture._--Bitter almond oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol[16] 1 quart.

[16] For all the tinctures, 95 to 97 per cent. alcohol of the best quality is to be used.

_Balm-oil tincture._--Balm oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Basil-oil tincture._--Basil oil 14 drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Bergamot-oil tincture._--Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., alcohol 4 quarts.

_Canango-oil tincture._--Canango oil (Java), 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart.

_Cassia-oil tincture._--Cassia oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart.

_Cedar-oil tincture._--Cedar oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart.

_Cinnamon-oil tincture._--Ceylon cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Citronella-oil tincture._--Citronella oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart.

_Clove-oil tincture._--Oil of cloves 11 drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Eucalyptus-oil tincture._--Eucalyptus oil 1 oz., alcohol 1½ quarts.

_Geranium-oil tincture._--Palma rosa oil 14 drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Lavender-oil tincture._--Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart.

_Lemon-grass-oil tincture._--Lemon-grass oil 1 oz., alcohol 1 quart.

_Lemon-oil tincture._--Oil of lemons 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart.

_Licari-oil tincture._--Licari oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Myrrh-oil tincture._--Myrrh oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Neroli-oil tincture._--Neroli oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Opopanax-oil tincture._--Opopanax oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Orris-root-oil tincture._--Orris-root oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Patchouli-oil tincture._--Patchouli oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Petit-grain-oil tincture._--Petit-grain oil 11 drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Pine-leaf-oil tincture._--Pine-leaf oil[17] 14 drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

[17] By pine-leaf oil is understood pine oil or dwarf-pine oil. See p. 149.

_Portugal-oil tincture._--Portugal oil 1¾ ozs., alcohol 1 quart.

_Sandal-wood-oil tincture._--Sandal-wood[18] oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

[18] The better quality of oil from the East Indian wood is to be used.

_Verbena-oil tincture._--Verbena oil 11 drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Vitivert-oil tincture._--Vitivert oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Wintergreen-oil tincture._--Wintergreen oil 5½ drachms, alcohol 1 quart.

_Ylang-ylang-oil tincture._--Ylang-ylang oil 11 drachms, alcohol 3 quarts.

_Rose-oil tincture._--Rose oil (Turkish)[19] 1¾ ozs., alcohol 6½ quarts.

[19] Bulgarian rose oil is generally designated "Turkish rose oil."

Rose oil, if directly added to the alcohol, dissolves with difficulty and incompletely. By the following method the object is, however, readily accomplished:--

Bring about 5½ ozs. of pulverized sugar into a capacious porcelain mortar, add the rose oil and mix intimately with the pestle. Then pour the thickly-fluid mass through a glass funnel into a glass flask and rinse the mortar with alcohol until the prescribed 6½ quarts of the latter have been brought into the flask. Frequent shaking accelerates the complete solution of the rose oil.

EXTRAITS AUX FLEURS. We now proceed to give receipts for _Extraits d'Odeurs_, and consider first the flower odors, _Extraits aux fleurs_. _By extracts are thereby understood the odors extracted from French flower pomades._ Any coloring matter required is mentioned under the respective receipts.

Great care has to be exercised in the preparation of _Extraits_ and _Bouquets_, and special attention must be paid that they actually represent the odor whose name they bear.

_Extrait acacia._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ 750 drachms, bergamot oil 1, lavender oil 1, eucalyptus oil ½, orris-root tincture 125, musk-root tincture 12½, ambergris tincture 2½, civet tincture 1, musk tincture 1.

_Extrait cassie._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 500 drachms, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125, bergamot oil 5, orris-root tincture 75, tinctures of vitivert and angelica each 12½, tinctures of musk and ambergris each 2½.

_Extrait héliotrope_ (_Receipt No. 1_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 750 drachms, and from _Pomm. Rose_ 75, bergamot oil 2½, rose-geranium oil 1½, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, heliotropin tincture 50.

