Part 1

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JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

A POPULAR ACCOUNT

OF THE

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF INDIA.

Illustrated with Numerous Anecdotes.

BY THE

REV. CHARLES ACLAND,

LATE CHAPLAIN AT POOREE, CUTTACK, AND MIDNAPORE.

LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1847.

London: Printed by W. CLOWES and SONS, Stamford Street.

PREFACE.

The author of the present work was a clergyman, who, along with his wife, quitted England about the beginning of the year 1842, leaving behind him several young children, to whom, as appears from the letters he constantly addressed to them, he was most affectionately attached.

They left the country full of hope that they should all be reunited at some future period; but, before he had been three years exposed to the climate of India, he fell a victim to it. It is somewhat melancholy to find him at the outset rejoicing in the very circumstance which in some measure perhaps occasioned his death. The first destination selected for him was little in accordance with his own taste; and when it subsequently was altered from Assam to Cuttack, he expresses himself delighted with the change, though the first-named province was much more remarkable for its healthfulness than that to which he at length proceeded.

Mr. Acland felt the warmest interest in the education of his children, and, to improve their minds, determined, on quitting England, to send home, from time to time, accurate accounts of his progress, that they might be made acquainted with all he beheld--the places through which he passed, the aspect of the country, its climate, productions, flowers, trees, shrubs, and wild animals. Many an interesting adventure is related in these pages which the author met with in the jungle; the beating of which by the hunting parties, who go forth in bands for that purpose, is described with an animation calculated to awaken much interest.

The letters addressed by Mr. Acland to his children have now been thrown into the form of a Journal, as this method was considered best suited to the general reader. The Editor has, however, been careful to preserve throughout the easy familiar style in which the father first wrote them, that to the children of others they may be equally acceptable and useful.

The books hitherto published on India have been in general, from their bulk, confined to persons arrived at a more advanced period of life; and the Editor of the present volume hopes in some measure to familiarise the subject by bringing it down nearer the comprehension of the youthful reader. This work is intended to describe Indian manners in an interesting way, and will in some measure, it is hoped, supply a portion of the want that has long existed in our literature in this respect. To render the subject more attractive, Mr. Acland was careful to introduce anecdotes and short narratives throughout, which are calculated to amuse, while instruction is at the same time conveyed.

One distinguishing feature may be observed in the whole--viz. a fervent spirit of devotion, which breathes through every page of the original manuscript. Such passages the Editor has thought it better to omit, as the advice from a father to his children, clothed in the simple language he considered it best to employ, though beautiful and touching in itself, would scarcely appear interesting to the general reader. For this reason the substance of his counsel has been compressed into the present brief Preface.

He impresses upon his children the necessity of living ever in brotherly love, of sustaining and comforting one another, and of seeking the Divine aid in every emergency of life, whether great or small. He shows them how, by trusting implicitly in God and acting according to His commandments, they will attain a peace of mind above all the happiness which an indulgence in the pleasures of this life can bestow. He explains to them, in the gentlest terms, how necessary it is for their welfare here and hereafter that they should act ever in accordance with the expressed wishes of the Almighty; and that they must never cease to remember that He moves about them everywhere, and sees their every action, hears each passionate word, beholds each unbecoming gesture, and will reward or punish according as they indulge in or abstain from evil. In several beautiful passages he portrays the unceasing watchfulness of the Almighty in providing for our daily wants, in supplying us with every necessary of life; and inquires, with truth, Ought not every little heart to be daily grateful to Him, without whose will the sun cannot shine, or rise, or set; without whose will the refreshing showers could not force and raise up around us the beautiful and necessary things of life? Then he inquires, How can we better show our gratitude for these blessings than by acting in accordance with the wishes of Him who is the cause of so much good?

These words were spoken by a father to his own children; but I would ask those of my young friends into whose hands this little volume may fall, does it not equally touch them? Do they not feel the truth of these sentences? Coming over the many thousand miles which stretch between India and this country, these letters were cherished the more by the three little children to whom they were addressed; and now that the hand is cold which traced the lines, how much more will they be prized!

Whatever may be the fate of the volume with the public, to those whom it more intimately concerns it will be a lasting remembrance of their father, and of the melancholy circumstances connected with his early death. For their sake, the Editor trusts that the present work may meet with at least a moderate share of success; and that, in the endeavour to render more familiar to the youthful mind the names and habits of some of the inhabitants of India, he may not altogether fail.

