Category: Travel Writing

A Month in Yorkshire

Estuary of the Humber--Sunk Island--Land _versus_ Water--Dutch Phenomena--Cleathorpes--Grimsby--Paul--River Freaks--Mud-- Stukeley and Drayton--Fluvial Parliament--Hull--The Thieves' Litany--Docks and Drainage--More Dutch Phenomena--The High Church --Thousands of Piles--The Ci...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER II.

Estuary of the Humber--Sunk Island--Land _versus_ Water--Dutch Phenomena--Cleathorpes--Grimsby--Paul--River Freaks--Mud-- Stukeley and Drayton--Fluvial Parliament--Hull--The Thi...

2. CHAPTER III.

A Railway Trip--More Land Reclamation--Hedon--Historical Recollections--Burstwick--The Earls of Albemarle--Keyingham--The Duke of York--Winestead--Andrew Marvell's Birthplace--A...

3. CHAPTER IV.

Northern Manners--Cottingham--The Romance of Baynard Castle-- Beverley--Yorkshire Dialect--The Farmers' Breakfast--Glimpses of the Town--Antiquities and Constables--The Minster-...

4. CHAPTER V.

A Scotchman's Observations--The Prospect--The Anatomy of Beverley --Historical Associations--The Brigantes--The Druids--Austin's Stone--The Saxons--Coifi and Paulinus--Down with...

5. CHAPTER VI.

The Great Drain--The Carrs--Submerged Forest--River Hull--Tickton --Routh--Tippling Rustics--A Cooler for Combatants--The Blind Fiddler--The Improvised Song--The Donkey Races--S...

6. CHAPTER VII.

Coast Scenery--A waning Mere, and wasting Cliffs--The Rain and the Sea--Encroachment prevented--Economy of the Hotel--A Start on the Sands--Pleasure of Walking--Cure for a bad C...

7. CHAPTER VIII.

8. CHAPTER IX.

Men's and Women's Wages--The Signal Tower--The passing Fleet--The Lighthouse--The Inland View--Cliff Scenery--Outstretching Reefs-- Selwick's Bay--Down to the Beach--Aspect of t...

9. CHAPTER X.

Old and New Filey--The Ravine--Filey Brig--Breaking Waves--Rugged Cliffs--Prochronic Gravel--Gristhorp Bay--Insulated Column--Lofty Cliffs--Fossil Plants--Red Cliff--Cayton Bay-...

10. CHAPTER XI.

From Cloughton to Haiburn Wyke--The embowered Path--Approach to the Sea--Rock, Water, and Foliage--Heavy Walking--Staintondale Cliffs--The Undercliff--The Peak--Raven Hall--Robi...

11. CHAPTER XII.

Whitby's Attractions--The Pier--The River-Mouth--The Museum-- Saurians and Ammonites--An enthusiastic Botanist--Jet in the Cliffs, and in the Workshop--Jet Carvers and Polishers...

12. CHAPTER XIII.

To Upgang--Enter Cleveland--East Row--The first Alum-Maker-- Sandsend--Alum-Works--The huge Gap--Hewing the Alum Shale-- Limestone Nodules: Mulgrave Cement--Swarms of Fossils--B...

13. CHAPTER XIV.

Mulgrave Park--Giant Wade--Ubba's Landing-place--The Boggle- boggarts--The Fairy's Chase--Superstitions--The Knight of the Evil Lake--Lythe--St. Oswald's Church--Goldsborough--K...

14. CHAPTER XV.

Last Day by the Sea--Boulby--Magnificent Cliffs--Lofthouse and Zachary Moore--The Snake-killer--The Wyvern--Eh! Packman-- Skinningrave--Smugglers and Privateers--The Bruce's Pri...

15. CHAPTER XVI.

Leave Redcar--A Cricket-Match--Coatham--Kirkleatham--The Old Hospital--The Library--Sir William Turner's Tomb--Cook, Omai, and Banks--The Hero of Dettingen--Yearby Bank--Upleath...

16. CHAPTER XVII.

Locomotive, Number One--Barnard Castle--Buying a Calf on Sunday-- Baliol's Tower--From Canute to the Duke of Cleveland--Historic Scenery--A surprised Northumbrian--The bearded H...

17. CHAPTER XVIII.

Early Morn--High Force--Rock and Water--A Talk with the Waitress-- Hills and Cottages--Cronkley Scar--The Weel--Caldron Snout-- Soothing Sound--Scrap from an Album--View into Bi...

18. CHAPTER XIX.

Return into Yorkshire--The Old Pedlar--Oh! for the Olden Time-- "The Bible, indeed!"--An Emissary--Wild Boar Fell--Shunnor Fell-- Mallerstang--The Eden--A Mountain Walk--Tan Hil...