_Extrait héliotrope_ (_Receipt No. 2_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 500 drachms, and from _Pomm. Rose_ and _Pomm. Orange_ 50 each, bergamot oil 5, clove oil 2½, vanilla tincture 50, orris-root tincture 100, musk-root tincture 25, tinctures of musk and civet 5 each, benzoin tincture 10, Peru-balsam tincture 5.

_Extrait jacinthe._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jacinthe_ 750 drachms, and from _Pomm. Acacia_ 100; bergamot oil 5, clove oil 1, storax tincture 2½, musk-root tincture 12½, tinctures of musk and ambergris 1½ each.

_Extrait jasmin._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 500 drachms, and from _Pomm. Orange_ 100; civet tincture 1½, ambergris tincture 1, sandal-wood oil 3 drops.

_Essence of the odor of linden blossoms._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ 250 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 50, and from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 100; pure camomile oil 1½, oil of lemons 2½, ambergris tincture 5, civet tincture 3.

_Extrait jonquille._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 750 drachms, lavender oil ½, bergamot oil 2½, Ceylon cinnamon oil ½, storax tincture 1½, tinctures of abelmosk and angelica each 5, musk tincture 1½, civet tincture 1.

_Extrait magnolia._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 150 drachms, from _Pomm. Acacia_ 250, and from _Pomm. Rose_ 125, balm oil 2½, tinctures of vanilla and cumarin each 12½, civet tincture 1½, musk tincture 2½.

_Extrait muguet_ (_lily of the valley_).--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 750 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 200, and from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. Orange_ each 100; bergamot oil 7½ drachms, oil of lemons 2½, angelica oil 3 drops, storax tincture 5 drachms, musk tincture 2½, vanilla tincture 5, ambergris tincture 2, ylang-ylang tincture 100, wintergreen tincture 25, bitter-almond-oil tincture 2½.

_Extrait fleurs de Mai_ (_May flowers_).--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Réséda_, _Pomm. Rose_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_, each 75 drachms; from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 125, and from _Pomm. Orange_ 50; bergamot oil 7½, Ceylon cinnamon oil 2½, orris-root tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris and musk, each 15, ylang-ylang tincture 25.

_Extrait ixora._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125 drachms, from _Pomm. Cassie_ and _Pomm. Réséda_, each 175; bergamot oil 5, orris-root tincture 125, musk tincture 10, benzoin tincture 25.

_Extrait Orange._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 500 drachms, from _Pomm. Acacia_ 100; Portugal oil 7½, tinctures of musk and ambergris, each 1.

_Extrait white rose._--Rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 500 drachms, bergamot oil 1¼, sandal-wood oil 3 drops, nutmeg oil 1 drop, musk tincture ¾ drachm, civet tincture ½ drachm.

_Extrait rose v. d. centifolie._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Rose_ 500 drachms, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 500, rose-geranium oil 10, musk tincture, 2½, sandal-wood oil, 7 drops.

_Extrait violette._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Violette_ 500 drachms, and from _Pomm. Cassie_ 250; orris-root tincture 125, musk tincture 1½, sandal-wood oil 3 drops.

To give the _extrait violette_ an apparently greater concentration, it is compounded with a green coloring tincture. The latter may be prepared by bringing comminuted dried spinach leaves into a bottle and pouring 96 per cent. alcohol over them. The result is a handsome green coloring matter; but care must be taken not to add too much of it to the _extrait_, as otherwise it might stain the handkerchief, etc.[20]

[20] This spinach extract unfortunately bleaches very rapidly when exposed to light, and the extraits colored with it acquire a dirty-brown color. Hence it is recommended to use the "green tincture," which can be purchased from the larger manufactories of volatile oils.

_Extrait de violette de Parme._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Violette_ 750 drachms, orris-root oil and bergamot oil each 2½, tinctures of musk, ambergris, and bitter-almond oil each 1½.

This _extrait_ may also be colored slightly green.

_Extrait tubereuse._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 500 drachms, bergamot oil 2½, Ceylon cinnamon oil ½, musk tincture 1½, storax tincture 2½.

_Extrait réséda._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 750 drachms, and from _Pomm. Violette_ 100; bergamot oil 7½, rose-geranium oil 2½, clove oil 1½, musk tincture 2, ambergris tincture 1.