_London, Sept. 1847._

CONTENTS.

Page MADRAS, _June, 1842_.

Departure from England in March--Tremendous storm off Ushant--Ship becalmed at the equator--Great heat--Danger of sleeping in moonlight in hot climates--Storm off the Cape--Great speed of the vessel--Thunderstorm at the equator--Arrival at Madras--The mungoose; its usefulness in houses--Mother-of-pearl--Contrivances for abating the heat--Fakirs--Curious disease--Salutation of Europeans by natives--Employment of time 1

_July 1._

Native wedding--Visit to the Newab--Jugglers 6

CALCUTTA, _July 15_.

Voyage up the Hoogly--Waterspout--The bishop's palace--Appointment to the province of Assam--Great number of tigers at Calcutta--Mode of voyaging--Language of natives--Number of servants necessary 7

_August 6._

Change of appointment from Assam to Cuttack--Dangers of travelling--Mode of living--"Bore" in the Hoogly 9

MIDNAPORE, _September 12_.

Leave Calcutta--Accident on the Hoogly--Dâk-travelling--State of the road--Arrival at Midnapore--A bungalow--Trees and plants--Mode of providing animal food--Destructiveness of ants--Snakes--Monkeys--Encounter with a buffalo--Soil, climate, and productions of Midnapore--Expenses of living--List of servants 10

_September 15._

"Poujah of tools:" a rustic festival 17

_October 9._

Thunderstorms--Mode of taking birds--Costume--Coins--Insects-- Dinner-parties--Language--Strictness of caste regulations among servants--Employment of women--Disposal of the body after death--Dustoorie--The white ant 17

_November 11._

Antics of the monkey--Parrots--Fierceness of the hyæna--Small grey squirrel--Narrow escape from a cobra--Its bite seldom cured--Vegetable productions--Usefulness of the bamboo--Dishonesty of servants 21

_November 12._

Earthquake--Population of India--Religions--Money--Designations of Europeans by natives--Mode of life 26

_December 13._

Hiring of hackeries--Importunacy of natives--Encounter with a bear--Goats 29

_December 14._

Birds'-nests--Cost of dress--Weather--Temperature 31

_December 16._

Anonymous reptile--Destruction of serpents by the mungoose 32

BALASORE, ORISSA, _December 30_.

Balasore--Volcanic hills--Hill of the large white ant--Human skulls--Beautiful plumage of birds 32

_January 2, 1843._

Legend of the origin of the hills at Balasore--Immense number of ants'-nests; their mode of building--Great abundance of these insects 34

_January 3._

Journey from Midnapore--Mode of travelling--Danton--Jelasore--The fort--Ancient inscription--India-rubber tree--Attack by a tiger--A hungry bear--Paucity of furniture--Palanquin-bearers' songs--Fuel--False alarm--Jackals and crows the scavengers of the country 36

CUTTACK, _February 2_.

Journey from Balasore--Barripore--Gratuities to bearers-- Fruit-trees--Alligators--Mortality of Juggernat'h pilgrims--Sleeping arrangements--The Mohurrun--Position of Cuttack--Sea-breezes--Mode of irrigation--Ancient fort--Origin of the Mohurrun--Furious winds 43

_February 13._

Proposed new village--Depredations of tigers--Gold-dust 50

_March 4._

Excursion to Chogga--Sporting--Human skeleton--Wild bull--The village--Converts--Mode of starting the game--Assembly of native Christians--"Inquirers"--Conversation on religion--Baptism-- Degradation and loss of caste on embracing Christianity--Return to Cuttack--Comet--Remarkable weather 50

_April 13._

Narrow escape from a snake--Hindu festival--Chena poojah, or swinging festival--Elephant-riding--Sporting 60

_April 15._

Domestic arrangements--Furniture--Old Cuttack--Degeneracy of modern Indians 64

_April 17._

Chena poojah--Self-torture of devotees--Cotton-tree 67

JUGGERNAT'H, _May_.

Pooree--Pleasant temperature--The temple--Danger from sharks in bathing 68

CUTTACK, _August 7_.

