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A LITERARY PILGRIMAGE

SEVENTH EDITION

* * * * * *

_BY DR. WOLFE_

Uniform with this volume

LITERARY SHRINES THE HAUNTS OF SOME FAMOUS AMERICAN AUTHORS

_Treating descriptively and reminiscently of the scenes amid which Hawthorne, Longfellow, Whittier, Emerson, and many other American authors lived and wrote_

223 pages. Illustrated with four photogravures. $1.25

A LITERARY PILGRIMAGE AND LITERARY SHRINES

Two volumes in a box, $2.50

* * * * * *

A LITERARY PILGRIMAGE AMONG THE HAUNTS OF FAMOUS BRITISH AUTHORS

by

THEODORE F. WOLFE M.D. PH.D.

Author of Literary Shrines etc.

J. B. Lippincott Company Philadelphia MDCCCXCVI

Copyright, 1895, By Theodore F. Wolfe.

Printed by J. B. Lippincott Company, Philadelphia, U.S.A.

PREFACE

The favor with which a few articles in the periodical press, similar to those herewith presented, have been received induces the hope that the present volume may prove acceptable. If some popular literary shrines which are inevitably included in the writer's personal itinerary are herein accorded but scant notice, it is for the reason that they have been already so oft described that portrayal of them is therefore purposely omitted from this account of a literary pilgrimage: even Stratford-on-Avon here for once escapes description. However, the initial paragraphs of these chapters lightly outline a series of literary rambles which the writer has found measurably complete and consecutive. The pilgrim is understood to make his start from London.

If these notes of his sojourns in the scenes hallowed by the presence of British authors or embalmed in their books shall prove pleasantly reminiscent to some who have fared to the same shrines, or helpfully suggestive to others who contemplate such pilgrimage, then

"not in vain He wore his sandal shoon and scallop-shell."

The writer is indebted to the publishers of the _Home Journal_ for permission to reproduce one or two articles which have appeared in that periodical.

T. F. W.

CONTENTS PAGE

LITERARY HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE.

_Haunt of Dickens--Steele--Pope--Keats--Baillie--Johnson--Hunt-- Akenside--Shelley--Hogarth--Addison--Richardson--Gay--Besant--Du Maurier--Coleridge, etc.--Grave of George Eliot_ 13

BY SOUTHWARK AND THAMES-SIDE TO CHELSEA.

_Chaucer--Shakespeare--Dickens--Walpole--Pepys--Eliot--Rossetti-- Carlyle--Hunt--Gay--Smollett--Kingsley--Herbert--Dorset-- Addison--Shaftesbury--Locke--Bolingbroke--Pope--Richardson, etc._ 24

THE SCENE OF GRAY'S ELEGY.

_The Country Church-Yard--Tomb of Gray--Stoke-Pogis Church-- Reverie and Reminiscence--Scenes of Milton--Waller--Porter-- Coke--Denham_ 39

DICKENSLAND: GAD'S HILL AND ABOUT.

_Chaucer's Pilgrims--Falstaff--Dickens's Abode--Study--Grounds-- Walks--Neighbors--Guests--Scenes of Tales--Cobham--Rochester-- Pip's Church-Yard--Satis House, etc._ 49

SOME HAUNTS OF BYRON.

_Birthplace--London Homes--Murray's Book-Store--Kensal Green-- Harrow--Byron's Tomb--His Diadem Hill--Abode of his Star of Annesley--Portraits--Mementos_ 62

THE HOME OF CHILDE HAROLD.

_Newstead--Byron's Apartments--Relics and Reminders--Ghosts-- Ruins--The Young Oak--Dog's Tomb--Devil's Wood--Irving-- Livingstone--Stanley--Joaquin Miller_ 80

WARWICKSHIRE: THE LOAMSHIRE OF GEORGE ELIOT.

_Miss Mulock--Butler--Somervile--Dyer--Rugby--Homes of George Eliot--Scenes of Tales--Cheverel--Shepperton--Milly's Grave-- Paddiford--Milby--Coventry, etc.--Characters--Incidents_ 91

YORKSHIRE SHRINES: DOTHEBOYS HALL AND ROKEBY.

