Category: Travel Writing

A naturalist in Madagascar A record of observation, experiences, and impressions made during a period of over fifty years' intimate association with the natives and study of the animal & vegetable life of the island

“The Bullocker”—Landing at Tamatave—Meet with New Friends—Landing our Luggage—Bullocks and Bullock Ships—Native Houses—Strange Articles of Food—A Bed on a Counter—First Ride in a _Filanjàna_—At the Fort—The Governor and his “Get-Up”—A Rough-and-Ready Canteen

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

2. CHAPTER II

“The Bullocker”—Landing at Tamatave—Meet with New Friends—Landing our Luggage—Bullocks and Bullock Ships—Native Houses—Strange Articles of Food—A Bed on a Counter—First Ride in...

3. CHAPTER III

Travelling in Madagascar—Absence of Roads—“General Forest and General Fever”—Pleasures and Penalties of Travel—Start for the Interior—My Private Carriage—Night at Hivòndrona—Nat...

4. CHAPTER IV

A Canoe Voyage—Crocodiles and their Ways—River Scenery—Traveller’s Tree—Which is also “The Builder’s Tree”—Maròmby—Coffee Plantation—Orange Grove—We stick in the Mud—Difficultie...

5. CHAPTER V

“Weeping-place of Bullocks”—“Great Princess” Rock—Grandeur of the Vegetation—Scarcity of Flowers—Orchids, Bamboos, and Pendent Lichens—Apparent Paucity of Animal Life—Remarkable...

6. CHAPTER VI

The Seasons in Madagascar—Their Significant Names—Prospect from Summit of Antanànarìvo—Great Rice-plain—An Inundation of the Same—Springtime: September and October —Rice-plantin...

7. CHAPTER VII

Native Calendar—Conspicuous Flowers—Aloes and Agaves—Uniformity of Length of Days—Native Words and Phrases for Divisions of Time—And for Natural Phenomena—Hova Houses—Wooden and...

8. CHAPTER VIII

Autumn: March and April—Rice Harvest—The Cardinal-Bird—The Egret and the Crow—Harvest Thanksgiving Services—Rice, the Malagasy Staff of Life—Queer “Relishes to Rice”—Fish —Water...

9. CHAPTER IX

Old Towns—Ancient and Modern Tombs—Memorial Stones—Great Markets—Imèrina Villages—Their Elaborate Defences—Native Houses—Houses of Nobles—Hova Children—Their Dress and Games—Vil...

10. CHAPTER X

A Holiday at Ankèramadìnika—The Upper Forest Belt—The Flora of Madagascar—Troubles and Joys of a Collector—A Silken Bag—Ants and their Nests—In Trees and Burrows—Caterpillars an...

11. CHAPTER XI

Forest Scenes and Sounds—The Goat-sucker—Owls—Flowers and Berries—Palms and other Trees—The Bamboo-palm—Climbing Plants—Mosses, Lichens and Fungi—Their Beautiful Colours —Honey—...

12. CHAPTER XII

Forest Parts—Lost in the Woods—Native Proverbs and Dread of the Forest—Waterfalls—A Brilliant Frog—Frogs and their Croaking—A Nest-building Frog—Protective Resemblances and Mimi...

13. CHAPTER XIII

The Red-spot Spider—Various and Curious Spiders—Protective Resemblances among them—Trap-door Spiders—The Centetidæ —Malagasy Hedgehogs—The Lemurs—The Propitheques—The Red Lemur—...

14. CHAPTER XIV

Object of the Journey—My Companions—The Antsihànaka Province—Origin of the People—Anjozòrobé—“Travellers’ Bungalow”—A Sunday there—“Our Black Chaplain”—The “Stone Gateway”—Ankay...

15. CHAPTER XV

The Alaotra Lake—Lake Scenery—A Damp Resting-place—Shortened Oratory—We cross the Lake—An Ancient and Immense Lake—The Crocodile—Mythical Water-creatures—A Pleasant Meeting —“Ma...

16. CHAPTER XVI

17. CHAPTER XVII

Crater Lake of Andraikìba—Crater Lake of Trìtrìva—Colour of Water—Remarkable Appearance of Lake—Legends about it—Its Depth—View from Crater Walls—Ankàratra Mountain—Lava Outflow...

18. CHAPTER XVIII

Why I went South—How to secure your Bearers—The Old Style of Travelling—Route to Fianàrantsòa—Scenery—Elaborate Rice Culture—Bétsiléo Ornament and Art—Burial Memorials—We leave...

19. CHAPTER XIX

Ivòhitròsa—Native Dress—a Grand Waterfall—Wild Raspberries—The Ring-tailed Lemur—The Mouse-Lemur—A Heathen Congregation —Unlucky Days—Month Names—The _Zàhitra_ Raft—A Village Be...

20. CHAPTER XX

Hova Conquest of and Cruelties to the Coast Tribes—The Traveller’s Tree and its Fruits—A Hova Fort—Ball Head-dressing —Rice-fields—Volcanic Phenomena—Vòavòntaka Fruit—A Well-dun...