Mofussil society--Morning visits--Costume--Dinner-parties 69

_August 29._

Ourang-outang--Monkeys--Bachelor's party--The Commissioner--Tiger story--Power of the human eye over the lower animals--Bats--Plan to improve society--A "good gardener"--Cruel treatment of servants by Europeans--Milder punishment adopted by the author 73

_October 12._

Return from Midnapore--Heavy rain--Description of a palanquin 84

_November 8._

Bengal tiger--Mode of hunting the boar--Anecdotes of tigers--Poison of the cobra--Chanderpore--Sea-scorpions--Relief-fund 86

BARRIPORE, _November 28_.

Solitude--Power of Europeans over natives--Their social relations--Rapid progress of disease 89

CUTTACK, _December 10_.

Elephant-hunting--Juggernat'h festival--Its support by Government--Pilgrims--Mode of expression in the East--A grateful servant--Number and names of servants--Their generally unkind treatment--Gratitude and honesty of natives: instances--Rajah Bheere Singh--His testimony to personal security in the Company's territory--An unexpected meeting 92

_December 25._

Choudwar--Sporting--Hyæna chase--Pariah-dog 99

_January 2, 1844._

Military sportsmen--A false alarm--Moral--Costume regulations of Hindus--Mode of evasion 102

BARRIPORE, _January 5_.

Mirage at Pooree 103

GUZZEEPUDDEE, _January 12_.

Journey from Balasore--Scenery--A water-race--Encampment--A nocturnal visitor 105

BARRIPORE, _January 16_.

Excursion to the Neilghur hills--Change of temperature and scenery--Skeleton of a boa constrictor 109

MIDNAPORE, _February 1_.

Excursion to Bhohoneswar and Cundeegurree--Temples--Inscriptions-- Attack of inflammation of the liver 111

_February 15._

Second visit to the Neilghur hills--A beyraghee and his enclosure--Encampment at Bengwharrie--Hunnamun monkeys--Game--Peafowl shooting--Bhohoneswar: its temples--Magnificence of the principal temple--Cundeegurree--Inscriptions--Caves--Devotees--Palace of the ancient Rajahs--Statue: considerations suggested by its costume--Anecdote of an elephant 112

POOREE, _May 26_.

A thunderstorm--Peculiarly fearful at Pooree 122

_May 29._

Temperature at Pooree and at Cuttack--Modes of conveyance--Ponies-- Arrangements for sleeping in comfort--The Rajah of Neilghur--His interview with the Commissioner--Costume and appointments-- Elephants--Hunting-party--Arrival at Neilghur--Adventure with a boar--Uncivil treatment of Rajahs 122

CUTTACK, _July 4_.

Salt-monopoly--Unjust treatment of the manufacturers--Juggernat'h-- Religion of the Brahmins--The idol--The procession--Immense number of pilgrims--Numerous deaths--Evil omen 131

_August 10._

Brindabund monkeys--Indian marriages--Frequent results--Peacocks 136

_September 14._

Plague of insects--A night's rest--The bath 138

_October 13._

Government doctors--Monkeys--Goats--Electric phenomenon 139

_November 14._

Rapid vegetation--Early maturity and decay of natives--Necessity for employment of the mind--Mode of passing time--Flower and kitchen gardens--An armadillo--A whale on shore 141

KHOUTAH, _December 16_.

Antiquity of Indian religions--Manner of disposal of the dead 144

JENKIA, _January 4, 1845_.

Mr. G., the collector and magistrate of Pooree--Departure for Khoordagurree--Regularity of seasons 145

TANGHI, _January 5_.

Manner of travelling--Soonercollee--Splendid scenery--Chelka Lake--Islands--Water-fowl--Flamingo 146

MIDNAPORE, _February 14_.

Sporting on the banks of the Chelka Lake--Chase by a bear 150

CUTTACK, _April 2_.

Travelling--Hunting antelopes--Snaring game--The sportsmen chased by pigs 152

POOREE, _April 26_.

Fatal illness of author 155

_May 8._

Abrupt conclusion 155

A POPULAR ACCOUNT

OF THE

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF INDIA.

Madras, June, 1842.

We quitted England in the course of March, 1842, and reached Madras in the month of June of the same year. I shall give but a brief sketch of our voyage.

Soon after leaving England, having arrived near Ushant, situated on the north-west coast of France, a tremendous storm came on; the waves rose high and washed the deck, while the ship itself pitched to such a degree that the very dinner rolled off the table; in the night my wife was tossed out of bed, and thrown to the other side of the cabin. We were in the greatest danger of being drowned. I started out of my hammock, but was unable to stand upright. Towards morning, however, the wind abated.