19. CHAPTER XX.

Bainbridge--"If you had wanted a wife"--A Ramble--Millgill Force-- Whitfell Force--A Lovely Dell--The Roman Camp--The Forest Horn, and the old Hornblower--Haymaking--A Cockney R...

20. CHAPTER XXI.

About Gimmer Hogs--Gearstones--Source of the Ribble--Weathercote Cave--An Underground Waterfall--A Gem of a Cave--Jingle Pot--The Silly Ducks--Hurtle Pool--The Boggart--A Remini...

21. CHAPTER XXII.

By Rail to Skipton--A Stony Town--Church and Castle--The Cliffords --Wharfedale--Bolton Abbey--Picturesque Ruins--A Foot-Bath--Scraps from Wordsworth--Bolton Park--The Strid--Ba...

22. CHAPTER XXIII.

A Walk--Carperby--Despotic Hay-time--Bolton Castle--The Village-- Queen Mary's Prison--Redmire--Scarthe Nick--Pleasing Landscape-- Halfpenny House--Hart-Leap Well--View into Swa...

23. CHAPTER XXIV.

Sutton: a pretty Village--The Hambleton Hills--Gormire Lake-- Zigzags--A Table-Land--Boy and Bull Pup--Skawton--Ryedale-- Rievaulx Abbey--Walter L'Espec--A Charming Ruin--The Te...

24. CHAPTER XXV.

By Rail to Leeds--Kirkstall Abbey--Valley of the Aire--Flight to Settle--Giggleswick--Drunken Barnaby again--Nymph and Satyr--The astonished Bagman--What do they Addle?--View fr...

25. CHAPTER XXVI.

Keighley--Men in Pinafores--Walk to Haworth--Charlotte Bronte's Birthplace--The Church--The Pew--The Tombstone--The Marriage Register--Shipley--Saltaire--A Model Town--Household...

26. CHAPTER XXVII.

Bradford's Fame--Visit to Warehouses--A Smoky Prospect--Ways and Means of Trade--What John Bull likes--What Brother Jonathan likes --Vulcan's Head-quarters--Cleckheaton--Heckmon...

27. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Clouds of Blacks--What Sheffield was and is--A detestable Town-- Razors and Knives--Perfect Work, Imperfect Workmen--Foul Talk--How Files are made--Good Iron, Good Steel--Breaki...

28. CHAPTER XXIX.

29. CHAPTER I.

I had cheerful recollections of Yorkshire. My first lessons in self-reliance and long walks were learned in that county. I could not forget how, fresh from the south, I had been...

30. CHAPTER II.

Estuary of the Humber--Sunk Island--Land _versus_ Water--Dutch Phenomena--Cleathorpes--Grimsby--Paul--River Freaks--Mud-- Stukeley and Drayton--Fluvial Parliament--Hull--The Thi...

31. CHAPTER III.

A Railway Trip--More Land Reclamation--Hedon--Historical Recollections--Burstwick--The Earls of Albemarle--Keyingham-- The Duke of York--Winestead--Andrew Marvell's Birthplace--...

32. CHAPTER IV.

Journeying from Hull to Beverley by 'market-train' on the morrow, I had ample proof, in the noisy talk of the crowded passengers, that Yorkshire dialect and its peculiar idioms...

33. CHAPTER V.

A Scotchman's Observations--The Prospect--The Anatomy of Beverley--Historical Associations--The Brigantes--The Druids-- Austin's Stone--The Saxons--Coifi and Paulinus--Down with...

34. CHAPTER VI.

The Great Drain--The Carrs--Submerged Forest--River Hull-- Tickton--Routh--Tippling Rustics--A Cooler for Combatants--The Blind Fiddler--The Improvised Song--The Donkey Races--S...

35. CHAPTER VII.

Coast Scenery--A waning Mere, and wasting Cliffs--The Rain and the Sea--Encroachment prevented--Economy of the Hotel--A Start on the Sands--Pleasure of Walking--Cure for a bad C...

36. CHAPTER VIII.

The party--four gentlemen and one lady--at the boarding-house where I tarried to dine, agreed unanimously that to pass a whole Sunday morning in walking, was especially blamewor...

37. CHAPTER IX.

Men's and Women's Wages--The Signal Tower--The passing Fleet-- The Lighthouse--The Inland View--Cliff scenery--Outstretching Reefs--Selwick's Bay--Down to the Beach--Aspect of t...

38. CHAPTER X.

Old and New Filey--The Ravine--Filey Brig--Breaking Waves-- Ragged Cliffs--Prochronic Gravel--Gristhorp Bay--Insulated Column--Lofty Cliffs--Fossil Plants--Red Cliff--Cayton Bay...