_Village of Bowes--Dickens--Squeers's School--The Master and his Family--Haunt of Scott_ 106

STERNE'S SWEET RETIREMENT.

_Sutton--Crazy Castle--Yorick's Church--Parsonage--Where Tristram Shandy and the Sentimental Journey were written--Reminiscences-- Newburgh Hall--Where Sterne died--Sepulchre_ 111

HAWORTH AND THE BRONTËS.

_The Village--Black Bull Inn--Church--Vicarage--Memory-haunted Rooms--Brontë Tomb--Moors--Brontë Cascade--Wuthering Heights-- Humble Friends--Relic and Recollection_ 121

EARLY HAUNTS OF ROBERT COLLYER: EUGENE ARAM.

_Childhood Home--Ilkley Scenes, Friends, Smithy, Chapel--Bolton-- Associations--Wordsworth--Rogers--Eliot--Turner--Aram's Homes-- Schools--Place of the Murder--Gibbet--Probable Innocence_ 136

HOME OF SYDNEY SMITH.

_Heslington--Foston, Twelve Miles from a Lemon--Church-Rector's Head--Study--Room-of-all-work--Grounds--Guests--Universal Scratcher--Immortal Chariot--Reminiscences_ 148

NITHSDALE RAMBLES.

_Scott--Hogg--Wordsworth--Carlye's Birthplace--Homes--Grave-- Burns's Haunts--Tomb--Jeanie Deans--Old Mortality, etc.--Annie Laurie's Birthplace--Habitation--Poet-Lover--Descendants_ 161

A NIECE OF ROBERT BURNS.

_Her Burnsland Cottage--Reminiscences of Burns--Relics-- Portraits--Letters--Recitations--Account of his Death--Memories of his Home--Of Bonnie Jean--Other Heroines_ 181

HIGHLAND MARY: HER HOMES AND GRAVE.

_Birthplace--Personal Appearance--Relations to Burns--Abodes: Mauchline, Coilsfield, etc.--Scenes of Courtship and Parting-- Mementos--Tomb by the Clyde_ 194

BRONTË SCENES IN BRUSSELS.

_School--Class-Rooms--Dormitory--Garden--Scenes and Events of Villette and The Professor--M. Paul--Madame Beck--Memories of the Brontës--Confessional--Grave of Jessy Yorke_ 207

LEMAN'S SHRINES.

_Beloved of Littérateurs--Gibbon--D'Aubigné--Rousseau--Byron-- Shelley--Dickens, etc.--Scenes of Childe Harold--Nouvelle Heloïse--Prisoner of Chillon--Land of Byron_ 226

CHÂTEAUX OF FERNEY AND COPPET.

_Voltaire's Home, Church, Study, Garden, Relics--Literary Court of de Staël--Mementos--Famous Rooms, Guests--Schlegel--Shelley-- Constant--Byron--Davy, etc.--De Staël's Tomb_ 238

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Castle of Chillon _Frontispiece._

Stoke-Pogis Church and Church-Yard 45

Newstead Abbey 81

Home of Annie Laurie 177

LITERARY HAMPSTEAD AND HIGHGATE

_Haunt of Dickens--Steele--Pope--Keats--Baillie--Johnson--Hunt-- Akenside--Shelley--Hogarth--Addison--Richardson--Gay--Besant--Du Maurier--Coleridge, etc.--Grave of George Eliot._

