Part 6

Chapter 62,366 wordsPublic domain

Having decided on a garden, the question immediately arises as to the procedure to be followed to get the most out of it. Special attention has been given to this problem by experts throughout the country and specific recommendations are now available on the subject at state agricultural colleges. These cover varieties, planting dates, adequate area, fertilization, rotation of crops and storage. Typical recommendations along these lines are given here for the north-central and eastern states. Readers living elsewhere may wish to check them with the practices recommended by authorities in their home states.

_Vegetable Growing by Rule._--The most effective method of presenting the story of recommended vegetables, desirable varieties, seed required, average yields and other pertinent data is in tabular form, such as that used in Table I, which has been prepared for the aid of home vegetable gardeners by the New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, and which is based on years of study of the subject. Table II, prepared by the Michigan State College of Agriculture, shows the amount of seed that should be purchased to supply an adequate quantity and variety of important vegetables for a family of six persons.

Examination of the planting table will show that the setting of plants or roots is occasionally recommended instead of the use of seed. This is desirable in some cases to get quicker results and in other cases is essential if a crop is to be secured during a normal growing season. While it is possible for the grower to raise these plants, or sets, himself, usually more satisfactory results can be obtained through buying them from a capable plant grower. The growing of sets is a specialized business requiring conditions of heat, moisture, fertility and skill, frequently beyond the patience and capacity of the amateur. There are plant growers in nearly every neighborhood who will grow the needed plants at small cost. Arrangements should be made in advance for growing the varieties or strains that are wanted, and usually the grower can furnish his own seed for the plants if that seems desirable to him. One desiring to grow one's own plants from seed can secure full information from a practical grower or from state and county agricultural agencies.

TABLE I

PLANTING TABLE FOR VEGETABLES[1]