A trace of the above-mentioned green coloring substance may be added.

_Extrait ylang-ylang._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Acacia_, each 250 drachms, bergamot oil 7½, angelica oil 2½, ylang-ylang tincture 500, abelmosk tincture 25, tonka-bean extract 7½, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture 2½.

COMPOUND ODORS (BOUQUETS). _Extrait Edelweiss._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 250 drachms each, and from _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. Jacinthe_ 125 each, bergamot oil 10, basil oil 5, tinctures of musk and ambergris each 5, bitter-almond-oil tincture 2½, tinctures of angelica and vitivert each 25.

_Extrait ess-bouquet._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. Cassie_ each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 325, from _Pomm. Rose_ 75, and from _Pomm. Orange_ 250; bergamot oil 40, Ceylon cinnamon oil and clove oil each 5, French rose-geranium oil 10, sandal-wood oil 2½, licari oil 8, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 75, orris-root tincture 50, tinctures of ambergris and civet each 10, musk tincture 15, musk-root tincture 37½, benzoin tincture 15.

_Extrait spring flower._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. Cassie_, _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Tubereuse_, and _Pomm. Violette_ each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 50, from _Pomm. Réséda_ 100, and from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Pomm. Acacia_ each 50; neroli oil 2½, bergamot oil 5, vitivert oil ½, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 50, musk-root tincture 12½, musk tincture 5, civet tincture 2½, orris-root tincture 25.

_Extrait bouquet Eugenie._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 75, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 125; bergamot oil 10, licari oil 2½, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 75, musk-root tincture 10, cumarin tincture 7½, orris-root tincture 75, tinctures of angelica and musk each 10, ambergris tincture 5.

_Extrait excelsior._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 200 drachms and from _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ each 100; oils of lemon and rose geranium each 4, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 60, orris-root tincture 50, musk tincture 5, abelmosk tincture 10, opopanax tincture 5, storax tincture 1.

_Extrait Frangipani._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 150 drachms, and from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 50; French rose geranium oil 5, cassia oil 2, licari oil 3, sandal-wood oil 1, orris-root tincture 100, angelica tincture 8, musk tincture 5, storax tincture 5.

_Extrait jockey club._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 150 drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 35, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 150, and from _Pomm. Jonquille_ and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ each 30; bergamot oil 8, Ceylon cinnamon oil 2, Portugal oil 6, cedar oil 1, clove oil 2, tincture of rose oil from Turkish rose oil and of orris root each 40, musk-root tincture 8, musk tincture 10, ambergris tincture 3, vanilla tincture 5.

_Extrait opopanax._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 250 drachms, and from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 125; opopanax oil 10, Ceylon cinnamon oil 5, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 125, opopanax tincture 25, orris-root tincture 62½, musk tincture 4, ambergris tincture 5.

_Extrait patchouly._--Extract No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ 100 drachms, patchouli oil 4, clove oil and Portugal oil, each 2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 40, orris-root tincture 30, musk-root tincture 10, vitivert tincture 10, patchouli tincture 1.

_Extrait millefleurs._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 250 drachms, from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 100, _Pomm. Rose_ 75, _Pomm. Acacia_ 100, _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ each 150, and _Pomm. Cassie_ 100; bergamot oil 20, rose geranium oil and Portugal oil each 15, oils of angelica and sandal wood, each 5, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 150, orris-root tincture 250, vanilla tincture 15, musk-root tincture 35, tolu-balsam tincture 10, tinctures of storax and patchouli each 5, musk tincture 30, civet tincture 25.

_Extrait bouquet Victoria._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Rose_ 200 drachms, _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_, each 100, _Pomm. Jasmin_ 300, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 200; lemon oil 20, verbena oil 5, French rose geranium oil 10, musk tincture 20, tinctures of civet and ambergris each 5, musk-root tincture 40, tolu-balsam tincture 20, orris-root tincture 150.

_Extrait kiss-me-quick._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. Jonquille_ each 100 drachms, and _Pomm. Jasmin_ 40; bergamot oil 4, oil of lemons 2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 30, tinctures of vitivert and angelica 8, ambergris tincture 4, civet tincture 2, musk tincture 1.