The explorations which first brought renown to the immortal Pickwick were made among the uplands which border the valley of the Thames at the north of London: the illustrious creator of Pickwick loved to wander in the same region through the picturesque landscapes he made the scenes of many incidents of his fiction, and the literary prowler of to-day can hardly find a ramble more to his mind than that from the former home of Dickens or George Eliot by Regent's Park to Hampstead, and thence through the famous heath to Highgate. The way traverses storied ground and teems with historic associations, but these are, for us, lessened and subordinated by the appeal of memories of the famous authors who have loved and haunted this delightful region, and have imparted to it the tenderest charm. The acclivity of Hampstead has measurably resisted the encroachment of London, and has deflected the railroads with their disturbing tendencies, so that this old town probably retains more of its ancient character than any other of the near suburbs, and some of its quaint streets would scarcely be more quiet if they lay a hundred miles away from the metropolis. Off the highway by which we ascend the hill, we find many evidences of antiquity, old streets lined by rows of plain and sedate dwellings wearing an air of dignified sobriety which is not of this century, and which is in grateful contrast with the pert artificiality of the modern fabrics of the vicinage. Many old houses are draped with ivy or shrouded by trees of abundant foliage; some are shut in by depressing brick walls, over which float the perfumes of unseen flowers. A few of the older streets lie in perpetual crepuscule, being vaulted by gigantic elms and limes as opaque as arches of masonry.

[Sidenote: Baillie--Johnson--Kit-Kat Club]

[Sidenote: Keats]

Along the slope of Haverstock hill, where our ascent begins, we find the sometime homes of Percival, Stanfield, Rowland Hill, and the historian Palgrave. Near by is the cottage where dwelt Mrs. Barbauld, and the Roslyn House, where Sheridan, Pitt, Burke, and Fox were guests of Loughborough. Here, too, formerly stood the mansion where Steele entertained the poet of the "Dunciad," with Garth and other famed wits. On the hill-side a leafy lane leads out of High Street to the picturesque church of the parish, whose tower is a conspicuous landmark. Within this fane we find, against the wall on the right of the chancel, the beautiful marble bust recently erected by American admirers "To the Ever-living Memory" of the author of "Lamia" and "Hyperion." Here, too, is the plain memorial tablet of the poetess Joanna Baillie, who lived in an unpretentious mansion lately standing in the neighborhood, where she was visited by Wordsworth, Rogers, and others of potential genius. In the thickly tenanted church-yard she sleeps with her sister near the graves of Incledon, Erskine, and the historian Mackintosh. Below the church, on the westering slope, lies embowered Frognall, once the home of Gay, where Dr. Johnson lived and wrote "The Vanity of Human Wishes" in the house where the gifted Nichol now resides with the author of "Ships that Pass in the Night" for a neighbor and with the home of Besant in view from his study. Near the summit of Hampstead stands a sober old edifice which was of yore the Upper Flask tavern, where the famous Kit-Kat Club held its summer _séances_, when such luminous spirits as Walpole, Prior, Dorset, Pope, Congreve, Swift, Steele, and Addison assembled here in the low-panelled rooms which we may still see, or beneath the old trees of the garden, and interchanged sallies of wit and fancy over their cakes and ale. To this inn Lovelace brought the "Clarissa Harlowe" of Richardson's famed romance, and here Steevens, the scholiast of Shakespeare, lived and died. Flask Walk, which leads out of the high street among old houses and greeneries, brings us to the shadowy Well Walk, with its overarching trees and with many living memories masoned into its dead walls. Here we see the little remnant of the once famous well which for a time made Hampstead a resort for the fashionable and the suffering. Among the fancied invalids who once dwelt in Well Walk was the spouse of Dr. Johnson. Akenside, Arbuthnot, and Mrs. Barbauld (editor of "Richardson's Correspondence") have sometime lived in this same little street; here the mother of Tennyson died, and here the sweet boy-poet Keats lodged and wrote "Endymion." At a house still to be seen in the vicinage he was for two years the guest of his friend Brown; here he wrote "Hyperion," "St. Agnes," and the "Ode to a Nightingale," and here he wasted in mortal illness, being at last removed to Rome only to die. Under the limes of Well Walk is a spot especially hallowed by the memory of Keats: it was the object and limit of his walks in his later months, and here was placed a seat (which until lately was preserved and bore his name), where he sat for hours at a time beneath the whispering boughs, gazing, often through tears, upon the enchanting vista of wave-like woods and fields, the valley with its gleaming lakelets, and the farther slopes crowned by the spires of Highgate, which rise out of banks of foliage. The view is no less beautiful than when Keats's vision lingered lovingly upon it, although we must go into the open fields to behold it now.

