Part 6

Chapter 63,938 wordsPublic domain

When slaking is completed, the lime is reduced to what is called "putty", which should be of uniform consistency throughout, containing no unslaked lumps. The sand should now be added, the exact amount depending upon the quality of mortar desired, and thoroughly mixed with the putty, and then shoveled out on wooden planks where it should remain for at least a week before using.

[Sidenote: Hydrated lime]

Hydrated lime is in powdered form and needs no other preparation than the addition of water. Its quality is uniform and produces satisfactory results, even when experienced labor cannot be obtained, and may be used at once on the job. Its uniformity and the facility it gives in handling the mortar make it preferable to lump lime although it costs somewhat more.

The mixing of cement-lime mortar is very simple, as all that is needed is to add the proper amount of cement to the lime mortar, at the time it is tempered for use, and very thoroughly mix into a consistent mass.

[Sidenote: Tempering Mortar]

Working the mortar and adding water to bring it to proper consistency for actual use on the job is called tempering, a process that should be continued until the mortar slides easily off the trowel. All white spots, which are really small lumps of lime, should be made to disappear; otherwise, these lumps will swell and "pop" after the mortar is laid in the wall.

INCREASING FIRE PROTECTION

[Sidenote: Lessons from Europe]

The loss by fire which the people of this country suffer every year, both in human lives and in property values, is appalling. The loss of life, according to conservation estimates of the National Board of Fire Underwriters amounts to 15,000 persons annually, and the destruction of property approaches an average of a quarter of a billion dollars every year. This certainly is a fearful tribute to pay for our criminal negligence and mistaken economies.

We have recently been learning the science and art of war from Europe to combat unjust aggression, but we have a much better lesson to learn from the older country in our fight against the ruthless fire fiend. Making all allowance for difference in the purchasing value of money between Europe and America, it still speaks ill for our good sense that we, over a hundred million strong, besides enduring all the suffering involved, should allow our National "ash heap" to cost us upwards of $2.00 a piece, when the European countries manage to get through on a per capita cost of from 11 to 49 cents. The Demon of Carelessness may account for much of this inexcusable difference, but our mistaken sense of economy, in using cheap, combustible types of construction, is largely to blame.

[Sidenote: Individual Duty]

The cure for this disgraceful status in our fire losses should not be left entirely to municipal ordinances and fire insurance requirements, but should begin with every individual who builds a home. He should make it his first concern to see that his house is as completely protected from fire as possible, not only for the safety of himself and family but also for that of the community in which he lives and of which he should form a responsible part.

Therefore, brick as a building material makes the strongest sort of appeal to your prospective clients because of its entire proofness against fire.

Every brick you put into a house is fireproof, so that the more brick you use, the more completely is the house free from the risk of fire. But in situations where brick are not or cannot be used in house construction, as much protection against fire as possible should be secured.

[Sidenote: The Roof]

As the roof is always a very vulnerable part of the house, in case of outside fires, it should be covered with a non-combustible or fire-resisting material such as shingle tile, slate, asbestos, or asphalt. This will not only reduce insurance rates but will complete the house consistently with the permanent fireproof nature of face brick wall construction.

Serious consideration should be given this point when planning a house; for, by adopting a roof of this character, each individual owner not only guards his own welfare but helps to reduce the enormous annual fire loss in this country which rests as a burden upon everyone.

[Sidenote: Wooden Shingles]

The wooden shingle roof is just so much tinder ready to be set ablaze by an adjacent fire or a flying firebrand and in turn throws off similar sparks which are carried by the wind, thus communicating fire from one house to another.

[Sidenote: Fire Resistive Shingles]

Shingle tile, slate, and asbestos are the most fireproof as well as the most expensive in the group of permanent roof coverings. They are heavier than the wooden shingle and generally require a stronger roof construction to support them. Each has artistic qualities of its own in the way of permanent textures and colors which recommend it. Asphalt shingles, while not fireproof, are fire-resistive to a very great degree. They do not support combustion, cannot be set afire by flying brands, and thus retard the spread of fire. They are light in weight and can be placed over the same roof construction as the wooden shingle. We strongly recommend the use of any of the above mentioned roof materials in connection with a face brick house.