+----------------------+-------+-------+------------+ | | | | Distance | | | | | between | | | Seed | Depth | rows for | Name of | Variety | for |to sow |cultivation,| vegetable | | 100- | seed, | inches | | | row |inches | | | | | +------+-----+ | | | |Horse | Hand| -----------------+----------------------+-------+-------+------+-----+ Asparagus |Washington, Palmetto |1-yr.- |8-10 | 5 ft.|4 ft.| | |old |roots | | | | |roots | | | | Beans | | | | | | Green bush |Stringless Green Pod, |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 30 | 18 | |Bountiful | | | | | | | | | | | Yellow bush |Currie's Rust Proof, |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 30 | 18 | |Davis' White Wax | | | | | | | | | | | Pole green |Kentucky Wonder, |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 36 | 30 | |Old Homestead | | | | | Bush lima |Fordhook |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 30 | 30 | | | | | | | Pole lima |King of the Garden |1/2 pt.|1-1-1/2| 48 | 36 | Beets--early |Crosby's Egyptian |1 oz. | 1 | 28 | 15 | Late |Detroit Dark Red | | | | | Cabbage--early |Jersey Wakefield, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 30 | 30 | |Copenhagen Market | | | | | Cabbage--late |Danish Ball Head, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 36 | 30 | |Succession, | | | | | Cantaloupe |Early Knight, |1/2 oz.| 1 |54-60 | 40 | |Fordhook | | | | | Carrots |Chantenay, |1 oz. | 1/2| 30 | 15 | |Oxheart | | | | | Celery |Golden Self-blanching,|1 pkt. | 1/4| 36 | 30 | |Easy Blanching | | | | | Corn--early |Golden Bantam, |1/4 lb.| 1 | 36| 30| |Howling Mob | | | | | Corn--late |Golden Bantam, |1/4 lb.| 1 | 36| 30| |Evergreen | | | | | Cucumber |White Spine, |1/2 oz.|1/2-1 | 48-60| 48| |Davis Perfect | | | | | | | | | | | Eggplant |New York Improved, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 48| 48| |Black Beauty | | | | | Endive |Green Curled, Broad |1 pkt. | 1/2| 30| 18| |Leaved Batavian | | | | | Kale |Scotch Curled, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 30| 18| |Siberian (over winter)| | | | | Kohlrabi |White Vienna |1 pkt. | 1/2| 30| 15| Lettuce | | | | | | Spring and fall|Green-leaved Big Bos. |1 pkt. | 1/2| 18-20| 15| Summer | N. Y. Salamander |1 pkt. | 1/2| 18-20| 15| Romaine | G. R. Exp., Trianon |1 pkt. | 1/2| 18-20| 15| Okra |Perkins Long Pod |1 oz. | 1 | 36| 30| Onion sets |Yellow Strasburg, |1 qt. | 1 | 18| 14| |Japanese (Eberheser) | | | | | Onion seed |Yellow Globe Danvers, |1 oz. | 1/2| 18| 14| |Southport Globe | | | | | Parsnips |Hollow Crown |1/2 oz.| 1/2| 18| 15| | | | | | | Peas |Little Marvel, |1 pt. |1-1-1/2| 30| 30| |Laxtonian, Telephone | | | | | Peppers |Ruby King, Pimento |1 pkt. | 1/2| 36 | 30 | | | | | | | Potatoes |Irish Cob., Green Mts.|1/2 pk.|3-4 | 36 | 36 | Pumpkins |Cheese, Small Sugar |1 oz. | 1/2| 60 | 60 | | | | | | | Radish |Scarlet Globe, Icicle |1/2 oz.| 12 | 15 | 5 | | | | | | | Rhubarb |Victoria |Roots |5-6 | 48 | 48 | | | | | | | Spinach--spring |Bloomsdale, Savoy |1/2 oz.| 1/2| 20 | 15 | Spinach--summer |New Zealand |1 oz. | 1 | 48 | 36 | | | | | | | Spinach--fall |Va. Dis., Resist. |1/2 oz.| 1/2| 20 | 15 | |Savoy | | | | | Squash--summer |Gold. Sum. Crookneck, |1 oz. |1-1-1/2| 48 | 48 | |White Bush Scallop | | | | | Squash--winter |Boston Marrow, |1 oz. |1-1-1/2| 72 | 72 | |Warted Hubbard | | | | | Sweet potatoes |Yel. Jersey |Plants | -- | 36 | 36 | Swiss chard |Lucullus |1 oz. | 1/2| 30 | 30 | | | | | | | Tomatoes--early |Chalk's Early |Plants | 1/2| 48 | 36 | |Jewel, Bonny Best | | | | | Tomatoes--late |Matchless, Stone |Plants | 1/2| 48 | 36 | Turnips |Purple Top Strap. Leaf|1 pkt. | 1/2| 24 | 15 | Rutabagas |Golden Ball, |1 pkt. | 1/2| 24 | 15 | |Lg. Island Improved |1 pkt. | 1/2| 24 | 15 | -----------------+----------------------+-------+-------+------+-----+