39. CHAPTER XI.

From Cloughton to Haiburn Wyke--The embowered Path--Approach to the Sea--Rock, Water, and Foliage--Heavy Walking--Staintondale Cliffs--The Undercliff--The Peak--Raven Hall--Robi...

40. CHAPTER XII.

Whitby's Attractions--The Pier--The River-Mouth--The Museum-- Saurians and Ammonites--An enthusiastic Botanist--Jet in the Cliffs, and in the Workshop--Jet Carvers and Polishers...

41. CHAPTER XIII.

To Upgang--Enter Cleveland--East Row--The first Alum-Maker-- Sandsend--Alum-Works--The huge Gap--Hewing the Alum Shale-- Limestone Nodules: Mulgrave Cement--Swarms of Fossils--B...

42. CHAPTER XIV.

Mulgrave Park--Giant Wade--Ubba's Landing-place--The Boggle- boggarts--The Fairy's Chase--Superstitions--The Knight of the Evil Lake--Lythe--St. Oswald's Church--Goldsborough--K...

43. CHAPTER XV.

Last Day by the Sea--Boulby--Magnificent Cliffs--Lofthouse and Zachary Moore--The Snake-killer--The Wyvern--Eh! Packman-- Skinningrave--Smugglers and Privateers--The Bruce's Pri...

44. CHAPTER XVI.

Leave Redcar--A Cricket-Match--Coatham--Kirkleatham--The Old Hospital--The Library--Sir William Turner's Tomb--Cook, Omai, and Banks--The Hero of Dettingen--Yearby Bank--Upleath...

45. CHAPTER XVII.

Locomotive, Number One--Barnard Castle--Buying a Calf on Sunday--Baliol's Tower--From Canute to the Duke of Cleveland-- Historic Scenery--A surprised Northumbrian--The bearded H...

46. CHAPTER XVIII.

Early Morn--High Force--Rock and Water--A Talk with the Waitress--Hills and Cottages--Cronkley Scar--The Weel--Caldron Snout--Soothing Sound--Scrap from an Album--View into Birk...

47. CHAPTER XIX.

Return into Yorkshire--The Old Pedlar--Oh! for the Olden Time-- "The Bible, indeed!"--An Emissary--Wild Boar Fell--Shunnor Fell --Mallerstang--The Eden--A Mountain Walk--Tan Hil...

48. CHAPTER XX.

Bainbridge--"If you had wanted a wife"--A Ramble--Millgill Force--Whitfell Force--A Lovely Dell--The Roman Camp--The Forest Horn, and the old Hornblower--Haymaking--A Cockney Ra...

49. CHAPTER XXI.

About Gimmer Hogs--Gearstones--Source of the Ribble-- Weathercote Cave--An Underground Waterfall--A Gem of a Cave-- Jingle Pot--The Silly Ducks--Hurtle Pool--The Boggart--A Remi...

50. CHAPTER XXII.

By Rail to Skipton--A Stony Town--Church and Castle--The Cliffords--Wharfedale--Bolton Abbey--Picturesque Ruins--A Foot-Bath--Scraps from Wordsworth--Bolton Park--The Strid-- Ba...

51. CHAPTER XXIII.

A Walk--Carperby--Despotic Hay-time--Bolton Castle--The Village --Queen Mary's Prison--Redmire--Scarthe Nick--Pleasing Landscape--Halfpenny House--Hart-Leap Well--View into Swal...

52. CHAPTER XXIV.

Sutton: a pretty Village--The Hambleton Hills--Gormire Lake-- Zigzags--A Table-Land--Boy and Bull Pup--Skawton--Ryedale-- Rievaulx Abbey--Walter L'Espec--A Charming Ruin--The Te...

53. CHAPTER XXV.

By Rail to Leeds--Kirkstall Abbey--Valley of the Aire--Flight to Settle--Giggleswick--Drunken Barnaby again--Nymph and Satyr --The astonished Bagman--What do they Addle?--View f...

54. CHAPTER XXVI.

Keighley--Men in Pinafores--Walk to Haworth--Charlotte Bronte's Birthplace--The Church--The Pew--The Tombstone--The Marriage Register--Shipley--Saltaire--A Model Town--Household...

55. CHAPTER XXVII.

Bradford's Fame--Visit to Warehouses--A Smoky Prospect--Ways and Means of Trade--What John Bull likes--What Brother Jonathan likes--Vulcan's Head-quarters--Cleckheaton--Heckmond...

56. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Clouds of Blacks--What Sheffield was and is--A detestable Town --Razors and knives--Perfect Work, Imperfect Workmen--Foul Talk --How Files are Made--Good Iron, Good Steel--Break...

57. CHAPTER XXIX.

Here, reader, we part company. The last day of July has come, and whatever may be my inclinations or yours, I must return to London, and report myself to-morrow morning at head-...