[Sidenote: The Heath]

[Sidenote: Leigh Hunt--Jack Straw's Castle]

If we bestir ourselves to reach the summit of the heath before the accustomed pall shall have settled down upon the great city, the exertion will be abundantly rewarded by the prospect that greets us as we overlook the abodes of eight millions of souls. Such a view is possible nowhere else on earth: outspread before us lies the vast metropolis with its seven thousand miles of streets, while without and beyond this aggregation of houses we behold an expanse of landscape diversified with vale and hill, copse and field, village and park, extending for leagues in every direction and embracing portions of seven of England's populous shires. We see the great dome of St. Paul's and the tall towers of Westminster rising out of the mass of myriad roofs; the Crystal Palace glinting amid its green terraces; across the city we behold the verdured slopes of Surrey and, farther away, the higher hills of Sussex; our eyes follow the course of the Thames from imperial Windsor, whose battlements are misty in the distance of the western horizon, to its mouth at Gravesend; yonder at the right is Harrow, set on its classic hill-top, with its ancient church by which the boy Byron idled and dreamed; northward we see pretty Barnet, where "Oliver Twist" met the "Dodger;" nearer is romantic Highgate, and all around us lie the green slopes and leafy recesses of the heath. Through these strode the murderer Sykes of Dickens's tale, and from the higher parts of this common we may trace the way of his aimless flight from the pursuing eyes of Nancy,--through Islington and Highgate to Hendon and Hatfield, and thence to the place of his miserable death at Rotherhithe. There are hours of delightful strolling amid the mazes of the picturesque heath, with its alternations of heathered hills and flower-decked dales, its pretty pools, its braes of brambled gorse and pine, its tangle of countless paths. One will not wonder that it has been the resort of _littérateurs_ from the time of Dryden till now: Pope, Goldsmith, and Johnson loved to ramble here; Hunt, Dickens, Collins, and Thackeray were familiar with these shady paths; Nichol, Besant, James, and Du Maurier are now to be seen among the walkers on the heath. A worn path bearing to the right conducts to the turf-carpeted vale where, in a little cottage whose site is now occupied by the inn, Leigh Hunt lived for some years. Such guests as Lamb, Hazlitt, Coleridge, Hood, and Cornwall came to this humble home, and here Shelley met Keats, the "Adonais" of his elegy. Not far away lie the ponds of Pickwick's unwearied researches; and in another corner of the common we find an ancient tavern bowered with shrubbery, in whose garden Addison and Steele oft sipped their ale of a summer evening, and where is still cherished a portion of a tree planted by Hogarth. On an elevation of the heath stands "Jack Straw's Castle," believed to mark the place of encampment of that rebel chieftain with his mob of peasantry. It is a curious old structure, with wainscoted walls, and was especially favored by Dickens, who often dined here with Maclise and Forster and read to them his MSS. or counselled with them concerning his plots. Out on the heath near by was found the corpse of Sadlier the speculator, who, after bankrupting thousands of confiding dupes, committed suicide here; his career suggested to Dickens the Merdle and his complaint of "Little Dorrit." Among the embowered dwellings beyond West Heath we find that in which Chatham was self-immured, the cottage in which Mrs. Coventry Patmore--the Angel in the House--died, the place where Crabbe sojourned with Hoare. This vicinage has been the delight of artists from the time of Gainsborough, and is still a favorite sketching ground: here lived Collins and Blake, and Constable dwelt not far away. The author of "Trilby," who has recently taken front rank in the literary profession, long had home and studio in a picturesque ivy-grown brick mansion of many angles and turrets, in a quiet street upon the other side of the hill; here among his treasures of art he commenced a third book soon to be published.