+--------+------------+-------------+------- | | | | | | | |Average Distance|Time of | | Average | days between |planting| Time of | yield | from plants |seed | harvest | 100-foot | seed in row, |outdoors| | row | to inches | | | |harvest | | | | --------+--------+------------+-------------+------- 16 | -- |Spring- |15 2-lb. |2 yr. | |July 1 |bunches | | | | | | | | | 3 |Apr 15 |June 20 |2 bu. | 40-65 |July 15 |Sept. 15- | | | | Frost | | 3 |Apr. 15 |June 20 |2 bu. | 50-70 |July 15 |Sept. 15- |2-2-1/2 bu. | 95-100 | | Frost | | 10-30 |May 1-20|Aug. 15 |2-2-1/2 bu. | 95-100 | | | | 10 |May 1- |Aug. 1-Frost|2 bu. |110-120 |July | | | 36 |May 15 |Aug. 1-Frost|2 bu. |110-120 2-3 |Apr. 1 |July 15 |2-2/1/2 bu. | 45-60 |July 20 |Nov. 15 | | 18 |Apr. 15 |July-Sept. |45-55 heads |100-120 | | | | 18 |July 1 |Oct.-Nov. |45-55 heads |120-150 | | | | 48 hill |May 15 |Aug. 10 |6-8 fruits | 90-1l0 | | |per hill | 1-1-1/2 |Apr. 1 |Aug. 1 |2 bu. | 65-90 |July 1 |Nov. | | 6 |June 1 |Sept. 15 |200 stalks |120-150 | | | | 15 or 30|May 1 |July 12 |4 doz. ears | 60-75 hill | | | | 18 or 30|June 15 |Aug. 20- |4 doz. ears | 75-90 hill |July 1 | Frost | | 48 hill |May 15 |July 10 |200 cucumbers| 60-75 | |Aug. 20 |1-1/2 bu. | | | | pickles | 48|June 1 | Aug. 20- |125 fruits |140-160 | | Frost | | 56|Apr. 15 |June 15 |65 plants | 60-90 |July 15 |Oct.-Nov. | | 18|Apr. 1 |June 1 |60 bu. | 55-65 |Sept. 1 |Apr. | | 3-4|Apr. 15 |June 15 |2 bu. | 50-70 |Apr. 15-|Aug. 15-Oct.| | 14-18|June 1 |Oct. |70 head | 70-90 14-18|May 15 |June 1 |70 head | 70-90 14-18|Aug. 1 |July-Aug. |70 head | 70-90 10-15|May 15 |Aug. 10 |900-1000 pod | 90-140 1|Apr 1 |May 15 |140 bunches | 45-75 | | | | 1|Apr. 1 |Aug. 20 |1-1/2-2 bu. |110-130 | | | | 3-4|Apr. 1- |Sept.-Nov. |2 bu. |140-160 | May 15 | | | 2|Apr. 1- |June 10-July|2 bu. | 45-70 | 15 | | (in pods) | 18-20 |May 15 |Aug. 15- |5 bu. |125-150 | | Frost |(6 per plant)| 14 |Apr. 15 |July 1 |3 bu. | 90-120 48 |May 15 |Sept. 1- |75 pumpkins | 70- 90 | | Frost | | 1 |Apr. 15 |June 1 |100 bunches | 30-65 |Sept. 1 |Oct. 25 | | 48 |Mar.-Apr|May-Nov. |8-10 stalks | 1 yr. | | |plant | 2 |Mar. |May |3 bu. | 45 36 |Apr. 15 |June 15 |Cut all | 65-120 | | |summer | 2 |Aug. 15-|Oct.-Nov. |3 bu. | 50-60 |Sept. 15| | | 48 |May 1 |July 10 |136 squash | 60-70 | | | | 48 |June 1 |Oct. |75 squash |120-130 | | | | 18 |May 15 |Oct. 1-10 |3 bu. |140-150 6 |Apr. 15 |June 5- |Pull until | 50 | | Frost | frost | 36 |May 15 |July 10-Aug.|4 bu. |120-150 | | | | 36 |June 1 |Aug. l-Frost|4 bu. |150-170 2 |Apr. 1 |June 1 |2 bu. | 45-70 2 |Aug. 1 |Oct.-Nov. |2 bu. | 45-70 2 |Aug. 1 |Oct.-Nov. |2 bu. | 45-70 --------+--------+------------+-------------+-------

TABLE II

AMOUNT OF SEED TO PURCHASE FOR FAMILY OF SIX[2]

_Planning and Operating a Home Garden._--In planning the home vegetable garden there are a few essential points to be kept in mind. The time to plan the garden is in winter when adequate consideration can be given to the selection of those vegetables that the family likes best and can use in large amounts. Seeds required should be ordered early for the entire garden. By drawing the plan of the garden on paper and following it, the procedure is simplified and the most efficient results attained.

