Chapter 6
Take a pint of warm milk, and a quarter pint of thick small-beer yeast; strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to make it like a batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it has risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and an ounce of butter rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together; add sufficient flour to make it into a dough; cover it over. Let it stand half an hour; work it up again; break it into small pieces, roll them up quite round, and cover them over for a quarter of an hour, then bake them.
PANCAKES.
With all her haughty looks, the time I've seen When the proud damsel has more humble been; When with nice airs she hoist the _pancake_ round, And dropt it, hapless fair! upon the ground. SHENSTONE.
To three tablespoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs, three tablespoonfuls of white wine, four ounces of melted butter nearly cold, the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, half a grated nutmeg, and a pint of cream. Mix it well, beating the batter for some time, and pour it thin over the pan.
PLUM-CAKE.
First in place, _Plum-cake_ is seen o'er smaller pastry ware, And ice on that. SWIFT.
Pick two pounds of currants very clean, and wash them, draining them through a cullender. Wipe them in a towel, spread them out in a large dish, and set them near the fire or in the hot sun to dry, placing the dish in a slanting position. Having stoned two pounds of best raisins, cut them in half, and when all are done, sprinkle them well with sifted flour, to prevent their sinking to the bottom of the cake. When the currants are dry, sprinkle them also with flour.
Pound the spice, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two nutmegs, powdered; sift and mix the cinnamon and nutmeg together. Mix also a large glass of wine and brandy, half a glass of rose-water in a tumbler or cup. Cut a pound of citron in slips; sift a pound of flour in a broad dish, sift a pound of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut a pound of butter into it. Warm it near the fire, if the weather is too cold for it to mix easily. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; beat twelve eggs as light as possible; stir them into the butter and sugar alternately with the flour; stir very hard; add gradually the spice and liquor. Stir the raisins and currants alternately in the mixture, taking care that they are well floured. Stir the whole as hard as possible, for ten minutes after the ingredients are in.
Cover the bottom and sides of a large tin or earthen pan with sheets of white paper well buttered, and put into it some of the mixture. Then spread some citron on it, which must not be cut too small; next put a layer of the mixture, and then a layer of citron, and so on till all is in, having a layer of mixture at the top.
This cake will require four or five hours baking, in proportion to its thickness.
Ice it next day.
LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.
Must see Rheims, much famed, 'tis said, For making kings and _gingerbread_. MOORE.
Five eggs, half pound of brown sugar, half pound fresh butter, a pint of sugarhouse molasses, a pound and a half of flour, four tablespoonfuls of ginger, two large sticks of cinnamon, three dozen grains of allspice, three dozen of cloves, juice and grated peel of two lemons. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; beat the eggs very well; pour the molasses at once into the butter and sugar. Add the ginger and other spice, and stir all well together. Put in the eggs and flour alternately, stirring all the time. Stir the whole very hard, and put in the lemon at the last. When the whole is mixed, stir it till very light. Butter an earthen pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the gingerbread in it. Bake it in a moderate oven an hour or more, according to its thickness, or you may bake it in small cakes or little tins.
SHREWSBURY CAKES.
And here each season do _those cakes_ abide, Whose honored names the inventive city own, Rendering through Britain's isle Salopia's praises known. SHENSTONE.
Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon and a nutmeg grated, into three pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rose-water to three eggs well beaten; mix these with the flour, &c.; then pour into it as much butter melted as will make it a good thickness to roll out.
Stir it well, and roll thin; cut it into such shapes as you like. Bake on tins.
HONEY-CAKE.
In vain the circled loaves attempt to lie Concealed in flaskets from my curious eye; In vain the cheeses, offspring of the pail, Or _honeyed cakes_, which gods themselves regale. PARNELL.
One pound and a half of dried sifted flour, three quarters of a pound of honey, half a pound of finely powdered loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of citron, and half an ounce of orange-peel cut small, of powdered ginger and cinnamon, three quarters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with the honey, and mix in the other ingredients; roll out the paste, and cut it into small cakes of any form.
NAPLES BISCUITS.
Though I've consulted Holinshed and Stow, I find it very difficult to know Who, to refresh the attendants to a grave, Burnt claret first or _Naples biscuit_ gave. KING.
Put three quarters of a pound of fine flour to a pound of powdered sugar; sift both together three times; then add six eggs beaten well, and a spoonful of rose-water; when the oven is nearly hot, bake them.
GINGERBREAD.
Whence oft with sugared cates she doth 'em greet, And _gingerbread_, if rare, now certes doubly sweet. SHENSTONE.
To three quarters of a pound of treacle, beat one egg strained; mix four ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace, allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce; beat all as fine as possible; melt one pound of butter, and mix with the above: add as much flour as will knead it into a pretty stiff paste; roll it out, and cut it in cakes.