_Extrait mogadore._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Jonquille_ and _Pomm. Acacia_, each 50, from _Pomm. Orange_ 40; bergamot oil 6, oil of lavender 1, French rose geranium oil 2, tinctures of musk, ambergris, tolu balsam, and cumarin, each 10, tincture of orris root 50.

_Extrait bouquet Prince Albert._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 150 drachms, from _Pomm. Tubereuse_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Cassie_ each 50, _Pomm. Rose_ 25, neroli oil 2, bergamot oil 4, musk tincture 2, tonka bean extract 4, angelica tincture 10, ambergris tincture 2.

_Extrait musc._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. Cassie_ each 50 drachms; clove oil 4, cassia oil 2, tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each 10, opopanax tincture 4, musk tincture 30, civet tincture 5, orris-root tincture 50.

_Extrait new-mown hay._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 200 drachms, _Pomm. Rose_ 40, _Pomm. Cassie_ 80, _Pomm. Acacia_ 40; French rose geranium oil 4, bergamot oil 10, myrrh oil 5, tonka-bean extract 30, vitivert tincture 10, musk-root tincture 16, benzoin tincture 4.

_Extrait chypre._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Orange_ 60 drachms, _Pomm. Jasmin_ 40, _Pomm. Cassie_ 110, _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 40; French rose geranium oil 6, bergamot oil 2, cedar oil ⅗, benzoin tincture 4, orris-root tincture 30, musk tincture 5, civet tincture 4, abelmosk tincture 10.

_Extrait maréchal._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Pomm. Orange_ each 200 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 75; oils of sandal wood and cloves each 5, Portugal oil 10, cedar oil 1, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 100, orris-root tincture 75, vitivert tincture 25, civet tincture 10, musk tincture 20, bitter almond oil tincture 1½.

_Extrait mousseline._--Extracts No. 1 from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 250 drachms, _Pomm. Rose_ 150, and _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Héliotrope_, and _Pomm. Cassie_, each 125; French rose geranium oil 12½, oil of cloves 10, cassia oil 5, wintergreen oil 1, orris-root tincture 125, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 100, musk tincture 12½, civet tincture 10, vitivert tincture 37½, abelmosk tincture 25.

In compiling the abundant choice of receipts for _Extraits d'Odeurs_ given above, the golden mean has been chosen in regard to the quality of these odors, they, when carefully prepared, giving, at a moderate cost of manufacture, a product which in most cases will satisfy the demands of lovers of perfumes. To enable the perfumer, however, to satisfy the highest demands attention is called to, and a brief explanation given of, the so-called "_Extraits triple concentrés_."

For the preparation of these stronger products, the employment of a stronger foundation, _i. e._, of more highly saturated extracts from French flower pomades, is required. For this purpose the French perfumers prepare, under No. 30, flower pomades of all odors which are exclusively used for concentrated _Extraits_. They are, of course, correspondingly higher in price than those prepared from No. 18, which have previously been treated of.

The method of preparing the extracts from these pomades, No. 30, is the same as previously described, the proportion of pomade to alcohol being also the same; hence for 2 lbs. of pomade 1¾ quarts of alcohol are to be used.

The proportions of volatile oils and tinctures given in the above receipts are also to be retained. The stronger extracts from the flower pomades are the only measure in the preparation of the _Extraits triple concentrés_, and such must be the case since the object of the concentration of the _Extraits_ is thus completely attained by the greater prominence of the flower odors from the _Extraits d'Odeurs_.

For the preparation of _Extraits d'Odeurs_, the French perfumers also manufacture a concentrated flower extract of the various odors. This extract is simply dissolved in alcohol, the solution being effected immediately, so that this method of preparing _Extraits d'Odeurs_ is the simplest imaginable. However, the price of such extract (1000 francs = $200 and more per kilogramme = 2.2 lb.) is a considerable item, so that most perfumers will prefer the extracts from the flower pomades as previously described.