Vegetables should be planted in rows rather than in beds, and those maturing at about the same time should be grouped together to facilitate succession planting. After the early-maturing crops have been harvested, other crops can be sown on the same area, thus fully utilizing the land throughout the growing season. Perennial crops, including asparagus and rhubarb, should be kept by themselves.

A practical farmer wanting to express perfection in soil preparation is apt to say, "It is just like a garden." This implies good fertility, optimum moisture conditions and proper tilth. To attain these conditions in garden soil it is desirable to cover it with strawy manure some time previous to plowing, in order that rains may carry the soluble fertility elements into the surface inches of the soil. In the early spring a thorough job of plowing or spading should be done to reasonable depth, completely covering the surface straw or dead plants. Every two or three years lime should be applied after plowing and worked into the top soil at the rate of 1 pound of hydrated lime to every 25 square feet of soil.

_Fertilizing and Culture._--The fertility supplied through application of manure should be supplemented by the use of commercial fertilizer. This can be purchased in burlap bags from local supply agencies and should contain about 5 per cent nitrogen, 8 per cent phosphoric acid and 7 per cent potash. Moderate variations in analysis from 5-8-7, as above, are not important so long as the amounts of each element are well balanced. The fertilizer should be broadcast over the garden after plowing, at the rate of 1 pound to every 25 square feet and worked into the soil before planting. Poultry or sheep manure may be used as top dressing to alternate with commercial fertilizer. It should be borne in mind that such animal manures are richer in nitrogen than in other elements and if used to excess may stimulate leaf growth at the expense of yield and quality.

Frequent shallow cultivations are desirable. The ordinary wheel hoe will be found helpful in the cultivating procedure. It should be well understood that cultivation is essential to prevent weed growth and conserve moisture.

If watering or irrigating is necessary in dry weather, it should be thoroughly done. One soaking of the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches is far more effective than frequent light sprinklings. The latter may be more harmful than beneficial through reestablishing capillary movement, permitting the escape of subsoil moisture. Water should be applied under the same conditions that apply when rain falls--on cloudy days or after sunset to prevent "baking" or encrusting of the surface soil as well as to conserve the amount of water needed.

_Meeting the Insect Problem._--The sponsor of a garden in which diversified vegetables are grown must be prepared to meet the onslaught of equally diversified insect species. While it is true that insects are multiplying as to species and voraciousness, it is equally true that methods of control are becoming available to cope adequately with most of them. One unfamiliar with our insect infestations will be amazed to find that certain species apparently have had advance notice of his intentions and are sitting about the planted rows awaiting the appearance of the tender shoots.

One of the best methods of combating insects is to create ideal conditions for plant growth. Plants that are underfed through inadequate soil fertility or are weakened by other causes suffer severely from insect attack, while vigorous plants will come through with much less damage. It is advisable to insure rapid germination of seed through careful soil preparation, to seed at the proper time for a quick and vigorous start and to have sufficient available fertility to stimulate growth once the plants have started.

There are two distinct classes of insects, the division being based upon their feeding habits. The larger group, both in the size of the insects themselves and in the number of species, is the leaf-chewing group. These can be destroyed by the application of stomach poisons to the plants under attack. The other group consists of the sucking insects, which penetrate the veins carrying nourishment to the leaves and appropriate it for themselves. Such insects multiply with extreme rapidity, generally feed on the underside of the leaves and may cause complete wilting of the plant before their presence is suspected. In such cases a "contact" spray or dust must be used. This is based on the principle of causing the insect to "inhale" the material through breathing pores along its body. The insecticide must be composed of extremely fine particles or must be of such an oily nature that it will readily penetrate such pores. In addition to these, certain repellent materials are being developed which cause the insect to seek food where the disagreeable conditions do not prevail.

TABLE III

PRINCIPAL INSECTS AND REMEDIES[3]