SPONGE CAKE.
On _cake_ luxuriously I dine, And drink the fragrance of the vine, Studious of elegance and ease, Myself alone I seek to please. GAY.
Take the juice and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs, twelve ounces of finely pounded loaf sugar, the same of dried and sifted flour; then, beat the yolks of ten eggs; add the sugar by degrees, and beat it till it will stand when dropped from the spoon; put in at separate times the two other eggs, yolks, and whites; whisk the ten whites for eight minutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and when quite stiff, take as much as the whisk will lift, and put it upon the yolks and sugar, which must be beaten all the time; mix in lightly all the flour and grated peel, and pour it gradually over the whites; stir it together, and bake it in a large buttered tin or small ones; do not more than half fill them.
SUGAR BISCUITS.
This happy hour elapsed and gone, The time of drinking tea comes on. The kettle filled, the water boiled, The cream provided, the _biscuits_ piled. And lamp prepared; I straight engage The Lilliputian equipage Of dishes, sauces, spoons, and tongs, And all the et ceteras which thereto belongs. DODSLEY.
The weight of eight eggs in finely pounded loaf sugar, and of four in dried flour; beat separately the whites and yolks; with the yolks beat the sugar for half an hour; then add the whites and the flour, and a little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, or pounded cinnamon. Bake them as French biscuits.
DERBY CAKE.
Some bring a capon, some _Derby cake_, Some nuts, some apples, some that think they make The better cheesecakes, bring them.
Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one egg; mix all together with half pint of milk; roll it out thin, and cut it into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking plate, and put them into a middling heated oven for about ten minutes.
CRACKNELS.
However, you shall home with me tonight, Forget your cares, and revel in delight; I have in store a pint or two of wine, Some _cracknels_, and the remnant of a chine. SWIFT.
Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound them to a fine paste, adding to them by degrees six eggs, when thoroughly pounded; pour on them a pound of powdered sugar, the same of butter, and the rinds of two lemons grated; beat up these ingredients in the mortar; put a pound of flour on a slab, and having poured the almond paste upon it, knead them together till they are well incorporated; roll it out, and cut the cracknels into such forms as you think proper; rub them with yolk of egg, and strew over them powdered sugar or cinnamon; then lay them on a buttered tin, and bake them in a moderate oven, taking great care they do not burn.
CHEESECAKES.
Treat here, ye shepherds blithe! your damsels sweet, For pies and _cheesecakes_ are for damsels meet. GAY.
Put two quarts of new milk into a stewpan; set it near the fire, and stir in two tablespoonfuls of rennet; let it stand till it is set (this will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd into a cullender to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound it quite smooth; then add four ounces of powdered sugar, and three ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little potting pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together; beat the yolks of four eggs in a basin with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces of currants washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your tins ready lined with puff paste, about a quarter of an inch thick; notch them all round the edge, and fill each with the curd.
Bake them twenty minutes.
BRIDE CAKE.
The bridal came; great the feast, And good the _bride cake_ and the priest. SMART.
Take four pounds of fresh butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace and the same quantity of nutmegs; to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash and pick four pounds of currants, and dry them before the fire; blanch a pound of sweet almonds, and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, a pound of candied orange, a pound of candied lemon, and half pint of brandy; first work the butter to a cream; then beat in your sugar a quarter of an hour; beat the white of your eggs to a very strong froth; mix them with your sugar and butter; beat the yolks half an hour at least, and mix them with your cake; then put in your flour, mace, and nutmeg; keep beating it till your oven is ready; put in your brandy; beat the currants and almonds lightly in; tie three sheets of paper round the bottoms of your hoops, to keep it from running out; rub it well with butter; put in your cake and the sweetmeats in three layers, with cake between every layer; after it is risen and colored, cover it with paper.
It takes three hours baking.
KISSES.
"I never give a _kiss_," says Prue, "To naughty man, for I abhor it." She will not give a _kiss_, 'tis true, She'll take one, though, and thank you for it. FROM THE FRENCH.
One pound of the best loaf sugar, powdered and sifted, the whites of four eggs, twelve drops of essence of lemon, a teacup of currant jelly. Beat the whites of four eggs till they stand alone. Then beat in gradually the sugar, a teaspoonful at a time. Add the essence of lemon, and beat the whole very hard. Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom of a square tin pan. Drop on it at equal distances a small teaspoonful of currant jelly. With a large spoon, pile some of the beaten white of eggs and sugar on each lump of jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on the mixture as evenly as possible, so as to make the kisses of a round smooth shape. Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as they are colored, they are done. Then take them out, and place two bottoms together. Lay them lightly on a sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till the two bottoms stick fast together, so as to form one oval or ball.
SWEET MACAROONS.