21. CHAPTER XXI

A Built Boat—In the Bush—A Canoe Voyage—Canoe Songs—The _Angræcum_ Orchids—Pandanus and Atàfa Trees—Coast Lagoons—A Native Dance—A Wheeled Vehicle—Lost in the Woods—A Fatiguing...

22. CHAPTER XXII

North-West Route to the Coast—River Embankments—Mission Stations—A Lady Bricklayer—In a Fosse with the Cattle—An Airy Church on a Stormy Night—A Strange Chameleon—The “Short” Mo...

23. CHAPTER XXIII

Tortoises—Gigantic Tortoises of Aldabra Island—Park-like Scenery—The Fierce Little Fòsa—Small Carnivora—Beautiful Woods—“Many Crocodiles” Town—A Curious Pulpit—A Hot Night—A Voy...

24. CHAPTER I

The great African island of Madagascar has become well known to Europeans during the last half-century, and especially since the year 1895, when it was made a colony of France....

25. CHAPTER II

It was on a bright morning in September, 1863, that I first came in sight of Madagascar. In those days there was no service of steamers, either of the “Castle” or the “Messageri...

26. CHAPTER III

Travelling in Madagascar fifty years ago, and indeed for many years after that date, differed considerably from what we have any experience of in Europe. It was not until the ye...

27. CHAPTER IV

It rained heavily during the night of Tuesday and nearly until daybreak, so it was half-past six o’clock before we were able to leave Andòvorànto. Hitherto we had followed the s...

28. CHAPTER V

On the Friday morning we left Béfòrona soon after five o’clock and for nearly four hours were passing through the forest, here known as that of Alamazaotra, over the highest hil...

29. CHAPTER VI

My object in these chapters is to describe, as vividly as I am able, the varied aspects of the different months throughout the year in this central province of Imèrina, as they...

30. CHAPTER VII

Besides flowers growing on the ground, there are many shrubs and small trees now in blossom, although some are by no means confined in floral display to the warm and rainy seaso...

31. CHAPTER VIII

AUTUMN: MARCH AND APRIL.—It will be understood from what has been previously stated as to the divisions of the seasons in the Imèrina province that, as with the seasons in Engla...

32. CHAPTER IX

Other noticeable objects when travelling about the central provinces are tall stones of rough undressed granite, from eight to twelve feet high, called _Vàtolàhy_ (_i.e._ “Male...

33. CHAPTER X

By the kind concern of two of the missionary societies working in Madagascar for the comfort and health of their representatives, who live in Imèrina, two sanatoriums have been...

34. CHAPTER XI

Anyone who has stayed near the upper forest during December or January, and has quietly watched for a short time among the trees, will not complain of scarcity of bird life to a...

35. CHAPTER XII

There are a number of paths in the forest which may be followed from the sanatorium, north, east and south, and with a considerable variety of scene. But it is easy to get lost...

36. CHAPTER XIII

While on the subject of noxious creatures, we remember that one, if not more, of the spiders of Madagascar must be included in the list. This is a small arachnid, about the size...

37. Chapter VII.

As we notice these curious disguises in spiders, as well as in numbers of other living creatures, we are reminded of the old nursery tales and fables of the gift of invisibility...

38. CHAPTER XIV

Some years ago I was asked to accompany two gentlemen on a journey to one of the then least-known provinces of Madagascar, that occupied by the Sihànaka or lake-dwellers. Two of...

39. CHAPTER XV

We were up early on Monday morning, the doctor to prepare paper for photographs, Mr Pillans and I to survey. He and I walked up a rounded scarped hill, about a mile to the north...

40. CHAPTER XVI

Madagascar is not at present one of those regions of the earth where volcanic disturbances occur; but there is ample evidence, from the numerous extinct craters found in various...

41. CHAPTER XVII

Within a few miles of Antsìrabé are two crater lakes. The nearer and larger of these is called Andraikìba, which lies distant about four miles due west. This is a beautiful shee...

42. CHAPTER XVIII

A few years ago I was invited by the Friends’ Foreign Missionary Association to accompany one of their missionaries, Mr Louis Street, on a journey to some of the southern portio...

43. CHAPTER XIX

Our Sunday at Ivòhitròsa was such a novel and interesting one that I shall depart for once from my rule of omitting in these chapters mention of our religious work. It was a wet...

44. CHAPTER XX

From the Hova military post at Ambòhipèno, my companion and I made our way southwards, or rather first to the south-west, intending to visit the congregations at the three or fo...

45. CHAPTER XXI

On the Saturday afternoon we reached Ambàhy, a large village not far from the sea, with a _ladoàna_ or custom-house. Here a detachment of military awaited our arrival—viz. _four...

46. CHAPTER XXII

As the contents of former chapters in this book show, I was able on various occasions during the first few years of residence in Madagascar to make journeys in different directi...

47. CHAPTER XXIII

Crocodiles are not the only reptiles to be seen in the river, for we also saw many large tortoises. They were chiefly of the genus _Pyxis_, the Geometric or Box tortoise, having...