[Sidenote: Costs]

As a general approximate estimate, we might say that a slate roof of 3/16-inch commercial slate would increase the cost of the house two per cent, as compared with the use of a wooden shingle roof. Shingle tile would cost perhaps a little more than slate, while asbestos shingle would come a little less. Asphalt would cost no more than wooden shingles, perhaps not quite so much. But we suggest your seeing the local dealer who will gladly furnish all information on these different materials as to durability and exact local cost.

[Sidenote: Fire Risks]

According to the figures of the National Board of Fire Underwriters, the relation of outside to inside fires, for 1916 to 1918, is presented in the table given below. The figures for 1919 were not compiled at this writing but the ratios would doubtless run about the same, and the lesson is obvious. If the 25 to 30 per cent of fires started from without call for fire-safe exterior construction, the 70 to 75 per cent of interior fires demand special care against fire within. Much of the interior of a house is of burnable material, and the matter becomes very serious when it concerns the wooden floors and partitions which in case of fire may be consumed, resulting in the total collapse of the interior. These portions may be protected from the attack of fire by the use of a first-class metal lath or even gypsum plaster board, as a base for plastering, which would at least retard the fire from spreading until it could be subdued and put under control.

[Sidenote: Protect Weak Parts]

Instead of protecting the entire interior by metal lath or gypsum board the desired result may be obtained by using it in certain places considered most hazardous. First of all, the frame bearing partitions through the middle of the brick or tile house, which are the main supports for the floors above, and ceilings under inhabited floors, should be protected; and, in case of veneer construction, similar treatment on the inside surface of exterior walls would add greatly to the safety and value of the house.

As fires may originate in the ceiling over the heater and coal bins, at chimney breasts, and around flues, metal lath or gypsum board at these points would retard the spread of fire; and its use around, but especially under, stairs would give a far safer exit from the upper story of the house.

Having built a face brick house for your client, as the most substantial and attractive construction to be had, protected on the outside with a roof of permanent material, and on the inside with fire-resistive material at the weakest points, you have given him the best possible value for his money, in a structure at once beautiful, enduring, economical, and safe against fire.

Outside and Inside Causes of Fire

_Outside Causes _All Causes_ _Outside Causes_ Percentage_

1916 _Claims_ 361,742 114,900 31.76% _Loss_ $208,705,340 56,684,837 22.36%

1917 _Claims_ 356,896 88,549 24.81% _Loss_ $231,628,000 61,971,156 26.75%

1918 _Claims_ 328,737 104,622 31.83% _Loss_ $283,103,101 79,947,935 28.24%

COLLECTION

_of_

PRACTICAL PLANS

CAREFULLY STUDIED

TO MEET

MODERN REQUIREMENTS

The thirty-one face brick houses here shown were designed for us by Messrs. Dean & Dean, well-known architects of Chicago, who have been especially successful in planning the small house. To get the effect of various color-toned brick, we had the architects' perspectives done in oil, and were fortunate enough to secure for this purpose the skillful hand of Mr. Alfred Juergens, an artist who has won an enviable reputation in this country for his exquisite color work. While the reproductions, here presented, cannot adequately give the effect of the originals, they fairly represent the possibility of beautiful color effects in brickwork.

If you study the floor plans carefully, you will find them modern in arrangement and conveniently planned so as to save steps for the woman of the house. This economical interior arrangement also effects an economy in cost of construction. The dimensions of the rooms are shown, also the location of the furniture is suggested, helping more than anything else to visualize the size and proportions of the plans. The lighting outlets, switches, and receptacles are indicated according to the table of symbols given below.

[Sidenote: Working Drawings]

The full working drawings, done at a scale of one-quarter inch to the foot, include floor plans, elevations, and all necessary details. The elevations show the size and shape of all windows, doors, cornices, porches, steps, chimneys, and the pitch of all roofs. The plans give the size of all rooms and closets, the location of all doors, windows, stairs, plumbing fixtures, cabinets, lights and heating registers, and are fully dimensioned. The details drawn to a larger scale include sections of all interior trim, kitchen or pantry cabinets, and sections through the exterior wall, giving story and window heights.