Where _cakes_ luxuriant pile the spacious dish, And purple nectar glads the festive hour, The guest, without a want, without a wish, Can yield no room to music's soothing power. JOHNSON.
Blanch a pound of sweet almonds; throw them into cold water for a few minutes; lay them in a napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty-four hours; at the end of that time, pound them, a handful at a time, adding occasionally some white of egg, till the whole is reduced to a fine paste; then take two pounds of the best lump sugar; pound and sift it; then put it to the almonds with the grated rinds of two lemons; beat these ingredients together in the mortar, adding, one at a time, as many eggs as you find necessary to moisten the paste, which should be thin, but not too much so, as in that case it would run; your paste being ready, take out a little in a spoon, and lay the macaroons on sheets of white paper, either round or oval, as you please; lay them at least an inch apart, because they spread in baking, and, if put nearer, would touch.
The whole of your paste being used, place the sheets of paper on tins in a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour.
This kind of cake requires great care.
SYLLABUB.
Mountown! the Muses' most delicious theme, O, may thy codlins ever swim in cream! The rasp and strawberries in Bordeaux drown, To add a redder tincture to their own! Thy white wine, sugar, milk, together club, To make that gentle viand--_syllabub_! KING.
Not all thy plate, how formed soe'er it be, Can please my palate like a bowl of thee. BARLOW.
In a large china bowl put a pint of port and a pint of sherry, or other white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full; in twenty minutes cover it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg; put pounded cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. It is very good without the nonpareil comfits.
BEER OR ALE.
O, Peggy, Peggy! when thou goest to brew, Consider well what you're about to do; Be very wise, very sedately think That what you're now going to make is _drink_; Consider who must drink that drink, and then What 'tis to have the praise of _honest_ men; For surely, Peggy, while that drink does last, 'Tis Peggy will be _toasted or disgraced_. Then if thy _ale_ in glass thou wouldst confine, To make its sparkling rays in beauty shine, Let thy clean bottle be entirely dry, Lest a white substance to the surface fly, And floating there disturb the curious eye; But this great maxim must be understood, "_Be sure, nay very sure, thy cork be good_." Then future ages shall of Peggy tell, That nymph that _brewed and bottled ale so well_! KING.
Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight for ale; for either, pour the whole quantity of water, hot, but not boiling, on at once, and let it infuse three hours, close covered; mash it in the first half hour, and let it stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the hops, previously infused in water; for beer, three quarters of a pound to a bushel; if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with the wort, two hours, from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful; then add three quarts of yeast, which will prepare it for putting to the rest when ready next day; but, if possible, put together the same night. Sun, as usual. Cover the bunghole with paper, when the beer has done working; and when it is to be stopped, have ready a pound and a half of hops, dried before the fire; put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up.
Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before it be drank. It will keep, and be very fine, eight or ten years. It should be brewed in the beginning of March. Great care must be taken that bottles are perfectly prepared, and _the corks are of the best sort_.
The ale will be ready in three or four months, and if the vent-peg be never removed, it will have spirit and strength to the last. Allow two gallons of water, at first, for waste.
After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogshead and a half for the twelve bushels; and a hogshead of water, if eight were brewed. Mash, and let stand; and then boil, &c.
ORIGIN OF MINT JULEPS.
'Tis said that the gods, on Olympus of old, (And who the bright legend profanes with a doubt!) One night, 'mid their revels, by Bacchus were told, That his last butt of nectar had somehow run out.
But determined to send round the goblet once more, They sued to the fairer mortals for aid In composing a draught, which till drinking were o'er, Should cast every wine ever drank in the shade.
Grave Ceres herself blithely yielded her corn, And the spirit that lives in each amber-hued grain, And which first had its birth from the dews of the morn, Was taught to steal out in bright dew-drops again.
Pomona, whose choicest of fruits on the board Were scattered profusely, in every one's reach, When called on a tribute to cull from the hoard, Express'd the mild juice of the delicate peach.
The liquids were mingled, while Venus looked on, With glances so fraught with sweet magical power, That the honey of Hybla, e'en when they were gone, Has never been missed in the draught from that hour.
Flora then from her bosom of fragrancy shook, And with roseate fingers pressed down in the bowl, All dripping and fresh as it came from the brook, The _herb_ whose aroma should flavor the whole.
The draught was delicious, each god did exclaim, Though something yet wanting they all did bewail; But _juleps_ the drink of immortals became, When Jove himself added a handful of hail. HOFFMAN.
PUNCH.
Four elements, joined in An emulous strife, Fashion the world, and Constitute life.
From the sharp citron The starry juice pour; Acid to life is The innermost core.
Now, let the sugar The bitter one meet; Still be life's bitter Tamed down with the sweet!
Let the bright water Flow into the bowl; Water, the calm one, Embraces the whole.
Drops from the spirit Pour quick'ning within, Life but its life from The spirit can win.