EXTRAITS D'ODEURS, QUALITY II.--In addition to the _fine_ extracts given in the preceding section, a small selection of quite cheap receipts for quality II of such extracts is here given, the extracts No. 2 offering sufficient material for their preparation. In the introduction to the previous section, attention has been called to the fact that quite useful tinctures may be prepared from substances leaving behind solid residues, there being also on hand the second extract from the flower pomades.

Besides the alcohol, such tinctures and extracts cost only the small trouble of treatment. For this second quality only half the quantity of volatile oils prescribed for the best quality is used. Such tinctures, from which a second extract cannot be had, may, for this purpose, be diluted one-half with alcohol, which need not be of the best quality, thus preparing a second quality of them.

The process to be followed is illustrated by a selection from the first _Extrait_ receipts which have been converted into _Extraits_ of quality II.

_Extrait violette II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Violette_ 500 drachms, from _Pomm. Cassie_ 250; bergamot oil 2½, musk tincture No. 2, 1½, ambergris tincture No. 2, ¾, diluted with alcohol ¾, bitter almond oil tincture No. 2, 1, orris-root tincture No. 2, 125.

Add a small quantity of green coloring substance.

_Extrait rose II._--Extract No. 2 from _Pomm. Rose_ 500 drachms, African rose geranium oil 4, sandal-wood oil 3 drops, musk tincture No. 2, 2½ drachms, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 250 drachms diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, which may be called rose tincture No. 2.

_Extrait réséda II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 750 drachms and from _Pomm. Violette_ 100, bergamot oil 3½, African rose-geranium oil 1, clove oil 1, musk tincture No. 2, 2, ambergris tincture ½ diluted with alcohol ½.

_Extrait ylang-ylang II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Orange_, and _Pomm. Acacia_ each 250 drachms; bergamot oil 3½, angelica oil 1¼, ylang-ylang tincture 250 diluted with the equal quantity of alcohol, abelmosk No. 2, 25, tonka-bean extract No. 2, 7½, musk tincture No. 2, 4, ambergris tincture 1¼ diluted with the same quantity of alcohol.

_Extrait new-mown hay II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Réséda_ 500 drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 100, from _Pomm. Cassie_ 200 and _Pomm. Acacia_ 100; palma rosa oil 5, bergamot oil 12½, myrrh oil 6, tonka-bean extract No. 2, 75, vitivert tincture No. 2, 25, musk-root tincture No. 2, 40, benzoin tincture 5 diluted with the same quantity of alcohol.

_Extrait chypre II._--Extracts No. 2, from _Pomm. Orange_ 150 drachms, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, _Pomm. Cassie_ 275, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 100; palma rosa oil 7½, bergamot oil 2½, cedar oil ¾, orris-root tincture No. 2, 75, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, abelmosk tincture No. 2, 25, civet tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5, benzoin tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5.

_Extrait ess. bouquet II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. Cassie_ each 100, from _Pomm. Jasmin_ 375, _Pomm. Rose_ 75, _Pomm. Orange_ 250; bergamot oil 20, Ceylon cinnamon oil and clove oil each 2½, African rose geranium oil 5, sandal-wood oil 1¾, licari oil 2, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 37½ diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, orris-root tincture No. 2, 50, ambergris tincture 5 diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, civet tincture 5 diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 15, musk-root tincture No. 2, 37½, benzoin tincture 7½ diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol.

_Extrait muguet II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jonquille_ 750 drachms, _Pomm. Jasmin_ 100, _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 200 and _Pomm. Acacia_ and _Pomm. Orange_ each 100; bergamot oil 3½, oil of lemons 1¼, angelica oil 2 drops, storax tincture 2½ drachms diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, musk tincture No. 2, 2½, vanilla tincture 5, ambergris tincture 1, diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol, ylang-ylang tincture 50 diluted with alcohol 50, wintergreen tincture 12½ diluted with alcohol 12½, bitter-almond oil 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼.