One of the special merits of these drawings is that three wall sections are given for each house, showing the complete wall construction for solid brick, face brick on hollow tile, and face brick on wood studs.

This feature is valuable as the purchaser may build the house according to the method of construction he wishes; he is also thus put in a position to obtain figures each way to determine for himself the costs of the different types of construction in his locality.

[Sidenote: Specifications]

The specifications give full description of all materials and items not usually shown on the plans. They are very clear and explicit, so that there can be no possibility of misunderstanding. Such items as kind and grade of lumber, interior finish and floor, and kind of brick, are left for the individual to determine for himself, as they are matters of personal preference. Different kinds of roofs are specified, including tile, slate, asbestos, asphalt, and wooden shingle. The owner may strike out from the specifications the ones he does not wish.

[Sidenote: Quantity Survey]

The quantity survey is a complete bill of materials for the brickwork, carpentry, and plastering work, with blank columns for the use of the estimator in filling in his prices. This feature is not only of great assistance to the contractor when estimating, but assures the owner that competing contractors are figuring on the same materials. This survey is compiled to list the materials necessary for a house with walls of solid brick, giving at the same time alternative quantities for walls of face brick on hollow tile, and face brick on wood studs.

The quantity survey given is based upon a level lot so that if the house is to be built upon a slope, certain changes will have to be made in the quantities of face and common brick.

It must also be noted that the porch foundations are shown four feet below grade, a depth meeting the average climatic conditions. If the house, therefore, is to be constructed in a warm climate, these foundations need not extend so deep. If in a very cold climate, on the other hand, all foundations may have to be extended to the customary depth for that locality. In either case, the quantity of common brick should be adjusted.

[Sidenote: Reversal]

A very valuable feature of these plans and elevations is the fact that each set is drawn in the reverse with a different exterior design, so as to meet the requirements of any location you desire. If, however, you prefer the plans of one set and the elevations of the reverse, order the drawings that way. We will send both elevations, so that for your convenience you can use the figures on the original in place of the reversed figures on the reverse. You thus have in the case of each house three choices, the original, its complete reverse, and its partial reverse.

In locations where no public method of sewage disposal exists, the owner will have to install a disposal system of his own. If this is the case, let us know when ordering your plans, and we will send you, without additional charge, details and description of an inexpensive system of sewage disposal that will fill your requirements. You will find this subject amply treated in Bulletin No. 57 of the U. S. Department of Agriculture on "Water Supply, Plumbing, and Sewage Disposal for Country Houses."

[Sidenote: Costs]

We could not venture to state the total cost of any of the houses shown, as prices not only vary in different localities throughout the country and fluctuate from time to time in the same locality, but each prospective owner's taste would require different materials for both exterior and interior finish, so that it would be impossible to make any definite statement of cost hold good.

We are prepared to supply you with complete working drawings, specifications, and quantity surveys of materials, for any house you may desire, at an extremely low fee. In view of the fact that these instruments are the work of architects of high standing and long experience, the prices indicated in connection with the designs are merely nominal. Additional copies of the plans, specifications, and quantity surveys may be obtained at the following prices: Plans $1.25, specifications $1.25, quantity surveys 50 cents. Working drawings with bill of materials of fireplaces shown on pages 30 and 31 will be sent for $1.00 each.

We shall be glad to be of any help we can on points that are not clearly understood.

An attractive exterior and a cozy interior characterize this house. The living room, exposed on three sides, is light and airy. The cozy corner, formed by the fireplace and stairs, looks out upon the garden. There is a convenient coat closet off the living room near the front entrance. The stairs to the basement are close to the kitchen and have an entrance door at grade giving access to the basement from outside.

The kitchen is large enough for dining purposes, frequently convenient, and has a large porch and pantry.

The second floor is complete with two bedrooms and their closets, a linen closet, and a bath.

Size 15'0" × 28'0". This design and plan are the reverse of No. 42.