Haste, while it gloweth, Your vessels to bring; The wave has but virtue Drunk hot from the spring. TRANSLATED FROM SCHILLER.
INDEX.
A la Braise, Beef, 37 Artichokes, 75 Asparagus, 80 Apple Dumplings, 106 Apple Pudding, 100 Almond Creams, 111 Ale, 133
Broth, Chicken, 24 Boiled Salmon, 29 Beef, Roast, 36 Beef, Baked with Potatoes, 38 Beef, Ragout, 39 Beef, Kidneys, 39 Broiled Beefsteaks, 40 Beef, Salt, 42 Birds, Potted, 58 Beans, Lima, 75 Batter Pudding, 105 Butter, 115 Bread, 112 Bride Cake, 128 Biscuits, Naples, 123 Biscuits, Sugar, 125 Buckwheat Cakes, 117 Beer, 133
Calf's Liver, Roasted, 44 Calf's Head, Surprised, 45 Calf's Head, Roasted, 46 Capon, 51 Chicken Croquettes, 51 Carrots, 81 Cranberry Sauce, 70 Caper Sauce, 70 Cabbage, Pickled, 85 Cocoanut Pudding, 100 Charlotte des Pommes, 104 Custards or Creams, 111 Custards, Boiled, 110 Cottage Cheese, 116 Cheesecakes, 127 Cracknels, 126
Derby Cakes, 126
Eggs, To Poach, 91 Eggs, Boiled, 92 Eggs and Bread, 93 Eggs, Fried, 93 Eve's Pudding, 104
Fish White, To Stew, 25 Fish White, Another Way to Stew, 26 Fish Brown, To Stew, 27 Forcemeat Balls, 60 Fowl à la Hollandaise, 49 Fruit Pies, 96 Fritters, 107 Fritters, Sweetmeat, 106
Gingerbread, Lafayette, 121 Gingerbread, 124
Hams, To Cure, 52 Ham Pies, 53 Hare, Roasted, 54 Herbs, 82 Hasty Pudding, 101 Honey Cake, 123
Ice Cream, 109 Indian and Rye Bread, 114
Jelly, Currant, 87 Jelly, Cherry, 89 Jelly, Apple, 88 Jelly, Calves' feet, 89 Johnny Cakes, 118
Ketchup, Mushroom, 65 Kisses, 129
Lobster, Boiled, 30 Larks, 58 Leeks, 81
Mutton, Leg of, 52 Macaroni Gratin, 63 Mint Sauce, 69 Mushrooms, To Stew, 64 Mangoes, 84 Mince Pies, 98 Macaroons, Sweet, 130 Muffins, 118 Mint Juleps, Origin of, 135
Naples Biscuit, 123
Oatmeal Pudding, 103 Oysters, 31 Oysters, Fried, 31 Oysters, Stewed, 32 Oysters, Scalloped, 33 Oyster Loaves, 33 Oyster Pattie, 62 Ortolans, To Roast, 56 Onion Sauce, 74 Omelet, 91 Omelette, Soufflé, 94 Orange Custards, 110
Perch with Wine, 27 Patties for Fried Bread, 62 Pheasants, To Roast, 56 Potatoes, 76 Peas, 78 Pineapple Preserve, 90 Puff Paste, 95 Pyramid Paste, 96 Plum Pudding, 99 Plum Cake, 120 Pancakes, 119 Punch, 137
Roasted Sturgeon, 28 Rabbits, Fricasseed, 54 Rice, 79 Rye Bread, 114
Soup, Turtle, 21 Scotch Haggis, 41 Scotch Collops, 44 Salmis of Wild Duck, 47 Stewed Duck and Peas, 48 Salad, To Dress, 73 Spinach, 79 Sponge Cake, 124 Superlative Sauce, 68 Syllabub, 132 Sugar, To Clarify, 86 Suet Pudding, 103 Shrewsbury Cakes, 122
Tongues, To Pickle, for Boiling, 43 Truffles, 63 Turkey, Boiled, 50 Turkey, Devilled, 50 Turnips, 79
Venison, 35 Venison, Pasty, 36 Veal, Stewed Fillet, 45 Veal, Stuffing for, 60 Vol au Vent, 61 Vegetables, 72
Woodcocks, 57 Whipped Cream, 109
Yorkshire Pudding, 102 Yeast, 112
Transcriber's Note
The following typographical errors have been fixed:
Page Error 44 stew the liver changed to sew the liver Footnote 56-* leur foie.' changed to leur foie." 74 KING changed to KING. 77 uncover the soucepan changed to uncover the saucepan 126 to night changed to tonight
Inconsistently spelled words
Cawthorn / Cawthorne fryingpan / frying-pan lemon juice / lemon-juice patés / pâtés peppercorns / pepper-corns stewpan / stew-pan