_Extrait bouquet Victoria II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Rose_ 100 drachms, _Pomm. Orange_ and _Pomm. Tubereuse_ each 50; _Pomm. Jasmin_ 150, _Pomm. Héliotrope_ 100; lemon oil 5, verbena oil 1½, African rose geranium oil 2½, musk tincture No. 2, 10, musk-root tincture No. 2, 20, orris-root tincture No. 2, 75, civet tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼, ambergris tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼, tolu-balsam tincture 5 diluted with alcohol 5.

_Extrait spring flower II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Jasmin_, _Pomm. Cassie_, _Pomm. Orange_, _Pomm. Jonquille_, _Pomm. Tubereuse_ and _Pomm. Violette_, each 100 drachms, from _Pomm. Rose_ 50, _Pomm. Réséda_ 100, and _Pomm. Héliotrope_ and _Acacia_, each 50; neroli oil 1¼, bergamot oil 2½, vitivert oil 13 drops, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 25 drachms, diluted with alcohol 25, musk-root tincture No. 2, 12½, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, orris-root tincture No. 2, 25, civet tincture 1¼ diluted with alcohol 1¼.

_Extrait ixora II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 125 drachms, from _Pomm. Cassie_ and _Pomm. Réséda_ each 175; bergamot oil 2½, orris-root tincture No. 2, 125, musk tincture No. 2, 10, benzoin tincture 12½ diluted with alcohol 12½.

_Extrait Frangipani II._--Extracts No. 2 from _Pomm. Cassie_ 375 drachms, and _Pomm. Jasmin_ 125; African rose geranium oil 12, cassia oil 2½, licari oil 3½, sandal-wood oil 1¼, orris-root tincture No. 2, 250, angelica tincture No. 2, 20, musk tincture No. 2, 12½, storax tincture 6 diluted with alcohol 6½.

_Cologne water, eau de Cologne._--Owing to its excellent properties, Cologne water is, without doubt, one of the most popular perfumes. It was invented early in the eighteenth century, and is perhaps the only perfume which has kept its reputation for so long a time. It was formerly employed as a medicine in all imaginable diseases, and even now is in some cases successfully used in slight ailments, such as headache, nausea, etc.

The success and reputation of Cologne water are the natural results of a good product prepared with a thorough knowledge of the subject. However, in order to be enabled to impart to Cologne water its generally known excellent qualities, it is necessary to have a thorough knowledge of the materials used, as well as to understand the method of fabrication, and the proper treatment of all.

For the preparation of actually good Cologne water employment of the best materials is the first condition. The alcohol must be pure, _i. e._, free from fusel oil, and 95 to 96 per cent. strong, so as to effect a ready and complete solution of the volatile oils. The latter also should be of the best quality and proper age, _i. e._, neither too young nor too old. If too young or too recently distilled, the aroma is not thoroughly developed, and if, on the other hand, too old, they have lost the greater portion of their aroma, are thickly fluid, acquire a dark coloration, and are finally converted into a resinous substance in which condition they are entirely unfit for finer products. A cool and dry cellar is required for storing volatile oils, and they must also be protected from air and sunlight.

Regarding the durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of Cologne water, the following may be said:--

_Bergamot oil_ is quite durable; in well-closed bottles stored in a cool cellar it keeps quite well for 3 to 4 years. _Oil of lemons_ is, however, very sensitive, and has to be especially protected against heat, by which it is readily decomposed and, so to say, turns sour. Freshly-distilled _neroli oil_ should never be used, it acquiring its proper aroma only after being stored for about 2 years; on the other hand, it should not be too old. When 6 to 8 years old, it shows a tendency to rancidity, which can, however, be prevented by mixing it at the proper time with an equal quantity of alcohol of the best quality. _Petit-grain oil_ is apt to spoil when kept for several years, and hence it is not advisable to have too large a supply of it on hand. Besides the French variety of this volatile oil, there has existed for several years past another kind, namely the _Paraguay petit-grain oil_, which is about one-half cheaper than the French. While some consider both oils as equally good, the French product no doubt deserves the preference. Of _lavender oil_ only the best French oil, especially made in France for the preparation of _Eau de Cologne_, should be used. The price of the English Mitcham lavender oil, being six times that of the French oil, is simply excessive. Of _rosemary oil_, an especially fine quality for Cologne water, which can be highly recommended, is also manufactured in France. Of _balm oil_ only the best German product should be taken. The three varieties of volatile oils last mentioned keep for years, especially when kept in hermetically-closed bottles in a cool place protected from the sun.