[Sidenote: The Spaniard's]

The highway which leads north from Jack Straw's affords an exhilarating walk, with a superb prospect upon either hand, and brings us to the historic Spaniard's Inn, a pleasant wayside resort decked with vines and flowers, where pedestrians stop for refreshments. Dickens oft came to this place, and here we see the shady garden, with its tables and seats, where Mrs. Bardell held with her cronies the mild revel which was interrupted by the arrest of the widow for the costs in Bardell _vs._ Pickwick. The quiet of this ancient inn was disturbed one night by a fierce band of Gordon rioters, who rushed up the paths of the heath on their way to Mansfield's house, and stopped here to drink or destroy the contents of the inn-cellars,--an occurrence which is graphically described by Dickens in the looting of the Maypole Inn of Willet, in "Barnaby Rudge." Next to the Spaniard's once lived Erskine, and among the grand beeches of Caen Wood we see the house of Mansfield, where the daughter of Mary Montagu was mistress, and where illustrious guests like Pope, Southey, and Coleridge were entertained.

[Sidenote: Home of Coleridge]

A farther walk through the noble wood brings us to the delightful suburb of Highgate, where we now vainly seek the Arundel House where the great Bacon died and find only the site of the simple cottage where Marvell, the "British Aristides," lived and wrote. The last home of the author of "Ancient Mariner" is in a row of pleasant houses on a shady street called The Grove, a little way from the high street, which was in Coleridge's time the great Northern coach-road from London. The house is a neat brick structure of two stories, in which we may see the room where the poet lodged and where he breathed out his melancholy life. A pretty little patch of turf is in front of the dwelling, a larger garden, beloved by the poet, is at the back, and the trees which border the foot-walk were planted in his lifetime. To this cosy refuge he came to reside with his friends the Gilmans; here he was visited by Hunt, who once lodged in the next street, Lamb, Hazlitt, Wordsworth, Shelley, De Quincey, and others of like fame; and here, for nineteen years, "afflicted with manifold infirmities," he continued the struggle against a baneful habit, which ended only with his life. His grave was made not far away, in a portion of the church-yard which has since been overbuilt by a school, among whose crypt-like under-arches we find the tomb of stone, lying in pathetic and perpetual twilight, where the poet sleeps well without the lethean drug which ruined his life. On this hill lived "Copperfield" with Dora, and at its foot is the stone where Whittington sat and heard the bells recall him to London.

[Sidenote: Grave of George Eliot]

On the slope toward the city is the most beautiful of the London cemeteries, with a wealth of verdure and bloom. Within its hallowed shades lie the ashes of many whose memories are more fragrant than the flowers that deck their graves. In a beautiful spot which was beloved by the sweet singer in life we find the tomb of Parepa Rosa, tended by loving hands; not far away, among the mourning cypresses, lie Lyndhurst and the great Faraday. A plain tombstone erected by Dickens marks the sepulchre of his parents, and by it lies his daughter Dora, her gravestone bearing now, besides her simple epitaph prepared by her father, the name of the novelist himself and the names of two of his sons. Here, too, is the grave of Rossetti's young wife, whence his famous poems were exhumed. Among the many tombs of the enclosure, the one to which most pilgrims come is that of the immortal author of "Romola." On a verdant slope we find the spot where, upon a cold and stormy day which tested the affection of her friends, the mortal part of George Eliot was covered with flowers and lovingly laid beside the husband of her youth. Wreaths of flowers conceal the mound, and out of it rises a monument of gray granite bearing her name and years and the lines

"Of those immortal dead who live again In minds made better by their presence."

From the terraces above her bed we look over the busy metropolis, astir with its myriad pulses of life and passion, while its rumble and din sound in our ears in a murmurous monotone. As we linger amid the lengthening shadows until the sunset glory fades out of the sky above the heath and the lights of London gleam mistily through the smoke, we rejoice that we find the tomb of George Eliot, not in the aisles of Westminster, where some would have laid her, but in this open place, where the winds sigh a requiem through the swaying boughs, the birds swirl and twitter in the free azure above, and the silent stars nightly watch over her grave.

BY SOUTHWARK AND THAMES-SIDE TO CHELSEA

_Chaucer--Shakespeare--Dickens--Walpole--Pepys--Eliot--Rossetti-- Carlyle--Hunt--Gay--Smollett--Kingsley--Herbert--Dorset--Addison-- Shaftesbury--Locke--Bolingbroke--Pope--Richardson, etc._

[Sidenote: The Tabard--White Hart--Marshalsea]