After this storm had passed, the ship went forward rapidly until we reached the equator, where she lay becalmed for several days. The heat at this point of our voyage was excessive; we used to lie about on the deck almost all night, taking care, however, to cover our faces if the moon was shining; for it is said that, in these hot climates, if any one goes to sleep under its light, he is in danger of losing his sight, and even his life.[1]

We now proceeded more slowly until we had rounded the Cape of Good Hope, where another storm came on. Every sail was taken in; yet, without their assistance, we ran, in two days, 545 miles. The waves rose as high as mountains, and the ship seemed to toil up one side, and to send the bowsprit up into the air, then, plunging down again, seemed to bury it in the sea. I was standing with my wife at the door of the dinner cabin when a large wave burst in through the upper part of the ship, flooded the room, and shivered one of our large boats to atoms.

As we were passing the equator, too, we suffered from a tremendous thunderstorm. The heat was excessive: not a breath of wind stirred the air. About twelve o'clock a little cloud, about the size of a man's hand, rose in the horizon: gradually it spread until it hung like a huge black mass over the ship. I stood and watched its increase, when suddenly a vivid flash of lightning shot from the heavens, and almost blinded me. At the same moment a crash of thunder bellowed round the ship like the noise of a thousand cannons. The lightning slightly struck one of our passengers and the mate, but did not inflict any serious injury. The rain now descended: not a sharp thick shower, such as you may witness in England, but as it were all in one mass, and soon every trace of the storm passed away; the sun burst forth, and the ship and sails were dried in the course of a few minutes.

Calm weather was ours now until we reached Madras. During our voyage we observed many curious kinds of birds, the principal of which was the stormy petrel. These creatures quit the land, and fly many thousand miles over the sea in the track of ships, following them by night and by day. The whale-bird is about the size of a thrush, white in colour, and may be seen hovering about the great fish from which it derives its name.

[Sidenote: CAPE PIGEON.]

The Cape pigeon is a very beautiful creature, about the size of our own pigeon, white, with black spots on its body, and a blue, glossy head. We several times amused ourselves with catching them; and the way we contrived was, to let fly from our hands a piece of thread several yards in length, which was carried out by the wind, and the pigeon, flying across it, became entangled in it. In fluttering about in the endeavour to extricate itself, it became only more firmly secured; and then, drawing the string towards us, we caught the bird, and, placing it on the deck, suffered it to walk about. The legs of this pigeon are so peculiarly formed that they are unable to spring up from the ground, and can only rise from the crest of a wave, or throw themselves from the edge of a rock. The albatross is a large white bird, which has been known to measure fourteen or sixteen feet from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. We used to catch them sometimes by casting out a hook and line, as for a fish.

The Cape hen, which follows the ship in flocks, is large and black, measuring about ten feet from wing to wing. Occasionally we caught a glimpse of the tropic-bird, called by the sailors the boatswain, because of its long pointed tail resembling the pigtail which these men used formerly to wear.

[Sidenote: PILOT-FISH, ETC.]

The booby is a large brown bird, about as big as a common hen. I must not forget to tell you something about the pilot-fish. Every shark, whether old or young, is accompanied by a little fish about twelve inches long, and striped like a zebra, which keeps always near the nose of the shark, and seems to guide him to his food.

As I have in this place said so much about birds and fishes, I may as well tell you a little about the animals here in Madras. The first I shall mention is the cow, by which all the carts and many of the carriages are drawn along--sometimes, too, very swiftly. They are much smaller than English cows, and have a hump on their backs. Camels may be seen in the streets patiently carrying heavy loads of goods: the people, however, treat them very cruelly.

As I was going to the cathedral last Sunday I saw a mungoose, a little green and yellow animal, something between a ferret and a squirrel. It is said that when bitten by a snake it runs and rubs the place over with the juice of a certain plant, which immediately cures it.

My samee, or native manservant, who is a Malay, gave me one about as large as a kitten, and quite as playful. It will attain to the size of a cat; it follows me about, sleeps on the foot of the bed, and if a snake comes into the room will instantly kill it. When an Indian mother wishes to go out, she need only just tell the mungoose to mind the cradle, and then he lies down by it, and suffers neither man nor reptile to approach. This creature, once tamed, is quite wretched out of human society.