Rose water and orange-blossom water also need careful treatment, the bottles containing them requiring to be well stoppered and kept in a cool place. These waters being liable to spoil, the supply of them should be renewed from year to year. As regards the compounding of the volatile oils, it is advisable to mix them in a capacious glass flask, add at least an equal weight of alcohol of the best quality, shake thoroughly, let the mixture stand about 14 days, and then in the apparatus incorporate it with the required quantity of alcohol.

When the alcohol and volatile oils are intimately mixed, the mixture is allowed to stand quietly for about 14 days, when solution of the volatile oils will be complete. Now add, with vigorous agitation, the rose water and the orange-blossom water, and let the whole stand quietly to become clear.

Cologne water thus carefully prepared answers all demands. Special attention is here called to the fact that all manipulation by the addition of fixing or conspicuous substances is injudicious. An addition of tincture of musk or civet should particularly be avoided. Nervous people immediately detect such additions, even if present only in very small quantities, and in most cases refuse the Cologne water containing them.

Experience having shown that all alcoholic perfumes develop their proper aroma only after storing for some time, provision must be made to have always a sufficient supply of Cologne water on hand. It is best to keep it in large glass balloons in a cool cellar. Wooden vessels are impracticable on account of their permeability and other evils. Metallic vessels, if used, should be tinned. Vessels defective in this respect, or tinned with tin containing lead, exert an injurious effect upon the aroma of the water. In the latter case, lead is dissolved, even if only in small quantities, and a dirty precipitate injurious to the odor of the Cologne water is formed.

The filtering of the Cologne water is best effected through white filtering paper and a glass funnel; the paper, however, should not have been bleached with chlorine, the odor of the latter being readily perceived and having an injurious effect upon the aroma of the water. Filtering should be avoided as much as possible by carefully decanting off the clear water and filtering the sediment only. Filtering through charcoal, magnesia, or other clarifying agents, should not be made use of for fine perfumes, their odor being injured by all such means.

In the following a selection of receipts for Cologne water is given; it is, however, especially mentioned that only good, pure materials must be used even for the inferior qualities. A receipt for the now fashionable "Maiglöckchen Eau de Cologne" is also given.

_Cologne water, quality I._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 14.11 ozs., bergamot oil 15, neroli oil 4.23, French extra lavender oil 1.05 oz., rosemary oil 0.7, best German balm oil 0.42; mix thoroughly, and after 14 days add best orange-blossom water and rose water each 2.64 quarts. Mix again thoroughly, and then let stand until wanted for use.

_Cologne water, quality II._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 10.58 ozs., bergamot oil 12.34, neroli oil 1.76, French extra lavender oil 0.8, rosemary oil 0.63, finest German balm oil 0.35, French petit-grain oil 0.8; mix thoroughly, and after 14 days add best orange-blossom water and rose water each 2.64 quarts. Mix again thoroughly, and then let stand until wanted for use.

_Cologne water, quality III._--Bring into a large glass balloon 95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the best quality 7.9 gallons, lemon oil 7.05 ozs., bergamot oil 7.94, Portugal oil 3.52, French petit-grain oil 1.58, finest rosemary oil 0.52, lavender oil 0.7, orange-blossom water and rose water each 1.58 quarts, distilled water 2.11 quarts. Proceed in the same manner as given for qualities I and II.

_Cologne water, quality IV._--Bring into a large glass balloon alcohol free from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, lavender oil 2.64 ozs., Portugal oil 2.64, petit-grain oil 0.7, rosemary oil 0.52, bergamot oil 3.52, lemon oil 3.52, distilled water 7.9 quarts. If this quality, after standing for some weeks, should not become clear, use some magnesia in filtering, or use less water.

_Cologne water, quality V._--Bring into a glass balloon alcohol free from fusel oil 7.9 gallons, Portugal oil 0.88 oz., rosemary oil 0.88, lavender oil, bergamot oil, and lemon oil each 1.76. After standing for 14 days, add 7.9 quarts of distilled water. Proceed in the same manner as given for quality IV.

_Maiglöckchen Eau de Cologne._--95 to 96 per cent. alcohol of the finest quality 10.56 quarts, bergamot oil and lemon oil each 3.52 ozs., neroli oil 0.7, French extra lavender oil 0.21, rosemary oil 0.14, best German balm oil 0.7, ylang-ylang oil 0.17, _maiglöckchen_ (lily of the valley) extract 2.11 pints.

Dissolve the 0.17 oz. of ylang-ylang oil by itself in 0.8 pint of alcohol of the best quality, and when the solution is entirely clear add it to the rest in the balloon. After standing for 14 days add carefully orange-blossom water and rose water each 1.05 pints; shake thoroughly and let the mixture stand quietly until perfectly clear.

_Various other receipts for Cologne water._--I. Bergamot oil 2 drachms, oil of lemon 2 drachms, oil of origanum 6 drops, oil of rosemary 20 drops, alcohol 1 pint, orange-flower water 1 oz.

II. Bergamot oil 14 parts, citron oil 34, oil of neroli (petale) 20, oil of neroli (bigarade) 7, rosemary oil 14, grape spirit 6000.

III. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oils of rosemary, bergamot, cedrat, and lemon each 2 drachms, oil of neroli 1 drachm, water (warm) 2 pints; mix, filter until clear.

IV. Cologne spirits 3 quarts, oil of lemon 5 drachms, oil of bergamot 4 drachms, Portugal oil 3¾ drachms, neroli oil ¾ drachm, petit-grain oil and rosemary oil each ½ drachm, lavender oil 25 drops, oil of cloves 6 drops, extract _Pomm. jasmine_ 4 ozs., water (warm) 32 ozs.; mix.

V. Cologne spirits 1 gallon, rosemary oil ½ oz., lemon oil 1 oz., lavender oil 1½ ozs., cinnamon oil 20 drops, warm water 1 quart; mix.

_Eau de Lavande._--For _eau de lavande_, but two receipts are given: _Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée_ and _eau de Lavande double_, the former being a very agreeable perfume for toilet purposes, and is used as an addition to wash-water as well as to baths and for fumigating. On account of its balsamic constituents, _eau de Lavande ambrée_ in being manufactured cannot be mixed with water, as the latter would produce an emulsion which cannot be removed. _Eau de Lavande double_ is used for the toilet, in the wash-water, or the bath. It is very popular, its action upon the skin and nerves being refreshing and stimulating.

_Eau de vie de Lavande double ambrée._--Alcohol of the best quality 5.18 quarts, best quality of lavender oil 3.52 ozs., French rose geranium oil 0.7, oils of cassia, bergamot, lemon, and French petit grain each 0.88, Peru balsam 5.29, orris-root tincture 2.11 quarts, ambergris tincture 5.29 ozs., musk tincture 0.28, storax tincture 8.81, tolu-balsam tincture 5.29, benzoin tincture 10.58. No water should be added.

_Eau de Lavande double._--Best quality of alcohol 10.56 quarts, best lavender oil 8.81 ozs., Portugal oil and bergamot oil each 1.76. After 14 days add 2.11 pints of orange-blossom water.

_Aqua mellis._--Coriander seed 7 lbs., cloves 12 ozs., storax 8 ozs., nutmegs (bruised) 8 ozs., lemon-peel 10 ozs., calamus 6 ozs., proof spirit 15 pints, water 8 pints.

Macerate for a month in a closed vessel, then distil 22 pints, and to the distillate add: Orange-flower water 5 pints, rose oil 24 drops, ambergris 1 grain, vanilla 2 ozs. Macerate for 8 days and filter.

_Eau de Lisbonne._--Lemon oil 2¼ ozs., Portugal oil 4½ ozs., rose oil 4¼ drachms, alcohol 5 quarts.